@@ZILAwelds spoken like a true undercover super hero ! “The procedure that works is the CORRECT PROCEDURE “. ❤️🏴☠️🎥💯%👍🏻. You are the reason we have A. HTP 200 TLP it is phenomenal !
Ya that's Kool. I'm digg'n this modern media madness. Wait till you get so busy U-Tubeing you can't answer all your subscribers. Some U-Tubers I subscribe to make good money and sponsors. Most at least give a thumbs up 👍...
This is one of the most honest and straight forward videos on stick welding aluminum that I have seen so far, thank you for sharing! I am a truck / heavy equipment mechanic and I never did much aluminum welding as I was always told you needed a MIG with a spool gun or TIG welder. Last year I purchased Hobart GR 303 trailer mounted welder, now thanks to your video I can get even more use out of it!
Back in 62’ they put me on the underwater rig for the mars expedition. Man. Back on those mars oceans the toxicity of the water would catch on fire if we used spark or gas. So we had to heat our pipes by hand. It was hard getting the penetration right but you’ll have that on those big jobs
indeed great job guys not many people use stick method for aluminum but you proved that with some good prep and preheat knowing your machine well you can achieve some great results nicely done
Probably the single best aluminum stick welding video on UA-cam. The little HTP machine is absolutely badass. I am seriously considering buying one just because of it’s flexibility.
Thanks, I had some help on that video. as far as the machine. - I have welded with well over 50 different sick welding machines ... to only mentions a few miller xmt, Lincoln SAE200, Lincoln Vantage 400 ...and none of them has better arc dynamic than that little thing ... (and again arc dynamic is somewhat subjective - but never the less) a $16000 vantage 400 has more power but the stick arc is about the same, and the vantage doesn't have pulse options ... that machine is probably the most under appreciated machine out there ... this is not "just another stick inverter" ... this machine isn for the stick welding enthusiast ... arc dynamic out of this world.
@@jondavidmcnabb sure , Stainless I have to make a video ... cast iron check out these here. ua-cam.com/video/lHaY99Te5ec/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/qIMQXrTIUYU/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/lrRZM74ULQQ/v-deo.html I do a fair share of cast iron with this machine and I personally love it for that ! I have another cast video of a blower housing coming but its all talk no actual welding to be seen on video .... Stainless I dont do as much but I can probably do a video ... in the next month or so .... what type/thickness of stainless are you looking at ? what type of job ?
Good video I being welding for 20 years u will never stop learning about welding that's what love about it saludos desde Baytown love ur video and thanks again
Thank you. Was wanting to add these rods to my repertoire but was finding the slag an absolute chore to clean up cause I was hittin it way soon. Thanks for the warm water trick I'll try that out sometime.
I am really having a hard time mastering these 4043 rods. I can't afford a tank of argon and no local vendors want to sell gas to hobby welders. So, I saw all these reviews of the electrode and the method, and I thought I would give it a go. Sanded my piece of 6061, preheated, and immediately wend hood down and struck an arc, which of course stuck immediately. Tried again. And again. I could strike an arc and it either sticks or I can't keep the arc going. I tried from minimum to maximum current, 40 to 170 amps. Tried DCEP first because that is what is recommended, and since it didn't work, tried DCEN, which didn't work either. I burnt up 20-odd rods and my piece just looks like a gaseous lava flow. I got about a half inch of recognizable weld bead, that's it. I know these things burn up fast but I just couldn't get the feed right. It either sticks or the arc breaks in a second or less. I am really thinking I am going to have to just forget about welding aluminum. I can stick weld mild steel just fine. Been doing that for 40 years. This aluminum is kicking my ass. All you guys make it look easy. Good aluminum, thorough preheat, clean surface, machine in good order, solid grround connection, I just can't make a bead to save my life. Using 3/32" 14" rods. Is there something I might be overlooking? My machine is 220 but it is a cheapie, does everything type machine. No hot start or any fancy features. Can't afforrd a better one. I guess I am just out of luck, huh?
what I have seen 8/10 times with inexpnsive stick welding machines is - the advertised or selected amperage is no where near what the actual output is ... as a rule of thump for stick welding, if the rod sticks. - you dont have enough amp yet ... I had a guy who came for a class, brought a 200 amp stick welder a lotus brand machine and he tries to weld 7018 ... 1/8" ... and he couldn't make it work ... when I welded with the machine I had it set at 194 amps ... and wen I meaured with a clamp amp meter what the actual output was it was barely 130 ... the machine welded good though ... I mean goo enough .... what material thickness are you welding ? 3/32 rods can be tricky ... 1/8" run better in my mind .... and I f you are running gthose Hobart rods from the bog box store ... well ... you need a. better machine and a lot of talent to make those work .... Eutectics or MG rods run a lot smoother ...
@@ZILAwelds Thank you so much for replying! I would not be a bit surprised if max current is misrepresented. The thing is, I can run beads with 7018, 6011, etc in mild steel just fine with this machine, and if I take my time I can get decent penetration in 1/4" mild steel bar. 1/8" thick angle iron, easy sneezy. So it isn't THAT much exaggerated. Of course I get way less sticking of the 4043 rods with it cranked up, but then I just can't keep the arc going. The piece I was trying to run a bead on was 1/4" x 2" 6061 bar stock. I preheated well past spit frrying temp, up to very faint incandescence, with my stinger ready to go and my helmet already on my head, so literally only a couple of seconds between the preheat and first attempt at running a bead. I wasn't trying to weld two pieces together, or get good penetration on the first go, just strike an arc and run a bead, and work out what settings, angle, etc I need to use. Not Hobart. You will probably do a face palm here. www.amazon.com/S%C3%9CA-Aluminum-E4043-Stick-Electrode/dp/B08WWW63N1/ref=rvi_sccl_5/147-5592536-5396433?content-id=amzn1.sym.f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pd_rd_i=B08WYCGT7B&th=1 I also have some 1/8" in the same brand, and I will try them tomorrow morning if I can get out there before it starts getting too hot. My budget for the month is DONE. Maybe I will try the two brands you like, next month. I will see if I have some thinner aluminum to try on, too. I know I have some 1" square tube somewhere, with 1/16" or thereabouts wall thickness. The thing is, in steel, that is getting right about at the limit of how thin I can weld without blowing holes in my work. But in for a dime, in for a dollar. I'll give it a go.Maybe pick up a piece of 1/8" aluminum at Lowe's tomorrow.
tungsten does not stick to aluminum, it leaves essentially a void, zero strength, a build in weak point, leak point, point of origin for a future failure.
yes - but you should check with your paint supplier for what paint you have to use for aluminum or if you have to use a primer first .... now I think I remember (but DONT hold me to it) Sherwin Williams has a product called DTM (direct to metal) and you can brush that on without and special primer .... but again ... talk to your paint guy to find out who paint for aluminum he recommends ...
so glad you did this with that HTP machine. I have the exact same one and need to weld aluminum plates to my aluminum carport stanchions. I’m looking forward to using your tips to at least make the parts stick enough to do the job. Thanks!
I just burned a pack of Aluminum Electrodes I definitely recommend just practicing just padding beads then go from there ..I went straight to the T -joint & it was not like the TV..haha ....lmao it was fun though !
@@youtubeisfullofspam7068 its not "intuitive" if you are used to 7018 but its not terrible hard and undoable either .... its just different ... the rods burn faster a lot faster (especially without pulse) and its all heat driven ... preheat is your friend .... and having options to adjust during the weld may be helpful but are definitely not a must
How do you weld vertical with it? My friend is planning to weld prototype boat with it and by all my knowledge about stick and aluminium it might be very difficult to get penetration or not to melt it. Would you rather go downhill? Can you actually run uphill on thicker aluminium blocks?
