Apologies if I missed it Morgan, but as a saw I'd use for INTERIOR trim work I'd really like to know how well the dust control is: either into the bag or with a vac hose. I use my 12" outdoors but this one needs to have good dust control for interior work, so that's something I have to research further...
@@erickholman6815 I have never tried it on the 10”, I have used it on the 7-1/4. They are basically on par with every other saw I’ve personally used. With the bags they catch very little, the vacuum is better but nothing fantastic. I feel like most companies don’t put much thought into dust control On Miter Saws. They just throw ports on them and it sucks what it sucks 😂
I do for framing, I feel it’s easier to just cut that right at the stack than man handling the boards onto a miter saw and cutting it (especially long boards) Many times I just do the same even with 2x4’s and use my little M12 saw. I primarily use my Miter Saws for trim so the amount I can cut Vertical is more important than on the flat. 8/10 times the 7-1/4 is all I need.
Good comparison. I replaced a compact Dewalt (DCS361?) with the 7 1/4" Milwaukee and think it's a far better saw. I did have the 10" Milwaukee and wound up selling it - I don't remember why all that well, other than the dust collection was very poor. As you say, it is sort of an apples to oranges comparison. The 7 1/4" saw is so easy to carry around, up and down stairs, with minimal risk of damaging trim and walls. 😊 And I agree, if you can afford it, having a 7 1/4" and a 10" saw is very convenient.
Appreciate your thoughts. Yeah, the 7-1/4 is my preferred saw for traveling around with. Lighter, easy to handle, and takes up less room in my truck. Plus for just general cutting (2x4’s, etc) the 7-1/4” blades are much cheaper. For the most part unless I’m doing hours of cutting…I typically cut my stuff flat anyways, and the shadow line makes cutting angles much easier on the flat since you can see exactly where and how your miter will cut on the edge of your board. It makes me not mind cutting on the bevel as much. I only will pull out this 10” for bigger framing jobs or bulk work where I can leave it somewhere set up for a few days. I will likely leave it set up in my garage all the time when not using on jobs. Had they not had the 10” on the deal, I would probably not have bought it, but I sold one of the 8AH batteries and the charger for $200, so I got the saw and another 8AH battery for $330.. I didn’t think that was a bad deal.
When I think of the advantage of a battery operated saw, the 7 1/4 makes the most sense. Highly portable. Without that advantage, it makes more sense to me to get a corded 12” and take a Honda Genny. But, I’m not a general contractor.
I use my 7-1/4 a lot more. (I do more smaller jobs) I only take the 10” with me if I will be somewhere for an extended time… or it’s bigger material. I normally have power, so the battery capability isn’t really a must have on my bigger saw…but I already carry the batteries for my tools with me and I’ve been surprised how long they last on these saws. So it’s all just less stuff to have to make room for in my truck. (Extension cords, etc) But if you are doing a several day/week job… yeah the bigger corded would be the way to go
Nice review of actual usability differences observed in the field. You sold me on dual bevel and shadow line (vs Dewalt) and 7 1/4 is fine for me. I'm ok with cutting moldings flat. I rarely need to cut larger stock, but can flip the board (shadow line will help) or use circular saw which is usually sufficient accuracy for larger boards. Besides easier usability of 10" it seems the biggest limitation without a workaround is thickness, but I never cut anything that thick. I guess 10" may be preferred for decking and rough work.
Yeah I use the 7-1/4 way more than the 10"... and my buddy has the Dewalt 7-1/4... the shadow line on it is nowhere near as good. I just wish the 7-1/4 wasn't so expensive.. Glad I could help 👍👍
@@MORGANSMaintenance Yeah $450 for bare tool is steep. Combo with 8.0 battery is better deal at $515, but doesn't help those with plenty of batteries. I could actually use the battery.
@@bretb8799 I always look for the deals with other stuff too. That’s the main reason I bought the 10”. I got two 8.0’s with it for free basically when I caught it on sale. Even if you don’t need them, you can sell them pretty easily on marketplace. I kept mine too though.
@@gasparroy I’ll have to relook at it, but I know on at least one or both the are bolts that hold down the plate with the angles. You a move it so the detents change. I’ll screenshot your question and if I think about it, I will show it in a live.
Thanks for the good review. I'm going with the 10-in, 2:00 a.m. and I was looking to buy a new double bevel cordless miter saw 😅... Clicking on Amazon right now.. I have a 7 1/4 inch DeWalt and it only bevels one way which isn't good. And my 12-in DeWalt is heavy and corded.
