I would like to tell you an idea. I am a dental technician and we use silicon as well for making doublicates. Of cause we have mixing machines which produce no bubbles, but when that thing is not working or you obviously don‘t have one there is another way to make fairly bubble free casts. You mix it up really well and then instead of pouring it in a thick flow (as seen in the video) you let it in, in a very thin string. You achive that by holding the cup prob. ~40cm above the stuff you want to fill. The higher the better. By that you eliminate quite a few bubbles and in my expirience get very good results. On youtube I see it quite a lot that people let it in from really short distances. That is of cause less of a problem if you have a vacuum! :) greetings from germany sorry for grammar and spelling :D
Matey you never cease to amaze me how friggin awesome your coins and small castings come out, I struggle pouring a square block doorstop and your pumpin these things out like an absolute professional, my hats off to you Geoff well done as usual👏🏻😁🍻🍻🍻🇦🇺😁👌🏻👍🏻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻
@@vogman Oh yeah, now I need to revisit some of your reviews and add a resin printer to the arsenal. FDM just isn't "putting up" the results I want anymore
As always thanks! I've been looking at the whole sand/wax/print concepts and while I've started down the sand road a few times I'm still very interested in the wax one just for what seems "ease". Will be interesting to see what you find out is the max size you can do on injection molding with this system. Can you double the size, triple, quadruple, etc. At what point can it no longer push the wax far enough out. Some of that may be offset by prewarming your mold too. Very interesting product though.
Great video Geoff! Looks like Arbe makes some very good gear. I agree about how the resin test pieces came out. To my eyes the Phrozen 4K definitely looks sharper, with more depth to the letters and other details. The Vogger coins came out looking very nice indeed! Well done again!
@@vogman first project (believe it or not) is a 28mm scale copy of Waterloo La Haye Sainte for a friend. after that it will be vintage car parts, (steering wheel cowlings, larger composite structures etc that the SL1 is unable to print in a single piece)
What's the use case though? You said it wasn't that large, so large repeated molds wouldn't be the target market. If they're small like those coins you made, they looked like you could easily pump out 10-20 per plate on a resin printer, which means you can be doing other things while they're printing instead of running the manual wax process. Maybe if you had a ton of molds so you could do a full vat of wax, then leave it to heat more while you move on to prepping the patterns you've just made. It looks like a sturdy unit, and the vac station would be useful for the mold degassing, but in the age of resin printers, especially bigger ones like the saturn & phenom, (unless there's something I'm missing) I see it being a redundant appliance. Feel free to school me :)
Wax has some major advantage I can see - cost, its less faff with safety gear, and takes much less time. The printer will take some hours, the post print bath and cure yet more time, all of which you have to do every time you want to make another duplicate! The wax mould means a handful of mins to inject, let cool and remove so you can quickly generate days worth of casting time all without using up relatively expensive resins, IPA, gloves etc..
Everyone has their own idea of what's best and I'm still very inexperienced with Wax, but this is how I see it. Castable resin isn't cheap. I printed a few small items the other day and ChiTuBox valued the print at £7 worth. This might not seem that bad and for me for one-off projects it isn't. But a bag of wax flakes costs much the same and can produce dozens of similar waxes, making it much cheaper per item, but to do that you need a silicone mold. These silicones aren't cheap, pushing the cost of wax production up again. Can you see the ups and downs here? So it a nutshell, one-off pieces, printing with castable resin is cheaper. But if you're mass producing something, maybe a ring or a pendant, then a wax mold can create hundreds for pennies in comparisons. I hope that made my logic a little clearer.
Ability to remelt failed wax castings is another plus. The whole printable wax resin thing seems very hit and miss, TBH. Maybe for one-offs and hobby use, but for anything serious I'd stick with the print-clean-mold-wax system.
vog can you share the stl for the mold to make around the coin? would love to print some mold for coins and if you could make a mold for rings would be awesome !
Always felt you was happier with wax casting, like it was more completion with the project. Would you be happy with a magic machine where with just with a mere thought, would pop out cast items by the score?
