How To Install Your Fastway e2 Round Bar Sway Control / Weight Distribution Hitch*
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- Опубліковано 29 чер 2016
- *For an updated and shorter version of this installation follow this link • Fastway e2™ Round Bar ...
A complete installation of the Fastway® e2™ Round Bar weight distribution and sway control hitch.
www.fastwaytrailer.com/e2-hitch
Download the e2 Round Bar owner's manual to follow along here:
www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals
The correct set up of your e2 hitch will give you the best sway control and weight distribution. This video will show how to:
- Level the trailer.
- Get the correct shank with the proper drop or rise.
- Set the hitch head/hitch ball at the correct height.
- Correct placement of the brackets on the trailer frame.
- Check and adjust the weight distribution setup.
- Check and adjust the trailer pitch/attitude to tow level.
- Final tightening.
Download the e2 Round Bar owner's manual to follow along here: www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals
NOTE: The 1-3/4" socket mentioned in the tools section of the video should instead be a 1-7/8" socket.
Find an e2 hitch dealer near you:
www.fastwaytrailer.com/find-a...
Come find us on your favorite social media platform:
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I’m so glad I found this video. In General, having your RV dealer install these doesn’t mean it’s done correctly.
True! It's always good to double check your hitch before each tow!
Very helpful, thank you. My dealer set it up when I bought the trailer, but I bought a new truck, so this is going to help me tremendously to re-configure.
Great video. I bought this hitch when we got our camper 2 years ago. We sold our Wrangler that they set it up for and now we have have a Tacoma and it is very informative to setting it up to the new truck.
This video was very helpful. I did not have the owners manual for my fastway E2 system. I've got useful info. from video.
Great video! And I like the bloopers at the end.
Very good explanation. To the point, great video! Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.
I just fit my E2Fastway WDH it has made a huge difference. Excellent...more stability and better control to front tyres, which makes for a more comfortable and confident towing experience. Thank you for the video it really helped.
+craig weir,
Thanks for the comment! Glad it's performing well for you.
very helpful video - now I just have to figure out if I want to own a crazy huge torque wrench... the outtakes were a nice touch.
elektronen,
Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching!
Nah. 460 ft pounds = really tight.
That's a great system, very informative, thanks for sharing
Thanks, Robert!
dude that was awesome ! great explanation.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this install video. Very helpful
You're welcome!
Nice job of explaining this setup...
Thanks for watching!
great video. This hitch was previously installed but I didn't know how to properly adjust. Thank you
Glad it helped!
Nice presentation. Very Helpful. Clearly understood.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice job you did a good job explaining the steps thanks
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the instructional video. Great design, just saw they are available in Australia and I have just purchased an E2 Round Bar hitch.
+craig weir,
You're welcome! Keep in touch, we'd love to hear about your experience using the new hitch.
Thanks for the out takes...
+Mike Niehues,
You're welcome! Hope you got a good chuckle, or maybe even a guffaw.
Thanks again David
Outtakes on an instructional video! Nice
+Gale Hess,
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed them.
If you are watching this and thinking of buying from Amazon, get one with the ball already installed. I tried to save a few bucks and it cost me time, sanity and money.
Nice job learned a lot reset my hitch today on my keystone passport 268 BH I like the e2 round bar I have a 8000 my trailer tops out at 7400 pounds
Glad the video helped!
Thanks for the video, Camping World installed mine wrong.
You’re welcome. Glad you were able to get it set up correctly. Sorry to hear that you were not happy with the original install. Our goal is always safe and happy customers, and because of that, we focus a lot of effort on getting dealerships trained well. We’ll keep trying. If you ever need any help installing or adjusting your hitch, please reference the support page on our website [www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals], or contact our customer support team: 877-523-9103 or support@fastwaytrailer.com.
My RV dealer installed this weight distribution hitch on my new 29' Keystone Passport. I watched the technician do it. I do not recall that he used a torque wrench for any of the nut tightening. And although the area was fairly level, it was not perfectly level and was not paved or concrete. I do not recall that he ever measured the height of the RV frame. His only check to determine that the hitch was installed correctly was to compare the distance between the front tire and front fender edge with the distance between the rear tire and the rear fender edge.
I was used to pulling a smaller RV with a different weight distribution hitch. By comparison, this setup felt much less stable on the road. Steering was less positive. I was not sure if the difference was due to the fact that this is a larger RV or that perhaps the weight distribution was not optimal. I am inclined to re-install it.
I just experienced this exact same scenario with my recent purchase of my 26ft Mini Lite. I'm getting sway with wind and semi-truck passes, and knew when the technician was doing the camper tutorial with me, he mentioned a remark, "what's the camper weigh, 4800lbs?" That told me right there that he probably/did generically installed the E2 WDH, as the camper weighs 6200 dry. I'm needing to check my pitch, and also make adjustments to the sway/distribution bars as I've got quite a bit of sag in the rear. 2022 Rockwood Mini Lite 2615S towed with a 2021 Ford PowerBoost Crew Cab.
Awsum video
We love our E2 Sway Control / Weight Distribution Hitch system. On our second travel trailer and second tow vehicle now and it was easy to adjust. Can we link to you in an upcoming video we plan on doing with your brnad?
Of course! You can also find us on all of the other social media channels as well!
Good, helpful info.
Thanks for watching!
I had the system fitted oct 2022 by the caravan dealer after using the H/R WDH before .
Must say its a big improvement over the Hayman Reece WDH.
One thing tho is it normal fir the friction points on the L bracket to show signs of a brown colour ( rust)?
I rang my dealer and he said its ok but do not put anything oner the friction pads like silicon spray/ wd40 ect
A little bit of rust is normal, especially if your hitch is left outside in the rain or bad weather! Thankfully there are ways to spruce up your hitch, including sanding down the rust and repainting!
The hitch made a huge difference on my setup and I didn’t even have it setup completely. I did have an issue with incorrect parts and a bad experience with their customer service. One of the shank bolts was wrong and was below any decent grade bolt (ended up completely stripping the threads before I got any near torque specs). I called and the person I spoke to seemed new because he had no idea what I was talking about and I could hear someone coaching him on what to say. He asked where I bought it from and was told to contact Amazon since I bought it from them. I explained how this had nothing to do with how it was shipped but everything to do with quality control from the manufacturer. In the end, I was told that I could package it back up and return to Amazon, go buy the correct bolt myself, or they could ship the correct part BUT their shipping was going to be down for a few days.
Not a good experience at all!
We are sorry about your experience with the missing parts and our customer service team. This was a combination of newer employees that were still learning, and just rough timing. When you called, we had just lost two senior members of our customer service team, and we were training their replacements. We could have easily just sent you the parts, but our shipping does close for a few days a year for annual counts, and it just happened to be that week. Dang it!
