Im so glad so se that there are peps that still loves this old cards. It warms my nerdy heart. Thank you for the great video and keep up the great work you do.
Just subbed to this channel after watching the Voodoo 3 repairathon, now I'm hooked. Very slick presentation, production and an easy watch. Can already tell this channel is on the up.
Goodness. I'm sitting on a goldmine. I found my 5500 in its original box that I put away in my surplus cupboard years ago. I should throw together some old PC components and see if it still works. No reason to think it wouldn't unless those caps are prone to deteriorate over time. I feel some retro time coming on.
Wow! Great work on reviving the V55. This card transformed my gaming back in 2000 - I used to play Janes Longbow 2 with it and before/after was night/day. I still have the card in its original box, it is one of those things I'll never use again but never part with either.
This reminds me on my electronics classes in high school. Teacher had a handful of systems from 80s 90s 00s for us to diagnose and repair. Component level repair on pcbs was only tought up to early 90s boards. Limited micro soldering and smd components.
Nice. Had a voodoo 5500 as a kid. It was a family pc. The number of hours blown away on that system playing quake 3, unreal, the sims was a peak era of my childhood. Now the card resides in my grandmas pc where she uses it to play bridge lol... never had the heart to ask her to let me swap it out. She's had it for almost 20 years.
I was just thinking the other day... I wish I had a channel I can watch that has all the tools and motivation for repair but has no idea what they are doing like me... And here you are my new friend!
Great repair job! If I can give a tip, use pre-cut short pieces of solder wick. This way it'll much easier to remove (old) solder as no heat from the iron will travel up the solder wick spool and get lost 😉 Also you might consider investing in a micro soldering station with those small knife edge like soldering tips for easier soldering of those fine pitch IC pins.
Thanks for your comment! Great tip on the wick - I'll definitely give that a try next time. You can definitely feel the heat travel up the wick even when holding it several inches away from the end. I just picked up the Hakko 888d that I used in this video and definitely need to get some more tips for it. I've seen people do drag soldering with a knife-style tip. I'll have to give that a shot one day.
I'm the original owner of the PCI version of this card. It worked the last time I tried it about 5-6 years ago. I still have a lga775 motherboard it should work in. Keep saying I'm going to dig it out and try it.
I had the Voodoo 5500 PCI version. I think I had it around 1999-2000? Cost me £199.99. Great card at the time but once I’d swapped to a GeForce 2 64Mb the difference was incredible! The GeForce was AGP so that may have helped as well. The biggest difference was the explosions and wall damage in Red Faction.
I remember this card being announced and I couldn’t wait. Picked it up shortly after it’s release date. Damn good card. I only wish the the VooDoo 5 6000 would’ve gotten released.
I still have one of these that I bought new at the time. This card smoked just about everything on the market at the time, and the anti-aliasing was truly remarkable. Got it home, and discovered my power supply wasn't up to the task, but with a new PSU I got a few years of enjoyment from the card. Great repair job - congrats on many new subscribers!
Awesome seeing someone putting such passion into original hardware. I have started collecting a few little pieces of older hardware from my youth, though no Voodoo cards. This makes me think I should save the remaining Voodoo cards for people like you rather than just putting old cards in a display.
This was the GPU that solidified my love for PC gaming. It made Unreal and Unreal Tournament look amazing back then (which were my favorite games). I was sick when 3DFX went out of business, I tried to keep it up to date with 3rd party drivers but eventually succombed when nVidia released the Geforce 4 Ti4200 which I used till the FX series launched.
As an "experienced" solderer, good job! One tip I learned during my IPC7711 training was to prior to laying down your SMD component, put solder on one of the pads and then put your component down and melt the solder:)
Thanks for the feedback! I have tried this method as well in the past while replacing some broken off SMD caps on a different card. It worked really well.
Thanks so much, Necroware! It really means a lot 🙂.. Your repair videos have been a huge inspiration to me and have helped to give me the confidence to try things like this. Thanks for all that you do! 👍
i've got one of these cards(since new, decades ago) in storage i've been wanting to break out and see if it'll work or not on a ultimate 2000's retro build. damn it was a sad day watching @3dfx #3dfx go down in flames, I still remember the day i bought this card and i was so stoked to finally have a semi high end card for a change.
Congratulations on your +1K subs! I can honestly say that your videos are very satisfying to watch. The fact that you’re also very satisfied by the results of your work, makes the videos perfect. Thanks for that!
Great job there, well done so satisfying fixing stuff and getting a bargin. Before moving in to IT and programming, my first job from higher education was a digital bench technician, I was already quite familiar with soldered before starting that job, but really got to hone my skills. Two tips i can think of, if you want to get better at drag/wave soldering, if your current iron will take it, buy a tip with a well, a small dimple on the lower angled very end. Weller probably make the best, they are smooth so don't catch and bend pins and the dimple is like a reservoir of soldier as you move along the pins of the component. I always found it easier to tack one end pin like you did, but use that to then align them chip, don't worry there plenty of give to move the chip ic around without snapping the tacked pin, it just gives you one less angle to worry about. The other is a really nice pair of tweezers, with a very fine end for smd components, maybe one straight and one curved. Only ever use them for smd work and keep them pristine, stored in a box as once they are bent its very hard to get them back and your tiny smd part will ping off when trying to grip them. Speaking of, a really nice pair of tweezers should allow you to confidently pick up a 0603 resistor even a 0402, place is where it needs to be while still griping it and tack one side, so you don't have to use the sticky flux. Using your little finger on the pcb to steady your hand try to get to the point where you can just pickup the component without letting go to push it around trying to line it up and line it up while gripping but as I say without quality correct tweezers this impossible. Hope you don't think I'm trying to be a know it all, I'm way out of practice but I can still see it in my head how to approach things but know what worked, and there's a reason those techniques were taught to us. At the end of the day though you use what you have and improvise and I have to say you did really well aligning the smds and memory ics.