@@vogman lol I have just started making silicone moulds from resin prints and really pleased with how well it works. now to sit and edit all the footage.
after a long chat with christine at phrozen, going to buy the sonic 4k mini even if it has a smaller build than a shuffle xl lite. Phrozen's communication is excellent.
Communication and support are critical in my mind. A company that ignores its customers deserves to lose them. I think you'll be happy with your decision 😁👍
@@vogman Agreed: I have nothing against Anycubic, but I have a system on any major investment I always send a pre-sales email enquiry and i sent one to Phrozen and Anycubic (think i posted a copy of it here) . AnyCubic ignored me not once but twice. I have nothing against Anycubic, however i judge a company on their communication-even if the product is slightly inferior to the other . VOG I agree The Antycubic MONO X is a great product, but their communication sucks, so I am going for the Phrozen Resin for a small printing then going FDM for the larger stuff. Both emails were sent on the back of your recommendations , told Phrozen about your brilliant comprehensive review. (not meaning to suck up mind-just thought you might get some more stuff to review from Phrozen if people are buying based upon your reviews).
Nice one. I use the Castaldo VLT with an Arbe Vulcanizer so much easier than making molds. Now if they could only make a castable resin that works like wax.
Hi sr, i been trying to make molds from resin models using castaldo liquacast, but ended up with problems on the molds at the detailed areas, i see you used vlt rubber how does that work for you?
@@Qdominic7uQ9 Hi, I find it a lot more convenient than liquid molds and easier to use than liquacast you will need a vulcanizer but for 3d printed molds the low temp works well I also use mold release with it www.castaldo.com/vlt-very-low-temperature-silicone-molding-rubber/
Just as you saw it in this video my friend. Weigh out the two components, mix very well, pour into the mold and then vacuum. Once the silicone has risen and fallen, all the bubbles have gone. Then just leave it 24 hours. You get a perfect mold without flaws 😁
I think creating a complete model with multiple coins on a sprew and gate tree and printing it with jewelers wax resin makes this product moot and decreases the number of casting steps; just the sprewed and gated print into your mold flask, seal with tape as usual, fill with investment, use your vacuum chamber, burnout, and pour in your molten metal. Loads easier than creating a whole other mold for creating wax patterns, plus far less waste!
I wondered that as well. I believe the idea is that it's forced out through the joins it the silicone. If you prevent this, it can spoil the wax and if you allow it too much, you get a halo of wax. Like everything else, it a case of practice makes perfect 😊
That's a classic style of solid machine. Who says they don't make 'em like they used to? Simple switch and heating light indicator. Metal throughout. Could have been made 50 years ago save for the modern temperature controls and digital input /display. 👍
They didn't have any... gasp! 😉😁 No, no film, but it was VERY well packaged. Lots of cardboard and injected-foam-in-a-bag to take up all the voids, hold things snugly and keep them safe. I think with Arbe, making things stronger than average comes as standard 😊
Finding enough time in the day to do everything I want to do is a real problem for me, but I'm always happy to answer questions. You can email me any time via www.vegoilguy.co.uk/contact_general.php 👍👍👍
Amazing results as always. Where can I find a Voggers anonymous meeting? haha. I'm having a crack at using brown microcrystalline wax, it's apparently good for making hollow sculptures. Ever used it before?
If you're using the candle wax as a casting wax, I would guess it would work, but I thinks there will be some sooty deposits left behind. This won't necessarily spoil the integrity of your gears, but it will probably spoil the finish a little. So there may be some surface imperfections, but hopefully it will work for you.
in my experience, paraffin wax tends to shrink a lot when cooling. Even when you use the proper injection wax, it can shrink if it's heated too much. You might need to play with your wax temperature: just hot enough to fill the mold well, but not so hot that it it causes shrinkage voids when cooling.
this is all nice & very pretty but in ancient times they didn't have all of that & they still did it, all of does machine are getting very expensive for just a hobby, what would be very awesome is finding out how they used to do it whit out the burning oven cause I don't have 3000$ to spare + 1500 for the casting machine plus the wax injector & all of the tools
I totally agree! Haven't you seen my earlier videos where I made my own burnout oven, vacuum chamber, etc. It's worth looking at them. Have a look at this video... I'm pretty sure in it I describe everything you need plus my own cheaper builds to keep the costs down. ua-cam.com/video/qxj5eUkAFUI/v-deo.html I started this hobby with a budget of pennies and folks told me I couldn't do it without thousands. I'm pleased to say I proved them wrong. But as with all hobbies, it's nice to look at what else is available.
