Thanks for all your great videos. Yost in Kansas owes you a commission. I bought the 1725MB box blade rotor tiller. Wish you were closer. Your videos really helped me make my decision
Glad we could help. Actually Yost gave me the idea to order that 7724S with Loader and working on closing a deal on it now. So we all help each other! That what good dealers do.
@@VahrenbergImplement Finish signing the papers with Dave today :-) tractor will be here the 15th can’t wait. I’ve known the family for 30 years and worked for them for a few years at their car dealership. Thanks again for the great videos. They really helped me make my decision to go with Massey Ferguson versus Kabota or John Deere.
I miss them too but Family Business Comes First and too much business happening now. I'd like to just get back on the water and cast a line. Been once in 2.5 Years.
Great & informative video ! I've always used a grader blade since day one, they are the Swiss army knife of implements & I use my M-F 50 most of the time to work our road , because you don't have to get off the seat to adjust the angle of the blade , They came with a hand crank device to extend or contract the right side arm ,( upper link ) that controls the angel .It is also known as a leveling box assembly . & why new tractors don't come with this feature I don't know ,I do know on my M-F 1526 I do have to get of the seat to adjust it & most of the time I got guess to where I need it & preset it so I don't have to get off the seat & even then that doesn't work so well as far as getting it set right & your right about buying one made of quality the 1st time around ,they should last you a life time , I've been using a Woods for 30 years now. Thanks for the video
Leveling Box Assembly are additional cost. Many have opted for Hydraulic Tilt Cylinders on 3 point if they do alot of adjusting. Thanks for the comments and watching!
@@VahrenbergImplement Thank You again for your reply, But I think that would be cost prohibited for me & I like the leveling box assembly better, 1 for the cost 2 for the amount it gets used on a yearly bases & 3 it gives my M-F 50 an excuse for seat time ! & I always have work for M-F 1526 Thanks again.
@@VahrenbergImplement I have a 1735M, would like to get a leveling box GS72, should I get a tilt on the 3 points? Called dealers around me for this option, they seem surprised i ask for.
All three have there specific uses and I own a blade and box blade for a compact tractor and a land plane/grader/scraper for an 85 hp utility tractor. The grader is 8' and weighs over 1100 lbs. It's the best piece of driveway/pvt road maintenance equipment there is in my opinion. With loose material, it can carry a ton or more of material. You can push backwards with it too. Really finishes/smooths off a just graded/scraped drive nicely. I also push thicker dumps of material backwards to spread across a road bed i'm rebuilding. You can do it going forward, but in my case the tractor will be 6 to 12 inches higher on one side and so will the grader. Going backwards the tractor remains level. Picture splitting a 20 ton dump 8' wide and 12 inches thick in half twice to spread it from the center to the edges on a 10-12 wide road. One half in one direction and the other half coming back. About the only thing you can do wrong in any kind of scraping with all 3 pieces of equipment is going to fast. On a gravel road you will build in a washboard. I scrape at about 2 mph max under ideal conditions. If the road is packed and very dry, can be less than 1 mph. I smooth in reverse at 4-10 mph depending on what the road will allow safely to obtain the desired result.
RhinoAG offers 8' Grading Scraper the HDGS96: www.rhinoag.com/products/landscape-construction/blades/grading-scraper/ We just received one and need more daylight hours to shoot some video of it in action. Lots of added features and heavier duty in the HD Series.
Very informative video with honest pros and cons, Which attachment would be best for removing weeds/tall grass while also being able to grade dirt. thank you.
Removing tall weeds and grass would be best to remove or reduce height with a Rotary Cutter first then use any of these devices to grade the ground to your needs.
Thanks for the Comments but like we always say "Buy from your local dealer" he's there to support you long after the sale. That why we limit our sales area to 60 mile radius of Higginsville, MO so we can Service what we Sell.
Thank you for the video. I am interested in your thoughts on limited budget, but have uses that include much or all of what you noted? We have places that offest on a blade with angle to bring gravel back onto a drive or road. Or cutting materil near lower tree limbs and jot get the tractor caught up in the limbs. Half mile of gravel drive and road, so the grading scraper/land plane has benefits. Maintaining access paths in the woods seems like this would also apply. But moving some dirt around is less frequent, but does occur as well. Cutting new paths or evening material where accessing cut trees for firewood logs. I have been around tractors most or all my life, but only ever used a back blade, and most of that time, a too light duty blade at that. Just trying to narrow to replace the light blade with one implement we can afford. Thoughts?
