Hi, a hobby welder here. I’ve used stick and MAG (18% CO2) and welded 2-8 mm stuff mostly. I have some projects of thicker material for the next summer and I’ve tried to watch videos of welding such material. I try to figure out if I should use stick or of I should buy a larger welder. Current welder is ewm Picomig 180 Pulse. Yeah, quite expensive for a hobbyist. It has stick,TIG and MIG/MAG. The projects need probably 15-20 mm thick material. (roughly 3/4”). I just watched the video. I have no expertise here to estimate the actual weld, but it looks very good to me. This is not meant to critize this video or the video maker. I am just quite confused of why several videos contain this. I have questions here and it doesn’t concern only this video but quite a many in youtube. People in welding videos often talk about how to make the process efficient and how to reduce the time spent. Why nobody ever show how much time and effort it takes to remove those backing plates. I’m quite sure that backing plate was very well welded to the two work parts when the root pass was done. I understand if the original request had a backing plate, then OK, but … Why the gap between the work parts has to be so big? Wouldn’t something smaller (2-3 mm ~ 0,1” max) be enough? So no backing plate would be needed or isn’t that possible? I understand the backing plate was used to tack the work pieces together, but isn’t possible to use a different form of backing plate? If the backing plate is for a heat sink why not use lower power for the smaller root pass without backing plate? Just thinking that the actual welding takes 5-10 minutes and grinding the backing plate off takes what … 20 minutes? Happy welding!
Looks great. Maybe over 1/8" on your cap? Also, a 3/8 test plate only certifies you to 3/4 plate. 1" gets you unlimited thickness. That's why she was working 1". She probably already has certificate for 3/8.Next step is nr232 .072 fluxcore.
I have the ESAB emp235 and when I select flux cored it shows only option dcen and shows to switch the ground and hot lead. Can I ignore that and just use the dual shield…
Nice and pretty uniform, well explained. I made it in similar way, before more than 26 years, when Dual Shield wires were not under ESAB, and I can see that the weldability is almost the same. With DS 7100 Ultra , I am very interested to see can you repeat this using 0,052” dia. , and not 0,045”, and which welding parameters should be applied in such a case.
I want to see the xray and bend of this weld. i have to wonder how much work experience this guy has. last unlimited thickness test i did no weave allowed and 1/16 wire. passed xray and bend.
Good video but I’m questioning how much experience he has by the way he’s setting up the plates and not using the plasma to help make the bevel. Why not use the quarter backing strip to make your gap so you know it’s even not just guessing ?
Great video...a lot of people can weld physically but don't really understand the reading of the puddle and how to respond to what they're reading while welding....anybody can weave side to side but don't understand why they're using that process
I see that backing weld taught often, but in 30 years of working on heavy equipment, 12:10 I have never had an instance to use that weld. Maybe sort of similar welding on bulldozer mold boards, but thats about it. Also, many people will find most any type of MIG easier to run downhill..
Dual shield is a flux core soo downhill wouldn’t be recommended. However this type of welding is kinda niche. Stick tig and mig/spray are usually the go to. I believe dual shield is used on some shipyards and they do get a backing strap sometimes ceramic backing straps.
@f.e.oeeorch581 I welded 10,000 pounds of 3/8" thick 3"×4" box tubing and 1/8" sheet metal on a 230 excavator a while back using dual shield, at all angles, out of position, upside down, you name it. I can weld it up or down, but to me, every type of mig I have ever ran does better downhill. You can definitely run it hotter and burn it in better. I have even seen Bob Moffitt say this more than once on this channel, that downhill mig being bad is a myth, and it is just as strong, and he had said that he would argue that its stronger. I have a Forney 270 that will spray, but I have never tried it. I have just never wanted to buy a bottle of gas just to experiment with, although I do plan to try it someday. I guess it's all in how you learn. My dad's best friend when I was growing up owned a pretty big welding shop, and I just learned from those guys. They must have taught me something because I cut timber for 29 years and decided about a year ago that I was going to quit and do something else. Just so happens I had just built my shop on the land I bought beside where I live. It isn't massive, but it has a high ceiling of 18 feet and 14×14' doors and I can house 2 road tractors or 2 big pieces of heavy equipment, say D6 Cat dozer size or some bigger. And now people come and pay me good money to weld. I do heavy-duty mechanics and heavy-duty tires like 800 pound 35.5, 28 ply log skidder tires. But welding has been primarily what I have done for hire.
