SWEAT SOLDERING /Part 2/Wire to Wire & Wire to Sheet Silver USING THE 5 SECRETS TO PERFECT SOLDERING
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- Опубліковано 29 чер 2024
- Learn how to sweat solder wire perfectly, every time. Basic soldering tutorial, how to sweat solder when making sterling silver jewelry. Part 2 of series of 2 , Sweat Soldering Tutorials. This is a great tutorial for beginners, showing how to sweat solder Wire to Wire and Wire to Sheet Silver CORRECTLY. Greg Greenwood using his 5 Secrets to Perfect Soldering, makes this jewelry making tutorial an easy to understand, comfortable experience. Sweat soldering CORRECTLY, will make your jewelry projects leap to the next level.
Thank you Greg Greenwood! This is exactly what I needed to see and remind me what I needed to do.
Hello Debra, You are more than welcome. Glad I am able to help you. Keep it up. Greg Greenwood
Greg, I love your videos. Your energy is fantastic and your enthusiasm for what you do makes your instruction engaging. I especially appreciate that you address the steps and skills that can be difficult and how you offer suggestions for more successful implementation. I’m just getting back into making jewelry after taking 7 years off to go back to teaching. Your videos are a great review! Thank you! Keep them coming!
Thank you very much for your kind words. I appreciate it very much. Glad to hear your are getting back to jewelry. Once it is in your blood it will always be there! If you have any questions along the way, please feel free to let me know. Thanks again. Greg Greenwood
I just subscribed to your channel! I love that you are concise and don't drone on and on with useless talk just to fill in time. Your info is relevant and very useful! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and BTW you are adorable and clearly love what you do!
Hello Samuella, Thank you for your kind comments. Thanks for subscribing. Yes, I love sharing and am very glad you are enjoying my videos. If you have any questions in the future, please let me know. Thanks again. Greg Greenwood
Nonquestiins as your such a great teacher that you cover everything I was wanting to ask😊
Hello Kim. Happy to hear that! Greg Greenwood
Thanks Greg, your. Ideas are great. Informational, easy to follow a d so appreciated. I loved the sweat soldering lesson!
Hello Elizabeth, Thank you for your kind comments. Glad you are enjoying. Keep watching. Greg Greenwood
Greg, thank you for these videos you are putting out. Great quality and great content. The information you deliver is not only well structured and accompanied by good examples, but it is also wonderfully produced: clear shots and nice editting. I hope that more and mroe subscribers will start flowing to you, just as that silver solder flows to heat. I'm sure it is just a matter of time! Keep it up and wishing you all the best!
Thank you clepsyd, You just made my day. I am very glad you are enjoying the videos. I appreciate your kind comments. The best to you and keep safe. Greg Greenwood
I'm so glad I've found you, Greg! I find your lessons so applicable to my current efforts. Thanks again!!
Hello Johnnytarponds, Glad you like them! If you have any questions in the future, please let me know. Happy you founds me!! Thanks Greg Greenwood
Amazing teacher ! Truly enjoy watching your videos
Hello Paprika Veg, I appreciate your kind comments. Keep watching, more to come. Greg Greenwood
Greg, THANK YOU for your videos! I just HAPPENED upon your page and just after a few views I'm even more enlightened!!! I truly enjoy watching your instruction! 🙂
Hello. Thank you for your kind comments. You just made my day!!! I am very glad you are enjoying them. That is Great!. Thanks again. Greg Greenwood
Wow all I can say is thank you Brother 😎👍💯
Hello Redman's, You are absolutely welcome! My pleasure. Greg Greenwood
Really well done, Thank you!
Flora, Thank you very much. I appreciate it!!! Greg Greenwood
Thanks again for another excellent video. You're awesome Greg!
Absolutely My pleasure! Thank you for your comments. Greg Greenwood
Cheers Greg.
Hello Allan, The best to you! Greg Greenwood
Awesome videos! THANK YOU!
Hello P.E. Thank you very much, I really appreciate your comments. Keep watching! Greg Greenwood
Thank you Greg for sharing your wisdom with us!! I learned so much from you!!
Hello Bilge, Happy to hear that! You are more than welcome. Enjoy. Greg Greenwood
Excellent video! Thank you!