Thanks very much, I appreciate you sharing those soldering tips with me! I’m definitely going to try to find an iron tip like you described and will try to get some practice on a scrap board one of these days. Thanks again! 👍
A tip for soldering SMDs : Tin all the pads before placing the chip, aligning might be a bit harder, but all you have to do is secure 2 pins to keep it locked up then you can drag your iron without any solder in it, the soldier thats in the pads will do the job, i would apply gentle pressure on top of the chip just to make sure it all remains solid while dragging. Having a knife type tip helps, then all you have to do is nudge test the pins once you're done.
Great video Mike, glad things are going well. Well done project here, super cool you got it working. In my head, this is still an unattainable high end GPU of amazement. Nice digital magnifier.
I have a small tech channel myself and it is very encouraging to see other small channels growing in the Wild Wild West (www) of UA-cam. I loved your repair video and ofc I did subscribe. Keep it up.
I'm somewhat of a beginner myself as well on soldering. But i found that if i absolutely soak the board on flux, the dragging works and i have no blobs/bridges. And even if i get bridges, again soaking it in flux makes it magically disappear when touched with iron. But as you, i'm also probably doing it wrong, but this has so far worked for me.
Thanks for the tip! .. Flux can definitely work some magic. I'm going to try to add more when I start seeing the bridges next time. I need to experiment with some different iron tips too. I've found that there are so many ways to "get the job done" - not necessarily wrong, but some take longer or make more of a mess. Hey, what whatever works and you are most comfortable with is the way to go :)
You're right to recap the card. 80s and 90s SMD electrolytics are notorious for seal failure and leaking. What's insidious about SMD electrolytics is that the base of the cap will wick the leaked electrolyte and keep it under the cap, keeping the problem hidden a lot longer than a normal radial or axial cap. I've had to recap all of my Voodoo cards because of leaking SMD electrolytics, as well as tons of other electronics from the era with SMD caps.
Very true! So much harder to spot bad SMDs than TH vented caps that's for sure. I've got all the caps required, just need to find some time. Will probably replace the two big polymer ones too for good measure.
Man, I can't quite define what it is, but there's something so cosy for me about the Windows 2000 look ... I used to be able to spend ages just moving the mouse around and enjoying the shadow! That background shade too!
I see a pattern here... I also announced the 1000th subs a few weeks ago and since then I got about the same subs you have now. I see YT algorithm has worked the same for us! :) It's well earned though, your videos are of very high quality, and there is a lot shown in a short time. I like your techniques and the fact you're not shy in showing your mistakes, from which we all learn about. I am no expert in electronics and I am also learning on my way so I am aware that my techniques might not be the most elegant. I see a bit of myself in your troubleshooting - but I cannot match your English! :) I'm glad I found your channel, well done!
Thanks very much for the kind words! Congratulations on the recent growth as well! I just subscribed to your channel and will definitely check it out. I've been very pleasantly surprised by the growth in the last couple of months. It seems REALLY difficult to get off the ground when starting out. The YT algorithm remains a complete mystery to me :)
Just checked out a couple of your videos, your content is excellent! Looking forward to seeing more. Oh, and just wanted to mention too that your English is perfect :) Thanks again.
@@vswitchzero same here. When you’re below 1000 it seems that it won’t matter what you publish, nobody is watching your videos! And your videos are good! Thanks for subscribing!
Thats a great job on the repair and awesome perseverance to keep going at it. The old retro hardware can really test your patience sometime. Plus it's great to see another iconic card brought back to life and working again. I hope we get to see it in a future build sometime!
Such a great video. I had one of these cards brand new back in the day and then Voodoo went under- so it sat around until I ditched it- very disappointing looking back; I should have kept it. So glad you persevered; you deserved this win !
That's awesome! You've almost inspired me to pick up a soldering iron and start playing with some older parts from my stash... almost.. lol. Grats on 1K! I hit that mark a few months ago. It's a great feeling :)
I remember playing EverQuest on that GPU, with the GLide API and the AA on it looked great. Had the 5500 AGP version of it, was a great card eventually replaced it with a Geforce2 Ultra 64 down the road.
Just found your channel and I'm really enjoying the content. A recommendation to add to your tools, a 12w precision iron. Personally I've always used the Antex 12w. It makes working with smd components where you have to use an iron childsplay, far far easier. 👍
Very cool video! When I was last at my parents' house in 2017 I founded my old Voodoo 5 5500 AGP card, but I didn't bring it home with me as I had so many other retro gaming finds there that I needed to fit in my suitcase.😅 I have an old 440BX motherboard with a P3 700MHz and 384 MB of SDRAM. I've been thinking of putting Windows 98SE on it and making it a retro gaming late 90's and earlier PC gaming machine. I wonder if my card still works. It worked when I took it out, but it's been sitting for years untested.
Fantastic vid! Just found you randomly. I have a 5500 coming in from eBay I bought cheap that has a broken fan blade on one of the vga coolers. So that'll be ... fun. I'm going to put aftermarket heatsinks over each chip and then have a large fan cooling the two mounted above them. I'm hoping the rest of the card works as he says it does.
