Thank you, this was much better than reading the instructions. I just got one for Christmas. I've never used a gas lantern before. I could see how to get the mantle on, it seemed way too big, and I didn't get what they meant by "pre-burn the mantle".
@dwayneguydammit If i had to rate this, I would give it a 8 out of 10 on this model. There are two drawbacks in my opinion. First, the ignitor stabs right through the mantle and the little bit of wiggle room it has creates a small hole in the burnt silk. I think its a contributor to premature mantle replacement. Second, anything butane doesn't flow well in cold weather. If you've ever used a butane lighter after being left in the car overnight in the winter, you would know what i mean.
Gas bottles are a mixture of butane, isobutane and propane, and they can vary from brand to brand. The more propane in the mixture, the better for winter use. There is also some manufacturer that tune the bottle construction to optimise use in cold temps. Check "winter gas" from primus, I think it does both. As for the piezo/mantle interaction, never found it to be a problem on mine...
@@richardcorfield9926 I have never seen any wobble on the mantle of mine. I may even ad that they are rock solid and very durable mantles. I always make sure the lantern is snugly packed in its plastic box, but it usually travels "loose" in a box of camping bits and bobs on the roof rack. Never had a mantle break or work itself loose. I usually change mantle at the start of the season, that's it (but again, that lantern do not see too many hours of run time). But when installing the mantle, I take my time to do it well. Also, I must admit that I first sacrificed a couple of mantles at home to figure out where to best stab the mantle to have a clean, even "egg" after the burn. Keep the mantle on the inside of the igniter's kink, so it "retracts" cleanly without unduly stressing the mesh (keeps the "egg shape nicely, and keeps the stabbing hole small)
Beau Green if you are on the move you are gonna most probably end up needing a new glow mantel at every single occasion of usage because the previous one wouldnt be able to take hits of packing, transporting and unpacking...
Surprisingly I haven't had to change mine once. The case keeps it pretty secure on the trail as long as you pack it tight in your backpack. I will say for normal camping this doesn't give off a lot of light if you have a large group.
Hi there, you instruct the viewer not to turn on the gas when pre-burning the mantle (5:09). Actually, I copied this from the Primus Easylight 2245 Lantern Manual : "Light the mantle with a match or lighter and turn the control knob (2) and keep the burner alight for about a minute until the mantle has formed a white "egg"."
N o - don' t do that - follow the video instructions ! Because the gaz - temperatur is t o o high and the mantle therefore cannot reach the more small = optimal structure.
@@Tywno I don't know the answer - it's best to do your own experiments with it. ( I have been using the _PETROMAX_ kerosene gas lamp for 30 years, and _this_ must only be opened to the full gas flame when the new ''textile'' gas jacket _before_ (!) has completely glowed through )
@@ernstlessau8208 At the beginning of this year, I bought a Petromax HK500 and I can confirm that it's manual states to let the mantle burn down completely. However, a Petromax lantern has a different working principle than an EasyLight and the Petromax manual states to use the rapid heater for igniting the new mantle. I think the use of the rapid heater is the main reason why one should let the mantle burn down completely. Otherwise, the force of the 'firestorm' will permanently deform the mantle.
@@Tywno - {シ) The HK500 is great, but unfortunately very noisy. ( By indoor use ) Yes, I think so too: that is probably the main reason for the previous slowly burning up. The second reason is probably the much larger mantle, which is in addition to that very thin - walled.
@dwayneguydammit If i were to do this all over again, i would have bought the one without the ignitor. However, the ignitor that is on the model i have can be removed.