Hello Susana, Thank you very much. I appreciated your comment. Greg Greenwood
I love how you teach. my favorite thank you
Hello Rachel, You are so welcome. I appreciate your kind comments. Thank you. Greg Greenwood
Great place to learn, thanks for making the video.
Thanks Larry, You are welcome. Greg Greenwood
Thanks Greg. Just in time that I needed how to sweat wire to wire and wire to sheet, millions thanks for your tutorials video. Take care ❤
Hello Elisa, The stars have lined up for you. Very glad I can help you. The best to you. Greg Greenwood
Great instructions ...best I have found on youtube....I subscribed!
Thank you again. I'm glad you like my videos. Greg Greenwood
Such great information!😊
Hello Martha, Glad you think so! Greg Greenwood
Terrific
Thanks again. The best to you. Greg Greenwood
Another great tutorial with EXCELLENT photography- thanks again!
Hello dondoyle111, Thanks again! Enjoy. Greg Greenwood
You earned a sub. Marvelous technique and very enjoyable videos.
Hello Juan, Thank you for the sub and your kind comments. I really appreciate it. Keep watching. Greg Greenwood
that's some really nice soldering. lots to practice here. thanks Greg.
Thank You. Practice, practice, practice. Greg Greenwood
This is very helpful thank you!
Hello ! Glad it was helpful! You are more than welcome. Keep watching. Greg Greenwood
Very nice. Although...
For the (first) jump ring example I'd rather use a pick soldering method which should reduce cleanup work even more.
For the (second) earring example, I would use a ball burr on the earring to make a shallow indentation first and a finishing burr on the earpost to enlarge the soldering surface. Also the earpost would just "drop" into the shallow dent allowing for perfect positioning.
Same for the third example.
For the 4th example, you should mention that placing the solder on the application instead of the recipient is essential and will greatly reduce the cleanup work. If possible (eg with fine silver) I would use reduction solder (rarely used nowadays - an ancient method that uses copper oxides to create solder "in situ" but can't be done with sterling or below) - a great thing if you have to solder on tiny pieces (granules or filigree wire with diameters < 0.6mm) as you won't even see the solder seam (again, unfortunately only possible with almost pure silver or gold).
Hello Torsten, Great suggestions. I agree with you. You are right on! That is what is so fascinating about soldering jewelry. There are so many ways to solder a solder joint. I do use some of the methods you suggested. Sometimes in demo videos it is hard to cover all of the possibilities. I really appreciate your thoughts. You must do nice work!! Thanks again. Greg Greenwood
Thank you for all the tips and techniques of sweat soldering!
Hello 12mygirls, You are so welcome! Greg Greenwood
Thank you, that last piece was what I was trying to do today, solder a snake onto the flat piece. I failed because of cleaning, and I didnt add enough pallions ! I also need a tripod thingy lol.
Hello drsyn, Glad to hear you are able to figure out what you need to do to be successful! You may want to check out my video "5 Secrets to Perfect Soldering". Good Luck and thank you for letting me know how you are doing. Keep it up! Greg Greenwood
Beautifully done❤
Hello Kim. Many many thanks. I really appreciate it. Thank you for watching. Greg Greenwood
Good very helpful thanks doc
Hi Malcolm, My pleasure. Enjoy. Glad I could help. Greg Greenwood
Thank you fo explaining this so thoroughly. I’m hoping this will help me make cleaner joins.
Hi Marcia, I hope so too!! Greg Greenwood
For me this is really useful, I often find in my projects that I have a large heavy piece that will take a lot of heat to get to the proper temperature and I'm trying to attach a small light piece to that. Now I know how to do this, it's also helpful that I can watch how the whole process happens (the wonders of video).
Hello Paul, Thank you for your comments. Glad I can help you. Keep watching and if you have any questions in the future, please feel free to let me know. Greg Greenwood
Man this has been super helpful.
Hello Wallace, Very glad to hear my video was helpful. If you have any questions in the future, please feel free to let me know. Thanks. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 Oh man, that would be fantastic if you dont mind. I have a heat shield for a ww2 shotgun that I am trying to repair. Its made from low to mid grade steel.
What is essentially wrong is that the shield was spot welded on each end to another piece which that piece is tightened around the barrel. The spot welds were poor and they popped right off when the bands were tightened.
To simplify my description, both the shield and the collars they separated from are only about 1/8 of an inch combined. I was planning on silver soldering it exactly like you have in your videos particularly with the sweating method.
