Color Negative Film Conversion - The Easy Way!
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- Опубліковано 12 січ 2024
- In this video, I demonstrate a quick and easy way to convert your color negative film scans that is both consistent and repeatable.
Anthony Morganti's Video
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C-41 Film Processing
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Your system is so much simpler than most of the videos I have watched on this subject. Thank you for bypassing the tedium and "developing" an effective method that doesn't involve masking, film base color subtraction and twenty layers of adjustments. As a former professional color printer, I appreciate the more direct approach. I start out by using the simple keyboard shortcut (CTRL-I) to invert the image since I'm not concerned about non-destructive editing because I'm inverting a copy of the base layer. Using the Camera Raw Filter is a valuable tool that gives great flexibility. I make my final color adjustments with Color Balance rather than Hue/Saturation, because I'm used to repeatable techniques I learned on a color enlarger.
I appreciate you taking the time to share your experiences and process with all of us. Thank you for your support! 😎
Nice to see you post a video again! And… thank you 🙏
Thanks Loren! Hopefully I can make a few more! 😉
That’s also a fantastic point! Thank you for your contributions. I enjoy learning from everyone. 😃
The video we've all been waiting for!
Thanks Ryan!
Quick tip: the gamma adjustment inside the exposure adjustment in Photoshop is really useful for negative film to correct the overall low contrast in the beginning
Great tip Javier! I can’t wait to try that!😎
Great video, Tony! I'll have to give this a try.
Thanks Jay! It saved my color negatives 😄
Thanks for the video Tony, I hadn't thought of using Camera Raw for the creative corrections, that's probably easier than multiple layers in Photoshop! Also, I'm feeling the need to get back to the subway with the 4x5!
Hopefully it will help some people. I’m always up to go back to the Subway! 🤓
I found that Negative Lab Pro 3 gives good and halfway consistent results (wasn't pleased with previous versions, but this last version seems to have some improvements and handles even unusual scans). Requires the use of Lightroom, which I don't like. I tried the method you've shown again and again, and can't get the results I'm after. One factor might be the difference between using a "real" scanner (and the TIF files they produce) and a digital camera like I use (which do some sort of data processing that's geared to photographic work, not reproduction work).
Christian, that is a very good point. I think finding the best process that works for you is the most difficult part. Sounds like negative lab pro is a good solution. Thanks for watching!😎
Great video, and you don‘t need a specific software to follow the instructions. Affinity Photo should do the job, too. Or gimp, rawtherapee, or whatever you are used to.
Thanks Michael! I appreciate the support!
Your method will yield accurate correct color- but only at the white and black point. To create more balance throughout the curve, average the top and bottom numbers after moving them to the ends of the data. take that average and add the offset of the lowest number. The result is the output value for the middle of the curve.
Thanks for the great tip Bryce! I'll need to give that a go! I appreciate your support! 😀
Can you explain better what you mean? Which numbers? Move to the end of the data? Where do you add the lowest number? I'd like to try what you're saying but I have no idea what you're referring to... 😅
Or scan with SilverFast 9.
Yes, the presets can be helpful. Unfortunately, my Howtek 6500 drum scanner is locked in to SF 6.6 so the presets are very limiting. Thanks for watching!
I stopped paying for Adobe products, so I can't recall the best non-destructive way to do this, but you'll get better results usually with no editing at all if you crop the image before making all those histogram adjustments. There's just a tiny bit of color data in the black border (particularly noticeable in the red channel) that's throwing off where you set the black point on that channel. If you remove the border (or maybe mask it to a middle-gray), your histogram will only show data that's actually contributing to the image and it will often make your histogram adjustment the end point and not just a starting point for color correction.
That’s a great tip! I’ll have to give that a try. Thanks for watching!
@@tonysantophotographyas an addendum to this tip, you can use the border to help you with your black point - the unexposed film border represents the black end of that roll of film’s exposure/development range, and you should be able to apply the same value to all of the shots on that roll of film. You could always burn one shot on a roll with a super overexposure (or at least just over the edge), and that will give you the limit on the other end of the dynamic range.
The knock-on effect of this is that it’ll nudge you towards shooting to maximize the use of the dynamic range of the film, not necessarily getting a “perfect” exposure or something. So, push/pull processing comes into play to correct for harsh/dull light conditions and whatnot. Ansel Adams’ “The Negative” still fully applies to a scanning and digital manipulation process (and explains things much better than I ever could!).
Caveat: I’m not necessarily good at photography, just have solid grasp of the theory that has yet to fully materialize into skill lol
It will also get rid of those spikes on the white end of the histogram that you clipped, because those are usually highlights caused by the backlight and specular highlight reflections on the edge of the film. 😉@@tonysantophotography
Thanks for sharing. At the end playing with all color sliders is completely disconnecting you from the original film characteristics. How do you keep consistency?
That’s a great point. Generally, I try not to overdo the sliders and avoid trying to make it look like a digital image. For landscapes, I always try to keep Velvia 50 in mind without expecting color negative film to match it. For portraits, I judge each one individually depending upon the mood of the image. Thanks for watching!
So now it looks nothing like how the film would print the real image!!
I can appreciate and respect that. However, that’s not my goal with my prints. Thanks for watching. 😀
The "real image" is the orange negative. Those are it's "real colors". You don't print that. Color negative film has to be interpreted and edited to get a positive image.
Just a quick question.. if you have to edit your film images that way ( especially color modifications ), why don't you shoot digital..it way cheaper, easier and accessible.. my opinion of shooting film is to get the characteristic of what that film has to offer in the area of the color, contrast and saturation.. that's just my opinion...
Hi Josh. That’s a great point. Most people don’t need a drum scan. Luckily, I own a drum scanner so it’s not a big deal for me to scan an image. Otherwise, I would definitely use a digital camera setup. Thanks for watching!😀
Negatives have always been modified in this manner. Even back in the pre-digital days people would modify their prints in the darkroom. Most of the names of image editing tools (dodge, burn, mask etc.) come from techniques that were physically done in the darkroom. Filters were applied to enlargers for colour casts and exposure was literally turning the exposing lamp on for more or less time.
Even the late 90s 1 hour development labs offered (basic) colour correction and red eye removal, usually for £1/$1 more.
There are some characteristics of film like highlight blooming that would take just as much time to emulate on digital.
Ultimately it's down to what you enjoy using. I don't think anyone shooting film in current year is doing it for the cheapness of the medium!
@@chrisbarne7458 totally agree