I drive with a Scania 770 S over whole Europe ,before i drive with a Scania 730 S ... Greetings from The Netherlands a Dutch driver.... Your work is fantastic..
Great to hear you say you were going to wash the parts with soap and water. Too many, particularly younger model builders, are not aware of the fact that you really need to do that to get the mold releasing agent completely removed in order to get a good quality paint job. I have been a model builder for better than 68 years and I learned that the hard way....but at least I learned! Good job. 😉
Hi. I'm just new to this,so I noticed your comment on washing the parts to be painted in soap and water. Why is this important? What happens if you dont? I'm trying to learn. Thanks in advance.
@Loulovesspeed Perhaps I should've been more detailed in my question by adding how to deal with parts after you've washed them because how do you avoid further contamination when it comes to assembly? PS,what is mould releasing agent?
@@broadband1820 When the plastic parts are made, the plastic is heated to the liquid point, then injected into a mold that shapes the liquid into its final shape. To keep the part from sticking to the mold, a type of "oily fluid" is wiped into the mold before injecting the melted plastic into it. This allows the finished molded part to come out of the mold easily without sticking to it. This oily fluid must be removed in order to assure good paint adhesion. I spray window cleaner on the plastic trees before removing any parts - much easier to clean that each part separately. Then spray or rinse in fairly hot water to remove the cleaner and oily stuff. Once you have cleaned all the parts and they have dried, there is no further contamination and you are ready to paint and assemble them.
Great video, the real life version headlights are the same small leds shine from top down with a concave reflector. I will add I've never seen a truck with as bright headlight/spotlights, I've drove this truck middle of the night on small scottish roads and with full lights on easy travel 1 mile 🤣 it's like daylight
I like the Euros Trucks to. Every time I want to buy one you can scroll down the page and all they talk about is how hard they are to build. I've been building the 1/24 & 1/25th scale trucks for a long time and the Euros in those kits are a bit more challanging than the US Trucks. So with all that said, thank you for all the work you do to help people like me to learn how to work with these kits, as many have said, thanks for sharing your skills with us.
I personally wouldn't let that stop you from building a european truck, and that is someone with serious hand-eye co-ordination issues. yes the screws are small and fiddly, but not building a full scale truck!! haha, I do all the super small screws over several nights, then it is not so much of a pain. the hardest e-clip is the fifth wheel plate which is the same with all trucks. wiring should be done with building the truck and cable managed while building. but overall I can't complain and just starting my 2nd build which will be fully custom, and nothing has really put me off building a 2nd truck.
Hi Bob, Great building video! You were surprised by the short chassis rails. Since most European countries have strict laws which restrict trucks (tractor + trailer) lengths, most Euro trucks are short in design. This results in Cabover with trailers ‘hugging’ the cabs in order to maximise trailer lengths (and load capacity).
Wow great looking truck. Been wanting to build this one for awhile, but can't justify the cost of it right now. Looking forward to seeing the one with all the lights.
That's gorgeous Bob!! Somehow, I've got to find a way to get one. I want to mess with all the extra lighting! 😎👌 Looking forward to your lighting project!
Building one of these as I watch, I think the mudguards should be left plastic colour, as Euro UK models are made of rubber, or very thick plastic,very good build video, thanks..
Hi Bob those 2 on the bottom and and the top lights where are not hole,s or sockets for the leds are for very small daylight lightbulbs in the 1/1 truck. Ihave build this model but extended the frame, to pull a 4 axle A-frame trailer behind it.Swedisch style,and that scania build as a dream,it falls together without fighting it. It was good on the price,but well worth of it. I airbrusched the winds with 3 layers of tamiya smoke. And it looks gruweling nice. As always a nice vid from a build. Love to see the next one you build to haul a tanker,but a european style tanker,3 axle big belly tanker.