The double bevel feature is definitely worth it in my opinion. The shadow line on the Milwaukee is much better than the Dewalt also. A guy I work on the same jobs with has the Dewalt 7-1/4 and I’ve used it quite a bit. I really like the 10” Milwaukee. It’s done everything I need it to. It’s a better feature packed saw than the 7-1/4, just a little heavier. I sold my Ridgid 12” miter saw for the same reason. Too big, too heavy, and the 10” does everything I do.
@@DixieNormous1 these are my first saws with the shadow line… I wouldn’t buy a saw without it now. It’s real nice when cutting bevels and miters to be able to see exactly what is going to be cut on the board.
I rarely use dust collection so it hasn’t been something I’ve paid attention to much. I have never used a miter saw that has had good dust collection though.
@@MORGANSMaintenance I use the 7 1/4 all the time and with a vacuum the dust collection is top tier. Did a whole job with MDF trim and the dust was minimal didn’t even need a mask.
@Rando88_ I use it more than the 10 myself. I typically am either cutting outside or in an unfinished job site. If I’m cutting a lot outside in someone’s yard, I will usually put a tarp beneath my say and then funnel that into a trash can at the end. I honestly don’t think I have hooked a vacuum up to either of these yet. 😂
@@MORGANSMaintenance I’m mostly an interior trim carpenter so it’s 90% of what I do. I don’t find it to be very accurate either. It’s on sale all the time at depot and I just want them to clear out the stock so they can finally update it
Very helpful to know that the 7.25" slider can cut (vertical) 3.5" left and 2.75" right, and 2 x 8 cross cut. To go larger would require the 10". And with the 10", the issue would be slider or not slider. The minor factor for the 7.25" would be lack of a depth stop. On separate note, I like the motor attached to the rails for slider. Just because that was the way the old Hitachi ones were. c10fs c10fsh c10fsb
Yeah this 10” is the first saw where the rails have been where they are. So far I have really liked both saws. Also just FYI, I now know that the 10” has a similar issue as you step up to 5-1/4 Baseboard. It cuts it vertical and left, but the housing hits on the right leaving you a little short just like the 7-1/4 does with the 3-1/2.
The dust collection on the 10 inch is horrendous, even with a dust extractor attached. The dust collection port is far from the blade 10 inch. But on the smaller 7 1/4 saw and larger inch it is very close. Reaching behind to bevel it is awkward and clumsy. The saw is also heavy and cumbersome. Will probably downgrade to the 7 1/4 because I hate the 10 inch.
I prefer the 7-1/4 if it will do what I need it too.. occasionally I just need a bigger saw. I normally don’t need dust collection and haven’t even used it on the 10” yet.. good to know what to expect 👍 On the 7-1/4, Swapping back and for from the left bevel and 0 is nice, you can just leave the knob loose and go back and forth…but going to the right you have to pull a pin every time. I actually prefer the bevel on the 10” but haven’t used it that much yet either. Appreciate your thoughts… might help someone in their decision 👍
@@dinmk I ended up selling my only 12” (305mm) saw because I never really needed it enough to lug it around with what I do. (It was a Ridgid Corded) Appreciate you sharing 👍
@@MORGANSMaintenance yes sir,Milwaukee dropped the ball not having the trenching system as you do not then have the option of the saw cutting door frame heads etc which is a common operation for a lot of site woodworkers,this is part of the reason the 10” version is more frequently seen on sites .
It will cut it straight, it will cut the 45 one direction but not the other. It hits the motor housing in the same way I show on the 7-1/4 I just installed some last week.
@@nickthegazerofsouls it should be able to. Like I said the 10” will do it except for one miter hits the motor housing leaving about 1/2” of the board uncut… so I think the 12 should
@@MORGANSMaintenance thanks again for the reply! But just to double check, are you talking about 3 1/4 baseboard like you used in the video? Because I'm curious about 5 1/4 baseboard
@@nickthegazerofsouls I used the 3-1/4 on my 7-1/4 saw… the 5-1/4 on the 10” saw, does the same thing that the 3-1/4 does on my 7-1/4 saw. You can cut it straight and one side miter, but the motor housing hits the board on your right miters.