According to the little picture with the arrows on the spec sheet its vertical UP Clean weld area. Parts 1/8" or heavier should be beveled 70°-90°. No preheat is necessary on thin gauges but/ faster, flatter, smoother welds are produced on heavier sections if they are preheated to approximately 400°F. Hold electrode vertical to workpiece, maintain a short arc and fast travel speed. Use either stringer beads or weaving technique. Remove slag between passes. Restart arc on existing weld deposits. Allow part to cooll slowly. Chip off all slag before quenching. For complete slag removal use a wire brush with a 10% sulfuric acid and hot water solution. Rinse with clean hot water. Send me your email address and i will email you the spec sheet
for steel or for aluminum ? for aluminum there are no cheap rods at all ... dent aluminum rods are from $30-45 ish per lbs ..... electrodes for steel ? 7018 is a good rod as far as cheap? well. Lincoln Excalibur welds nice Messer MG7018 welds just as nice ... then Esab atom arc 7018 and far don on my personal list is Hobart 7018 ... and then you can buy a bunch of Radom stuff everywhere else ... and those are sometimes hit most of the time miss .... my expericene to get a good price you need to buy like 50 lbs .... if you buy in 5,10 or 11 lbs boxes you pay about $3.50-$4.00 per lbs nowadays. .... if you buy a 50 lbs pack you can get pricing as good as $2.50 per lbs ... if you buy it locally you pay sale tax and if you get it shipped to you you might or might not pay sales tax but at $2.50 per lbs you do pay shipping which comes out to be about $0.50-0.75 per lbs on a 50 lbs box depends on where you live and where it ships from ....
I bought a 160 amp arc welder to weld 1/4 in motor bracket to my bike frame. I used 1/8 in al rode. Was never able to weld strong enough - the piece would come apart with a small punch!! The issue was that I never was able to create a liquid pool and the rode would always stick to the piece. I did preheat to about 200f. I tried more heat and increased the amp up to the max of 160 A. Nothing worked. Any idea what I am doing wrong? Thanks
To weld with an Aluminum Coated Electrode, your welding machine must have an Alternating Current output voltage, if it is not Alternating current the welding will not be good. Most welding inverters have direct current output voltage. You need AC alternating current to have a good opening of the electric arc and form a good melting pool.. greetings here from Brazil
These electrodes are designed for DCEP ... 100% cleaning ... if you swap polarity you will be in a world of trouble .... AC is according to the rod manufacture NOT an option
Cheers, great video! I want to weld a canopy for a ute this way, welding a frame from 0.2" thick box section and then welding aluminum sheet onto the frame. Would it be possible to stick weld 0.04" sheet lap join onto 0.2" frame?
Well, that is 1mm sheet …. The thinnest i ever aluminum stick welded with a pulse stick welder was 2mm …. I am fairly certain that i am not good enough to weld 1mm …. Probably not even 1.5 mm …. The 2mm i welded was only possible (at least in my mind” because i had pulse stick … The frame is not a problem at that thickness You will just have to rivet the sheets on or use UHB tape …
theoretically any DC stick welder would work .... that being said with alumunm rods it comes in handy to really dial the amperage in closely maybe even start with a little higher amperage then taper down as the material heats up ... the Lincoln welder you are talking about does things in steps ... step of 10 ir 15 amps ? so you might just get lucky that one fits "perfect" but if it doesn't then ...??? you get the idea
Will my old big Lincoln welder work for aluminium welding? I tried welding with it and it didn't work, from your wideo I've learned that I needed to pre heat the welding surface, plus my rods were old and corroded. So if I get new sticks and pre heat the area will it work? I dont have much features like your welder does.
I dont know ... I used 3/32 down to .080" material thickness .... which is about the lowest I feel is possible.... and it requires some practice ... how thick is your frame ?
Great video. I will teaching my self to weld aluminum, yes I know bad idea. I need to build an aluminum frame for a duck blind and other boat projects. Would you recommend I go with stick, tig, or a spool gun?. I know broad questions, but I need to choose one and buy a rig. Then teach myself on scraps until I get it. I can't afford to buy a built blind . One brand I am copying is bustem blinds if you want to Google that, but they use steel conduit. In my salt water environment, aluminum is better. Opinion's or welcomed.
1/8” rod without pulse 3/16 …. Maybe 1/8” if you are either good or lucky 3/32 rods 1/8” should be very obtainable even without pulse …. Maybe even thinner … 0.090”
Great video, Thanks for the important info. I do not need to do structural welding, I need to just build up an area on my aluminum transmission where the top tab broke off. Is the preheating necessary for just a build up of welds. Or is it needed for the initial bond of the stick to the housing? Or just when two pieces of aluminum are welded together? Thanks for any information.
You need to pre hear a little to get a “good bite” Then as things heat up and you want to build it will be a long process if letting every pass cool back down to a temperature where you can almost touch it with your bare hands and then after the previous pass us clean and cold you weld the next pass
2mm thick is .080” that is the very minimum i am capable of doing …. And i prefer to use 3/32 rods for that but it can be done with 1/8” rods if i use pulse …. Generally speaking … a little thicker might help and be more forgiving …. Too thick is harder again ….
Would a cheap basic 150 amp Amazon stick welder with no remote or any other adjustment still work or does one need those little features Great video also.
theoretically YES in reality you need "good arc dynamic" ... arc dynamic is not shown in any spec sheet ... average is "meaningless" ... if your machine runs 6010 typically it has good or greg arc dynamic .... some machines can not even run 6011 or 7018 ... their arc dynamic lacks so much that the only rod you can run is 6013 .... if that is the case it will be a lot harder to run aluminum rods for you .... the better arc dynamic you have the better all rods (also aluminum) run
doubt it ... it is very thin ... I mean ... with some copper backing you could ... never say never ... it would not be my first choice but if was stranded somehow and I had to stick wed that aluminum rin or walk home ... I guess I wouldn't be walking .... LOL
1:16 sound goes out. no/extremely low muddled sound. 5:55 sound comes back on. am i the only one with this problem? doesn't seem to be my system... so just wondering.
try ob a different computer ... works just fine for me - no copyrighted music or anything so there shouldn't be problem ... UA-cam is goofy like that sometimes ..
according to the spec sheet uphill, I have not down it personally but the spec sheet says it can be done ... if you cant me to email you a copy give me your email address and I will send it to you
The amperage is usually determined mainly my rod diameter and type. 3/32 7018 80-90 amps 3/32 6010/11/13 55-70 amps 3/32 stainless and aluminum rods 60-75 amp
Yea it works grate in a classroom environment with the fancy extra tools but the real test would be in a field situation where you have less than ideal circumstances, plain ole gass/desil machine and thiner material in a position where you couldn't get oil paint ect off and no option for pre heating how good does it preform. Educational video for sure but its not a real world situation
I welded these rods on aluminum water tanker trucks in the field in a 30 mph wind .... it works ! does it look as nice as in this video - no, of course not but it looks ok, nothing to ba ashamed off and it holds water, no leaks
can this method be used on marine outboards cast aluminum? i do not have access to tig or mig. i do have a small inverter stick welder ingco 160 amp. if the pieces im welding is thin can i tack then chip slag then tack again until i complete the length of the area i need welded? that way i dont melt the entire piece? i need your professional advice.
@@pauls330 theoretically you can use this rod for aluminum castings. If your inverter is “good enough” I don’t know. The approach of tack and chip slag does not sound like a winning strategy….. you need some preheat and you also do better with longer ish welds….
@@ZILAwelds what i mean by tack and chip is like spot welding. tack a few spots then chip the flux off then tack few more spots and chip flux again until all is welded. im talking about thin cast aluminum. i would not want the entire thing to melt.
@@pauls330 well. If it is that thin, maybe this is not the right process…. With 3/32” rods I can weld as this as 1/8”. And you would want to weld a continuous weld, aluminum, even cast is nothing like cast iron…. Also,you need heat for the slag to release correctly …. Chipping and wire brushing will only get you so far …. Hot water, a stiff nylon brush and maybe some dawn will help you get remaining “slag” off …. This is nothing like steel welding
Can this welder weld cast aluminum wheels/rims If I double bevel and preheat? Century by Lincoln Electric Inverter Arc 230 DC Arc Welder - Inverter, 230 Volts, 10-155 Amp Output, Model# K2790-2 50 amp! And can I use a generator? (5500 running watts/ 45 amp).
be really careful with double beveling rims ... they are very thin to begin with and you need a certain thickness to weld aluminum ... if you dont have that thickness you need a copper spoon for backing .... I am not sure on your welder and generator it makes not too much sense ..... looks like the welder is a 230 volt welder ..... I dont know why the output is so low 10-155 amps ... either way that would be a good range to weld aluminum rods with, I would suggest using 3/32 for thin stuff like rims usaweld.com/collections/stick-rod/products/messer-mg-405-stick-welding-rod as far as the generator ... 5500 watt and 45 amps ... that would make sense if your generator has 110 volt output .... since your machine is 230 volt input I would say (whiteout seeing the machines or knowing more about it) you dont have "the right" set up ....
tried this earlier today but all I got was the sticking and no puddle start. after I put everything away, I realized I didn't try reversing the polarity. stick plugging into the neg and the ground clamp on positive on the 200amp stick inverter mini welder? If this is what I did wrong let me know for trying to weld aluminum pieces together.
