THIS IS THE BEST VIDEO ON THIS SUBLJECT ON UA-cam. YOU DO AN EXCLLENT JOB OF EXPLAINING AS YOU GO! I WAS THINKING ABOUT DOINIGN IT MYSELF, BUT I DON'T HAVE THE" TORQUE WRENCH ADAPTER" THAT IS APPARENTLY NEEDED TO TORQUE DOWN THE CAMBOLT.
Thank you for watching and for commenting. I'm not sure what "Adapter" you are thinking of. A regular torque wrench with a 14mm socket should be fine. All you need in order to steady the camshaft while you torque the bolt is a crescent wrench.
Thank you sir, totally awesome video. I just did a head gasket and head bolts on my 03 Cary with 2AZ-FE engine. It went great and car runs smooth except for the 1 second rattle at cold start up. It didn't use to do that before I worked on it. So I believe when I was manhandling the intake camshaft I must have accidentally locked it. From the video I can see that happening as I moved the camshaft off, cleaned it, put it on, the head, then off before installing the head and back on. Very easy to lock it. I will have to do the process, I believe I can get it out without taking the timing cover off.
If you lock the camshaft, this is intended to eliminate the startup rattle. A locked camshaft does not rattle, this is what the lock is for. A locked camshaft will give a P1349 code or it will fail the stall test at idle.
For the 2AZ-FE it is suggested that you install the gear onto the camshaft in the unlock position, then torque down the gear, then lock the gear, then install in the car.
In another video, for the 2gr-fe, I have shown that the startup rattle can be due to low oil pressure at startup. Without sufficient oil pressure, the ECU cannot keep control of the gear, and it rattles.
@@Merryfrankster_ Thank you sir again. I went ahead and bought a new gear and installed it per the Toyota service manual. Pretty much as you described. Removed the old one, put on the new one, put the bolt on and hand tightened, unlocked it, torqued it to spec, then locked it. I put it in and buttoned up all the parts. The VVT solenoid is Denso new. When I start the engine it fire immediately, timing is good, but now I get constant rattle from the gear. Got P0010, I went ahead for kicks and replaced the VVT solenoid and no change, rattles. I am not sure what's going on. I am thinking the new part, Japanese part but not Denso, maybe bad, I did something wrong. It acts as it's not getting oil pressure. Anyway, I have the valve cover off, and the chain is good and not rattling, The tensioner is on and tight I double checked it. Will install the old one back in and see what happens. Good thing is I can get this motor apart in 20 minutes LOL
The point is - and I am sorry if I did not make this clear - that it is not possible to torque the bolt to the correct bolt with the gear locked. And when you put it in the car and it unlocks - as it does during operation - it will not function correctly, and it will make noises, and possibly self-destruct.
Starting 09, Corollas have a different 1.8-liter motor, 2zr-fe, not 1zz-fe. This video applies only for 1zz-fe. You can check whether the gear is locked or unlocked when you place it on the camshaft. If it is unlocked, it will turn. It it is locked, it will not turn. If it is locked, unlock it before you tighten the camshaft bolt.
Do I need a new vvt gear, if I installed it in locked position and packed up my engine and drove it too? Is my vvt gear damaged and it won’t work if I again open it and follow the correct procedure of installation??? Please guide…very worried.
If you do not separate the vvt gear from the camshaft then there is no reason to do this procedure. If the camshaft and vvt gear have been separated from each other then you must unlock the gear to install it.
Just want to ask, why the need to unlock the vvti gear ? If I were to remove the 4 bolts to clean the insides, do I need to unlock it before removing the 4 bolts?
You can disassemble the gear locked or unlocked, makes no difference. Just make sure that when you reassemble the gear and go to put the gear on the camshaft, before you tighten the center bolt, the gear should be in the unlocked state. After you tighten the center bolt to spec, you can lock the gear. If you tighten the bolt while the gear is locked, this will lead to problems.
What about the 2GR-FSE? My exhaust gear went bad and I want to replace both exhaust gears on both banks. Do I need to make sure they're unlocked before I torque them? Thank you!
I did a rebuild on a 1zzfe, non D motor and noticed it never had the get-up-and-go of the 1zzfed. I understand they are quite different motors and why but I don't think the vvti ever engaged after the rebuild. I know we didn't unlock the cam when we placed it back in, but I wasn't sure if unlocking it before putting it in matters. When you place the cam back in the head does it need to be unlocked or locked? I see that it's supposed to unlock as you've said in the description. Also what would go wrong with the inside to prevent it from unlocking? Would it be best to disassemble it on a rebuild to clean the interior and make sure it unlocks properly before placing it in? Just picked up a 1zzfed from a friend today, going to replace the 1zzfe because it began leaking too much oil. Probably won't be taking the fed apart as I'm on a pretty tight time crunch.