So I'm only halfway done my Globe Liner and I'm already looking to add a bunch of accessories, and aluminium versions of the tail boom on this kit keep popping up. I'll admit that my whole career has been running Freightliners for a single company, but all the trucks I've ever run have the same sloped end to the frame rails. It's actually a triangle cut from the upper part of the vertical wall of the C channel, and the top gets bent down and welded in place, then a reinforcing plate stuffed inside before the crossmember gets bolted in. Above the frame rail, some trucks had additional wedges bolted to the frame to continue the slope up. All this so, if a trailer sinks into the ground a bit, you can wedge the tail of your truck under (if you're lucky) and lift it high enough to get it over the mounting brackets and slider rails to get the ramps of the fifth wheel under the trailer. The additional wedges are less common on air ride trucks, but the frame ends are still ramped. Lifting wedges are practically standard on any truck with more than just the mandatory front quarter fender, because it's real easy to utterly mangle a fancy fender on an off-balance trailer. I'll have to plan on trimming a bit off the Globe Liner's rails to fit a set of ramps. But then I'll be tapping and drilling a lot of holes already, adding the air bags and full fenders.
Hi Bob great build demo as usual a few notes on your comments the chassis length looks to be roughly correct for a full sized European truck unlike Tamiya's R series Scania and MAN TGX Euro5/6 which are actually too long in scale The tank on the right behind the exhaust box which forms part of the control unit cover would be black with a blue cap and is in reality used for Adblu (In the US you call it something else but I'm not sure what that is ) In the interior behind the seats is the bottom bunk and under the bunk between the seats are two storage lockers which are a fridge and locker or freezer so could be covered over if desired and still be realistic the upper bunk which is slightly narrower than the first is hinged up from the rear cab bulkhead at around 45 degrees when not in use this bunk is sometimes replaced by additional storage . Above the windscreen are three more lockers which sit back several inches into the office space these are depending on the spec of the vehicle are a very dark grey in colour The sunroof glass is tinted so painting it Tamiya smoke wouldn't look totally unconvincing though on the real truck there is also an interior shade which blocks out the light when required. The front tyres are super singles not dissimilar to those used on European tri axle trailers but with a different tread pattern which can aid grip and increase the axle limit to 9 metric tonnes useful for heavier loads. Personally I would ditch the vibration unit modern Euro trucks do not noticeably vibrate on tick over I am wondering though if it will be possible to add a simulated air ride cab suspension unit in the S series model as you can with the the older Euro kits with tilting cabs. Oh and the real truck stands at around 13ft 6 with the air kit attached and a standard reefer trailer is 13ft 9 in case you're interested i move into my new truck tomorrow though not a Scania has a similar interior i can post some pics on your Facebook page if anyone would like them. Sorry for waffling on and again great video Bob cheers
Really enjoyed watching this! I’m not experienced in this kind of model building and its very intriguing. However, you kept referring to what I assume are electrical components that could be added. The abbreviations that you used are Greek to me. I would like to know what you mean and where and how to source them. Thanks for a great video.
That’s a good looking model, pretty accurate. I drive a Scania 540S in the UK, exactly the same truck as the model you have there (not that couloir though) S is the type of cab (largest Scania cab size) and 540 etc is the engine horsepower. 770 is the most powerful engine Scania currently make.
the new G.T power pro in the white box. it has no wires for control box its all on fone plus volume as well. less wires dont have to stress about what your going on about bob. you should try the new g.t power light sounds system out. its better then last easier to set up
Great job, that is a nice truck. Have you noticed the steering design flaw on these eurotrucks. Revers akerman. Compared to a us truck chassie the front axel and steering is mounted backwards bacause the gearbox is so close to the front axel and the steeringrod dont fit. This reduce turning radius as the front tyres fight each other and skids on tight turns. You can se this by comparing wheelangel at full lock, the inner wheel have less angel than the outer wheel, should be the other way around. Have modified all my trucks to fix this with only kit parts.
Hey Bob, can not wait for mine to be shipped. I know that I will have lots of questions for you concerning this build lol. Love your work and videos, keep them coming. Will talk to you soon 😊
Another great video Bob, I must build one. Do you think there would be any advantage in adding springs to the rear dampers, I would value your opinion.
