I do like this guy, he's so easy to listen to and the way he explains things and the methods is fantastic. He's a real asset to anyone learning how to do DIY. 🙂👍
Thank you for the tutorial video. I saved $1100.00 by re-pointing some bricks on the chimney. This project took a lot longer than I had expected because I don't have a wheelbarrow. I mixed several batches of mortar mix in a plastic storage container. Wear a face mask when handling mortar mix.
I love this! I love seeing masonry work, carpentry work, electrical work, plumbing work, Everything this old house does, turns me on! Very informative.
wow a flash back to my summer as a youth !! my dad would do tuck pointing jobs in the summer just in time for my summer vacation from school. I was the mud maker Trust me when I say I earn every dime. Good stuff guys love your show.
I have a few areas that need to be repointed on my house this year. I have done it before but this was a nice refresher on the process. Luckily its not a large amount, so It will only take a few hours. The crazy winter in Michigan really did a number on a few things around the house.
use a portland lime mix (it comes in a bag but you have to add sand at 3:1 ratio) or make your own 1-1-6 mix using 1 part lime, 1 part portland cement, 6 parts sand
There are different mortar types for different purposes. Type N mortar is for above-ground external load-bearing bricks. Type S is for below-grade external bricks. Type M is for below-grade heavy loads. Type O is for above-grade internal non-load-bearing bricks.
Good luck finding a raker bar. A plugging chisel would work on a small job like this. I suggest usig a lime mortar (no portland cement content). You can mix it your self or get it from limeworks.us. They also sell plugging chisels.
5:50 got mortar all over the face of the brick.. you should keep the face of the brick clean of mortar or you'll get mortar stains all over your wall! Another tip - after you've removed the old mortar with the chisel or power tool you should blow all the dust out of the joints with a dust blower or soft brush before you wet the joints otherwise you will have wet or dry dust in your joints when you point and it will ruin the bonding of the mortar with the brick
Love how absurdly obvious the names for stuff are. 'Now we will start pointing the wall, this thing is called a pointer'' ''Now were going to put some mortar on this board, it's called a mortar board'' Can tell it's builders that have made these names hahaha
The drain is too close to foundation. Extend the exit 24" away from foundation with a sloped downspout extension guard. This will occur again and may be the reason why it was done before.
Great video, didn't know how much mortar hardness played a role when repointing old brickwork. But I have a question, the video mentioned to use mortar that is softer than the existing mortar. What if the mortar being replaced was comparable to type K mortar, which has the least Portland cement, should we use type K mortar or use a mix of lime and sand only?
I’m not so certain he did. He had to move the mortar underneath the overhanging brick and probably didn’t want to risk getting mortar on that same bring as well.. so the most logical thing to do would be to throw it on the side and then bring it over.
@@blatherskyt You seem to be right but whenever I replay the video at that timestamp, it looks like he aimed below the brick but spilled some mortar on the ground
What would you recommend for the foundation that is not visible? Obviously excavating around the foundation and perhaps exterior water proofing in addition to this maybe?
Just that I looking for thank you so much because I was trying to see if I can do it myself I do not have a lot of money to be paying anyone so do you think a first-time person I never did it before
+Nina Woodson I think you could do this. I'd say practice in a small area first and be happy with it before moving onto the rest. Also make sure your mortar mixes are right!
did you do it? I was watching for the same reason and I think I can do it now. This gave me the confidence. And no special tools really is great. I hope you got your job done easier and more informed too. Peace.
That women is so funny when Tom is telling her about using the hammer and chisel - you don't want to hit your hand. Ha! Notice how far she holds the chisel from the top compared to Tom. Maybe wear a glove on the chisel hand. She did real good too!
Have brick layer and concrete contractors friends that always use a bonding agent before trying to meet up existing material to new , Larson bond For people watching this
@@JohnPeter1940 that would be too strong a mix, the original mortar looked like the binder was lime. A 3:1 sand: cement mix would speed up the the face of the brick blowing off.
Did you say the mortar need to be softer then use portland cement? Looks like the original was lime and that should be matched. Cement pointing over lime causes problems over time
What is the paint that was over the bricks? you can see in the video it was removed. I have same paint on my brick foundation and was wondering pros and cons of removing?
So my house is built around 1910-1920 and I was using Home Depot masonry mix is this wrong for repointing the brick outside that's compromised from rain water bouncing off the cement walk way?
