I’m a spark by trade and I’m very impressed at the job you’ve done. It’s a lot better than the work I come across on the daily. You might struggle getting all them alarm cables down that 20mm tube tho, get a fish tape and some lube. Well in mate. Also at least the rcds in the board are type a rather than type ac
The work you’ve put in is writ salient on your hands. There’s some immense work that I’m not jealous of. I installed a very rough home network in a single storey house - and that was hard enough. Great effort. Please look after your hands - tools of your trade. +1 for the keystones that don’t require tools. Made things a lot easier.
There is one thing you did miss the opportunity of doing, but I’m not sure how worth it it actually would have been. I personally would have installed a 16 amp commando socket just to allow future expansion but I would also have connected up a clean earth system just because it’s recommended
Speakon, not the best solution. This is very much for PA systems and not home audio. Considering you were trying to keep your other wires close to the wall by angling the down, you are doing completely the opposite with speakon 😵💫😵💫
Good idea going for scolmore accessories because they’re one of few manufacturers that sell absolutely everything so you’ll never struggle to get a match no matter how obscure an accessories you want
I love how much forward planning you have for everything. Reading white papers to confirm solutions! Inspiring! I just wish I had half the patience you show in all your videos.
This appears to be a garage if so I would highly highly recommend with a network rack even just using wood studs to build some kind of bars around it in the corner doing something like that because if someone breaks in the garage door which is generally not particularly hard Delays their access to it such that you could trigger things like any automatically en and have things shut down safely in case they cut power
I literally swapped my straight keystone plates to the angled euro plates. Acter titti g 2 i tossed the shuttered ones and got shutterless. Makes for less messing about when you are trying to reach around furniture to plug in networking
Hey Camaron, Just wanted to swing by and tell you that your shielding is a bit wrong I believe. Connecting the earth to both ends of your cable will be a huge source of ground loop interference. Basically your great shielding is providing a path for small currents to flow to earth. Instead it's usually recommended to only ground shielding on one side of the cable. Hopefully that helps and might explain some slow speeds you can potentially see with this setup. Great work otherwise, loving the videos
Ground loops are only likely to be an issue if there is a different ground potential between different ends of the cables. This is more of an issue on shielded runs between buildings or ares of buildings with separate electrical installations. In this case everything is bonded together so will be at the same ground potential. In the rare event that a ground loop did occur, all you'd need to do is use an unshielded patch lead between the wall jack and the connected device.
You are right. If the appliance is connected to ground via its power cord and if the Ethernet jack in the device was connected to that ground you will most likely have a potential difference and caused a ground loop.
@@RogierYou I think so too. Long wire rund compared to short ones on the 230v net in addition to flaky AC/DC converters will almost never result in the same GND or earth potential. However Cameron makes a big point in that most premade patch cables are UTP. In that case this is a perfectlyvfine setup!
RCBOs are quite expensive compared to regular fuses with an RCD that covers multiple fuses. Also good with a dedicated circuit for the rack, don't run anything more of that. Also a dedicated circuit for the fridge is good. I guess you don't experience negative temperatures, but if you do a dedicated circuit and RCBO for the heating/water is also good.
The only thing I found disturbing in this video, I have no idea what camera you are using to film these videos with, turn off auto zoom on the camera. To film your videos, take the camera outside, set the camera on a tripod, and after turning off auto focus, focus your camera at something far away, a tree or car a block away works. Now as long as you never touch your focus, any zoom level, everything is in focus.
One feature that might make the Brother printer even better for networking would be PoE charging 😂 Imagine… you’re on a job site and it’s run out of charge… worry not! Just plug it into any available network jack connected to a PoE switch and charge it up without having to bring a charger with you Anyway, an incredible video that goes above and beyond some of the most impressive other homelabs I’ve seen.