The 10” yes… the 7-1/4”, no…. You have the same issue with the motor housing as I do with the trim, except it doesn’t matter if it’s a miter or not because of how far a 4x4 sticks out from the fence. You have to cut and flip to finish. Hope that helps 👍
That light on the wall behind you causes some serious video quality issues. The white background logo is on at the TV set may be too bright as well and gives the unnecessary "theme park" vibe. I think that you may need some better camera. Something that can record better in different light settings. And probably some studio light equipment and accessories. When it comes to close-ups the phone you're using is OK, but for wide shots you may need to upgrade. I wish my mitre saws had a shadow line. 10' Kapex has double laser that is ok. 12" Makita has a single movable laser that is not so good. As for now for bigger (>10") saws, I prefer corded. I plan to buy some cordless smaller Makita, but it's not on the top of my shopping list. To be frank anything smaller than 10" is more DYI and "emergency" usage. Unless you do a lot of small material cuts. And to be even "frankier" you need at least 6 mitre saws. One 10" or 12' for cutting steel. One cordless very light and simple (without slide function) 6 1/2" for small, detailed cuts; used mostly where you can cut with anything else (angle grinder, oscillating tool, jigsaw), but you need that cut quality only the mitre saw gives. One cordless 6 1/2" with slides for repeated and SAFE cutting if all kind of flooring materials. You can have one job site table saw, bit I like all 10 of my fingers. And I prefer mitre saw for cross cuts and a plunge saw for rip cuts. One cordless 7 1/4" or better 7 1/2" for most of the normal, everyday cuts. One corded or cordless 10" for skirt boards. If it's precise enough you can cut bevels horizontally, so it can be used for 6" boards. One corded 12" for heavy duty applications.
Thanks for the honest feedback 👍 I’ve been looking at other camera for quality but also to hook my Microphone up not using the iPhone plug-in…. It said it was connected during this video, but I don’t believe it was. I am not a fan of using tables saws for cuts I typically do on a Miter Saw either… or for sheet goods. (Prefer the track saw for safety & accuracy) I really only use a table saw to get things small to medium boards to the dimension I want. I agree that you ideally need multiple size saws… especially as a traveling contractor that does multiple tasks.
@@MORGANSMaintenance From video to video your subscribers numbers are constantly growing. So to not to stay behind the other youtubers you need to upgrade. You may think of some second hand DLSR. You need to face the reality - you've become a youtuber. Moreover, excusez le mot, an influencer. Yep, travelling is a key word. Anyone using a mitre saw in a workshop would need only two. One for metal and on 12".
@@Stefan_Kawalec I have started watching Facebook Marketplace for cameras… I have no idea what I’m really looking for is the problem 😂. I really just need to do more research and learn about camera settings:filming like I have most other tools/jobs in my life… but it’s well out of my field of expertise.
@@MORGANSMaintenance I have absolutely no idea what rig should be bought for this kind of venture. I think that some "how to be a youtuber" tutorials should help.
I do have one now, but my phone port sometimes doesn’t connect well and there is no way to know until after I’ve filmed. The tools pay for themselves. It takes me awhile to make $80 on UA-cam 😂 Appreciate the advice 👍
Thanks! Bought the 7 1/4 for the farm so I’m mostly cutting 2x4-2x6s. I think I made the right decision
That would be my “go to” for that.
Lighter, smaller, and cheaper blades
Thank you for making this video! Cut capacities in the real world are very different than what is advertised.
That’s very true, and you might can cut the amount they say on certain cuts, but not on others 👍
Apologies if I missed it Morgan, but as a saw I'd use for INTERIOR trim work I'd really like to know how well the dust control is: either into the bag or with a vac hose. I use my 12" outdoors but this one needs to have good dust control for interior work, so that's something I have to research further...
@@erickholman6815 I have never tried it on the 10”, I have used it on the 7-1/4. They are basically on par with every other saw I’ve personally used. With the bags they catch very little, the vacuum is better but nothing fantastic.
I feel like most companies don’t put much thought into dust control
On Miter Saws. They just throw ports on them and it sucks what it sucks 😂
Two very nice saws with great features. Thanks for show casing them! 👍👍
You are welcome 👍👍
Thank you for making this video. It was really informative on what my next miter saw will be.
@@singletrackflow glad I could help 👍👍
For me I tend towards my circular saw for anything bigger than 2x8.
I do for framing, I feel it’s easier to just cut that right at the stack than man handling the boards onto a miter saw and cutting it (especially long boards) Many times I just do the same even with 2x4’s and use my little M12 saw.
I primarily use my Miter Saws for trim so the amount I can cut Vertical is more important than on the flat.
