Making table extensions for a 6 inch jointer
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- Опубліковано 1 гру 2015
- This was the process I came up with to add extensions to my 6 inch jointer using metal plates. It really helped to joint long boards that otherwise are difficult to do on a 6" jointer. I added them to a 1990s model Jet jointer that I picked up for $150 and refurbished.
Thank you for watching,
Aaron Weed
Thanks for illustrating the point of buying a jointer with a longer bed.
LOL.. After watching your video I ran out and bought a couple of roller stands.
this made me spend the extra money for a longer bed
I agree that is the best way to do it. But other options are available for those who don't want to spend the extra.
I agree with you Mark. If you consider the labor hours involved and the machinery required, it would actually be cheaper for most people to simply go out and buy a much better jointer. If you enjoy doing this kind of work, and have access to the machinery, then it might makes sense. If you truly consider the cost of your time, cost of a machine shop, material acquisition, most of us would be better off simply investing in a much better by jointer. I really enjoyed the video though. Each time I watch videos like this, I learn something. I truly appreciate the time and effort that you and others are willing to give up so that amateurs like me can improve.
Aaron Weed my testosterone went up by 500% by watching your video 💪😁
You're VERY BRAVE to trust the double-sided tape like that, I know they're strong but I never would have, anyway a great job, take care bro.
you don't hog off 30 thou doing this or you made a frisby.
I was thinking the same thing and i used to work in a machine shop, he's got some BIG STONES.
I was thinking blance grinder but the magnet on it would just take the warp out and by the time you ground both sides you still have a warped plate.
The electromagnet on the are that strong.
The other thing he could have done is chuck up a cutting tool for a mill and hold the part with a vice on the lathe then moved the part over the cuter like a mill up on its side.
Faceplate clamps are simple to make and safe - the tape made me shudder
yeah... tape is for the red green show....
@@chrisgrubisa3819 lol only 5 people will understand this reference. I love this
Yeah trusting adhesive on your rotary tools... Nope. Nope. Nope.
Hey Aaron, I admire your precision in everything you do. Paul Sellers said, "it's not what you make, it's how you make it," and your results show! Thanks for the video and for explaining your methods.
Thank you!
Having worked for 9 years in a welding Fab shop that also had a machine shop with extensive milling and large lathes I can really appreciate your attention to details. Wish my Delta was longer but I’ll live with what I have for now.
It was a pleasure watching you work. Thanks for the video!
Thank you.
That lathe is next level. Awesome job too 👍🏻
Meticulous process. Kudos for doing it and recording it too. Double the effort.
That's some fine machining Mr.
Aaron, superb videography and narration. I enjoyed watching your process/hearing your logic. Great project and video!
Thank you
Excellent construction, well done!
Thank you
Really nice addition and it was fascinating watching the process. I was dreaming up something similar and it was nice to watch how you approached each of the different challenges: length, flattening, attaching and level. It has provided enough information for me to be able to extend my own 30" workbench jointer. It will be a future project. Thanks!
You're welcome. I'm glad it could help.
Outstanding! Thank you for sharing your feat of engineering. :-)
I was racking my brain all morning in solving this same problem with my jointer. what a great solution. I'm gonna try it myself.
+Art Connolly Cool! Let me know how it goes.
excellent extension and I appreciate all of the time and precision that went into this! just fixed up my first old jointer, a Delta from the 40s, and it is very satisfying when the boards come together with no gap! subbed!
Thank you.
Wow this turned out great! Might try that too!
+Cosmas B Thank you. Let me know how it turns out if you try it.
If you had shown me the final product without any insight, I would have thought this was a factory feature you opted for when you bought the jointer... Very professional, great work!
Thank you.
Finaly someone i could agree with, wood works great in some applications but there are these type of situations where metal rules. Thanks for the tips, i've got a different make jointer but it's got the exact same chassis and i've had the same issues. I've also done my calculations and i agree with the additional 2" on either side. Thanks again.
You're welcome. Thank you.
This made me want to make 30" wood extentions with height adjustable, foldable legs that will be stored on the wall. I respect your craftmanship, your attention to details and your results. For me it's totally overkill for just a few inches... Thanks for your effort and sharing it with us all.. :)
You did a heck of a job on those extensions and achieved an excellent result. Bunch of work though!