I got the default motor and wanna replace it I can hear you say 45 turn engine but I can't see what motor you are using. Do you mind share or recommend one? And by the way. You video is really great thanks so mutch
Real nice. They cost about the same as a 1 day course to get a Heavy Rigid truck license in Australia, lol. I figure I should do that first perhaps, although an HC license would be required to drive a truck like this one.
One of my favorites for clear and chrome parts. Micro Krystal Klear. www.amazon.com/Micro-Kristal-Klear-Microscale-Industries/dp/B0006O029E/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2MJT5YSUKAT6L&keywords=micro+klear&qid=1673714718&sprefix=micro+klear%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-1
I’d like to think Tamiya take some ideas from the customers like the MFC behind the seats, we have been doing that for year by making false walls to mount them to, I’ve loved the look of this kit from its release but can’t understand why it’s priced so much more than any other 6x4 euro kit
I have just finished building one of these and don't have drive to both rear axles all the time, it just seems to spin the power away on the rear axle. Any guesses what I have done wrong? Or is this just the way they are? Any help would be appreciated.
HI.MR BOB How you doin i have question my question is you not show us How to you installing any part step by step you just cut of and you back Again with complate build You must show us How to install the part so that the audiance can benefit isn't that right MR BOB great video thx😊👐
I enjoy your videos. I want to get a tamyia kits , trouble is deciding which one. I would like to know is what do I need to buy , besides the kit to get started? Thank you for your help. Spencer
Hi Bob. I love your videos, thank you so much for all the effort. I had my first go at spraying on a cheap static model and that went well. This is a big truck, would it look ok / to scale / appropriate with a Tamiya flat bed trailer? Greeting from the Emerald Isle on St Bridget's Day - our new public holiday
Note:- the light lens on the front fender that faces backwards is actually a repeater lamp for the indicators…btw, I used to drive one of those pulling 4 axle low loader👍🏻
Hi Bob. I am curious why people put steering left/right on one joystick and forward/reverse on the other joystick. Is this conventional? I would think it is easier to control on one side and it would avoid triggering other functions by accident.
For these Tamiya kits frame rails are metal, and many small fittings and rods. Most is plastic but works fine. There are other brands that is almost all metal, like Lesu, Scaleclub, Rc4WD, but that's a much higher price range
no, i live in Southampton U.K and nearly every truck is 3 axled, Southampton is a large container ship port and all the trucks are massive, they're not nearly as long as American trucks though but taller.
I wonder why Tamiya don't start a classic truck range, British Foden, Scammell, ERF, older Mercedes, MAN or Busing, even older American trucks, I'm sure there would be a good market for classic trucks.
I drive with a Scania 770 S over whole Europe ,before i drive with a Scania 730 S ... Greetings from The Netherlands a Dutch driver.... Your work is fantastic..
Great to hear you say you were going to wash the parts with soap and water. Too many, particularly younger model builders, are not aware of the fact that you really need to do that to get the mold releasing agent completely removed in order to get a good quality paint job. I have been a model builder for better than 68 years and I learned that the hard way....but at least I learned! Good job. 😉
Hi. I'm just new to this,so I noticed your comment on washing the parts to be painted in soap and water. Why is this important? What happens if you dont? I'm trying to learn. Thanks in advance.
@@broadband1820 - Did you not read my whole comment? I explained why it is important to do this.
@Loulovesspeed Perhaps I should've been more detailed in my question by adding how to deal with parts after you've washed them because how do you avoid further contamination when it comes to assembly? PS,what is mould releasing agent?
@@broadband1820 When the plastic parts are made, the plastic is heated to the liquid point, then injected into a mold that shapes the liquid into its final shape. To keep the part from sticking to the mold, a type of "oily fluid" is wiped into the mold before injecting the melted plastic into it. This allows the finished molded part to come out of the mold easily without sticking to it. This oily fluid must be removed in order to assure good paint adhesion. I spray window cleaner on the plastic trees before removing any parts - much easier to clean that each part separately. Then spray or rinse in fairly hot water to remove the cleaner and oily stuff. Once you have cleaned all the parts and they have dried, there is no further contamination and you are ready to paint and assemble them.