The Right weight Grader Blade or Box Blade would be the MultiUse Implement. You can add or custom build end plates for Grader Blade to help move material which is the benefit of a Box Blade buy Grader Blade with End Plates still gives you ability to Tilt, Pivot and Offset. Only thing Grader Blade is limited with is scarifiers to bust up material ahead of the blade.
I'm looking to scrape then level a area of grass to turn it into a riding arena what would be the best for that? its a mix of lawn and old garden with small gravel path through the middle.
I personally have not done this but I would kill the grass with round-up or similar product and then any blade designed will scrap the dead grass and leave bare soil. Personally a Grading scraper or Box Blade can help collect the residue to remove it and help level. But a Grader Blade can cut the grass off too.
70 Series Blades are designed up to 70 PTO HP 2wd Tractors and 55 PTO HP 4wd Tractors and we have sold numerous ones of these. 70-07 is one of our most popular rear implements for these series of tractors and customers absolutely love the End Plates on this blade and no reports of any issues. Here is our video on them: ua-cam.com/video/sfCeeWOheI4/v-deo.html
A Rear Blade would be thinner and get a couple inches closer but either would work. Nice Benefit of Rear Blade is you can angle in heavy snow to get it to roll over the area cleaning or put into reverse and push snow. Here is snow video we did with a RhinoAG 70-07 Grader Blade push lots of snow: ua-cam.com/video/2loMlD0GO0o/v-deo.html
Grader blade is best if you move snow with it. Boxblade moves loads of material better, but is terrible at moving snow. Land plane is best at leveling and fluffing drives and leveling land, it won’t move snow. I like all three in my assortment of options as they all shine in their areas.
But need to make sure your tractor has enough HP to handle a wider implement. Not all tractors can handle implements wider than the tractor. But that is great information to consider too.
Blading or Grading Implements are measured more in Maximum HP, just depends on the material your working with like dirt, sand, gravel, clay and how deep and compacted. Most 5' Implements are used with SubCompacts and smaller compact tractors as the take out the tire tracks of the tractor.
@VahrenbergImplement I have an 7 ft angle blade and an 7 ft box blade. I use the angle blade to blade about a 1/4 mile of road. You can pull the rock off the edge toward the crown. It also leaves sand in a ridge . But you need both for different situations.
Have you ever used a Grading Scraper? It makes road maintenance so easy. We sell lots and lots of them for the exact reasons you mention and easier to operate.
@VahrenbergImplement I bought one at a farm auction the cutting edges were almost gone and the edges were wore into the meat. I sold it to my local township. They rebuild it, are using it to do cul-de-sac. They love it. I believe I sold it too cheap. 😆
Grader Blades do have their place and purpose. We actually did a Video on Buying Tips to Match the Best Grader Blade to your Tractor: ua-cam.com/video/aw2hFOYGbqY/v-deo.html The Number 1 Tips is Matching the Tractor with the Correct Weight Grader Blade. There are some really cheap, light weight blades or built for smaller tractors and having the correct weight is a must in selecting the best blade. Same thing goes for all Rear Mounted Implements since tractor 3 Points do not use hydraulic down pressure it's gravity (Or Implement Weight) that holds the implement on the ground. RhinoAG offers many series of blades and as they get larger the weight increases to match the tractor. But the same can be said on light weight box blades, grading scrapers, disks, tillers and more too light and not going to do a good job.
Good honest explanation what each implement can be used for!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comments and watching!
Thanks for all your great videos. Yost in Kansas owes you a commission. I bought the 1725MB box blade rotor tiller. Wish you were closer. Your videos really helped me make my decision
Glad we could help. Actually Yost gave me the idea to order that 7724S with Loader and working on closing a deal on it now. So we all help each other! That what good dealers do.
@@VahrenbergImplement Finish signing the papers with Dave today :-) tractor will be here the 15th can’t wait. I’ve known the family for 30 years and worked for them for a few years at their car dealership. Thanks again for the great videos. They really helped me make my decision to go with Massey Ferguson versus Kabota or John Deere.
Doug, I miss your Humminbird tips and tricks!
I miss them too but Family Business Comes First and too much business happening now. I'd like to just get back on the water and cast a line. Been once in 2.5 Years.
