Elin it might be worth mentioning that the long “dog bolt” that holds the crank pulley/fan extension, needs to be torqued to at least 120 ft pounds (I believe the manual says 140, but 120 will do the job). Also be sure to use a 5/8 6 point socket to do it, as a 12 point socket can damage the corners of that bolt, which are slightly rounded (and is currently unavailable to replace). As for the paint colors, if the owners likes it, then that’s all that matters. TOP GEAR!👍
Another excellent guide to this engine. There are many little secrets that must be known to successfully rebuild these engines and you are showing them all. Thanks, Elin!
As you were installing that long 'dog bolt' it reminded me of the few times I had to start my 1954 long-door TR-2 with a crank handle.. I often wondered years later whether there was a shortage of 4 AWG copper cable to make up jump leads ! 😅 .. Great video Elin..
@@johnsharonwhitaker9242 No.. I traded it in for a TR-3A in 1967 then traded that for a TR-4 in 1969.. Then I got married and that was that with TR ownership. 😅
Great video!! and very productive as well. Nice bit of editing as well. Rusty is a very tall dog!! I like the yellow and green combination, it was the colours of my football team many years ago!! Look forward to seeing you and Niko together soon. Good luck from Spain!!
If the car owner likes the yellow, great! A couple other small observations: With the front cover and sump pan, I like to put a straight edge on them and check that their flanges are nice and flat for a good, even seal. Another minor thing, the front engine cover of the 4 cylinder TR motor originally had a gob of something like Bondo body putty spread on it, under the paint. I think that was just done to mitigate engine noise. Can't think of any other reason, can you? I noticed it's not on that engeine cover, but someone going for an accurate concours restoration might take note. It just looks like the factory smeared on a bit of putty, about an 1/16th to 1/8th inch thick, then painted over it.
You are right, the flatness of the covers is important and I check it visually. There are always small deviations though as the gasket is so thick. So I just check it visually. Small imperfections are compensated for by the gasket.
Before closing the oil pan couldn't you block the crank to facilitate torqueing the front engine bolt without scaring the paint on the front of the engine assembly?
The yellow should really be oversprayed with the remainder of the green paint, that was the style for British engines of that era... everything in the company colour. It could ideally have been done in light grey like the Ferguson tractors that donated the engine ! Otherwise nice work, that engine is a testimony to how much abuse they can tolerate and howthey can be recovered. s
I could, yes. I am just used to being able to engage the gear in half a turn and backing it up is the shorter path. In this case it took a full turn, so yes, going another turn forward was the better option. But on the other hand it was clearer for the viewers, who are not so familiar with the engine. I didn't want to have to explain that from this point one turn forward is the same as one turn backwards.
🤣😂 People complaining about color choice!! How apathetic is that! It's not their ....... your choice or the customer's choice is all that matters. Geez!!!! Come on armchair mechanics, REALLY!!
Excellent explanation of the oil pump/distributor interface. So nice to see the engineering that goes into these great cars. Thank you Elin.
Elin it might be worth mentioning that the long “dog bolt” that holds the crank pulley/fan extension, needs to be torqued to at least 120 ft pounds (I believe the manual says 140, but 120 will do the job). Also be sure to use a 5/8 6 point socket to do it, as a 12 point socket can damage the corners of that bolt, which are slightly rounded (and is currently unavailable to replace).
As for the paint colors, if the owners likes it, then that’s all that matters.
TOP GEAR!👍
Taking my Saturday morning coffee while watching Elin’s latest video… priceless!
Elin, very informative !!!! even having done this on my 1962 TR4, I pick up a few tips on how to. thanks, really enjoyed the video....
Another excellent guide to this engine. There are many little secrets that must be known to successfully rebuild these engines and you are showing them all. Thanks, Elin!
It's interesting to see the way different manufacturers deal with the details like cam chain tensioning etc. The engine is looking great.
As you were installing that long 'dog bolt' it reminded me of the few times I had to start my 1954 long-door TR-2 with a crank handle.. I often wondered years later whether there was a shortage of 4 AWG copper cable to make up jump leads ! 😅 .. Great video Elin..
do you still have the car ? I have an early 2 here in western Manitoba. In 1967 I knew of 3 in Saskatoon with serial numbers below 400.
@@johnsharonwhitaker9242 No.. I traded it in for a TR-3A in 1967 then traded that for a TR-4 in 1969.. Then I got married and that was that with TR ownership. 😅
I like the colours. I only speak english and I am always groping for words too!
Another very interesting video. Don't forget the sump plug and washer.
I have it on already :) However there is no washer on these. It is like a plumbing plug, relying on its taper to seal.
Great video!! and very productive as well. Nice bit of editing as well. Rusty is a very tall dog!!
I like the yellow and green combination, it was the colours of my football team many years ago!!
Look forward to seeing you and Niko together soon.
Good luck from Spain!!
I like the yellow the color. It's like your outfit!
Elin, you should put the assembly lube on the inside of the chain, so that the lubricant is centrifuged out through the chain.
Regards,
Sandy 🔧🏴
Right. It is a very short period of time until the first oil comes. The chain comes lubricated so it is not so critical.
Hi Elin, as always top quality.
If the car owner likes the yellow, great!
A couple other small observations: With the front cover and sump pan, I like to put a straight edge on them and check that their flanges are nice and flat for a good, even seal.
Another minor thing, the front engine cover of the 4 cylinder TR motor originally had a gob of something like Bondo body putty spread on it, under the paint. I think that was just done to mitigate engine noise. Can't think of any other reason, can you? I noticed it's not on that engeine cover, but someone going for an accurate concours restoration might take note. It just looks like the factory smeared on a bit of putty, about an 1/16th to 1/8th inch thick, then painted over it.
You are right, the flatness of the covers is important and I check it visually. There are always small deviations though as the gasket is so thick. So I just check it visually. Small imperfections are compensated for by the gasket.
Before closing the oil pan couldn't you block the crank to facilitate torqueing the front engine bolt without scaring the paint on the front of the engine assembly?
I do it in the engine bay, when the transmission is mounted and I can just pull the ebrake.
On the through bolts into water jacket or oil, wouldn't it help to use thread lock/sealant on the threads?
Maybe it is a good idea, yes.
Are you going to show torquing the front cranking bolt?
Yes, when the engine is in the car
The bolt would 'bottom out' (engages full smugmode)
The yellow should really be oversprayed with the remainder of the green paint, that was the style for British engines of that era... everything in the company colour. It could ideally have been done in light grey like the Ferguson tractors that donated the engine !
Otherwise nice work, that engine is a testimony to how much abuse they can tolerate and howthey can be recovered.
s
Hi what make is your gasket maker regards tony
Aviation form-a-gasket by Permatex
Another episode and not a Stella in sight, are you losing the plot Elin?
I can assure you that he hasn’t….I was there a couple of days ago and there might have been a Stella or two consumed 😉
Oh, it is always there :) Just not filmed LOL
Why couldn't you just turn forward rather than backing up the Drive gear to TDC?
I could, yes. I am just used to being able to engage the gear in half a turn and backing it up is the shorter path. In this case it took a full turn, so yes, going another turn forward was the better option. But on the other hand it was clearer for the viewers, who are not so familiar with the engine. I didn't want to have to explain that from this point one turn forward is the same as one turn backwards.
🤣😂 People complaining about color choice!! How apathetic is that! It's not their ....... your choice or the customer's choice is all that matters. Geez!!!! Come on armchair mechanics, REALLY!!