I've been a professional tuckpointing for 34 years the quota for tuck point is 300 square feet a day to cut old motor out use a grinder with a diamond blade rinse the wall out with a water hose mud must be tighter than Brick laying mud
It reminds me of the "I had to walk to school uphill, both ways, through 6 ft of snow, barefoot" etc. A realistic number is 1 square or 100 sq/ft a day. That includes grinding, mixing your own mud, pointing and cleanup.
I could imagine having a piece of wood something similar to a board and I need a place where to lay my mortar at while handling to the wall so I get my mortar board and stop pretending I'm an expert
I have fascia cracks on my rental property.. bricks displaced from a garage parking mishap and missing morter in a few places IM trying to figure out how to do this haven't decided yet if i have the courage to do it .. I got some tubes of morter like substances.. hmmm
I've got a 1900 century New England styled house with a brick foundation. What type of motor do I use?... The old motor is turning to sand or is very loose/missing.
Can anyone recommend the right type of cement that I can buy in the store to hold my old brick foundation together? I am not going to tuck point per se but want to spread something over the bricks to have sort of a smooth look. Hoping it's something I can find at Home Depot or Lowes.
Not only that but old mortar can contain ASBESTOS. Even if it doesn't you should still wear a respirator mask. Gloves too because cement will burn your skin and contains harmful chemicals!
I'm a Mason 32yrs laying now I guess things are done differently everywhere I do alot of brick repair and joint refills u got the jist of it down I never seen mortar thrown in bed joint that way unless done by an amateur I use a 3/8"-1/2" tuck pointer and My trowel I'm not saying ur doing anything wrong just different from how I do things
I saw the blooper reel for this episode, the guy comes out of the house in a baby diaper, licking an oversized lollipop. He says, "baby made a fudgie," and Tom goes to the tool box for the desitin and baby wipes. The lady then Kung Fu kicks the lollipop out of his hands and screams get to work!! It pretty good.
banging on an old brick foundation like that could lead to more unnecessary work. Here in the midwest we use a grinder, lot less vibration and faster than a raking tool. but to each their own
I had a question about head joints that are at the bottom few rows, just above the foundation. I've been told they're for weeping? Can someone help clarify pls?
Some heads are purposely left open for a weep, cotton rope layed in the head joint is a weep. These are in the first couple rows. Usually right above the flashing layed in the wall
An 8mm mortar blade for a 4" angle grinder would be a better tool to use for raking out, also he said a soft mortar for repointing, this is true but not too weak, i use a 4 to 1 ratio i.e 4 sand 1 cement for all repointing.
+d4nnyth3dog you want to use what was used originally on the house. If that's lime mortar, then use 1 parts lime putty (slaked quicklime) and 3 parts sand. some masons used preslaked, powdered lime, others hydraulic lime. it's always the safest bet to just match what was used originally and keep it damp and let it cure slowly so it can absorb CO2 from the atmosphere and cure properly.
I am about to start a similar repair job and am wondering about the type of mortar to use. Reading I think it should be either s or n. My bricks are quite old and perhaps a bit softer than new bricks which makes me think perhaps n. Any suggestions?
+M2 Photos Type N premix or Type N Masonry Cement adding your own mason sand at a ratio of 1 1/2 sand to 1 Masonry Cement. I suggest adding an acrylic additive to help bonding. It's the same they use in tile.
type n is easier to work with exspecially if the temperature is warm or lot of wind ...type s dries out quicker. ..and makes it harder to keep in a workable state
That`s the wrong hammer for hitting the chisel with and at 5:50 there was no head joint to speak of so being unable to fill it with the mortar mix would let in water,
Pre ww2 most likely lime mortar. If you can take a piece of mortar out the wall and add some vinegar to it, if it's lime you'll see some bubbles. I'd try and use quicklime and sharp sand at a mix of 3 sand to 1 lime.
What a painstaking way to remove old mortar an angle grinder with a raking disc would make the job so much easier.. also if the mortar is mixed to the right consistency there's no need to spray water onto the brick work
Seems like you kind of abandoned the topic of matching the flexural/ hardness properties of the mortar, with the brick. More discussion on that topic would be nice!. Great looking job! Thanks for the video!
