Wiring might be boring but it’s nice to have things explained while you’re doing it, I say thanks for showing this to us. It’s part of every build and needs more people to explain the details like you have.
Hello there! Yeah, if I were you, i would reconsider the electrical boxes being so close to that spring. A jolt at high speed could hit it even after testing it under load, its really just not worth having that possibility there - yes i understand we are talking about major redesign and probably going back a few steps, but it would probably be worth it. and i would also consider some other route for those wires. major wires are rarely seen beneath vehicle fairings or plates, especially on the sides.
They also slitly move left and right, especially when the bushing are dried and crack. Could have stuff packing on top and squishing the most crucial part of the assembly. Safety first, great job keep these video going!
Yeah, that is absolutely not going to work. You have to give the spring clear travel up to the rubber bump block and it appears from some angles that you are fully impeding that travel
the amount of meticulous detail that you take great care in is just A+. You're going to get a lot of people wanting conversions from you with this level of service...
Meticulous as always, but the wires that close above the leaf springs give me anxiety. I know it's not by your design, but I wouldn't leave it like that. I love that you're explaining things as you go.
I would look into moving the rear hv stuff… one piece of road debris or an extra messed up rail road track and that spring may sheer em off. It’s super worst case, but better safe than sorry
I'm no expert in anything but those leaf springs worry me. Tony Hunt (a great structural engineer from the UK) once told me: "if it doesn't look right, it probably isn't."
Wow so much got done this episode! Great work! If you can you should move the battery box a little bit. It looks like if you hit one deep enough pothole, those connectors will be bent or gone.
I don't know it all and I learn a lot from bouncing ideas around with others, as well as watching others in the car hobby. I'm not criticizing and I never mean my post to be that way. As a car guy and one who has done some odd car projects over a number of decades; I know it can be a learning process a lot of the time. I also understand that pictures and videos don't always provide the right angle - show the proper spacing. With that said, the amount of travel a suspension can go and the unknown of what situations could happen - do concern me with the high power connectors being so close to the leaf-springs. I recall you mentioning that you will be looking into seeing how much the rear suspension travels. I might be overly causes here. IF those connectors are above any part of the springs - as they seems to be in the video - I would serious look into redesigning that box with a bump-out on the front or back - out of the way of any moving components. Maybe even make the entire box slightly wider between the springs and if at all possible route a 90degree connector(s) and/or wire(s) inside the box and run it over to the new bump-out where the exterior connector(s) will be mounted. Keep up the great work. All the Best, Tony
Next time you do brake crimping don't use oil on the parts.It can cause issues with the rubber parts later. You are doing a great job with the tools you have.
I have the same brake flare tool, and it's a game changer when making brake lines. In the instructions it SPECIFICALLY states to use "oil". However I see the point about oil compatibility with rubber parts, so I'd suggest using brake fluid as the "oil" when flaring. Another tip when making your own lines is to use copper nickel brake lines instead of steel. It is easier to flare, much easier to route and bend, and doesn't rust out in a couple years.
Un fuerte saludo desde Costa Rica; su trabajo es impresionante, demuestra la pasión que tiene por lo que hace!... 😊 Ojalá y esos conectores de enfriamiento de la batería se pudieran ubicar en otro lado menos peligroso; siento que aun con el nuevo rediseño quedan muy cerca de las hojas de ballesta de la suspensión, sin duda ahorita le va encontrar solución a este dilema!... 😉
I feel like the coolant and HV lines are too close to the leaf spring - if you are cornering left then the spring will compress and will move inward slightly - it's not a straight up and down movement. Apart from that, it's good!
You made some excellent progress in this video, and the editing was very tight. I do have one concern though: I don't see how the leaf spring clearance will be enough. The back of that car was never designed for so much battery weight. In corners, it's going to flex and twist in addition to the normal spring compression, and I'd bet it'll cause interference with the cooling and power connections. I bet you could push with just your body weight and cause interference, to say nothing of the issues that would be caused by driving this on a windy road.
Awesome video as always! Pretty cool adventure. I think you could use an newer wire stripper that strips to length, it would save you so much time and hassle. Haisstronica make a pretty nice one. Keep up the great work!!!
