I got the 500 series of this speaker and it won't power on. The outside fuse right by the power connections looks good. I'm going to tear into it tomorrow, just wondering where I should start looking first. I can't seem to find any repair manuals for this setup online. Thanks.
Watch the video on the mixer board. You likely have a blown MC3038 Op amp chip. There are about 20 of them. Usually you can diagnose with a voltmeter, Also check the wiper hasn't dropped of the boost/cut switch. Just short it out if it has. It is a useless and dangerous control. It is OK if you like buying tweeters.
I wondered about that. It is very whispy so it is difficult to imagine that it could have an effect on the sound but you could be right. It would be interesting to know for sure.
Before you suspect the electronics check the main switch isn't faulty.. They do fail and usually they come on for a second. If the switch is Ok then there is an electronic fault.
You will need to changethe 2 big transistors the larger 10 ohm resistors, the four transistors in the complementary gate drivers, the 49.9 Ohm 0805 resistors, the MX Half bridge driver chip and the TL494 PWM manager and the LNK302 offline switch buck controller. the B+ has gotten into the low voltage electronics. It is all in the videos complete with part numbers.
Mate, your videos about JBL series have been "the light in the end of the tunnel" to me! Thanks a lot!
Thanks. Just passing it on...
@@razenby for shure!
where are you located I need one fixed
Reading , UK
Australia
I got the 500 series of this speaker and it won't power on. The outside fuse right by the power connections looks good. I'm going to tear into it tomorrow, just wondering where I should start looking first. I can't seem to find any repair manuals for this setup online. Thanks.
A common fault. The power circuitry is virtually identical to the JBL EON 315
Is there a way to remove the screen/grill without removing any of the wires to the components? Thanks for the video!
You cant do much as the drivers mount from teh back. Hence I have never had to remove the grille itself.
Mine barely plays sound when connected. You can just barely hear it and the mic gain helps some but not really. Any idea on where to start?
Watch the video on the mixer board. You likely have a blown MC3038 Op amp chip. There are about 20 of them. Usually you can diagnose with a voltmeter, Also check the wiper hasn't dropped of the boost/cut switch. Just short it out if it has. It is a useless and dangerous control. It is OK if you like buying tweeters.
Hello sir. I got same model and the grills are rusted. How to remove the grill?
No Idea. I guess they are stock on. Mask up, the fascia rub the gills with 240 paper and spray them.
What material is behind the grill and how is it attached?
I have no idea. Never had to remove the grille. The drivers are fixed at the back.
I wonder if the felt is to help soak up some of the ugly plastic cabinet resonance.
I wondered about that. It is very whispy so it is difficult to imagine that it could have an effect on the sound but you could be right. It would be interesting to know for sure.
my 315 turns on i get great low end but the high end just clicks even with no signal any ideas on a quick fix would be great thanks
Check capacitors C113 & C213. But could also be caused by a problem on the Mixer/input board.
@@razenby awsome thanks alot
@@razenby Mine has the same problem, i checked the caps and they are giving the ~10uF they should.
Kabel yg warna merah ,hitam pungsinya buat apa
Mereka menyalakan LED di belakang lencana speaker.
anyway to remove the front speaker grill ?
No, sorry, I never need to.
when i charge it. and switch is off. The lights are on. But when i flip the switch to turn on. It turns on real quick then turns off ??????
Before you suspect the electronics check the main switch isn't faulty.. They do fail and usually they come on for a second. If the switch is Ok then there is an electronic fault.
i need part numbers for the power supply part of the amp. Can anyone help?2 tiny transistors and the two big ones.
You will need to changethe 2 big transistors the larger 10 ohm resistors, the four transistors in the complementary gate drivers, the 49.9 Ohm 0805 resistors, the MX Half bridge driver chip and the TL494 PWM manager and the LNK302 offline switch buck controller. the B+ has gotten into the low voltage electronics. It is all in the videos complete with part numbers.
I own a jbl like that 315.
Useful speakers.