+Trophy Everything expands and contracts differently. Many of the old brick buildings (mills especially) have mortar that is almost powder but the walls have no cracks. Now most brick buildings after 5 yrs old have cracks because Engineers have created mortars that are too hard and don't flex enough. I've been a mason for 25 yrs and have learned that you can point a building but not a chimney due to expansion and contraction.
+James Morgan Hm... this looks like an old house, 110 years or more old? Shouldn't they use lime mortar for pointing rather than cement based one? We are having lots of problems in UK with old houses that were repointed with cement mortar when it should have been lime!
+Trophy mortar is considered sacraficial.....that means it should fail before the brick does.....time can weaken bricks so each case may be different but as a rule if the brick has cracked....themortar was too strong......but quit often its old lime and its powdering out.replace with fresh lime mix....they used to use a tallow lime mix to putty the exposed face of the join and make it water proof.
I feel like buying a very old house just to be able to do all the things this guy teaches!
as someone with a century house, its a ton of work but very rewarding. Just don't over pay for the house lol
I do like this guy, he's so easy to listen to and the way he explains things and the methods is fantastic.
He's a real asset to anyone learning how to do DIY. 🙂👍
i love you Tom Silva. you're awesome. remind me of my grampa who raised me. thanks for your instructions. and your manner of instructing.
Thank you for the tutorial video. I saved $1100.00 by re-pointing some bricks on the chimney. This project took a lot longer than I had expected because I don't have a wheelbarrow. I mixed several batches of mortar mix in a plastic storage container. Wear a face mask when handling mortar mix.
I love this! I love seeing masonry work, carpentry work, electrical work, plumbing work, Everything this old house does, turns me on! Very informative.
wow a flash back to my summer as a youth !! my dad would do tuck pointing jobs in the summer just in time for my summer vacation from school. I was the mud maker Trust me when I say I earn every dime. Good stuff guys love your show.
Loads of work to do on my new-old house. Super helpful! Thanks!
ua-cam.com/video/D75rnwjrH6I/v-deo.html
If u want to learn about estimation of bricks
Then visit it
I have a few areas that need to be repointed on my house this year. I have done it before but this was a nice refresher on the process. Luckily its not a large amount, so It will only take a few hours. The crazy winter in Michigan really did a number on a few things around the house.
I love this channel, they always put people to work 😂love it
Good video. I’m going to be attempting this on my house soon. Foundation in starting to bow out on a spot
Mad props to that dude for not giggling when Tom Silva said "pack it in there gooood and tight."
I'd be going for deeper than 1"!
That’s because he is grown unlike half the people in the comments with a perverted mind.
I love brick and stone exteriors; in my opinion the best for homes. Sigh someday I'll have my own. Nice quick tutorial TOH thanks for sharing :-).
Do you want mine? It needs a lot of work ha!
@@the_realJP_ lol sure haha
did you ever get one?
Good work and advice. I do a lot of lime mortar repointing of listed buildings in the UK
Good help and good work for public god bless you long long live you.
Appreciated the demo of the technique but really would have loved more info on old mortar appropriate for older brick.
+rattl3d lime mix....easy.2 -3lime ...1 cement.....15 sand.
use a portland lime mix (it comes in a bag but you have to add sand at 3:1 ratio)
or make your own 1-1-6 mix using 1 part lime, 1 part portland cement, 6 parts sand
There are different mortar types for different purposes.
Type N mortar is for above-ground external load-bearing bricks.
Type S is for below-grade external bricks.
Type M is for below-grade heavy loads.
Type O is for above-grade internal non-load-bearing bricks.
@@mit5937 wow I used Regular Motar in Bag some Pointing joints were 1 inch Deep in Cinder Block style Foundation built in 1920.
"You guys are ready to become masons!...
...just put on this goat head and white apron..."
Hey now, it's takes more than that to become a freemason and the goat was a bad joke from way back when...
Ouch.
Call me a worshipful Master
G stands for Gnosticism
I've always used cake bags to fill in the mortar joints. might have to try it this way and see if it's faster.
Hss anyone seen Mike Hunt!
Getting a cherry bang.
Very Informative
Thank you for sharing this. I now have the confidence to make it happen. Peace
ua-cam.com/video/D75rnwjrH6I/v-deo.html
If u want to learn bricks estimation
Then visit it
I've never heard of this method, very interesting
Fantastic video.
