No music was just fine. We all have different tastes in music but we all love tools. Nice test. It was like a analog test. It’s too easy to just test it against a Quinn digital torque adapter. The adapters could be off as well.. You could do an angle test. Tighten a nut down with digital adapter and mark the nut with a line and the metal the nut is against with another line and test the variations of torque by how much farther or lesser the nut passes the line. Just an idea. I found your test interesting. Happy 4th 🇺🇸🔧
I was aiming at an AC Delco digital torque for $100 to torque my lug nuts, I stopped by harbor freight and saw the 1/2 inch torque on sale for $15... I couldn't resist the deal so I'm glad it had good accuracy in the test. Weekend DIY too.
I've had my 1/2" Harbor Freight torque wrench for almost a decade and never had any problems with it. Not sure if it would hold up in a shop being used every day but it's perfect for DIY at home use.
same here. Only use once in a while and my 1/2 HF is pretty accurate when I tested against my friends really nice shop torque wrench with 5% good enough for me.
You do know that these wrenches can be recalibrated. Any torque wrench would need to be checked and calibrated periodically, regardless of brand or cost. These wrenches, while they are very inexpensive, are very easily calibrated. Your demonstration was very clear, however it would have been helpful to go through the calibration procedure while you had your rig set up and also it's important to release the spring tension when storing a torque wrench as that will shorten the calibration period. Good video.
They do carry a lifetime warranty just like all other Pittsburgh hand tools it even says so on the package so when the time comes and it needs recalibrating you can just return it for another brand new one as it’s not really worth the time or effort to recalibrate it when you have this option. I just recently warrantied my half inch model as I loaned it out to my neighbor and he had left it cranked up to 120 ft lbs when it was returned.
@@scottmingersoll Pretty sure warranty doesn't cover calibration and maintenance, that's like taking your car back for warranty when its time for the oil change...
@@jakegarrett8109 Im sorry but that’s a stupid comparison as is not a car but a sub $20 throw away tool and having it calibrated professionally would cost the user more than purchasing a new one and yes it is indeed covered under the no questions asked lifetime warranty stated on the box just like all other Pittsburgh hand tools. I’ve warranted one before so I am speaking from experience, if you want to go learn how to calibrate yours more power to you but between my work and family I personally have more important things to use my time for.
@@scottmingersoll I saw this video and another one today, and the 3/8ths wrench was off by basically 33% out of the box. So, even if its brand new, it can still be 33% inaccurate... Getting a new one every year still doesn't avoid that, and how do you know if its off unless you checked it? It takes like 2 minutes more to calibrate it if you're already checking its spec, so I value my time, hence I wouldn't bother warranty on such a cheap part to begin with, but also it takes more than 2 minutes just to walk into the store and grab another one compared to adjusting the adjustment screw (which who knows if the new one will be accurate, how many wrenches are you going to check?)
I had both of those, they are really easy to re-calibrate. They do need to be stored at the lowest torque rating and cycled three times before using from lowest to highest torque. Something to bear in mind at 5lb/ft being off by 33% is something like +-1-2lb/ft which yes, is high but still probably better than not using a torque wrench where you can fairly easily end up with + or - 100% accuracy or more at that level.
@@giovannifoulmouth7205 if it's the clicker type with the handle you spin to set the torque, it will most likely need to be recalibrated. There's a couple videos on UA-cam on you can recalibrate them at home with an inexpensive scale. Split beam type torque wrenches don't suffer from this, because there is no spring that will develop a memory after being compressed for a peroid of time. But they cost more.
For my job in water work, aka municipal water, I've bought roughly 6 of the 1/2 inch for tightening down or torqueing our mechanical joints for various things like new install and water break repairs. For $20 or less these are perfect for our work. Our bolts are 3/4" generaly and these torque wrenches have been perfect for us. Gets us close enough for our work. The thing is they are subjected to very harsh conditions in general. Muddy, wet, sandy trenches aren't kind to tools in general so that's why we've purchased the 6 or so wrenches in the time I was the foreman. Great for us and a god send. It's aweful to spend $120.00 on a wrench that gets dropped in water on a cold night.
I used ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx4ynqaujg7rZKFapA8s29kTpRszJGa3-K this for the first time today to replace the front wheel bearing on my rwd 98 dodge dakota. This had absolutely no issue removing or reinstalling the lug nuts and it took off the axle nut without any struggle. Sounds like it's got some muscle to it. Time will tell
I have these two also. Used them to install performance rear end suspension parts on my 2012 mustang. Had to use an aluminum extension over the torque wrench (and my leg) under the car to reach spec, but it made it. Before that I used them maintain my 92’ Celica. Almost 200k on that car. Sold it to my brother and he drives it daily. The wrenches need to be maintained. Open up the pawl, disassemble, and re-oil them. Motor oils fine. They work good and cheap for DIY. I have not had an issue with either one. I paid 25 for the 1/2” and 19 for the 3/8” I’m glad these are available at that price range. Thanks HF.
Thanks. This saved me a lot of money. I recently bought a Tesla. Great car, but it comes without a spare tire. Bought a spare from Modern Spare (comes with a jack & J-bar lug wrench). Tesla lug nuts need 129 ft-lbs. I'll buy the ½" drive for $20 instead of a more expensive one. With the spare, a tire inflator and this torque wrench, I'll be safe on the road. You saved me ~$80.