5:20 tiny question. Since it is mainly for a coms rack. Why dint u just install a 32amp or 63a c-plug directly just to have it there as future proofing and then just, fuse of a second pair going to the alarm panel or even better just run another set of wires. my guess would be incoming feed but just cirious 24:14 One note u can get these as NL4 as u have which is 4 wire, or NL2 which is 2 wire. And they are exchangeable to a degree. u can run an NL4 plug in an NL2 and u can run an NL2 plug into an NL4 plate, U would just loose that second pair of signal. Actualy did this when i ran new subwoofer feeds from my rack cuz they were out of NL2's. Granted im also using PA grade amp and Subwoofers but the point still the same. Althou hey the install is comming along lookin nice.
Hi Cameron, Thanks for these videos. When you showed the metal conduit in the beginning, my first thought was are there any issues with you doing your own electrical work? Low power stuff like network cabling wouldn't be an issue, however high power 230VAC? Why did you choose U/FTP cables? Are any of your runs greater than 55m, which is the max for Cat 6 to reliably achieve 10 GB? Will you be giving a run down of all the costs you have incurred?
Great work. Love seeing the individual parts and standards in each country. Here (Australia/NZ) wall fixtures always come in a fascia and fixture combo. You would terminate and screw the fixture in (again as you mentioned not too close to the plasterboard, especially in older houses the board can be a bit warped so you need a bit of space for the fascia to clip to), then the fascia clips on easily. Surprised this isn’t the norm in more countries. Where we lack though is modular faceplates. We have a modular system of keystone-type modules and cutouts, which are roughly the size of network keystone jacks. They are extremely popular for switches, a very common use is to install a power socket and switch combo, or even a power socket and antenna combo. From what I have seen there are two major vendors, Clipsal and PDL which provide similar but incompatible keystone faceplates and modules. The cutout profile varies between vendors so you do have to do your research if you want to mix and match. I haven’t seen any low-profile versions either which is a shame, as the recessed faceplates look fantastic on the wall in your video.
To do EMT conduit here is the USA you don't need extra tools besides a EMT Bender, hack saw or you can get a Dewalt or another brand bandsaw or sawsaw and emt reamer. The expense is the battery powered saws and EMT and the metal boxes emt connectors and supplies for installation... the EMT reamer is on some of the #kline tools used for the emt connectors. Really just a slotted screw driver and reamer in one. You all have to use rigid conduit and have to thread your pipes with a pipe threader by hand unless you have a very expensive tool for rigid pipe threading.
I would love to see your cost breakdown and your hours of labor. Your setup looks like it has the same elements of that of a professional automation service company. I would like to see if your “sweat equity” is in line with what a pro automation company charges. Also have you thought about shades in your home? That will round out your smart home.
I've seen those weird BT sockets, what even are those? Is there a possibility for those to be replaced with RJ45 sockets? How are those connected? I would love to see a video like this great one that explains it.
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Stp shielded twisted pair it's actually tighter twisted then utp unshielded twisted pair
I LOVe your long format videos. Probably better than sitting down and watching a movie.
It's better than watching Pinocchio.
I’m a spark by trade and I’m very impressed at the job you’ve done. It’s a lot better than the work I come across on the daily. You might struggle getting all them alarm cables down that 20mm tube tho, get a fish tape and some lube.
Well in mate.
Also at least the rcds in the board are type a rather than type ac
Lube solves everything. 😂
Do you work in IT, Electrician, builder or something? You know loads of stuff about loads of stuff.
This series about your new house is absolutely brilliant! Always makes a day better having a lovely long video to sit down and enjoy!
You either fought a bear or a cat, those battle scars can mean either lol
The work you’ve put in is writ salient on your hands.
There’s some immense work that I’m not jealous of. I installed a very rough home network in a single storey house - and that was hard enough. Great effort.
Please look after your hands - tools of your trade.
+1 for the keystones that don’t require tools. Made things a lot easier.
There is one thing you did miss the opportunity of doing, but I’m not sure how worth it it actually would have been. I personally would have installed a 16 amp commando socket just to allow future expansion but I would also have connected up a clean earth system just because it’s recommended
Speakon, not the best solution. This is very much for PA systems and not home audio. Considering you were trying to keep your other wires close to the wall by angling the down, you are doing completely the opposite with speakon 😵💫😵💫
Can always use 90 degree Speakon connectors on the cables plugging in to the wall?