I really enjoy watching your videos
I would have thought this was a much bigger problem but he solved it pretty easy
Good luck finding a raker bar. A plugging chisel would work on a small job like this. I suggest usig a lime mortar (no portland cement content). You can mix it your self or get it from limeworks.us. They also sell plugging chisels.
5:50 got mortar all over the face of the brick.. you should keep the face of the brick clean of mortar or you'll get mortar stains all over your wall!
Another tip - after you've removed the old mortar with the chisel or power tool you should blow all the dust out of the joints with a dust blower or soft brush before you wet the joints otherwise you will have wet or dry dust in your joints when you point and it will ruin the bonding of the mortar with the brick
Love how absurdly obvious the names for stuff are. 'Now we will start pointing the wall, this thing is called a pointer'' ''Now were going to put some mortar on this board, it's called a mortar board'' Can tell it's builders that have made these names hahaha
In Swedish the tools have weird names :p
Pointer is actually called a finger trowel and the mortar board is called a hawk.
Moarta
Its called a tuck point
Thst brick repair was really woeful
He is a handyman not a mason, its not woeful though.
He's got a really nice motar mix without too much water.
I’m a floor installer, but still interesting to watch! Awesome content, and channel! #ThisOldHouse
Wow, they actually cleaned out that mortar pretty damn cleanly. That looked really well done.
"Really good and tight huh?"
Maintains straight face :|
bed joints are the best
Very helpful
"Lets start by removing this brick"... house falls down
ThePookaHarvey Sdsd
hopefully the bricks are tied into the studs!
The drain is too close to foundation. Extend the exit 24" away from foundation with a sloped downspout extension guard. This will occur again and may be the reason why it was done before.
I'm thinking like that....
I was expecting a prop of some type. In the formwork industry they have heaps of them. Some will carry 10 ton
I have a cinderblock foundation wall that has been previously repointed and painted but done poorly. Can I use a grinder to remove the bad mortar?
Great video, didn't know how much mortar hardness played a role when repointing old brickwork. But I have a question, the video mentioned to use mortar that is softer than the existing mortar. What if the mortar being replaced was comparable to type K mortar, which has the least Portland cement, should we use type K mortar or use a mix of lime and sand only?
Just what I was looking for! Great info! Thax
Tom is such a gentlemen from 2:45 - 2:47.
4:58 missed
I’m not so certain he did. He had to move the mortar underneath the overhanging brick and probably didn’t want to risk getting mortar on that same bring as well.. so the most logical thing to do would be to throw it on the side and then bring it over.
@@blatherskyt You seem to be right but whenever I replay the video at that timestamp, it looks like he aimed below the brick but spilled some mortar on the ground
As someone who does this type of work for a living, I'd highly recommend a glove on the hand holding the chisel.
I love this old house..
What would you recommend for the foundation that is not visible? Obviously excavating around the foundation and perhaps exterior water proofing in addition to this maybe?
Thank you. This was very helpful.
seriouslynow22 No, it wasn’t. There was some terrible advice, if you know what good advice was!
That was awesome
Chicago tuckpointers are the best!! This guy is a scab..
Good Job!
Just that I looking for thank you so much because I was trying to see if I can do it myself I do not have a lot of money to be paying anyone so do you think a first-time person I never did it before
+Nina Woodson I think you could do this. I'd say practice in a small area first and be happy with it before moving onto the rest. Also make sure your mortar mixes are right!
did you do it? I was watching for the same reason and I think I can do it now. This gave me the confidence. And no special tools really is great. I hope you got your job done easier and more informed too. Peace.
That women is so funny when Tom is telling her about using the hammer and chisel - you don't want to hit your hand. Ha! Notice how far she holds the chisel from the top compared to Tom. Maybe wear a glove on the chisel hand. She did real good too!
so useful, big thumbs up
Have brick layer and concrete contractors friends that always use a bonding agent before trying to meet up existing material to new , Larson bond
For people watching this
With the raking bar, should you remove a cone shape or all of the mortar? (I'm guessing the latter, but wanted to confirm.)
His exactly like my dad, except with out all the swearing and abusive language when telling me how and what to do.git to love your dad's ay.
The girl, “Don’t leave me!” Haha, she’s funny
That was my first time seeing a festool wheel barrel
Nice tools(antiques)
work construccion
#1
Can you do just a single bed or head joint repointing? or Do you have to do the complete section?
What type of mortar you using Tommy, I guess its not best to say as its a hot topic so you leave us guessing.