Great & informative video ! I've always used a grader blade since day one, they are the Swiss army knife of implements & I use my M-F 50 most of the time to work our road , because you don't have to get off the seat to adjust the angle of the blade , They came with a hand crank device to extend or contract the right side arm ,( upper link ) that controls the angel .It is also known as a leveling box assembly . & why new tractors don't come with this feature I don't know ,I do know on my M-F 1526 I do have to get of the seat to adjust it & most of the time I got guess to where I need it & preset it so I don't have to get off the seat & even then that doesn't work so well as far as getting it set right & your right about buying one made of quality the 1st time around ,they should last you a life time , I've been using a Woods for 30 years now. Thanks for the video
Leveling Box Assembly are additional cost. Many have opted for Hydraulic Tilt Cylinders on 3 point if they do alot of adjusting. Thanks for the comments and watching!
@@VahrenbergImplementIs there one available for a 1526 & will it work on it ? the leveling box assembly. & thank You for reply .
You could add Hydraulic Remote and Tilt Cylinder.
@@VahrenbergImplement Thank You again for your reply, But I think that would be cost prohibited for me & I like the leveling box assembly better, 1 for the cost 2 for the amount it gets used on a yearly bases & 3 it gives my M-F 50 an excuse for seat time ! & I always have work for M-F 1526 Thanks again.
@@VahrenbergImplement I have a 1735M, would like to get a leveling box GS72, should I get a tilt on the 3 points? Called dealers around me for this option, they seem surprised i ask for.
All three have there specific uses and I own a blade and box blade for a compact tractor and a land plane/grader/scraper for an 85 hp utility tractor. The grader is 8' and weighs over 1100 lbs.
It's the best piece of driveway/pvt road maintenance equipment there is in my opinion. With loose material, it can carry a ton or more of material. You can push backwards with it too. Really finishes/smooths off a just graded/scraped drive nicely.
I also push thicker dumps of material backwards to spread across a road bed i'm rebuilding. You can do it going forward, but in my case the tractor will be 6 to 12 inches higher on one side and so will the grader. Going backwards the tractor remains level. Picture splitting a 20 ton dump 8' wide and 12 inches thick in half twice to spread it from the center to the edges on a 10-12 wide road. One half in one direction and the other half coming back.
About the only thing you can do wrong in any kind of scraping with all 3 pieces of equipment is going to fast. On a gravel road you will build in a washboard. I scrape at about 2 mph max under ideal conditions. If the road is packed and very dry, can be less than 1 mph. I smooth in reverse at 4-10 mph depending on what the road will allow safely to obtain the desired result.
Great Information and thanks for sharing. Those are some really good tips to help others! And thanks for watching and commenting.
What kind or scraper do you have and where did you purchase? I am looking for an 8' also. Thanks
RhinoAG offers 8' Grading Scraper the HDGS96: www.rhinoag.com/products/landscape-construction/blades/grading-scraper/ We just received one and need more daylight hours to shoot some video of it in action. Lots of added features and heavier duty in the HD Series.
@Mike Williams We just completed video on the 8' RhinoAG HDGS96 Grading Scraper that just came in stock: ua-cam.com/video/Pa_D9IVKjls/v-deo.html
Very informative video with honest pros and cons, Which attachment would be best for removing weeds/tall grass while also being able to grade dirt. thank you.
Removing tall weeds and grass would be best to remove or reduce height with a Rotary Cutter first then use any of these devices to grade the ground to your needs.
@@VahrenbergImplement Thanks for letting me know, I’m still learning which attachments do what. I appreciate your time.
Nice one that's a nice topic to cover. All handy
Thanks, Glad it was helpful. It's a common question we get which is best for customers needs and may help others learn.
Thank you very much to bad I am in the Adirondacks of New York or I would stop in to purchase the implements that I need
Thanks for the Comments but like we always say "Buy from your local dealer" he's there to support you long after the sale. That why we limit our sales area to 60 mile radius of Higginsville, MO so we can Service what we Sell.
I got all 3 of them
That is the Best way to have the correct tool if you can justify the expense. Thanks for Watching and Commenting
Thank you for the video. I am interested in your thoughts on limited budget, but have uses that include much or all of what you noted? We have places that offest on a blade with angle to bring gravel back onto a drive or road. Or cutting materil near lower tree limbs and jot get the tractor caught up in the limbs. Half mile of gravel drive and road, so the grading scraper/land plane has benefits. Maintaining access paths in the woods seems like this would also apply. But moving some dirt around is less frequent, but does occur as well. Cutting new paths or evening material where accessing cut trees for firewood logs. I have been around tractors most or all my life, but only ever used a back blade, and most of that time, a too light duty blade at that. Just trying to narrow to replace the light blade with one implement we can afford. Thoughts?