Great video. I wish I had all your machinery to add length to my jointer.
Just watching you turn that lathe on made me lean back.
Brillant talented work.
enjoyed you video. it took me back some 43 years ago when I had machine shop classes.
thank you.
greetings from California , mid pandemic. June 2020 So far 118 thousands Americans have passed away. we need a better governance system. enough of 1$ one vote.
hello. I made a safety guide after watching your video. Thank you for being an inspiration to me.
You're welcome. Thank you for the comment.
Impressive !
Thanks for sharing.
excellent job!
Very nicely done.
Respect dude
Loved this video, out of my league but a pleasure to watch👍
Great editing! Nice project as well. Jointing is step one in milling within the shop, and our jointers probably don't get the investment love that other tools in the shop do.
+Rivertown Woodcraft Thanks for your feedback. I do consider the jointer to be the most critical machine in the wood shop.
The angle iron should be doweled to the cast iron to lock in the current position in order to preserve your excellent setup. Liked.
amazing sir, well done
Great job, well done!
Love It. I can really appreciate the time you spent getting everything square and parallel. Good video explaining and showing the entire process.
Great work. Me personally I would probably end up spending more getting the tools and materials, and my mistakes, than if I just spent the extra money for the longer bed from the beginning. I did like your video either way, again nice job.
great video sir as humble aircraft mechanic I enjoyed watching this
Cool. I was an aircraft mechanic too.
You cant go wrong with making something fly.
nice work.
Great video.😎
I feel your pain on the short beds of a six inch jointer Aaron. I made some wooden supports but as you said I am wasting time checking that they are in position. Great job putting the video together. I really enjoyed a bit of metal working thrown in.
Derek
+GiddyUp994 Thank you for your feedback.
Nice idea!
Way beyond my skill level. Nice work.
I’ll just buy the longer jointer
Wow, this is impressive. TO me the cost of time and tools heavily outweigh the benefit. I'll just get a used one on Craig's list haha!
Hi great video mate
good job I'm doing this now...Respect!
Awesome. Let me know how it goes.
ok Brother ill let you know...was thinking if building a stand that would hold my jointer and my 12" thikness planer. maybe even my thinness/drum sander all at the same time..."would make a good video for you" coolnproject also....God bless Brother
Brilliant!
Entertaining to watch. I generally watch youtube, then use the idea for applications in my workshop… I wish i could get this viewing time back. Again very entraining but not useful… I’m a wood working with a welder… tip toeing into metal working but now a full blow metal worker…
You sir are insanely detailed and I love it!
+Michael Summer Thank you.
Very nice. I think you said you had a surface grinder. A quicker method would be to grind one surface only flat. Instead of using spacers, install a "Jack" screw in the angle at each corner of the plate. Level the plate with the jack screws, lock them in place with jam nuts and screw down the plate. Now I don't have to machine both sides of the plate nor do I have to make perfect length spacers.
Great idea.
This video made me want to buy a metal lathe. But all I wanted was longer jointer beds. No joke
I was all wood worker, but one day I bought a metal lathe. Now I do a lot of machining with my wood projects and love it. Such a valuable tool.
Fascinating idea! I am curious to know whether the extension units have caused any additional sagging in the casting since installation? This seems like it would add a considerable amount of leverage against the dovetail ways in the body of the jointer.
Very cool!
Respect Sir!
Great video. I was just thinking about doing something similar on my craftsman 6” jointer. I was thinking to take another 6” jointer, as they can be found cheaper than new steel, and see if I can cut it up and use it for extensions. Not sure if it would work until I actually take a closer look at it.
That's a good idea to use parts from another joiner.
Good job, Aaron. While I agree accuracy is important, I dont know that 3/1000" off at three feet out from the blade was that huge of a deal ;o) Cheers, friend
I might do this if I can find the time. You did a great job but the process could be simplified. A 1/2 " steel plate great , but seems to be gross overkill. I would use a 3/8" or 1/2" aluminum plate depending on availability as cut-offs (leftovers). These can be found already flat. Instead of custom standoffs, I would use a jack (push) screw paired with a pull screw in pairs at each corner of the plate (4 pairs). This would make adjustment quick and easy and requires no lathe. Future adjustments would be easy. The pull screws should be studs mounted to the plate by drilling and tapping the plate. Bottom tapping would be best, but through drilling and tapping the plate should not be a functional issue. On second thought, even a 1/4" plate would be adequate to this task. Thanks for the inspiration!