I have used and own many torque wrenches over my 45 years as a mechanic. Snap-On Tools required I have them recalculate my 3/8" drive ft/lb torque wrench every 2 years or they would not warranty it for accuracy. The tool cost me $150.00's back twenty years ago. Their 1/2" drive was much more money. As mechanics we were taught to only trust any torque when set between 20% to 80% of it's max measurements. Below or above those torques we were to chose a smaller or larger tool. We were never allowed to use any tool at the lowest or highest settings. So why are those numbers on there anyway?? I own only six torque wrenches today. Ranging from 1/4" to 3/4" drive. Four of them are Harbor Freight tools.
Interesting for me, I used this method to check my cheap (metric) torque wrench out, having to work out the force of gravity into the equation and convert Newtons to Newton meters! That was fun, found out that my wrench was off, so found a few YT videos on how to calibrate it, a little grub screw under a rubber plug about half way down the length of the wrench needed to be adjusted took about 15 minutes and done! Cheers for your input
FYI, they also sell an electronic torque wrench addition. Like 20 some odd bucks. It just beeps when you hit the set torque. I measured it on a snapon and craftsman torque wrenches and it is quite accurate. I use that in line with my HF torque wrenches for a sanity/accuracy check. The battery sucks on it but it does the job if you need some real accurate low torque (in/lb) or real accurate torque specs.
I have a good digital 3/8 Gearwrench 120xp torque wrench for my engines... but I do have the quarter inch Pittsburgh Pro from Freight and a 3/4 inch Pittsburgh Pro from Harbor Freight ($80) and they are actually really good to me... they out perform the 20 bucks and 80 bucks... Do that with an expensive torque wrench and your results will be pretty much the same most torque wrenches work best at the higher end of their capacity.. So if you're trying to tighten something Titan something at 10 foot pounds get a quarter inch torque wrench not a 3/8 or 1/2 in ....and vice versa if you want something at 128 ft lb get a 3/8 or 1/2 in .... right tool for the job....
I have noticed that too, I don't use the lower 25% range of the wrench usually ill step down a size. However the manufacturer should not have it marked to go below it's accurate range.
You gotta count the leverage of the tool with small screws by hand you can tell with a small wrench a good feel and with a big one you don’t feel nothing try tightening a 8mm with a 1/2 inch ratchet with adapter to 1/4 inch
First of all, you should never use these at the low end. They won't be accurate. Use a smaller torque wrench. Second, the weight of the handle plus the string+pipe will make it click sooner. Other than that, a good video. I did this with my HF torque wrenches using my lug nuts instead of welding a socket. The 1/2" and 3/8" were within a couple of pounds in the middle ranges. Good enough for what I use them for. I got them for $9.99 on sale. Good deal!
I have the 1/2" one in the back of the car with a 19mm deep socket and a breaker bar for tire changes. I figure lug nuts spec'd at 89 aren't likely to care too much about a
Found this video right after learning that the 'weight at some distance' method is a flawed method for testing the accuracy of a click type torque wrench. I am not an expert, but just passing on what I learned. Because of how the mechanism works, the applied torque at the head actually depends on where you hold the handle. They are almost always calibrated to a perpendicular force applied to the center of the handle, so applying force anywhere else as you did in this video will yield incorrect torque even with a calibrated mechanism. Counterintuitive right? It is because the pivot point for the mechanism that measures the torque and the pivot point for the head are at different positions; changing where you apply the force on the handle changes the relative size of these two levers, which yields different applies torques even with a calibrated mechanism. Here is experimental evidence demonstrating this effect from Park Tool, maker of high quality torque wrenches for bikes: ua-cam.com/video/BPe1-bDFVRM/v-deo.html And here is an explanation of a click-type torque wrench's mechanism and the math of why grip position matters in this design: ua-cam.com/video/0f746pF1xc0/v-deo.html
Any person that buys a torque, torques it from the handle so I'm sure engineers designed it with that in mind and any sane person will know that it's best to torque it from the handle. I don't want to get too deep into torque settings as a DIY, I only care that the torque is accurate enough.
Great comment with substantiating links. This leads me to ask: In order to get accurate results, would it be necessary to use a system which suspends a bucket from the midpoint of the grip to which is added a known undersized weight and slowly add small weights to find the click point? Once found, the bucket and contents could be weighted to get the actual trip weight.
Excellent video! I have been wondering for several months if those cheaper wrenches are worth using! I had no idea how to test the accuracy. I learned alot. Thank you!
I found this video extremely helpful. I recently did the valve cover gaskets on my wife's truck and they are still leaking and was really dreading having to re do them, but now that I found this video I am leaning much more to the torque values being off
Something to consider in your testing is that you had the weight wrench unsupported which could be throwing off your measurement would be more accurate if you tested horizontally and pulled it with a come along and had a load force tester inline
Where does that torque go? Did you invent something that violates equal and opposite reactions? If you draw a box around your system, did you somehow dissipate torque into the air? Torque = Force x Distance (in this case that x is not just a * sign, its vectors with the force perpendicular to the arm)
@@jakegarrett8109 In your comment, I don't see any mention of the engineering concept of torsion. I specifically said "adapters or extensions will have an affect on the torque wrench's accuracy due to torsion." How much the accuracy is affected depends on several factors including length, material, etc. of the adapter/extension. It may be insignificant for some, but crucial for others. So no, I didn't "invent something". And no, the lost torque didn't "dissipate torque into the air".
