I used the big white oring when doing this is it a myth that without it can be bad for engine. Great overview cleaning sump pan is work but avoids flushing it out with solvent.
Why don’t you source the type and amount of oil from a BMW spec manual. Surely BMW knows what’s best for their bikes and those Germans seem to be very good at this sort of attention to detail to provide this info. Apparently all the parts for these bikes are still widely available in Germany which is great too.
Huge thanks. This is extremely useful. I’ve just bought a 2011 Ural Retro Classic with sidecar which is basically an old BMW Airhead made in Russia since 1941 with virtually no innovation beyond the addition of a front disc brake. So living in the UK’s Lake District with little in the way of support, I’ll be maintaining the thing myself and I’m fairly sure what works on your bike will apply to the Ural as well. I was given a load of oils with the bike for the various areas that need it so when I’m back in the garage I’ll be looking into it. I was told on the Ural to change the oil at 2500km which is only 1500 miles for all the reasons you outlined. Anyway my first job is actually to replace the tyres by hand… wish me luck!
Sehr schönes Motorrad.
I used the big white oring when doing this is it a myth that without it can be bad for engine. Great overview cleaning sump pan is work but avoids flushing it out with solvent.
Het there, what brand/type of mufflers did you fit on this airhead engine ? Great sound.
Greethings, Peter
Wonderfull bike 🙂
Thanks!
Why don’t you source the type and amount of oil from a BMW spec manual.
Surely BMW knows what’s best for their bikes and those Germans seem to be very good at this sort of attention to detail to provide this info.
Apparently all the parts for these bikes are still widely available in Germany which is great too.
👍
Up here in Canada we are rocking 96-104f and in an r60 20/50 not good. Manual says straight 40 and older engines like single weight.
I'd agree up in Canada with the colder temperatures
Huge thanks. This is extremely useful. I’ve just bought a 2011 Ural Retro Classic with sidecar which is basically an old BMW Airhead made in Russia since 1941 with virtually no innovation beyond the addition of a front disc brake. So living in the UK’s Lake District with little in the way of support, I’ll be maintaining the thing myself and I’m fairly sure what works on your bike will apply to the Ural as well. I was given a load of oils with the bike for the various areas that need it so when I’m back in the garage I’ll be looking into it. I was told on the Ural to change the oil at 2500km which is only 1500 miles for all the reasons you outlined. Anyway my first job is actually to replace the tyres by hand… wish me luck!
Please post more videos. Very helpful and informative. I’m getting into maintaining my newly rebuilt R75/5. Thank you!
Sure thing!
Do more Beemer videos! Great videos
More to come!
Great to have torque settings for bolts
Snug up the oil pan bolts, not too tight.
Gluplji prikaz necete naci
It has a Borneo registration number.
good vid,,have you changed the gearbox oil ? what oil did you use because i am struggling to find gearbox oil info,keep up the videos,they are great