Thank you. I have bought a engine from a guy thinking it was a 2054 and upon checking its not. I wasn’t sure how to figure what ratio rocker arms I had and you shed some light on that.I appreciate the time you take to make your videos to help newbies like myself.
My rig lost a rod bearing. After taking it apart I learned she bought me a baja with a 1835 thick wall that has a 110 cam. I'm now turning it into a 1968. And I'm going to be using this video for the rocker arm set up. Ty ezgz
Thanks for posting! This answered a lot of questions. I got a set of EMPI HD rocker assembly's and the swivel feet really threw off my geometry, I was reluctant to add shims until you took the time to explain it. Thank you!
I love how many different variations of the same vehicles you build. It makes it very entertaining and informative to learn what parts work well together.
The elephant rockers from CB require pre-lubing by soaking them in engine oil before installation or they will wear out just as you described. The original Porsche adjusters of this design seem to be NLA. They used to cost $100.00 per set.
I'm becoming a believer in your methods although there is no doubt I had it in and torqued correctly. Over the last few years and several thousands of miles I just beat the thing to submission. One stud on the other side broke during disassembly as well. Making some changes and might crack the case for a look see. I want to put it in the Baja and put a few miles on it first as well as monitor oil pressure over different conditions. Not sure I trust those stock pushrods with heavy duty springs. Stock pressure is 130 @ installed height vs 175 HD single. I've been watching you go around and around with Comp Cams......... Like you say: Life happens.....
With my CB-Performance Elephant Feet Adjusters I had one that kept needing valve adjustments but after about 10,000 miles they settled down and I am still running them.
I'm with you mate if your going to build an engine you have to stay focused on what you are doing. i have an engine that i am collecting parts for and I'm not going to start it till i have all the bits for it. that will be an interesting video to do later. have a great day mark
Never know about parts these days . Just had a go around with a V belt . had the right part numbers for the truck , but they had the wrong belt listed . The other parts store had the right one
Sad but true. To many people trying to rush and multi task. Not to mention many involved in the products don't speak, read or write the English language
the 2239 seems to be much like a stock cam but the lift of the 1.4 ratio rockers already included. the W-100 being another close example. keep compression close to stock maybe 8.0 as it adds just a dab of duration. ratio rockers with that cam probably did in your studs. change the other side with new while your disassembled for piece of mind. consider the damage done. should still be great motor after your done.
calm down and watch again. 2239 is only a guess as it's not marked. CB does not usually advertise to sell Engle brand cams. Stock is .334 lift. The 2239 with 1.1 is .aprox .418 NOT recommended for 1.4 at all. My measured lift was .530. Not to worry about the studs. I replaced both heads with new ones with 55cc volume as mentioned. There was metal on the drain magnet but hopefully the full flow oil filter caught the rest. Stay tuned and thanks for the input. Start up and testing coming soon.
+TheEZGZ no problem here all calm. but your suspect camshaft with 1.4 rockers is .530 lift. so very very good guess. only thing anxious about is hearing how she runs when done. should still be a hoot.
Most informative dude. I like to look at my parts when I am purchasing, I'm not near that smart and will be staying near the stock configuration. Thank for all the valuable information. VW:-)
What can you expect when running a set of 1.4 life rockers on a stock cam? Is it basically the equivalent of having a performance cam? I have a stock 1600 and am looking to do a few upgrades and the 1.4 rockers is one I am looking at but know very little about them. When doing the 1.4 rockers other then the upgraded pushrods is there anything else you suggest to add with the 1.4?