Ok then it was hooked up right just not working right? I had it up to 125 amps before I got a spark and kept turning up to get a puddle? Never happened. This was trying to weld on a outboard motor skeg fin. Grd was on fin that was bare aluminum no paint. 1954 maybe not good metal?
@@TimsWorkshopTJY maybe, but unlikely .... what I see more often than not is the read outs on these inexpensive machines being "off" .... I had a client who owned a lotos stick welder (200 amp machine) and he was trying to weld regular 7018 1/8" Lincoln Excalibur and it was not working at all ... the guy cam over to my shop with his machine and the trouble description was very similar to yours: "it just sticks, it is not welding" ..... I said if it sticks the amperage is too low, he said: cant be I am already at 140 amp !!! so I tried it and I kept dialing it up and dialing it up and eventually it welded nice (ish) at 194 AMPS !!!! the guy said this is crazy !!!! I put my clamp amp meter around the ground and measured ..... 128 amp reading on the meter. 194 amp on the readout of the machine ... well - you be the judge ... on all other beaches that meter is within 2-5 amps ... it felt like 128 amps it welded like 128 amps there meter read 128 amps .... so maybe ..... if the rod is sticking. DIAL IT UP !!!!! if you have spatter flying all over the place, dial it down .... that is the basics of stick welding ... I am NOT a stick welding genius, I dont have all the answers ... but those 2 rules have proven to hold true most of the time for me .... also sidenote: inverters that dont run 6010 will have a much harder time with these aluminum rods as the "good inverters" ... that is juts the nature of the beast.
I have use it on steel and it burns great, so I realized that I had the ground clamp on the part I was trying to weld on the main aluminum structure that had a slight gap between parts. I think I will clean up an area on the main part for the grd clamp and try it again but full up on the amps.
Hello. Please it is always necessary to warm it up before welding? I have to weld aluminium construction outside on open air at heigh 5 meters so it will be complicated...
You dont have to do anything. If you dont preheat or for the first 5-10 sec of your weld raise your amperage significantly it will a cold, ugly, bumpy and lumpy weld with possible improper penetration
@@ZILAwelds Ahaaa. So if I will raise my amperage (how much...20%?) it will be ok without pre-heat? And could I ask you...is it possible to weld with TIG outside if wind is lower than 5-10 miles per hour? Thank you very much!!
@@tomas12912 20% additional amperage for the first few seconds will help you a lot it is the 2nd best thing if you cannot pre heat. will it be ok ? yes I should be ok, preheat would be ideal. raising average makes it ok. it is possible to tig weld outside ... my personal experience is : I try to block out the wind with heavy welding or moving blankets.... if I can not block the wind out here are my pseronal limits for wind ( and your will fay a little bit tig welding up to 5 mph at best mig welding up to 10 miles per hour gas shielded flux cored 15 gases flux cored and stick ... 40+ mph .... tig is really sensitive ...!!! alumunm mig is also more sensitive as "regular" (steel) mig but better then tig
@@ZILAwelds Wow. Thank you so much! I just made huge gathering informations about aluminium welding and I found out problem with strength decrease due to raising temperatures due to welding. More than 200 °C is going to be problem with AlMgSi0.5, AlMgSi1 e.g. and it will lost about 40% of its original strength due to phases changes. And this is also problem which I am solving. AlMg4.5Mn0.7 looks like very good aluminium alloy for welding because it is durable against this heat-strength decrease but it is not common and I didn't find square tubes made of it 🤦♂️🤷♂️😵😤
@@tomas12912 CORRECT !!! I have plenty of videos on this ! Aluminum welding destroys the heat treat and artificial aging and takes out 30-70% of the strength depending on what type of base alloy you have and what heat treat you have ….
Hi Phillip. Did you find any info on an Aussie version of this htp/Stel pulse stick welder. I couldn't find any info so if you know anything could you please let me know. Cheers
Ok so I watched this video, and others, i thought hey that looks useful, so i bought a cheap 180A inverter (no pulse controls or arc force) welder and a box of 4043 3/32 and cleaned and pre heated the hell out of a piece of aluminium the same kind my boat is made of. Now let me say, I have many many years of stick welding xp with big 500 amp diesel welders up from 3/32" up to 1/4", 7018, 6010, 7014 overhead gap filling etc, and damn I couldn't and still simply CAN NOT get a bead going with this 4043. I sticks and or splutters out as soon as I get anything going. Any Ideas what im doing wrong? Is it my welder? Is it humidity in the rods? Is it the type of aluminium? I only know its probably a marine alloy. The only difference in amp from 60 right up to the 180 max is the size and adhesion of the single ball i melt off the rod and then splutter nothing. Keep in mind i just wanted to weld a chair on the back deck, nothing life and death. Is it easier to maintain an arc with say 1/8 or another rod? What the hell am i doing wrong!?
>>Great Outdoor World of Mines & Resources Ok so I watched this video, and others, i thought hey that looks useful, so i bought a cheap 180A inverter >(no pulse controls or arc force) welder and a box of 4043 3/32 >and cleaned and pre heated the hell out of a piece> of aluminium the same kind my boat is made of.> Now let me say, I have many many years of stick welding xp with big 500 amp diesel welders up from 3/32" up to 1/4", 7018, 6010, 7014 overhead gap filling etc, and damn I couldn't and still simply CAN NOT get a bead going with this 4043.> I sticks >and or splutters out as soon as I get anything going>. Any Ideas what im doing wrong? Is it my welder? > Is it humidity in the rods?
@@ZILAwelds Thank you for your time and response, I am welding 3/8" thick angle and a few other random pieces around trying to find every alloy I can. I preheat with mapp torch until the water fades, just like i watched in your videos. I dont thing this is a pre heat problem as I should get something running regardless of penetration. The rods are AirLiquide alcord 5si 4043 and i put them in my oven at 120 C for an hour, still no luck. I think it is the welder. I will try 6010 on steel and see if it can do that, I was having some very nice results with some 3/32 308 stainless welding 1/8 tubing. Why will 4043 not weld marine alloy is this relate to my arc stability problem or a strength thing? My machine is Bormann 240v 27.2v at 180 amp. (I am in EU) I will try to find some 5000 type rods in 1/8 and just try this. I will also try to push the rod faster but so far it is behaving like welding steel with bare rod haha.
@@GreatOutDoorWorldofMines your main problem is rod diameter …. I have a hard time welding 1/4” with 3/32” rods …. For 3/8” for sure you need 1/8” maybe 5/32 (4mm) If you dont have enough rod diameter you dont have enough heat …. Cold “balls” of molten aluminum dripping or rolling around just as you described 4043 is ALSI5 For marine grade you need ALMG?? You need the magnesium …. If you weld a high magnesium base ally with ALSI5 it might also just “drip” and nor want to join right …. I have experienced that myself before with mig Well, good luck !
Well in the end I came to the conclusion that the welder was just junk or at least did not have the settings required to get results with aluminium stick. I ended up replacing it with a larger MIG machine and have had excellent results. It also has stick weld and I was able to get decent results with aluminium using that just as a test control. So the takeaway for me is, if you're thinking about welding aluminium stick, buy a decent MIG or TiG set-up with stick capability, with the features you need to get stick working. You can use the MIG for projects, and the stick in a pinch where no argon is available.
Esse tipo de Eletrodo revestido é próprio para ser usado em maquinas de solda Tipo Inversora de Corrente DC , Geralmente essas Maquinas de Solda Inversora de Corrente DC são as mais Baratas do Mercado , dai a necessidade de se usar um Eletrodo Especifico para Ela ..
ALL welding stick machines sold new int he last 10 years ALL have been inverter machines ....! very cheap ones and the most expensive ones ....."they" have not sold a stick welding transformer machine in over a decade .... so I dont know what your point is ... this machine here in the video is one of the best inverter machines and there is really cheap and shitty ones out there too .... it is impossible to say in general ALL inverter machines are good or ALL inverter machines are bad .... it depends on the circuitry, the components used, the software programming ...... some of this is brand and price related .... and other things are not .... generally speaking MOST (not all of the time) with increased price comes a better machine and also if you compare a $100 amazon brand stick inverter to a $3000 miller brand stick inverter ... they are likely to NOT perform identical ....