@@f.e.oeeorch581 I work in a shipyard and we never use a backing strap. Either we use ceramic tape or we just bridge the gap with a weld in the open and fill it up then back gouge it and weld that up too.
What kind of HAMMER do you use to loosen a 3/4" nut. You used an adjustable wrench to hammer slag. I'm just wondering what HAMMER you use to loosen nuts. Maybe if you are trying to TEACH someone something you should use a tool for what it was DESIGNED for. Stupid me, just a thought.
@@Welddotcom Temper bead welding is when a subsequent beads' heat is used to refine the course grain region of the previous beads HAZ, the bit right adjacent to the weld metal typically. Those course grains are not very tough, and tend to be the hardest in the weld, i.e. right adjacent to the last cap pass and in the base metal. When you run a bead up the middle like she did that tempers the hardness of the base metal course grains and if you are close enough to the edge of the prior weld but not on the base metal itself it will recrystallise the course grains taking them over 875 Deg C or so but only for a very short time, not long enough for significant growth = a finer tougher microstructure, So grain refinement and a tempering effect. You could argue that the edge [toe] of the center weld is too far away from the prior beads toe where it meets the weld metal to do the very best for it, but it is close enough to temper the hardness in that region in any case.
The reason why the weld metal does not harden as much as the base metal [and thereby suffer from the same hardness problem as what the base metal does] is that the weld metal has a lot less carbon in it, making it somewhat immune [but not completely] to the effects that affect the base metal. For normal Carbon, Silicon, Manganese steels the toughness is what is improved by temper bead welding, for alloy steels it is resistance to hydrogen cracking AND toughness that is improved, sometimes it is possible to drop PWHT if temper bead welding is done correctly, that is how effective it can be - it heat treats the weld as you go. BUT bead placement and heat imputs need to be controlled to achieve a proper result, a result that you cannot see and cannot test for nondestructively, so be careful relying on it unless those controls are in place following a method that has been tried and tested for the particular set of welding parameters you are using.
I really like your channel man, I’m just wondering when you started sounding so much like Bob Ross. It seems like you’ve strayed away from the funnier stuff, and are going a more “Mr. Roger’s” route. It’s still great stuff, I’m just wondering why the change? I’ve been watching you for years, and will continue to. Like I said, just wondering. You’re great either way.
THANK YOU SIR. I appreciate the tips! This caught me off guard though, I wasn’t expecting to be mentioned in a video 😂
Glad you got to see it!!!
If Blippi had a welding channel 😂
Loved the humor and instruction
Hi, a hobby welder here.
I’ve used stick and MAG (18% CO2) and welded 2-8 mm stuff mostly. I have some projects of thicker material for the next summer and I’ve tried to watch videos of welding such material.
I try to figure out if I should use stick or of I should buy a larger welder.
Current welder is ewm Picomig 180 Pulse. Yeah, quite expensive for a hobbyist. It has stick,TIG and MIG/MAG.
The projects need probably 15-20 mm thick material. (roughly 3/4”).
I just watched the video. I have no expertise here to estimate the actual weld, but it looks very good to me.
This is not meant to critize this video or the video maker. I am just quite confused of why several videos contain this.
I have questions here and it doesn’t concern only this video but quite a many in youtube. People in welding videos often talk about how to make the process efficient and how to reduce the time spent.
Why nobody ever show how much time and effort it takes to remove those backing plates. I’m quite sure that backing plate was very well welded to the two work parts when the root pass was done.
I understand if the original request had a backing plate, then OK, but …
Why the gap between the work parts has to be so big?
Wouldn’t something smaller (2-3 mm ~ 0,1” max) be enough?
So no backing plate would be needed or isn’t that possible?
I understand the backing plate was used to tack the work pieces together, but isn’t possible to use a different form of backing plate?