1.4 ratio rockers, dual carbs and free flowing exhaust will really wake up a 1600 Dual port with stock cam. The more head work the better it will run. Heavy duty springs are required and dual springs would be recommended. Dual 40 kadrons would be a good choice in carbs along mechanical advance dizzy. Do not take Pushrod length as a casual matter. In fact I would not recommend it at all unless your engine is in perfect condition. You will need to remove the engine and remove the heads along with pushrod tubes to do this correctly. If valve geometry is not perfect it will have a short life. It will run better even if you don't get it right. "For a While" Pay close attention to valve spring height blah blah blah. 1.25 ratio rockers would be more forgiving if your not experienced. As a matter of fact it's a lot easier to go with stock rockers on solid shafts with heavy duty single valve springs. The dual carbs and free flowing exhaust will make you smile over the stock 1600 DP. I can't recommend where to find parts as most of it available today is junk.
@@TheEZGZ Thank you very much for the detailed advice. I am fairly experienced in the automotive world but the VWs air cooled are new to me. I just got my 71 Super Beetle less then a week ago. I love to get my hands dirty and learn as much as I can. With that, in the distant future I woudnt mind trying to do my own rebuild but for now I just want to give it a little more pep. So If I am hearing you right, I should go with the 1.25 rockers, dual carbs and a free flow Exhaust for a good start? For a stock 1600cc what would be a good dual carb that will work on the stock 1600cc but with room to grow ( I.E bigger jets, etc...) if I do a cam and heads in the future? Also what are your top 3 free flow exhaust options that don't break the bank ($250-$300 lol or less) thank you for taking the time to answer
@@johnnyturbo8460 I have this conversation quiet frequently with folks. After 30 years of tinkering with these engines I have to say that the stock engine is what it is. The version you have started out as a 1300 SP and ended up as the 1600DP If your engine runs good, I suggest you leave it alone and enjoy the car as is. Keep watching vids and going to swap meets and find a club in your area. Listen, Listen, Listen. Everyone likes to talk about there cars. Watch and see who has problems and why. Watch to see who has lot's of problems and the trouble they have keeping it running well. People always want more power and they build bigger engines and even after getting it running well they want more. But that takes money. Sometimes these guys will sell you there old upgraded engine to finance there new dream engine. They might make you a really good deal if your a friend. The other way to go is keep your car as it is and slowly start gathering parts for your own project engine. There is a lot of use performance stuff out there. If you build the complete separate engine you can swap it out and use that to tinker with. If it breaks or is a gas hog or problematic you can always put back in old reliable. To many people get a nice old basicaly stock VW and start changing things and run out of money or break something expensive and then the car sits and gets sold at a loss. These old VWs are no longer cheap to own or keep running. It's a money pit. Keep your alive and wait a year or more before going overboard. Super beetles are known to problems with the universal joint on the steering shaft located under the fuel tank. You can't see it from below but you will have play in the steering. Remove the gas tank and have a look. The sold 20 million VW's because people liked them and they were reliable in stock form. Every where I go people always want to share the story's of the family beetle that there family or friends had when they were growing up. Have fun with it.
Maybe get some big bore Zoomie exhaust tips if you want to change the sound. Aftermarket exhaust usually drag on everything and rust away. They never have the proper intake manifold heat that is needed for centermount carbs.
@@TheEZGZ now that is some excellent advice i really didn't think of ( "start going to swap meets and start piecing together a build engine on the side") I think that is exactly what i will do. 1. It will help me learn more about the car, while i am enjoying it. 2. It wont break the bank. 3. Half the fun for me is the thrill of the hunt (hunt for parts). I love wheeling and dealing and cars so that is a win win for me. Excellent idea. You are right, i have had the car for maybe a week now and i would say about 14 guys at work that have seen it have had some family story about one. Thank you for the sound advice!
great video. add checking cam lift at the rockers to your build list. 2239 I am told by a old time VW guy is a great cam that should last you. very long time.
Thanks for your support. The main difference is the 107 lobe center vs the more common 108 used on performance 1.1 cams. So many variables. Thats what fascinates me about VW engines
great video.please make a video how to mesure lift and etc of a camshaft when its new when its worn. i am sure that thousands of vw owners would be very very gratfullll !!!