1 cement 3 parts sand
@@JohnPeter1940 that would be too strong a mix, the original mortar looked like the binder was lime. A 3:1 sand: cement mix would speed up the the face of the brick blowing off.
Can i do this if i have brick steps? I notice some of brick is moves
If all the mortar is scrapable, how strong is it when only one inch of new mortar is used on the bricks?
Quicker to use a Angle Grinder, better than trying to rake the old mortar out !!
sickening amount of dust and debris
Did you say the mortar need to be softer then use portland cement? Looks like the original was lime and that should be matched. Cement pointing over lime causes problems over time
What is the paint that was over the bricks? you can see in the video it was removed. I have same paint on my brick foundation and was wondering pros and cons of removing?
So my house is built around 1910-1920 and I was using Home Depot masonry mix is this wrong for repointing the brick outside that's compromised from rain water bouncing off the cement walk way?
the down spout should be extended 5-20 feet from the house- discharging water into the basement there too
What kind of mortor would you use? He said it needs to be softer than the brick. I have some repairs that need to be done on a wall at my home. Thanks
Research Lime mortar
Can’t find a rakeing bar anywhere. What is the next best thing?
I've been a professional tuckpointing for 34 years the quota for tuck point is 300 square feet a day to cut old motor out use a grinder with a diamond blade rinse the wall out with a water hose mud must be tighter than Brick laying mud
I would love to see you grind out and point 300 sq/ft in an 8 hr day. I will put my foot in my mouth when you upload a video showing this.
cwinter84 only tuckpoint 300 feet a day
No way you're grinding and pointing 300 sq ft per day. Especially if the mortar is reasonably hard. If it's dust, maybe.
It reminds me of the "I had to walk to school uphill, both ways, through 6 ft of snow, barefoot" etc. A realistic number is 1 square or 100 sq/ft a day. That includes grinding, mixing your own mud, pointing and cleanup.
I can do 600, and my grandmother does 850.
4:43 this is called a piece of wood the mortar boards have a handle in the bottom
I could imagine having a piece of wood something similar to a board and I need a place where to lay my mortar at while handling to the wall so I get my mortar board and stop pretending I'm an expert
Simple homeowner repair, just take your time and it'll come out great.
I have fascia cracks on my rental property..
bricks displaced from a garage parking mishap and missing morter in a few places
IM trying to figure out how to do this haven't decided yet if i have the courage to do it .. I got some tubes of morter like substances.. hmmm
+Kim H don't be a cheap fuck hire a mason. Tubes aren't for structural brick.
+Kim H do 1 at a time.....learn.
+Steve F they are all such prima donnas.
I like the way she holds the shissle
Does the same process apply to stone?
Sweet😀
I've got a 1900 century New England styled house with a brick foundation. What type of motor do I use?... The old motor is turning to sand or is very loose/missing.
The muck smeared up all the faces 🤣🤣🤣🤣
So-what was the softer mortar that was used? Most yards just stock type N or S which are for modern harder brick.
Can't wait to hear the comments saying they would fire him on the spot.
Can anyone recommend the right type of cement that I can buy in the store to hold my old brick foundation together? I am not going to tuck point per se but want to spread something over the bricks to have sort of a smooth look. Hoping it's something I can find at Home Depot or Lowes.
That’s called a parge and would recommend just calling local mason union
He tells them to put on safety glasses and then puts on his snap together readers.
John Creutzinger lol
Perhaps he wants to "read" the joints. Ha ha ha
+Nova Caldera think he would be better smoking one lol
Cavern1234 Ha ha ha ha.....spot on!!!! LOL
Not only that but old mortar can contain ASBESTOS. Even if it doesn't you should still wear a respirator mask. Gloves too because cement will burn your skin and contains harmful chemicals!
Packing the joint, should be easy I’m quite experience with that
The appropriate way to do this , its better to use caulking , cement will crack again , caulking won't
This is how a handyman would do it,been fixing hadyman messes all the time,real masons do it differently.
I'm a Mason 32yrs laying now I guess things are done differently everywhere I do alot of brick repair and joint refills u got the jist of it down I never seen mortar thrown in bed joint that way unless done by an amateur I use a 3/8"-1/2" tuck pointer and My trowel I'm not saying ur doing anything wrong just different from how I do things
Nice
I saw the blooper reel for this episode, the guy comes out of the house in a baby diaper, licking an oversized lollipop. He says, "baby made a fudgie," and Tom goes to the tool box for the desitin and baby wipes. The lady then Kung Fu kicks the lollipop out of his hands and screams get to work!! It pretty good.