8/10 times the 7-1/4 is all I need.
Good comparison. I replaced a compact Dewalt (DCS361?) with the 7 1/4" Milwaukee and think it's a far better saw. I did have the 10" Milwaukee and wound up selling it - I don't remember why all that well, other than the dust collection was very poor. As you say, it is sort of an apples to oranges comparison. The 7 1/4" saw is so easy to carry around, up and down stairs, with minimal risk of damaging trim and walls. 😊 And I agree, if you can afford it, having a 7 1/4" and a 10" saw is very convenient.
Appreciate your thoughts.
Yeah, the 7-1/4 is my preferred saw for traveling around with. Lighter, easy to handle, and takes up less room in my truck. Plus for just general cutting (2x4’s, etc) the 7-1/4” blades are much cheaper.
For the most part unless I’m doing hours of cutting…I typically cut my stuff flat anyways, and the shadow line makes cutting angles much easier on the flat since you can see exactly where and how your miter will cut on the edge of your board. It makes me not mind cutting on the bevel as much.
I only will pull out this 10” for bigger framing jobs or bulk work where I can leave it somewhere set up for a few days. I will likely leave it set up in my garage all the time when not using on jobs.
Had they not had the 10” on the deal, I would probably not have bought it, but I sold one of the 8AH batteries and the charger for $200, so I got the saw and another 8AH battery for $330.. I didn’t think that was a bad deal.
When I think of the advantage of a battery operated saw, the 7 1/4 makes the most sense. Highly portable. Without that advantage, it makes more sense to me to get a corded 12” and take a Honda Genny. But, I’m not a general contractor.
I use my 7-1/4 a lot more. (I do more smaller jobs)
I only take the 10” with me if I will be somewhere for an extended time… or it’s bigger material.
I normally have power, so the battery capability isn’t really a must have on my bigger saw…but I already carry the batteries for my tools with me and I’ve been surprised how long they last on these saws. So it’s all just less stuff to have to make room for in my truck. (Extension cords, etc)
But if you are doing a several day/week job… yeah the bigger corded would be the way to go
Thank you for the video. Very Helpful!
You are welcome… appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment 👍
Nice review of actual usability differences observed in the field. You sold me on dual bevel and shadow line (vs Dewalt) and 7 1/4 is fine for me. I'm ok with cutting moldings flat. I rarely need to cut larger stock, but can flip the board (shadow line will help) or use circular saw which is usually sufficient accuracy for larger boards. Besides easier usability of 10" it seems the biggest limitation without a workaround is thickness, but I never cut anything that thick. I guess 10" may be preferred for decking and rough work.
Yeah I use the 7-1/4 way more than the 10"... and my buddy has the Dewalt 7-1/4... the shadow line on it is nowhere near as good.
I just wish the 7-1/4 wasn't so expensive..
Glad I could help 👍👍
@@MORGANSMaintenance Yeah $450 for bare tool is steep. Combo with 8.0 battery is better deal at $515, but doesn't help those with plenty of batteries. I could actually use the battery.
@@bretb8799 I always look for the deals with other stuff too. That’s the main reason I bought the 10”. I got two 8.0’s with it for free basically when I caught it on sale.
Even if you don’t need them, you can sell them pretty easily on marketplace. I kept mine too though.
My 7 1/4 doesn’t cut a good 45’ mitre. How to adjust it?
@@gasparroy I’ll have to relook at it, but I know on at least one or both the are bolts that hold down the plate with the angles. You a move it so the detents change.
I’ll screenshot your question and if I think about it, I will show it in a live.
Very nice! I appreciate the focused comparison
👍 Thanks my friend!
Thanks for the video. Good stuff really helped me out.
You are welcome 👍👍
Thanks for the good review. I'm going with the 10-in, 2:00 a.m. and I was looking to buy a new double bevel cordless miter saw 😅... Clicking on Amazon right now.. I have a 7 1/4 inch DeWalt and it only bevels one way which isn't good. And my 12-in DeWalt is heavy and corded.
The double bevel feature is definitely worth it in my opinion. The shadow line on the Milwaukee is much better than the Dewalt also. A guy I work on the same jobs with has the Dewalt 7-1/4 and I’ve used it quite a bit.
I really like the 10” Milwaukee. It’s done everything I need it to. It’s a better feature packed saw than the 7-1/4, just a little heavier.
I sold my Ridgid 12” miter saw for the same reason. Too big, too heavy, and the 10” does everything I do.
