I don’t think they are the best for beginners honestly. They are known to carry uronema which is hard to remove from your tank once it’s introduced. Normally that wouldn’t be a problem but if you have other sick fish then that can cause some death. Also, the main reason that they often fight when in groups is because they aren’t fed enough. They need to be fed multiple times a day to reduce aggression and stay healthy. An overfed tank can lead to algae issues if you don’t know how to manage your nutrients. I think a better starter fish is honestly just a clownfish. They can carry brook but with a simple quarantine they’ll be okay.
My experience has been that the blue-green Chromis (Chromis viridis) is very easy to care for, though it took a lot of work and research to get there. 1. Quarantine. I followed this guide from Reef2Reef: "Fish is floated in the bag for 20-30 minutes (to temp acclimate) and then released into QT with matching SG. I give the fish a few days to recuperate and try to get him eating. Once he’s eaten for two consecutive days, I begin Prazipro treatment - dose once, wait 5-7 days, do a 20-25% water change and then repeat dosage. Five days later I do another 20-25% water change and run activated carbon for 24 hours. After removing the carbon, I begin copper treatment for 30 days. After that, the fish should be ready for the DT - so long as he’s eating, looks healthy and isn’t displaying symptoms of any disease." 2. I only ever got one blue-green Chromis to avoid intraspecific aggression. It seems kind of out-of-place without a school, but it does not seem to care. 3. I feed a lot, > 4-5 times a day. It helps to fuel the decorative macroalgae that I have growing in my tank too; I never wanted to keep coral. Otherwise, keeping the blue-green Chromis has been a breeze. It eats like a pig, gets along with its tankmates (except when stealing food from them), and makes good usage of my tank's rockwork and water column. P.S. its name is "Queen Uronema"
@@hypanusamericanus9058that is the most trash QT i have ever read in my life. You are literally only targetting flukes with prazi. You did nothing for ich, velvet, brooklynella, or uronema. You should just delete all that
I currently have 4 chromis in an 80 gallon tank. I previously had two separate smaller tanks and had them in pairs and were okay together. When i put them all together in the same tank, one ended up on his own instead of with the pack. He is not bullied but is always alone, would adding more chromis help or make it worse? I also heard it's better when they are in odd pairs. But I'm also afraid of adding more and for them to start taking each other out.
Sometimes having an odd amount can be good. Usually if one is by itself it tends to be the smallest one in the group. Is that one still eating for you? Monitor them for now and see if you notice the aggression because it may already be happening.
@@TheCoralReefTalk thanks for the response, he eats well and swims around but never really with the rest of the crew, the others don't really mess with him either. They were added to the same tank at the beginning of this year so he's been like this for a while now. Size wise, i think he might be close to the same size as all the rest if it might be something we can't even notice. The others also school around with two tangs in my tank, but not sure if that would also affect the lone wolf
You're welcome, That's a good sign that it is swimming out and about not just in the corner timid, and it's eating. It may be fine. You can try feeding him on his side of the tank and see if the others join in and if they try and fight him off for the food.
My experience has been that the blue-green Chromis (Chromis viridis) is very easy to care for, though it took a lot of work and research to get there. 1. Quarantine. I followed this guide from Reef2Reef: "Fish is floated in the bag for 20-30 minutes (to temp acclimate) and then released into QT with matching SG. I give the fish a few days to recuperate and try to get him eating. Once he’s eaten for two consecutive days, I begin Prazipro treatment - dose once, wait 5-7 days, do a 20-25% water change and then repeat dosage. Five days later I do another 20-25% water change and run activated carbon for 24 hours. After removing the carbon, I begin copper treatment for 30 days. After that, the fish should be ready for the DT - so long as he’s eating, looks healthy and isn’t displaying symptoms of any disease." 2. I only ever got one blue-green Chromis to avoid intraspecific aggression. It seems kind of out-of-place without a school, but it does not seem to care. 3. I feed a lot, > 4-5 times a day. It helps to fuel the decorative macroalgae that I have growing in my tank too; I never wanted to keep coral. Otherwise, keeping the blue-green Chromis has been a breeze. It eats like a pig, gets along with its tankmates (except when stealing food from them), and makes good usage of my tank's rockwork and water column. P.S. its name is "Queen Uronema"
@@saucytabasco Well, she's still alive and kicking years later. What do you propose instead? What makes my process so flawed? You haven’t explained any of these.
That's great! Damsels can get aggressive and they are tricky to catch because they are fast! Have you tried making a fish trap with a 2-liter bottle? We talk about it in this video here. ua-cam.com/video/v5xm1Ut5FJk/v-deo.html
These are way better in person. I was worried they would be to plain, but the green/blue color is amazing
I never actually considered these guys; I'll take another look at them!
I don’t think they are the best for beginners honestly. They are known to carry uronema which is hard to remove from your tank once it’s introduced. Normally that wouldn’t be a problem but if you have other sick fish then that can cause some death. Also, the main reason that they often fight when in groups is because they aren’t fed enough. They need to be fed multiple times a day to reduce aggression and stay healthy. An overfed tank can lead to algae issues if you don’t know how to manage your nutrients. I think a better starter fish is honestly just a clownfish. They can carry brook but with a simple quarantine they’ll be okay.
