THAT SONG IN THE END IS ALSO USED IN CARMILLA SEASON 3 AND MY HEART MADE A LITTLE JUMP. So, now that's off my chest, love this video and how not rushed this feels, much attention to detail. Looking forward to part 2!
If the prints are pla, you can also smooth by enclosing it in a container with some acetone. Or instead of the regular primer use a high build automotive primer. Might save some labor.
try a vibrating foam knife, or a heated wire cutter to get cleaner cuts on the foam and plastic mold pieces. also its tends to be quicker and less mess
really nice job on mold (a mold). I think that it will be rather a training sword than just a props. It will be really solid. (I was checking your channel few days ago to be sure I didn't missed some video :-) )
@@LindyDesignLab I can't see any advantage of sharp edges. Motion picture camera can't see it and you will need some scabbard. Also being careful while taking shots slows process. I can imagine that carbon fiber with resin can produce painful injury, because of its surface. Maybe just flat shiny edge (dull angle) can do the trick. If it should be sharp, maybe you can embed steel into it (or box cutter blades if you want it crazy sharp :-D)
Thanks for your videos and reply. Do you offer any type of consulting? I have a current carbon fiber/Kevlar product however I am currently skinning it and it’s been proven difficult as maybe 1 out of 5 that the carbon fiber doesn’t lift up once epoxy is applied. I want to start making a mold but it is a very small part, I was thinking of getting a 3d printed mold but don’t know where to start
If I send you a part can you make a mold for me? I haven’t tried this method but I haven’t had lunch with gelcoat. I keep trying but keep failing. I need a mold that I will be able to vacuum bag carbon fiber parts from. If this is something you would consider let me know, I’m willing to pay you
Why would you even make rigid mold like that when you can do brush on silicone mold and support it with fiberglass shell if need be? I do wonder how are you going to cast a rigid material to the rigid mold. In short... not gonna happen, unless the is going to be a huge amount of postprocess involved.
Only had the actual sword parts, not the 3D model, and wanted to take a stab at mold making. But in general, yeah, although sanding print lines out of a female mold can be a challenge.
Somebody said somewhere, that fiberglass shrink during curing. Aren't you afraid of that, or you just don't care since it's not an issue here, or it's complete bollocks?
Great tut...
You have the patience of a Saint and the skill of a Craftsman...
👍🏼
I'm not into propmaking, but I always feel like I have learned some useful techniques for building stuff by watching these videos. Thanks! :)
THAT SONG IN THE END IS ALSO USED IN CARMILLA SEASON 3 AND MY HEART MADE A LITTLE JUMP.
So, now that's off my chest, love this video and how not rushed this feels, much attention to detail. Looking forward to part 2!
one option to bulk out the mold for more rigidity is to add a felt layer over the fiberglass
Any thick cloth will do - I've used material from am old pair of jeans.
Very Nice Job
If the prints are pla, you can also smooth by enclosing it in a container with some acetone. Or instead of the regular primer use a high build automotive primer. Might save some labor.
try a vibrating foam knife, or a heated wire cutter to get cleaner cuts on the foam and plastic mold pieces. also its tends to be quicker and less mess
best way seen so far
Every video you're using a new technique and every video you seem so competent in it. O_o
Cool video! I can't wait to see how it comes out.
It's an interesting project. Thanks again for the designs.
the music at the end is epic.
You seem to know what you’re doing. That mold looks good 👍🏻 Great Video
and if you wax you molds be for casting the carbon fiber glass it will make it alot easy to release the mold from the part or the part from the mold
Yup, couple layers of wax then PVA. No draft angle on some parts still makes for a challenging release.
really nice job on mold (a mold). I think that it will be rather a training sword than just a props. It will be really solid. (I was checking your channel few days ago to be sure I didn't missed some video :-) )
Thinking of actually sharpening the edges...