A couple things I was wondering about: Looks loke you routed HV cables between the axle tube and the bump stop. Not a good idea, cables will get smashed if the car hits a large bump. Also, the cables being used don't have an outer conductor? The ones I see used on the EV's I work on have an outer weave (like coaxial cable) that shields against EMI. Seems odd to not have that. I would also try to ensure you have enough clearance at the leaf spring, from fully compressed to fully extended. You have a lot of important stuff running right near it. Entertaining as always, thanks for sharing!
At 26:20 (I think) and 27:40-ish it looked like there is an HV cable running under a bump stop? Ive been watching your vids for a while and love your work, and admissions when you mess up (especially as I always mess us on my projects, albeit with a LOT more cursing lol). I feel like its just the camera angle because the work I've seen you do has been phenomenal but just want to be sure... Thanks for your inspiring, entertaining, and informative content and best of luck on your conversion enterprise venture!
Man, all those grommets and sheathes and endcaps on every crimp. I can barely remember to put heatshrink on my cables before soldering them together or terminating them, I can't imagine the aggravation of forgetting one of these and having to cut and do it all over again.
Regarding the plates for the battery box. Consider using white paint marker or correct fluid to write numbers on both plates and numbers. So that anyone comes after has an easier time?
one other tip... we've had equipment fail in space and ultimately the cause was contamination by a tiny conductive filament from the assembly process. SO... when you are cutting those super tiny copper filaments and they are dropping and shooting all over the place, do it far away from any electrical connectors or equipment! if even one of them happens to fall in a backshell or something where it can vibrate loose later or contaminate some isolation, it can be super destructive. All from a tiny tiny piece of wire. Best to just keep all those tiny wires away from your assembly and parts.
Noticed the electrical connectors on the back battery box are above the leaf springs, however, the video was taken of them when the weight was *off* the wheels. When car is lowered back down, will the leaf springs then be in the way? What about when the car encounters a speed bump?
It seems like the high voltage lines going to the the battery box are routed under the bump stop. I'm really interested to see what you do to try to make sure there is clearance along the entire suspension travel
I'm sure I'm wrong here, but in the video, it looks like those connection stick over the top of the leaf spring, so that when the car is on the ground or hits a bump, the spring will shear them off. I'm guessing it's just the camera angle, but I wanted to point it out, just in case.
On old brake lines you're better off replacing if it's possible. You just don't know how good they are without pressure testing them. Simplest way for a DIY'er to know for sure is to replace. A line from an old commercial. "A car that won't start is not a problem, a car that won't stop is a BIG problem."
I dont like that battery box connector location, Also leaf springs with drum brakes for a ev. At the minimum relocate HV connection next to empty spot between wheel and differential. Put some insulation material for those HV junction covers under the car. Looks good otherwise.
Hi! Coming along nicely! You have me seriously considering electrifying my Countach replica as I’m having difficulties with both engine and transaxle 😢 I’ll look for contact info
Pro Tip: Use soldered connections whenever possible. For instance, consider the connector at 18:14. Heat up the metal part with a micro torch and feed solder into it until it doesn't draw anymore. You're using professional-quality crimpers, so your current method is fine. However, when you're working on your own vehicle and have the time, consider using techniques that are more time-consuming but yield better results. By "better results," I mean cooler running. When a wire is carrying near-maximum current, it tends to get hot right at the crimp point. You can verify this using a heat camera; the difference is significant. If you want to go nuts with it you can crimp it while the solder is still liquid, very dangerous as melted solder will squirt all over, but that crimped connection will be solid as can possibly be done as far as a low resistance connection goes. I discovered this long ago while using two heavy-gauge extension cords joined with crimped connectors to power a large window air conditioner. I moved the wire while it was running, and the connected section was very warm. I then soldered the wires at that point, and when I checked for heat, it was cold to the touch. All crimped connections suffer from heat when pulling a full load. This is because, at the microscopic scale, the connection between the two sections is just touching. However, when soldered, it behaves as if there are no microscopic gaps that the electrons have to jump over. A soldered connection is more like a continuous connection without any joins or gaps. I suspect that crimped connections in a computerized components like EV controllers can sometimes cause intermittent and hard to troubleshoot errors. Having said that nothing is perfect and rockets and fighter jets probably use crimped connections so take what I said in context with a grain of salt.