Thanks very much for your comment! I saw the photos of your new 5500 on Twitter. Best of luck with the cooling system modification. Enjoy the awesome card! :)
Nice work. And that second memory replacement wasn't a waste. You said yourself you'd improved your skills, so it was great follow-up practice if nothing else. Also, drag soldering seems to be easier on newer boards. Better solder mask maybe, and no corrosion? That, and a new, small wedge tip combined with generous flux and finding a "good" tip temperature (if you have the option) can really help.
Nice repair. I noticed ur card's bios has been flashed to the unofficial version 1.18. The original from 3dfx is 1.06 (u can check the sticker). The only difference is the memory CAS latency changed from 3 to 2. Im guessing the memory u replaced supports CAS 2 at 166Mhz.
That's very interesting! To be honest, I didn't even notice the BIOS version. I was way too focused on just getting it working 🙂 The Alliance AS4C2M32SA-6TCN chips I used appear to be slightly better rated than the original Hyundai chips. They are rated at 5.4ns (despite the -6TCN in the model number) and do officially support CAS2 at 166MHz according to the datasheet, which is great. Will be interesting to benchmark this card against the other one when I get it back 👍
I had a Voodoo 3 3000. I had to change the thermal paste and adapt a cooler on the heatsink. TOP plate. It ran Unreal and Raibow 6 - Rogue Spear excellently!
Could try more and better quality flux, and leaded solder. You really want the area around the joint to stay noticeably wet with flux, and the lower working temp of leaded solder will let the puddle flow better as you move along the pins. Best of luck.
There are BCM tips available for your Hakko: the plato HS530 and HS531. They have a concave tip, and there is a solder well inside. This makes drag soldering a bit easier.
@@vswitchzero I have the fx888d as well, and i almost exclusively use these tips. I've replaced a PowerVR PCX2, a whole bunch of ADV7611s, and some FFC connectors. Some solder bridges, but not as many as you seem to have with a non-well tip.
Its a really cool card. If only i got one before the prices went through the roof. The dream tho would be one of those remade voodoo cards (shaman?) It's amazing and if only i had the money i would buy it in a heartbeat.
you can check vcc and gnd of memory chips if its grounded with a multitester to narrow down the bad memory. by looks of it the previous owner has a shorted to ground problem when you pointed out that worked on filter capacitor at the beginning of this video.
Great work man. Practice practice practice that slide soldering technique. I used to just use junk being thrown away at goodwills and stuff like that to practice with. Also, I would've replaced all the ram chips.
Thanks! I definitely need to find some time to get more practice with drag soldering. I would have liked to replace all the RAM, but was still quite nervous every time I did a chip. Maybe once I get some more experience I'll go back and do the others too :)
Pretty clean soldering joints there man. 👍 😎 And yes the blue artifacting is from bad SDRAM modules. The Hyundai RAM used on many cards was known for failing fairly bad, especially with the 1.18 BIOS. The SK Hynix SDRAM was actually much better to have and was more stable.
had a 3000 pci and always wanted the 5000 but had no agp port and couldn't afford one at the time. was gutted when they went bust, such good cards for their time
I've got one of these (PCI version) sitting in it's box in the cupboard, been there about 20 years, no idea if it works or not though. Been meaning to put it on eBay.
Fantastic job with the repairs on this. I dabble in stuff like this and have fixed many cards over the years, but I haven't done any surface mount memory or chip swapping yet. It would be super helpful if you could let us know what temperatures you use on your iron and hot air station when performing the various tasks you're doing. If you still remember now what you used that would be great, but for future videos it'd be awesome to hear what temp your iron is running at, at least a few times during the video. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks! Good idea, I’ll be sure to include that for future videos. I generally keep my iron at 725-750, which works well in most situations. For hot air, I’d have to check but I think it’s about 385C/725F as well.
Hello. Change the tip of the soldering iron to the so-called mini-wave, it is a tip with a cavity in which the surface tension of the solder is quite high. Trust me, you will be delighted because it is phenomenally easy to solder to integrated circuits with many leads. Amtech is a producer of the best fluxes I have worked with, it is only important to take it from a trusted source, there is a lot of counterfeit products on the market. Greetings from Poland.
Thanks for the tips! I’m definitely going to try to find an iron tip like you described and get some more practice on some scrap boards. I bought some amtech flux recently as well. It’s great to work with 👍
You are doing great mate, I have been doing it for over 50 years so if you want any advice I would say your only problem is your bit it too large, use a fine pointed bit and the same technique you are already using and you shouldn't get as many bridges. Bob , UK
Thanks for the tips! Since doing that video, I bought a whole bunch of T18 tips for my iron including some fine point versions. Made a big difference. Cheers!
Great to see a review on one of these. I have a brand new one and am thinking of building me a retro old saga PC with whatever I can use to beef it up somewhat. Had no idea they are worth so much. I'd never sell mine as I knew this was going to be a great 3dFX card. Sad part of it all is 3dFX was way better that it's competitors but because they went broke the others won. Crappy 3d cards for years and years as they tried so hard to get to where 3dFX already was over a decade ago. Seemed really weird to me that being so good for it's day that they went out of business. I think it was sabotage to me. What do you think? When something lesser is chosen over something greater seems a little fishy to me. Where would 3dFX be today if they had survived? Now that's an interesting question!
Just watched this, as the proud owner of both the 5500 AGP and PCI I'm going to go over my PCI shortly to use in a retro build where the V5 is the only bottleneck on a Ryzen :P As for yourself, you have the skills so perhaps you could try the memory upgrade to 64MB/chip 128MB total. Seeing as you have 2 V5 AGP's you'll have plenty of reference between them and a bit of a safety net lol
I've been working on a Voodoo 5 5500 (PCI) as well... same problem as you only switching to one VSA doesn't help. I guess that narrows it down to the primary one... will replace the SDRAM and see if that fixes it!