If the backing plate is for a heat sink why not use lower power for the smaller root pass without backing plate?
Just thinking that the actual welding takes 5-10 minutes and grinding the backing plate off takes what … 20 minutes?
Happy welding!
Glad to see you putting that metric any size hammer to good use!
lol you know it
BRO! The Bob Ross thumbnail had me losing it.......
Haha 😂
Wow Mr Rogers of welding!!!!!!
❤❤
When you recycled the metal to make new coupons, could you cut the metal with the plasma cutter on angel to create your bevel to save a step?
Looks great. Maybe over 1/8" on your cap? Also, a 3/8 test plate only certifies you to 3/4 plate. 1" gets you unlimited thickness. That's why she was working 1". She probably already has certificate for 3/8.Next step is nr232 .072 fluxcore.
I have the ESAB emp235 and when I select flux cored it shows only option dcen and shows to switch the ground and hot lead. Can I ignore that and just use the dual shield…
If it were flat wpuld you go around 450 and 25 volts or so?
Love your UA-cam channel , I’ve learned a ton from watching your instructional videos. Oorah!
Glad you like them!
Thank you!
Nice and pretty uniform, well explained.
I made it in similar way, before more than 26 years, when Dual Shield wires were not under ESAB, and I can see that the weldability is almost the same.
With DS 7100 Ultra , I am very interested to see can you repeat this using 0,052” dia. , and not 0,045”, and which welding parameters should be applied in such a case.
We should defiantly run some bigger wire and try it out!
I want to see the xray and bend of this weld. i have to wonder how much work experience this guy has. last unlimited thickness test i did no weave allowed and 1/16 wire. passed xray and bend.
Good video but I’m questioning how much experience he has by the way he’s setting up the plates and not using the plasma to help make the bevel. Why not use the quarter backing strip to make your gap so you know it’s even not just guessing ?
Great video...a lot of people can weld physically but don't really understand the reading of the puddle and how to respond to what they're reading while welding....anybody can weave side to side but don't understand why they're using that process
Great video. How about best budget true color helmet ?
What’s a true color helmet? Lol
the Navy and shipbuilding in general doesn’t allow any weaves because of higher rates of slag pockets
Was the hammer you used Standard Or metric
Left handed
Every tool has a hammer side..
Indeed it does!
I did a wood floor that had to be nailed down. I used whatever was closest to me to knock it in
I have that same adjustable hammer
Hehehe
What do u put the gas on when welding fluxcore
@@Cova3242 25-40ish CFH depending on your stickout and if there is a breeze where you are welding
What was your landing ?
Zero
You don’t need one for a fillet/groove test with backing bar. at least according to the CWB you don’t
My boss wants me to pass this test in one pass
I’m troubled with the Crescent Hammer.. everything else looks good
Why are you troubled?
@@austinhargett5792 I googled Crescent Slag Hammer… zero results 😂
Run a D1.1 3G and 4G with NR232 .072" Weld tube hasn't made a detailed video of the wire yet.
I will put in on the list to knock out.
@@Welddotcom the 1" 3G test not the 3/8"
@@Welddotcom There are no videos on UA-cam covering the 1". Even hard to find on google.
I see that backing weld taught often, but in 30 years of working on heavy equipment, 12:10 I have never had an instance to use that weld. Maybe sort of similar welding on bulldozer mold boards, but thats about it. Also, many people will find most any type of MIG easier to run downhill..
This is more for structural iron working than heavy equipment repair
@austinhargett5792 true I guess.... because the backing I am welding is usually already broken...lol.
Dual shield is a flux core soo downhill wouldn’t be recommended. However this type of welding is kinda niche. Stick tig and mig/spray are usually the go to. I believe dual shield is used on some shipyards and they do get a backing strap sometimes ceramic backing straps.