Maybe for someone but not for me …. Personally the best i have ever done is .080” = 2.0mm And that was pretty thin … I feel 1.5 would be REALLY CHALLENGING if it would be possible at all …. 1.0 mm i think is wishful phantasy …. Unless you have the worlds best machine and you are 50x more talented than me
Wow that's awesome welder I was just thinking what if they had someway to. Control the apps why you're wild on a stick wilder block a tig pedal man I wish I could afford one of these I'd weld 24 7
Hola, creo que hace falta probar esta maquina muchisimo más. En diferentes materiales y condiciones. Es una opción interesante frente a Fronius 180 Stick, por el tema de la capacidad de soldar con pulso con electrodo revestido. Allí es donde me gustaria mucho verla. En aluminio con electrodo, realmente es un proceso que se enfrenta ya sea con MIG o con TIG. Muchos saludos desde México.
Yes, its a great machine, I can weld 7018 vertical up 1/2" thick plate with a 1/2" gap (open root) easily with the pulse ... the arc dynamic is outstanding
Holy $#!t that guy is a professional. I am amazed 👏 that was beautiful, and I'm so pumped I'm going to burn some rods right now, but I'll be grabbing my torch first, reading the label on my electrodes box,and preheating my work. Wish me luck,may the God's of the Rods be with me, let my joints be strong, and penatration run deep.
If your fit up is really good i van weld as thin as .080” parent material thickness … Most higher end boats are .100” the cheaper ones are .080” …. Again, the hit up has to be good !!!! And you do need some practice ….
@@tadman3d arc dynamic is not on a spec sheet. Its like drivability on a car… there is no spec sheet either … The way how you test drive a car before you buy it and you either like it or not ….. arc dynamic is very similar ….. An indicator for arc dynamic could be if the machine is able to weld 6010…. BUT that is a weak indicator …. Welding with them will tell you what you need to know …. And different aluminum rods weld different too. Personally i like these MG brand rods a lot and i dont like the hobart rods …. And there are dozens of other brand rods out there i have zero experience with
but thats thick so no melt down so yeah you can do it , i challenge you or anyone o stick weld 0.7mm alumium .. i wonder if they have thin stuff in America ? because all i see is thick and it does not impress me , have you heard of aluminum fuel tanks ? tig only i hear..
I do pulse mig with 0.9mm wire on 0.7-1.0mm car doors, quarter panels, fenders, hoods …. About 3.0m/m wire feed rate… that is no problem …. 0.7mm aluminum can be pulse mig welded, tig welded or laser welded. It is just not a material thickness that leads itself to stick welding
pretty much yes. PPS means pulses per second Hz is the term used in physics to describe one or a numbers of cycles per second (a peak and a background completes a full cycle)
to not confuse people most big welding manufacturers refer to PPS when it is a pulse thing and Hz when it is an AC frequency thing. theoretically you can correctly use the term Hz with pulse but it might confuse people.
@@ZILAwelds Vielen Dank für die Tipps! Die Hoffnung stirbt nie. Hier ist es viel zu eng und die Freiheit wurde verboten. Den Söhnen sagte ich, ihr müsst Berufe erlernen, die man auch im Ausland braucht! Der Jüngere ist jetzt schon lange mit einer Deutsch-Amerikanerin zusammen, die werden wohl von hier frei kommen.
Lol 😂 the person that probably came up with tiggin or miggin aluminum in the outside is probably the idiot that has a “mobile welding business” and was using and spool gun while trying to weld 2 flanges in a dump truck bed (outside) and also was “fixing a rusted column” by putting and sleeve over the rusted area and welding it with 6010 going downward. this a very recognizable UA-camr came to our company to apply for a job here in Long Island NY and our boss interviewed the guy himself, his resume was probably 3 pages of lies and truth to be told when our boss gave him the first project to do not even 3 hours later the guy was fired on the spot.
no everyone who plays a welder on UA-cam can hold their own in real life ... LOL. UA-cam welders are measures in subscribers .... who has the most subscribers is the best welder .... so me - at only 14k subs ... I am not that good of a welder ... so dont take any advice from me
Amazing he takes the time to answer question for that alone will i subscribe to this channel.
Well, i try ! Thanks for the sub
@@ZILAwelds spoken like a true undercover super hero ! “The procedure that works is the CORRECT PROCEDURE “. ❤️🏴☠️🎥💯%👍🏻. You are the reason we have A. HTP 200 TLP it is phenomenal !
Ya that's Kool.
I'm digg'n this modern media madness.
Wait till you get so busy U-Tubeing you can't answer all your subscribers. Some U-Tubers I subscribe to make good money and sponsors.
Most at least give a thumbs up 👍...
This is one of the most honest and straight forward videos on stick welding aluminum that I have seen so far, thank you for sharing! I am a truck / heavy equipment mechanic and I never did much aluminum welding as I was always told you needed a MIG with a spool gun or TIG welder. Last year I purchased Hobart GR 303 trailer mounted welder, now thanks to your video I can get even more use out of it!
When I first started welding back in the early 70s my first Job was stick welding aluminum. It brings back old memories for sure.
Back in 62’ they put me on the underwater rig for the mars expedition. Man. Back on those mars oceans the toxicity of the water would catch on fire if we used spark or gas. So we had to heat our pipes by hand. It was hard getting the penetration right but you’ll have that on those big jobs
@joshsteinberg8534 what kind of rods/sticks did you prefer over the others?
indeed great job guys not many people use stick method for aluminum but you proved that with some good prep and preheat knowing your machine well you can achieve some great results nicely done
Glad you liked it!
Probably the single best aluminum stick welding video on UA-cam. The little HTP machine is absolutely badass. I am seriously considering buying one just because of it’s flexibility.
Thanks, I had some help on that video. as far as the machine. - I have welded with well over 50 different sick welding machines ... to only mentions a few miller xmt, Lincoln SAE200, Lincoln Vantage 400 ...and none of them has better arc dynamic than that little thing ... (and again arc dynamic is somewhat subjective - but never the less) a $16000 vantage 400 has more power but the stick arc is about the same, and the vantage doesn't have pulse options ... that machine is probably the most under appreciated machine out there ... this is not "just another stick inverter" ... this machine isn for the stick welding enthusiast ... arc dynamic out of this world.
@@ZILAwelds can you follow up this video with a stainless or cast iron video of the same machine?
@@jondavidmcnabb sure , Stainless I have to make a video ... cast iron check out these here.
ua-cam.com/video/lHaY99Te5ec/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/qIMQXrTIUYU/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/lrRZM74ULQQ/v-deo.html
I do a fair share of cast iron with this machine and I personally love it for that ! I have another cast video of a blower housing coming but its all talk no actual welding to be seen on video ....
Stainless I dont do as much but I can probably do a video ... in the next month or so ....
what type/thickness of stainless are you looking at ? what type of job ?
@@ZILAwelds have you ever tried the fronius transtig 210?
@@sbranham86 never welded with one - sorry
Looks like MG 405 Aluminum rod works well. NICE tutorial, THANKS
Great video and explanations about stick welding aluminum and the issues involved!
THANK YOU ! What a great video - - very much appreciated from a new welder from Canada. Very quick to the point and all the essentials! Cheers!
Glad it helped
Good video I being welding for 20 years u will never stop learning about welding that's what love about it saludos desde Baytown love ur video and thanks again
Thank you. Was wanting to add these rods to my repertoire but was finding the slag an absolute chore to clean up cause I was hittin it way soon. Thanks for the warm water trick I'll try that out sometime.
I am really having a hard time mastering these 4043 rods. I can't afford a tank of argon and no local vendors want to sell gas to hobby welders. So, I saw all these reviews of the electrode and the method, and I thought I would give it a go. Sanded my piece of 6061, preheated, and immediately wend hood down and struck an arc, which of course stuck immediately. Tried again. And again. I could strike an arc and it either sticks or I can't keep the arc going. I tried from minimum to maximum current, 40 to 170 amps. Tried DCEP first because that is what is recommended, and since it didn't work, tried DCEN, which didn't work either. I burnt up 20-odd rods and my piece just looks like a gaseous lava flow. I got about a half inch of recognizable weld bead, that's it. I know these things burn up fast but I just couldn't get the feed right. It either sticks or the arc breaks in a second or less. I am really thinking I am going to have to just forget about welding aluminum. I can stick weld mild steel just fine. Been doing that for 40 years. This aluminum is kicking my ass. All you guys make it look easy. Good aluminum, thorough preheat, clean surface, machine in good order, solid grround connection, I just can't make a bead to save my life. Using 3/32" 14" rods. Is there something I might be overlooking? My machine is 220 but it is a cheapie, does everything type machine. No hot start or any fancy features. Can't afforrd a better one. I guess I am just out of luck, huh?
what I have seen 8/10 times with inexpnsive stick welding machines is - the advertised or selected amperage is no where near what the actual output is ... as a rule of thump for stick welding, if the rod sticks. - you dont have enough amp yet ... I had a guy who came for a class, brought a 200 amp stick welder a lotus brand machine and he tries to weld 7018 ... 1/8" ... and he couldn't make it work ... when I welded with the machine I had it set at 194 amps ... and wen I meaured with a clamp amp meter what the actual output was it was barely 130 ... the machine welded good though ... I mean goo enough ....
what material thickness are you welding ? 3/32 rods can be tricky ... 1/8" run better in my mind .... and I f you are running gthose Hobart rods from the bog box store ... well ... you need a. better machine and a lot of talent to make those work .... Eutectics or MG rods run a lot smoother ...