As far as quality control, we have had tough experiences with 3rd party Amazon sellers and are actively working on addressing those issues. Before our hitches leave our Provo, Utah facility en route to our distributors, they are thoroughly quality checked, but once they are gone, we have had heard of missing/swapped parts happening with Amazon sellers. If you could send us your purchase receipt to equalizersupport@progressmfg.com, we would love to follow up with the Amazon retailer.
We are thrilled that the hitch made a big difference, even before it was set up correctly, and again apologize for the frustrating experience. Thank you so much for contacting us!
very helpful
Thank you!
When I bought the E2 Round bar it was set up for a 2016 Colorado, we have since upgraded to a GMC 2500, I have adjusted the ball to the proper height but what about the L brackets, should those move too? There was a 6 inch difference between the Colorado and GMC 2500.
+Chris Sheehan,
Great question! The L-brackets may or may not need to be moved. Getting the hitch ball to the correct height is the first step in setting up the hitch when you change tow vehicles (or trailers). Now you need to go through the process of setting up and checking the weight distribution. It will most likely need to be adjusted, and that is done by adding or removing spacer washers between the hitch head and adjustable shank, and/or by moving the L-brackets. Follow the setup instructions in the owner's manual here: www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals. If you need some help, get in touch with our Customer Support people at 877-523-9103 or support@fastwaytrailer.com.
Do you have a recomendation on what I should adjust to Lower the nose of my truck approximately 1" ? I am using 3 washers and my "L" brackets are using the top two holes. I shouldn't have to adjust the Hitch head. I also ask this question in case I change the weight of what I have on the rear of my vehicle. Sometimes I will have a generator and two kayaks on a rack. Thank you.
See response on your second post. Thanks for watching!
I currently have an e2 set up on my 2015 Toyota Tacoma for towing our camper- this weekend I go to pick up a new Tundra- do I need to readjust the setup on the camper or can I just make sure the ball height is the same as with the old truck?
Scott Domuracki,
Yes, you need to check the complete set up of the e2 hitch when you get your new truck.
If the receiver height on the new truck is different than the old, you need to make sure the ball height is adjusted back to be the same height as the trailer coupler.
You will also have a very different suspension on the new truck, so you need to go through the weight distribution setup steps to check that you're getting good weight distribution. Be sure to check that the bolts are torqued correctly when you're done making adjustments.
Here is a link to the e2 owner's manual: www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals
Also, feel free to contact out customer support team if you have any other questions M-F, 8:00 am - 5:00 pm MST, at 877-523-9103 or Support@FastwayTrailer.com.
Good luck, and enjoy the new truck!
I'm having a difficult time finding a 1 7/8" socket that will clear the bar mounts in order to tighten the ball nut. I do not have a Fastway dealership near me. I tried several U-Hauls and mechanics but they did not have the right equipment. Sorry, I do not want to pay what you're asking for your branded socket. Can you tell me the the height of the socket's outer flat wall right before it tapers off? I am referring the dimension you mention at 5:14 Thank you very much in advance.
+Joanne Cho,
The outer flat wall is 1.400 to 1.500 inches. The tapered section is 0.313 in, and the neck where the socket drive attaches is .688 inches. The overall height is 2.401 to 2.501 inches. The outside diameter of the fluted section is 2.400 +/- .016 inches. Hope this helps. Let us know if you need anything else. Good luck!
I love our E2 hitch. Have a question on the L Brackets. One is loose and the other is tight. I assume, dangerous thing to do, that if they are to be at 75 ft lbs they should be tight, correct?
Yes, you'll want to tighten that bolt!
The rv dealer installed mine while tanks were full..we never plan on driving with full tanks. Should I readjust? Washers or ?
+Dave Merwin, The only way to tell if it should be adjusted is to take check the weight distribution. If it does need to be adjusted, that can either be done by adding/subtracting spacer washers, or by raising/lowering the L-brackets. If it is a long-term (permanent) change, we recommend making the changes via spacer washer. If only temporary, moving the L-brackets is easy and works great. If you need a refresher on making the adjustments, you can find that process here in the owner's manual: fstwy.co/manuals If needed, you are also welcome to contact our customer support staff at 877-523-9103 or Support@FastwayTrailer.com .
Is there any more of an explanation of when or how or why the ball angle needs adjusted?
It is to put more tension on the spring bar arms, which provides more sway control/weight distribution if you add a washer, or less sway control/weight distribution if you take one away.
You will want to make these adjustments if you need more sway control, or have too much weight distribution, you will add or take one away, respectively.
This is done by disconnecting the hitch head from the shank, and placing or removing washers from the spacer rivet that is between the two.
I have 2017 F150 Eco Boost with 6'5 bed and longer wheelbase and am within weight specs on my 30' TT but when I tow I get lots of sway. Is it possible that I need more washers or need to adjust L brackets? I also noticed that when dealer installed, my hitch ball is slightly angled downward and one L bracket is slightly further from coupler than other side.
+116059861215009681323,
Yes, it is possible that you need more washers, or to adjust the L-brackets. You will need to take several distance or weight measurements at the front of the tow vehicle to check this. Follow the weight distribution setup section in the e2 hitch owner's manual. If you don't have a copy, you can find one here: www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals
It is also correct for there to be some downward angle on the hitch head/ball as you describe. This is part of the pre-load angle on the hitch that puts the spring arms in position to be lifted up and give you sway control. Also, keeping the brackets at the same distance back is the best practice. However, a slight difference will not effect the performance of the hitch. Make sure they are tightened to the correct torque, and that they are forward enough to allow movement in the spring arms in a tight turn without coming off the L-bracket. Details of this are also in the owner's manual.
Here are a few other things to pay attention to. First, you have a pretty big trailer, basically the equivalent of a 30' x 9' sail on the back of your tow vehicle. You will probably naturally feel some push to the side as semi-trucks pass, or when you encounter a crosswind.
Check the loading of your trailer and make sure you are keeping within the recommended 10% - 15% tongue weight. A trailer with too light a tongue weight starts to get unstable, and a negative tongue weight is downright dangerous.
Make sure you have good tires on both tow vehicle and trailer, and make sure they are properly inflated. Soft tires can cause a lot of instability, and in some situations over-heat and break down.
Slow down. Speed is a major factor in sway and sway-caused accidents.
As always, if you need more details, or further help after trying some of these suggestions, get in touch with our awesome customer support team at 877-523-9103 or Support@FastwayTrailer.com.
Good luck!
I have this hitch and I was wondering if there is a replacement for the sway control friction material? Mine looks like it is quite worn off, and I am not sure how effective it still is.
larryz24,
The e2 hitches do not have friction material added to the trailer brackets. This is a feature of some of the Reese brand hitches, and if yours has this, you would need to contact their customer support for information on a replacement.
