My dad bought a low end Cub Cadet zero turn with steering wheel a little over 3 years ago. No problems whatsoever with it - until after the 3 yr warranty was up. The $200 plus starting module (cheap Chinese push button type with the reverse mow switch button) stopped allowing the mower deck to engage - although the tractor started fine. Our solution was to run a 12 gauge hot lead (with a 20 amp fuse holder) from the hot side of the voltage regulator directly to one of the legs on the original PTO switch and then continue this power line from the PTO switch down to the PTO clutch. We then grounded the clutch to the engine block with a short separate wire and we were back in business. The clutches on these type tractors are not polarized so the hot and ground lines can go on either connector on the clutch. The PTO switch still activates the mower deck and looks original. We also pulled the bus bar tab on the seat switch and left it disconnected - everything works great. Safety switches - we don't need any stinking safety switches.
If you just run 2 wires from your clutch plug to Positive and negative on the battery but not connect the positive wire until it's running, it will engage the clutch, thus the blades. The pto switch is just the same but with all the safety switches included to not allow it to operate if anything isn't working properly (all the safety switches etc) The older midside mowers just use a toggle stitch from the battery or engine power output to the pto clutch. I did that to an old Hustler Super -Z to just be able to flick the toggle to engage the pto. *** But the blades will continue to spin until the stitch is clicked off! Why they run all the safety switched. I feel it's over kill in commercial mowing when you are out in a 5 plus mile development. No troubleshooting this way. It either works or it doesn't.. Hope that helped. Jerry
You are correct but people need to know this pulls a lot of amps and you need at least 12 ga wire and a 4 or 5 amp toggle switch or pro switch so you don't burn your mower up
Ok I agree all but you need to use heavy wire 12 ga min and a 5 amp toggle switch or clutch switch did to the amps it pulls when you isolate the clutch
When I hook up the wires to my pto one wire is ground... What do I ground it to...amd the other wire is positive so I interrupt it with 2 wires battery wire to one side of toggle and the other wire to the.other side of toggle switch... am I correct
If you just run 2 wires from your clutch plug to Positive and negative on the battery but not connect the positive wire until it's running, it will engage the clutch, thus the blades. The pto switch is just the same but with all the safety switches included to not allow it to operate if anything isn't working properly (all the safety switches etc) The older midside mowers just use a toggle stitch from the battery or engine power output to the pto clutch. I did that to an old Hustler Super -Z to just be able to flick the toggle to engage the pto. *** But the blades will continue to spin until the stitch is clicked off! Why they run all the safety switched. I feel it's over kill in commercial mowing when you are out in a 5 plus mile development. No troubleshooting this way. It either works or it doesn't.. Hope that helped. Jerry
You only need a 12 gauge power line from the battery to a switch then to one terminal on the clutch. The other clutch terminal can just be grounded with a short 12 gauge wire to the engine block (look for the original ground screw on the block and just add your ground wire to it).
I followed your exact instructions the only thing is I have it running to my zero turn battery . well when I connect the positive after I have cracked the zero turn it automatically starts the blade on it. trying to figure out how to be able to control it from the switch still?
@@wcjcnc basically I have six wires in all. two to be able to hook to the switch . two more to be able to run to the clutch and the other two are from the battery but they all are hooked together like a positive and a negative from the battery so I believe on the video you say run the power source from the clutch straight to the switch could you tell me the steps or what I need to go back and do?
@@hammohammbbyblksheep4251 The electric clutch doesn’t really have a positive side and a negative side. It’s basically an electric coil so it doesn’t matter which side you use for power or ground. OK. From the clutch you need one wire for ground that goes straight to the battery ground terminal. The other wire from the clutch needs to go through any on/off switch then on to the positive terminal on the battery.
so so just to make sure I have this correct one of the wires running from the clutch needs to go to the positive on the battery and one of the wires from the clutch should be going to the ground instead of the negative on the battery?