Im just struggling to determine exactly which flux and which wire or rod to use? If my description is poor I took photos and you would immediately see what needs to be done.
Anyhow your videos have made me want to start working on a whole bunch of projects.
I have a MAAP torch, Ive just been researching trying to make sure I have the correct components.
Hello Wallace, Using borax flux and "easy" silver solder should do the job for you. Make sure that your torch will get the metal hot enough for the solder to melt. Rio Grande Jewelry supply will have the borax flux and the easy silver solder. Good luck and let me know how it goes. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 That's great, thank you kindly! I'll certainly update.
Hello Wallace, The best to you. Greg Greenwood
Thankyou for sharing I'm new to silversmithing so need lots information.
Hello Sandy, Awesome, I am glad you have discovered silversmithing and jewelry making. It is a terrific field. Check out my channel and view the videos. I know you will discover some good information. If you have any questions, anytime, please let me know. Thanks. Greg Greenwood
Thank you so much Greg! I was having trouble attaching a wire connector to a link and realized I really need another third hand! 🤦🏻♀️ I’m wondering how I managed without two all along!
Hello Susie, Yes, third hands are great. Get a couple more. Thank you for sharing. Greg Greenwood
I’m going to use this technique today Greg. Will report. Many thanks - Skepsie
Hello Skepsie, Great!! The best to you. Greg Greenwood
Hi Greg - Thank you! I did it. A 2 inch silver square pitted with earlier attempts at acid etching and twenty small pieces of copper and brass to fit - finally held together by sweat-soldering. It got exciting as the flux created water enough to slide the pieces off and scatter the solder. Many lessons learnt including the use of dry powdered flux. You gave me the confidence. 😄 Skepsie
Hello Skepsie, Hurray!!!!!!! Way to Go!!! I knew you would do it. It feels good doesn't it? I am very happy that you have discovered and moved forward. Keep it up and keep watching. I'm proud of you. Greg Greenwood
Thanks V Much Greg - love your encouragement; now to take it to my adult college workshop (England UK) mill it flat, polish and cut it and work the pieces into a necklace? bracelet? earrings? 🙏🙏 Skepsie
Hello Skepsie, You are more than welcome. Keep it up. Let me know your jewelry progress. Greg Greenwood
Excellent🙏🏻
Thank You, I am glad you enjoyed the video. I hope it helps you with your projects. Let me know if you have any questions. I am here to help. Greg Greenwood
This video was great
Thanks again. Enjoy. Greg Greenwood
Good job Mr. Greenwood. God Bless you. Live long so we learn more from you... Question. Was it easy solder??? On all of them.???
Hello Serjio, Yes, for the demonstration I used easy solder. But when there is more than one solder joint, I use Medium and then Easy. Thank you for your question. Keep watching! Greg Greenwood
Mr. Greenwood, will you please do some more videos? Your videos are so helpful because you are so skilled, knowledgeable and have a wonderful teaching technique. I watched these about a year ago and am rewatching them now.
Hello Texas Gigi, You bet, I'll be doing more videos. Thank you for your kind comments. Glad you are watching. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 I’m having a lot of trouble with jump rings. Apparently I’m not sawing the coils straight and of course that makes connecting them with a seamless look, impossible. I’m taking a jewelry course in person. My last three classes, all I’ve done is work on a four inch piece of chain, that I’ve made from scratch with my jump rings. I’m really, really frustrated. I’ve practiced and practiced, to no avail.
Hello Gigi, Have you watched my video "Making Jump Rings No Expensive Tools" ? I give several ways of making jump rings easily. Watch it and see if the techniques help you. Let me know how it goes. Greg Greenwood
Greg, Thanks for these informative videos. I've just started metal working making copper pieces. Until last week I have been learning to solder by trial and error. I came across your videos this week and have watched them all and have learned a tremendous amount about soldering by doing so. Putting these practices to use has made a huge difference in the ease of doing the work as well as the quality of the pieces I have made. I will be making jewelry as well in the future and hop to see more tips in the future. One question please. When working with copper, is pickling used as it is with silver? Thanks Much!!
