I also keep 1 of the PRV plugs. Be very careful with it though and run the floor soft as it can build pressure in the floor very easily. I’ve had a couple instances - 1 was just sand in the PRV and have it continually bled off. Not the end of the world but annoying. Another the internal rod broke so couldn’t keep air in the floor. This cap allowed getting through the day to replace the valve. It’s also smaller if you don’t want to carry a spare PRV. But again - be cautious about floor pressure, especially for I-bean boats!
Tear-Aid Type A is not recommended for PVC or vinyl, while Type B is specifically designed for these materials. Type A can be used on most other materials, including canvas, nylon, rubber, plastic, aluminum, stainless steel, and more. Type B is durable, flexible, airtight, and watertight, and contains a special adhesive that's necessary for repairing vinyl and PVC because the oils in these materials can cause other adhesives to lose their bond.
After running some tests we found that Type A works great on PVC rafts. Both Type A and Type B work on most raft materials and in general Type A is better for most rafts.
Zack, if you’re still checking this: is there a point in trip length when you would bring a full repair kit (glue, patches, etc.)? Week-long trip? Grand Canyon? Or are you comfortable at this point relying on Tear Aid to get you through if something happens on day 1 of a long trip?
We use a length of PVV pipe and put rolled-up Tear Aid inside it. Could also stow the tube in a ziplok, but Tear Aid will adhere on wet fabric (I swear; I've got a big field repair on the floor that's starting its 3rd season without replacing).
Dry suits, rain jackets, & even my backpack once. There‘s better stuff for each application but this seems about as good for a do everything. About the same for Aquaseal
@@steveharris39 thanks for the response! I just purchased a 2002 model with the nrs fishing frame. It’s in great shape for its age but it is my first raft. I’m trying to get my bases covered before I start really using it, in case of a worst case scenario. I’m definitely gonna give all my zippers a good cleaning before it now!!Greetings from Brevard nc!!
@@steveharris39 I’ve searched a lot on these older super pumas and haven’t had much luck. Like I said, this one is a 2002 model, it has a middle zipper on the floor that I haven’t seen from my research. Anyway, any more advice would be much appreciated,!! Thanks again
@@johnhoyle1647 Yeah, it could be a big problem if the old zippers have oxidized (rusted). I found a teenie wire brush at True Value; use it to patiently buff off the corrosion. Pay special attention to the first two inches below the zipper pull; usually if you can get it started, it'll keep unzipping. I've used my channel locks to grab the zipper-pull. White silicone lubricant may help, also. If all else fails, ask Aire to retrofit the zipper ($$)
What are you storing the kit in? Do you bring frame tools? If you were running a commercial trip with multiple boats, does every boat carry this same kit?
Good questions. We're storing this in a smaller ammo can. We have separate tools for oar/stove repair and a spare oar towner in a different regular sized ammo can. We only bring one of each kit for a full multi-day commercial trip.
Thanks. I would love to see an extended video of the full trip gear, including how it’s rigged + transported for a multi boat - multi day commercial trip.
I have mine in a Pelican 1400. I keep frame tools in the repair kit but the spare oar tower/lock are in the strap bag. Not answering from a commercial perspective but I require each boat that joins my permits to have their own repair kit, including recent glue specific to their boat. I like that everyone can move to a buy tear aid periodically (I worry about adhesive deteriorating) instead of annually for glue.
I'll try and get to that. It's pretty easy. Use the valve tool to take the floor valve off. Be sure not to loose the part inside the floor. Clean it. Use the tool to put it back on.
@@GearGarageTV I believe my NRS floor valve is designed to leak after 2.5 or 3 psi is achieved so as to protect the floor from poping. However now it seems to leek constantly. Is this common? Does removing it and cleaning it work? My boat is now 15+ years old. It's in great shape. If I'm going to take the time to take the existing valve out should I just replace it with a new one?
Awesome video. I have a personal question and decided to ask because you seem like you’ve been immersed in the rafting industry for a while. I’m looking to buy my first new raft, have pretty much narrowed it down to an Aire puma /super puma or a hyside 12 max. I’m wondering what you would personally recommend. I’m primarily looking to r2-4 east coast rivers and creeks of Virginia, West Va and North Carolina. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
And keeping with the theme of the video, patching an aire in the field takes 5 minutes. Unzip the boat, wipe of the inner bladder around the breach and slap the tear aide on. Then after you get hone you can sew up the outer chamber.
I also keep 1 of the PRV plugs. Be very careful with it though and run the floor soft as it can build pressure in the floor very easily. I’ve had a couple instances - 1 was just sand in the PRV and have it continually bled off. Not the end of the world but annoying. Another the internal rod broke so couldn’t keep air in the floor. This cap allowed getting through the day to replace the valve. It’s also smaller if you don’t want to carry a spare PRV. But again - be cautious about floor pressure, especially for I-bean boats!
Tear-Aid Type A is not recommended for PVC or vinyl, while Type B is specifically designed for these materials. Type A can be used on most other materials, including canvas, nylon, rubber, plastic, aluminum, stainless steel, and more. Type B is durable, flexible, airtight, and watertight, and contains a special adhesive that's necessary for repairing vinyl and PVC because the oils in these materials can cause other adhesives to lose their bond.
After running some tests we found that Type A works great on PVC rafts. Both Type A and Type B work on most raft materials and in general Type A is better for most rafts.
"...with your zest for life" lol!
Pretty much everything im seeing is 3"x12". Im thinking 2 rolls should be fine or dobyou think 3 would be necessary?
Wouldn't having an aire boat be the best ? You can unzip the tube and patch inside.
I bought type A for my Maravia - it was worthless. Type B works like a champ. We won’t talk about how I know this...
Good to know!
Thanks Greg, just got a roll of type b for my maravia.