Lots of questions here. Let's unpack this. First of all the difference between fe and fed is not what you imagine. It is less than the difference that the weight of a full tank of gas makes to the acceleration of the vehicle. If your rebuild feels sluggish there could be many possible causes. Check the static compression, and the leakdown test. If the rings are not gapped correctly, or the valves do not seat correctly, there will be diminished power. Now with respect to vvt-i. If the gear is not unlocking in operation, it will most likely trigger a P1349. If you do not have a P1349, and you suspect the gear is not unlocking, then apply 12v to the OCV at idle. The engine should stall or come close to stalling. This means the vvt is unlocking and functioning. If idle does not change when you power the OCV, it could mean that you have a bad OCV. This would also trigger a code most of the time. As an alternative, do an active test of the vvti with Techstream. What? You don't have Techstream? Then you have no business working on a Toyota. When you reassemble the camshaft. As far as I am concerned, it makes no difference whether you do it with the gear locked or unlocked. Just maks sure that the registration pin goes into the rounded slot. Either way, you will have to lock the gear to set the timing chain. Always, always, always, verify the function of the gear using compressed air (as shown in this video) before you re-install the camshaft in the car. The gear returns to the lock position every single time you shut down the engine. If it did not, then the gear would clatter and rattle horribly on startup. So locking and unlocking is part of normal operation, not just something you do with the camshafts out. Hope this helps. Feel free to follow up.
replaced the ocv but swapped back after not noticing a difference. The motor just never really felt like it had the power of the stock motor I had previously. I believe it was still lower by at least 10-15 hp than a fed. Stock is 140hp vs 125hp from factory. I guess I answered my own question. That difference plus a few more hp from an aftermarket exhaust feels quite a bit different in a 2000lb vehicle. I know that the fed has lightened rods and a handful of other tiny differences. they're basically identical as far as everything else. The rings were fine, the cams and valves were all within spec when reassembled, never had a p1349 during the entire operation of the motor. I did have misfire cylinder4 code but this is with aftermarket headers and exhaust where the bungs are only on 2 of the header tubes instead of a stock mr2's precat headers where they flow in 2 at a time. Anyway, after my first ever rebuild using youtube and a handful of manuals I got over 30k miles and 4~ years use on the motor and quite a bit of track time. ($100 used with probably 200k miles) and a $300 cheap rebuild kit. The only reason I'm replacing it is because of the oil leaking, it's probably worth another rebuild or at least parts. I guess I'll look into techstream options for future endevors.
@@PhonePhone-sf8te I'm very familiar with the Fed...the difference between the Fe and fed is ...the Fed has threaded block for passenger cv axle carrier bearing and it has larger intake /exhaust valves and 8 hole piston skirts for oil return from cylinders...the con rods are the same... please don't double guess this information..I have had both of them apart a few times.. hope this clears things up
@@Mikegastaldo Hey Mike, I figured all of that out a few months ago when I was doing my rebuild. The piston skirt holes you're talking about are referring at the oil return rings? Basically all 1zz models before 2003 (from my experience) all have 4 holes per cylinder and they're tiny. In this rebuild I just did, I added a 3rd hole(on each side) and enlarged all 3 holes of the stock pistons. The rebuild went successful and I had it on the track right after breaking it in. I have a slight leak out of the front main seal, and I'll have to deal with it soon.
I got a timing chain rebuild kit. Came with exhaust sprocket, lower chain sprocket, oil pump, chain tensioner, chain guides, and a new chain.however it didn’t come with a vvti gear. I set the timing and ran the car and it jumped timing .I’m suspecting it’s the vvti gear because it’s the only thing that didn’t came in the kit. I noticed my vvti gear was in the lock position after it jumped timing. Do I have to unlock and relock the vvti gear when I set timing ? And should I test my OCV?
Ouch I hope there was no engine damage. With that said - the VVT gear will always go to the lock position when you stop the engine. The only time you need to unlock the VVT gear is when you install the gear onto the camshaft. It must be in the unlocked position when you torque the center bolt. After you torque the center bolt, you can let the gear go to the locked position. A common reason for jumping timing is a chain tensioner issue specifically if the tensioner does not release from its retracted position.
@@Merryfrankster_ oh okay, I didn’t remove the gear when I was setting the timing so I guess there’s no need to do that? I used a screw driver to unhook the chain tensioner. I guess there could be some engine damage.
@@noelhcarpio1551 If you have not removed the gear from the camshaft then there is no need to unlock it. If there is engine damage you will know it right away - some valves will be bent and the starter will refuse to crank and you will not be able to turn the crankshaft by hand with a wrench.
@@dannysouliotis It's normal for the vvt gear to be locked when you shut off the engine. Why do you want to unlock it? There is no reason to unlock the vvt gear unless it has been disassembled from the camshaft.
@@dannysouliotis I have no idea what you've done to your car, or how you've done it. You should never turn the engine backward, and you should never turn the engine by the camshaft.
