Leave the wire chucked in the drill and just move the torch along the wire. This should help keep the wire from bending while heat treating. I haven't tried it, but it should work.
I've started to use carbon rods in place of wire inside Sullivan-style plastic tubing. Lighter and stiffer, and short wire Z-bends at the ends can be glued with CA inside a heatshring tube. This final gluing can be done as the last step, to get exactly the right position. CF rods are sufficient stiff to not need long wire rods at the ends, but sufficiently bendable to go up T-tail fins, for example.
You can get similar wire but stainless at harbor freight. I like this method better than twisting the wire which does straighten the wire but I think it weakens it also. I appreciate you
I'm an older modeller and precision engineer - and sir - this is one of the rest demonstrations I've seen. Never say it's too late to learn something new.
Is there really enough carbon in that steel to harden it? Wouldn't it need to be cherry red across the entire rod if there was a high enough carbon content?
Actually the carbon content has everything to do with hardening steel. Without a high enough carbon content it won't harden at all. Without tempering the wire should be glass hard and resist a file if it was actually hardened. I'm not saying your wrong I'm just surprised the wire has a high enough carbon content and that you were able to get such a skinny piece up to a high enough and even temperature to form metastable martensite?
On a safety note, galvanized coatings release zinc oxide fumes, inhaling these fumes can lead to metal fume fever. Probably not fatal but very unpleasant all the same.
The block and drill method will work but you have to spin the drill very slow or the wire will flap around. You could also try putting one end of the wire in a vise and the other end in a visegrips and twisting the wire.
Now I know what am gonna be doing when I retire. Just sayin, those control rods are dirt cheap. But thanks anyway, do like the wood trick for those bent rods. +1
I dont think that amount of heat would do squat! Plus its all cooled off by the time you got it in the water! I was just in my shop doing some 9 guage and tried several different heats and dipping it in oil verses water and what did the trick was getting the whole wire glowing red like almost melting and throw it in the water. Thats when I got the wire hard. You can't just get it orange and let it cool b4 you quench it or itll just be softer actually.
I received a few hate emails from people stating the hazards of heating galvanized metal and not warning people who view my video. Maybe that's why my windows are open in my shop which they can't see in the video.
@@MrDabrudda I think he might be laughing about the actual "hardening" of the wire. I don't think that wire can really be hardened. It's mild steel. However, if it can be hardened, you would have to get the whole wire orange hot and quench it while it's still orange. Then it would have to be tempered. I think it's the act of straightening the wire that leaves it a bit work hardened. ...like wrought iron. I think heating it up after its wrought out straight might actually make it softer, not harder. ...anyway, great technique on straightening the wire. Thanks for posting Side note: if it wasn't for California, there would be no UA-cam to troll from
Use jumper cables and a 12 volt car battery to watch the whole length of the wire heat up instantly to red hot. Hold it over a bowl of water and release the wire from the clips at the same time. MUCH faster and uniformly.
The hardening method did not work it just made my galvanized wire soft... I quenched it in ice water. I couldn't keep it red throughout the wire maybe that was the problem, but it didn't work for me
Mitchell Spanheimer If you let metal cool slowly it is called annealing which will soften the metal. Quenching the metal when it is red hot or close to red hot will harden iron and steel.
Hmm .. sorry for that .. but no need to be smart .. 99.999 percent of the food u r eating from the markets have poison and 99.999 percent of the water and air u r drinking and breathing have poison .. so plz stop
@@phoenixcreations94 Do you know what you're talking about. Goat was simply talking about the galvanized metal releasing the oxide. Not general pollution.
Very nice! Would this work on a 2.5mm wire for the landing gear? Would it prevent the bending or it is still bendable and I shouldn't try? Also alternative ways for heating? I don't have this tool...
Also works great for creating antenna elements for wifi / 4g. Never liked the drill method where wire is twisted, this way is SO MUCH better! Thank you...
I am sure you are long gone but you can simply stretch the wire if you want to do a lot at once. pulling straight between 2 cars works well. if it snaps then you pulled a bit to hard, go back in time and try again.
Thanks for your help to show us this video clip of how can make the spring and in Mumbai from where can buy this type of16 Gauge this type of the wires in a different type of Gauge
Can the wire still be cut after heat treating? Looking to make pins for linking pieces of an RC tank track, they will be roughly 5/8 inch long, not trying to do this process for all 50 pieces, not to mention the nightmare of working with pieces that small
The hardening process you recommend is applied to medium/high carbon steels. As far as I know, the carbon content in such steel wires is small, so I don't think that this would make a big difference. It's worth a try though
Yea I think you're right, I've tried this on regular wire not galvanized and it doesn't seem to do much, maybe slightly springier but not actually harder or less prone to bending, will just deflect more without permanently bending.