One of the reasons that the automotive industry doesn't use soldered terminals is because when you solder a wire, solder wicks back into the wire under the insulation. The wire is now rigid and not flexible back that distance. With vibration and flexing in an automotive environment, the individual strands will start to break at that location and eventually you will start with a hot spot just behind the terminal. If the wire has low current draw, it may not get hot but you will eventually have a broken wire inside the insulation and an intermittent connection. If you can't get a proper crimp connection, then solder is the next best thing, but try to get a good crimp first.
The brake connector looks like an AMP superseal connector. However it looks like you were using an Uninsulated crimper and unisulated terminals. thats why the terminals were deforming and the yellow seals got messed up. the amp superseal 1.5 terminals from TE are designed to nicely hold the boot without squishing it. ua-cam.com/video/uU6A74ewGFk/v-deo.html
@@pablopicaro7649 I've built consumer products. He has worked in corporate. I'm sure he'd not only get a job but be successful. His experience speaks volumes. He can figure out how to design building cars at scale within budget. He doesn't need to know everything to be successful. He has shown he has growth mindset.
Visit Drone Quote for your next roofing or solar project: www.dronequote.net/a/electricsupercar
Wiring might be boring but it’s nice to have things explained while you’re doing it, I say thanks for showing this to us. It’s part of every build and needs more people to explain the details like you have.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I will never be building my own EV, but watching this stuff is just fascinating.
Thanks for watching!
Ditto
Hello there!
Yeah, if I were you, i would reconsider the electrical boxes being so close to that spring. A jolt at high speed could hit it even after testing it under load, its really just not worth having that possibility there - yes i understand we are talking about major redesign and probably going back a few steps, but it would probably be worth it. and i would also consider some other route for those wires. major wires are rarely seen beneath vehicle fairings or plates, especially on the sides.
To be clear. Good job so far!, i also enjoy watching the videos, keep up the good work.
Noted
Agreed! Also isn't that the bump stop just above the wires?
Leaf springs twist and move laterally quite a bit so definitely need more space.
They also slitly move left and right, especially when the bushing are dried and crack. Could have stuff packing on top and squishing the most crucial part of the assembly. Safety first, great job keep these video going!
Yeah, that is absolutely not going to work. You have to give the spring clear travel up to the rubber bump block and it appears from some angles that you are fully impeding that travel
Great Video Jeremy ! Hope you turn this into a great business where people want to convert all their cars to electric through you !
I hope so too!
the amount of meticulous detail that you take great care in is just A+. You're going to get a lot of people wanting conversions from you with this level of service...
I hope so...otherwise it will be a short lived business
OMG, who is this guy? The guy I watch on Sunday mornings doesn't have any tools.
Great job on this project. I'm really enjoying your episodes.
Thanks 👍
Meticulous as always, but the wires that close above the leaf springs give me anxiety. I know it's not by your design, but I wouldn't leave it like that.
I love that you're explaining things as you go.
Appreciate your attention to detail and determination to keep going. Thanks for showing us your progress!
Thanks for watching!
Super clear! Let's make vids like this, not like the last one. Naming tools rocks!
You got it!
New editor is doing great work! Really appreciate the tightness and graphics. Hopefully it gives you more time to work on the cars.
That is the plan!
I would look into moving the rear hv stuff… one piece of road debris or an extra messed up rail road track and that spring may sheer em off.
It’s super worst case, but better safe than sorry
Noted
I'm no expert in anything but those leaf springs worry me. Tony Hunt (a great structural engineer from the UK) once told me: "if it doesn't look right, it probably isn't."
Noted
Wow so much got done this episode! Great work! If you can you should move the battery box a little bit. It looks like if you hit one deep enough pothole, those connectors will be bent or gone.
Agreed!
As the springs move up and down it may hit your Connector. You should check that out.
Redesign is underway
This is so exciting, you’re getting really close to turning it on.
Hopefully soon!
