Huayna Potosi - the summit ridge to remember
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- The summit ridge of Huayna Potosí provided a spectacular finish to this climb. The snow at the top is too narrow for pickets, and too soft for ice screws. If someone falls the only recourse is, hopefully, to jump off the other side in time - in other words "watch you step!"
We reached the summit at 7:15am June 1st, 2017. I wish I had adjusted my helmet and the camera a bit differently but given that I was in rental gear, at 6,000+ meters, it was -18°C, and pitch dark I'm just glad it recorded at all. Special thanks to our guide William and High Camp for a safe and enjoyable climb.
See more travel stories at www.scottdusek.com
Wow, no room for mistakes on that ridge!They promote that as a beginner climb but after watching this I cant imagine a beginner making that their first climb 😮Thanks for sharing
Funny you should mention that. This was my girlfriend first ever mountain climb. She is roped up in front of me in the video. This trip was her first time putting on crampons and using an ice axe. She is very afraid of heights.
This is definitely not an ideal trip for beginners, but it is doable if you are fit and motivated. I have lots of mountaineering experience, and she and I both speak Spanish, so between me and the guide we were able to coax her along some pep-talks. It was, by a pretty big margin, the most physically challenging experience of her life.
It's a three day thing. Day one you drive in, do a little top-roped ice climbing and practice self arrest. Day two you go to the second hut, which was around 17,500ft I think. Day three you summit and come all the way down. The last day is a TON of effort and both of us were totally spent by the time we got back to La Paz.
I felt very lucky that we got William as our guide. He was willing to leave a little earlier than most of the other groups and was tolerant of Val's slower than ideal pace. A few rope teams turned around, but we kept going and the summit was sweet! I'll never forget the summit ridge, it was beautiful but it was also an extended "NO MISTAKES" zone.
@@duseks Congratulations to both of you. Its a great accomplishment!
Great video, thanks for uploading. I did this walk in 2011, it was a hell of an adventure. That climb was intense, I had 2 climbers and 2 guides with me. One climber had a seizure a couple hundred meters below this but managed to carry on. The other climber told us on the peak that she had kidney disease and that her body couldn't go on, she and her stuff had to mostly be carried down. Thankfully we had the best damn guide there was on that trip. I wish I remembered his name.
Many thanks Scott for uploading this great video "Huayna Potosí - the summit ridge to remember"!...This is my very first time to see and hear this excellent material!...I´ve spent a very entertained 15:43 minutes!...GREAT CONTRIBUTION!...Mountaineer greetings from Santiago, CHILE! PS: Please you continue uploading great mountaineering videos like this one that I will see/listen them attentively here in South America.
was that the French line?
Witch face did you do? Sur
Aardig heuveltje maar valt in het niet bij onze Vaalserberg. Over zo'n rand lopen? Nee dank u wel, geef mijn portie maar aan Fikkie
Hey there, awesome video. What was the hardest section of the climb?
Whoa! I hope to go down there next July and I'm ok with exposure but that looks kinda spicy. Whats the average angle on that ridge top and what's the overall elevation gain and distance on that exposed part?
I guess after the 12 minute mark I see my answer. Congrats! For a first trip I'll stick to Austria, Acotango and Parinacota. Who if anyone did you use as a guide and how did you like them?
Well that is definitely quite a ways from the the summit of QA. Hit me up!