Cameron has really helped me get a very nice setup at my home
The 2 week wait is finally over! Thanks Cameron!
Good idea going for scolmore accessories because they’re one of few manufacturers that sell absolutely everything so you’ll never struggle to get a match no matter how obscure an accessories you want
I love how much forward planning you have for everything. Reading white papers to confirm solutions! Inspiring! I just wish I had half the patience you show in all your videos.
This appears to be a garage if so I would highly highly recommend with a network rack even just using wood studs to build some kind of bars around it in the corner doing something like that because if someone breaks in the garage door which is generally not particularly hard Delays their access to it such that you could trigger things like any automatically en and have things shut down safely in case they cut power
I literally swapped my straight keystone plates to the angled euro plates. Acter titti g 2 i tossed the shuttered ones and got shutterless. Makes for less messing about when you are trying to reach around furniture to plug in networking
Hey Camaron, Just wanted to swing by and tell you that your shielding is a bit wrong I believe. Connecting the earth to both ends of your cable will be a huge source of ground loop interference. Basically your great shielding is providing a path for small currents to flow to earth. Instead it's usually recommended to only ground shielding on one side of the cable. Hopefully that helps and might explain some slow speeds you can potentially see with this setup.
Great work otherwise, loving the videos
Ground loops are only likely to be an issue if there is a different ground potential between different ends of the cables. This is more of an issue on shielded runs between buildings or ares of buildings with separate electrical installations. In this case everything is bonded together so will be at the same ground potential. In the rare event that a ground loop did occur, all you'd need to do is use an unshielded patch lead between the wall jack and the connected device.
@@camerongray1515 nice work, I would've assumed you had your reasoning, just wanted to know. Can't wait for the next episode! 😎
You are right.
If the appliance is connected to ground via its power cord and if the Ethernet jack in the device was connected to that ground you will most likely have a potential difference and caused a ground loop.
@@RogierYou I think so too. Long wire rund compared to short ones on the 230v net in addition to flaky AC/DC converters will almost never result in the same GND or earth potential. However Cameron makes a big point in that most premade patch cables are UTP. In that case this is a perfectlyvfine setup!
@@lolimpol yep it’s unlikely that the Ethernet jack on the printer will be grounded :-)
thankyou for the level of detail.
RCBOs are quite expensive compared to regular fuses with an RCD that covers multiple fuses. Also good with a dedicated circuit for the rack, don't run anything more of that. Also a dedicated circuit for the fridge is good. I guess you don't experience negative temperatures, but if you do a dedicated circuit and RCBO for the heating/water is also good.
Hager ones are, but the likes of fusebox and click are very affordable now. About a tenner ex vat
Haven’t fit a split load db in years, not worth the hassle
The only thing I found disturbing in this video, I have no idea what camera you are using to film these videos with, turn off auto zoom on the camera. To film your videos, take the camera outside, set the camera on a tripod, and after turning off auto focus, focus your camera at something far away, a tree or car a block away works. Now as long as you never touch your focus, any zoom level, everything is in focus.
One feature that might make the Brother printer even better for networking would be PoE charging 😂
Imagine… you’re on a job site and it’s run out of charge… worry not! Just plug it into any available network jack connected to a PoE switch and charge it up without having to bring a charger with you
Anyway, an incredible video that goes above and beyond some of the most impressive other homelabs I’ve seen.
Excellent video! This brings back memories of when I started wiring my home with network/AV/coax cables back in the late 90s.
5:20 tiny question. Since it is mainly for a coms rack. Why dint u just install a 32amp or 63a c-plug directly just to have it there as future proofing and then just, fuse of a second pair going to the alarm panel or even better just run another set of wires. my guess would be incoming feed but just cirious
24:14 One note u can get these as NL4 as u have which is 4 wire, or NL2 which is 2 wire. And they are exchangeable to a degree. u can run an NL4 plug in an NL2 and u can run an NL2 plug into an NL4 plate, U would just loose that second pair of signal. Actualy did this when i ran new subwoofer feeds from my rack cuz they were out of NL2's. Granted im also using PA grade amp and Subwoofers but the point still the same.