There's been experimental archaeologists who have played with creating cast objects with nothing more than wax, clay, cloth, and fire. exarc.net/issue-2018-4/at/viking-jewellery-mould-making-experimental-and-reconstructive-aspects If the link doesn't work, search article title "Viking Jewellery Mould Making. Experimental and Reconstructive Aspects". I've found this one very interesting.
Impossible to say... it's down to what you buy and what price you can get it for. This video should give you an idea of the equipment you need. A little research and shopping around will do the rest - ua-cam.com/video/qxj5eUkAFUI/v-deo.html
Actually the plan is to monopolise all the worlds printing and casting equipment, and then I can sell it back at extortionate prices. Mind you if I did, I'd probably still make a loss 😀😄😁
Hi Jeff, and thanks for all of your great, fun and entertaining videos :), I always learn something when watching your work. I wonder is it possible to make plastic molds through casting? I know lost wax casting and plastic are different topics, but it would be very helpful experiment to see the possibility. Can you please show us, if possible, printing a mold of a jewelry or something else, using resin(Wax) or FDM (PLA) printer, and then making an aluminum cast out of it?, to see how efficient it can be for plastic injection molding, or maybe for wax molding?. I've been searching for such video for a long time, and I couldn't find anyone using such technique. the majority uses CNC for making molds, but if this works, think how cool that would be!
Hi Bacel. That's an interesting idea. Personally I have no experience at all with plastic injection moulding. I'll add this to my list of things to look at one day soon. So many fun ideas and projects... so little time 😁👍👍👍
there are many and they are generally very expensive, but this method is to use cheaper resins for a master allowing mass production at a lower overall cost
Adam Rudling I do not agree. The resin may be more expensive, but then you don’t have to buy silicone for the pattern mold, the injector, and the wax, which should be somewhat expensive for the superior casting qualities. And, having worked in a commercial foundry and seen this firsthand, a lot of mold waste taking up space and adding more junk to the planet.
@@FranklyWry the wax injection of moulds allows rapid ie seconds repetition of pieces at significantly reduced piece cost. Wax for injection is very cheap compared to 3d printer wax resin, in the order of a tenth the cost. Agreed there is extra cost and time involved in making a mould be it silicone or plaster, but these items recoup their cost very rapidly in a production environment. Also this allows you to cut the computer based side out totally if you want too.
I'm on your side, believe me. My pockets are very shallow. But it's nice to know what equipment is out there and how it works. That way we can make better decisions 👍😊
You can't blame Arbe for that one John, it was me. I normally say HONEST but forgot on this occasion. But that, of course, doesn't mean I wasn't being honest... 😁
I would like to tell you an idea. I am a dental technician and we use silicon as well for making doublicates. Of cause we have mixing machines which produce no bubbles, but when that thing is not working or you obviously don‘t have one there is another way to make fairly bubble free casts.
You mix it up really well and then instead of pouring it in a thick flow (as seen in the video) you let it in, in a very thin string. You achive that by holding the cup prob. ~40cm above the stuff you want to fill. The higher the better. By that you eliminate quite a few bubbles and in my expirience get very good results.
On youtube I see it quite a lot that people let it in from really short distances. That is of cause less of a problem if you have a vacuum! :)
greetings from germany
sorry for grammar and spelling :D
Thanks for sharing that. Personally I'm still very inexperienced in mold making so I'm always to listen to advice 😁👍
Huh is there a mixer which is contained in a vaccum chamber so no bouble is formed while mixing, you should probably try that out
the mixing machine that I am using at work costs roughly +1000€
Matey you never cease to amaze me how friggin awesome your coins and small castings come out, I struggle pouring a square block doorstop and your pumpin these things out like an absolute professional, my hats off to you Geoff well done as usual👏🏻😁🍻🍻🍻🇦🇺😁👌🏻👍🏻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻
Mate, it always makes me feel good to hear from you! You just keep rockin' out your amazing stuff!!!