Quite right ! , using a simple cigarette lighter directly holding its flame above / near the glass rim for ignition ( as in earlier times - ) , and with such a lighter it also starts easy , at once , and safe - Remove that shit ignition - construction completely - the lamp itself would be happy - o f c o u r s e ! ♥㋛
. That modern *Ignition Wire* near / in the *Gas Mantel* is a big problem - better is - NOT using that wire - ignition, better or safer / longer duration of the gasmantle happens by using a simple cigarette lighter directly holding its flame above the glass rim for ignition ( as in earlier times - ) , and with such a lighter it also starts _easy , at once_ , and _safe_ - Remove that shit ignition - construction completely - the lamp itself would be happy - o f c o u r s e ! - That 's m y tipp , after I had destroyed 6 gasmantels one after another because of the unacceptable *Defect - Wholes* in the mantle after very small vibrations of the ignition wire - w h a t a s h i t construction : the smallest whole in the mantle is forbidden , because darting flames are too destroyable for the glass ! - *better is to use that really excellent lamp - light classically , **_without_** such a shit wire* ͡๏̯͡๏ *!* ! But your video it is nice - thank you - 2017-10-27
there is a small and easy fix to address this issue. you have to cut the wire with the cutters in order to shorten it a bit and then fold the remaining piece of wire more towards horizontal plane in a way that a wire ignitor not even touch the mantle anymore. you have to test the spark before putting a new mantle on to find the correct gap, to make sure the ignition is working perfectly. Too small of a gap will reduce the spark power, the ignition won't be enough to lighten the mantle, too big of a gap won't produce a spark at all. I will probably film a small video soon to show how it does look and work. It works nearly perfectly and mantles last a lot longer. I agree, the stock ignition design is really bad, otherwise it is a really great lantern. Cheers!
@@Stantube1000 O.K. ಠ‿ಠ Oh yes - you are right not to touch the mantle with the ignition electrode but still get an effective ignition spark. ( That didn't work with my lamp )
Great explanations and thanks for clarifying about the placement of the mantel and the piezo igniter. I would have been faffing with it forever.
Thank you, this was much better than reading the instructions. I just got one for Christmas. I've never used a gas lantern before. I could see how to get the mantle on, it seemed way too big, and I didn't get what they meant by "pre-burn the mantle".
Have the same lantern....love it. Nice dog too.
Have the same lantern....love it.
Very nice! thanks for the review!
@dwayneguydammit If i had to rate this, I would give it a 8 out of 10 on this model. There are two drawbacks in my opinion. First, the ignitor stabs right through the mantle and the little bit of wiggle room it has creates a small hole in the burnt silk. I think its a contributor to premature mantle replacement. Second, anything butane doesn't flow well in cold weather. If you've ever used a butane lighter after being left in the car overnight in the winter, you would know what i mean.
Gas bottles are a mixture of butane, isobutane and propane, and they can vary from brand to brand. The more propane in the mixture, the better for winter use. There is also some manufacturer that tune the bottle construction to optimise use in cold temps. Check "winter gas" from primus, I think it does both.
As for the piezo/mantle interaction, never found it to be a problem on mine...
@@pierauspitz It looks like a fair wobble on this one. Making me more cautious of buying.
Do all of the Primus igniters pierce the mantle?
@@richardcorfield9926 I have never seen any wobble on the mantle of mine. I may even ad that they are rock solid and very durable mantles.
I always make sure the lantern is snugly packed in its plastic box, but it usually travels "loose" in a box of camping bits and bobs on the roof rack. Never had a mantle break or work itself loose. I usually change mantle at the start of the season, that's it (but again, that lantern do not see too many hours of run time).
But when installing the mantle, I take my time to do it well.
Also, I must admit that I first sacrificed a couple of mantles at home to figure out where to best stab the mantle to have a clean, even "egg" after the burn. Keep the mantle on the inside of the igniter's kink, so it "retracts" cleanly without unduly stressing the mesh (keeps the "egg shape nicely, and keeps the stabbing hole small)
nice review! what would you rate it out of 10?
This a good lantern for backpacking? I'm trying to determine if i should buy this or a LED lantern? Any opinions?
Beau Green if you are on the move you are gonna most probably end up needing a new glow mantel at every single occasion of usage because the previous one wouldnt be able to take hits of packing, transporting and unpacking...