@hzero Thank you! I replaced one SDRAM chip but unfortunately it didn't fix it. Hopefully the issue is with one of the other 3. I do actually get almost the same exact artifact pattern as you, only the lines are red not blue.
@vswitchzero Aaa 3DFX...so much I love mine. I bought my 5500 PCI 22 years ago. I still have the invoice for my purchase with my father's name on it (you had to order it because there was no stock, I was only 16). I played with it a lot...great card which was the only one able to meet my needs since it was the most powerful PCI and my PC had no AGP port. I have the box, the demo CD offered with the box, the installation CD, the purchase invoice, the product compliance sheet and the graphics card. Everything is there and complete as if I had bought it yesterday. I tested it 8 years ago and it worked perfectly. I would like to restart it again but I'm scared. Can you advise me what to check before starting it? A maintenance before the start? Thanks
Wow that’s awesome! You don’t see too many 3dfx cards around with all the original packaging intact! And the PCI version of the Voodoo 5 is quite rare too. As long as the card is in good physical condition and there is no damage to it, I think it should be very safe to give it a try. Just be sure the system you try it in has a good power supply if you haven’t tried it in a while. Maybe test the rails with a multimeter to make sure they are in spec etc. Cards that are in storage for a long time with varying temperatures can have the seals in the electrolytic caps go bad and dry out. Thankfully a recap isn’t too difficult to do. But I wouldn’t risk it unless you know there is a problem. It sounds like you took really good care of the card so I’m pretty sure it’ll work fine 🙂 Let me know how it goes if you try it out again 👍
@@vswitchzero In fact I have my 1998 PC in which my card has always worked.^^ I know that they are both compatible. It is because of him that I chose the voodoo 5 PCI. Because the processor was a celeron 466mhz. Since 3DFX was the brand that made great pilot (glide) and great optimization. My weak processor was not a problem with a 3DFX V5 as it was perfectly optimized for games: Unreal 99 and even 2004! On the other hand, I'm afraid about the cooling of my PC, should the thermal paste be replaced? Glad you like it ^^ At the time we laughed a lot at the PCI, yet my PCI was more efficient than many AGP cards (except the gforce 2 GTS) thanks to the optimization of 3DFX... and what about the image quality thanks to Glide...magnificent. Do you have a facebook page?
Nothing is more satisfying is to see how someone brings a new life to a broken thing. Thanks for your dedication!
Thanks very much! :)
Your perseverance is inspiring! Pretty great you were able to bring this one back, and the population of working V5 5500s grows by one. :D
Thanks so much for your comment! It was a lot of work, but a great learning experience and well worth the effort 🙂
That's incredibly cool that you got it working! You're right; there's nothing like the satisfaction of fixing it yourself. Congrats!
Thanks, Charlie! So true 👍
Apple hated your comment
Im so glad so se that there are peps that still loves this old cards. It warms my nerdy heart. Thank you for the great video and keep up the great work you do.
Thanks so much! :)
Just subbed to this channel after watching the Voodoo 3 repairathon, now I'm hooked. Very slick presentation, production and an easy watch. Can already tell this channel is on the up.
Thanks so much, really appreciate it! :)
Ah, Voodoo. I still have a working 16MB Voodoo Banshee. I loved the Voodoo line.
Goodness. I'm sitting on a goldmine. I found my 5500 in its original box that I put away in my surplus cupboard years ago. I should throw together some old PC components and see if it still works. No reason to think it wouldn't unless those caps are prone to deteriorate over time. I feel some retro time coming on.
Wow! Great work on reviving the V55. This card transformed my gaming back in 2000 - I used to play Janes Longbow 2 with it and before/after was night/day. I still have the card in its original box, it is one of those things I'll never use again but never part with either.
This reminds me on my electronics classes in high school. Teacher had a handful of systems from 80s 90s 00s for us to diagnose and repair. Component level repair on pcbs was only tought up to early 90s boards. Limited micro soldering and smd components.
Nice. Had a voodoo 5500 as a kid. It was a family pc. The number of hours blown away on that system playing quake 3, unreal, the sims was a peak era of my childhood.
Now the card resides in my grandmas pc where she uses it to play bridge lol... never had the heart to ask her to let me swap it out. She's had it for almost 20 years.
I was just thinking the other day... I wish I had a channel I can watch that has all the tools and motivation for repair but has no idea what they are doing like me... And here you are my new friend!
Wahoo! 1k! Keep it Up Awesome Choice for the Milestone
Thanks, Philip! 👍
Dude it's a VOODOO!! 🍿🔥
Great repair job! If I can give a tip, use pre-cut short pieces of solder wick. This way it'll much easier to remove (old) solder as no heat from the iron will travel up the solder wick spool and get lost 😉 Also you might consider investing in a micro soldering station with those small knife edge like soldering tips for easier soldering of those fine pitch IC pins.
Thanks for your comment! Great tip on the wick - I'll definitely give that a try next time. You can definitely feel the heat travel up the wick even when holding it several inches away from the end. I just picked up the Hakko 888d that I used in this video and definitely need to get some more tips for it. I've seen people do drag soldering with a knife-style tip. I'll have to give that a shot one day.
I'm the original owner of the PCI version of this card. It worked the last time I tried it about 5-6 years ago. I still have a lga775 motherboard it should work in. Keep saying I'm going to dig it out and try it.