My experience has been that the blue-green Chromis (Chromis viridis) is very easy to care for, though it took a lot of work and research to get there.
1. Quarantine. I followed this guide from Reef2Reef:
"Fish is floated in the bag for 20-30 minutes (to temp acclimate) and then released into QT with matching SG. I give the fish a few days to recuperate and try to get him eating. Once he’s eaten for two consecutive days, I begin Prazipro treatment - dose once, wait 5-7 days, do a 20-25% water change and then repeat dosage. Five days later I do another 20-25% water change and run activated carbon for 24 hours. After removing the carbon, I begin copper treatment for 30 days. After that, the fish should be ready for the DT - so long as he’s eating, looks healthy and isn’t displaying symptoms of any disease."
2. I only ever got one blue-green Chromis to avoid intraspecific aggression. It seems kind of out-of-place without a school, but it does not seem to care.
3. I feed a lot, > 4-5 times a day. It helps to fuel the decorative macroalgae that I have growing in my tank too; I never wanted to keep coral.
Otherwise, keeping the blue-green Chromis has been a breeze. It eats like a pig, gets along with its tankmates (except when stealing food from them), and makes good usage of my tank's rockwork and water column.
P.S. its name is "Queen Uronema"
Do wild caught chromiz carry uronema?
This is this right answer. Terrible fish for a beginner, probably should be clasified as expert due to uronema
@@hypanusamericanus9058that is the most trash QT i have ever read in my life. You are literally only targetting flukes with prazi. You did nothing for ich, velvet, brooklynella, or uronema. You should just delete all that
I have had many chromis fish and not once had an issue..
I currently have 4 chromis in an 80 gallon tank. I previously had two separate smaller tanks and had them in pairs and were okay together. When i put them all together in the same tank, one ended up on his own instead of with the pack. He is not bullied but is always alone, would adding more chromis help or make it worse? I also heard it's better when they are in odd pairs. But I'm also afraid of adding more and for them to start taking each other out.
Sometimes having an odd amount can be good. Usually if one is by itself it tends to be the smallest one in the group. Is that one still eating for you? Monitor them for now and see if you notice the aggression because it may already be happening.
@@TheCoralReefTalk thanks for the response, he eats well and swims around but never really with the rest of the crew, the others don't really mess with him either. They were added to the same tank at the beginning of this year so he's been like this for a while now. Size wise, i think he might be close to the same size as all the rest if it might be something we can't even notice. The others also school around with two tangs in my tank, but not sure if that would also affect the lone wolf
You're welcome, That's a good sign that it is swimming out and about not just in the corner timid, and it's eating. It may be fine. You can try feeding him on his side of the tank and see if the others join in and if they try and fight him off for the food.
How often do I feed them?
Feed 1 to 2 times a day. Just enough that they can eat in a few minutes.
@@TheCoralReefTalk if I feed them only once a day is the chances of them starving high?
@@englishfishkeeper2007I feed my aquarium two times a day, however if you alternate and feed 1 time one day and twice another they will be fine.
One user was able to maintain a large school without intraspecific aggression/Chromis killing each other with 5 feedings/day.
My experience has been that the blue-green Chromis (Chromis viridis) is very easy to care for, though it took a lot of work and research to get there.
1. Quarantine. I followed this guide from Reef2Reef:
"Fish is floated in the bag for 20-30 minutes (to temp acclimate) and then released into QT with matching SG. I give the fish a few days to recuperate and try to get him eating. Once he’s eaten for two consecutive days, I begin Prazipro treatment - dose once, wait 5-7 days, do a 20-25% water change and then repeat dosage. Five days later I do another 20-25% water change and run activated carbon for 24 hours. After removing the carbon, I begin copper treatment for 30 days. After that, the fish should be ready for the DT - so long as he’s eating, looks healthy and isn’t displaying symptoms of any disease."
2. I only ever got one blue-green Chromis to avoid intraspecific aggression. It seems kind of out-of-place without a school, but it does not seem to care.
3. I feed a lot, > 4-5 times a day. It helps to fuel the decorative macroalgae that I have growing in my tank too; I never wanted to keep coral.
Otherwise, keeping the blue-green Chromis has been a breeze. It eats like a pig, gets along with its tankmates (except when stealing food from them), and makes good usage of my tank's rockwork and water column.
P.S. its name is "Queen Uronema"
Trash process. You missed 80% of the diseases
@@saucytabasco Well, she's still alive and kicking years later. What do you propose instead? What makes my process so flawed? You haven’t explained any of these.
What is the minimum tank size for it
It's recommended around 30 gallons if your keeping a group of them
Fairly newbie here. I have 2 and I love them! However, I also have two 3-striped damsels. So hateful! I am trying to get them out! Not fun...
That's great! Damsels can get aggressive and they are tricky to catch because they are fast! Have you tried making a fish trap with a 2-liter bottle? We talk about it in this video here. ua-cam.com/video/v5xm1Ut5FJk/v-deo.html