What a great help you are... thank you :-) Eventually I will buy some TB6600's, but for now, I need a small stepper motor, so I want to use a 28BYJ-48 together with a ULN2003 driver. But that driver has 4 outputs. Any recommendations on how to connect that, or do I need another driver? Many thanks.
@@BiolapseStudios Thank you for answering so quickly :-) So, I ordered this same driver you are showing here, and connected everything in the same way. But there is no any movement whatsoever. I do see the leds on the arduino flikkerig when trying to jog in Dragonframe, so that hould be good. Am I correct thinking that you have the enable+ connection on the driver not used? -----EDIT: I am using the newest DragonFrame sketch, version 2.1.0. But I guess it should work with the same setup.
superb tutorial. i am able to make setup 3 axis motion control with Arduino Uno r3 . Next time i will do the experiment with Arduino mega for dragon frame . Thank you .
Thanks for the response before! I'm a little confused on the power supply. The one you linked is no longer available so I ordered the one Amazon said is frequently purchased along with the steeper drivers. It's a 24v 18.75a 450 watt unit. In your notes above you say 'reccd at least 24v power supply if you want higher speeds' so it seemed appropriate. Then in the middle of the night I'm thinking, bbut the motors are 12v, right? and I re-watched the video and you say get a 12v power supply. So I'm wondering, did I go wrong with the 24v? Is there something I need to do to keep from burning up the motors or the board? (I see the board inputs says DC9-42v so I guess it can handle it) Thanks again, and beautiful work.
12 is really the minimum in something like this. As steppers speed up thier inductance increases, so higher voltages allow you to get better speeds. There is certainly a limit to how fast an arduino can drive the motors. But 24v is always going to be a good choice.
thanks for the tutorial, i recently purchased dragonframe. Although the dmc 512 controller i'm after is out of stock at the moment. Perhaps i can use an ardunio to run a few lights. I notice you mention chonos. By any chance did you use to be active on the timescapes forum run by rob lowe ?
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I had a quick question I was hoping someone could help me answer. At the end, there was a brief mention about a “DIP switch”. Is this something that also needs to be purchased as part of the basic set up? Initially I understood the set up as needing the power supply, the stepper motor, the driver, and of course Arduino. So where does the DIP switch come into play during this set up? Thanks again for this walkthrough.
Hi Raven Hill, The dipswitches are used to limit the amount of current to the motor as well as to set the microstepping and normally on the driver. If using small drivers like the 4988, or other common small chip drivers that are commonly used for 3d printers there are no dipswitches, rather there is rotary adjustment on the fact that can be turned to increase/decrease current, and Microstepping pins that can be set to positive or negative by direct connections to control the microstepping. If using a larger drivers that are enclosed they have a row of dipswitches built in between the motor/power connections and the control wiring.these types of drivers normally have print on the case that explains the dipswitch on/off settings for the current and microstepping. What kind of drivers do you have?
No that's the MS1 MS2 and MS3 pins. For microstepping. If you have +5 volts to all three pins you get 3200ms Check this link, it covers hoe t9 configure from 200 full stepping to 3200 microstepping lastminuteengineers.com/a4988-stepper-motor-driver-arduino-tutorial/
@@BiolapseStudios thanks I figured it out. I had to run a pin from the 3.3v (arduino)to the breadboard then I could connect ms1, 2 and 3 as I needed for the desired resolution. In case someone had the same question.
I purchased all the components and the terminal blocks don't fit quite right. The holes for each terminal block are spaced at 3.5mm and each fits individually. They don't fit as group or even next to each other. They bind. I have taken a Dremel and sanded them down just to see if manufacturing tolerance is an issue - and I cannot sand enough without compromising the integrity of the block and still get them to fit. Is there a narrower terminal block that will not bind once installed? Or, am I doing something completely wrong here?
Thank you!!!! I’ve been stuck on this for about 2 years!
Ok, this was a great video. About to dabble in this myself. Perfect primer. But, WHOA!!!!!! Using a knife as a pointer on electronics? ;)
Straight up gangsta!
Thank you for the tutorial. HUGE hug
What a great help you are... thank you :-) Eventually I will buy some TB6600's, but for now, I need a small stepper motor, so I want to use a 28BYJ-48 together with a ULN2003 driver. But that driver has 4 outputs. Any recommendations on how to connect that, or do I need another driver? Many thanks.