Hello Bill, Way to go! I am very glad that you have started metal working and jewelry. It can be very satisfying. Yes, you will want to pickle your copper pieces too. You need to clean the pieces for soldering. But there are times that you will want to leave the heat patina on the metal. You also can go back over the copper after pickling and heat colorize. Copper can be very beautiful. Also, there are many chemicals that can turn copper different colors. Good luck, keep watching, and let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching and commenting. Greg Greenwood
Thanks Greg. It would help if you expound on the size of tip you're using and the type of flame. I think sometimes I'm using too large or small a flame and it would be helpful to know more about this. I use a Smith's little torch and I'm not always sure if I'm using too much or too little heat.
Hi Joanne, Sorry for the delay in replying to your great comments. I was working on my new video Stacker Rings Part 1 and I used your suggestion about the size of tip being used in the video!! Thanks! Great Idea. Sorry that you are having a little problem knowing the temp and size of tips to be used when you are soldering. This skill will come in time and having more experience with your torch. In the meantime, I would like to suggest an exercise that will give you an idea of what your torch and tips are capable of. 1. Take some scrap silver sheet about one square inch and put a cross lock tweezer on it. 2. Choose 2 or 3 tips for your torch and start with the smallest tip. 3. Heat the metal & tweezers until the metal is up to the annealing temperature. Count how long this takes. 4. Repeat this with your remaining tips. ..... You should have different times for each tip. This will show you how hot and fast the individual tips will heat up the metal. You can repeat this exercise using different sizes of silver wire also. (OK, now what?) The times for annealing will translate to the time that your solder will flow using different tip sizes. If it took 10 counts or more to get to the annealing temp, then this tip would not be a good choice for soldering. Move to a larger tip that will anneal the metal in less than 10 counts. You always want to use the size of tip that will heat the metal quickly so your flux does not burn off before the solder flows. When starting on a project, you can take the metal that will be used and anneal it with your torch. Use the tip that will anneal fast but not too fast as to melt the metal. ...I know this sounds like a lot of experimentation, but that is what you need to get used to your torch and tips. Don't worry, it will get easier and easier everyday!!! Good luck and let me know how you are doing. Greg Greenwood
Can you, please explain more about your torch setup. Thank you.
Hello Lester, I talk a little about my torch in 2 of my videos. " Silver Soldering Tool Review" and "Must Have Beginning Tools for Jewelry Making". Check them out and if you have any more questions, please let me know. Talk to you soon. Greg Greenwood
These series of videos are simply fantastic! You should trademark them all :-)) I need to know where/why to use very easy, easy, medium hard etc silver solders, percentages of silver in each kind, their temperature range (all can be soldered with a basic propane torch?), the flux to be used for each kind of solder (handy - borax flux for all?), and where/how you order them (H&M doesn't have an ordering website - do you have to call them?). Can you make a video in this aspect please? If you did, where can I find it? Happy new year!
Hello windsurfer, Thanks a million for your comments. I really appreciate it. To answer your questions, start by watching my video "What The Heck is Sterling Silver and Silver Solder?". This will answer a lot of your questions. Yes, all the solders can be melted using a propane torch. I use Handy Flux - borax flux for all of my solder jobs. You can order all of the solders, fluxes, and equipment through Rio Grande Jewelry Supply. They have a great web site. I hope I have answered most of your questions. If you have any more questions, please let me know. Have a good one!! Greg Greenwood
Qustion for you: Lets say you find a random length of white wire in the bottom of a drawer. It is unmarked, so not identified as any specific metal. You have been doing work in stainless steel, aluminum, but usually sterling. So, how do you determine what the wire is made of?
Hello Allan, Good question. 2 methods: The scrap test. All 3 metals have different hardness. Take a scraper and scrap each. Stainless will be very hard and resist scratching. Silver will resist less and aluminum will be very soft. Melting test. (most accurate) Cut a small piece of your wire and put a torch to it. Stainless will not melt, aluminum will melt very quickly and your silver will melt at a higher temp than aluminum. If you need to compare side by side, Cut some samples of the metals that you have been using. Lay them out side by side and put a piece of your unknown metal next to the samples. Heat and melt them and you will know. With more experience with the metals, you will learn the "feel" of them. I hope this has helped you. Good Luck. Greg Greenwood
Great video love your content. Extremely helpful.
I have a question, can I sweat solder attaching prongs to a 16 gage 950 silver dome using hard solder?