@@Merryfrankster_I kept getting a bank1 oxygen mix code- cylinder 1 had 0 clearance on intake valve - changed bucket - after reinstalled cams and chain - turned motor CCW to release chain tensioner- used vvt bolt to turn it. Been getting 1349 since.Installed new solenoid cleaned screen new oil and filter blew out all oil passages to vvt gear from cam .
Let me check if I get this right: Thing is, I have bought new camshafts and new intake sprocket (QRP). I installed the sprocket on the camshaft, no problems aligning with the pin to the hole, but I didn't check the operation of the unlocking. Should I take the camshaft out of the engine again, to verify that the unlocking works? When installing the camshaft and chain, the sprocket needs to be locked, right? It is enough that the unlocking actually happens when I blow air into the hole?
I don't know how many times this has been repeated here in these comments and elsewhere on the World Wide Web. When you install the new vvt gear on the camshaft, first snug the bolt by hand. Then, unlock the gear, using air. If it is already unlocked, you don't have to do this. Then, tighten the bolt to the correct torque. Now you can do whatever you want with the gear. But if you tighten the bolt while the gear is locked, then the gear might not work correctly. You can put the camshaft into the engine with the gear locked or unlocked, it does not matter. But you must have the gear unlocked when you tighten the bolt. Capische? Get it? Feel free to ask if you don't. You can take your camshaft out of your engine, or not, it's up to you. This procedure is specific to a certain range of years and models with specific engines.. It does not apply to newer models with different engines, because the gears are constructed differently and don't need to be unlocked for installation. That is one of the reasons why there is a lot of confusion about this.
@@Merryfrankster_ Thank you for the reply. So, just because I am a little bit thick and need everything with teaspoons: As soon as it is unlocked, I should remove the sprocket from the camshaft, and only then, maintaining it in the unlocked position, reinstall it and tighten to the correct torque? And then, when it is installed, it should be possible to wiggle it a few degrees?
@@torew01 Are you really a complete idiot who needs everything repeated to him a million times, or you just pretend, because you enjoy wasting other people's time.
After you tighten it while unlocked, I guarantee you that it will lock itself again when you go to put it in the car. But if somehow you manage to keep it unlocked when you put it back in the car, that's fine too. Either way is fine. THE ONLY IMPORTANT THING THAT NOBODY HERE SEEMS TO UNDERSTAND IS IT MUST BE UNLOCKED WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE CENTER BOLT. How many times have I answered this question already.
Per mettere l'ingranaggio sull'albero a camme, l'ingranaggio deve essere sbloccato. Quindi applichi la coppia corretta. Successivamente, puoi bloccare l'ingranaggio e mettere l'albero a camme sul motore. L'ingranaggio deve essere sbloccato quando lo si installa sull'albero a camme. Non importa se è bloccato o sbloccato quando si installa l'albero a camme sul motore. Spero che questa spiegazione ti aiuti.
Hi Mr Frank good day, cheers from Brazil I have some questions I need to clean mine because is so dirty inside, can you help me to see if my mind is right? first need to remove the entirely camshaft off the header / the gear is locked on this moment Before dissasembly off the gear it need to unlock so if wont tear the pin apart With the pulley off the camshaft i can remove the 4 bolts on the pulley on the locked or unlocked position Then dissasembly and clean all the pulley and assembly again, the unlock and install it on the camshaft Then lock it and install on the header so i can set the timing correctly Is that right? Sorry for my bad english, i am a Brazilian
@@Merryfrankster_ and another question mr frank, i dissasembled the pulley from the camshaft without unlock it like you said and it all goed right, so i gonna clean it all, the pulley is full off carbon oil inside off it But i have a question, can i mount it on the unlocked position and after mount it on the camshaft? Because i dont have a compressor here in my house
@@DragonFoust Yes, sure, you can mount it in the unlocked position, no problem. Just make sure it stays unlocked. It is always trying to lock itself. .
In summary, you must do the unlock anytime you have removed the gear from the camshaft, and torque the center nut with the gear unlocked. If you torque the nut while the gear is locked, the gear will malfunction.
@@Merryfrankster_ Oh wow, Okay. So basically a good plan would be to remove the camshaft with the gear intact from the engine, apply pressure to unlock and then remove the gear, transfer the gear to a new camshaft and tighten. Lock the gear again and reinstall? Thanks for your help.
@@newtypetommy 1. Remove the camshaft from engine 2. Remove the gear from camshaft 3. Install gear on new camshaft - snug 4. Unlock gear 5. Torque 6. Install in engine Once unlocked, the gear wants to snap back to locked position. It is difficult to handle it and keep it unlocked. You will find this out yourself, I am sure.