@@MORGANSMaintenance I agree, most of my tools now are Makita. Their 10-in saw was 13 lb heavier ,$175 more &a laser that doesn't work quite right.
@@DixieNormous1 these are my first saws with the shadow line… I wouldn’t buy a saw without it now.
It’s real nice when cutting bevels and miters to be able to see exactly what is going to be cut on the board.
@@MORGANSMaintenance That's what I was thinking. The lasers never did work really well...
@@DixieNormous1Any update on the 10”? Did you like the saw?
Thanks for making this comparison video.
You are welcome my friend 👍
Great review brother 👏 thank you
Appreciate that 👍👍
would do anything for them to give the 10" the better dust collectoin and more powerful moter...would be my daily
I rarely use dust collection so it hasn’t been something I’ve paid attention to much. I have never used a miter saw that has had good dust collection though.
@@MORGANSMaintenance I use the 7 1/4 all the time and with a vacuum the dust collection is top tier. Did a whole job with MDF trim and the dust was minimal didn’t even need a mask.
@Rando88_ I use it more than the 10 myself. I typically am either cutting outside or in an unfinished job site. If I’m cutting a lot outside in someone’s yard, I will usually put a tarp beneath my say and then funnel that into a trash can at the end.
I honestly don’t think I have hooked a vacuum up to either of these yet. 😂
@@MORGANSMaintenance I’m mostly an interior trim carpenter so it’s 90% of what I do. I don’t find it to be very accurate either. It’s on sale all the time at depot and I just want them to clear out the stock so they can finally update it
Thank you!
You are welcome 👍👍
Very helpful to know that the 7.25" slider can cut (vertical) 3.5" left and 2.75" right, and 2 x 8 cross cut. To go larger would require the 10". And with the 10", the issue would be slider or not slider.
The minor factor for the 7.25" would be lack of a depth stop.
On separate note, I like the motor attached to the rails for slider. Just because that was the way the old Hitachi ones were. c10fs c10fsh c10fsb
Yeah this 10” is the first saw where the rails have been where they are. So far I have really liked both saws.
Also just FYI, I now know that the 10” has a similar issue as you step up to 5-1/4 Baseboard. It cuts it vertical and left, but the housing hits on the right leaving you a little short just like the 7-1/4 does with the 3-1/2.
Can it bevel cut a 2x10?
It says you can cut up to a 2x12 on a cross cut, so yes on the 10” saw you can.
can the 10'' cut a 2x8 at a 45 degree angle in one go?
Yes it can, the 7-1/4 cannot, but the 10” can.
Hope that helps… sorry for the late response, I’ve had no power/internet 👍
@@MORGANSMaintenance no worries thanks for the response!!!
The dust collection on the 10 inch is horrendous, even with a dust extractor attached. The dust collection port is far from the blade 10 inch. But on the smaller 7 1/4 saw and larger inch it is very close. Reaching behind to bevel it is awkward and clumsy. The saw is also heavy and cumbersome. Will probably downgrade to the 7 1/4 because I hate the 10 inch.
I prefer the 7-1/4 if it will do what I need it too.. occasionally I just need a bigger saw. I normally don’t need dust collection and haven’t even used it on the 10” yet.. good to know what to expect 👍
On the 7-1/4, Swapping back and for from the left bevel and 0 is nice, you can just leave the knob loose and go back and forth…but going to the right you have to pull a pin every time. I actually prefer the bevel on the 10” but haven’t used it that much yet either.
Appreciate your thoughts… might help someone in their decision 👍
Wouldn't bother with the 305mm unreliable mine stopped working after 3 years common fault with electronics.
@@dinmk I ended up selling my only 12” (305mm) saw because I never really needed it enough to lug it around with what I do. (It was a Ridgid Corded)
Appreciate you sharing 👍
Biggest fault with the 7 1/4 is that it does not have a trenching system .
👍.. you talking about setting the blade depth?
@@MORGANSMaintenance yes sir,Milwaukee dropped the ball not having the trenching system as you do not then have the option of the saw cutting door frame heads etc which is a common operation for a lot of site woodworkers,this is part of the reason the 10” version is more frequently seen on sites .
@@katluke 👍
@@katluke Someone modded their 7 1/4, looks like a pretty simple thing to add. ua-cam.com/video/oQaiR6L7_TQ/v-deo.html
Anyone know if the 10" is big enough to cut 5 1/4" baseboard standing up?
