dobar primjer redukcije sile ...dosad najbolje rješenje ,sa zanemarivim istrošenjima mehanizma ...BRAVO..malo treba povečati kut luka tako da mehanizam bude samokočion ,i prilagoditi okidač prema tome
I just finished fabricating this trigger mechanism. Fantastic and smooth to say the least. I saw the problem with the spring(s) then went to work solving the issue. I used 0.62 music wire rapped three time around a 3/16th pin into a torsion spring. The 3/16 pin is the anchor for the spring. The short end is Z-bent to pass through the sidewall of the housing. the long side of the spring passes through a drilled hole located on a 1/4 inch Carter Key Pin cut off to length. The head of the Carter pin and the torsion spring keep the pin from falling out of the trigger. Trim the length of the spring to clear the trigger pivot pin. The torsion spring keeps constant pressure in both directions. Cocking is very light. Releasing is soft. Fantastic design.
Sure wish I could see a picture of that. I'm having a bit of a problem visualizing it. Sounds exactly like the kind of spring I'm looking for in my own design.
Dale Erwin Dale, torsion spring looks like a wooden clothes pin springs. My spring is held in position via a pin through the spring coils. One arm of the spring is secured to the receiver sidewall via a Z bend.which keeps the spring anchored. The trigger arm end of the spring is attached to the side of the trigger. I cut down a 1/4" diameter retaining pin to length and drilled a 1/8" hole in the end so the spring arm can glide back and forth in the 1/8 hole. As the trigger is pulled back to release the arrow, the retaining pin swivels and the spring arm slides back and forth while it keeps the trigger up against the sear cam. When the trigger is pulled backwards, the spring passes through neutral for just a brief second. Because the spring arm travels freely inside the retaining pin, it will keep constant pressure in both directions. The trigger will disengage the spring from the pivot pin if pulled to the rear too far. A trigger stop will prevent this. I was very pleased at how smooth the trigger release is.
Hey I don't know if you've seen the problems with this design yet but a few simple changes will correct them. One is that you'll need two spring and pin systems to move the mechanisms. Another is that the shape used for the trigger, even though functional in the design, is impractical. With the rounded edge the piece would slide off before it could(if possible) lock. It would need to be straightened with a rounded corner to be able to function properly. One spring mechanism would need to be placed before the trigger to attach to the locking system to pull the piece back each time. The other behind the trigger to attach to it to reset it after each "pull" in sync with the locking system. Another problem will be the size of the lock itself. It needs to be downsized to allow the string to slide into the cocked position without jamming or to much friction which will cause unneeded wear on the string. Thanks for listening.
Yes, springs are needed to reset the mechanism. They are not shown in this schematic. Rounded trigger part is not a problem and results in a smooth "bump-less" pull. Have used it before in a different design and it worked fine.
Me and a couple buddies are starting to make and sell crossbows and this really helped up get an idea of where to start with our trigger system for our first homemade (soon to be released to the public) Jupiter Mark I
It may well result in a light trigger pull but as shown there will be a great deal of trigger creep before the break. You will need to shorten the length of the trigger engagement AND to add springs to ensure proper trigger/ sear engagement.
This trigger has gone through many many modifications. The latest evolution is far from the original and uses a skate bearing and sear and works very well. The parts are made from PVC so it will be interesting to see how they stand up. In this model three springs reset the trigger and so far have not jammed.
wicked dude, stop by the forum and let us know if we can help out with anything crossbow related. Will be great to see another crossbow gearhead join in. :)
Depends on what you want. The simple medieval trigger mechanism needed the long lever as a trigger, or you would have an absurdly hard trigger pull, which most of us wouldn´t be able to activate! Nor did it reset easily... In a modern mechanism, you aim for a short, crisp trigger pull, that has a certain resistance, not to much, not too little and the mechanism can also affect the wear and noise emission, etc.
looks like a han chinese crossbow trigger
dobar primjer redukcije sile ...dosad najbolje rješenje ,sa zanemarivim istrošenjima mehanizma ...BRAVO..malo treba povečati kut luka tako da mehanizam bude samokočion ,i prilagoditi okidač prema tome
I just finished fabricating this trigger mechanism. Fantastic and smooth to say the least. I saw the problem with the spring(s) then went to work solving the issue. I used 0.62 music wire rapped three time around a 3/16th pin into a torsion spring. The 3/16 pin is the anchor for the spring. The short end is Z-bent to pass through the sidewall of the housing. the long side of the spring passes through a drilled hole located on a 1/4 inch Carter Key Pin cut off to length. The head of the Carter pin and the torsion spring keep the pin from falling out of the trigger. Trim the length of the spring to clear the trigger pivot pin. The torsion spring keeps constant pressure in both directions. Cocking is very light. Releasing is soft. Fantastic design.