Sorry for the dumb question but i cannot understand very well. I recentely Had to do the headgasket on my Mr2 spyder, while taking apart the head i took out the intake camshaft WITHOUT removing the vvt gear from the cam itself (so it was "all in one piece"and was surely locked) After replacing all the components, i put the intake cam and not bothered with the unlock procedure (as i was not aware of this) and on first start i heard a grinding noise that went away in a matter of seconds.... so here is my question: Should i have unlocked the gear? while re-doing the timing on the 1zz engine, does the gear has to stay locked or unlocked? i'm asking because my car now seems to not pull as strong as it did and recently threw me a DTC P1346
The gear must be unlocked ONLY if you remove the gear from the camshaft. You unlock the gear to tighten the center bolt ONLY when replacing the gear on the camshaft. If you did not separate the gear from the camshaft there is no need to unlock it. The noise you heard was possibly due to low oil pressure. On first start after reassembling the engine, always remove the fuel pump fuse and crank without firing the engine, in order to circulate the oil, then put the fuse back in and start the engine normally.
Put the gear on the shaft. Unlock. Torque the bolt. After you torque the bolt you can lock the gear. It does not matter after that whether it is locked or unlocked.
@@Merryfrankster_ Do I need a new vvt gear, if I installed it in locked position and packed up my engine and drove it too? Is my vvt gear damaged and it won’t work if I again open it and follow the correct procedure of installation??? Please guide…very worried.
@@shahabshah8067 you should be able to remove it, unlock it, torque it, and put it back. If you want to play it safe, buy a new vvt gear, it's only $100 or so brand new.
@@Merryfrankster_ what about the exhaust vvt gear, does it has a locking mechanism similar to the intake gear and do I have to follow the same procedure for it?
ok so this is to loosen and tighten the center bolt that holds the gear to the cam. Then after its tightened to spec it needs to be locked for re-installation. Got scared for a second
It sounds like you have it right. There is no need to unlock the cam gear, unless you have separated it from the camshaft. Then it needs to be unlocked for correct re-installation. As shown.
Like nearly every engine known to man (without a dry sump), the 2zz will have oil starvation issues in high-G turns, i.e. sticky tires, high speed, tight turns on track. Other than that, it is very reliable. It has rocker shafts, which means it cannot fling its rockers like other engines with free-floating rockers. The variable lift mechanism is dependable, and so is the variable valve timing, so long as you keep your oil clean. If you want to put forced induction on it, I would suggest that you use forged pistons, but the piston rods themselves are forged from factory.
@@DimoS... The wiped camshaft happen because people neglect to replace the o-ring that seals between the valve cover and the head. This causes leakage of oil and insufficient flow to the squirters. Check the valve clearance and if the clearance is out of spec, adjust it. This is normal for any engine of that era, before hydraulic valve lash adjusters.
@Merryfrankster_ mate thank you very much!!! I appreciate it you are the only person who answered me in this mystery with the wiped camshaft, why does it happen in 90% of lotuses? and not in toyota? Also, what oil do you recommend for this engine? I run mobil1 0w40 fs because it has 1100ppm zddp do you have any other suggestions? (I've lived here for 9 months and it's over 30°c )
It is suggested, if you are replacing the camshafts, that you must unlock the gear before torquing down the camshaft center bolt, otherwise the gear may be damaged and it does not function correctly in the car. This is a peculiarity for some engines by Toyota, not all, and it is the subject of several Technical Service Bulletins from the manufacturer. Sorry I thought that everyone knew this already.
Disagree. Half the viewers are smarter than the other half. There is about one quarter of the viewers who are absolutely dumb. They would be confused by 2 + 2 = 4.
Fantastic advice. Tried all the other bs videos to no avail. Your the man.
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
THIS IS THE BEST VIDEO ON THIS SUBLJECT ON UA-cam. YOU DO AN EXCLLENT JOB OF EXPLAINING AS YOU GO! I WAS THINKING ABOUT DOINIGN IT MYSELF, BUT I DON'T HAVE THE" TORQUE WRENCH ADAPTER" THAT IS APPARENTLY NEEDED TO TORQUE DOWN THE CAMBOLT.
Thank you for watching and for commenting. I'm not sure what "Adapter" you are thinking of. A regular torque wrench with a 14mm socket should be fine. All you need in order to steady the camshaft while you torque the bolt is a crescent wrench.
@@Merryfrankster_ YOU RE THE BOSS!! HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
I didn’t even know this was a thing, good to know for my 2zz build.
Thank you sir, totally awesome video. I just did a head gasket and head bolts on my 03 Cary with 2AZ-FE engine. It went great and car runs smooth except for the 1 second rattle at cold start up. It didn't use to do that before I worked on it. So I believe when I was manhandling the intake camshaft I must have accidentally locked it. From the video I can see that happening as I moved the camshaft off, cleaned it, put it on, the head, then off before installing the head and back on. Very easy to lock it. I will have to do the process, I believe I can get it out without taking the timing cover off.
If you lock the camshaft, this is intended to eliminate the startup rattle. A locked camshaft does not rattle, this is what the lock is for. A locked camshaft will give a P1349 code or it will fail the stall test at idle.
The camshaft must be installed in the car in the locked position, or you cannot set the timing correctly.
For the 2AZ-FE it is suggested that you install the gear onto the camshaft in the unlock position, then torque down the gear, then lock the gear, then install in the car.