I've ALWAYS used Chrome Moly when using performance cam with HD springs. This is a test to see if my sand buddy's way will work for me. When stock get noisey you better check them. The steel ends start going into the aluminum. I've seen it but the explaination was that they let them get loose. I'm trying it at .004
Thanks for your support. I just tell it like it happens. The nice thing about running everything I build is that I get the whole story even if it isn't always the best. I don't hide anything, even if its my fault.
Hi I’m building a 2110 engine for my t2 westfalia Could you please tell me what cam and rockers I need that will be good on hills. I have Dellorto 40s and 004 heads. I have a Engle w120 to go in but can change it if you advise otherwise. Many thanks phil.
I think the w120 is a bad choice for t2 westy. You need a lot of compression and really good gas. It will cook quick in the fat Westy. Quit thinking high HP bug engine for racing and think torque to pull weight at lower RPM and live a long time. Your carbs and heads are fine. Use Heavy duty springs and valve train. The Engle W120 is a Hot Street VW Bug camshaft grind is designed for 1.1 or 1.25 rockers, and it's specs are .397" Cam Lift, .435" Valve Lift (1.1 Rockers), 294 degrees of advertised duration, and 253 degrees of duration at .050", on a 108 Lobe Center. WIth more duration and slightly more lift than it's little brother the W110, this cam is designed to give more power at the top end while sacrificing low end. You can not use this with a stock carburetor, it will barely idle well with dual 1bbls or a centermount 2bbls. You really need at least dual 2bbls of carb for this cam to behave at idle and under 1500 RPM. This cam really needs some port work and/or larger displacement to work properly. Expect a powerband of 2000-6000 RPMs, the more headwork and carburetion the better the low end will be. If you use 1.25 rockers, you will extend the top end to 6300 or so. Dual springs are required with 1.1s or 1.25 rockers. Use a compression ratio of 8.75-9.5:1.
EZ If I have stock rockers and use Swivel feet ( I hear They are quieter) will I need to change the push rods for longer ones. How do I figure for shims? Or should I just keep the regular stock adjusters. Thanks for every time you answer EZ.
The swivel feet usually come with shims. Usually a .040 or .060 shim under each rocker stand is all you need. Flat tappet cams are just noisy. Go with .004 valve lash instead of .006 if using chrome moly pushrods go Zero but check them way more often
Mr. EZGZ I had N#2 rocker shaft bolt and washer back all the way off on my 1978 Karmann Super Beetle. I bolted it back up. Would you use some Locktite on them? To keep that from happening again? Thanks
whew... let me ask you because I have seen a lot of your vid and I believe you know. I am building (Assembling) my motor. 1600 change piston to 94mm and replace the cam with Engle 120. Is there a need for me to make any changes on the stock rocker assy?
Yes!!! Please tell me more about your engine. Is everything else stock? Crankshaft, flywheel,connecting rods, cylinder heads what are you using for Carburetor? Have you calculated your compression yet? Give me what info you can and we will go from there OK? One last thing. How are you planning on using this engine?
The Engle W120 is a Hot Street VW Bug camshaft grind is designed for 1.1 or 1.25 rockers, and it's specs are .397" Cam Lift, .435" Valve Lift (1.1 Rockers), 294 degrees of advertised duration, and 253 degrees of duration at .050", on a 108 Lobe Center. WIth more duration and slightly more lift than it's little brother the W110, this cam is designed to give more power at the top end while sacrificing low end. You can not use this with a stock carburetor, it will barely idle well with dual 1bbls or a centermount 2bbls. You really need at least dual 2bbls of carb for this cam to behave at idle and under 1500 RPM. This cam really needs some port work and/or larger displacement to work properly. Expect a powerband of 2000-6000 RPMs, the more headwork and carburetion the better the low end will be. If you use 1.25 rockers, you will extend the top end to 6300 or so. Dual springs are required with 1.1s or 1.25 rockers. Use a compression ratio of 8.75-9.5:1.