@@LindyDesignLab I can't see any advantage of sharp edges. Motion picture camera can't see it and you will need some scabbard. Also being careful while taking shots slows process. I can imagine that carbon fiber with resin can produce painful injury, because of its surface. Maybe just flat shiny edge (dull angle) can do the trick. If it should be sharp, maybe you can embed steel into it (or box cutter blades if you want it crazy sharp :-D)
Genius!
Can I use epoxi resin instead of the black surface coat? 10:25
The surface coat is an epoxy resin that is dyed black and thickened with something that makes it sand well (glass microspheres would be my guess).
I've found that clay a bit easier to work with if you hit it with a heat gun for a few seconds.
Thanks for the tutorial. May I ask why you didn't just skip the flanges by just printing plug halves to be hotglued to corrugated plastic sheet?
That's a great idea. In this case the parts were sent to me already printed in full 3d.
What is that black flat thingy at 7:50 ?
Corrugated plastic.
Where did you get the black surface coat?
Composite Envisions
What kind off black epoxy cost did you use?
Premium resin tech high temp surface coat
Thanks for your videos and reply. Do you offer any type of consulting? I have a current carbon fiber/Kevlar product however I am currently skinning it and it’s been proven difficult as maybe 1 out of 5 that the carbon fiber doesn’t lift up once epoxy is applied. I want to start making a mold but it is a very small part, I was thinking of getting a 3d printed mold but don’t know where to start
my pla moulds become warped by the resin reacting with it
To fast of a resin? Exotherm can get super hot if done thicker than recommended or left in pot too long.
@@LindyDesignLab Yea i will try add a very thin layer first and let it harden before adding more layers with fiberglass.
What would you charge to make a mold? Do you even do commission work?
What material is the 3D Print made from as I didn't see it listed? (PLA, PETG, etc.) Great video by the way.
Believe it was PLA.
If I send you a part can you make a mold for me? I haven’t tried this method but I haven’t had lunch with gelcoat. I keep trying but keep failing. I need a mold that I will be able to vacuum bag carbon fiber parts from. If this is something you would consider let me know, I’m willing to pay you
Is that a special type of chopped strand mat? I was always under the impression that CSM was incompatible with epoxy resin.
The binder doesn't dissolve in epoxy, so it is more difficult to wet out, but it doesn't inhibit the cure.
Can you share a link for the clay you used in making the fiberglass mold?
This is the kind I used, chavant plasteline amzn.to/2LKJtR3.
Did you 3d print the sword or did the 3d print come as part of the kit?
The parts used to make the mold were printed by CP 3D Printing and sent to me as a kit.
Thank you! Newbie question to sort my thoughts: would it be possible to use that mould to get a carbon fibre replica?
ua-cam.com/video/--5WYf9l9lk/v-deo.html
Great video! What type of paint and clear coat did you use when finishing the master?
It was just what I had on hand, gloss rattle cans of black spray paint and automotive enamel.
the glue uses moisture to cure your susposed to dampen it
if you was to use auto body filler puddy it work alot more better than what you used
Why would you even make rigid mold like that when you can do brush on silicone mold and support it with fiberglass shell if need be? I do wonder how are you going to cast a rigid material to the rigid mold. In short... not gonna happen, unless the is going to be a huge amount of postprocess involved.
Can't you directly print the mold instead of the master model?
by doing so you would skip the whole first step.
besides, amazing job you did there!
Only had the actual sword parts, not the 3D model, and wanted to take a stab at mold making. But in general, yeah, although sanding print lines out of a female mold can be a challenge.
Somebody said somewhere, that fiberglass shrink during curing. Aren't you afraid of that, or you just don't care since it's not an issue here, or it's complete bollocks?
You show laying every repetitive strip, but don’t show one clip of vacuum bag? :(
gorila glue works better when used on damp surface
“Flatted out”, “Wetted out”...you’re kind of weird... no wonder I love your channel so much! XD
Hi- can you help me setup a production line for carbon fibre swords ?
You are Amazing.... If only you would Marry me... Oh well, perhaps in another life... Enjoy your day....