In another video, for the 2gr-fe, I have shown that the startup rattle can be due to low oil pressure at startup. Without sufficient oil pressure, the ECU cannot keep control of the gear, and it rattles.
@@Merryfrankster_ Thank you sir again. I went ahead and bought a new gear and installed it per the Toyota service manual. Pretty much as you described. Removed the old one, put on the new one, put the bolt on and hand tightened, unlocked it, torqued it to spec, then locked it. I put it in and buttoned up all the parts. The VVT solenoid is Denso new. When I start the engine it fire immediately, timing is good, but now I get constant rattle from the gear. Got P0010, I went ahead for kicks and replaced the VVT solenoid and no change, rattles. I am not sure what's going on. I am thinking the new part, Japanese part but not Denso, maybe bad, I did something wrong. It acts as it's not getting oil pressure. Anyway, I have the valve cover off, and the chain is good and not rattling, The tensioner is on and tight I double checked it. Will install the old one back in and see what happens. Good thing is I can get this motor apart in 20 minutes LOL
Really helpful video. Don't worry I'm not going to ask if you need to unlock to install on camshaft 😅😅
LOLI think we can say that one has been "asked and answered,"
So what's the point of unlocking it if you have to install it in the locked position?
The point is - and I am sorry if I did not make this clear - that it is not possible to torque the bolt to the correct bolt with the gear locked. And when you put it in the car and it unlocks - as it does during operation - it will not function correctly, and it will make noises, and possibly self-destruct.
I just bought a vvit gear for my 09 Corolla is the gear locked when u purchase it?
Starting 09, Corollas have a different 1.8-liter motor, 2zr-fe, not 1zz-fe. This video applies only for 1zz-fe. You can check whether the gear is locked or unlocked when you place it on the camshaft. If it is unlocked, it will turn. It it is locked, it will not turn. If it is locked, unlock it before you tighten the camshaft bolt.
@@Merryfrankster_what happens if you fix the gear in a locked position.
@@oluwatobiarije8526 will make noise will not run right may cause check engine light.
Do I need a new vvt gear, if I installed it in locked position and packed up my engine and drove it too? Is my vvt gear damaged and it won’t work if I again open it and follow the correct procedure of installation??? Please guide…very worried.
I wouldn't worry too much. You can fix it easily. And if it seems to be working ok, and not making any noise, it's fine.
if i getting this right you have to unlocked then torque and install it unlocked or it doesnt matter if you are doing the timing chain?
try break down your question into more than one run-on sentence and use punctuation or I have no idea what you are asking.
If you do not separate the vvt gear from the camshaft then there is no reason to do this procedure. If the camshaft and vvt gear have been separated from each other then you must unlock the gear to install it.
Just want to ask, why the need to unlock the vvti gear ? If I were to remove the 4 bolts to clean the insides, do I need to unlock it before removing the 4 bolts?
You can disassemble the gear locked or unlocked, makes no difference. Just make sure that when you reassemble the gear and go to put the gear on the camshaft, before you tighten the center bolt, the gear should be in the unlocked state. After you tighten the center bolt to spec, you can lock the gear. If you tighten the bolt while the gear is locked, this will lead to problems.
What about the 2GR-FSE? My exhaust gear went bad and I want to replace both exhaust gears on both banks. Do I need to make sure they're unlocked before I torque them? Thank you!
No. This is only for 1zz and 2az. Does not apply to 2GR, 2AR, or 2UR.
I did a rebuild on a 1zzfe, non D motor and noticed it never had the get-up-and-go of the 1zzfed. I understand they are quite different motors and why but I don't think the vvti ever engaged after the rebuild. I know we didn't unlock the cam when we placed it back in, but I wasn't sure if unlocking it before putting it in matters.
When you place the cam back in the head does it need to be unlocked or locked? I see that it's supposed to unlock as you've said in the description.
Also what would go wrong with the inside to prevent it from unlocking? Would it be best to disassemble it on a rebuild to clean the interior and make sure it unlocks properly before placing it in?
Just picked up a 1zzfed from a friend today, going to replace the 1zzfe because it began leaking too much oil. Probably won't be taking the fed apart as I'm on a pretty tight time crunch.
Lots of questions here. Let's unpack this.
First of all the difference between fe and fed is not what you imagine. It is less than the difference that the weight of a full tank of gas makes to the acceleration of the vehicle.
If your rebuild feels sluggish there could be many possible causes. Check the static compression, and the leakdown test. If the rings are not gapped correctly, or the valves do not seat correctly, there will be diminished power.
Now with respect to vvt-i. If the gear is not unlocking in operation, it will most likely trigger a P1349. If you do not have a P1349, and you suspect the gear is not unlocking, then apply 12v to the OCV at idle. The engine should stall or come close to stalling. This means the vvt is unlocking and functioning. If idle does not change when you power the OCV, it could mean that you have a bad OCV. This would also trigger a code most of the time. As an alternative, do an active test of the vvti with Techstream. What? You don't have Techstream? Then you have no business working on a Toyota.