It's better to pull the wire without winding it, you can also put it instead in the drill chuck on a thick rod piece withe a loop and pull it without compromiseing the strength to much, or put somewhere a hook in the ceiling or something strong and put on the other end a weight and lett it hang for a little while 😊
Yeah I usually pull the wire a couple of times angled down over a wood work bench, works good on shorter lengths as a 2-3 foot piece will still have a little curve in it.
Nice one....Hope it works with 22 gauge Full Hard Steel wire that I will use for model bridge building. Thanks. Phil Update: I tried it with the 22 gauge Full Hard wire and unfortunately it does not work. I know this method you used for the thicker 16 gauge works very well according to many videos I watched however. If you have any ideas how I can get the bend out of the thinner 22 gauge I'd appreciate your input. Thanks.
@@jamescole3152 Yes for sure. That's why I said I was hoping and did update my original comment....This was over a year ago and solved the issue another way, but I appreciate your comment...Be well...
I used this technique on .055 in spring steel music wire. It works great! My controls rods were about 30 in. I imagine the shorter the pushrods the easier it is. The 30 in pushrod was a two person job.
dohrehmee You can harden copper. People anneal copper used in jewelry but I'm not sure if the copper would be hard enough for control rod. One hard landing and the copper might bend.
Leave the wire chucked in the drill and just move the torch along the wire. This should help keep the wire from bending while heat treating. I haven't tried it, but it should work.
I've started to use carbon rods in place of wire inside Sullivan-style plastic tubing. Lighter and stiffer, and short wire Z-bends at the ends can be glued with CA inside a heatshring tube. This final gluing can be done as the last step, to get exactly the right position. CF rods are sufficient stiff to not need long wire rods at the ends, but sufficiently bendable to go up T-tail fins, for example.
How thick of rods? I'd love to see a video of your technique!
Hmm! I was wondering if that wire would bend if you made a control rod, but you solved that issue. Well done!
You only really need to harden the rod on very long runs between the servo and horn. A few inches will not bend very much.
You can get similar wire but stainless at harbor freight. I like this method better than twisting the wire which does straighten the wire but I think it weakens it also. I appreciate you
i'll try this at home, thanks for sharing this usefull tips :)
Super slick MrDabrudda.
I'm an older modeller and precision engineer - and sir - this is one of the rest demonstrations I've seen. Never say it's too late to learn something new.
Would you teach me aeromodelling sir
Exactly that where my thoughts...👍
wow, very nice idea, thanks
beautiful
Have you thought about using old bicycle spokes ? They are about the same thickness and are rigid and stainless steel :)
Spokes are thicker than the gauge of wire I used.
MrDabrudda OK
If you quench this in oil ( like when forging knives ) will it harden it as well or even better or not at all?
how do i properly test the wire hardness? i cant find the solution in google to test
Is there really enough carbon in that steel to harden it? Wouldn't it need to be cherry red across the entire rod if there was a high enough carbon content?
Actually the carbon content has everything to do with hardening steel. Without a high enough carbon content it won't harden at all. Without tempering the wire should be glass hard and resist a file if it was actually hardened. I'm not saying your wrong I'm just surprised the wire has a high enough carbon content and that you were able to get such a skinny piece up to a high enough and even temperature to form metastable martensite?
On a safety note, galvanized coatings release zinc oxide fumes, inhaling these fumes can lead to metal fume fever. Probably not fatal but very unpleasant all the same.
Someone's deleted their comment. no clue what happened here.
what gas does the torch use. and where do i get one. is it expensive?
Either propane or MAPP gas will work
@@MrDabrudda how about butane? can it work with it?
I bought a plane, and forgot that you DONT bend the rods, they use a special nut, will this work on a fully assembled plane?
It should work to make custom throw rods.
For undercarriage legs and other stuff The wire edges of a bed mattress is a great source of spring wire
what about straightening longer wire, like 2' long?
The block and drill method will work but you have to spin the drill very slow or the wire will flap around. You could also try putting one end of the wire in a vise and the other end in a visegrips and twisting the wire.
Woow.....
Well I'll be damned! Figures, I just laced an order for music wire too!...uhh
Now I know what am gonna be doing when I retire. Just sayin, those control rods are dirt cheap.
But thanks anyway, do like the wood trick for those bent rods.
+1
I'll be G******ed!