@@TheEZGZ Crankshaft, flywheel, connecting rods, are all stock. Cylinder heads was cut to fit the bigger (94mm) cylinders and I will run dual kadron H40/44 Carbs and using a Engle 120 cam I am working on the compression now. the deck height was .108 so I send the cylinder to be cut down by .058 I will get them today and I am thinking that should put me at about 8.5:1 - 8.7:1. I want to say under 9-1 . I want to put the motor in my” Saturday night don’t act like you want to race me” car. Lol If I can beat them across the intersection I am happy So are you saying that I can use the stock rocker assembly? I am using this project to learn a little more have a little fun. In the future I will learn to weld and maybe add a turbo. Learning to weld will give me save some cash time
You have top use a test adjustable pushrod and set it 90 degree's at 1/2 lift. That is your length. I can't give you a length because there are many variables depending on shims and cam and head space. www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=6_212
I had my heads rebuild ( mofoco ) stock type 4. Scat C 25. Hydraulic lifters pasengers side there is plenty of clearance to adjust valves but drivers side the arm touches the springs would rocker arm shims fix this
Yes but you don't want to change your rocker arm geometry to much as it will wear out your valve guides. To be honest I have know personal experience with Type 4. I just know they are similar and expensive. You can possibly grind a small spot on the bottom of the rocker arm if it looks beefy. I hope you like that C25 as much as I do.
$$$$$ yes if you include dual carbs and header exhaust. Expect less MPG but a little more pep and running premium fuel $$$$ if you want to play you got to pay
Would you recommend 1.25 or 1.4 for a stock 1600dp turbo? I bought the engine used and I’m pretty sure it’s a stocker. My buddy has a 1835 and it makes so much more power it’s not funny
@@thegobblerproject2363 I'm not well versed in Turbo talk. All I know is that they make about 30% more power than what you already have at 7lbs of boost. You also need to limit your spark advance to around 27 degrees at full boost. You don't want to do that by just backing off your distributor cause then it won't idle. You have to get a special dizzy. The more the boost the more the power that = HEAT which shortens the life of a VW and kills it. Stock 16dp are cheap so a lot of guys just run the piss out of them with a turbo and get another engine. Chalk it up to the cost of having fun. vwparts.aircooled.net/Turbomania-Turbocharging-the-VW-Engine-p/turbomania.htm
I was thinking about that. It was all ordered at the same time. Someone might have thought they were doing me a favor and in some respects it's ok. Can't wait to fire it up and check the seat of the pants meter.
Thank you. I have bought a engine from a guy thinking it was a 2054 and upon checking its not. I wasn’t sure how to figure what ratio rocker arms I had and you shed some light on that.I appreciate the time you take to make your videos to help newbies like myself.
My rig lost a rod bearing. After taking it apart I learned she bought me a baja with a 1835 thick wall that has a 110 cam. I'm now turning it into a 1968. And I'm going to be using this video for the rocker arm set up. Ty ezgz
Sounds great if your using dual carbs. Best of luck with your project.
100 cam not 110.
Been looking at carbs. Not sure on that pic yet.
Thanks for posting! This answered a lot of questions. I got a set of EMPI HD rocker assembly's and the swivel feet really threw off my geometry, I was reluctant to add shims until you took the time to explain it. Thank you!
I love how many different variations of the same vehicles you build. It makes it very entertaining and informative to learn what parts work well together.
I don't think I will live long enough to try them all.
Dude I'm watching your videos that help so much being new to vw
The elephant rockers from CB require pre-lubing by soaking them in engine oil before installation or they will wear out just as you described. The original Porsche adjusters of this design seem to be NLA. They used to cost $100.00 per set.
I agree with you about the quality control of part's that companies have made elsewhere. Hard to find good quality part's that are made right.
Excellent video!!!! this is the reason i mark everything after i tighten it...sometimes life happens...
I'm becoming a believer in your methods although there is no doubt I had it in and torqued correctly. Over the last few years and several thousands of miles I just beat the thing to submission. One stud on the other side broke during disassembly as well. Making some changes and might crack the case for a look see. I want to put it in the Baja and put a few miles on it first as well as monitor oil pressure over different conditions. Not sure I trust those stock pushrods with heavy duty springs. Stock pressure is 130 @ installed height vs 175 HD single. I've been watching you go around and around with Comp Cams......... Like you say: Life happens.....