When you reassemble the camshaft. As far as I am concerned, it makes no difference whether you do it with the gear locked or unlocked. Just maks sure that the registration pin goes into the rounded slot. Either way, you will have to lock the gear to set the timing chain. Always, always, always, verify the function of the gear using compressed air (as shown in this video) before you re-install the camshaft in the car.
The gear returns to the lock position every single time you shut down the engine. If it did not, then the gear would clatter and rattle horribly on startup. So locking and unlocking is part of normal operation, not just something you do with the camshafts out.
Hope this helps. Feel free to follow up.
replaced the ocv but swapped back after not noticing a difference. The motor just never really felt like it had the power of the stock motor I had previously. I believe it was still lower by at least 10-15 hp than a fed. Stock is 140hp vs 125hp from factory. I guess I answered my own question. That difference plus a few more hp from an aftermarket exhaust feels quite a bit different in a 2000lb vehicle.
I know that the fed has lightened rods and a handful of other tiny differences. they're basically identical as far as everything else. The rings were fine, the cams and valves were all within spec when reassembled, never had a p1349 during the entire operation of the motor. I did have misfire cylinder4 code but this is with aftermarket headers and exhaust where the bungs are only on 2 of the header tubes instead of a stock mr2's precat headers where they flow in 2 at a time.
Anyway, after my first ever rebuild using youtube and a handful of manuals I got over 30k miles and 4~ years use on the motor and quite a bit of track time. ($100 used with probably 200k miles) and a $300 cheap rebuild kit. The only reason I'm replacing it is because of the oil leaking, it's probably worth another rebuild or at least parts. I guess I'll look into techstream options for future endevors.
and thank you it did help.
@@PhonePhone-sf8te I'm very familiar with the Fed...the difference between the Fe and fed is ...the Fed has threaded block for passenger cv axle carrier bearing and it has larger intake /exhaust valves and 8 hole piston skirts for oil return from cylinders...the con rods are the same... please don't double guess this information..I have had both of them apart a few times.. hope this clears things up
@@Mikegastaldo Hey Mike, I figured all of that out a few months ago when I was doing my rebuild. The piston skirt holes you're talking about are referring at the oil return rings? Basically all 1zz models before 2003 (from my experience) all have 4 holes per cylinder and they're tiny. In this rebuild I just did, I added a 3rd hole(on each side) and enlarged all 3 holes of the stock pistons.
The rebuild went successful and I had it on the track right after breaking it in. I have a slight leak out of the front main seal, and I'll have to deal with it soon.
I got a timing chain rebuild kit. Came with exhaust sprocket, lower chain sprocket, oil pump, chain tensioner, chain guides, and a new chain.however it didn’t come with a vvti gear. I set the timing and ran the car and it jumped timing .I’m suspecting it’s the vvti gear because it’s the only thing that didn’t came in the kit.
I noticed my vvti gear was in the lock position after it jumped timing.
Do I have to unlock and relock the vvti gear when I set timing ? And should I test my OCV?
Ouch I hope there was no engine damage. With that said - the VVT gear will always go to the lock position when you stop the engine. The only time you need to unlock the VVT gear is when you install the gear onto the camshaft. It must be in the unlocked position when you torque the center bolt. After you torque the center bolt, you can let the gear go to the locked position. A common reason for jumping timing is a chain tensioner issue specifically if the tensioner does not release from its retracted position.
@@Merryfrankster_ oh okay, I didn’t remove the gear when I was setting the timing so I guess there’s no need to do that? I used a screw driver to unhook the chain tensioner.
I guess there could be some engine damage.
@@noelhcarpio1551 If you have not removed the gear from the camshaft then there is no need to unlock it. If there is engine damage you will know it right away - some valves will be bent and the starter will refuse to crank and you will not be able to turn the crankshaft by hand with a wrench.
I turned motor ccw using vvt bolt been getting p1349 since is it related
It could be related, yes.
@@Merryfrankster_ double checked and vvt gear is locked since the two dots line up can I unlock it w/o taking timing chain off
@@dannysouliotis It's normal for the vvt gear to be locked when you shut off the engine. Why do you want to unlock it? There is no reason to unlock the vvt gear unless it has been disassembled from the camshaft.
@@dannysouliotis I have no idea what you've done to your car, or how you've done it. You should never turn the engine backward, and you should never turn the engine by the camshaft.
@@Merryfrankster_I kept getting a bank1 oxygen mix code- cylinder 1 had 0 clearance on intake valve - changed bucket - after reinstalled cams and chain - turned motor CCW to release chain tensioner- used vvt bolt to turn it. Been getting 1349 since.Installed new solenoid cleaned screen new oil and filter blew out all oil passages to vvt gear from cam .