I don't know it all and I learn a lot from bouncing ideas around with others, as well as watching others in the car hobby. I'm not criticizing and I never mean my post to be that way. As a car guy and one who has done some odd car projects over a number of decades; I know it can be a learning process a lot of the time. I also understand that pictures and videos don't always provide the right angle - show the proper spacing. With that said, the amount of travel a suspension can go and the unknown of what situations could happen - do concern me with the high power connectors being so close to the leaf-springs. I recall you mentioning that you will be looking into seeing how much the rear suspension travels. I might be overly causes here. IF those connectors are above any part of the springs - as they seems to be in the video - I would serious look into redesigning that box with a bump-out on the front or back - out of the way of any moving components. Maybe even make the entire box slightly wider between the springs and if at all possible route a 90degree connector(s) and/or wire(s) inside the box and run it over to the new bump-out where the exterior connector(s) will be mounted. Keep up the great work. All the Best, Tony
Thanks Tony! Redesign is already underway
Editing is much better, not that it was bad before just a noticeable improvement with this video. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, will do!
I am anxiously waiting for this masterpiece to hit the road ! And Damn , these latest edits look dope !!!! Keep them comin !
Thanks Friend!
Can’t wait to see this on the road.
You and me both
Good progress. Lots of high power cables and coolant lines.
Thanks 👍
Next time you do brake crimping don't use oil on the parts.It can cause issues with the rubber parts later. You are doing a great job with the tools you have.
Thanks for the tip
I have the same brake flare tool, and it's a game changer when making brake lines. In the instructions it SPECIFICALLY states to use "oil". However I see the point about oil compatibility with rubber parts, so I'd suggest using brake fluid as the "oil" when flaring. Another tip when making your own lines is to use copper nickel brake lines instead of steel. It is easier to flare, much easier to route and bend, and doesn't rust out in a couple years.
So many cables, so so many. You really need to keep your focus.
It's coming along great.
Thanks Friend!
This is a work of art 👏
Thanks Friend!
Un fuerte saludo desde Costa Rica; su trabajo es impresionante, demuestra la pasión que tiene por lo que hace!... 😊
Ojalá y esos conectores de enfriamiento de la batería se pudieran ubicar en otro lado menos peligroso; siento que aun con el nuevo rediseño quedan muy cerca de las hojas de ballesta de la suspensión, sin duda ahorita le va encontrar solución a este dilema!... 😉
Thanks for the comment!
The one man army strikes AGAIN! Great job!❤❤🫡👍👍
Thanks Friend!
The new editing style looks really cool and better production
Thanks Friend!
Great progress! Keep up the awesome work! 🚀
Thank you! Will do!
I like the new transitions and video style.
Thanks Friend!
I feel like the coolant and HV lines are too close to the leaf spring - if you are cornering left then the spring will compress and will move inward slightly - it's not a straight up and down movement. Apart from that, it's good!
Redesign is underway
Really cool to watch, and great video!! Thanks! 😁
Michael, you are the man! Thanks for the support!
You made some excellent progress in this video, and the editing was very tight. I do have one concern though: I don't see how the leaf spring clearance will be enough. The back of that car was never designed for so much battery weight. In corners, it's going to flex and twist in addition to the normal spring compression, and I'd bet it'll cause interference with the cooling and power connections. I bet you could push with just your body weight and cause interference, to say nothing of the issues that would be caused by driving this on a windy road.
Definitely will do some testing
good stuff for sure.
Thanks 👍
Good work! Greetings from Spain.
Hey, thanks!
Well done. Sir🎉 I always learn from U❤
Glad to hear that
I just read the T-shirt, that's great.
For sale on my store. Check the video description
@@ElectricSuperCar I don't see that shirt on here? Can you link me.
teespring.com/stores/electric-supercar-store-2
Can you set the store up so the artwork is on the back of the shirts with the logo if there is one on the front left pocket area.
Thanks
Awesome video as always! Pretty cool adventure. I think you could use an newer wire stripper that strips to length, it would save you so much time and hassle. Haisstronica make a pretty nice one. Keep up the great work!!!