Best TAMIYA truck building channel on UA-cam, love your detailing.
The Euros have always been my fav! There are so many third party accessories for them, way more than the American rigs. As always a great build video
Great video, the real life version headlights are the same small leds shine from top down with a concave reflector. I will add I've never seen a truck with as bright headlight/spotlights, I've drove this truck middle of the night on small scottish roads and with full lights on easy travel 1 mile 🤣 it's like daylight
I actually drive one of these, and they are lovely trucks! Much better than the few US trucks I've driven.
Building one of these now in the pre painted silver. Nice to have this video for reference.
Perfect combi what you are planning…. Camouflage painting and lighting like a Christmas tree
That is exactly what I am planning! With a few more surprises too!
I like the Euros Trucks to. Every time I want to buy one you can scroll down the page and all they talk about is how hard they are to build. I've been building the 1/24 & 1/25th scale trucks for a long time and the Euros in those kits are a bit more challanging than the US Trucks. So with all that said, thank you for all the work you do to help people like me to learn how to work with these kits, as many have said, thanks for sharing your skills with us.
I personally wouldn't let that stop you from building a european truck, and that is someone with serious hand-eye co-ordination issues. yes the screws are small and fiddly, but not building a full scale truck!! haha, I do all the super small screws over several nights, then it is not so much of a pain. the hardest e-clip is the fifth wheel plate which is the same with all trucks. wiring should be done with building the truck and cable managed while building. but overall I can't complain and just starting my 2nd build which will be fully custom, and nothing has really put me off building a 2nd truck.
I'm from the Netherlands, being on the road every day and see scanias Volvo's etc trucks like that every day, they are small to us haha
Hi Bob, Great building video! You were surprised by the short chassis rails. Since most European countries have strict laws which restrict trucks (tractor + trailer) lengths, most Euro trucks are short in design. This results in Cabover with trailers ‘hugging’ the cabs in order to maximise trailer lengths (and load capacity).
your truck looks brilliant.........well done
Nice build ,looks even better in the full size version.
Yes that is one beautiful truck....Excellent work.
Wow great looking truck. Been wanting to build this one for awhile, but can't justify the cost of it right now. Looking forward to seeing the one with all the lights.
Lovely truck and a great build Bob , thanks for sharing. 👍
Great truck, and very well paced video.
That's gorgeous Bob!! Somehow, I've got to find a way to get one. I want to mess with all the extra lighting! 😎👌
Looking forward to your lighting project!
Good job there
Building one of these as I watch, I think the mudguards should be left plastic colour, as Euro UK models are made of rubber, or very thick plastic,very good build video, thanks..
how much will u take for itt bob...
Hi Bob those 2 on the bottom and and the top lights where are not hole,s or sockets for the leds are for very small daylight lightbulbs in the 1/1 truck. Ihave build this model but extended the frame, to pull a 4 axle A-frame trailer behind it.Swedisch style,and that scania build as a dream,it falls together without fighting it. It was good on the price,but well worth of it. I airbrusched the winds with 3 layers of tamiya smoke. And it looks gruweling nice. As always a nice vid from a build. Love to see the next one you build to haul a tanker,but a european style tanker,3 axle big belly tanker.
Excelente trabajo!!!!
Wow , amazing 🤩 good job💪💪💪
You're just great, I admire your work, super!😍👍👍👍👌
Looks fantastic! You make it look so easy! Def one for me to consider...
Great job Bob. 👍Looking forward to your light solution.
this is my favorite truck. i wanna drive these truck now in euro truck simulator 2. lol
664❤️
Amazing and beautiful sharing friend
So I'm only halfway done my Globe Liner and I'm already looking to add a bunch of accessories, and aluminium versions of the tail boom on this kit keep popping up.