With my CB-Performance Elephant Feet Adjusters I had one that kept needing valve adjustments but after about 10,000 miles they settled down and I am still running them.
Good info!! Thanks for sharing it!
I'm with you mate if your going to build an engine you have to stay focused on what you are doing. i have an engine that i am collecting parts for and I'm not going to start it till i have all the bits for it. that will be an interesting video to do later.
have a great day
mark
Thanks Mark. Looking forward to your build.
Never know about parts these days . Just had a go around with a V belt . had the right part numbers for the truck , but they had the wrong belt listed . The other parts store had the right one
Sad but true. To many people trying to rush and multi task. Not to mention many involved in the products don't speak, read or write the English language
the 2239 seems to be much like a stock cam but the lift of the 1.4 ratio rockers already included. the W-100 being another close example. keep compression close to stock maybe 8.0 as it adds just a dab of duration. ratio rockers with that cam probably did in your studs. change the other side with new while your disassembled for piece of mind. consider the damage done. should still be great motor after your done.
calm down and watch again. 2239 is only a guess as it's not marked. CB does not usually advertise to sell Engle brand cams. Stock is .334 lift. The 2239 with 1.1 is .aprox .418 NOT recommended for 1.4 at all. My measured lift was .530. Not to worry about the studs. I replaced both heads with new ones with 55cc volume as mentioned. There was metal on the drain magnet but hopefully the full flow oil filter caught the rest. Stay tuned and thanks for the input. Start up and testing coming soon.
+TheEZGZ no problem here all calm. but your suspect camshaft with 1.4 rockers is .530 lift. so very very good guess. only thing anxious about is hearing how she runs when done. should still be a hoot.
Engle was only mentioned as a similar to 2239 Eagle camshaft. Keep up the great videos.
Most informative dude. I like to look at my parts when I am purchasing, I'm not near that smart and will be staying near the stock configuration. Thank for all the valuable information. VW:-)
CB is a great company. Been buying from them for years and will continue but you can bet I will be checking everything a little closer.
What can you expect when running a set of 1.4 life rockers on a stock cam? Is it basically the equivalent of having a performance cam? I have a stock 1600 and am looking to do a few upgrades and the 1.4 rockers is one I am looking at but know very little about them.
When doing the 1.4 rockers other then the upgraded pushrods is there anything else you suggest to add with the 1.4?
1.4 ratio rockers, dual carbs and free flowing exhaust will really wake up a 1600 Dual port with stock cam. The more head work the better it will run. Heavy duty springs are required and dual springs would be recommended. Dual 40 kadrons would be a good choice in carbs along mechanical advance dizzy. Do not take Pushrod length as a casual matter. In fact I would not recommend it at all unless your engine is in perfect condition. You will need to remove the engine and remove the heads along with pushrod tubes to do this correctly. If valve geometry is not perfect it will have a short life. It will run better even if you don't get it right. "For a While" Pay close attention to valve spring height blah blah blah. 1.25 ratio rockers would be more forgiving if your not experienced. As a matter of fact it's a lot easier to go with stock rockers on solid shafts with heavy duty single valve springs. The dual carbs and free flowing exhaust will make you smile over the stock 1600 DP. I can't recommend where to find parts as most of it available today is junk.
@@TheEZGZ Thank you very much for the detailed advice. I am fairly experienced in the automotive world but the VWs air cooled are new to me. I just got my 71 Super Beetle less then a week ago. I love to get my hands dirty and learn as much as I can.
With that, in the distant future I woudnt mind trying to do my own rebuild but for now I just want to give it a little more pep.
So If I am hearing you right, I should go with the 1.25 rockers, dual carbs and a free flow Exhaust for a good start? For a stock 1600cc what would be a good dual carb that will work on the stock 1600cc but with room to grow ( I.E bigger jets, etc...) if I do a cam and heads in the future?