1:44 Pro move with the readers, probably learned from Trethewey
What type of mortar did you use??
banging on an old brick foundation like that could lead to more unnecessary work. Here in the midwest we use a grinder, lot less vibration and faster than a raking tool. but to each their own
I had a question about head joints that are at the bottom few rows, just above the foundation. I've been told they're for weeping? Can someone help clarify pls?
Some heads are purposely left open for a weep, cotton rope layed in the head joint is a weep. These are in the first couple rows. Usually right above the flashing layed in the wall
An 8mm mortar blade for a 4" angle grinder would be a better tool to use for raking out, also he said a soft mortar for repointing, this is true but not too weak, i use a 4 to 1 ratio i.e 4 sand 1 cement for all repointing.
+d4nnyth3dog you want to use what was used originally on the house. If that's lime mortar, then use 1 parts lime putty (slaked quicklime) and 3 parts sand. some masons used preslaked, powdered lime, others hydraulic lime. it's always the safest bet to just match what was used originally and keep it damp and let it cure slowly so it can absorb CO2 from the atmosphere and cure properly.
Does the brick hold up the mortar or the other way around?
I am about to start a similar repair job and am wondering about the type of mortar to use. Reading I think it should be either s or n. My bricks are quite old and perhaps a bit softer than new bricks which makes me think perhaps n. Any suggestions?
+Paul Hughes smash it ,put it in a jar....shake it up,let it settle....too easy.1 lime 1 cement 5 sand.
+M2 Photos go look up what it is you are thinking.
+M2 Photos Type N premix or Type N Masonry Cement adding your own mason sand at a ratio of 1 1/2 sand to 1 Masonry Cement. I suggest adding an acrylic additive to help bonding. It's the same they use in tile.
+UNRAVELING THE MATRIX You have no idea what you are talking about.
type n is easier to work with exspecially if the temperature is warm or lot of wind ...type s dries out quicker. ..and makes it harder to keep in a workable state
That`s the wrong hammer for hitting the chisel with and at 5:50 there was no head joint to speak of so being unable to fill it with the mortar mix would let in water,
you can also use mortar in a war against the enemy
nice
How do I know what type of mortar to use on a 1925 house?
The not too hard one.
82mm will do a thing
Type n. It's a softer mortor
Pre ww2 most likely lime mortar. If you can take a piece of mortar out the wall and add some vinegar to it, if it's lime you'll see some bubbles.
I'd try and use quicklime and sharp sand at a mix of 3 sand to 1 lime.
1925 mortar...😁😁😁
What a painstaking way to remove old mortar an angle grinder with a raking disc would make the job so much easier.. also if the mortar is mixed to the right consistency there's no need to spray water onto the brick work
Have you a link for a raking bar
Seems like you kind of abandoned the topic of matching the flexural/ hardness properties of the mortar, with the brick. More discussion on that topic would be nice!. Great looking job!
Thanks for the video!
+Trophy Everything expands and contracts differently. Many of the old brick buildings (mills especially) have mortar that is almost powder but the walls have no cracks. Now most brick buildings after 5 yrs old have cracks because Engineers have created mortars that are too hard and don't flex enough. I've been a mason for 25 yrs and have learned that you can point a building but not a chimney due to expansion and contraction.
+James Morgan Hm... this looks like an old house, 110 years or more old?
Shouldn't they use lime mortar for pointing rather than cement based one?
We are having lots of problems in UK with old houses that were repointed with cement mortar when it should have been lime!
+Trophy mortar is considered sacraficial.....that means it should fail before the brick does.....time can weaken bricks so each case may be different but as a rule if the brick has cracked....themortar was too strong......but quit often its old lime and its powdering out.replace with fresh lime mix....they used to use a tallow lime mix to putty the exposed face of the join and make it water proof.
+Ella Nola they need to dry out....cement mortar prevents that.
+James Morgan never done a chimney....whats the go...?
I need to repoint the whole side of my house. damn
Billy Rigney 4 years later, did you do it and how’d it come out?
5 years later. Please update us.
How much would a job like this cost to get done???
ok thank you