The e2 hitch's L-brackets can be replaced if needed, although having one wear to that extent is unusual. Get in touch with our customer support team at 877-523-9103 or Support@FastwayTrailer.com. They can help you get a replacement, and can determine if you are eligible for any warranty coverage on them as well.
Good luck and safe towing!
Any thoughts on how to remove hardened grease that is up in the bar tube on the hitch. I bought a used one. Crazy enough to get it off the bars themselves.
Hi there! Your best bet would be to scrub at the grease with hot soapy water. Good luck!
I have the 10,000lb round bar. I traded in my trailer for one with a GVWR of 7000lb. Do I need to replace my bars to the 8000lb rated ones? Is there any harm in using the "oversized" round bars that I have now?
+Tundra, Tools, and Tech,
No, there is no need to replace the 10K arms with 8K arms. The ones you have will work great for that size trailer. Just make sure you check your overall setup and make any necessary adjustments to the placement of the hitch head on the shank and weight distribution as those may be different with the new trailer.
I have this on my camper from the dealee and the angle set bolt has come a little loose is it normal then for the ball mount to be wiggly on the shank even though the two giant bolts are allegedly torqued to spec.
+Joshua Freeman,
No, it is not normal for the hitch head to be "wiggly" on the shank. The spacer rivet and washers, and the angle set bolt should both be tight to the shank, and then the shank bolts tightened to the correct torque. This should pinch the bolt channel solidly to the shank so there is no movement.
Follow the instructions to tighten the angle set bolt and get the shank bolts torqued correctly. We highly recommend using a proper torque wrench to tighten the shank bolts, not an impact wrench. If you have trouble with any part of that process, please get in touch with our customer support staff for help. 877-523-9103 or Support@FastwayTrailer.com
You can find the e2 hitch instructions here: www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals
It would be very helpful to have a video with the shank upward instead of videos with the shank downward only set up. I do not seem to be able to find any for my E2 setup.
Thanks for the request, we’ll see what we can do. As for your setup, every other step should be exactly the same. The only difference is turning the shank upward to get the hitch ball at the correct height. Otherwise, same process and procedure. The e2 owner’s manual [www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals] will give you a step-by-step guide to the entire setup. Also, please contact our Customer Support team if you need any other help with your e2 hitch, 877-523-9103 or support@fastwaytrailer.com.
I am ordering a 20' cargo trailer with a 2x8 tube frame which is an upgrade. What do you do about that?
@Ole Guy, get in touch with our customer support staff. We have some specialty link plates that you can use on an 8" frame. 877-523-9103 or support@fastwaytrailer.com.
My L Brackets move a little, as if they have become loose. Is it normal for those brackets to have some play in them? I will go check the torque when I have a chance.
K2,
The holes in the L-bracket are slightly larger than the diameter of the stud bolts on the outside link plate. This is simply to allow for minor tolerance differences during the manufacturing process. This does allow the L-bracket to move a little if they are not tight. If they are torqued correctly, you should not see much movement.
Correct torque for the link plate bolts (around the trailer frame) is 65 ft-lbs., and for the L-bracket nuts it is 75 ft-lbs. (See the e2 hitch owner's manual here: www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals).
If you double check yours, but still have a concern, get in touch with our customer support team at 877-523-9103 or Support@FastwayTrailer.com.
Good luck!
In your opinion, which Weight Distribution Hitch is best; the Hensley Arrow or ProPride 3P?
+Avid Hiker,
The Hensley Arrow and ProPride 3P are good hitches. They do some things well, others not so well. We recommend the Fastway e2 hitch, and the Equal-i-zer hitch. Both are excellent values, and provide fantastic sway control and weight distribution performance for a fair price. They have an unmatched track record for quality, great warranties, and both are very user friendly. Their customer support is second to none, and they have a strong dealership network to support them all across North America. You can find more information about them here:
Fastway e2 hitch:
fstwy.co/e2
fstwy.co/e2-hitch-video
Equal-i-zer hitch:
eqhit.ch/home
eqhit.ch/eqvideo
Have a 2" ball, 600 lb tongue, 4" A-frame, Measue 19" to top of truck insert and 12" for bottom of hitch for ball. Don't see what would work for the 7" drop.
We've got some XL drop shanks. Contact our customer service department for more information! support@fastwaytrailer.com
Thanks for the video! I've installed my setup, had to move my L brackets down 1 hole, but the bars are not parallel to the trailer and are point up and seem to be only contacting the front edge of the L Bracket. All measurements check out good, so Im curious if this is normal???
That doesn't sound too far off. But you should be able to get them at least pretty close to parallel. Email our customer service a few pictures if you still aren't sure if it looks good. support@fastwaytrailer.com
I have this same situation as well. I am trying to understand the significance of the washer/angle bolts. Also my L brackets are in the middle holes so if I move down, seems that would grossly affect the weight distribution. Older F250 with 34’ travel trailer.
Mines the same way.. I recently had to readjust my setup after adding airbags and a leveling kit to my truck.. it's dead nuts on the measurements but the bars won't sit flat on the L brackets
My RV dealer installed the brackets on the trailer and assembled the hitch head but didn’t do any measurements on the tow vehicle. They just hooked it to my truck and sent me on my way. Is this one of those things that after you’ve done so many you can intuitively set it correctly or do I need to fine tune it?
To find the most correct position for the hitch head and ball, having a measurement from the ground to the inside top of the receiver tube is really important, so fine tuning may be required!
I have airbags on my truck. Should I set the trailer on the ball so it squats and then see how much air it takes to get my truck leveled back out, then take the trailer off and set my ball with the washers?
Great question. Please see page 18, of our manual, where it discusses how to set up your hitch with auto leveling. You will want to start with the system turned off. Auto leveling decreases the weight distribution by 20-25%, so aim for 75-100% weight distribution, so once auto leveling is engaged, you have compensated for the loss. www.equalizerhitch.com/documents/manuals/EQ_Owners-Manual_6K-14K_2020-web-EQINS2012.pdf
New to travel trailers and WD systems. I've inherited a 21' travel trailer with this WD system installed on it. Gross weight of the trailer loaded is @6200 lbs and max trailer weight limit up to 7600 lbs for my Chevy Colorado Z71. After towing it home from where I picked it up, I could tell that the rear of the truck was much lower than it should be and the nose of truck was definitely pointed up. There was almost 4 inches of drop when the trailer was added. A friend who went with me(who has a much larger trailer) that that the drop wasn't that significant. I believe that to be incorrect! Since I have no data other than what I see here, it looks like I should start over with the install as this clearly cannot be correct. My quick question to you all is, where to start on the adjustment of this system to match the truck? I did initially reverse the hitch shank and install it "up" as that seemed to be the better position for it to match the hitch ball coupler height on the trailer to make it "match level" at @ 22"s. Didn't change the position of the link plate or "L" brackets yet. Do I need to relocate the "L" brackets, up or down to reduce the weight on the hitch ball and thus reduce the down force on the rear of the truck? And if so, by how much to start? Sorry.. I'm a neophyte with this rig.. I do plan on traveling with the fresh water tank empty (40 gallons) until getting close to the final destination to reduce that weight up forward on the trailer. Appreciate any assistance from Fastway or other users.