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I see what you mean about the quality of the 4k resin! Top notch!
It's surprising isn't it...
@@vogman Oh yeah, now I need to revisit some of your reviews and add a resin printer to the arsenal. FDM just isn't "putting up" the results I want anymore
Cool little machine. Its always good to get to play with new toys. Looking forward to some of your future projects.
Exactly! Some like resins, some like wax, some like sand, etc. If we don't try, how can we say which we'd enjoy most 😁
another great video VOG. i must get some more silicon again. though making a vacuum chamber would be handy also. nice results matey.
Did you say vacuum chamber...? 😁😁😁
ua-cam.com/video/bv3tYR4ROBs/v-deo.html
As always thanks! I've been looking at the whole sand/wax/print concepts and while I've started down the sand road a few times I'm still very interested in the wax one just for what seems "ease". Will be interesting to see what you find out is the max size you can do on injection molding with this system. Can you double the size, triple, quadruple, etc. At what point can it no longer push the wax far enough out. Some of that may be offset by prewarming your mold too. Very interesting product though.
Great video Geoff! Looks like Arbe makes some very good gear. I agree about how the resin test pieces came out. To my eyes the Phrozen 4K definitely looks sharper, with more depth to the letters and other details. The Vogger coins came out looking very nice indeed! Well done again!
Thanks Dan. I was surprised what a difference a resin can make : )
Very nice, on my wish list! Just pulled the handle on the mono X!
Good choice! I predict ample sized busts it your near future!!!
😁👍👍👍
@@vogman first project (believe it or not) is a 28mm scale copy of Waterloo La Haye Sainte for a friend. after that it will be vintage car parts, (steering wheel cowlings, larger composite structures etc that the SL1 is unable to print in a single piece)
Always nice to watch your Videos Geoff!
Glad you like them! It's the intro that makes them 👍👍👍
Thanks for sharing! It looks fun to use.
Thanks for watching!
Might be more work, but apart from the advantage of serie work, it also takes away the need expensive castable resin and a burn out oven
hey! Thanks so much for making this video it was SO helpful. Do you ever find the temperature starts to get lower? Even when you've set it...
No... but I haven't used it since summer time...
What's the use case though?
You said it wasn't that large, so large repeated molds wouldn't be the target market. If they're small like those coins you made, they looked like you could easily pump out 10-20 per plate on a resin printer, which means you can be doing other things while they're printing instead of running the manual wax process. Maybe if you had a ton of molds so you could do a full vat of wax, then leave it to heat more while you move on to prepping the patterns you've just made.
It looks like a sturdy unit, and the vac station would be useful for the mold degassing, but in the age of resin printers, especially bigger ones like the saturn & phenom, (unless there's something I'm missing) I see it being a redundant appliance.
Feel free to school me :)
Wax has some major advantage I can see - cost, its less faff with safety gear, and takes much less time.
The printer will take some hours, the post print bath and cure yet more time, all of which you have to do every time you want to make another duplicate! The wax mould means a handful of mins to inject, let cool and remove so you can quickly generate days worth of casting time all without using up relatively expensive resins, IPA, gloves etc..
Everyone has their own idea of what's best and I'm still very inexperienced with Wax, but this is how I see it.
Castable resin isn't cheap. I printed a few small items the other day and ChiTuBox valued the print at £7 worth. This might not seem that bad and for me for one-off projects it isn't.
But a bag of wax flakes costs much the same and can produce dozens of similar waxes, making it much cheaper per item, but to do that you need a silicone mold. These silicones aren't cheap, pushing the cost of wax production up again.
Can you see the ups and downs here?
So it a nutshell, one-off pieces, printing with castable resin is cheaper. But if you're mass producing something, maybe a ring or a pendant, then a wax mold can create hundreds for pennies in comparisons.
I hope that made my logic a little clearer.