The prongs are holding a shell cameo to the silver dome. Does the annealing of the prongs last over night? Thank you for all your help.
Hello Christian, Yes, you can sweat solder prongs to the sheet dome with hard solder. But, I would use medium solder because you are probably not going to do any more soldering on the piece. Yes, the annealing will last forever. The only thing that will change it from being annealed is the piece being work hardened. Feel free to ask any question. I am here to help. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 Thank you very much. Keep the great content.
I am learning SO MUCH from your techniques.
Question: How do you vent for the fumes from soldering?
Hello Crazy, I am very happy you are learning. That is what it is all about! I use a kitchen stove vent hood. 2 speeds. It is vented to the outside. Thanks Greg Greenwood
Excellent instructional video! Thank you. Are you using sheet solder or wire? I use sheet and find it difficult to cuts these little pallions you speak of.
Hello Mary, Thank you for your kind comment. I use sheet solder for the majority of my work. I will be making a new video showing how to cut the sheet solder into paillions. It is easy!! Make sure that you click the bell to get a notification when the new video comes out. The best to you. Greg Greenwood
Wonderful videos. Soldering has been a thorn in my side for a long time and now I have a very important piece that I've worked on for hours that has to be sweat soldered. Been reviewing video after video and your's tops the list. Question: Do you make your borax flux? If so what is your recipe?
Hello Kathy, Thank you for your kind comments, I appreciate it!! I am so happy that my videos can be of help to you. No, I do not make my own borax flux. I have used "Handy Flux" for over 40 years and am very happy with it. I can always count on it working. A pound jar will last you a long time. Rio Grande Jewelry Supply stocks it. Just take the jar it comes in and put a small amount in a sealed small container so you do not contaminate the original jar. When the small jar gets a little dry, just add some water! If you have any questions about soldering in the future, please feel free to let me know. I am here to help. Thanks again. Greg Greenwood
I have a question I just finished up pendant, with sanding it and getting ready to set the stone when I noticed some of my twisted wire around the bezel Was not soldered down😮 what can I do to fix this without making the other things solder flow? Can I just put blocks around that area because there’s already solder and heat up that area until it flows I hope you can help me this is a special piece I’m making for my daughter. God bless you and you are a wonderful marvelous teacher. Deborah
Hello Deborah, When you find that a part of your project is not soldered, your heart sinks and you go into panic mode. (Happens to us all).... 1.) Don't worry. You can fix this!!! 2.) Decide what grade of solder you last used. I am assuming Easy. If it was Medium, then you should do the repair with easy. If it was Easy, that's OK. Use Easy or Extra Easy for the repair. 3.) You must protect all of the other solder joints except where you want to re-solder. 4.) Do you have any "Yellow Ochre" ? It is a powder that you mix with water to make a semi-thick paint. 5.) If you don't have yellow ochre, get your self some liquid "Wite Out" correction liquid. In your store's stationary section. 6.) Word of caution here. You will be heating the 'wite out' with your torch and it will give off fumes. Ventilate your soldering area. 7.) Paint all of the solder joints except where you will solder the unsoldered area. The yellow ochre and the wite out will prohibit the flow of solder. You can paint on a good amount. Don't let it touch the repair area!! 8.) Go ahead and flux and solder the repair area as you normally would. Be careful to not over heat the piece. 9.) Quench the piece in water and scrub with brush to remove the yellow ochre or wite out. 10.) Pickle as usual. 11.) Hurray!! All fixed for your daughter.
I hope this helps you. Let me know how it goes. You can do this! Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 thank you so much remembered you could use the white out, and I did use easy Sauter to fix it. You are an amazing teacher. Thank you for always getting back to me as quickly as you do I know you’re busy making your own creations. God bless you Deborah
Glad it worked out for you. Thanks Greg Greenwood
Regarding the last demonstration; (soldering wire onto sheet) can you stamp the wire after it's been soldered onto the sheet? Does it make any difference? Thanks for the excellent tutorial
Hello Flora, Great question. I normally like to stamp or texture the wires before I solder them onto the sheet. Two main reasons.. 1. The wires will stretch and move when you stamp or texture them and if you do it before you can put back to the exact shape you want. Also, when you stamp after the wire is soldered it might move or distort your sheet shape. 2. Whenever you stamp or texture, the back of the wire or sheet will have a slight texture left from the surface that you stamped on. This might hurt your nice smooth look on the back of your jewelry piece..... If you need to do any stamping after soldering, you can, but be careful to not ruin the good work that you have done. I hope this helps. Thanks for the question. Please let me know if you have any other questions. I am happy to help. Have fun!!! Greg Greenwood
What a thorough reply! That's excellent advice, thankyou so much. I was thinking along those lines too. I look forward to watching more from you 😀
Hi again (sorry I'm going to pick your brain!!); Why do you only put a teeny bit of flux on the spot where you want the post on the dome to solder on the earring post (leaving the rest of the disc naked/unprotected) but then decide to cover the entire flat disc with flux to solder on the forged wire? Flux protects from oxidation so why would you not cover the dome too? What's the criteria to decide each operation differently? Thanks again VERY much. What's the physics of it? Please!!