@@MrPaulSimone So did that formula say anything about torsion? Engineers know that a system you draw a box around it, and if you have the same rpm coming out of it you will have the same torque, where is this power mysteriously dissipating into the air? You can twist a spring 100 turns, but even if its rotated 36000 degrees, its torque at the output will be identical to the torque at the input unless something else is holding it in place. Where is the air holding your connector in place?
@@jakegarrett8109 Are you seriously doubling down on your ignorance? Do you think the single equation you used accounts for all forces/stresses involved in rotating bodies? Do you think there are no other mathematical relationships involving torque? Anyone can Google the basic equation for torque in 2 seconds. Well, at least you were able to do that. Come on, you do realize 100 complete "turns" of anything is the same as 36,000 degrees of revolution. Additionally, your example of the spring and air is pointless when discussing ratchets, sockets, and extensions. On the other end of that ratchet may be a Honda Crankcase pulley bolt. It will teach you the concept of torsion if you're using your extension(s) and your Googled basic torque equation.
@@MrPaulSimone What is the difference between a spring (kept straight along its axis) and this magical torsion in socket extensions? News flash, the socket extension would be a torsion SPRING, and yet, the torque at the end (because the summation of all forces must be zero) did not magically dissipate torque.
I saw a video where the tester calibrated the wrench by disassembling the handle, tighten or loosen a nit inside, so I think with your setup you could calibrate then easily!
Glad I found this video. Didn't think about my inexpensive O'Reilly wrench being way off. Never saw directions about cycling it before use. Will check how accurate it is now thanks to your vid as I use it to tighten my daily driver lug nuts. Only mechanical issue I have had with it was the top two black screws holding the head piece together came loose and out due to no locktite being on them. Was easy enough to screw it back together.
I just bought the 1/4 inch and 3/8's on sale for $11 for that price even if its 1/3rd off I plan to use it. I mean I dont worry about torque on anything besides headbolts and main bearings. Everything i just make tight is tight
1:36 there are such things as left handed threads, go ask your grandparents about the Valiants and Darts they drove in the 60s and having to tighten lug nuts in different directions on each side of the car. So being reversible is a key feature for the Mopar Or No Car, A-Bodies Only, and C Body Dry Dock crowds at the very least.
It's very common in industrial environments. One of the hard lessons that I learned, and then passed on to all the youngins I had to train over the years. Sometimes, you have to break off a bolt or cross thread something to learn the hard lesson. I always help them out though, when they have to easy-out the broken bolt or re-tap the cross thread. I try not to be a jerk about it.
glad you didn't get hurt on that! Very interesting test. I bought those plus the 1/4" one. My 3/8" doesn't seem to trigger. The 1/2" one seems to work fine. Haven't used the 1/4" yet. Of course I haven't tested them to see if they are accurate or not, only that they trigger
I hate it but my HF torque wrenches are all accurate. I tried to replace them many times with better expensive ones thinking to throw them away or donate, but the cheap $10 suckers have better accuracy vs expensive ones. I absolutely despise their fit and finish, sloppiness and cheap feel, but the suckers just don't want to go away showing better results than $120 split beams.
Very wise and humble of you to show us your 75 pound kite… lmao! Really though some people actually might believe that is viable and seeing this might’ve saved their foot.
thanks for this informative video. I bought a 1/4" drive one 5 years ago. Never used it. I guess I may as well throw it in the garbage and get the 1/2" drive.
On the case, it's just as good as the snap on. Had the 3/8 and 1/2 inch digital. Retired and sold them. 480 and 800. Had to pull the head on my 22r. Used the Harbor freight 1/2 inch. So far so good.
For this to be more accurate, you should factor in the weight of the handle, rope, and pipe. Will make a difference especially in the lower ranges as the percentage of total weight would be greater. Otherwise great, well thought out test and greatly appreciate you taking the time to make this!
I might be mistaken but I seem to remember from my highschool auto shop class is that torque wrenches are calibrated in such a way the the position of the handle from the pivot is the same as 1 foot regardless id the handle is not at the 1 foot mark. A 3/4" wrench has an almost 2 foot long arm but is calibrated so that is measures as if it was at the 1 foot mark.
I just got my 1/2" version Pittsburgh Pro for free with a coupon. It looks good enough for wheels and suspension components. Probably won't assemble a long block with it, but for everything else it'll get a go from me.
One reason for the poor readings at the low setting of the 3/8 wrench is that your method does not consider the weight of the wrench handle. The wrench weighs a little over 2 pounds so you are starting out with nearly a pound of static torque just from the way it is configured on your test set up. I measured my 3/8 wrench (not HF but similar size) and found the handle adds just over 0.9 pounds. Negligible at high settings but very substantial when testing at the low end. Unfortunately it will only make the 1/2 performance worse!
I'm wondering if it got sent out of calibration when the twine snapped and he almost broke his foot and face. I'm new to torque wrenches, but all the brands seem to say the lower 20% of the range isn't really meant to be accurate or used anyway. Maybe something like a $400+ Snap-On would be fine, but that's a lot to ask from a $15 tool.
The work-around for the low settings is to get a 1/4" wrench. Always use the smallest wrench that is capable of the setting you need. They are all more accurate in the upper end of their range.
@@HerbOMatic The 3/8" wrench was consistently 2-3 pounds under spec. So the handle _is_ a significant feature. Another channel I saw used a scale pulling horizontally on the handle. Or you could use a pulley off to the side, so you could use your weights, but apply the force horizontally.