Let me check if I get this right: Thing is, I have bought new camshafts and new intake sprocket (QRP). I installed the sprocket on the camshaft, no problems aligning with the pin to the hole, but I didn't check the operation of the unlocking. Should I take the camshaft out of the engine again, to verify that the unlocking works? When installing the camshaft and chain, the sprocket needs to be locked, right? It is enough that the unlocking actually happens when I blow air into the hole?
I don't know how many times this has been repeated here in these comments and elsewhere on the World Wide Web. When you install the new vvt gear on the camshaft, first snug the bolt by hand. Then, unlock the gear, using air. If it is already unlocked, you don't have to do this. Then, tighten the bolt to the correct torque. Now you can do whatever you want with the gear. But if you tighten the bolt while the gear is locked, then the gear might not work correctly. You can put the camshaft into the engine with the gear locked or unlocked, it does not matter. But you must have the gear unlocked when you tighten the bolt. Capische? Get it? Feel free to ask if you don't. You can take your camshaft out of your engine, or not, it's up to you. This procedure is specific to a certain range of years and models with specific engines.. It does not apply to newer models with different engines, because the gears are constructed differently and don't need to be unlocked for installation. That is one of the reasons why there is a lot of confusion about this.
@@Merryfrankster_ Thank you for the reply. So, just because I am a little bit thick and need everything with teaspoons: As soon as it is unlocked, I should remove the sprocket from the camshaft, and only then, maintaining it in the unlocked position, reinstall it and tighten to the correct torque? And then, when it is installed, it should be possible to wiggle it a few degrees?
@@torew01 I've said everything I have to say, and more. Try a different channel.
@@Merryfrankster_ Thank you so much. You must be fun at parties.
@@torew01 Are you really a complete idiot who needs everything repeated to him a million times, or you just pretend, because you enjoy wasting other people's time.
So are you supposed to put it back in the vehicle unlocked?
After you tighten it while unlocked, I guarantee you that it will lock itself again when you go to put it in the car. But if somehow you manage to keep it unlocked when you put it back in the car, that's fine too. Either way is fine. THE ONLY IMPORTANT THING THAT NOBODY HERE SEEMS TO UNDERSTAND IS IT MUST BE UNLOCKED WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE CENTER BOLT. How many times have I answered this question already.
@@Merryfrankster_ If I never remove the center bolt then it doesn't need to be unlocked?
@@PhonePhone-sf8te yes, that's correct, if you have never removed the center bolt, then it never needs to be unlocked.
You mean 20psi to unlock the gear as per the manual ?
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Grazie per il video!quindi per mettere la catena di distribuzione deve essere in fase di sblocco.potresti spiegarmelo !
Per mettere l'ingranaggio sull'albero a camme, l'ingranaggio deve essere sbloccato. Quindi applichi la coppia corretta. Successivamente, puoi bloccare l'ingranaggio e mettere l'albero a camme sul motore. L'ingranaggio deve essere sbloccato quando lo si installa sull'albero a camme. Non importa se è bloccato o sbloccato quando si installa l'albero a camme sul motore. Spero che questa spiegazione ti aiuti.
@@Merryfrankster_ grazie tantissimo adesso mi chiaro.sei stato molto gentile.ciao dall italia,sicilia,palermo
bene bene molto bene
Awesome video! I will give it a try to unlock my vvti
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Hi Mr Frank good day, cheers from Brazil
I have some questions
I need to clean mine because is so dirty inside, can you help me to see if my mind is right?
first need to remove the entirely camshaft off the header / the gear is locked on this moment
Before dissasembly off the gear it need to unlock so if wont tear the pin apart
With the pulley off the camshaft i can remove the 4 bolts on the pulley on the locked or unlocked position
Then dissasembly and clean all the pulley and assembly again, the unlock and install it on the camshaft
Then lock it and install on the header so i can set the timing correctly
Is that right? Sorry for my bad english, i am a Brazilian
You are mostly right. There is no need to unlock the gear to remove it from the camshaft. It comes right off. The rest is correct
@@Merryfrankster_ and another question mr frank, i dissasembled the pulley from the camshaft without unlock it like you said and it all goed right, so i gonna clean it all, the pulley is full off carbon oil inside off it
But i have a question, can i mount it on the unlocked position and after mount it on the camshaft? Because i dont have a compressor here in my house
@@DragonFoust Yes, sure, you can mount it in the unlocked position, no problem. Just make sure it stays unlocked. It is always trying to lock itself. .
To be clear, the gear must be in the unlocked position when you torque the bolt onto the camshaft. After the bolt is torqued, you can lock the gear.
@@Merryfrankster_ great! Thank you so much my friend!!
In summary, you dont need to do this if you are doing a camshaft install, only if you want to check its function?
In summary, you must do the unlock anytime you have removed the gear from the camshaft, and torque the center nut with the gear unlocked. If you torque the nut while the gear is locked, the gear will malfunction.
@@Merryfrankster_ Oh wow, Okay. So basically a good plan would be to remove the camshaft with the gear intact from the engine, apply pressure to unlock and then remove the gear, transfer the gear to a new camshaft and tighten. Lock the gear again and reinstall? Thanks for your help.