Everyone has their preferences, and that's as it should be 😁
Ability to remelt failed wax castings is another plus. The whole printable wax resin thing seems very hit and miss, TBH. Maybe for one-offs and hobby use, but for anything serious I'd stick with the print-clean-mold-wax system.
I always enjoy the videos
Thanks John : )
As always a very good honest review
Much appreciated 😁
vog can you share the stl for the mold to make around the coin? would love to print some mold for coins and if you could make a mold for rings would be awesome !
Always felt you was happier with wax casting, like it was more completion with the project.
Would you be happy with a magic machine where with just with a mere thought, would pop out cast items by the score?
I like the idea, but it takes away the fun of doing it 😊👍
Wow 54.2K subscribers! Well deserved.
Thank you so much 😀
Great video, starting to make me want to try lost wax casting now.
Smelly Cat? That's it... now I'm going to have Phoebe singing that song in my head all day 😁👍
@@vogman lol I have just started making silicone moulds from resin prints and really pleased with how well it works. now to sit and edit all the footage.
after a long chat with christine at phrozen, going to buy the sonic 4k mini even if it has a smaller build than a shuffle xl lite. Phrozen's communication is excellent.
Communication and support are critical in my mind. A company that ignores its customers deserves to lose them. I think you'll be happy with your decision 😁👍
@@vogman Agreed: I have nothing against Anycubic, but I have a system on any major investment I always send a pre-sales email enquiry and i sent one to Phrozen and Anycubic (think i posted a copy of it here) . AnyCubic ignored me not once but twice. I have nothing against Anycubic, however i judge a company on their communication-even if the product is slightly inferior to the other . VOG I agree The Antycubic MONO X is a great product, but their communication sucks, so I am going for the Phrozen Resin for a small printing then going FDM for the larger stuff. Both emails were sent on the back of your recommendations , told Phrozen about your brilliant comprehensive review. (not meaning to suck up mind-just thought you might get some more stuff to review from Phrozen if people are buying based upon your reviews).
Nice one. I use the Castaldo VLT with an Arbe Vulcanizer so much easier than making molds. Now if they could only make a castable resin that works like wax.
Hi sr, i been trying to make molds from resin models using castaldo liquacast, but ended up with problems on the molds at the detailed areas, i see you used vlt rubber how does that work for you?
@@Qdominic7uQ9 Hi, I find it a lot more convenient than liquid molds and easier to use than liquacast you will need a vulcanizer but for 3d printed molds the low temp works well I also use mold release with it
www.castaldo.com/vlt-very-low-temperature-silicone-molding-rubber/
Just as you saw it in this video my friend. Weigh out the two components, mix very well, pour into the mold and then vacuum. Once the silicone has risen and fallen, all the bubbles have gone. Then just leave it 24 hours. You get a perfect mold without flaws 😁
Thanks for the share : )
I still say I wish I could be your apprentice 😂great video brother 👊🏻
I'm still very much an apprentice myself - but thanks 😁😁😁
finally a video
It's only been a fortnight... life gets it the way at times 😊👍
I think creating a complete model with multiple coins on a sprew and gate tree and printing it with jewelers wax resin makes this product moot and decreases the number of casting steps; just the sprewed and gated print into your mold flask, seal with tape as usual, fill with investment, use your vacuum chamber, burnout, and pour in your molten metal. Loads easier than creating a whole other mold for creating wax patterns, plus far less waste!
It's a thought 😊
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Where does the air go, when you pour in the molten metal?
I wondered that as well. I believe the idea is that it's forced out through the joins it the silicone. If you prevent this, it can spoil the wax and if you allow it too much, you get a halo of wax. Like everything else, it a case of practice makes perfect 😊
pulled thru the pores in the plaster in the vacuum chamber.
If you want to sell the wax injection frame put it etsy or somewhere I'll buy one either in stl file or a completed frame.
I need that file too $$$
Hey he added the frame to his Etsy store now. 👍
That's a classic style of solid machine. Who says they don't make 'em like they used to? Simple switch and heating light indicator. Metal throughout. Could have been made 50 years ago save for the modern temperature controls and digital input /display. 👍
You can't improve upon 'classic' 😁
what about the package film?