I just ordered the 3/8 one on sale from HF for about $11, good to know it might have some wild variances. I will test it. Also good to knwo the 1/2" one may be more in spec, I have that one too. Thank you.
A few observations. First, you should have used name brand wrenches as a control and to demonstrate their accuracy. Second, nobody who can afford the aviation hobby would need to buy a 25$ torque wrench. Otherwise, good video.
I really enjoyed watching your video and did so out of curiousity. It raises a lot of concerns in my mind as to your methodology in testing these click type torque wrenches. These click torque wrenches do not depend on the distance from the socket to measure torque. I am not really understanding why you are trying to do that. The internal mechanism is completely independent from where your grip is ont the handle. The internal mechanism is set to click on the dialed in torque setting no matter where you grip the handle: In fact, you can put a 5' cheater bar on the handle and it will still click off at the correct value. The way these kinds of wrenches are built, it is like a torque wrench inside a socket wrench, where you literally have no interaction with the actual torque measurement aparatus (click point). The only interaction you, as the end user, have is adjusting the calibration by disassembling the knobs on the end of the wrench handle. What this basically means is if you pull on the handle of the wrench next to the head, or put on a cheater bar to make it 5' long, the torque wrench will always click off at the setting dialed in, it just does not care how much leverage you apply to the handle (distance down the handle shaft you pull from). The measuring of how far down the handle you put your weights makes no difference in other words. I am not sure if maybe you were trying to find something out that I am just not understanding, but it sounds like you are unaware of how this kind of torque wrench works. I cringed when it nearly popped you in the face, as this was for nothing. I guess you could use this kind of setup to do an actual calibration of the wrench, but it would make more sense to use either a pully to pull up on the wrench or a baggage scale to pull up on the wrench so it is not so dangerous. Here at my work location, we use a deflection torque wrench to place head-to-head with our click type torque wrenches since they are not calibratable and easier to validate than a click type. Doing that head-to-head allows you to apply force to the click torque wrench in the vice and so you pull on the deflection torque wrench so you see the actual analog torque value and watch for the click of the wrench in the vice. I am not sure if what I am telling is making sense to you, but you really need to understand how these click torque wrenches work better for your own safety. I fear someone is going to follow your direction and get really hurt for no reason.. Keep up the work on your videos, as I enjoy watch them as well! mrstan
I just bought the 3/8" wrench (before watching this video) but I don't feel so bad with my purchase. I bought it on the SMALL chance there might be a day when I need to tear appart my lawn mower or snow blower engines and neeed to torque them back into spec. I can live with them being off by ~ 8%. I just need to remember to set the torque a bit higher than spec.
Well by using your chart, just remember to compensate for the 3/8 at low torque. I have the 1/2 and 4% is good enough and glad it is accurate over range. Thanks
My first torque wrench was a cheap one. From 40 nm to 200 nm. At 110 it only did 40 nm. Got a new one... at 110 it was 190. Swapt it for a beta tool ... if it got to be good you need good tools
I have multiple HF torque wrenches and have them set up for dedicated uses. The one I use most is my "car" one that I keep with it so I can torque lug nuts when my wife's car or my truck need to have tire rotations done. For $22 bucks, I can afford to leave it in my truck toolbox.
Point 1 they're not reversible to loosen a nut or bolt, they're reversible to torque left hand threads. Point 2 the 1/2" wrench was accurate enough for most home mechanic jobs and the 3/8" one could most likely be recalibrated to acceptable limits. As always you get what you pay for. But for most jobs they're fine. After checking them I'd trust them for putting together a car or motorcycle engine.
*FUN FACT:* Torque wrenches work best when they are used at the closest value they are maxed out. Meaning if you want to tighten a lug nut with 140Nm then you better have a torque wrench with 160Nm max limit (or something around that area). However most of the1/2 wrenches are 210Nm but you can compensate by "overtorquing" a bit to overcome the loss when you use a lower value.
you can calibrate them yourself ,very easily . there designed to be calibrated with the adjustment beneath the screw handle . all you is need a fishermans scale . the type you hold up .
Your test on the 3/8" drive version looks like it would be very easy to recalibrate, as it is off by pretty much the same amount at each test point, so it's just a straight linear adjustment that's needed. And most accuracy specs are measured as percent of full scale, not percent of reading, which would mean that the 3/8" drive wrench you tested meets its torque spec accuracy claim.
I got one for my AR, and I misread the weight setting 😆 silly mistake, so now I'm onto crush washer nunber 2! Thanks for the video. I don't feel completely crazy for buying it.
Your video is realy good, I do stupid rigging and stuff like that over my life time, I just take my HFT torque wrenchs on my Snap-on dealer truck and test them every now and then. The 1/2 drive is good for lug nuts and as a loner in stead of my Snap-on torque wrenchs but I think there ok for the price if u don't need torque wrenchs every day 🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧
Thanks Joseph, Yeah they are good beaters, I think they should be validated roughly before use. I think Harbor Freight is good for the guy that uses a lot of tools but doesn't use one tool a lot. Thanks for the comment!
I purchased a set of these to work on my dirtbike and something told me they were not correct because I was tightening down stuff pretty tight and still no click The video help to substantiate my thoughts . Because I would set say to 20 lbs and it clicks at 30 lbs . I just quit using them before I broke something.