Zack, if you’re still checking this: is there a point in trip length when you would bring a full repair kit (glue, patches, etc.)? Week-long trip? Grand Canyon? Or are you comfortable at this point relying on Tear Aid to get you through if something happens on day 1 of a long trip?
I'm comfortable with Tear-Aid for most boats. With hypalon I might bring glue and patches but with everything else it's definitely only Tear-Aid.
what size clear tube from uline did you buy?
2" by 6" and then cut it down to size
We use a length of PVV pipe and put rolled-up Tear Aid inside it. Could also stow the tube in a ziplok, but Tear Aid will adhere on wet fabric (I swear; I've got a big field repair on the floor that's starting its 3rd season without replacing).
Type B vinyl / PVC
Type A. Hypalon. And most everything else
So which one for Sotar rafts?
@@GearGarageTV Sotar are urethane. Use Type A.
@@BladePressure That's what I used to think after reading the Tear Aid boxes. SOTAR suggests using Type B but says both work.
Urethane and PVC rafts use the same glues, and so should use the same tear aid... type B.
@@jshortyh That makes a lot of sense. I've used Type A on urethane before and it works fine but it sounds like Type B is better.
Great video Zac. I have also used tear aide to repair tarps and tents. Great product
Yep it's nice for dry suits too
Dry suits, rain jackets, & even my backpack once. There‘s better stuff for each application but this seems about as good for a do everything. About the same for Aquaseal
I think SOTAR says only type B tear aid on their boats. Thanks Zach!
I'm pretty confident SOTAR is wrong on this
I tried Tear Aid on a dry suit gasket once, and it would not even stick. Not sure which type it was, but I've been skeptical since.
I've used Type A Tear Aid on dry suits quite a bit and it's always worked great
Awesome video!! I have an older super puma, could I not unzip the raft to access the inside of the tube to make a large repair?
Boat repair for AIRE rafts is a bit different
@John Hoyle Might try soapy water and a stiff bristle brush to clean "teeth" completely before unzipping.
@@steveharris39 thanks for the response! I just purchased a 2002 model with the nrs fishing frame. It’s in great shape for its age but it is my first raft. I’m trying to get my bases covered before I start really using it, in case of a worst case scenario. I’m definitely gonna give all my zippers a good cleaning before it now!!Greetings from Brevard nc!!
@@steveharris39 I’ve searched a lot on these older super pumas and haven’t had much luck. Like I said, this one is a 2002 model, it has a middle zipper on the floor that I haven’t seen from my research. Anyway, any more advice would be much appreciated,!! Thanks again
@@johnhoyle1647 Yeah, it could be a big problem if the old zippers have oxidized (rusted). I found a teenie wire brush at True Value; use it to patiently buff off the corrosion. Pay special attention to the first two inches below the zipper pull; usually if you can get it started, it'll keep unzipping. I've used my channel locks to grab the zipper-pull. White silicone lubricant may help, also. If all else fails, ask Aire to retrofit the zipper ($$)
What are you storing the kit in?
Do you bring frame tools?
If you were running a commercial trip with multiple boats, does every boat carry this same kit?
Good questions. We're storing this in a smaller ammo can. We have separate tools for oar/stove repair and a spare oar towner in a different regular sized ammo can. We only bring one of each kit for a full multi-day commercial trip.
Thanks. I would love to see an extended video of the full trip gear, including how it’s rigged + transported for a multi boat - multi day commercial trip.
@@harrywatsonpaddle Some day
I have mine in a Pelican 1400. I keep frame tools in the repair kit but the spare oar tower/lock are in the strap bag.
Not answering from a commercial perspective but I require each boat that joins my permits to have their own repair kit, including recent glue specific to their boat. I like that everyone can move to a buy tear aid periodically (I worry about adhesive deteriorating) instead of annually for glue.
Ive used a speedy stitcher to close large rips and then patched over the stitched together edges.
Great video! What do you think of 3M 300LSE Double Sided patches from one side glued to the patch of the same fabric as the boat?
I’ve never tried that
Can you do a vid on removing a nrs floor valve and either replacing it or cleaning it? Mine has started to leak.
I'll try and get to that. It's pretty easy. Use the valve tool to take the floor valve off. Be sure not to loose the part inside the floor. Clean it. Use the tool to put it back on.
@@GearGarageTV I believe my NRS floor valve is designed to leak after 2.5 or 3 psi is achieved so as to protect the floor from poping. However now it seems to leek constantly. Is this common? Does removing it and cleaning it work? My boat is now 15+ years old. It's in great shape. If I'm going to take the time to take the existing valve out should I just replace it with a new one?
@@blitzen74 You can clean the relief valve and that might help. If that doesn't help then replace it. Yes what you are describing is common.
Awesome video. I have a personal question and decided to ask because you seem like you’ve been immersed in the rafting industry for a while. I’m looking to buy my first new raft, have pretty much narrowed it down to an Aire puma /super puma or a hyside 12 max. I’m wondering what you would personally recommend. I’m primarily looking to r2-4 east coast rivers and creeks of Virginia, West Va and North Carolina. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Those are all awesome choices so you can't go wrong. I'd personally go with the AIRE because they are made in the U.S. and have a bombproof warranty.
Thanks for the advice and quick response!
Love my Maravia Spider (Wider) but definitely doesn’t roll like either the Aire/Hyside do.
And keeping with the theme of the video, patching an aire in the field takes 5 minutes. Unzip the boat, wipe of the inner bladder around the breach and slap the tear aide on. Then after you get hone you can sew up the outer chamber.
For temporary field repairs, carry acetone for a cleaning solvent. It’s a potent solvent and requires no gloves or respirator to use safely.
oh snap im the first like!
Thank you! I forgot to ask for likes and subscribes.