Nice! I will check it out
Good work. I like wiring, but damn!🤣
I know... right!?!
Great work! You will need to move the cables. Look the suspension bushing stop there. Everything is between is supposed to be free.
Agreed!
A couple things I was wondering about: Looks loke you routed HV cables between the axle tube and the bump stop. Not a good idea, cables will get smashed if the car hits a large bump. Also, the cables being used don't have an outer conductor? The ones I see used on the EV's I work on have an outer weave (like coaxial cable) that shields against EMI. Seems odd to not have that. I would also try to ensure you have enough clearance at the leaf spring, from fully compressed to fully extended. You have a lot of important stuff running right near it. Entertaining as always, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the comment
Great progress! I had no idea how much wiring went into one of these builds. That stuff can't be cheap. How soon before we'll be seeing a road test?
2 weeks 🤞
Nice job. I'm going to have to do this soon myself, so wish me luck! 😬
You can do it!
At 26:20 (I think) and 27:40-ish it looked like there is an HV cable running under a bump stop? Ive been watching your vids for a while and love your work, and admissions when you mess up (especially as I always mess us on my projects, albeit with a LOT more cursing lol). I feel like its just the camera angle because the work I've seen you do has been phenomenal but just want to be sure...
Thanks for your inspiring, entertaining, and informative content and best of luck on your conversion enterprise venture!
Thanks for pointing it out! Cable is not in its final position but better to have someone mention then find out the hard way.
Man, all those grommets and sheathes and endcaps on every crimp. I can barely remember to put heatshrink on my cables before soldering them together or terminating them, I can't imagine the aggravation of forgetting one of these and having to cut and do it all over again.
I know right!?!
arent the leafspring going to get higher when the car hits a bump?
Yep
Regarding the plates for the battery box. Consider using white paint marker or correct fluid to write numbers on both plates and numbers. So that anyone comes after has an easier time?
Thanks for the suggestion
Seeing this I begin to understand why the tesla 54v ethernet loop has been praised so much.
You are placing the CB for the Onboardcharger below it? You have to disassemble the batterybox to reach it?
No
Watch out for the wires etc near the rubber bump stop, if you can get the wires to the inside of the rubber block you should be fine.
one other tip... we've had equipment fail in space and ultimately the cause was contamination by a tiny conductive filament from the assembly process. SO... when you are cutting those super tiny copper filaments and they are dropping and shooting all over the place, do it far away from any electrical connectors or equipment! if even one of them happens to fall in a backshell or something where it can vibrate loose later or contaminate some isolation, it can be super destructive. All from a tiny tiny piece of wire. Best to just keep all those tiny wires away from your assembly and parts.
Thanks for the comment!
Why didn't the owner upgrade brakes and suspension if they are upgrading power?
Noticed the electrical connectors on the back battery box are above the leaf springs, however, the video was taken of them when the weight was *off* the wheels. When car is lowered back down, will the leaf springs then be in the way? What about when the car encounters a speed bump?
Definitely going to do some testing
It seems like the high voltage lines going to the the battery box are routed under the bump stop. I'm really interested to see what you do to try to make sure there is clearance along the entire suspension travel
Redesign underway
Couldn't you flip the rear battery box upside down?
Will everything clear the rear leaf springs when they are all the way up and all the way down?
We will check and maybe redesign
I'm sure I'm wrong here, but in the video, it looks like those connection stick over the top of the leaf spring, so that when the car is on the ground or hits a bump, the spring will shear them off. I'm guessing it's just the camera angle, but I wanted to point it out, just in case.
We will definitely do some testing
On old brake lines you're better off replacing if it's possible. You just don't know how good they are without pressure testing them. Simplest way for a DIY'er to know for sure is to replace. A line from an old commercial. "A car that won't start is not a problem, a car that won't stop is a BIG problem."
⚡ 🏎 👌👍 🏎 ⚡
✌️
I really wish Ev conversion was as easy as going to summit and repowering a SBC
i wish i was smart as you ..... i would make my own car ..... for real
Go for it!
I dont like that battery box connector location, Also leaf springs with drum brakes for a ev. At the minimum relocate HV connection next to empty spot between wheel and differential. Put some insulation material for those HV junction covers under the car. Looks good otherwise.