Thanks for the series of tests. Perhaps the tests should have included the weight of the heavy duty string and the swinging weight. Otherwise, it will affect the accuracy, especially on light weight tests. Thanks again for your tests.
I don't think this is an accurate way to measure a torque wrnech, the readings would be off depending on where along the handle you put the weight, toward the end would be different than halfway to the end, the real way to measure a torque wrench is with a torque tester, anything else and your guessing how accurate it is.
I worked a helicopter job where i needed my own torque wrenches, I ran out of money on my last wrench and used a 1/4" harbor freight toque wrench that i had at home, it passed calibration every time, although it was a little embarrassing sending it though the shop for the yearly cal's
I have both brand name and Harbor Frieght wrenches. I had access to an Aerospace balance lab using precision weights for calibration and was able to calibrate a Harbor Freight wrench to a good tight tolerance BUT, the question is "How long will it hold calibration?
This is a bogus test. Anyone who's used a torque wrench should know to hold the handle only. Any triggering shorter/longer than 12" from the pivot point means the weight is significantly different.
Invalid test of the 3/8 wrench. The adapter used with the 3/8" wrench changed the torque applied at the socket base. The hypotenuse of the created triangle is longer than the (base) handle measurement. The same is true when a deep socket is used with a bolt or nut.
This test should not be used to determine whether a high-end torque wrench is better than a low-end torque wrench. To truly test the accuracy of these torque wrenches you would have to select a proper sample size of torque wrenches. Probably at least 100 wrenches or more and test each one recording the results. Then you would have to do the same thing with a random sample of the high-end wrenches. Then statistically analyze the results. Then you could make a more definitive statement regarding the accuracy of the low end wrench vs the high-end wrench.
Wtf?! This isn't underwriters laboratory bro. This works fine for a general idea. Man, there's always at least one of your armchairs out there that can do it better. So why not put your money where your mouth is and make a video with your hundred wrenches?
If you baste your calibration checks on how you actually grip the torque wrench not at the one foot Mark but where you actually put your hand you would find the accuracy at the lower levels was a lot better than it was indicated
I always warm it up first by going from 20lb/ft til the desired lb/ft on a lug nut. As I recall that's what everyone online says to do, that and to store it at 0.
The problem is a whole majority of these videos try to make Pittsburgh Pro torque wrenches look great yet if you do a simple search on internet forums like the great Reddit you see they are one of the biggest mistakes you can make using it on your engine bay or sensitive parts in the transmission Etc because they're reliability in plus or minus 3 or 4% is so all over the place
Music? Does it make the video more or less enjoyable for you? Let me know!
No music was just fine. We all have different tastes in music but we all love tools. Nice test. It was like a analog test. It’s too easy to just test it against a Quinn digital torque adapter. The adapters could be off as well.. You could do an angle test. Tighten a nut down with digital adapter and mark the nut with a line and the metal the nut is against with another line and test the variations of torque by how much farther or lesser the nut passes the line. Just an idea. I found your test interesting. Happy 4th 🇺🇸🔧
I would vote no music
No music 💯
no music is good
music is annoying
It’s important to remember to return the wrench to the lowest setting when storing your torque wrench.
Always.
Thanks, I didn’t know that.
I just got it for $13 and it does the job. Im a weekend diy guy and can’t see myself spending $100 for a torque wrench.
Do a quick sanity check on it before wrenching on anything expensive! Thanks man!
I was aiming at an AC Delco digital torque for $100 to torque my lug nuts, I stopped by harbor freight and saw the 1/2 inch torque on sale for $15... I couldn't resist the deal so I'm glad it had good accuracy in the test. Weekend DIY too.
@@HerbOMatic my guy living on the edge
I just purchased one at harbor freight. I used it to put this new hub bearing in the Altima. I set the torque to 65 foot pounds
It worked great. .
Hopefully you're not working on your vehicles or anything that your family's life is dependent upon
I've had my 1/2" Harbor Freight torque wrench for almost a decade and never had any problems with it. Not sure if it would hold up in a shop being used every day but it's perfect for DIY at home use.
same here. Only use once in a while and my 1/2 HF is pretty accurate when I tested against my friends really nice shop torque wrench with 5% good enough for me.
Lesson learned , always always wear PPE . My friend lost an eye when a cord like that snapped .Very informative video , thank you .
You do know that these wrenches can be recalibrated. Any torque wrench would need to be checked and calibrated periodically, regardless of brand or cost. These wrenches, while they are very inexpensive, are very easily calibrated. Your demonstration was very clear, however it would have been helpful to go through the calibration procedure while you had your rig set up and also it's important to release the spring tension when storing a torque wrench as that will shorten the calibration period. Good video.
They do carry a lifetime warranty just like all other Pittsburgh hand tools it even says so on the package so when the time comes and it needs recalibrating you can just return it for another brand new one as it’s not really worth the time or effort to recalibrate it when you have this option. I just recently warrantied my half inch model as I loaned it out to my neighbor and he had left it cranked up to 120 ft lbs when it was returned.
i agree, id like to see a calibration video.
@@scottmingersoll Pretty sure warranty doesn't cover calibration and maintenance, that's like taking your car back for warranty when its time for the oil change...
@@jakegarrett8109 Im sorry but that’s a stupid comparison as is not a car but a sub $20 throw away tool and having it calibrated professionally would cost the user more than purchasing a new one and yes it is indeed covered under the no questions asked lifetime warranty stated on the box just like all other Pittsburgh hand tools. I’ve warranted one before so I am speaking from experience, if you want to go learn how to calibrate yours more power to you but between my work and family I personally have more important things to use my time for.