Surprisingly I haven't had to change mine once. The case keeps it pretty secure on the trail as long as you pack it tight in your backpack. I will say for normal camping this doesn't give off a lot of light if you have a large group.
Hi there, you instruct the viewer not to turn on the gas when pre-burning the mantle (5:09). Actually, I copied this from the Primus Easylight 2245 Lantern Manual : "Light the mantle with a match or lighter and turn the control knob (2) and keep the burner alight for about a minute until the mantle has formed a white "egg"."
N o - don' t do that - follow the video instructions ! Because the gaz - temperatur is t o o high and the mantle therefore cannot reach the more small
= optimal structure.
@@ernstlessau8208 Then why does the manual state that?
@@Tywno I don't know the answer - it's best to do your own experiments with it.
( I have been using the _PETROMAX_ kerosene gas lamp for 30 years, and
_this_ must only be opened to the full gas flame when the new ''textile'' gas jacket _before_ (!) has completely glowed through )
@@ernstlessau8208 At the beginning of this year, I bought a Petromax HK500 and I can confirm that it's manual states to let the mantle burn down completely. However, a Petromax lantern has a different working principle than an EasyLight and the Petromax manual states to use the rapid heater for igniting the new mantle. I think the use of the rapid heater is the main reason why one should let the mantle burn down completely. Otherwise, the force of the 'firestorm' will permanently deform the mantle.
@@Tywno - {シ) The HK500 is great, but unfortunately very noisy.
( By indoor use )
Yes, I think so too: that is probably the main reason for the previous slowly burning up.
The second reason is probably the much larger mantle, which is
in addition to that very thin - walled.
My opinion is that the technical specs comparing the light output with 80W light bulb is way too optimistic. 10-20W comparison would be more accurate.
actually, the lumen output fits a 40W incandescent bulb.
@ThomasR099 Thanks!
@dwayneguydammit If i were to do this all over again, i would have bought the one without the ignitor. However, the ignitor that is on the model i have can be removed.
Quite right ! ,
using a simple cigarette lighter directly holding its flame above / near the glass rim for ignition ( as in earlier times - ) , and with such a lighter it also starts easy , at once , and safe - Remove that shit ignition - construction completely - the lamp itself would be happy - o f c o u r s e ! ♥㋛
. That modern *Ignition Wire* near / in the *Gas Mantel* is a big problem - better is - NOT using that wire - ignition, better or safer / longer duration of the gasmantle happens by using a simple cigarette lighter directly holding its flame above the glass rim for ignition ( as in earlier times - ) , and with such a lighter it also starts _easy , at once_ , and _safe_ - Remove that shit ignition - construction completely - the lamp itself would be happy - o f c o u r s e !
- That 's m y tipp , after I had destroyed 6 gasmantels one after another because of the unacceptable *Defect - Wholes* in the mantle after very small vibrations of the ignition wire - w h a t a s h i t construction : the smallest whole in the mantle is forbidden , because darting flames are too destroyable for the glass ! - *better is to use that really excellent lamp - light classically , **_without_** such a shit wire* ͡๏̯͡๏ *!* !
But your video it is nice - thank you -
2017-10-27
there is a small and easy fix to address this issue. you have to cut the wire with the cutters in order to shorten it a bit and then fold the remaining piece of wire more towards horizontal plane in a way that a wire ignitor not even touch the mantle anymore. you have to test the spark before putting a new mantle on to find the correct gap, to make sure the ignition is working perfectly. Too small of a gap will reduce the spark power, the ignition won't be enough to lighten the mantle, too big of a gap won't produce a spark at all.
I will probably film a small video soon to show how it does look and work. It works nearly perfectly and mantles last a lot longer. I agree, the stock ignition design is really bad, otherwise it is a really great lantern.
Cheers!
@@Stantube1000 O.K. ಠ‿ಠ
Oh yes - you are right not to touch the mantle with the ignition electrode
but still get an effective ignition spark. ( That didn't work with my lamp )