@@ZILAwelds Thank you so much for replying! I would not be a bit surprised if max current is misrepresented. The thing is, I can run beads with 7018, 6011, etc in mild steel just fine with this machine, and if I take my time I can get decent penetration in 1/4" mild steel bar. 1/8" thick angle iron, easy sneezy. So it isn't THAT much exaggerated. Of course I get way less sticking of the 4043 rods with it cranked up, but then I just can't keep the arc going. The piece I was trying to run a bead on was 1/4" x 2" 6061 bar stock. I preheated well past spit frrying temp, up to very faint incandescence, with my stinger ready to go and my helmet already on my head, so literally only a couple of seconds between the preheat and first attempt at running a bead. I wasn't trying to weld two pieces together, or get good penetration on the first go, just strike an arc and run a bead, and work out what settings, angle, etc I need to use.
Not Hobart. You will probably do a face palm here.
www.amazon.com/S%C3%9CA-Aluminum-E4043-Stick-Electrode/dp/B08WWW63N1/ref=rvi_sccl_5/147-5592536-5396433?content-id=amzn1.sym.f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pd_rd_i=B08WYCGT7B&th=1
I also have some 1/8" in the same brand, and I will try them tomorrow morning if I can get out there before it starts getting too hot. My budget for the month is DONE. Maybe I will try the two brands you like, next month. I will see if I have some thinner aluminum to try on, too. I know I have some 1" square tube somewhere, with 1/16" or thereabouts wall thickness. The thing is, in steel, that is getting right about at the limit of how thin I can weld without blowing holes in my work. But in for a dime, in for a dollar. I'll give it a go.Maybe pick up a piece of 1/8" aluminum at Lowe's tomorrow.
Try 1/8" rods. 3/32 burn hotter in my experience with welding altogether
What is the problem if tugstain is sticking to the piece and won’t let go but also won’t arc?
tungsten does not stick to aluminum, it leaves essentially a void, zero strength, a build in weak point, leak point, point of origin for a future failure.
Great video. Temperature of the material is very important.
Question
Can aluminum be hand brush painted after it has been welded?
yes - but you should check with your paint supplier for what paint you have to use for aluminum or if you have to use a primer first .... now I think I remember (but DONT hold me to it) Sherwin Williams has a product called DTM (direct to metal) and you can brush that on without and special primer .... but again ... talk to your paint guy to find out who paint for aluminum he recommends ...
Nice work guys. I wouldn't never used these electrode, but now I would be interested in giving them a go if the chance arises.
so glad you did this with that HTP machine. I have the exact same one and need to weld aluminum plates to my aluminum carport stanchions. I’m looking forward to using your tips to at least make the parts stick enough to do the job. Thanks!
Good luck!
Man that’s cool. I haven’t tried stick aluminum. Seemed to lay down really well. 👍🏼
everything looks easier on UA-cam .... LOL
I just burned a pack of Aluminum Electrodes I definitely recommend just practicing just padding beads then go from there ..I went straight to the T -joint
& it was not like the TV..haha ....lmao it was fun though !
@@youtubeisfullofspam7068 its not "intuitive" if you are used to 7018 but its not terrible hard and undoable either .... its just different ... the rods burn faster a lot faster (especially without pulse) and its all heat driven ... preheat is your friend .... and having options to adjust during the weld may be helpful but are definitely not a must
How do you weld vertical with it? My friend is planning to weld prototype boat with it and by all my knowledge about stick and aluminium it might be very difficult to get penetration or not to melt it. Would you rather go downhill? Can you actually run uphill on thicker aluminium blocks?
According to the little picture with the arrows on the spec sheet its vertical UP
Clean weld area. Parts 1/8" or heavier should be beveled 70°-90°. No preheat is necessary on thin gauges but/
faster, flatter, smoother welds are produced on heavier sections if they are preheated to approximately 400°F. Hold electrode vertical to workpiece, maintain a short arc and fast travel speed. Use either stringer beads or
weaving technique. Remove slag between passes. Restart arc on existing weld deposits.
Allow part to cooll slowly. Chip off all slag before quenching. For complete slag removal use a wire brush with a 10% sulfuric acid
and hot water solution. Rinse with clean hot water.
Send me your email address and i will email you the spec sheet
Nice instructions. I'll try it with it my mini arch welder.
What are some good electrodes that arnt that expensive. I’m 15 so don’t have a big budget but I mainly use 1/8 inch 6011 and 7018
for steel or for aluminum ? for aluminum there are no cheap rods at all ... dent aluminum rods are from $30-45 ish per lbs ..... electrodes for steel ? 7018 is a good rod as far as cheap? well. Lincoln Excalibur welds nice Messer MG7018 welds just as nice ... then Esab atom arc 7018 and far don on my personal list is Hobart 7018 ... and then you can buy a bunch of Radom stuff everywhere else ... and those are sometimes hit most of the time miss .... my expericene to get a good price you need to buy like 50 lbs .... if you buy in 5,10 or 11 lbs boxes you pay about $3.50-$4.00 per lbs nowadays. .... if you buy a 50 lbs pack you can get pricing as good as $2.50 per lbs ... if you buy it locally you pay sale tax and if you get it shipped to you you might or might not pay sales tax but at $2.50 per lbs you do pay shipping which comes out to be about $0.50-0.75 per lbs on a 50 lbs box depends on where you live and where it ships from ....
Found you from Sam Crac and I’m looking forward to checking out your channel! I work in a body and have seen some crazy welds.
Thanks for coming
I bought a 160 amp arc welder to weld 1/4 in motor bracket to my bike frame. I used 1/8 in al rode. Was never able to weld strong enough - the piece would come apart with a small punch!! The issue was that I never was able to create a liquid pool and the rode would always stick to the piece. I did preheat to about 200f. I tried more heat and increased the amp up to the max of 160 A. Nothing worked. Any idea what I am doing wrong? Thanks
Swap negatives and positive
To weld with an Aluminum Coated Electrode, your welding machine must have an Alternating Current output voltage, if it is not Alternating current the welding will not be good. Most welding inverters have direct current output voltage.
You need AC alternating current to have a good opening of the electric arc and form a good melting pool..
greetings here from Brazil
These electrodes are designed for DCEP ... 100% cleaning ... if you swap polarity you will be in a world of trouble .... AC is according to the rod manufacture NOT an option
Cheers, great video! I want to weld a canopy for a ute this way, welding a frame from 0.2" thick box section and then welding aluminum sheet onto the frame. Would it be possible to stick weld 0.04" sheet lap join onto 0.2" frame?
Well, that is 1mm sheet …. The thinnest i ever aluminum stick welded with a pulse stick welder was 2mm …. I am fairly certain that i am not good enough to weld 1mm …. Probably not even 1.5 mm …. The 2mm i welded was only possible (at least in my mind” because i had pulse stick …
The frame is not a problem at that thickness
You will just have to rivet the sheets on or use UHB tape …
@@ZILAwelds Yeah alright cheers for that, will stick to rivets
I like it y'all just made my day super cool
Could this be done with a Lincoln AC/DC tombstone stick welder? Or does this require the adjustability for inverter machines?
theoretically any DC stick welder would work .... that being said with alumunm rods it comes in handy to really dial the amperage in closely maybe even start with a little higher amperage then taper down as the material heats up ... the Lincoln welder you are talking about does things in steps ... step of 10 ir 15 amps ? so you might just get lucky that one fits "perfect" but if it doesn't then ...??? you get the idea
Will my old big Lincoln welder work for aluminium welding? I tried welding with it and it didn't work, from your wideo I've learned that I needed to pre heat the welding surface, plus my rods were old and corroded. So if I get new sticks and pre heat the area will it work? I dont have much features like your welder does.
id your welder a AC or DC welder ...? for those aluminum rods you need a DC stick welder
@@ZILAwelds its a DC machine
@@Rhino5.0 if its a DC machine - try it out ! the only thing you are lacking is "fine adjustment" on the amperage ...