Yup, there's many ways to skin a cat. I originally thought about using aluminum plates, however, I didn't want the aluminum oxidation on the wood.
Show us what you come up with; I'd love to see it.
Makes me wish I had a lathe!
Great THANK YOU !!!!
Great video! I'm gonna try this. My idea though is most home reno stores have demo-sample-cuts of granite/marble for countertop upgrades, that could be an idea for a true flat surface
good stuff, i assume you check it occasionally because you tend to lift the extension table when moving the jointer.
Yes, the table has not moved yet to warrant readjustment. Holds better than I thought it would.
REALLY enjoyed your video -well explained and demonstrated! As a novice woodworker looking to purchase my first jointer-made a note to self -get a jointer with the longest bed extensions as I can afford!! quick question; if I found a "great deal" however; short bed; a machine shop could make the parts? I'm guessing that by the amount of work you put in to it, their charges would be fairly high? again, many thanks ands a job well done!..ken
Instead of angle sections I would have used cold rolled bars say 1/2"or 3/8" thick by 2" wide at what ever length you need. This would eliminate all the fussin' with shims and they would be plenty stiff in that short length, especially bolted together with a 1/2" plate in between. The plate would be drilled and tapped for 5/16" bolts, 3 on each side. Oversize holes in the side plates will allow for slight adjustments. Washers can be used between the jointer and side plates to space them out if there is an offset lip such as you have. The support plates would be the same width as the jointer tables using this approach.
Great job, but the double-side tape part really scared me. :)
I definitely do not trust double sided tape as much as you do! good work
Great video! Thank you..what kind of mobile base are using?
Just the standard base that came with the joiner.
so simple! ;)
Aaron, Great video, What did you use for the shims and do you have a source where to buy.
Thanks. I used a variety pack of shims that can be purchased from Amazon.
good evening! What is the model of the machine?
instead of shims think I'm going to just have ajustments and lock nuts. Respect Brother
think I'm also adding 16" plates because I have the room and a longer fence also
Cool!
That is very nice work! Clearly this isn't your first rodeo as you have some great machinist skills. I am just wondering what is the swing on your lathe and how many RPM you were turning it at?
Thank you. The lathe is a 12" swing with a gap that allows up to 15". I don't remember the RPMs I used for this project, but it was pretty low.
I'm so jealous.
Aaron, this was awesome! Could you tell me the make and model of that double-sided tape and where it's available? Great process. Thank you!!
Hello, I think it was just a thick carpet tape from the hardware store. I don't remember the specifics anymore; been a while.
@@AaronWeedC thanks so much!
You do amazing work, but once I saw your metal lathe, I knew you were a Major league player and I was just playing high school ball! I better stick to flying airplanes! :)
I added a power feed unit to the outfeed table. Takes a lot of the problems away from this incorrect use of the jointer.
I would NEVER trust sticky tape to handle this lathe job. I value my body too much to risk an adhesion failure.
Hey Aaron, I have a similar jointer. How do you adjust the infeed/outfeed alignment? Thanks.
In-feed and out-feed are adjusted through the normal mechanisms that come with the machine. I didn't mess with those at all. Or are you just asking in general about adjustment?
My tables aren't coplaner. I have a straight edge and feeler guages, but now idk what to do haha. What do the gib screws in the back do. Btw mine is a shopline
I had to shim the outfeed table under one side to get them coplanar. I put the shim under one of the sliding ways. I rarely move the outfeed table (except during a blade change), so the shim moving around is not a problem.
Yea I ended up having to shim both tables. I'll just keep the movement to a minimum.
Did all that.
I admire the the patience that you have; you're obviously very talented. But shouldn't you get more than 20" for all of your trouble. How about 30" at least? Just curious.
LOL. You have a whole factory there. I can get a brand new jointer for the amount of money I have to spend to buy a metal lathe.
Why did you not just use allthread?
Allthread would have also worked well. Just not what I chose at the time.
I wish you were my neighbor lol
Who can i get to rebuild and de-rust an older table-saw.?
Where do you live?
shoot me an email,and I will respond asap.Tablesaw restoration man
Lord have mercy, really smart and clearly not poor. You must have been really bored here.