@@newtypetommy
1. Remove the camshaft from engine
2. Remove the gear from camshaft
3. Install gear on new camshaft - snug
4. Unlock gear
5. Torque
6. Install in engine
Once unlocked, the gear wants to snap back to locked position. It is difficult to handle it and keep it unlocked. You will find this out yourself, I am sure.
@@Merryfrankster_ thanks!!
Sorry for the dumb question but i cannot understand very well.
I recentely Had to do the headgasket on my Mr2 spyder, while taking apart the head i took out the intake camshaft WITHOUT removing the vvt gear from the cam itself (so it was "all in one piece"and was surely locked)
After replacing all the components, i put the intake cam and not bothered with the unlock procedure (as i was not aware of this) and on first start i heard a grinding noise that went away in a matter of seconds.... so here is my question:
Should i have unlocked the gear? while re-doing the timing on the 1zz engine, does the gear has to stay locked or unlocked?
i'm asking because my car now seems to not pull as strong as it did and recently threw me a DTC P1346
The gear must be unlocked ONLY if you remove the gear from the camshaft. You unlock the gear to tighten the center bolt ONLY when replacing the gear on the camshaft. If you did not separate the gear from the camshaft there is no need to unlock it. The noise you heard was possibly due to low oil pressure. On first start after reassembling the engine, always remove the fuel pump fuse and crank without firing the engine, in order to circulate the oil, then put the fuse back in and start the engine normally.
for toubleshooting this code, follow the steps in the factory service manual.
When removing the vvt gear from a cam, do we have to unlock it first? Or can we just unbolt it and remove?
Intall camshaft lock or unlockpositin?
Put the gear on the shaft. Unlock. Torque the bolt. After you torque the bolt you can lock the gear. It does not matter after that whether it is locked or unlocked.
@@Merryfrankster_ Do I need a new vvt gear, if I installed it in locked position and packed up my engine and drove it too? Is my vvt gear damaged and it won’t work if I again open it and follow the correct procedure of installation??? Please guide…very worried.
@@shahabshah8067 you should be able to remove it, unlock it, torque it, and put it back. If you want to play it safe, buy a new vvt gear, it's only $100 or so brand new.
@@Merryfrankster_ what about the exhaust vvt gear, does it has a locking mechanism similar to the intake gear and do I have to follow the same procedure for it?
@@shahabshah8067 WHAT CAR? THERE IS NO EXHAUST VVT GEAR ON THIS ENGINE. INTAKE ONLY.
ok so this is to loosen and tighten the center bolt that holds the gear to the cam. Then after its tightened to spec it needs to be locked for re-installation. Got scared for a second
It sounds like you have it right. There is no need to unlock the cam gear, unless you have separated it from the camshaft. Then it needs to be unlocked for correct re-installation. As shown.
What's your generall opinion for 2zzge mate? Is supereliable??
Like nearly every engine known to man (without a dry sump), the 2zz will have oil starvation issues in high-G turns, i.e. sticky tires, high speed, tight turns on track. Other than that, it is very reliable. It has rocker shafts, which means it cannot fling its rockers like other engines with free-floating rockers. The variable lift mechanism is dependable, and so is the variable valve timing, so long as you keep your oil clean. If you want to put forced induction on it, I would suggest that you use forged pistons, but the piston rods themselves are forged from factory.
@Merryfrankster_
Thanks mate! the wiped intake camshaft on lotus why happen? Also need valve adjustment service?
@@DimoS... The wiped camshaft happen because people neglect to replace the o-ring that seals between the valve cover and the head. This causes leakage of oil and insufficient flow to the squirters. Check the valve clearance and if the clearance is out of spec, adjust it. This is normal for any engine of that era, before hydraulic valve lash adjusters.
@Merryfrankster_ mate thank you very much!!! I appreciate it you are the only person who answered me in this mystery with the wiped camshaft, why does it happen in 90% of lotuses? and not in toyota? Also, what oil do you recommend for this engine? I run mobil1 0w40 fs because it has 1100ppm zddp do you have any other suggestions? (I've lived here for 9 months and it's over 30°c )
@Merryfrankster_ also the c60 gearbox with right use is reliable with longlife?
All the description and video and you have no explained why there is the need to unlock the gear. Perhaps I am missing something?
It is suggested, if you are replacing the camshafts, that you must unlock the gear before torquing down the camshaft center bolt, otherwise the gear may be damaged and it does not function correctly in the car. This is a peculiarity for some engines by Toyota, not all, and it is the subject of several Technical Service Bulletins from the manufacturer. Sorry I thought that everyone knew this already.
Lol...looks like the video caused more confusion than not😂
Disagree. Half the viewers are smarter than the other half. There is about one quarter of the viewers who are absolutely dumb. They would be confused by 2 + 2 = 4.
PS. A priori I don't know which percentile or quartile YOU fall in, but so far the indications are not very encouraging.... for you.