Also what are your top 3 free flow exhaust options that don't break the bank ($250-$300 lol or less)
thank you for taking the time to answer
@@johnnyturbo8460 I have this conversation quiet frequently with folks. After 30 years of tinkering with these engines I have to say that the stock engine is what it is. The version you have started out as a 1300 SP and ended up as the 1600DP If your engine runs good, I suggest you leave it alone and enjoy the car as is. Keep watching vids and going to swap meets and find a club in your area. Listen, Listen, Listen. Everyone likes to talk about there cars. Watch and see who has problems and why. Watch to see who has lot's of problems and the trouble they have keeping it running well. People always want more power and they build bigger engines and even after getting it running well they want more. But that takes money. Sometimes these guys will sell you there old upgraded engine to finance there new dream engine. They might make you a really good deal if your a friend. The other way to go is keep your car as it is and slowly start gathering parts for your own project engine. There is a lot of use performance stuff out there. If you build the complete separate engine you can swap it out and use that to tinker with. If it breaks or is a gas hog or problematic you can always put back in old reliable.
To many people get a nice old basicaly stock VW and start changing things and run out of money or break something expensive and then the car sits and gets sold at a loss. These old VWs are no longer cheap to own or keep running. It's a money pit. Keep your alive and wait a year or more before going overboard. Super beetles are known to problems with the universal joint on the steering shaft located under the fuel tank. You can't see it from below but you will have play in the steering. Remove the gas tank and have a look. The sold 20 million VW's because people liked them and they were reliable in stock form. Every where I go people always want to share the story's of the family beetle that there family or friends had when they were growing up. Have fun with it.
Maybe get some big bore Zoomie exhaust tips if you want to change the sound. Aftermarket exhaust usually drag on everything and rust away. They never have the proper intake manifold heat that is needed for centermount carbs.
@@TheEZGZ now that is some excellent advice i really didn't think of ( "start going to swap meets and start piecing together a build engine on the side")
I think that is exactly what i will do.
1. It will help me learn more about the car, while i am enjoying it.
2. It wont break the bank.
3. Half the fun for me is the thrill of the hunt (hunt for parts). I love wheeling and dealing and cars so that is a win win for me.
Excellent idea.
You are right, i have had the car for maybe a week now and i would say about 14 guys at work that have seen it have had some family story about one.
Thank you for the sound advice!
great video. add checking cam lift at the rockers to your build list. 2239 I am told by a old time VW guy is a great cam that should last you. very long time.
Thanks for your support. The main difference is the 107 lobe center vs the more common 108 used on performance 1.1 cams. So many variables. Thats what fascinates me about VW engines
Thanks Thomas. I hope your friend is right.
great video.please make a video how to mesure lift and etc of a camshaft when its new when its worn. i am sure that thousands of vw owners would be very very gratfullll !!!
I will give it a try. Thank you kindly for your input.
Thanks for posting yet another informative video.
I try. Thanks for your Support
you always make good "info" vids. I think I am going to try my aluminum rods. I heard chromoly are noisy?
I've ALWAYS used Chrome Moly when using performance cam with HD springs. This is a test to see if my sand buddy's way will work for me. When stock get noisey you better check them. The steel ends start going into the aluminum. I've seen it but the explaination was that they let them get loose. I'm trying it at .004
Thanks for sharing EZ, great information and pointers!
Thanks for your support. I just tell it like it happens. The nice thing about running everything I build is that I get the whole story even if it isn't always the best. I don't hide anything, even if its my fault.
Hi I’m building a 2110 engine for my t2 westfalia
Could you please tell me what cam and rockers I need that will be good on hills. I have Dellorto 40s and 004 heads. I have a Engle w120 to go in but can change it if you advise otherwise.
Many thanks phil.