The Right weight Grader Blade or Box Blade would be the MultiUse Implement. You can add or custom build end plates for Grader Blade to help move material which is the benefit of a Box Blade buy Grader Blade with End Plates still gives you ability to Tilt, Pivot and Offset. Only thing Grader Blade is limited with is scarifiers to bust up material ahead of the blade.
Thank you, you helped me decide what I needed. Great video
Glad We could help!
Good demo. Tnx from Holland
Thanks for watching! and Commenting!
I'm looking to scrape then level a area of grass to turn it into a riding arena what would be the best for that? its a mix of lawn and old garden with small gravel path through the middle.
I personally have not done this but I would kill the grass with round-up or similar product and then any blade designed will scrap the dead grass and leave bare soil. Personally a Grading scraper or Box Blade can help collect the residue to remove it and help level. But a Grader Blade can cut the grass off too.
Great information! Thanks much for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
Good, educational video. The end plates on that 7007 don't seem beefy enough. How do they hold up in really rocky or rough conditions?
70 Series Blades are designed up to 70 PTO HP 2wd Tractors and 55 PTO HP 4wd Tractors and we have sold numerous ones of these. 70-07 is one of our most popular rear implements for these series of tractors and customers absolutely love the End Plates on this blade and no reports of any issues. Here is our video on them: ua-cam.com/video/sfCeeWOheI4/v-deo.html
What about for dragging snow. To pull snow away from tight places. Box blade or rear blade. Thanks Mate...
A Rear Blade would be thinner and get a couple inches closer but either would work. Nice Benefit of Rear Blade is you can angle in heavy snow to get it to roll over the area cleaning or put into reverse and push snow. Here is snow video we did with a RhinoAG 70-07 Grader Blade push lots of snow: ua-cam.com/video/2loMlD0GO0o/v-deo.html
Grader blade is best if you move snow with it. Boxblade moves loads of material better, but is terrible at moving snow. Land plane is best at leveling and fluffing drives and leveling land, it won’t move snow. I like all three in my assortment of options as they all shine in their areas.
For some all 3 are beneficial just depends on what your needs and budget allows. Thanks for the testimonial and comments
Does rhino make sub-compact blades just like these?
RhinoAG 35 Series works on the Massey Ferguson GC Series. Here is our video on them: ua-cam.com/video/LCP56xENoVg/v-deo.html
I need this video.
Glad it helped. Thanks for the comments
Get a blade wider than your tractor if you want to cover your tracks.
But need to make sure your tractor has enough HP to handle a wider implement. Not all tractors can handle implements wider than the tractor. But that is great information to consider too.
Yes. You can look back and see what it’s doing. I got a 4 foot box. And regret it
Good information. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great info thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Someone should make an add on grading scraper to attach under the box blade. I may just do that.
A Box Blade does have a Scraper edge it's just fixed in position.
whats the minimum HP for them
Blading or Grading Implements are measured more in Maximum HP, just depends on the material your working with like dirt, sand, gravel, clay and how deep and compacted. Most 5' Implements are used with SubCompacts and smaller compact tractors as the take out the tire tracks of the tractor.
I believe you need a box blade and a angle blade.
Depends on the tasks you have to do. But those are great choices for many of the chores on farms.
@VahrenbergImplement I have an 7 ft angle blade and an 7 ft box blade. I use the angle blade to blade about a 1/4 mile of road. You can pull the rock off the edge toward the crown. It also leaves sand in a ridge . But you need both for different situations.
Have you ever used a Grading Scraper? It makes road maintenance so easy. We sell lots and lots of them for the exact reasons you mention and easier to operate.
@VahrenbergImplement I bought one at a farm auction the cutting edges were almost gone and the edges were wore into the meat. I sold it to my local township. They rebuild it, are using it to do cul-de-sac. They love it. I believe I sold it too cheap. 😆
Grader blade isn't worth a shit. It's not heavy enough. If it was built heavy and strong, it would be great.
Grader Blades do have their place and purpose. We actually did a Video on Buying Tips to Match the Best Grader Blade to your Tractor: ua-cam.com/video/aw2hFOYGbqY/v-deo.html The Number 1 Tips is Matching the Tractor with the Correct Weight Grader Blade. There are some really cheap, light weight blades or built for smaller tractors and having the correct weight is a must in selecting the best blade. Same thing goes for all Rear Mounted Implements since tractor 3 Points do not use hydraulic down pressure it's gravity (Or Implement Weight) that holds the implement on the ground. RhinoAG offers many series of blades and as they get larger the weight increases to match the tractor. But the same can be said on light weight box blades, grading scrapers, disks, tillers and more too light and not going to do a good job.
@@VahrenbergImplement I actually have all 3