The best way to get an answer to your question would be to contact our customer service team at info@fastwaytrailer.com or call them at 877-523-9103.
@@FastwayTrailer Thanks... I've left a few messages over the past week or so with no response. I'll try again this week.
when I connect my 5500LB trailer to my chevy 2500HD the front wheel measurement doesn't change at all from the unloaded measurement, how do I know if it's under or over distributed? thanks
It sounds like you need to take a look at your tongue weight and make sure it is correctly proportioned to your gross trailer weight (GVW). This assumes that you do not have an auto-level system that is making vehicle adjustments when you hitch up. With a 5,500 lb trailer you should be somewhere between 550 lb (10%) and 825 lb (15%) of tongue weight. That should be enough to raise the front end. Having enough tongue weight greatly reduces the likelihood of sway problems and allows your hitch to distribute that weight, which also helps with stability and sway control.
If you have the correct ration of tongue weight and your front end is still not raising, check your axle weights at a CAT scale. You should see your baseline (uncoupled) front axle weight show heavier than your coupled (with no Weight Distribution) weight. The ideal would be to get at least halfway back to this baseline weight. For example, if your baseline is 3,000 lb, and the coupled is 2,700 lb, you would want the front axle weight somewhere between 2,850 lb and 3,000 lb with your weight distribution hitch engaged.
I have the round E2 1000/10,000 lbs setup. I just upgraded my trailer that has hitch weigh of 898 lbs and maximum trailer weight of 8,800 lbs. is this solution ok, or do I need to change to the square bar supporting more weight?
No need to upgrade. That hitch should carry those weights just fine. Thanks for towing with an e2 hitch!
How does one find out whether to install brackets top or bottom mount on trailer??
The brackets come from the the bottom and go up!
I just bought a new travel trailer and the dealer installed the Fastway e2 Round Bar Sway Control / Weight Distribution. On one side the pin/taper keeps hanging up (it almost seems like the pin has some burrs or the hole needs is too small), giving me a hard time releasing the round bar. The other pin/taper is so smooth. When I pull on the taper to release the round bar, the taper bends too easy and won't come out far enough to release the round bars. What do you recommend? Thank you.
I'm having the same problem getting the the bars out. What ami I doing wrong. Please give me a few tips and tricks I need to perform. Any help would be very helpful.
+74ewtn and Chuck Faubel,
To remove the spring arms from the hitch head, simply rotate them outward and forward toward the tow vehicle. When they get a little past perpendicular to the hitch head, they should push those pins out by themselves, and they should easily release and drop out of the hitch head.
If you try this and are still having trouble, get in touch with our Customer Support team: 877-523-9103 or Support@FastwayTrailer.com.
Good luck!
I own a 5450 lbs dry trailer with a 605 lb dry hitch weight
Should I purchase the 800 /8000 lb e2 hitch or go up to the 1000 / 10,000 lb hitch ?
+Jord TheMechanic,
The critical weights are your loaded weights. The ratings on the hitches are for maximum tongue weight and maximum trailer weight. We recommend loading the trailer as you would for your heaviest trip, then taking it to a location with a truck scale, or CAT scale, to weigh it.
Pull across the scale, and stop with your tow vehicle just off the scale, but the trailer still on. Uncouple the trailer and use the jack to raise it off your hitch ball enough that there is no weight on the tow vehicle. The scale operator should be able to give you two weights, the weight at the axles, and the weight at the tongue jack. The tongue jack weight is a close enough approximation for the tongue weight of the trailer (unless there is more than a few inches distance between the jack and the coupler). Add the two weights together to get your gross trailer weight.
When choosing a hitch, make sure its ratings exceed both of these actual weights. For example: if your measured weights are 700 lb tongue and 7,000 lb trailer, an 800 / 8,000 lb rated hitch would be fine. However, if they are 840 lb and 7,000 lb, you would need to choose the 1,000 / 10,000 lb rated hitch.
Remember, you should never tow with more weight than your tow vehicle, hitch, or trailer are rated for.
If you need more help with this process, get in touch with our customer support team at 877-523-9103 or Support@FastwayTrailer.com. They are always happy to help!
The dealer set mine up 2 inches or so out of level. When I level it what all is required. Or do I just start over and redo it all. The only thing I don’t know is how many washers I would need to change.
These are some good questions. The adjustments can be different for each tow vehicle/trailer combination. Don't hesitate to reach out to our awesome customer service team, who can help you get everything adjusted correctly!
Hi Dave great video, I have a problem I hope you can help me with, my trailer frame is 8 inches, and your trailer frame brackets are too small, there made for a 6-inch frame. Do you make brackets that would fit my trailer?
Hi Nick! I would reach out to our customer service team and see if this ones will work: www.equalizerhitch.com/store/link-plates/outside-link-plate-for-10-frame. Their number is 877.523.9103.
@@FastwayTrailer Thanks for the info I now have what I need.
I'm not sure why my last comment disappeared. I was hoping to get some help with putting the spring arms into hitch head. Only on one side of the hitch head has a jam when installing or removing the round bar. The pin is not smooth and I can't get it to pull all the way out. When I use the taper to pull it out, the taper bends to the point that I can't get it fully out. It seems like the pin is not smooth or the hole that it travels is not big enough. Can you please help with this issue? Thank you.
A V,
The spring arms are designed with a chamfered edge on the end that slides up into the hitch head. It should look like a bit of the top corner has been cut off on an angle. Try inserting the arm with this chamfer lined up with the retaining pin. Put a little grease on the top of the arm. You should be able to push it up into the head, and that chamfer will push the retainer pin out of the way, then let it drop back into the retaining slot in the arm to hold it.
To remove the arm, try turning it out sideways to about 90 degrees perpendicular to the vehicle - kind of parallel to the bumper. This should push the retainer pin out of the retaining slot, and let the arm drop out of the hitch head.
The spring arm and hitch head tube need to be lined up well. If it is binding a bit, make sure it has some grease on it, and move it around a little to try and line them up. I usually hold the arm about where the sticker is so that it will balance well in my hand and I can shift it around a bit to get it lined up.
Try these, and if you still need some help with it, contact our customer support team M-F, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Mountain time. They will be glad to help you!
You can reach them by emailing Support@FastwayTrailer.com or calling 877-523-9103.
Would you err on the side of placing the hitch head at a height lower or higher than the height of the top of the coupler? Top of my ball is 24 1/2". The hitch head in the top holes in the drop position is about 23 7/8". The hitch head at the bottom holes in the rise position is 25".