So I priced it out, and it is in fact cheaper for me to just purchase a longer jointer than it is for me to purchase the extra steel and the metal lathe. Great video though.
I know i am 6 years late, but why not carefully grind the angle iron to meet the angle of the jointer casting.
Fireball tools sells a cast iron fixture plate that would be perfect for this. They are 9” square and machined flat. They also sell weld on mounts that are adjustable. Just search fireball tool on the web and here on UA-cam.
Really nice video. I appreciate you taking the time to capture all the steps. After all your tuning and testing did you notice if the lack of flatness of your original jointer bed effects face jointing? You cured it for edge jointing but I wondered if you were able to quantify the effects when flattening stock.
+diymark Yes, it worked well for any use of the jointer. The dip I pointed out in the one end of the bed did not hurt flattening with the new extensions attached.
Good lord, this man is concerned about 1/1000 in. inaccuracy. Holy cow. He's patient and he has very low tolerances haha.
I would have used Nuts on the bolts to adjust the table heights.
Why not add a couple feet to each end?
I only wanted add the length I really needed. My joiner is in a confined space, so extra feet would interfere with other equipment. Plus there would be too much deflection on the joiner table from the massive leverage a few extra feet would have caused. I'm not sure the table castings could handle the weight of the extra length without cracking.
Aaron Weed I kind of gathered that as you stated that at the end. My jointer is 82” and I love it. Great video sir.
I would love for it to be 82". If I can get my wife to move her car out of the garage, then maybe it will work.
I like
Why 10"? what about 20"?
You have to switch full weight of body to hands to front bed as soon as the apex of the board has passed the cutter head you can’t just stand behind the cutter head and run a long board through and expect it to stay flat on the out feed bed you must move forwards with the boards as the apex moves from the in feed bed to the out feed bed watch a couple jointer use how to videos and you will see I believe that was your main issues with the jointer before ever even starting to extend it and after when you were having issues you have to move forward or it’s very very very hard to get straight edges you move forward with your body then push on the out feed bed you can’t just keep pressure the whole board length on the in feed table
So I just need a $2k lathe and I'm good? LOL Thanks for the video though. It was great.
Like I said in the video, a local machinist can flatten the plates; and better than how I flattened these.
@@AaronWeedC Think that lathe is over 5k :D
@@PoYoTheWild No. It cost me less than $1,400 USD.
@Mark Armstrong Phone book, Google, etc. Just like finding anything else.
Why not invest in a quality jointer/planer from Felder and use their table extensions?
Because it was much cheaper for me to do it this way. It would be great to buy a big new joiner, but not what I wanted to spend my money on at that time. I also did not want a joiner as wide as Felder offers because of space limitations.
How much this price
I am not a machinist, so perhaps my question is naive. Your extension plates were not flat on either side. Yet you flattened the first side while referencing the other side, which was not yet flat. Then you flattened the second side. Thus, the two sides were not coplanar, right? Then, you had to trim and shim the spacers. So, attempting to flatten the second side of each plate was a waste, wasn't it? Otherwise, I enjoyed the video and your ingenuity.
Think I'd invest in a surface grinder.
I think it would have been easier to make and more accurate if the end of the extension and the end of the jointer table were bolted directly together.
$0.02, I enjoyed this video but it seemed like a lot of steps (I lack patience). Could you have added a longer piece of steel to each end and had the entire infeed and out feed tables milled to insure flatness of the entire length? I have no idea how much a shop would charge for that or how much set up time you would spend re assembling everything. Thanks
+MrMnchstr It would be ideal to have a machine shop grind the extension and table flat together like you said, but I'm sure it would have quite a bit more expense since larger than normal machines would need to be used. But I haven't checked pricing to be sure.
Aaron, I have a Chinese vertical milling machine with a table which is around 30" by 8". I was sure, after a while, that it wasn't as flat as it should have been. I contacted an engineering firm that does "grinding", and in fifteen minutes, for $30, they ground that sucker dead flat, within a few tenths of a thousandth of an inch.
Paying cash helps. Being prepared to wait helps, and even better is gossiping with the shop owner while he does the work.
That is a good deal. I have an old milling machine table that I need to have ground flat. Good to know it is not as expensive as I thought it might be.
I don't understand why you needed to shim the sides.
The explanation is at 3m:01s