Can i use a 3/32 7018 rod on a motorbike frame?
I dont know ... I used 3/32 down to .080" material thickness .... which is about the lowest I feel is possible.... and it requires some practice ... how thick is your frame ?
Great video. I will teaching my self to weld aluminum, yes I know bad idea. I need to build an aluminum frame for a duck blind and other boat projects. Would you recommend I go with stick, tig, or a spool gun?. I know broad questions, but I need to choose one and buy a rig. Then teach myself on scraps until I get it. I can't afford to buy a built blind . One brand I am copying is bustem blinds if you want to Google that, but they use steel conduit. In my salt water environment, aluminum is better. Opinion's or welcomed.
Spool gun or tig is probably “easier” than stick, but a higher up front investment ….
Any process you pick will be “good enough” for your application
@@ZILAwelds thank you
Whats the plates minimum thickness for this aluminium stick rod?
1/8” rod without pulse 3/16 …. Maybe 1/8” if you are either good or lucky
3/32 rods 1/8” should be very obtainable even without pulse …. Maybe even thinner … 0.090”
Great video, Thanks for the important info. I do not need to do structural welding, I need to just build up an area on my aluminum transmission where the top tab broke off. Is the preheating necessary for just a build up of welds. Or is it needed for the initial bond of the stick to the housing? Or just when two pieces of aluminum are welded together? Thanks for any information.
You need to pre hear a little to get a “good bite”
Then as things heat up and you want to build it will be a long process if letting every pass cool back down to a temperature where you can almost touch it with your bare hands and then after the previous pass us clean and cold you weld the next pass
@@ZILAwelds thank you. That's going to help me a lot, great bit of information and helpful.
What about vertical. What direction pf travel? Also are you whipping or dragging?
I drag a little .. textbook says almost perpendicular ... stringers preferred weave ok ..... only whip at the end to fill crater, go vertical up !
Where can buy these aluminum electrodes from?
usaweld.com/products/messer-mg-405-stick-welding-rod?_pos=1&_sid=132fbbcef&_ss=r&variant=27876713627731
Hi 👋 Friend! Great 👍 interesting 🤨 information ℹ️ on MG 405 and hot start. Thank you 🙏
Will a 220 v AC stick welder work with aluminum rods?
It needs to be a DC welder !!!
Will doing this damge my motorcycle engine? I just want a tiny weld to hold in a exhaust stud
make sure that your motorcycle engine is really aluminum ... not a magnesium casting ... and then. -if it is aluminum it should all work out ...
@ZILAwelds thank you means alot to get a straight answer 👍👍
Great video.. 😎👍👍 for me it was real helpful
Glad it helped
Could we weld a automobile cyl8nder using HTP 200?
I would say yes
Great vid, no option but stick right now
Iam welder man for more than 16 years. Pls i need work in your country.
My man! Well done 👍🏾
Great vid !
So if understood correctly, it is easier to stickweld 1/4 inch ( about 6mm) alumimium than lets say 2mm thick ?
2mm thick is .080” that is the very minimum i am capable of doing …. And i prefer to use 3/32 rods for that but it can be done with 1/8” rods if i use pulse ….
Generally speaking … a little thicker might help and be more forgiving …. Too thick is harder again ….
Look at ua-cam.com/video/qKtbB8FMrKE/v-deo.html around 4:50 ….
Would a cheap basic 150 amp Amazon stick welder with no remote or any other adjustment still work or does one need those little features Great video also.
theoretically YES in reality you need "good arc dynamic" ... arc dynamic is not shown in any spec sheet ... average is "meaningless" ... if your machine runs 6010 typically it has good or greg arc dynamic .... some machines can not even run 6011 or 7018 ... their arc dynamic lacks so much that the only rod you can run is 6013 .... if that is the case it will be a lot harder to run aluminum rods for you .... the better arc dynamic you have the better all rods (also aluminum) run
@@ZILAwelds Thanks very kindly for your reply and good info.
Could I weld back a cracked automobile rim with this rod
doubt it ... it is very thin ... I mean ... with some copper backing you could ... never say never ... it would not be my first choice but if was stranded somehow and I had to stick wed that aluminum rin or walk home ... I guess I wouldn't be walking .... LOL
@@ZILAwelds lol thanks man. Bless
1:16 sound goes out. no/extremely low muddled sound. 5:55 sound comes back on.
am i the only one with this problem?
doesn't seem to be my system... so just wondering.
try ob a different computer ... works just fine for me - no copyrighted music or anything so there shouldn't be problem ... UA-cam is goofy like that sometimes ..
I got a normal stick welder, usually weld carbon steel by stick 6013,so can I use this machine for aluminum stick 1/8 4043 thanks
Yes it will work
@@ZILAwelds thank u
Can you run it vertically? And if so, is it uphill or downhill?
according to the spec sheet uphill, I have not down it personally but the spec sheet says it can be done ... if you cant me to email you a copy give me your email address and I will send it to you
Awesome video.
Am in namibia and i would love to be taught at your school
Will these rods work vertical?
Yes they do
Excellent Teaching ✅👍✨
Thank you! 😃
Hi Mr Zola Thanks for sharing.
I need advice from you.
How many amperes are needed to weld a 4 mm thick material with stick welding 3/32 ?
The amperage is usually determined mainly my rod diameter and type.
3/32 7018 80-90 amps
3/32 6010/11/13 55-70 amps
3/32 stainless and aluminum rods 60-75 amp
Thank you very much Mr Zila.
Do you just run it straight or can you oscillate
Straight.
I suppose if you lower your amps a little bit and you are really good and really fast you could probably oscillate a little bit
Yea it works grate in a classroom environment with the fancy extra tools but the real test would be in a field situation where you have less than ideal circumstances, plain ole gass/desil machine and thiner material in a position where you couldn't get oil paint ect off and no option for pre heating how good does it preform. Educational video for sure but its not a real world situation
If you can't take the time to prep, then most welding will be bad, no matter the setting.
I welded these rods on aluminum water tanker trucks in the field in a 30 mph wind .... it works ! does it look as nice as in this video - no, of course not but it looks ok, nothing to ba ashamed off and it holds water, no leaks
Do i have to have an inverter welder or will my transformer welder amd turbine welders work
“Good” inverter machines will work, a transformer will work too
Without pulse it will burn faster but still work
@@ZILAwelds thank you sir. I will try to find some of these rods locally and give it a go. God bless.
can this method be used on marine outboards cast aluminum? i do not have access to tig or mig. i do have a small inverter stick welder ingco 160 amp. if the pieces im welding is thin can i tack then chip slag then tack again until i complete the length of the area i need welded? that way i dont melt the entire piece? i need your professional advice.
@@pauls330 theoretically you can use this rod for aluminum castings. If your inverter is “good enough” I don’t know. The approach of tack and chip slag does not sound like a winning strategy….. you need some preheat and you also do better with longer ish welds….
@@ZILAwelds what i mean by tack and chip is like spot welding. tack a few spots then chip the flux off then tack few more spots and chip flux again until all is welded. im talking about thin cast aluminum. i would not want the entire thing to melt.
@@pauls330 well. If it is that thin, maybe this is not the right process…. With 3/32” rods I can weld as this as 1/8”. And you would want to weld a continuous weld, aluminum, even cast is nothing like cast iron…. Also,you need heat for the slag to release correctly …. Chipping and wire brushing will only get you so far …. Hot water, a stiff nylon brush and maybe some dawn will help you get remaining “slag” off …. This is nothing like steel welding
Thank you so much. I will definitely remember your advice.
You have to change polarity on the machine ? Because I think my machine can not
DCEP
What types or code the electrode do you use
MG405 you can find it on USAWELD.com
Can this welder weld cast aluminum wheels/rims If I double bevel and preheat?
Century by Lincoln Electric Inverter Arc 230 DC Arc Welder - Inverter, 230 Volts, 10-155 Amp Output, Model# K2790-2
50 amp!