I had the Voodoo 5500 PCI version. I think I had it around 1999-2000? Cost me £199.99. Great card at the time but once I’d swapped to a GeForce 2 64Mb the difference was incredible! The GeForce was AGP so that may have helped as well. The biggest difference was the explosions and wall damage in Red Faction.
1 year later and you now have 13.4k subscribers 🙂 I enjoy your video's with repairs. thankyou so much 🙂
Thank you very much! 😁👍
I remember this card being announced and I couldn’t wait. Picked it up shortly after it’s release date. Damn good card. I only wish the the VooDoo 5 6000 would’ve gotten released.
How awesome was that! Amazing detail and good eye to catch those problems. Now this can be applied to every old rebuild.
Thanks very much! :)
I still have one of these that I bought new at the time. This card smoked just about everything on the market at the time, and the anti-aliasing was truly remarkable. Got it home, and discovered my power supply wasn't up to the task, but with a new PSU I got a few years of enjoyment from the card. Great repair job - congrats on many new subscribers!
Thanks very much! :)
The amount of problems with this card is incredible!! Great work on the perseverance and repair of the card!
Thanks very much! :)
MadOnion - what a blast from the past. I remember those benchmarks looking incredible!
Awesome seeing someone putting such passion into original hardware. I have started collecting a few little pieces of older hardware from my youth, though no Voodoo cards. This makes me think I should save the remaining Voodoo cards for people like you rather than just putting old cards in a display.
This was the GPU that solidified my love for PC gaming. It made Unreal and Unreal Tournament look amazing back then (which were my favorite games). I was sick when 3DFX went out of business, I tried to keep it up to date with 3rd party drivers but eventually succombed when nVidia released the Geforce 4 Ti4200 which I used till the FX series launched.
I still have my original voodoo5 5500! Man I played the hell out of Tribes back then with it.
As an "experienced" solderer, good job! One tip I learned during my IPC7711 training was to prior to laying down your SMD component, put solder on one of the pads and then put your component down and melt the solder:)
Thanks for the feedback! I have tried this method as well in the past while replacing some broken off SMD caps on a different card. It worked really well.
@@vswitchzero If in the future you need help with soldering or clues to what may be faulty you can contact me:)
Congratulations to 1K subs! Great job!
Thanks so much, Necroware! It really means a lot 🙂.. Your repair videos have been a huge inspiration to me and have helped to give me the confidence to try things like this. Thanks for all that you do! 👍
i've got one of these cards(since new, decades ago) in storage i've been wanting to break out and see if it'll work or not on a ultimate 2000's retro build. damn it was a sad day watching @3dfx #3dfx go down in flames, I still remember the day i bought this card and i was so stoked to finally have a semi high end card for a change.
that 3dmark footage at the end, on frame rates a bit shy of what my geforce2 used to get, triggered a chain of memories. good times.
Congratulations on your +1K subs!
I can honestly say that your videos are very satisfying to watch. The fact that you’re also very satisfied by the results of your work, makes the videos perfect. Thanks for that!
Thanks so much for your comment and the kind words, I really appreciate it!
Great job there, well done so satisfying fixing stuff and getting a bargin. Before moving in to IT and programming, my first job from higher education was a digital bench technician, I was already quite familiar with soldered before starting that job, but really got to hone my skills. Two tips i can think of, if you want to get better at drag/wave soldering, if your current iron will take it, buy a tip with a well, a small dimple on the lower angled very end. Weller probably make the best, they are smooth so don't catch and bend pins and the dimple is like a reservoir of soldier as you move along the pins of the component. I always found it easier to tack one end pin like you did, but use that to then align them chip, don't worry there plenty of give to move the chip ic around without snapping the tacked pin, it just gives you one less angle to worry about. The other is a really nice pair of tweezers, with a very fine end for smd components, maybe one straight and one curved. Only ever use them for smd work and keep them pristine, stored in a box as once they are bent its very hard to get them back and your tiny smd part will ping off when trying to grip them. Speaking of, a really nice pair of tweezers should allow you to confidently pick up a 0603 resistor even a 0402, place is where it needs to be while still griping it and tack one side, so you don't have to use the sticky flux. Using your little finger on the pcb to steady your hand try to get to the point where you can just pickup the component without letting go to push it around trying to line it up and line it up while gripping but as I say without quality correct tweezers this impossible. Hope you don't think I'm trying to be a know it all, I'm way out of practice but I can still see it in my head how to approach things but know what worked, and there's a reason those techniques were taught to us. At the end of the day though you use what you have and improvise and I have to say you did really well aligning the smds and memory ics.
Thanks very much, I appreciate you sharing those soldering tips with me! I’m definitely going to try to find an iron tip like you described and will try to get some practice on a scrap board one of these days. Thanks again! 👍
Great job! Definitely worth saving this card!
Thanks, Carsten! So true - every 3dfx card deserves a second chance, that's for sure 👍
A tip for soldering SMDs : Tin all the pads before placing the chip, aligning might be a bit harder, but all you have to do is secure 2 pins to keep it locked up then you can drag your iron without any solder in it, the soldier thats in the pads will do the job, i would apply gentle pressure on top of the chip just to make sure it all remains solid while dragging.
Having a knife type tip helps, then all you have to do is nudge test the pins once you're done.
Thanks for the tips!
i remember when those cards were announced but i never got my hands on one. i rocked the voodoo 3 for a long time.
Great video Mike, glad things are going well. Well done project here, super cool you got it working. In my head, this is still an unattainable high end GPU of amazement.
Nice digital magnifier.
Thanks so much, Spladam! The Tomlov digital microscope I got was very much worth the investment. It makes doing this type of work so much easier 👍
I have a small tech channel myself and it is very encouraging to see other small channels growing in the Wild Wild West (www) of UA-cam. I loved your repair video and ofc I did subscribe. Keep it up.