I think the w120 is a bad choice for t2 westy. You need a lot of compression and really good gas. It will cook quick in the fat Westy. Quit thinking high HP bug engine for racing and think torque to pull weight at lower RPM and live a long time. Your carbs and heads are fine. Use Heavy duty springs and valve train.
The Engle W120 is a Hot Street VW Bug camshaft grind is designed for 1.1 or 1.25 rockers, and it's specs are .397" Cam Lift, .435" Valve Lift (1.1 Rockers), 294 degrees of advertised duration, and 253 degrees of duration at .050", on a 108 Lobe Center.
WIth more duration and slightly more lift than it's little brother the W110, this cam is designed to give more power at the top end while sacrificing low end. You can not use this with a stock carburetor, it will barely idle well with dual 1bbls or a centermount 2bbls. You really need at least dual 2bbls of carb for this cam to behave at idle and under 1500 RPM.
This cam really needs some port work and/or larger displacement to work properly. Expect a powerband of 2000-6000 RPMs, the more headwork and carburetion the better the low end will be. If you use 1.25 rockers, you will extend the top end to 6300 or so.
Dual springs are required with 1.1s or 1.25 rockers. Use a compression ratio of 8.75-9.5:1.
Do you think I should put stock rockers and cam for my Westy 2110 ? I just want it good up hills.
Many thanks phil
@@wolves356 Yes, Stock Rockers with solid rockershafts and heavy duty springs, chrome moly retainers and keepers.
EZ If I have stock rockers and use Swivel feet ( I hear They are quieter) will I need to change the push rods for longer ones.
How do I figure for shims? Or should I just keep the regular stock adjusters. Thanks for every time you answer EZ.
The swivel feet usually come with shims. Usually a .040 or .060 shim under each rocker stand is all you need. Flat tappet cams are just noisy. Go with .004 valve lash instead of .006 if using chrome moly pushrods go Zero but check them way more often
Mr. EZGZ I had N#2 rocker shaft bolt and washer back all the way off on my 1978 Karmann Super Beetle. I bolted it back up. Would you use some Locktite on them? To keep that from happening again? Thanks
Never heard of that before. I just use the stock wave washer and thats what i'm sticking with.
performance rockers what is the best ones too use and does it help with performance?
vwparts.aircooled.net/category-s/878.htm
whew... let me ask you because I have seen a lot of your vid and I believe you know. I am building (Assembling) my motor. 1600 change piston to 94mm and replace the cam with Engle 120. Is there a need for me to make any changes on the stock rocker assy?
Yes!!! Please tell me more about your engine. Is everything else stock? Crankshaft, flywheel,connecting rods, cylinder heads what are you using for Carburetor? Have you calculated your compression yet? Give me what info you can and we will go from there OK? One last thing. How are you planning on using this engine?
The Engle W120 is a Hot Street VW Bug camshaft grind is designed for 1.1 or 1.25 rockers, and it's specs are .397" Cam Lift, .435" Valve Lift (1.1 Rockers), 294 degrees of advertised duration, and 253 degrees of duration at .050", on a 108 Lobe Center.
WIth more duration and slightly more lift than it's little brother the W110, this cam is designed to give more power at the top end while sacrificing low end. You can not use this with a stock carburetor, it will barely idle well with dual 1bbls or a centermount 2bbls. You really need at least dual 2bbls of carb for this cam to behave at idle and under 1500 RPM.
This cam really needs some port work and/or larger displacement to work properly. Expect a powerband of 2000-6000 RPMs, the more headwork and carburetion the better the low end will be. If you use 1.25 rockers, you will extend the top end to 6300 or so.