Hi Flying, Good observation. It is best to cover the entire piece in flux to prevent " fire scale". In the videos, sometimes I am trying to concentrate on the soldering process and not getting too complicated to confuse a beginning student. Thank you for all of your questions and comment. Greg Greenwood
Do you pickle after the first step of melting the soldier chips to the first piece?
Hello Leanne, I usually do, because there can be some extra oxides on the metal and I want to have a totally clean piece to solder. Thanks for watching. Greg Greenwood
My question is, aside from the gauge of wire, are you using sterling silver, fine silver or Argentium silver wire? Or does it make a difference when soldering any of these.
Hello Jeni, I am using Sterling Silver. Soldering Argentium is a whole different animal. Fine silver solders well, but is softer than sterling. Thanks you for watching. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 thank you so much!! Very helpful.
Hello Jeni, You are very welcome. Keep watching. Greg Greenwood
Hi Greg,I can’t seem to get my Borax flux correct. I’m using 20 Mule Team borax directly from the grocery store. I grind it to a finer powder and mix it with water to a paste. Parts are clean (I did the water bead test and it didn’t bead). The flux looks and seems to act correct but the solder will not flow just beads up. Any suggestions??
Thanks, Bob
Hello Bob, I am very sorry for the delay in responding to you!! The borax will work as your flux. If your solder is just beading up, that means that your metal is not hot enough. The solder is melted by the metal coming up to the flow temp of the solder. Try to keep your torch off of the solder and more onto the metal. "Indirect" heat is the answer. Also, make sure that you dip the solder into the flux before you place it on the metal. If the solder is not protected from oxides (with the flux) it will not flow. I use Handy Flux. It is a borax flux prepared. I am very happy with the performance. I hope this has helped you. Let me know how it goes. Again, sorry for the delay. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 Thanks Greg, I’ll try this tomorrow and let you know.
Great. Greg Greenwood
Hi Greg, I know it's been a year so I don't know if you'll see my comment or not but I'll give it a try. I have an essential tremor in my left arm which makes pick soldering impossible. Would I be able to sweat solder the bigger piece, then use a 3rd hand to hold the smaller piece in place and just re-heat the larger then heat the smaller to marry the pieces together? Thanks in advance!
Hello Ember, Thank you for sharing your situation with me. A nice thing about soldering is that there is ALWAYS a way to set up a piece to be soldered. Yes, you can set up the sweat soldering job the way you described. Also, I would suggest that you watch my video " 30+ Silver Soldering Set Ups". These set ups may give you some ideas for other projects. Thank you again for sharing, if we all work together, we can conquer any problem! Feel free if you have any questions in the future, to let me know. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 Thank you so much! I just watched the video and you are right, it really helped!!! I just discovered your videos today and have really been binging them! :) Thank you for posting them and taking time to reply to me and everyone else!!!
Hello Ember, You are more than welcome. Have fun binging!! Greg Greenwood
If you have patreon I would gladly join
Thanks, but not at this time. Greg
Are level solder are you using? Easy, medium or hard?
Hello Katie, It all depends on the design, but I usually start sweat soldering with hard first. It I am only doing the sweat soldering on the project, I will use easy. Thanks for your question. Keep watching. Greg Greenwood
HI Greg, Thanks so much for your wonderful videos! I have a question about soldering round wire to a curved sheet. Is there a way to contact you directly? It is difficult to explain and I'd rather send you a private message - Thanks!