Thanks so much, it means a lot! 👍🙂
I'm somewhat of a beginner myself as well on soldering. But i found that if i absolutely soak the board on flux, the dragging works and i have no blobs/bridges. And even if i get bridges, again soaking it in flux makes it magically disappear when touched with iron.
But as you, i'm also probably doing it wrong, but this has so far worked for me.
Thanks for the tip! .. Flux can definitely work some magic. I'm going to try to add more when I start seeing the bridges next time. I need to experiment with some different iron tips too.
I've found that there are so many ways to "get the job done" - not necessarily wrong, but some take longer or make more of a mess. Hey, what whatever works and you are most comfortable with is the way to go :)
Sorry you had to go through all of that but im so glad there were so many problems for the video. Nice job on the repair!
Thanks very much! :)
this is the best retro computer video I've ever seen
Thank you very much for the kind words! It means a lot! :)
Great work, it always pays out to be patient and keep working on a problem
You're right to recap the card. 80s and 90s SMD electrolytics are notorious for seal failure and leaking. What's insidious about SMD electrolytics is that the base of the cap will wick the leaked electrolyte and keep it under the cap, keeping the problem hidden a lot longer than a normal radial or axial cap.
I've had to recap all of my Voodoo cards because of leaking SMD electrolytics, as well as tons of other electronics from the era with SMD caps.
Very true! So much harder to spot bad SMDs than TH vented caps that's for sure. I've got all the caps required, just need to find some time. Will probably replace the two big polymer ones too for good measure.
Man, I can't quite define what it is, but there's something so cosy for me about the Windows 2000 look ... I used to be able to spend ages just moving the mouse around and enjoying the shadow!
That background shade too!
Agreed! I loved all the subtle UI changes in 2000 the first time I saw it.
I see a pattern here... I also announced the 1000th subs a few weeks ago and since then I got about the same subs you have now. I see YT algorithm has worked the same for us! :) It's well earned though, your videos are of very high quality, and there is a lot shown in a short time. I like your techniques and the fact you're not shy in showing your mistakes, from which we all learn about. I am no expert in electronics and I am also learning on my way so I am aware that my techniques might not be the most elegant. I see a bit of myself in your troubleshooting - but I cannot match your English! :) I'm glad I found your channel, well done!
Thanks very much for the kind words! Congratulations on the recent growth as well! I just subscribed to your channel and will definitely check it out. I've been very pleasantly surprised by the growth in the last couple of months. It seems REALLY difficult to get off the ground when starting out. The YT algorithm remains a complete mystery to me :)
Just checked out a couple of your videos, your content is excellent! Looking forward to seeing more. Oh, and just wanted to mention too that your English is perfect :) Thanks again.
@@vswitchzero same here. When you’re below 1000 it seems that it won’t matter what you publish, nobody is watching your videos! And your videos are good!
Thanks for subscribing!
@@vswitchzero just seen the second comment about the English, that’s very kind of you to say! Thanks 🖖
Great video! Nicely done and great teaching and sharing style! Looking forward to future videos.
Thanks so much for the kind words! 👍
Wow! What a magnificent job you produced on that board. I loved.
👑👑👑
Uau! Que trabalho magnífico você produziu nessa placa. Adorei.
Thanks so much! :)
Good Job . The legend came back to life🤩
Thats a great job on the repair and awesome perseverance to keep going at it. The old retro hardware can really test your patience sometime. Plus it's great to see another iconic card brought back to life and working again. I hope we get to see it in a future build sometime!
Thanks so much! It was a lot of work but these 3dfx cards are always worth the effort 😁
Excellent video. You did a great job with telling the story of fixing the card. As for your soldering skills, you did just fine. 👍
Thanks very much! :)
Very underrated , keep working love ur work...
Such a great video. I had one of these cards brand new back in the day and then Voodoo went under- so it sat around until I ditched it- very disappointing looking back; I should have kept it. So glad you persevered; you deserved this win !
Thanks so much! :)
adding a good liquid flux to the pins makes removing solder bridges on fine-pin footprints very easy
John Wick is a magic tool :)) (greetings to Ontario from Czech Republic)
That's awesome! You've almost inspired me to pick up a soldering iron and start playing with some older parts from my stash... almost.. lol.
Grats on 1K! I hit that mark a few months ago. It's a great feeling :)
Thanks so much! Congrats on the recent milestone as well!
thanks for preserving gaming history mate excellent work
Electronics engineer here, your soldering skills are pretty good :)
Thanks very much! With every soldering project I take on, I feel like my skill and confidence increases. Practice is definitely the key I’ve found 🙂
I remember playing EverQuest on that GPU, with the GLide API and the AA on it looked great. Had the 5500 AGP version of it, was a great card eventually replaced it with a Geforce2 Ultra 64 down the road.
Just found your channel and I'm really enjoying the content. A recommendation to add to your tools, a 12w precision iron. Personally I've always used the Antex 12w. It makes working with smd components where you have to use an iron childsplay, far far easier. 👍
Thanks very much and thanks for the recommendation. I'll definitely look into one.
I had no doubts that you would have find the problem by touching the card 🤣
Congrats for the 1K and keep it up!
Thanks very much for the comment! LOL - yep. I poke pretty much everything that doesn't work properly now 😁
I had this card back in the day, it was a beast
Very cool video! When I was last at my parents' house in 2017 I founded my old Voodoo 5 5500 AGP card, but I didn't bring it home with me as I had so many other retro gaming finds there that I needed to fit in my suitcase.😅 I have an old 440BX motherboard with a P3 700MHz and 384 MB of SDRAM. I've been thinking of putting Windows 98SE on it and making it a retro gaming late 90's and earlier PC gaming machine. I wonder if my card still works. It worked when I took it out, but it's been sitting for years untested.