@@scottmingersoll I saw this video and another one today, and the 3/8ths wrench was off by basically 33% out of the box. So, even if its brand new, it can still be 33% inaccurate... Getting a new one every year still doesn't avoid that, and how do you know if its off unless you checked it? It takes like 2 minutes more to calibrate it if you're already checking its spec, so I value my time, hence I wouldn't bother warranty on such a cheap part to begin with, but also it takes more than 2 minutes just to walk into the store and grab another one compared to adjusting the adjustment screw (which who knows if the new one will be accurate, how many wrenches are you going to check?)
I had both of those, they are really easy to re-calibrate. They do need to be stored at the lowest torque rating and cycled three times before using from lowest to highest torque. Something to bear in mind at 5lb/ft being off by 33% is something like +-1-2lb/ft which yes, is high but still probably better than not using a torque wrench where you can fairly easily end up with + or - 100% accuracy or more at that level.
You need to store all clicker style torque wrenches at their lowest setting. It doesn't matter which brand. Not doing this will screw up the spring.
@@williamallen7836 I had no idea, I've been storing mine at whatever torque setting I used it last time, is my torque wrench trashed now?
@@giovannifoulmouth7205 if it's the clicker type with the handle you spin to set the torque, it will most likely need to be recalibrated. There's a couple videos on UA-cam on you can recalibrate them at home with an inexpensive scale. Split beam type torque wrenches don't suffer from this, because there is no spring that will develop a memory after being compressed for a peroid of time. But they cost more.
Yes, sometimes you need to reverse it. Not to loosen, but for left hand threads. Mower blade on a push mower is an example
Exactly, I was thinking the same! It's not a ratchet, it IS a torque wrench that torques RH or LH fasteners.
For my job in water work, aka municipal water, I've bought roughly 6 of the 1/2 inch for tightening down or torqueing our mechanical joints for various things like new install and water break repairs. For $20 or less these are perfect for our work. Our bolts are 3/4" generaly and these torque wrenches have been perfect for us. Gets us close enough for our work. The thing is they are subjected to very harsh conditions in general. Muddy, wet, sandy trenches aren't kind to tools in general so that's why we've purchased the 6 or so wrenches in the time I was the foreman. Great for us and a god send. It's aweful to spend $120.00 on a wrench that gets dropped in water on a cold night.
😊
I used ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx4ynqaujg7rZKFapA8s29kTpRszJGa3-K this for the first time today to replace the front wheel bearing on my rwd 98 dodge dakota. This had absolutely no issue removing or reinstalling the lug nuts and it took off the axle nut without any struggle. Sounds like it's got some muscle to it. Time will tell
I have these two also. Used them to install performance rear end suspension parts on my 2012 mustang. Had to use an aluminum extension over the torque wrench (and my leg) under the car to reach spec, but it made it. Before that I used them maintain my 92’ Celica. Almost 200k on that car. Sold it to my brother and he drives it daily. The wrenches need to be maintained. Open up the pawl, disassemble, and re-oil them. Motor oils fine. They work good and cheap for DIY. I have not had an issue with either one. I paid 25 for the 1/2” and 19 for the 3/8” I’m glad these are available at that price range. Thanks HF.
Buy a torque meter they're very accurate
Thanks. This saved me a lot of money. I recently bought a Tesla. Great car, but it comes without a spare tire. Bought a spare from Modern Spare (comes with a jack & J-bar lug wrench). Tesla lug nuts need 129 ft-lbs. I'll buy the ½" drive for $20 instead of a more expensive one. With the spare, a tire inflator and this torque wrench, I'll be safe on the road. You saved me ~$80.
I have used and own many torque wrenches over my 45 years as a mechanic. Snap-On Tools required I have them recalculate my 3/8" drive ft/lb torque wrench every 2 years or they would not warranty it for accuracy. The tool cost me $150.00's back twenty years ago. Their 1/2" drive was much more money. As mechanics we were taught to only trust any torque when set between 20% to 80% of it's max measurements. Below or above those torques we were to chose a smaller or larger tool. We were never allowed to use any tool at the lowest or highest settings. So why are those numbers on there anyway?? I own only six torque wrenches today. Ranging from 1/4" to 3/4" drive. Four of them are Harbor Freight tools.
Yeah, when he started at 5, I cringed. His idea of a sanity check before using it is good though.
I bought a digital torque wrench and it’s one of he best purchases ever. I love it. Definitely worth the money.
what drive?
Thanks for doing this. I'm actually more comfortable buying this wrench now.
Interesting for me, I used this method to check my cheap (metric) torque wrench out, having to work out the force of gravity into the equation and convert Newtons to Newton meters! That was fun, found out that my wrench was off, so found a few YT videos on how to calibrate it, a little grub screw under a rubber plug about half way down the length of the wrench needed to be adjusted took about 15 minutes and done! Cheers for your input
FYI, they also sell an electronic torque wrench addition. Like 20 some odd bucks. It just beeps when you hit the set torque. I measured it on a snapon and craftsman torque wrenches and it is quite accurate. I use that in line with my HF torque wrenches for a sanity/accuracy check. The battery sucks on it but it does the job if you need some real accurate low torque (in/lb) or real accurate torque specs.