I'll admit that my whole career has been running Freightliners for a single company, but all the trucks I've ever run have the same sloped end to the frame rails. It's actually a triangle cut from the upper part of the vertical wall of the C channel, and the top gets bent down and welded in place, then a reinforcing plate stuffed inside before the crossmember gets bolted in.
Above the frame rail, some trucks had additional wedges bolted to the frame to continue the slope up.
All this so, if a trailer sinks into the ground a bit, you can wedge the tail of your truck under (if you're lucky) and lift it high enough to get it over the mounting brackets and slider rails to get the ramps of the fifth wheel under the trailer.
The additional wedges are less common on air ride trucks, but the frame ends are still ramped. Lifting wedges are practically standard on any truck with more than just the mandatory front quarter fender, because it's real easy to utterly mangle a fancy fender on an off-balance trailer.
I'll have to plan on trimming a bit off the Globe Liner's rails to fit a set of ramps. But then I'll be tapping and drilling a lot of holes already, adding the air bags and full fenders.
Great build Bob. Here in the Netherlands we have lots of Scania's driving around. Have you ever seen the Scania 770 XXL ??
Very nice truck. Be good to see with all of the lights
Superb presentation Bob
I think the micro leds would be a great idea for the tiny lights with no sockets.
Great job as always Bob
Hi Bob great build demo as usual a few notes on your comments the chassis length looks to be roughly correct for a full sized European truck unlike Tamiya's R series Scania and MAN TGX Euro5/6 which are actually too long in scale The tank on the right behind the exhaust box which forms part of the control unit cover would be black with a blue cap and is in reality used for Adblu (In the US you call it something else but I'm not sure what that is ) In the interior behind the seats is the bottom bunk and under the bunk between the seats are two storage lockers which are a fridge and locker or freezer so could be covered over if desired and still be realistic the upper bunk which is slightly narrower than the first is hinged up from the rear cab bulkhead at around 45 degrees when not in use this bunk is sometimes replaced by additional storage . Above the windscreen are three more lockers which sit back several inches into the office space these are depending on the spec of the vehicle are a very dark grey in colour The sunroof glass is tinted so painting it Tamiya smoke wouldn't look totally unconvincing though on the real truck there is also an interior shade which blocks out the light when required. The front tyres are super singles not dissimilar to those used on European tri axle trailers but with a different tread pattern which can aid grip and increase the axle limit to 9 metric tonnes useful for heavier loads. Personally I would ditch the vibration unit modern Euro trucks do not noticeably vibrate on tick over I am wondering though if it will be possible to add a simulated air ride cab suspension unit in the S series model as you can with the the older Euro kits with tilting cabs. Oh and the real truck stands at around 13ft 6 with the air kit attached and a standard reefer trailer is 13ft 9 in case you're interested i move into my new truck tomorrow though not a Scania has a similar interior i can post some pics on your Facebook page if anyone would like them. Sorry for waffling on and again great video Bob cheers
Andrew Davis ..good description, i drive one 5 nights a week
@@gary96397 I've got a New gen MAN 18.510
@@andrewdavis7017 that sounds likea nice unit..
@@gary96397 only had it a couple of weeks but yup she's a nice drive
i love your build vids
Really enjoyed watching this! I’m not experienced in this kind of model building and its very intriguing. However, you kept referring to what I assume are electrical components that could be added. The abbreviations that you used are Greek to me. I would like to know what you mean and where and how to source them. Thanks for a great video.
Watch earlier videos on my channel. A great place to start is the Globe Liner for Novices series.
That’s a good looking model, pretty accurate.
I drive a Scania 540S in the UK, exactly the same truck as the model you have there (not that couloir though) S is the type of cab (largest Scania cab size) and 540 etc is the engine horsepower. 770 is the most powerful engine Scania currently make.
hoje em dia nao é fácil de costruir um caminhao de brinquedo eu gostei de assistir
Great video 👍🏼
the new G.T power pro in the white box. it has no wires for control box its all on fone plus volume as well. less wires dont have to stress about what your going on about bob. you should try the new g.t power light sounds system out. its better then last easier to set up
It´s a beauty, nice build.