The best trick I have seen recently. Thank you
I dont think that amount of heat would do squat! Plus its all cooled off by the time you got it in the water! I was just in my shop doing some 9 guage and tried several different heats and dipping it in oil verses water and what did the trick was getting the whole wire glowing red like almost melting and throw it in the water. Thats when I got the wire hard. You can't just get it orange and let it cool b4 you quench it or itll just be softer actually.
This is my fav instructional video on youtube! Well done very useful, but only in California. I laughed for 20 mins after that
I received a few hate emails from people stating the hazards of heating galvanized metal and not warning people who view my video. Maybe that's why my windows are open in my shop which they can't see in the video.
@@MrDabrudda I think he might be laughing about the actual "hardening" of the wire. I don't think that wire can really be hardened. It's mild steel. However, if it can be hardened, you would have to get the whole wire orange hot and quench it while it's still orange. Then it would have to be tempered. I think it's the act of straightening the wire that leaves it a bit work hardened. ...like wrought iron. I think heating it up after its wrought out straight might actually make it softer, not harder. ...anyway, great technique on straightening the wire. Thanks for posting
Side note: if it wasn't for California, there would be no UA-cam to troll from
That is absolutely genius!
This is the best thing since sliced fucking bread. I have thick gauge piano wire that's been refusing to straighten out for me till I found this.
:-O Ermegerd! LOL Seriously, that was cool.
Will that work on heavier gauge wire? I want to straighten 9ga farm and fence wire. After I cut it off the coil.
Excellent Thanks for sharing. :-) Tim.
Use jumper cables and a 12 volt car battery to watch the whole length of the wire heat up instantly to red hot. Hold it over a bowl of water and release the wire from the clips at the same time. MUCH faster and uniformly.
That sounds simultaneously thrilling and scary, so I'm going to try it! Thanks
good way to ruin a battery. I just use my houses 220v outlet.
Just go to Tower Hobbies and by the right steel... sounds like a good way to get yourself hurt either way.
Jumper cables, batteries and water? I'm gonna die lol
hey....nice trick... i should try this too... thankz
I want to buy 500kg this galvanized wire in Texas, who s dealer?
The hardening method did not work it just made my galvanized wire soft... I quenched it in ice water. I couldn't keep it red throughout the wire maybe that was the problem, but it didn't work for me
Mitchell Spanheimer If you let metal cool slowly it is called annealing which will soften the metal. Quenching the metal when it is red hot or close to red hot will harden iron and steel.
Huh is it teally that simple I have been trying all sorts and then this just simplicity itself.
I need 200 foot of this wire
As a safety note do this in a well ventilated place as zinc oxide is released
Goat wdym?
Hmm .. sorry for that .. but no need to be smart .. 99.999 percent of the food u r eating from the markets have poison and 99.999 percent of the water and air u r drinking and breathing have poison .. so plz stop
@@phoenixcreations94 Do you know what you're talking about. Goat was simply talking about the galvanized metal releasing the oxide. Not general pollution.
unbelievable.... if i watched this video earlier, i would have save a lot of time. best trick everrrrr!!!! thankz bro...
Nice tip! I have some rolls of music wire that I am constantly having to straighten. Hopefully this will work on those too.
Bro bro bro, You are amazing. I have been searching for days how to do this. Thank you.
Glad I could help
Thank you so much! I'd been trying to use a bench vise and it kept slipping. This works like a charm!
Excellent Trick This is one of the best tutorials I've Seen. Thanks!
What is the purpose of using galvanized wire?
You don't have to user galvanized wire. It's the only type of wire at the hardware store.
Very nice! Would this work on a 2.5mm wire for the landing gear? Would it prevent the bending or it is still bendable and I shouldn't try? Also alternative ways for heating? I don't have this tool...
very useful tip. I've been having trouble finding push rods that don't have fancy bits and tips on it.
What kind of sorcery is this??!
I have copper wire tho can you heat up copper wire to strengthen it
Copper won't harden like steel.
how about you get a plywood, place the wire into a flat surface then roll it with plywood BOOOOM STRAIT WIRE IN JUST 5 seconds!
Also works great for creating antenna elements for wifi / 4g. Never liked the drill method where wire is twisted, this way is SO MUCH better! Thank you...
I am sure you are long gone but you can simply stretch the wire if you want to do a lot at once. pulling straight between 2 cars works well. if it snaps then you pulled a bit to hard, go back in time and try again.
Thanks for your help to show us this video clip of how can make the spring and in Mumbai from where can buy this type of16 Gauge this type of the wires in a different type of Gauge
There are mush faster, better ways to do this that will straighten and harden in one simple operation.
Be careful with your eyes.