They didn't have any... gasp!
😉😁
No, no film, but it was VERY well packaged. Lots of cardboard and injected-foam-in-a-bag to take up all the voids, hold things snugly and keep them safe. I think with Arbe, making things stronger than average comes as standard 😊
I would love to work with you on some designs and to pick your brains. Your videos are always fantastic.
Finding enough time in the day to do everything I want to do is a real problem for me, but I'm always happy to answer questions. You can email me any time via www.vegoilguy.co.uk/contact_general.php 👍👍👍
@@vogman email sent thank you
seems the mould needed to warm up first before you got good results. warming up may help out next time
I think so too
Amazing results as always. Where can I find a Voggers anonymous meeting? haha. I'm having a crack at using brown microcrystalline wax, it's apparently good for making hollow sculptures. Ever used it before?
Voggers? We meet in dark rooms and whisper plans for casting domination 😉
No James, that's not something I've tried. So many possibilities...
If u guys don’t want to pay for silicone I found a meltable kind that can be reused on Amazon called composi mold
Interesting. I see it's reusable. If it worked well, it would definitely make wax cheaper than resin 👍
Bought a arbe wax injection without hand pump how do I connect a bike pump to it for air/pressure
Sorry my friend I don't know. Is it the same model? There should certainly be an opening somewhere designed to take a fitting of some kind.
Yes and apparently you connect the bike pump to were you would connect the air compressor
Sweet. You have the entire set now. I have some ideas for that. ;-)
Er... that's me feeling nervous now.
@@vogman nah, after fists and feet, it will be a walk and a wave. 😆
Where I can find the silicone 3d mold holder?
He posted it on his Etsy shop.
www.etsy.com/listing/1031600120/liquid-mould-frames-boxes-for-lost-wax?transaction_id=2518673209
I'm about to use parrafin candle wax to cast some gears. Any tips? I haven't got any vacuum equipment though.
If you're using the candle wax as a casting wax, I would guess it would work, but I thinks there will be some sooty deposits left behind. This won't necessarily spoil the integrity of your gears, but it will probably spoil the finish a little. So there may be some surface imperfections, but hopefully it will work for you.
in my experience, paraffin wax tends to shrink a lot when cooling. Even when you use the proper injection wax, it can shrink if it's heated too much. You might need to play with your wax temperature: just hot enough to fill the mold well, but not so hot that it it causes shrinkage voids when cooling.
Been there, done that. Cutting the gears is MUCH better. johnsmachines.com
I was just thinking of this the other day
There you go. Now you know that it works very well : )
...how come Arbe thought of putting the on/off switch on the front of their machine, when this is beyond the imagination of many designers?
Maybe because they've tried their own products. many could learn from this 😁👍
Pleased. Still waiting for homemade investment plaster! =)
Me too 😁
hello. What is the name of the blue resin shown at the beginning of the video?
I believe that was just the Elegoo Blue resin : )
Do you think you'll be putting these mold frames up for download either on Thingiverse or Etsy?
To be honest, that's not something I'd though about. It might be a good idea :-)
@@vogman please do
It’s up on his Etsy store now
this is all nice & very pretty but in ancient times they didn't have all of that & they still did it, all of does machine are getting very expensive for just a hobby, what would be very awesome is finding out how they used to do it whit out the burning oven cause I don't have 3000$ to spare + 1500 for the casting machine plus the wax injector & all of the tools
I totally agree! Haven't you seen my earlier videos where I made my own burnout oven, vacuum chamber, etc. It's worth looking at them. Have a look at this video... I'm pretty sure in it I describe everything you need plus my own cheaper builds to keep the costs down. ua-cam.com/video/qxj5eUkAFUI/v-deo.html
I started this hobby with a budget of pennies and folks told me I couldn't do it without thousands. I'm pleased to say I proved them wrong.
But as with all hobbies, it's nice to look at what else is available.
There's been experimental archaeologists who have played with creating cast objects with nothing more than wax, clay, cloth, and fire. exarc.net/issue-2018-4/at/viking-jewellery-mould-making-experimental-and-reconstructive-aspects
If the link doesn't work, search article title "Viking Jewellery Mould Making. Experimental and Reconstructive Aspects".