I have the same behavior on a FX 5700U...your video inspired my to fix that card !! thanks
i saw that solder bridge immidiately as you showed the finished chip, it was clearly visible
Fantastic vid! Just found you randomly. I have a 5500 coming in from eBay I bought cheap that has a broken fan blade on one of the vga coolers. So that'll be ... fun. I'm going to put aftermarket heatsinks over each chip and then have a large fan cooling the two mounted above them. I'm hoping the rest of the card works as he says it does.
Thanks very much for your comment! I saw the photos of your new 5500 on Twitter. Best of luck with the cooling system modification. Enjoy the awesome card! :)
Nice work. And that second memory replacement wasn't a waste. You said yourself you'd improved your skills, so it was great follow-up practice if nothing else. Also, drag soldering seems to be easier on newer boards. Better solder mask maybe, and no corrosion? That, and a new, small wedge tip combined with generous flux and finding a "good" tip temperature (if you have the option) can really help.
Nice repair. I noticed ur card's bios has been flashed to the unofficial version 1.18. The original from 3dfx is 1.06 (u can check the sticker).
The only difference is the memory CAS latency changed from 3 to 2. Im guessing the memory u replaced supports CAS 2 at 166Mhz.
that's interesting, are you aware of a performance compare somewhere? CL3 to CL2 is quite a jump
That's very interesting! To be honest, I didn't even notice the BIOS version. I was way too focused on just getting it working 🙂 The Alliance AS4C2M32SA-6TCN chips I used appear to be slightly better rated than the original Hyundai chips. They are rated at 5.4ns (despite the -6TCN in the model number) and do officially support CAS2 at 166MHz according to the datasheet, which is great. Will be interesting to benchmark this card against the other one when I get it back 👍
Well, as i remember from years ago u can gain from 1 to 2 FPS in games such Quake III with the 1.18 bios
@@jache2k201 uh, that does't seem a lot, almost within a margin of error between time demo runs, I would expect a little bit more from CL3 to CL2
@@framebuffer.10 Almost? That literally is margin of error.
lol nice work. i am happy to see that it is working, Can i contact with you about my old voodoo 3. It is not working and need your help about it.
Thanks very much 🙂 Happy to help if I can. I responded to your message on Twitter.
This video is absolute shock for me. Must pull this card out of the pile and keep it somewhere safe...
That's a really cool card. Interesting piece of history.
I had a Voodoo 3 3000. I had to change the thermal paste and adapt a cooler on the heatsink. TOP plate. It ran Unreal and Raibow 6 - Rogue Spear excellently!
Could try more and better quality flux, and leaded solder.
You really want the area around the joint to stay noticeably wet with flux, and the lower working temp of leaded solder will let the puddle flow better as you move along the pins.
Best of luck.
Thanks for such experience!
It's funny how many of us have this same exact problem. I guess I need to get off my rear and try this on my V5.
Job looks clean to me. Don't worry. Some extra solder on the ends may protect parts from getting knocked off again. Good going.
Thanks very much! 👍
There are BCM tips available for your Hakko: the plato HS530 and HS531. They have a concave tip, and there is a solder well inside. This makes drag soldering a bit easier.
Thanks! Will definitely look into these.
@@vswitchzero I have the fx888d as well, and i almost exclusively use these tips. I've replaced a PowerVR PCX2, a whole bunch of ADV7611s, and some FFC connectors. Some solder bridges, but not as many as you seem to have with a non-well tip.
Its a really cool card. If only i got one before the prices went through the roof.
The dream tho would be one of those remade voodoo cards (shaman?) It's amazing and if only i had the money i would buy it in a heartbeat.
you can check vcc and gnd of memory chips if its grounded with a multitester to narrow down the bad memory. by looks of it the previous owner has a shorted to ground problem when you pointed out that worked on filter capacitor at the beginning of this video.
Great work man.
Practice practice practice that slide soldering technique. I used to just use junk being thrown away at goodwills and stuff like that to practice with.
Also, I would've replaced all the ram chips.
Thanks! I definitely need to find some time to get more practice with drag soldering. I would have liked to replace all the RAM, but was still quite nervous every time I did a chip. Maybe once I get some more experience I'll go back and do the others too :)
Pretty clean soldering joints there man. 👍 😎
And yes the blue artifacting is from bad SDRAM modules. The Hyundai RAM used on many cards was known for failing fairly bad, especially with the 1.18 BIOS. The SK Hynix SDRAM was actually much better to have and was more stable.
wow love your video i still have those voodo 3dfx cards, the voodoo2, banshee, and voodoo 3 im still looking for all models
Kudos for honesty and insights. GG
Nice fixes, well worked.
Good luck with the channel.
Thanks very much! 🙂
I owned one of these. I threw it out about four years ago. The things you find when clearing your Tech closet out.
Know I see as 3.4k . KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!
had a 3000 pci and always wanted the 5000 but had no agp port and couldn't afford one at the time. was gutted when they went bust, such good cards for their time
I've got one of these (PCI version) sitting in it's box in the cupboard, been there about 20 years, no idea if it works or not though.
Been meaning to put it on eBay.
Fantastic job with the repairs on this. I dabble in stuff like this and have fixed many cards over the years, but I haven't done any surface mount memory or chip swapping yet. It would be super helpful if you could let us know what temperatures you use on your iron and hot air station when performing the various tasks you're doing. If you still remember now what you used that would be great, but for future videos it'd be awesome to hear what temp your iron is running at, at least a few times during the video.