Hi Brian, Sorry I do not have a direct contact for you. Give me a little more about your questions. I'll try to answer. Thanks Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 No problem Greg - Thanks for your help! I am just starting and making a belt buckle. I am trying to solder an 8ga. round wire to the concave side of the buckle. This round wire is bent at TWO 90 degree angles to be soldered to the sheet. There are a lot of angles going on... I don't know how to secure the buckle (which is convex and therefore moves easily on my solder block). Also, the two points of the round wire need to be curved to make good contact to the concave buckle. It's all a bit much for me to figure out!!! Thanks very much for your guidance. It is appreciated!
Hello Brian, You have described your belt buckle problem very well. I'm glad that you are curving the ends of the wire to match the curve of the buckle. This will give a stronger fit! Now, how to get it all holding together! If you are using third hands that is the most direct way to hold the wire on, but as you say the buckle is not secure. You can put some small pieces of soldering block under the buckle but you may not have extra ones to do this. Sooooo.... The best way I would recommend is the "old standard" of using binding wire. This is steel wire that you can wrap around the buckle in several different directions going over the wire to hold into position. Just cut some pieces of wire, wrap around the buckle and wire, twist the wire so it is fairly snug, then take your flat nose pliers and snug up the twist just enough to hold it firmly. You don't need to overdo the twisting because this could distort your buckle when it is heated. Don't let any solder touch the wire so it doesn't solder to the buckle. You can use as many binding wires as necessary to hold in place. This is a tried and true method of holding jewelry together for hundreds of years. Give it a try and make sure you use plenty of heat to do your soldering. Belt buckles usually take more heating to melt the solder. Also, I would use Easy solder for this job. Good Luck and let me know how it goes. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 Hi Greg! I have a similar question, I think. I was looking to do decorative wire around a larger piece (a circlet). I was thinking that I would follow a similar process as above, getting a tight fit then using your method with wire and/or some insulated clips to secure it. I'm wondering though since this is such a long piece (this would be roughly 21" of decorative wire to go around the entire outside of the circlet) if you would suggest a particular method of solder application, since I wouldn't be able to heat and melt everything uniformly? Thank you! -Evan
Hello E worma, I would suggest that you not try to solder the entire wire onto the circlet at one time. Go ahead and secure the wire with some cross lock tweezers or binding wire and solder in 4 spots around the circle. This will "tack" the wire to the circle. Then you need to remove the cross lock tweezers or binding wire and pickle to clean the metal. Now you can solder 4 more spots on the wire. The previous solder "tacks" will hold the wire in place as you solder. Don't try to heat the entire piece, just concentrate on one spot at a time. Repeat the pickling and then finish soldering any gaps. Fill in all the gaps and you should be done. I hope this helps you. Good Luck and let me know how it goes. Greg Greenwood
Ever put the solder on the small side?
Hello haidafella, Yes, in some cases that works well. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 ya it’s all I do.. but I like the look of your system.. i think I’ve been worried about my solder running on the larger material.. but I have issues at times mating material.. mind you, I always drill for my posts.
Hello haidafella, I know what you mean about the solder running on the larger material. And that is the danger of putting the solder onto the larger piece first. The main reason I put on the larger piece first is the heat. I can control the heat a little easier when I have to concentrate on the smaller piece. If the solder is on the smaller wire, for example, the solder could run up the small wire or the wire could melt by the time the larger piece is hot enough to melt the solder. But of course, there are ALWAYS exceptions!! LOL. I hope this makes sense! I'm glad you are drilling for posts. You always know where they are going to end up. Let me know how things go for you. Keep watching! Greg Greenwood
your borax flux …do you mix dry borax with water like I do?
Yours looks better! , more gel-like.
Hello Tod, I have used many different types of flux, including dry borax and water. My favorite is "Handy Flux". It is a mixture of borax and boric acid. It comes premixed and I use small amounts from the original container and put these small amounts into an air tight container. This way I don't contaminate the original source, just in case I get yellow ochre or other dirt in the the flux when I'm soldering. The "working" container during the day will start to dry up. It is very easy to rehydrate with distilled water. I only use distilled water in my flux because tap water may have iron etc. in it, which will affect the soldering process. The Handy Flux comes in one pound containers, is not expensive, and will last for a long time.
Thanks for watching, and if you have any questions in the future, please feel free to let me know. Greg Greenwood