And can I use a generator? (5500 running watts/ 45 amp).
be really careful with double beveling rims ... they are very thin to begin with and you need a certain thickness to weld aluminum ... if you dont have that thickness you need a copper spoon for backing ....
I am not sure on your welder and generator it makes not too much sense ..... looks like the welder is a 230 volt welder ..... I dont know why the output is so low 10-155 amps ... either way that would be a good range to weld aluminum rods with, I would suggest using 3/32 for thin stuff like rims
usaweld.com/collections/stick-rod/products/messer-mg-405-stick-welding-rod
as far as the generator ... 5500 watt and 45 amps ... that would make sense if your generator has 110 volt output .... since your machine is 230 volt input I would say (whiteout seeing the machines or knowing more about it) you dont have "the right" set up ....
tried this earlier today but all I got was the sticking and no puddle start. after I put everything away, I realized I didn't try reversing the polarity. stick plugging into the neg and the ground clamp on positive on the 200amp stick inverter mini welder? If this is what I did wrong let me know for trying to weld aluminum pieces together.
you need DCEP that is stinger in + ground in - if you do it the other way around nothing will work, no cleaning action at all either
Ok then it was hooked up right just not working right? I had it up to 125 amps before I got a spark and kept turning up to get a puddle? Never happened. This was trying to weld on a outboard motor skeg fin. Grd was on fin that was bare aluminum no paint. 1954 maybe not good metal?
@@TimsWorkshopTJY maybe, but unlikely .... what I see more often than not is the read outs on these inexpensive machines being "off" .... I had a client who owned a lotos stick welder (200 amp machine) and he was trying to weld regular 7018 1/8" Lincoln Excalibur and it was not working at all ... the guy cam over to my shop with his machine and the trouble description was very similar to yours: "it just sticks, it is not welding" .....
I said if it sticks the amperage is too low, he said: cant be I am already at 140 amp !!!
so I tried it and I kept dialing it up and dialing it up and eventually it welded nice (ish) at 194 AMPS !!!! the guy said this is crazy !!!! I put my clamp amp meter around the ground and measured ..... 128 amp reading on the meter. 194 amp on the readout of the machine ... well - you be the judge ... on all other beaches that meter is within 2-5 amps ... it felt like 128 amps it welded like 128 amps there meter read 128 amps .... so maybe .....
if the rod is sticking. DIAL IT UP !!!!! if you have spatter flying all over the place, dial it down .... that is the basics of stick welding ... I am NOT a stick welding genius, I dont have all the answers ... but those 2 rules have proven to hold true most of the time for me ....
also sidenote: inverters that dont run 6010 will have a much harder time with these aluminum rods as the "good inverters" ... that is juts the nature of the beast.
I have use it on steel and it burns great, so I realized that I had the ground clamp on the part I was trying to weld on the main aluminum structure that had a slight gap between parts. I think I will clean up an area on the main part for the grd clamp and try it again but full up on the amps.
Take into consideration that the cheaper welders only have 60 percent duty so you have to turn your amperage up to weld efficiently
Hello. Please it is always necessary to warm it up before welding? I have to weld aluminium construction outside on open air at heigh 5 meters so it will be complicated...
You dont have to do anything.
If you dont preheat or for the first 5-10 sec of your weld raise your amperage significantly it will a cold, ugly, bumpy and lumpy weld with possible improper penetration
@@ZILAwelds Ahaaa. So if I will raise my amperage (how much...20%?) it will be ok without pre-heat? And could I ask you...is it possible to weld with TIG outside if wind is lower than 5-10 miles per hour?
Thank you very much!!
@@tomas12912 20% additional amperage for the first few seconds will help you a lot it is the 2nd best thing if you cannot pre heat. will it be ok ? yes I should be ok, preheat would be ideal. raising average makes it ok.
it is possible to tig weld outside ...
my personal experience is : I try to block out the wind with heavy welding or moving blankets.... if I can not block the wind out here are my pseronal limits for wind ( and your will fay a little bit
tig welding up to 5 mph at best
mig welding up to 10 miles per hour
gas shielded flux cored 15
gases flux cored and stick ... 40+ mph ....
tig is really sensitive ...!!!
alumunm mig is also more sensitive as "regular" (steel) mig but better then tig
@@ZILAwelds Wow. Thank you so much! I just made huge gathering informations about aluminium welding and I found out problem with strength decrease due to raising temperatures due to welding. More than 200 °C is going to be problem with AlMgSi0.5, AlMgSi1 e.g. and it will lost about 40% of its original strength due to phases changes. And this is also problem which I am solving. AlMg4.5Mn0.7 looks like very good aluminium alloy for welding because it is durable against this heat-strength decrease but it is not common and I didn't find square tubes made of it 🤦♂️🤷♂️😵😤
@@tomas12912 CORRECT !!! I have plenty of videos on this !
Aluminum welding destroys the heat treat and artificial aging and takes out 30-70% of the strength depending on what type of base alloy you have and what heat treat you have ….
Would like to be able to buy one of these htp machines in Australia
Hi Phillip. Did you find any info on an Aussie version of this htp/Stel pulse stick welder. I couldn't find any info so if you know anything could you please let me know. Cheers
@@martynohara8101 not yet trying to get something decent but it’s been hard to find
I like the Miller also
they dont have dealers in Australia ... you need to buy a unit from Stel in Italy or HTP in the usa and have it shipped to you
@@ZILAwelds Hi do you have a contact in the USA?
@@phillipanderson9925 email the owner of htp … that way you dont get any runaround
Jnoland@htpweld.com
How are these rods called please?
usaweld.com/products/messer-mg-405-stick-welding-rod
How abt thinner aluminium metal?
@@mrb3788 I welded as thin as .080" aluminum with stick ...
Can you stick weld aluminum on ac mould?
NO DEEP ONLY !!!
Ok so I watched this video, and others, i thought hey that looks useful, so i bought a cheap 180A inverter (no pulse controls or arc force) welder and a box of 4043 3/32 and cleaned and pre heated the hell out of a piece of aluminium the same kind my boat is made of. Now let me say, I have many many years of stick welding xp with big 500 amp diesel welders up from 3/32" up to 1/4", 7018, 6010, 7014 overhead gap filling etc, and damn I couldn't and still simply CAN NOT get a bead going with this 4043. I sticks and or splutters out as soon as I get anything going. Any Ideas what im doing wrong? Is it my welder? Is it humidity in the rods? Is it the type of aluminium? I only know its probably a marine alloy. The only difference in amp from 60 right up to the 180 max is the size and adhesion of the single ball i melt off the rod and then splutter nothing. Keep in mind i just wanted to weld a chair on the back deck, nothing life and death. Is it easier to maintain an arc with say 1/8 or another rod? What the hell am i doing wrong!?
>>Great Outdoor World of Mines & Resources
Ok so I watched this video, and others, i thought hey that looks useful, so i bought a cheap 180A inverter >(no pulse controls or arc force) welder and a box of 4043 3/32 >and cleaned and pre heated the hell out of a piece> of aluminium the same kind my boat is made of.> Now let me say, I have many many years of stick welding xp with big 500 amp diesel welders up from 3/32" up to 1/4", 7018, 6010, 7014 overhead gap filling etc, and damn I couldn't and still simply CAN NOT get a bead going with this 4043.> I sticks >and or splutters out as soon as I get anything going>. Any Ideas what im doing wrong? Is it my welder? > Is it humidity in the rods?
@@ZILAwelds Thank you for your time and response, I am welding 3/8" thick angle and a few other random pieces around trying to find every alloy I can. I preheat with mapp torch until the water fades, just like i watched in your videos. I dont thing this is a pre heat problem as I should get something running regardless of penetration. The rods are AirLiquide alcord 5si 4043 and i put them in my oven at 120 C for an hour, still no luck. I think it is the welder. I will try 6010 on steel and see if it can do that, I was having some very nice results with some 3/32 308 stainless welding 1/8 tubing.
Why will 4043 not weld marine alloy is this relate to my arc stability problem or a strength thing? My machine is Bormann 240v 27.2v at 180 amp. (I am in EU)
I will try to find some 5000 type rods in 1/8 and just try this. I will also try to push the rod faster but so far it is behaving like welding steel with bare rod haha.
@@GreatOutDoorWorldofMines your main problem is rod diameter …. I have a hard time welding 1/4” with 3/32” rods …. For 3/8” for sure you need 1/8” maybe 5/32 (4mm)
If you dont have enough rod diameter you dont have enough heat …. Cold “balls” of molten aluminum dripping or rolling around just as you described
4043 is ALSI5 For marine grade you need ALMG?? You need the magnesium …. If you weld a high magnesium base ally with ALSI5 it might also just “drip” and nor want to join right …. I have experienced that myself before with mig
Well, good luck !