Thank you! I make wire trees and have arthritis in both my thumbs. It’s very hard to get my wires straight enough.
Chuck approved!
thank you very much for cheap alternative help ! Appreciate it!
What is the name of that machine
Will this work for harder music wire (spring steel)?
your a genie I meant genius...nice little procedure..many people will find that useful. mike
This is GOLDEN! thanks man!
superb I have learnt on how to straighten the coiled wire from your video. Thanks a lot.
Can the wire still be cut after heat treating? Looking to make pins for linking pieces of an RC tank track, they will be roughly 5/8 inch long, not trying to do this process for all 50 pieces, not to mention the nightmare of working with pieces that small
You can cut the wire or use a grinder if the cutters leave a mangled edge.
is that mild steel or high carbon steel?
Don't know what type of steel it is.
I think you just gave me everything I needed. Even heating after for form
as jewlers we just simply put the end into a vise pulled the wire and as straight as an arrow.
Are you sure there are not any hazardous zink fumes etc? From the galvanized layer
Yeah if you're going to heat it, you should definitely be using UNgalvanized wire.
Can you do a video explaining the differences of each gauge so that one can know them by just looking at them? 14G, 16G and 18G?
Lower the number the thicker the wire diameter
you can temper the lower guage wire with a blow torch and drop it in water and it will be very strong
Great tip. Thanks for this.
thanks for the video. please can you specify the brand and model of the drill?, when i try mine and the wire comes loose from the drill
That drill was a Black & Decker drill.
Great idea! I think you can thread the ends before the heat treatment for clevis connections too.
well....iknow a much easyer way to straight up whole meters of wire
Very helpful for my fishing lure projects, thanks!
omg u're my hero
Awesome. Thanks for sharing it. Gonna have to buy a drill I guess.
ook is the brand
The hardening process you recommend is applied to medium/high carbon steels. As far as I know, the carbon content in such steel wires is small, so I don't think that this would make a big difference. It's worth a try though
Yea I think you're right, I've tried this on regular wire not galvanized and it doesn't seem to do much, maybe slightly springier but not actually harder or less prone to bending, will just deflect more without permanently bending.
UA-cam’s algorithm is knowing me well, I was wondering where I can buy thick steel rods for cheap, still an interesting video.
I like it
That pretty clever. Thank you for sharing.
Genius!
It's better to pull the wire without winding it, you can also put it instead in the drill chuck on a thick rod piece withe a loop and pull it without compromiseing the strength to much, or put somewhere a hook in the ceiling or something strong and put on the other end a weight and lett it hang for a little while 😊
Yeah I usually pull the wire a couple of times angled down over a wood work bench, works good on shorter lengths as a 2-3 foot piece will still have a little curve in it.
Genius
Nice one....Hope it works with 22 gauge Full Hard Steel wire that I will use for model bridge building. Thanks.
Phil
Update: I tried it with the 22 gauge Full Hard wire and unfortunately it does not work. I know this method you used for the thicker 16 gauge works very well according to many videos I watched however. If you have any ideas how I can get the bend out of the thinner 22 gauge I'd appreciate your input. Thanks.
Well you said yours was full hard. His method is for softer wire.
@@jamescole3152 Yes for sure. That's why I said I was hoping and did update my original comment....This was over a year ago and solved the issue another way, but I appreciate your comment...Be well...
just buy music wire to start with much more cost effective!
Completely awesome!
You win the world peace prize for this.
I used this technique on .055 in spring steel music wire. It works great! My controls rods were about 30 in. I imagine the shorter the pushrods the easier it is. The 30 in pushrod was a two person job.
Awesome I was wondering if this technique would work with music wire.
wow ,so easy, thanks for you vídeo.
rgds!
This works great for coiled music wire as well. Thank you!
Really chewer, god vidio.
Thank you!! it was very useful
Great idea, thank you
dumb question here... i have 18 gauge copper... can I heat it with a torch to harden it?
dohrehmee You can harden copper. People anneal copper used in jewelry but I'm not sure if the copper would be hard enough for control rod. One hard landing and the copper might bend.
I believe copper will go from barely shape-able to brittle.
How about letting the wire hang vertically and heat it that way?
I don't know the wire might curl up with heated
Amazing... thanks for share
This is awesome. Great idea!!
Excellent
would the re-heating process damage the galvanized coating?
Don't know. Not like the control rods are going to corrode.
@@MrDabrudda Putting the zinc (the galvanized part) in the flame creates hazardous fumes. If you're going to heat it, don't use galvanized wire.
You can also use guitar strings.
Great piece of knowledge, thank you for sharing!
Cool. Thanks
awesome.. thanks