@f.e.oeeorch581 I welded 10,000 pounds of 3/8" thick 3"×4" box tubing and 1/8" sheet metal on a 230 excavator a while back using dual shield, at all angles, out of position, upside down, you name it. I can weld it up or down, but to me, every type of mig I have ever ran does better downhill. You can definitely run it hotter and burn it in better. I have even seen Bob Moffitt say this more than once on this channel, that downhill mig being bad is a myth, and it is just as strong, and he had said that he would argue that its stronger. I have a Forney 270 that will spray, but I have never tried it. I have just never wanted to buy a bottle of gas just to experiment with, although I do plan to try it someday. I guess it's all in how you learn. My dad's best friend when I was growing up owned a pretty big welding shop, and I just learned from those guys. They must have taught me something because I cut timber for 29 years and decided about a year ago that I was going to quit and do something else. Just so happens I had just built my shop on the land I bought beside where I live. It isn't massive, but it has a high ceiling of 18 feet and 14×14' doors and I can house 2 road tractors or 2 big pieces of heavy equipment, say D6 Cat dozer size or some bigger. And now people come and pay me good money to weld. I do heavy-duty mechanics and heavy-duty tires like 800 pound 35.5, 28 ply log skidder tires. But welding has been primarily what I have done for hire.
@@f.e.oeeorch581 I work in a shipyard and we never use a backing strap. Either we use ceramic tape or we just bridge the gap with a weld in the open and fill it up then back gouge it and weld that up too.
Can you do a nr 232 video?
What’s that?! Lol
@@austinhargett5792 self shielding flux core welding just runs so differently than regular flux core welding
Cool video 😎 👍
Thanks Darrell
Nice video but the whole BOB ROSS thing is a little creepy dude!
See you in your dreams
The hammer you used was the sae/
indeed
Love "nothing can live in hell" lol, made me laugh a little to hard
😂😂
What kind of HAMMER do you use to loosen a 3/4" nut. You used an adjustable wrench to hammer slag. I'm just wondering what HAMMER you use to loosen nuts.
Maybe if you are trying to TEACH someone something you should use a tool for what it was DESIGNED for.
Stupid me, just a thought.
WHAT?
@@clawabidingcitizenYou CAN NOT be so STUPED as to ask "WHAT?".
I'm picking up a weird Bob Ross vibe off Austin here.
Goooood goooood
The bead up the middle is Temper Bead Welding. :)
not filmier, please explain
@@Welddotcom Temper bead welding is when a subsequent beads' heat is used to refine the course grain region of the previous beads HAZ, the bit right adjacent to the weld metal typically. Those course grains are not very tough, and tend to be the hardest in the weld, i.e. right adjacent to the last cap pass and in the base metal. When you run a bead up the middle like she did that tempers the hardness of the base metal course grains and if you are close enough to the edge of the prior weld but not on the base metal itself it will recrystallise the course grains taking them over 875 Deg C or so but only for a very short time, not long enough for significant growth = a finer tougher microstructure, So grain refinement and a tempering effect. You could argue that the edge [toe] of the center weld is too far away from the prior beads toe where it meets the weld metal to do the very best for it, but it is close enough to temper the hardness in that region in any case.
The reason why the weld metal does not harden as much as the base metal [and thereby suffer from the same hardness problem as what the base metal does] is that the weld metal has a lot less carbon in it, making it somewhat immune [but not completely] to the effects that affect the base metal. For normal Carbon, Silicon, Manganese steels the toughness is what is improved by temper bead welding, for alloy steels it is resistance to hydrogen cracking AND toughness that is improved, sometimes it is possible to drop PWHT if temper bead welding is done correctly, that is how effective it can be - it heat treats the weld as you go. BUT bead placement and heat imputs need to be controlled to achieve a proper result, a result that you cannot see and cannot test for nondestructively, so be careful relying on it unless those controls are in place following a method that has been tried and tested for the particular set of welding parameters you are using.
Happy little boops ...
This guy has serious anger issues 😂
I really like your channel man, I’m just wondering when you started sounding so much like Bob Ross. It seems like you’ve strayed away from the funnier stuff, and are going a more “Mr. Roger’s” route.
It’s still great stuff, I’m just wondering why the change? I’ve been watching you for years, and will continue to. Like I said, just wondering.
You’re great either way.
why do you make me listen to your music?
To much talk really and to little welding..... Like the ESAB though.......
Why not just cut the bevel with the plasma. So you only have to cut the once