How do waves break?

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Science of the Surf Playlist: • Science of the Surf
In this Episode 2 of Dr Rob Brander's Science Of The Surf series, we explore about how the waves break. What happens to waves when they come into shallow water? How do the slow down? How exactly do they break? If you love the surf, you'll love hearing about the science behind it with UNSW Australia's Dr Rob Brander.
www.scienceofthesurf.com.au
Related video: How to survive beach rip currents • How to survive beach r...
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Sciences de la Surf Playlist: • Science of the Surf
Dans l'épisode 2 de la science du Dr Rob Brander de la série de Surf, nous explorons comment les vagues se brisent. Que se passe aux ondes quand ils viennent en eau peu profonde? Comment le ralentissement? Comment exactement cassent-ils? Si vous aimez le surf, vous allez adorer entendre parler de la science derrière elle avec le Dr Rob Brander UNSW Australie.
www.scienceofthesurf.com.au
Vidéos similaires: Comment survivre plage rip courants • How to survive beach r...
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Wissenschaft der Surf Playlist : • Science of the Surf
In Episode 2 von Dr. Rob Branders Science Of The Surf-Serie, erforschen wir darüber, wie sich die Wellen brechen. Was geschieht mit den Wellen, wenn sie in flachem Wasser kommen? Wie funktionieren die langsam nach unten? Wie genau sie brechen? Wenn Sie die Brandung lieben, werden Sie dahinter mit UNSW Australiens Dr. Rob Brander Anhörung über die Wissenschaft lieben.
www.scienceofthesurf.com.au
Verwandte Videos: Wie Strand rip Strömungen zu überleben • How to survive beach r...
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[@bigfucknshaq1419]

Gordon Ramsay?

[@j_a_c_0191]

Dude your profile pic is one of the only non gay “censored eyes”

[@MrJackb926]

Typical scientist, makes no damn sense

[@mickavoidant4780]

There is a beach in southwest England with waves that break only sometimes. There only seconds between those that and that don't. Why the difference? Maybe gusts of wind, but I don't remember feeling any.

[@susan7588]

anyone here cos teacher want you to watch?

[@primalvision]

@DxsPro There is an episode 3 but we keep forgetting to upload it.

[@apokolipslord6403]

oceanography norcross

[@TheHeavy136]

Dr Rip I'm from St Bernards Australia!!!!!!!!!

[@tagekumarpaul7474]

2020?

[@TeresaLopez-jt6zf]

2020 indeed

[@tagekumarpaul7474]

@@TeresaLopez-jt6zf haha wow. i thought i was the only one

[@owenf3793]

2021

[@susan7588]

2022

[@koxtheknight7087]

Man looks like Gordon Ramsay

[@DxsPro]

no epi 3 :(

[@mosab643]

So, how do tiny boats even get past them?

[@averageenjoyer5150]

Poggy Woggers

[@mooripo]

Thanks !

[@averageenjoyer5150]

UwU

[@amazinggerard007]

Thanks

[@Cyfkycdrycvkb]

keep producing these!