Thank you for sharing!
Thanks! Good idea, I’ll be sure to include that for future videos. I generally keep my iron at 725-750, which works well in most situations. For hot air, I’d have to check but I think it’s about 385C/725F as well.
What memories....
I now kick myself getting rid of all computer parts!!
I had closet full parts from 386 to socket 7
Hello.
Change the tip of the soldering iron to the so-called mini-wave, it is a tip with a cavity in which the surface tension of the solder is quite high.
Trust me, you will be delighted because it is phenomenally easy to solder to integrated circuits with many leads.
Amtech is a producer of the best fluxes I have worked with, it is only important to take it from a trusted source, there is a lot of counterfeit products on the market.
Greetings from Poland.
Thanks for the tips! I’m definitely going to try to find an iron tip like you described and get some more practice on some scrap boards. I bought some amtech flux recently as well. It’s great to work with 👍
i subscribed today, i discovered this channel thanks to the youtube algorithm, congratulations on your +1K subs
Thanks very much! :)
You are doing great mate, I have been doing it for over 50 years so if you want any advice I would say your only problem is your bit it too large, use a fine pointed bit and the same technique you are already using and you shouldn't get as many bridges. Bob , UK
Thanks for the tips! Since doing that video, I bought a whole bunch of T18 tips for my iron including some fine point versions. Made a big difference. Cheers!
Great to see a review on one of these. I have a brand new one and am thinking of building me a retro old saga PC with whatever I can use to beef it up somewhat. Had no idea they are worth so much. I'd never sell mine as I knew this was going to be a great 3dFX card. Sad part of it all is 3dFX was way better that it's competitors but because they went broke the others won. Crappy 3d cards for years and years as they tried so hard to get to where 3dFX already was over a decade ago. Seemed really weird to me that being so good for it's day that they went out of business. I think it was sabotage to me. What do you think? When something lesser is chosen over something greater seems a little fishy to me. Where would 3dFX be today if they had survived? Now that's an interesting question!
Very nice, I recommend getting a FLIR, might reduce troubleshooting time...
I bet the original owner, who "wasn't able" to test this card, is so mad right now. haha! Totally makes it worth it.
Great tenacity. Great work.
Thanks 👍🙂
Nice job man! Was on the edge of my seat the whole time..
Thanks very much! 🙂
For dragsoldering you need a hollow solder tip.
Ohhh that's very very good. What microscope are you using?
Thank you
Thanks! The microscope is a Tomlov DM9 (can be found on Amazon). Been really happy with it and really comes in handy for repairs like this.
Just watched this, as the proud owner of both the 5500 AGP and PCI I'm going to go over my PCI shortly to use in a retro build where the V5 is the only bottleneck on a Ryzen :P
As for yourself, you have the skills so perhaps you could try the memory upgrade to 64MB/chip 128MB total. Seeing as you have 2 V5 AGP's you'll have plenty of reference between them and a bit of a safety net lol
I've been working on a Voodoo 5 5500 (PCI) as well... same problem as you only switching to one VSA doesn't help. I guess that narrows it down to the primary one... will replace the SDRAM and see if that fixes it!
Best of luck with your Voodoo 5!
@hzero Thank you! I replaced one SDRAM chip but unfortunately it didn't fix it. Hopefully the issue is with one of the other 3. I do actually get almost the same exact artifact pattern as you, only the lines are red not blue.
@vswitchzero Aaa 3DFX...so much I love mine. I bought my 5500 PCI 22 years ago. I still have the invoice for my purchase with my father's name on it (you had to order it because there was no stock, I was only 16). I played with it a lot...great card which was the only one able to meet my needs since it was the most powerful PCI and my PC had no AGP port. I have the box, the demo CD offered with the box, the installation CD, the purchase invoice, the product compliance sheet and the graphics card. Everything is there and complete as if I had bought it yesterday. I tested it 8 years ago and it worked perfectly. I would like to restart it again but I'm scared. Can you advise me what to check before starting it? A maintenance before the start? Thanks
Wow that’s awesome! You don’t see too many 3dfx cards around with all the original packaging intact! And the PCI version of the Voodoo 5 is quite rare too. As long as the card is in good physical condition and there is no damage to it, I think it should be very safe to give it a try. Just be sure the system you try it in has a good power supply if you haven’t tried it in a while. Maybe test the rails with a multimeter to make sure they are in spec etc. Cards that are in storage for a long time with varying temperatures can have the seals in the electrolytic caps go bad and dry out. Thankfully a recap isn’t too difficult to do. But I wouldn’t risk it unless you know there is a problem. It sounds like you took really good care of the card so I’m pretty sure it’ll work fine 🙂
Let me know how it goes if you try it out again 👍
@@vswitchzero In fact I have my 1998 PC in which my card has always worked.^^ I know that they are both compatible. It is because of him that I chose the voodoo 5 PCI. Because the processor was a celeron 466mhz. Since 3DFX was the brand that made great pilot (glide) and great optimization. My weak processor was not a problem with a 3DFX V5 as it was perfectly optimized for games: Unreal 99 and even 2004! On the other hand, I'm afraid about the cooling of my PC, should the thermal paste be replaced? Glad you like it ^^ At the time we laughed a lot at the PCI, yet my PCI was more efficient than many AGP cards (except the gforce 2 GTS) thanks to the optimization of 3DFX... and what about the image quality thanks to Glide...magnificent. Do you have a facebook page?