I have a good digital 3/8 Gearwrench 120xp torque wrench for my engines... but I do have the quarter inch Pittsburgh Pro from Freight and a 3/4 inch Pittsburgh Pro from Harbor Freight ($80) and they are actually really good to me... they out perform the 20 bucks and 80 bucks...
Do that with an expensive torque wrench and your results will be pretty much the same most torque wrenches work best at the higher end of their capacity..
So if you're trying to tighten something Titan something at 10 foot pounds get a quarter inch torque wrench not a 3/8 or 1/2 in ....and vice versa if you want something at 128 ft lb get a 3/8 or 1/2 in .... right tool for the job....
I have noticed that too, I don't use the lower 25% range of the wrench usually ill step down a size. However the manufacturer should not have it marked to go below it's accurate range.
Bought a 1/4 from HF today my 3/8 seemed to just not feel right at the lower ft pounds.
@@ryanmccarthy76 they're good👍...(Pittsburgh /4" torque wrenches)
@@ryanmccarthy76 yeah cuz it’s a 3/8
You gotta count the leverage of the tool with small screws by hand you can tell with a small wrench a good feel and with a big one you don’t feel nothing try tightening a 8mm with a 1/2 inch ratchet with adapter to 1/4 inch
First of all, you should never use these at the low end. They won't be accurate. Use a smaller torque wrench. Second, the weight of the handle plus the string+pipe will make it click sooner. Other than that, a good video. I did this with my HF torque wrenches using my lug nuts instead of welding a socket. The 1/2" and 3/8" were within a couple of pounds in the middle ranges. Good enough for what I use them for. I got them for $9.99 on sale. Good deal!
I have the 1/2" one in the back of the car with a 19mm deep socket and a breaker bar for tire changes. I figure lug nuts spec'd at 89 aren't likely to care too much about a
Found this video right after learning that the 'weight at some distance' method is a flawed method for testing the accuracy of a click type torque wrench. I am not an expert, but just passing on what I learned. Because of how the mechanism works, the applied torque at the head actually depends on where you hold the handle. They are almost always calibrated to a perpendicular force applied to the center of the handle, so applying force anywhere else as you did in this video will yield incorrect torque even with a calibrated mechanism. Counterintuitive right? It is because the pivot point for the mechanism that measures the torque and the pivot point for the head are at different positions; changing where you apply the force on the handle changes the relative size of these two levers, which yields different applies torques even with a calibrated mechanism.
Here is experimental evidence demonstrating this effect from Park Tool, maker of high quality torque wrenches for bikes:
ua-cam.com/video/BPe1-bDFVRM/v-deo.html
And here is an explanation of a click-type torque wrench's mechanism and the math of why grip position matters in this design:
ua-cam.com/video/0f746pF1xc0/v-deo.html
Any person that buys a torque, torques it from the handle so I'm sure engineers designed it with that in mind and any sane person will know that it's best to torque it from the handle. I don't want to get too deep into torque settings as a DIY, I only care that the torque is accurate enough.
Great comment with substantiating links. This leads me to ask: In order to get accurate results, would it be necessary to use a system which suspends a bucket from the midpoint of the grip to which is added a known undersized weight and slowly add small weights to find the click point? Once found, the bucket and contents could be weighted to get the actual trip weight.
Excellent video! I have been wondering for several months if those cheaper wrenches are worth using! I had no idea how to test the accuracy. I learned alot. Thank you!
decent wrench for a diy person doing basic work drain plugs, lugnuts ETC, not delicate things like motors. Good test
Great point!
Is it good for tie rods and suspension? I bought the 3/8 today at HF and going to use it soon
@@richcityrepresentative8805 yes
@@ikeyeet8312 ok thanks
Love it, Britain had the best aircraft during WWII👍🏻
I found this video extremely helpful. I recently did the valve cover gaskets on my wife's truck and they are still leaking and was really dreading having to re do them, but now that I found this video I am leaning much more to the torque values being off
It's a possibility, don't crank them down too hard or you may distort the valve cover.
Did you apply rtv sealant on the corners of the gasket and do the correct torque pattern sequence?
@@scottanthony7284 not every vc gasket needs RTV
I've been a mechanic for 40 years and have never used a torque wrench on valve cover bolts.
Something to consider in your testing is that you had the weight wrench unsupported which could be throwing off your measurement would be more accurate if you tested horizontally and pulled it with a come along and had a load force tester inline
Just an FYI: In normal usage, socket adapters or extensions will have an effect on the torque wrench's accuracy due to torsion.
Where does that torque go? Did you invent something that violates equal and opposite reactions? If you draw a box around your system, did you somehow dissipate torque into the air?
Torque = Force x Distance (in this case that x is not just a * sign, its vectors with the force perpendicular to the arm)
@@jakegarrett8109 In your comment, I don't see any mention of the engineering concept of torsion. I specifically said "adapters or extensions will have an affect on the torque wrench's accuracy due to torsion." How much the accuracy is affected depends on several factors including length, material, etc. of the adapter/extension. It may be insignificant for some, but crucial for others. So no, I didn't "invent something". And no, the lost torque didn't "dissipate torque into the air".
@@MrPaulSimone So did that formula say anything about torsion? Engineers know that a system you draw a box around it, and if you have the same rpm coming out of it you will have the same torque, where is this power mysteriously dissipating into the air?
You can twist a spring 100 turns, but even if its rotated 36000 degrees, its torque at the output will be identical to the torque at the input unless something else is holding it in place. Where is the air holding your connector in place?