Brilliant job 🏴
Just a note the amber lens may be reflective lenses instead of side markers, that's why no pockets for LEDs.
Great job as always 👍👍👍
Great job 👍💪
If I buy this kit what will I have to buy to complete it fully and run it happily?
You need a radio, servos, speed control, battery and charger. Plus paint etc. to build it.
@@HobbyconceptsLLC thanks I would probably buy the stuff you have. Also what motor do you recommend as I see you use a better one? Cheers.
Great job, that is a nice truck. Have you noticed the steering design flaw on these eurotrucks. Revers akerman. Compared to a us truck chassie the front axel and steering is mounted backwards bacause the gearbox is so close to the front axel and the steeringrod dont fit. This reduce turning radius as the front tyres fight each other and skids on tight turns. You can se this by comparing wheelangel at full lock, the inner wheel have less angel than the outer wheel, should be the other way around. Have modified all my trucks to fix this with only kit parts.
Yes, on all the euro trucks. You can move the tie rod to the rear to fix it.
Yeah got mine fitted with a Carsson tie rod aftermarket. That one is cropped so it can cross under the transmission
fantastic build on that new Scania 770s Bob. & i just ordered one for my channel
Great job. Awesome video.
Loved your videos & your channel. Good bye. 00
Hey Bob, can not wait for mine to be shipped. I know that I will have lots of questions for you concerning this build lol. Love your work and videos, keep them coming. Will talk to you soon 😊
Do they send remote and colour for colouring the parts ??
Great video. I am building the same truck and find that as I mounted the gearbox in the coverparts it makes a lott of notice. Is tris normal?
How many cans of tamiya paint do you go through
I dont want to build this thing.😂so i watch your vlog😊
Works for me!!
Bom dia meu amigo
Qual cola vc usa para fixar as peças plásticas na cabine ?
Desde já agradeço
Another great video Bob, I must build one. Do you think there would be any advantage in adding springs to the rear dampers, I would value your opinion.
Once again great video. Thank you. Give Winston some love for me!
He was snoring in the background!!
Want to know if the Beier SFR-1 fits wher the Mfu does
Easily fits. The SFR-1 is quite a bit smaller than the Tamiya unit so many more mounting options.
what is the wheel base on that truck ?
Nice build
I got the default motor and wanna replace it I can hear you say 45 turn engine but I can't see what motor you are using. Do you mind share or recommend one?
And by the way. You video is really great thanks so mutch
Real nice. They cost about the same as a 1 day course to get a Heavy Rigid truck license in Australia, lol. I figure I should do that first perhaps, although an HC license would be required to drive a truck like this one.
Just bought my receiver, transmitter, and servos from you.
Do you sell a battery pack and charger that goes for this truck as well?
Sure do. If you have specific questions my email is in the video description.
What is the glue you use when you were assembling at around 13:00 mins
One of my favorites for clear and chrome parts. Micro Krystal Klear. www.amazon.com/Micro-Kristal-Klear-Microscale-Industries/dp/B0006O029E/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2MJT5YSUKAT6L&keywords=micro+klear&qid=1673714718&sprefix=micro+klear%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-1
@@HobbyconceptsLLC Many thanks. I've just ordered some.
What motor have you used for this build?
55 Turn
Here europe often we lock the transmission in 1st gear en use the serve thats originally for transmission as the steering servo
Mantap bang 👍👍👍
I’d like to think Tamiya take some ideas from the customers like the MFC behind the seats, we have been doing that for year by making false walls to mount them to, I’ve loved the look of this kit from its release but can’t understand why it’s priced so much more than any other 6x4 euro kit
I have just finished building one of these and don't have drive to both rear axles all the time, it just seems to spin the power away on the rear axle. Any guesses what I have done wrong? Or is this just the way they are? Any help would be appreciated.
Is it right that No Controller comes with the Truck?
That is correct.