Honestly I'm not exactly sure. I don't think I have ever used that driver :(
@@BiolapseStudios Thank you for answering so quickly :-) So, I ordered this same driver you are showing here, and connected everything in the same way. But there is no any movement whatsoever. I do see the leds on the arduino flikkerig when trying to jog in Dragonframe, so that hould be good. Am I correct thinking that you have the enable+ connection on the driver not used? -----EDIT: I am using the newest DragonFrame sketch, version 2.1.0. But I guess it should work with the same setup.
superb tutorial. i am able to make setup 3 axis motion control with Arduino Uno r3 . Next time i will do the experiment with Arduino mega for dragon frame . Thank you .
Great video man! So you basically can use the Arduino and Dragonframe combo for continuous motions?
Thanks
awesome man thank you!
Thanks for the response before! I'm a little confused on the power supply. The one you linked is no longer available so I ordered the one Amazon said is frequently purchased along with the steeper drivers. It's a 24v 18.75a 450 watt unit. In your notes above you say 'reccd at least 24v power supply if you want higher speeds' so it seemed appropriate. Then in the middle of the night I'm thinking, bbut the motors are 12v, right? and I re-watched the video and you say get a 12v power supply. So I'm wondering, did I go wrong with the 24v? Is there something I need to do to keep from burning up the motors or the board? (I see the board inputs says DC9-42v so I guess it can handle it) Thanks again, and beautiful work.
12 is really the minimum in something like this. As steppers speed up thier inductance increases, so higher voltages allow you to get better speeds. There is certainly a limit to how fast an arduino can drive the motors. But 24v is always going to be a good choice.
I've been looking for something like this for awhile!! What are those round connectors you use for output on your driver box?
4 pin aviation connectors! Glad this helped!
thanks for the tutorial, i recently purchased dragonframe. Although the dmc 512 controller i'm after is out of stock at the moment. Perhaps i can use an ardunio to run a few lights. I notice you mention chonos. By any chance did you use to be active on the timescapes forum run by rob lowe ?
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I had a quick question I was hoping someone could help me answer. At the end, there was a brief mention about a “DIP switch”. Is this something that also needs to be purchased as part of the basic set up? Initially I understood the set up as needing the power supply, the stepper motor, the driver, and of course Arduino. So where does the DIP switch come into play during this set up? Thanks again for this walkthrough.
Hi Raven Hill,
The dipswitches are used to limit the amount of current to the motor as well as to set the microstepping and normally on the driver. If using small drivers like the 4988, or other common small chip drivers that are commonly used for 3d printers there are no dipswitches, rather there is rotary adjustment on the fact that can be turned to increase/decrease current, and Microstepping pins that can be set to positive or negative by direct connections to control the microstepping.
If using a larger drivers that are enclosed they have a row of dipswitches built in between the motor/power connections and the control wiring.these types of drivers normally have print on the case that explains the dipswitch on/off settings for the current and microstepping.
What kind of drivers do you have?
Thank you!
Great video! Really helpful. How do you get 3200 steps out of the old a4988 drivers? Is that what the enable pin is for?
No that's the MS1 MS2 and MS3 pins. For microstepping. If you have +5 volts to all three pins you get 3200ms
Check this link, it covers hoe t9 configure from 200 full stepping to 3200 microstepping
lastminuteengineers.com/a4988-stepper-motor-driver-arduino-tutorial/
@@BiolapseStudios thanks I figured it out. I had to run a pin from the 3.3v (arduino)to the breadboard then I could connect ms1, 2 and 3 as I needed for the desired resolution. In case someone had the same question.
I purchased all the components and the terminal blocks don't fit quite right. The holes for each terminal block are spaced at 3.5mm and each fits individually. They don't fit as group or even next to each other. They bind. I have taken a Dremel and sanded them down just to see if manufacturing tolerance is an issue - and I cannot sand enough without compromising the integrity of the block and still get them to fit. Is there a narrower terminal block that will not bind once installed? Or, am I doing something completely wrong here?
Not sure I understand, shoot me an email chris@biolapse.com and send a couple photos of the issue
Never use a sharp knife with gentle electronics 🤣
Great Tutorial --- btw it's pronounced "AR DWEEN OH" not "AR DREEN OH" - there's no R after the D.
Be careful to use knife when connect to Power!