It will cut it straight, it will cut the 45 one direction but not the other. It hits the motor housing in the same way I show on the 7-1/4
I just installed some last week.
@@MORGANSMaintenance thanks for the reply! Do you think the 12" version would be big enough to cut 5 1/4 baseboard standing up?
@@nickthegazerofsouls it should be able to. Like I said the 10” will do it except for one miter hits the motor housing leaving about 1/2” of the board uncut… so I think the 12 should
@@MORGANSMaintenance thanks again for the reply! But just to double check, are you talking about 3 1/4 baseboard like you used in the video? Because I'm curious about 5 1/4 baseboard
@@nickthegazerofsouls I used the 3-1/4 on my 7-1/4 saw… the 5-1/4 on the 10” saw, does the same thing that the 3-1/4 does on my 7-1/4 saw. You can cut it straight and one side miter, but the motor housing hits the board on your right miters.
👍
Appreciate it my friend 👍👍
😎⚒️😎⚒️😎
Appreciate it buddy 👍👍
@@MORGANSMaintenance 💪💪💪
Does it cut a 4x4?
The 10” yes… the 7-1/4”, no…. You have the same issue with the motor housing as I do with the trim, except it doesn’t matter if it’s a miter or not because of how far a 4x4 sticks out from the fence.
You have to cut and flip to finish.
Hope that helps 👍
That light on the wall behind you causes some serious video quality issues. The white background logo is on at the TV set may be too bright as well and gives the unnecessary "theme park" vibe.
I think that you may need some better camera. Something that can record better in different light settings. And probably some studio light equipment and accessories. When it comes to close-ups the phone you're using is OK, but for wide shots you may need to upgrade.
I wish my mitre saws had a shadow line. 10' Kapex has double laser that is ok. 12" Makita has a single movable laser that is not so good. As for now for bigger (>10") saws, I prefer corded. I plan to buy some cordless smaller Makita, but it's not on the top of my shopping list.
To be frank anything smaller than 10" is more DYI and "emergency" usage. Unless you do a lot of small material cuts.
And to be even "frankier" you need at least 6 mitre saws.
One 10" or 12' for cutting steel.
One cordless very light and simple (without slide function) 6 1/2" for small, detailed cuts; used mostly where you can cut with anything else (angle grinder, oscillating tool, jigsaw), but you need that cut quality only the mitre saw gives.
One cordless 6 1/2" with slides for repeated and SAFE cutting if all kind of flooring materials. You can have one job site table saw, bit I like all 10 of my fingers. And I prefer mitre saw for cross cuts and a plunge saw for rip cuts.
One cordless 7 1/4" or better 7 1/2" for most of the normal, everyday cuts.
One corded or cordless 10" for skirt boards. If it's precise enough you can cut bevels horizontally, so it can be used for 6" boards.
One corded 12" for heavy duty applications.
Thanks for the honest feedback 👍
I’ve been looking at other camera for quality but also to hook my Microphone up not using the iPhone plug-in…. It said it was connected during this video, but I don’t believe it was.
I am not a fan of using tables saws for cuts I typically do on a Miter Saw either… or for sheet goods. (Prefer the track saw for safety & accuracy) I really only use a table saw to get things small to medium boards to the dimension I want.
I agree that you ideally need multiple size saws… especially as a traveling contractor that does multiple tasks.
@@MORGANSMaintenance From video to video your subscribers numbers are constantly growing. So to not to stay behind the other youtubers you need to upgrade. You may think of some second hand DLSR. You need to face the reality - you've become a youtuber. Moreover, excusez le mot, an influencer.
Yep, travelling is a key word. Anyone using a mitre saw in a workshop would need only two. One for metal and on 12".
@@Stefan_Kawalec I have started watching Facebook Marketplace for cameras… I have no idea what I’m really looking for is the problem 😂.
I really just need to do more research and learn about camera settings:filming like I have most other tools/jobs in my life… but it’s well out of my field of expertise.
@@MORGANSMaintenance I have absolutely no idea what rig should be bought for this kind of venture. I think that some "how to be a youtuber" tutorials should help.
Quit your whining. It was a Great Review
All this money you spend on all these tools but cannot get $80 wireless microphone
I do have one now, but my phone port sometimes doesn’t connect well and there is no way to know until after I’ve filmed.
The tools pay for themselves. It takes me awhile to make $80 on UA-cam 😂
Appreciate the advice 👍