+Tundra, Tools, and Tech,
Great question! We recommend that you drop it to the 23-7/8" height, just slightly lower than the coupler. Either would work fine, but going down instead of up will give you just a bit more weight distribution force assuming the same number of spacer washers and same L-bracket height.
how close should the two heights be when starting the process? I have about 2" difference (ball is lower) and no matter what I do I still have about 2 3/4" sag in the truck. I guess I need to order the specialty shank..??
+Romd inKs,
Great question, thanks for asking.
We are making the assumption that your tow vehicle is large enough and has the ratings for the trailer you're towing, that the trailer is correctly loaded, good tires correctly inflated, ratings not exceeded, etc. If any of those are off, that should be addressed first.
The ideal is to have the hitch ball at the same height as the trailer coupler (with the trailer level/parallel to the ground). If you are already using the hitch with the shank in the rise position, you would do well to get a specialty shank that raises the hitch ball. If not, simply turn the shank upward, and find the correct position for the hitch head.
Having some sag in the rear of the truck is expected, and actually good. The most critical indicator is the front axle of the vehicle. You are adding a significant amount of weight to the tow vehicle, and you should expect it to sag under that weight. What you don't want is to raise too much weight off the front axle. In most ideal setups, the front axle returns to almost the same height (same axle weight) as it was without the trailer coupled. The rear axle sags and is carrying more weight because of the addition of the trailer. This is good, because it holds your tow vehicle tighter to the road, and gives it more control over the trailer.
Follow the setup process in the owner's manual from start to finish. Get the hitch ball height correct, and then the weight distribution into a good range. Then, test it. See how it tows, and make minor adjustments from there if you need to.
You can find the owner's manuals here: www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals
You can reach customer support here: 877-523-9103 or Support@FastwayTrailer.com
FastwayTrailer thank you for the quick response. I drive a 6.2L f250 and the trailer averages 8000lbs. I will the trailer out this weekend to measure it. I did not realize the front measurement was that critical. The shank is inverted and using the top bolt hole with the L bracket bolts to the top side.
+Romd inKs,
You're welcome! Yes, the front measurement is the most critical. The rear measurement should be watched, but it is more of a problem if you're getting too much weight distribution and actually lifting the rear up. If your front measurement is good, it is almost impossible to have this happen with the rear. Also, that's a pretty good size trailer. If you're sitting between 800 and 1,200 lb tongue weight, you can expect the rear to sag, even with good weight distribution and that tow vehicle. Good luck! Let us know if we can help with anything else. Also, come back and let us know how it works out if you decide to make some changes to your setup.
I have this exact WDH model. I placed my L brackets at 27 inches (just behind the propane tanks), but I cannot raise the brackets high enough to provide enough weight distribution. (2 inch vehicle drop becomes a 1.5 inch drop at my current settings.) Attempting to raise the L brackets higher, I run into the bottom of the propane tanks. I would have to move the L brackets back to 28 inches to alleviate the issue. I understand going to 28 risks the bars sliding off in sharp turns so I assume that option is out. Can I exchange my bars for longer versions? Alternate ideas: is it safe to cut material off the top of the L bracket? Is there a safe product to lift my propane tanks an inch or two while keeping them secure? Not looking to cut off and re-weld the propane tank tray. To get in front of my tanks I'd be at 16 inches and the bars are clearly too thick at that point, not to mention the undesirable loss in torque from the shorter moment arm. If I invert the L brackets I'd get my lift, but the brackets would reach down to 2-4 inches above flat ground which wouldn't end well on uneven surfaces. Thanks for any additional ideas. 2011 Keystone Hideout.
Hi Chris! The best way to get your questions answered is to contact our customer service team at 877.523.9103 or you can email them at info@fastwaytrailer.com. Thanks!
Chris move those propane tanks forward maybe 3 inches and it should give you the clearance needed for the brackets.
Can I increase the tounge weight max by replacing the bars?
Yes, the 6k bars will have a max tongue weight of 600 lbs, the 8k bars will have an 800 lb max tongue weight, and the 10k bars will have a 1,000 lb max tongue weight.
Is it ok to use the e2 hitch at 23.75 inches I have a brace on frame if I go the other side it will be 27.75
@Eric Lawton, yes, you will be fine putting the frame brackets at 23.75".
I could not find the speciality socket on your website. Can you post the part number ?
+110637021261132719100,
Sorry about that! The part number for the thin-walled socket is 70-00-4800. Get in touch with our customer support team at 877-523-9103 or Support@FastwayTrailer.com and they can answer your questions and get one sent out to you.
How do you recommend installing the hitch ball if one doesn't have the large torque & crescent wrenches?
+David Thompson,
We recommend that you find a reputable e2 hitch dealership and have them setup and install your hitch. You can use our dealer locator to find one in your area. www.fastwaytrailer.com/find-a-dealer Also, if the 10K model works for your needs, you can purchase one with a pre-installed hitch ball. www.fastwaytrailer.com/e2-hitch Remember, you will still need some large wrenches and a torque wrench to tighten the hitch head to the adjustable shank when setting up the hitch.
Other options include finding a mechanic / auto repair shop near you that has the tools and is willing to help, or finding an auto parts retailer that rents tools.
Thanks for the comment, and good luck!
I have a question. My dealer told me to have the hitch ball in the truck an inch and a half higher that the coupler, but on this video you are having them at the same height? Which one is correct?
Our recommendation is to have the top of the hitch ball level with or up to an inch above the top of the trailer coupler when both vehicles are next to each other, on flat ground, and level to the ground. In some cases you may need to turn the shank upward or use a bigger rise/drop shank to place the hitch ball at the correct height.
Ok, im lost here, i have a 2017 yukon xl, it has automatic air bags, when i ñoad it with gear it will lift in its own, so then I would need to turn them off? And leave them off to set up, and after its set up, leave them off for the trip?
Almost. Load the vehicle, let it level, then turn it off. Set up your hitch, then hitch up and turn it back on. Double check the weight distribution after it levels to make sure it is still good, then go ahead and drive with it turned on. It will be a bit of a trial and error process to get the hitch adjusted correctly. Good luck!
Gun Engraver is see, here, is there a middle ground to having to adjust it to every load, if were going to the beach we load different things than if were going bike riding/hiking, load would vary, i imagine, thanks for taking a newcomers question, just want my girls to be safe
You really should not have to adjust every load, unless you are significantly changing the weight and placement of cargo. Measure the front wheel well (unhitched, hitched, hitched w/ WD) as you hitch up for your first few trips and record the measurements. This should give you a pretty good idea of where your setup should be. Then, you only need to check and possibly make an adjustment if you load up in a way that is very out of the ordinary.