Althou hey the install is comming along lookin nice.
Hi Cameron,
Thanks for these videos. When you showed the metal conduit in the beginning, my first thought was are there any issues with you doing your own electrical work?
Low power stuff like network cabling wouldn't be an issue, however high power 230VAC?
Why did you choose U/FTP cables? Are any of your runs greater than 55m, which is the max for Cat 6 to reliably achieve 10 GB?
Will you be giving a run down of all the costs you have incurred?
Great work. Love seeing the individual parts and standards in each country. Here (Australia/NZ) wall fixtures always come in a fascia and fixture combo. You would terminate and screw the fixture in (again as you mentioned not too close to the plasterboard, especially in older houses the board can be a bit warped so you need a bit of space for the fascia to clip to), then the fascia clips on easily. Surprised this isn’t the norm in more countries. Where we lack though is modular faceplates. We have a modular system of keystone-type modules and cutouts, which are roughly the size of network keystone jacks. They are extremely popular for switches, a very common use is to install a power socket and switch combo, or even a power socket and antenna combo. From what I have seen there are two major vendors, Clipsal and PDL which provide similar but incompatible keystone faceplates and modules. The cutout profile varies between vendors so you do have to do your research if you want to mix and match. I haven’t seen any low-profile versions either which is a shame, as the recessed faceplates look fantastic on the wall in your video.
Why didn't you change it to have individual RCD protection, here in Aus it's compulsory for every circuit to be individually RCD protected now.
To do EMT conduit here is the USA you don't need extra tools besides a EMT Bender, hack saw or you can get a Dewalt or another brand bandsaw or sawsaw and emt reamer. The expense is the battery powered saws and EMT and the metal boxes emt connectors and supplies for installation... the EMT reamer is on some of the #kline tools used for the emt connectors. Really just a slotted screw driver and reamer in one. You all have to use rigid conduit and have to thread your pipes with a pipe threader by hand unless you have a very expensive tool for rigid pipe threading.
I would love to see your cost breakdown and your hours of labor. Your setup looks like it has the same elements of that of a professional automation service company. I would like to see if your “sweat equity” is in line with what a pro automation company charges. Also have you thought about shades in your home? That will round out your smart home.
I've seen those weird BT sockets, what even are those? Is there a possibility for those to be replaced with RJ45 sockets? How are those connected? I would love to see a video like this great one that explains it.
these videos are amazing...Im learning loads but youre giving me too any ideas....my wife isnt going to be happy
I’ve been waiting a while. Absolutely loving ur series. Currently upgrading the network in my studio
It's Friday evening, I have a beer, some nuts and over an hour of networking installs. Perfect. 🙂
Could you make your own thing for the speakon with a double blanking plate? Might work if you take your time!
MoCA adapters would let you use double screened coax to carry TV signals as well as the Broadband.
1:05:15 is the cat6a ground wire also providing an earth for the faceplate and back box?
Friday night. Cameron for 1 + hour while rebuilding my server rack.
Awesome vid. Where did you find those angled Rj45 modules? Thanx!
Get in. That’s Friday night sorted - a beer and lonnng video. Keep up the good work.
Use the Neutrik MFD mounting frames to avoid faffing with the M3 nuts.
Just use a 20mm galv coupler to space dual socket to fcu. Great video
Did you build your house? If so, did you have the option to have the wiring done while it was being built?
Great series Cameron 👏 I just moved into same house so it a must watch, keep up great work
Good call on the Speakon connectors over binding posts. Nice job.
Thank you for being so in-depth, fantastic video!
I learned a few things from this video, thanks for making and sharing
16mm is excessive for a functional earth.
Why did you go for shielded CAT cables?
Am I the only one with no subtitles available?
Great job mate
🔥🔥🔥