Sure wish I could see a picture of that. I'm having a bit of a problem visualizing it. Sounds exactly like the kind of spring I'm looking for in my own design.
Dale Erwin Dale, torsion spring looks like a wooden clothes pin springs. My spring is held in position via a pin through the spring coils. One arm of the spring is secured to the receiver sidewall via a Z bend.which keeps the spring anchored. The trigger arm end of the spring is attached to the side of the trigger. I cut down a 1/4" diameter retaining pin to length and drilled a 1/8" hole in the end so the spring arm can glide back and forth in the 1/8 hole. As the trigger is pulled back to release the arrow, the retaining pin swivels and the spring arm slides back and forth while it keeps the trigger up against the sear cam. When the trigger is pulled backwards, the spring passes through neutral for just a brief second. Because the spring arm travels freely inside the retaining pin, it will keep constant pressure in both directions. The trigger will disengage the spring from the pivot pin if pulled to the rear too far. A trigger stop will prevent this. I was very pleased at how smooth the trigger release is.
Hey I don't know if you've seen the problems with this design yet but a few simple changes will correct them. One is that you'll need two spring and pin systems to move the mechanisms. Another is that the shape used for the trigger, even though functional in the design, is impractical. With the rounded edge the piece would slide off before it could(if possible) lock. It would need to be straightened with a rounded corner to be able to function properly. One spring mechanism would need to be placed before the trigger to attach to the locking system to pull the piece back each time. The other behind the trigger to attach to it to reset it after each "pull" in sync with the locking system. Another problem will be the size of the lock itself. It needs to be downsized to allow the string to slide into the cocked position without jamming or to much friction which will cause unneeded wear on the string. Thanks for listening.
Yes, springs are needed to reset the mechanism. They are not shown
in this schematic. Rounded trigger part is not a problem and results in a
smooth "bump-less" pull. Have used it before in a different design and
it worked fine.
Me and a couple buddies are starting to make and sell crossbows and this really helped up get an idea of where to start with our trigger system for our first homemade (soon to be released to the public) Jupiter Mark I
It may well result in a light trigger pull but as shown there will be a great deal of trigger creep before the break. You will need to shorten the length of the trigger engagement AND to add springs to ensure proper trigger/ sear engagement.
This trigger has gone through many many modifications.
The latest evolution is far from the original and uses a
skate bearing and sear and works very well. The parts
are made from PVC so it will be interesting to see how
they stand up. In this model three springs reset the trigger
and so far have not jammed.
I'd have thought that having 5 pivots was just overcomplicated.
Very innovative, and i believe will be very smooth, good job
Very nice design.
I would be curious to see how hard it would be to pull.
Just a thought, but is it possible to send the trigger hook to the front of the bow, and use it as retrieval hook along with a crank cocking device?
wicked dude, stop by the forum and let us know if we can help out with anything crossbow related. Will be great to see another crossbow gearhead join in. :)
This is great - was it modelled with Solidworks or something else?
this would be one very loud trigger
What program are you using to show this?
how de mechanism returns to de initial position?
Springs, not shown, reset the mechanism.
The string is intended to fit into a nock.
Was modeled with solid edge.
What app is this?
solid edge
CW Ranged Main:
ｃｏｏｌ
smart.. (:
unnecesary complex
Depends on what you want. The simple medieval trigger mechanism needed the long lever as a trigger, or you would have an absurdly hard trigger pull, which most of us wouldn´t be able to activate! Nor did it reset easily...
In a modern mechanism, you aim for a short, crisp trigger pull, that has a certain resistance, not to much, not too little and the mechanism can also affect the wear and noise emission, etc.
easy triiger easy rist of auto random shotting shotting and death