I've found this one very interesting.
Wow!
😊
greetings indeed
😁
What does a full lost wax casting setup cost me?
I'm looking for one as i want to start my own business
I want to stay under 5k$
Impossible to say... it's down to what you buy and what price you can get it for. This video should give you an idea of the equipment you need. A little research and shopping around will do the rest - ua-cam.com/video/qxj5eUkAFUI/v-deo.html
@@12tromps I was able to find everything used for under 2k
you should try injection molding
With me it could be more like Rejection molding 😁😁😁
Cool
Thanks 😁
Soon he's going to have to show all his bought equipment and post links for people interested in doing similar hobbies/ jobs.
Actually the plan is to monopolise all the worlds printing and casting equipment, and then I can sell it back at extortionate prices. Mind you if I did, I'd probably still make a loss 😀😄😁
@@vogman*insert lost casting pun here*
Hey there :) can you cast a bell for us? I would like to see how you approach this - greetings from Germany 👋🏼
If I did a bell, I'd probably print one using castable resin. Maybe I'll do one closer to Christmas 😁
VOG that would be fantastic - and of course jingle bells need to be made in the right time of the year - greetings ;)
Hi Jeff, and thanks for all of your great, fun and entertaining videos :), I always learn something when watching your work.
I wonder is it possible to make plastic molds through casting? I know lost wax casting and plastic are different topics, but it would be very helpful experiment to see the possibility.
Can you please show us, if possible, printing a mold of a jewelry or something else, using resin(Wax) or FDM (PLA) printer, and then making an aluminum cast out of it?, to see how efficient it can be for plastic injection molding, or maybe for wax molding?.
I've been searching for such video for a long time, and I couldn't find anyone using such technique.
the majority uses CNC for making molds, but if this works, think how cool that would be!
Hi Bacel. That's an interesting idea. Personally I have no experience at all with plastic injection moulding. I'll add this to my list of things to look at one day soon.
So many fun ideas and projects... so little time 😁👍👍👍
@@vogman sounds great!, can't wait to see your next projects 😆 , best of luck 👍🏻
Isn't there a 3D printer resin wax? That way you skip a step in the process.
there are many and they are generally very expensive, but this method is to use cheaper resins for a master allowing mass production at a lower overall cost
Spot on Adam 😊👍👍👍
Adam Rudling I do not agree. The resin may be more expensive, but then you don’t have to buy silicone for the pattern mold, the injector, and the wax, which should be somewhat expensive for the superior casting qualities. And, having worked in a commercial foundry and seen this firsthand, a lot of mold waste taking up space and adding more junk to the planet.
@@FranklyWry the wax injection of moulds allows rapid ie seconds repetition of pieces at significantly reduced piece cost.
Wax for injection is very cheap compared to 3d printer wax resin, in the order of a tenth the cost.
Agreed there is extra cost and time involved in making a mould be it silicone or plaster, but these items recoup their cost very rapidly in a production environment.
Also this allows you to cut the computer based side out totally if you want too.
hello there
👍
Have you ever looked into using a hot glue gun for injection molding?
Maybe melt your own wax sticks and melt away!
It's not something I've come across 😊
Looks like a ok price at $599
But still a little rich for my wallet
But Buy your review worth the money
I'm on your side, believe me. My pockets are very shallow. But it's nice to know what equipment is out there and how it works. That way we can make better decisions 👍😊
me likey
Thanks Shane 😁👍👍👍
I like how the American company wants a simple "review", while the Chinese companies insist on an "honest review". LOL
You can't blame Arbe for that one John, it was me. I normally say HONEST but forgot on this occasion.
But that, of course, doesn't mean I wasn't being honest... 😁
I think your using camera tricks. You should send me one of those coins for proof that your not. 😁
If only my old iPhone 5 was up to camera tricks. I'm just pleased if it records 😁👍👍👍
@@vogman lol !!! really though great work...👍👍👍.. You should try to do a coin with someone's face I am carious how it would turn out.