What height do I set the blue tape at above front wheels? His video showed a gap of approx 1"
The exact placement of the tape does not matter. It is simply a clean line to measure to, instead of trying to find a sharp line at the edge of the wheel well.
I definitely do not have these bigger tools, or any of the torque wrenches. I really don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on tools. Can you recommend a course of action please? Is the speciality 1 7/8" socket required for installing the ball or would most mechanics have something that would work? By the way, you should offer options with the ball installed. I just ordered this system from e-trailer, and I wish I had watched this video first.
accidentalhobo,
We do have a 10K model that comes with the hitch ball pre-installed. The part number for that is 92-00-1065.
Yes, you need a 1-7/8" socket that is slightly shorter than standard, and is also tapered at the top where the wrench inserts into the socket. They are not uncommon, and you can probably find a mechanic near you that has one that could help you.
Here are some recommend options:
1) Find a reputable dealership near you that carries the e2 brand and has the equipment, and ask if they would be willing to install the hitch ball or entire hitch for you, for a reasonable service fee. You can use the dealer locator on the Fastway website, or call in to our customer support team and have them help you with this. www.fastwaytrailer.com/find-a-dealer or 877-523-9103
2) Contact eTrailer.com and ask if they would exchange for the model with the ball pre-installed (if the 10K is the model you need).
3) Purchase the specialty socket from us for your local mechanic to use. The part number for the socket is 70-00-4800.
4) Many automotive parts stores and equipment rental businesses rent tools. Check with some near you and see if they have the sockets and torque wrench available.
Remember that you will also need a torque wrench capable of 250 ft-lbs, a 1-1/8" wrench, and a 1-1/16" socket to tighten the bolts that hold the hitch head onto the shank, and a 15/16" wrench for the angle set bolt on the hitch head.
As always, feel free to contact our customer support team if you need more help.
Good luck!
I truly appreciate the prompt response and information!
+accidentalhobo,
You're welcome! Our goal is safe and happy customers. Good luck getting it set up. Be sure to contact our customer support if you need any more help.
Should any parts of this hitch have grease?
+Zachary Henderson,
Yes. You should make sure it is greased around the ends of the spring arms where they come in contact with the tubes in the hitch head. You should also grease the hitch ball. Here is a link to the installation instructions, which have the details of doing this. Thanks for the question! www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals
So heavier needs more spacer washers or less?
You will add washers to help balance out your hitch!
My dealer installed the inside link plate upside down on both sides. Is that common? Also the middle inside link plate is bowed and there’s a gap at the bottom of the frame and the screw.
This is done in some scenarios, specifically when the trailer has a bottom mount coupler. The most important thing is that the bars are able to run parallel with the frame of the trailer. As long as there are points of contact at the top and bottom of the frame, you should be okay. You can always send pictures to our customer service team via email (support@fastwaytrailer.com), and we would be happy to check them out for you!
What’s better on a e2 system round bars or square
They both are great products! Either one with help with sway control.
you didn't mention anything about the sway bar, or what prevents it from swaying, can you please explain? thanks
+JSWIZZLE8R,
With an e2 hitch, the sway control is built right into the hitch. You should not need an add-on sway bar when you use an e2 hitch.
The rigid brackets that mount to the trailer frame have less play in them than chains do. Also, the spring arms (weight distribution arms) must slide back and forth on those brackets when the trailer and truck change alignment (turn or sway). The friction at these two points along with the rigid brackets are where you get sway control from an e2 hitch.
I have a 98 f150 36" in front and back unloaded. When using weight distribution hitch is 35" in front and 32.5" rear what should I change.
Ian Baker,
Unfortunately, this does not give us enough information to help well. At first glance, it looks like you are getting too much weight distribution, because the front measurement is lower than the unloaded baseline. If that is the case, you need to remove spacer washers in the head assembly, or lower the L-brackets.
Our advice is to go back through the setup process outlined in this video, and the owner's manual. If your hitch is an e2 hitch, the manual can be found here: www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals
Briefly, the steps are: adjust the trailer parallel to the ground and measure the coupler, place the hitch ball at the correct height (use a specialty shank if needed), take initial front measurement, couple the trailer w/ no weight distribution, take 2nd front measurement, engage weight distribution, take 3rd front measurement and compare (see owner's manual), adjust weight distribution as necessary, check trailer attitude and adjust if necessary, tighten everything down.
If you feel like you need more help, get in touch with our customer support department at 877-523-9103 or Support@FastwayTrailer.com
your rear... '98 f150 is basically too light to tow anything per ford, check with dealer for ford recmnd
HI, I am about to order the E2 94-00-0600 for a less then 4000 Lb Travel Trailer. DO I HAVE TO HAVE THE 2 5/16" WITH A 1 1/4" BALL? I do not have the Extreme Torque and would not want to invest on the special socket. CAN I DO WELL WITH THE 2 5/16" and 1" bolt and tighten/torque at much as I can possibly can?
Are you planning to use a bushing with the 1" bolt?
@@FastwayTrailer Yes, I have the busing from another kit
👍👍👍
Any solutions to getting rid of play/movement in removable tow hitch bar? I use a bolt and lock but in the base of bar which secures it but the tow bar works loose after an hour of towing.
+craig weir,
Are you talking about play between the adjustable shank and the receiver on your tow vehicle, or are you talking about play between the adjustable shank and the hitch head?
FastwayTrailer shank of E2 and receiver in my tow vehicle. When I unhitch the caravan it has maybe 2mm of movement /play.
+craig weir,
Most receivers have some tolerance to allow the shank to slide in and out easily. 2mm is a very acceptable amount of tolerance. Any movement of the hitch head and shank should be stopped once you engage the spring arms, as they apply a significant amount of upward force to the shank of the hitch, and pin it against the top of the receiver.
What is your main concern with the play?
FastwayTrailer thank you for replying. My main concern is the movement 2mm all the way around seems excessive with 2.6 ton from my caravan wearing on the hitch pin and receiver. I was thinking of running some tacks of welding around the E2 bar and grinding down for a more snug fit into the hitch receiver. Thank you.
how do you know if you need to add or remove a washer instead of moving the L brackets?
We recommend moving the L bracket first, but if your L-brackets cannot be adjusted anymore add or remove washers if your WDH and trailer still isn't level.
Is there a way to put the round bars on without the hook tool? I need to hook my trailer back up and someone stole my hook lever from the back of my truck
Yes, you will just need to raise the jack higher. The higher you raise the jack, the less tension will be on the spring bars and the easier it will be to get the bars on!
You took couple measurements but that doesnt explain how you or which holes you knew to put the brackets in on the trailer before putting round bars i am confused
Pal Palich,
If we are setting up the hitch for the first time, we start with the L-brackets in the center two of the six available holes. This gives us room to go up or down as needed later on to accommodate needed weight distribution adjustments easily.