@@ZILAwelds I am determined to get it working, I will update with results.
Well in the end I came to the conclusion that the welder was just junk or at least did not have the settings required to get results with aluminium stick. I ended up replacing it with a larger MIG machine and have had excellent results. It also has stick weld and I was able to get decent results with aluminium using that just as a test control. So the takeaway for me is, if you're thinking about welding aluminium stick, buy a decent MIG or TiG set-up with stick capability, with the features you need to get stick working. You can use the MIG for projects, and the stick in a pinch where no argon is available.
Nice welds.
Esse tipo de Eletrodo revestido é próprio para ser usado em maquinas de solda Tipo Inversora de Corrente DC , Geralmente essas Maquinas de Solda Inversora de Corrente DC são as mais Baratas do Mercado , dai a necessidade de se usar um Eletrodo Especifico para Ela ..
ALL welding stick machines sold new int he last 10 years ALL have been inverter machines ....! very cheap ones and the most expensive ones ....."they" have not sold a stick welding transformer machine in over a decade .... so I dont know what your point is ... this machine here in the video is one of the best inverter machines and there is really cheap and shitty ones out there too .... it is impossible to say in general ALL inverter machines are good or ALL inverter machines are bad .... it depends on the circuitry, the components used, the software programming ...... some of this is brand and price related .... and other things are not .... generally speaking MOST (not all of the time) with increased price comes a better machine and also if you compare a $100 amazon brand stick inverter to a $3000 miller brand stick inverter ... they are likely to NOT perform identical ....
can used evaporator?
no idea
Is it possible to stick weld 1mm Ali?
Maybe for someone but not for me …. Personally the best i have ever done is .080” = 2.0mm
And that was pretty thin … I feel 1.5 would be REALLY CHALLENGING if it would be possible at all …. 1.0 mm i think is wishful phantasy …. Unless you have the worlds best machine and you are 50x more talented than me
Wow that's awesome welder I was just thinking what if they had someway to. Control the apps why you're wild on a stick wilder block a tig pedal man I wish I could afford one of these I'd weld 24 7
Now do a pontoon repair
with stick rods ??? maybe if your pontoon is .100" thick and if you use 3/32 rods then maybe ...
What is the stik rod code nomber
its a repair rod there is no code number .... the manufacture is MG and the rod is 405
It feels illegal to weld with those rods
Hola, creo que hace falta probar esta maquina muchisimo más. En diferentes materiales y condiciones. Es una opción interesante frente a Fronius 180 Stick, por el tema de la capacidad de soldar con pulso con electrodo revestido. Allí es donde me gustaria mucho verla. En aluminio con electrodo, realmente es un proceso que se enfrenta ya sea con MIG o con TIG.
Muchos saludos desde México.
Yes, its a great machine, I can weld 7018 vertical up 1/2" thick plate with a 1/2" gap (open root) easily with the pulse ... the arc dynamic is outstanding
Holy $#!t that guy is a professional. I am amazed 👏 that was beautiful, and I'm so pumped I'm going to burn some rods right now, but I'll be grabbing my torch first, reading the label on my electrodes box,and preheating my work. Wish me luck,may the God's of the Rods be with me, let my joints be strong, and penatration run deep.
LOL
Those “gods” u praying too are the fallen angels. Let that resonate
Anyone ever stick welded aluminum for pontoon repair? Not mobile with AC Tig setup.
If your fit up is really good i van weld as thin as .080” parent material thickness …
Most higher end boats are .100” the cheaper ones are .080” ….
Again, the hit up has to be good !!!!
And you do need some practice ….
You probably also meed 3/32 rods
@@ZILAwelds thanks for the reply, yes i think i grab a couple .080 coupons for a couple practice runs.
@@ryanpierce8372 usaweld.com/products/messer-mg-405-stick-welding-rod
3/32
Can you do this on a cheap DC stick under 200amp welder?
Theoretically yes. It depends on the arc dynamic of the machine and your skill level
This machine here makes an average talented guy look great!
@@ZILAwelds is there a specific arc dynamic type or keyword I should search for? I can only afford a 2-300$ welder
@@tadman3d arc dynamic is not on a spec sheet. Its like drivability on a car… there is no spec sheet either …
The way how you test drive a car before you buy it and you either like it or not ….. arc dynamic is very similar …..
An indicator for arc dynamic could be if the machine is able to weld 6010…. BUT that is a weak indicator …. Welding with them will tell you what you need to know …. And different aluminum rods weld different too. Personally i like these MG brand rods a lot and i dont like the hobart rods …. And there are dozens of other brand rods out there i have zero experience with
@@ZILAwelds ok thanks that's great advice. Could be the SUA rods I got are no good also.
@@ZILAwelds so i bought a titanium225. It does aluminum alright
Nice.. i like the Tig Slider thingy...😊
but thats thick so no melt down so yeah you can do it , i challenge you or anyone o stick weld 0.7mm alumium .. i wonder if they have thin stuff in America ? because all i see is thick and it does not impress me , have you heard of aluminum fuel tanks ? tig only i hear..
I do pulse mig with 0.9mm wire on 0.7-1.0mm car doors, quarter panels, fenders, hoods …. About 3.0m/m wire feed rate… that is no problem ….
0.7mm aluminum can be pulse mig welded, tig welded or laser welded. It is just not a material thickness that leads itself to stick welding
Awesome!
Glad you think so!
Schweißprofessor 👍👏🍻
Wow can we be friends
No music next time please
And i dont have to buy a spool gun! Yay
Maybe…. Spool gun is much faster and can be cleaner
Not bad!
Is the hertz the same as pps?
pretty much yes. PPS means pulses per second Hz is the term used in physics to describe one or a numbers of cycles per second (a peak and a background completes a full cycle)
to not confuse people most big welding manufacturers refer to PPS when it is a pulse thing and Hz when it is an AC frequency thing.
theoretically you can correctly use the term Hz with pulse but it might confuse people.
I have never stick welded aluminum pretty cool. I bet those rods are super cheap too haha.
not too horrible as far as price ... lie $30 per lbs or something .... cheaper if you buy a 5 lbs box ....
You sound to me as you are able to speak German?
Stefan, ich bin vor 19 jahren aus deutschland gefluechtet !
@@ZILAwelds Gratuliere! Ich habs auch versucht, aber keine Green Card!
@@stefanmargraf7878 dann musst du 150.000 Dollar mitbringen und ein Geschäft hier aufmachen oder jemanden hier heiraten ….
@@ZILAwelds Vielen Dank für die Tipps! Die Hoffnung stirbt nie. Hier ist es viel zu eng und die Freiheit wurde verboten. Den Söhnen sagte ich, ihr müsst Berufe erlernen, die man auch im Ausland braucht! Der Jüngere ist jetzt schon lange mit einer Deutsch-Amerikanerin zusammen, die werden wohl von hier frei kommen.
To me it’s better with tig welding
in a shop YES but outside in the wind - this is the only solution
Lol 😂 the person that probably came up with tiggin or miggin aluminum in the outside is probably the idiot that has a “mobile welding business” and was using and spool gun while trying to weld 2 flanges in a dump truck bed (outside) and also was “fixing a rusted column” by putting and sleeve over the rusted area and welding it with 6010 going downward.
this a very recognizable UA-camr came to our company to apply for a job here in Long Island NY and our boss interviewed the guy himself, his resume was probably 3 pages of lies and truth to be told when our boss gave him the first project to do not even 3 hours later the guy was fired on the spot.
no everyone who plays a welder on UA-cam can hold their own in real life ... LOL.
UA-cam welders are measures in subscribers .... who has the most subscribers is the best welder .... so me - at only 14k subs ... I am not that good of a welder ... so dont take any advice from me
Who ? Give me another hint please! Lol
In other words, if our machine has no pulse, it wont work. 😢
It works without pulse …. You just have to weld so much faster …. It becomes much more controllable with pulse
Music lol a little to dramatic
your voice is low man
Necesito beads zila
I mean nice
Never trust a welder with clean gloves 🧤. Lol
I hear you ! unless its stainless, aluminum or titanium ...
What if you come I'm the day I break out fresh gloves🤔🤔🤔🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
"Aluminum"? really? aparently YES. Is correct..but sounds wired. :)