What did you print that cover out of? PLA might melt from the heat
Shouldn't see much heat. This is a hi-temp filament, so I hope it is ok
Hi! Coming along nicely! You have me seriously considering electrifying my Countach replica as I’m having difficulties with both engine and transaxle 😢 I’ll look for contact info
Electricsupercar@gmail.com
Do you have a link for the HV Connectors? Are they Amphenol? Thx
Yes these one were Amphenol
Algo
✌️
Wouldn't the leaf springs with their travel just rip off the connectors when you drive over a bump?
I will have to do thorough testing
@@ElectricSuperCar looking forward to the testing and the results. :)
Do you have the file for your cover available anywhere? I have the same motor controller and would love to do the same treatment
Yep. Send me an email Electricsupercar@gmail.com
👋👍
✌️
Maybe you should use gray wire tubes instead of orange, beacuse they are also fire resistant, which orange are not
I see that You are not using HV cable shirm, why ?
This is what came with the kit
Time to get a commercial work shop?
That would be awesome! UA-cam would have to be doing a lot better than it currently is.
Pro Tip: Use soldered connections whenever possible. For instance, consider the connector at 18:14. Heat up the metal part with a micro torch and feed solder into it until it doesn't draw anymore.
You're using professional-quality crimpers, so your current method is fine. However, when you're working on your own vehicle and have the time, consider using techniques that are more time-consuming but yield better results. By "better results," I mean cooler running. When a wire is carrying near-maximum current, it tends to get hot right at the crimp point. You can verify this using a heat camera; the difference is significant.
If you want to go nuts with it you can crimp it while the solder is still liquid, very dangerous as melted solder will squirt all over, but that crimped connection will be solid as can possibly be done as far as a low resistance connection goes.
I discovered this long ago while using two heavy-gauge extension cords joined with crimped connectors to power a large window air conditioner. I moved the wire while it was running, and the connected section was very warm. I then soldered the wires at that point, and when I checked for heat, it was cold to the touch.
All crimped connections suffer from heat when pulling a full load. This is because, at the microscopic scale, the connection between the two sections is just touching. However, when soldered, it behaves as if there are no microscopic gaps that the electrons have to jump over. A soldered connection is more like a continuous connection without any joins or gaps.
I suspect that crimped connections in a computerized components like EV controllers can sometimes cause intermittent and hard to troubleshoot errors. Having said that nothing is perfect and rockets and fighter jets probably use crimped connections so take what I said in context with a grain of salt.
Thanks for the comment!
One of the reasons that the automotive industry doesn't use soldered terminals is because when you solder a wire, solder wicks back into the wire under the insulation. The wire is now rigid and not flexible back that distance. With vibration and flexing in an automotive environment, the individual strands will start to break at that location and eventually you will start with a hot spot just behind the terminal. If the wire has low current draw, it may not get hot but you will eventually have a broken wire inside the insulation and an intermittent connection. If you can't get a proper crimp connection, then solder is the next best thing, but try to get a good crimp first.
The brake connector looks like an AMP superseal connector. However it looks like you were using an Uninsulated crimper and unisulated terminals. thats why the terminals were deforming and the yellow seals got messed up. the amp superseal 1.5 terminals from TE are designed to nicely hold the boot without squishing it. ua-cam.com/video/uU6A74ewGFk/v-deo.html
surprised, you havent gotten a job with major car makers yet.
That would be awesome!
@@ElectricSuperCar you really should send your resume and link to your yt if you haven't done so. Probably can do some consulting gigs with them too.
OEM is dramatically different than what this guy is doing
@@pablopicaro7649 I've built consumer products. He has worked in corporate. I'm sure he'd not only get a job but be successful. His experience speaks volumes. He can figure out how to design building cars at scale within budget. He doesn't need to know everything to be successful. He has shown he has growth mindset.
I wouldn't try this at home. Seeing how complicated everything is. The tied spaces. Man this is almost impossible...
Definitely challenging
YOU HIRED AN EDITOR!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Yay!
This is way to complicated 😮
take out the springs and replace them with real suspention