HI.MR BOB How you doin i have question my question is you not show us How to you installing any part step by step you just cut of and you back Again with complate build You must show us How to install the part so that the audiance can benefit isn't that right MR BOB great video thx😊👐
This was not a complete build but more like a review and build. Don't worry more complete builds coming!
@@HobbyconceptsLLC very well thx Again 😊
what is the glue your are using to stick the decals on
Tamiya decals are self sticking.
@@HobbyconceptsLLC its just that you use and talk about some crystal clear glue
one question can I replace brush ed motor with Brushless?? If so best one and esc please
You could but I don't use them myself so can't comment on which is good to use.
What sort of age kid would this be suitable for?
Adults who act like kids! Me as a perfect example :-)
Wow Are they really the same scale?
They are!
I enjoy your videos. I want to get a tamyia kits , trouble is deciding which one. I would like to know is what do I need to buy , besides the kit to get started? Thank you for your help. Spencer
Hi Bob. I love your videos, thank you so much for all the effort. I had my first go at spraying on a cheap static model and that went well.
This is a big truck, would it look ok / to scale / appropriate with a Tamiya flat bed trailer?
Greeting from the Emerald Isle on St Bridget's Day - our new public holiday
Ps. Have you tried the Beier android app? Would it do away with the need for a radio?
You still need a radio to drive it but could use the app for lights. The flatbed trailer looks ok with the 770S but bigger trailers are even better!
😅😅😅 cool video
Note:- the light lens on the front fender that faces backwards is actually a repeater lamp for the indicators…btw, I used to drive one of those pulling 4 axle low loader👍🏻
Thank you! Good to know, I was not sure if they were running or turn signals. Figured I would look at some real 770 videos before I light one up!
@@HobbyconceptsLLC It’s a lovely wagon, going to look the dogs when it’s done👍🏻👊🏻
Hi Bob. I am curious why people put steering left/right on one joystick and forward/reverse on the other joystick. Is this conventional? I would think it is easier to control on one side and it would avoid triggering other functions by accident.
That is the normal setup, throttle on the left and steering on the right.
Helo bro whats up there is a shiping to isreal thanks ?
I only ship in the U.S.
Is this kit mostly metal ? I have seen ones with more metal parts and some with a lot of plastic parts ???
For these Tamiya kits frame rails are metal, and many small fittings and rods. Most is plastic but works fine. There are other brands that is almost all metal, like Lesu, Scaleclub, Rc4WD, but that's a much higher price range
Are these for sale on your website? :)
Sure is. hobbyconcepts.net/products/1-14-r-c-scania-770-s-6x4?_pos=1&_sid=f1ba7b06a&_ss=r
Hi Bob could please build an MAN or HINO sometime.
I want one ❤
😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
請問你居住地方在那處，因我鐘意玩這種RC模型，價錢大概多少
how is this different to the r620 apart from the higher roof.£200 more expensive..anyone know why??
Hi bob please build a mercedes actross 3363 full with details video all lights & other thing plesae
Pity they don't do a mote detailed static kit with a rhd option interior.
The euro Trucks DO NOT HAVE TWIN AXLE only single axle... Not euro model ... It might be a euro model but not sold in eruop
Uhmmm... You might do some checking... www.scania.com/group/en/home/products-and-services/trucks/v8.html
no, i live in Southampton U.K and nearly every truck is 3 axled, Southampton is a large container ship port and all the trucks are massive, they're not nearly as long as American trucks though but taller.
There's thousands of twin axle euro trucks on the road all euro spec and sold in europe
Сколько стоит такой набор
I drive these on the daily the S Is the tallest and biggest the R is slightly smaller and P - G is the baby
🔥💕👌👍
damn, that's big toy
why aren't you making more videos
I wonder why Tamiya don't start a classic truck range, British Foden, Scammell, ERF, older Mercedes, MAN or Busing, even older American trucks, I'm sure there would be a good market for classic trucks.
A market would be there, but hardly big enough for Tamiya which is all about mass-production at a relatively high volume.
Нельзя текст перевести на русский