Dual springs are required with 1.1s or 1.25 rockers. Use a compression ratio of 8.75-9.5:1.
carcraftstore.com/highperformancesolidrockershafts.aspx
also watch this vid. skip to about 20 minutes in ua-cam.com/video/9rjBJxOosUw/v-deo.html
@@TheEZGZ
Crankshaft, flywheel, connecting rods, are all stock. Cylinder heads was cut to fit the bigger (94mm) cylinders and I will run dual kadron H40/44 Carbs and using a Engle 120 cam
I am working on the compression now. the deck height was .108 so I send the cylinder to be cut down by .058 I will get them today and I am thinking that should put me at about 8.5:1 - 8.7:1. I want to say under 9-1 . I want to put the motor in my” Saturday night don’t act like you want to race me” car. Lol If I can beat them across the intersection I am happy
So are you saying that I can use the stock rocker assembly?
I am using this project to learn a little more have a little fun. In the future I will learn to weld and maybe add a turbo. Learning to weld will give me save some cash time
Hello I want to know how much do I have to cut the longer push rods with a 1.25 rocker arms and 110 Engle camshaft?
You have top use a test adjustable pushrod and set it 90 degree's at 1/2 lift. That is your length. I can't give you a length because there are many variables depending on shims and cam and head space.
www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=6_212
I had my heads rebuild ( mofoco ) stock type 4. Scat C 25. Hydraulic lifters pasengers side there is plenty of clearance to adjust valves but drivers side the arm touches the springs would rocker arm shims fix this
Yes but you don't want to change your rocker arm geometry to much as it will wear out your valve guides. To be honest I have know personal experience with Type 4. I just know they are similar and expensive. You can possibly grind a small spot on the bottom of the rocker arm if it looks beefy. I hope you like that C25 as much as I do.
Would there be any performance gains on a stock 1600 dp by adding higher ratio rockers?
$$$$$ yes if you include dual carbs and header exhaust. Expect less MPG but a little more pep and running premium fuel $$$$ if you want to play you got to pay
TheEZGZ not worried about the mpg it’s a sand rail I just set a turbo up on but the engine it self is pretty stock.
@@thegobblerproject2363 With a turbo I think ratio rockers would help but if you use a center mount carb it will idle ruff.
Would you recommend 1.25 or 1.4 for a stock 1600dp turbo? I bought the engine used and I’m pretty sure it’s a stocker. My buddy has a 1835 and it makes so much more power it’s not funny
@@thegobblerproject2363 I'm not well versed in Turbo talk. All I know is that they make about 30% more power than what you already have at 7lbs of boost. You also need to limit your spark advance to around 27 degrees at full boost. You don't want to do that by just backing off your distributor cause then it won't idle. You have to get a special dizzy. The more the boost the more the power that = HEAT which shortens the life of a VW and kills it. Stock 16dp are cheap so a lot of guys just run the piss out of them with a turbo and get another engine. Chalk it up to the cost of having fun. vwparts.aircooled.net/Turbomania-Turbocharging-the-VW-Engine-p/turbomania.htm
Hi
one question
where can i get the rollers rockers for vw sedan?
The shafts are drilled off center on others changing ratio also.
I’ve seen that done as well.
Cool video, great to know stuff!
Not so great when I have to pay for the mistakes though. It's more gooder to watch and learn from others mistakes. LOL Stay tunned for a drive vid.
ez can you recommend a professional engine rebuilder and tuner in orange county?
fatperformance.com/home/
thank you! blessings
great info buddy
I try ;-)
Good catch. Watch them parts suppliers they tend not to stock many stock cams. They will sent you what ever if they can get away with it.
I was thinking about that. It was all ordered at the same time. Someone might have thought they were doing me a favor and in some respects it's ok. Can't wait to fire it up and check the seat of the pants meter.
First time I ever ordered a stock cam. It must be a sign to kick it up a notch. LOL
+TheEZGZ stock cam must mean " whats in stock" lol
LOL
Wow thanks lots to take in for a new be. But thanks
There are a lot of options out there and many combinations just don't work for every application.
lol had to re sub again darn you tube
Well. Welcome back. Have Virtual burrito my friend. hehehe
I wish EZ was my Dad.
No you don't, Now go clean your room and take out the trash. LOL
@@TheEZGZ haha
Sure dad, and I will meet you in the garage, we need to finish my motor build!😉