My dad bought a low end Cub Cadet zero turn with steering wheel a little over 3 years ago. No problems whatsoever with it - until after the 3 yr warranty was up. The $200 plus starting module (cheap Chinese push button type with the reverse mow switch button) stopped allowing the mower deck to engage - although the tractor started fine. Our solution was to run a 12 gauge hot lead (with a 20 amp fuse holder) from the hot side of the voltage regulator directly to one of the legs on the original PTO switch and then continue this power line from the PTO switch down to the PTO clutch. We then grounded the clutch to the engine block with a short separate wire and we were back in business. The clutches on these type tractors are not polarized so the hot and ground lines can go on either connector on the clutch. The PTO switch still activates the mower deck and looks original. We also pulled the bus bar tab on the seat switch and left it disconnected - everything works great. Safety switches - we don't need any stinking safety switches.
If you just run 2 wires from your clutch plug to Positive and negative on the battery but not connect the positive wire until it's running, it will engage the clutch, thus the blades.
The pto switch is just the same but with all the safety switches included to not allow it to operate if anything isn't working properly (all the safety switches etc)
The older midside mowers just use a toggle stitch from the battery or engine power output to the pto clutch.
I did that to an old Hustler Super -Z to just be able to flick the toggle to engage the pto.
*** But the blades will continue to spin until the stitch is clicked off!
Why they run all the safety switched.
I feel it's over kill in commercial mowing when you are out in a 5 plus mile development.
No troubleshooting this way.
It either works or it doesn't..
Hope that helped.
Jerry
You are correct but people need to know this pulls a lot of amps and you need at least 12 ga wire and a 4 or 5 amp toggle switch or pro switch so you don't burn your mower up
Ok I agree all but you need to use heavy wire 12 ga min and a 5 amp toggle switch or clutch switch did to the amps it pulls when you isolate the clutch
I am looking to do this, but I could not find a 5 amp switch in my area. I found a 6 amp. Will 6 amp switch work? Thank you guys for your help.
When I hook up the wires to my pto one wire is ground... What do I ground it to...amd the other wire is positive so I interrupt it with 2 wires battery wire to one side of toggle and the other wire to the.other side of toggle switch... am I correct
If you just run 2 wires from your clutch plug to Positive and negative on the battery but not connect the positive wire until it's running, it will engage the clutch, thus the blades.
The pto switch is just the same but with all the safety switches included to not allow it to operate if anything isn't working properly (all the safety switches etc)
The older midside mowers just use a toggle stitch from the battery or engine power output to the pto clutch.
I did that to an old Hustler Super -Z to just be able to flick the toggle to engage the pto.
*** But the blades will continue to spin until the stitch is clicked off!
Why they run all the safety switched.
I feel it's over kill in commercial mowing when you are out in a 5 plus mile development.
No troubleshooting this way.
It either works or it doesn't..
Hope that helped.
Jerry
You only need a 12 gauge power line from the battery to a switch then to one terminal on the clutch. The other clutch terminal can just be grounded with a short 12 gauge wire to the engine block (look for the original ground screw on the block and just add your ground wire to it).
I followed your exact instructions the only thing is I have it running to my zero turn battery .
well when I connect the positive after I have cracked the zero turn it automatically starts the blade on it.
trying to figure out how to be able to control it from the switch still?
So you have the electric clutch wired straight to the battery?
@@wcjcnc basically I have six wires in all.
two to be able to hook to the switch .
two more to be able to run to the clutch and the other two are from the battery but they all are hooked together like a positive and a negative from the battery so I believe on the video you say run the power source from the clutch straight to the switch could you tell me the steps or what I need to go back and do?
@@hammohammbbyblksheep4251 The electric clutch doesn’t really have a positive side and a negative side. It’s basically an electric coil so it doesn’t matter which side you use for power or ground. OK. From the clutch you need one wire for ground that goes straight to the battery ground terminal. The other wire from the clutch needs to go through any on/off switch then on to the positive terminal on the battery.
so so just to make sure I have this correct one of the wires running from the clutch needs to go to the positive on the battery and one of the wires from the clutch should be going to the ground instead of the negative on the battery?
or should i have it the other way around