Follow the instructions ( www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals ), Step 4 - Sway Bracket Assembly Setup, and it will walk you through the process of placing and adjusting the L-brackets.
So youre saying its ok to back up and turn the trailor with the e2 distribution hitch? So if im in a pinch i can almost jackknife my trailor in to a tight spot? Im new to towing so alot of questions
That is correct! While we can't speak for every weight distribution hitch out there, the e2 Hitch does not have any reversing restrictions, or turn radius restrictions!
@@FastwayTrailer THANK YOU 😢 😢 😢 😢 😢 SO AWESOME!
You're welcome!
My rv dealer installed my E2 but i feel that it was done incorrectly how much of the round bars stick out of the L brackets. Mine stick out less then one inch????
Should be about 3 inches, anything less you run the risk of the bar slipping out as you make tight turns. If you want to make sure it's setup correctly, email our customer service team with a picture of your brackets at info@fastwaytrailer.com
Did I miss how the bars go into the "L" Bracket?
Do I need to lubricate the bars at the locking coupler?
Where it fits into the hitch head, yes, you can lubricate there. Just be sure to NOT lubricate the bars where they meet the L-brackets.
@@FastwayTrailer thank you for the reply, I am getting a lot of edge wear on the L bracket (edge closest to the Truck bumper). So bad that I ordered replacements from you last month. The new ones are doing the same and I changed the load on them before our last trip (last week). Is this normal?
Do you have to have those air bags?
I don't understand the purpose of the spacer rivet and spacer washers. Are they there to fine tune the height of the hitch ball?
+Jack Adams,
No, the spacer rivet and washers are not to fine tune the hitch ball height, they are to take up the space between the top of the hitch head and adjustable shank. The height of the hitch ball is determined by the position in which the head is installed on the shank, which is a factor of the holes chosen and orientation of the shank.
The spacer rivet and washers sit in the gap between the top of the hitch head and the shank. They take up the space between them so that there is a solid connection for the weight distribution all the way through from the trailer to the tow vehicle. Adding or removing washers during setup changes the angle between the head and shank, and this is one of the ways the amount of weight distribution is adjusted. More washers = more weight distribution, less washers = less weight distribution.
Thank you for the explanation.
You're welcome +Jack Adams! Thanks for the question.
Simple, great explanation, you rock!
You mentioned to load the trailer as it would be towed, but you never mentioned to also load the tow vehicle the same way, with full tank, camping gear, kayaks, etc... Basically anything you would load toward the rear of the vehicle for your trip.
You are correct. It is ideal to have the tow vehicle loaded as you would on a typical trip when setting up the hitch. Thanks for the comment!
I'm have a lot of problems with mine. I change back to my old hitch. Had to replace bent parts twice already. The hitch was $700 my $200 hitch is better. Wish there was a way to email Fastway pictures.
Hi Larry! You can email your pictures to our customer service team at info@fastwaytrailer.com. This is unusual for our e2 hitch. They should we able to to help you with broken parts.
great video dave. i have a toy hauler 3650 +/- lbs dry weight. bike weighs just over 700lbs. how much variance can i expect in settings while towing with toy vs towing without?
+Martin Foley,
Great question! There are a lot of variables to take into consideration, so estimating that is tough. It is mostly a function of the distance from the trailer coupler to the axles, related to the distance from the axles to the bike. Think of it like a teeter-totter. For example, if the coupler to the axles is 10', and the distance from axles to bike is 10', then the relation would be 1:1, meaning, if you take the bike out, removing 700 lb. from the back, the amount of weight it is counter-balancing is 700 lb., so you should see the tongue weight raise by 700 lb. If the ratio is 10' vs. 5' (2:1), the tongue weight should increase by 350 lb. (2x350 = 1x700).
Unfortunately, there is not an easier way to predict the hitch setup you will need than to set it up both ways (with and without the bike), checking to make sure the weight distribution is dialed in on both of them. Then you will know where to set the L-brackets based on the trailer loading.
thanks dave, very helpful
+Martin Foley, you're welcome.
I’ve had my e2 for two seasons now and it has been nothing but disappointment. The left side L bracket won’t stay tight and I’ve had the bar come off twice. I’m not sure what’s going on but I’ve torqued every thing to spec. I have the thousand pound bars and I’ve been told I need the 1200 pound bars because of the length and weight of my trailer. I get a lot of bounce and barely any sway control.
Oh no! Lets get this problem figured out. If you contact our customer service team at info@fastwaytrailer.com or call them at 877-523-9103, they can help you figure out the problem!! I'm sorry this seems incredibly frustrating!
So i can install this to minimize the weight of my boat on the tongue
Weight distribution does not minimize the tongue weight of your trailer. But it does change the way the tongue weight affects your tow vehicle. A good weight distribution hitch like the e2 can make towing your boat a much more comfortable and safe experience.
When you tow a bumper-pull trailer without weight distribution, the rear axle of the tow vehicle carries the additional weight of the trailer’s tongue or hitch weight. Adding that weight to the back of the tow vehicle causes the rear axle of the tow vehicle to act like the center support (fulcrum) of a teeter-totter, and lifts some weight off of the front axle of the tow vehicle. That weight doesn’t disappear. It is still part of the mass of the tow vehicle, but it is now being carried by the rear axle as well. This can potentially have two negative effects. First, you may overload your rear axle, exceeding its axle weight rating. Second, you loose weight that holds your front tires to the road, which costs you braking and steering control.
Using a weight distribution hitch changes the way the combined vehicle carries the weight. Using the leverage of the spring bars, it forces the front axle of the tow vehicle to carry the weight it would normally carry when not towing a trailer. This reduces the load on the rear axle, and keeps steering and braking control on the front axle.
is it ok the be over distributed by an8th
We recommend at the exact weight!
Is that an equalizer brand trailer hitch shirt?
Wow, good eyes +Zachary Henderson. That is an Equal-i-zer hitch logo on one sleeve. The Fastway Trailer Products logo is on the other. It is a shirt I used during trade show season. I wore it in the video because it is supposed to be 'slimming.' What do you think - did it work?
FastwayTrailer I was thinking what a nice shirt too. My style. Hope it is on sale somewhere.
Sorry +David Crawford. Limited edition ; )
12/14/2021
It would have been helpful to show the procedure for removing the arms from the hitch for storage..
Otherwise good.
bf
That's good advice, thank you!
I may have answered my own question. If you lowered the "L" bracket two holes, the weight distribution was reduced and the nose of the vehicle was increased. So i should be able to raise my "L" brackets two holes to correct my nose high situation.
Good question. There's a couple things you will want to check. You'll want the bars to be running parallel with the trailer frame, as apposed to running at an angle (either up or down). If the nose of the trailer is a bit high, you can lower the entire hitch head on the shank to have the trailer frame be level. With that said, I would rather have the trailer be nose up than nose down.
So if it's close to level, I'd probably leave the nose as is, and then make whatever L-bracket adjustment is needed to get the bars parallel with the frame. Once you've done that, if you need to make changes to adjust the weight distribution and/or sway control, you can do that by adding (increasing WD and sway control) or subtracting (decreasing WD and sway control) washers.
@@FastwayTrailer thank you. I initially raised my "L" brackets two holes but found out that was too tight. I was seeing metal shavings, so I returned it back to its original position. I will start from scratch and should be at the right point from there.
Is it possible to have a bumper pull so heavy that you cant get the truck level, and need airbags?
Yes. It is possible to have a trailer too heavy for your truck and/or for your hitch. Take a look at the weight ratings for your vehicle and for your hitch, and make sure you are within the limits. If you are outside of the GVWR or the hitch ratings, you need to reduce your trailer's weight, or tow with a higher rated vehicle and/or hitch. Airbags offset sag, but do not fix weight distribution. Good luck! Let us know if we can help further.
@@FastwayTrailer 890lb hitch weigh bumper pull @8100lb dry travel trailer. On 15 f150 max tow. 10k e2 round bar 1k bars. My bars dont sit flush on the L brackets they are downhill to the truck. Still far from level on truck. Even if more tension is put on the bars i dont see them correcting the problem or sitting correctly on the bracket
Dang it. Those bars definitely need to be sitting flat. If you are still having issues you can contact our customer service team at info@fastwaytrailer.com or call them at 877-523-9103.
How do you adjust the pitch? In your example you did not need to adjust pitch.
bartlettbob 67,
Sue had this very same question on our e2 trunnion video. Here is my response to her:
To check the pitch of the trailer, I follow a similar process as the one I use to get it parallel to the ground before starting the install.
With the trailer coupled up and the weight distribution engaged, measure the frame of the trailer at the front and back, and compare the measurements. If the difference between the two is significant (more than 1-1/4"), you may want to adjust the hitch ball height - the position it is in on your adjustable shank. There is some flexibility in this. A short trailer of only 15' will be much more effected by changing the hitch ball height than a 34' trailer will be. 1-1/4" over 15' is much more pitch than 1-1/4" over 34'. Use your best judgement for your vehicles. Try a couple of different positions if necessary, and use the one that gives you the most stable ride.
For example:
With your hitch coupled and spring arms in place, you measure 15" to the trailer frame at the back, and 17" to the trailer frame in the front, a 2" difference, which is more than the recommended 1-1/4". Moving the hitch head down one hole on the shank changes its position by 1-1/4". But dropping the head also increases the amount of weight distribution, because it changes the relationship between the end of the spring arm and the L-bracket position. Therefore, when making this change, you need to check the weight distribution setup again.
After moving the head down, the new weight distribution measurements show that it is good, dropping the front wheel well only slightly more, but not more than the uncoupled wheel well height.
A second check of the trailer measurements shows 16-1/4" at the back, and 16" at the front. It is now within the 1-1/4" difference, and the weight distribution is good. This would be a better setup than before.
---
There is a detailed description of this in Step 8 of the owner's manual, which you can download from the Fastway website here: www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals
If you need more help with your hitch, get in touch with our customer support team. They are available M-F, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Mountain time. They will be happy to help. (877) 523-9103.
FastwayTrailer my uncoupled height on front end of truck is 35.5. coupled height on front end is 35.25. is that considered over distributed? after reviewing the vid a few times, I may have to re-check what the dealer did when they installed. unit is a little squirrelly going down road.
PoPo S,
Yes, if the uncoupled height on the front end is HIGHER than the height with the trailer coupled and weight distribution bars engaged, you are OVER distributed. If this is the case, you need to remove spacer washer(s), or lower the L-bracket, to take some of the weight distribution off.
Follow the guidelines in the e2 hitch owner's manual to do it right! www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals
Other things to check are: not exceeding weight ratings on tow vehicle or trailer, properly inflated tires, proper trailer loading (10% - 15% of Gross Trailer Weight as Tongue Weight and heaviest items low and in the middle), and do not speed.
Good luck!
FastwayTrailer thanks. do the wd bars absolutely need to be parallel to trailer frame? right now the bars are parallel and are in the middle 2 holes of L brackets. if I drop one hole, they won't be parallel. if dropping down one hole on each will put my front end close to uncoupled height, and bars are not parallel, will that be ok?
PoPo S,
Yes, it will be fine if the bars are not absolutely parallel to the trailer frame. Having the weight distribution properly set up is more important.
You skipped over the part on how to use the snap up lever.
Good point! All you do it place the bar in the hook of the snap-up lever, and life upwards! Good idea for a next install video!
looks like my RV dealer installed my L brackets upside down??
+Ron Jernigan,
Not to worry! Installing the L-brackets upside down is a common practice with the e2 hitch (especially if you have a bottom mount coupler ua-cam.com/video/WM8e60mbqAM/v-deo.html), and is frequently done on the round bar hitch. As long as your weight distribution measurements check out, and the bolts holding the brackets are tight to the frame with no gaps above or below, you're fine. You can see the details of when and why they would be placed upside down in the owner's manual here: www.fastwaytrailer.com/support
And if you're still concerned, get in touch with our customer support team, and they can find answers to your questions. 877-523-9103 or support@fastwaytrailer.com.
@@FastwayTrailer I took the day today and Re-Set everything, new truck, with a Level, and installed the Roadmaster Active Suspension the other day. Just got done and everything is Much Better. This video was great, and Easy to follow! I just need to get that breakaway cable you show in the video!
I've got the e2 1000lb round bar hitch installed on a bottom mount coupler style trailer . The only way I can get the spring bars to be somewhat close to being parallel with the trailer frame is to have the L brackets on the very last set of holes . Is this ok ?
+AutoTech Jord,
Yes, having the L-brackets on the last set of holes is perfectly fine. Also, having the spring arms parallel to the frame is the ideal, but not absolutely necessary for the hitch to perform well. If you have not already done so, turn the link plates (trailer frame brackets) over, so that the studs that hold the L-brackets are toward the bottom of the frame instead of the top. This may allow you to use holes closer to the center of the L-brackets instead of the ones at the end, and will reduce the force applied to the link plates when you're towing. Here is a video about using the e2 hitch with bottom-mount couplers: ua-cam.com/video/WM8e60mbqAM/v-deo.html
Details of how to install the link plates are in the owner's manual, which you can get here: www.fastwaytrailer.com/manuals
FastwayTrailer . Yes I have already flipped the bracket for the L brackets. I will spend sometime and retry the setup procedure
+AutoTech Jord,
Good luck! Our customer support team is available to help as well if you would like to speak with them. You can reach them at: 877-523-9103 or support@fastwaytrailer.com.