@@jakegarrett8109 Are you seriously doubling down on your ignorance? Do you think the single equation you used accounts for all forces/stresses involved in rotating bodies? Do you think there are no other mathematical relationships involving torque? Anyone can Google the basic equation for torque in 2 seconds. Well, at least you were able to do that.
Come on, you do realize 100 complete "turns" of anything is the same as 36,000 degrees of revolution. Additionally, your example of the spring and air is pointless when discussing ratchets, sockets, and extensions. On the other end of that ratchet may be a Honda Crankcase pulley bolt. It will teach you the concept of torsion if you're using your extension(s) and your Googled basic torque equation.
@@MrPaulSimone What is the difference between a spring (kept straight along its axis) and this magical torsion in socket extensions? News flash, the socket extension would be a torsion SPRING, and yet, the torque at the end (because the summation of all forces must be zero) did not magically dissipate torque.
Very educational video. Thank you!
I saw a video where the tester calibrated the wrench by disassembling the handle, tighten or loosen a nit inside, so I think with your setup you could calibrate then easily!
Glad I found this video. Didn't think about my inexpensive O'Reilly wrench being way off. Never saw directions about cycling it before use. Will check how accurate it is now thanks to your vid as I use it to tighten my daily driver lug nuts.
Only mechanical issue I have had with it was the top two black screws holding the head piece together came loose and out due to no locktite being on them. Was easy enough to screw it back together.
The problem with your method of testing is when you use it as intended, your hand is at the trigger location. No one has their hand on the very end.
I just bought the 1/4 inch and 3/8's on sale for $11 for that price even if its 1/3rd off I plan to use it. I mean I dont worry about torque on anything besides headbolts and main bearings. Everything i just make tight is tight
1:36 there are such things as left handed threads, go ask your grandparents about the Valiants and Darts they drove in the 60s and having to tighten lug nuts in different directions on each side of the car. So being reversible is a key feature for the Mopar Or No Car, A-Bodies Only, and C Body Dry Dock crowds at the very least.
It's very common in industrial environments. One of the hard lessons that I learned, and then passed on to all the youngins I had to train over the years. Sometimes, you have to break off a bolt or cross thread something to learn the hard lesson. I always help them out though, when they have to easy-out the broken bolt or re-tap the cross thread. I try not to be a jerk about it.
I have had both my g these for about 5 years now and they have always worked great for me.
glad you didn't get hurt on that! Very interesting test. I bought those plus the 1/4" one. My 3/8" doesn't seem to trigger. The 1/2" one seems to work fine. Haven't used the 1/4" yet. Of course I haven't tested them to see if they are accurate or not, only that they trigger
I think maybe going up a level to Husky from home depot or to Harbor Freight's better wrenches might be worth it after reading everyone's stories!
I went ahead and replaced mine with a Lexivon
I hate it but my HF torque wrenches are all accurate. I tried to replace them many times with better expensive ones thinking to throw them away or donate, but the cheap $10 suckers have better accuracy vs expensive ones. I absolutely despise their fit and finish, sloppiness and cheap feel, but the suckers just don't want to go away showing better results than $120 split beams.
Seems fairly often these cheap tools do as well as expensive ones. How did you check the accuracy of your torque wrenches?
Very wise and humble of you to show us your 75 pound kite… lmao! Really though some people actually might believe that is viable and seeing this might’ve saved their foot.
thanks for this informative video. I bought a 1/4" drive one 5 years ago. Never used it. I guess I may as well throw it in the garbage and get the 1/2" drive.
On the case, it's just as good as the snap on. Had the 3/8 and 1/2 inch digital. Retired and sold them. 480 and 800. Had to pull the head on my 22r. Used the Harbor freight 1/2 inch. So far so good.
For this to be more accurate, you should factor in the weight of the handle, rope, and pipe. Will make a difference especially in the lower ranges as the percentage of total weight would be greater. Otherwise great, well thought out test and greatly appreciate you taking the time to make this!
They’re on sale til the 28th of july! $11!! Worth it I would say!
Good testing. helps sort out whether to use on less critical, not very critical torques. Thank you sir!
Thanks for all your work. Very informative and useful.
I might be mistaken but I seem to remember from my highschool auto shop class is that torque wrenches are calibrated in such a way the the position of the handle from the pivot is the same as 1 foot regardless id the handle is not at the 1 foot mark. A 3/4" wrench has an almost 2 foot long arm but is calibrated so that is measures as if it was at the 1 foot mark.
I just got my 1/2" version Pittsburgh Pro for free with a coupon. It looks good enough for wheels and suspension components. Probably won't assemble a long block with it, but for everything else it'll get a go from me.
One reason for the poor readings at the low setting of the 3/8 wrench is that your method does not consider the weight of the wrench handle. The wrench weighs a little over 2 pounds so you are starting out with nearly a pound of static torque just from the way it is configured on your test set up. I measured my 3/8 wrench (not HF but similar size) and found the handle adds just over 0.9 pounds. Negligible at high settings but very substantial when testing at the low end. Unfortunately it will only make the 1/2 performance worse!
Rick that's a good point I hadn't thought of! I think it was off by more than the weight of its handle.
I'm wondering if it got sent out of calibration when the twine snapped and he almost broke his foot and face. I'm new to torque wrenches, but all the brands seem to say the lower 20% of the range isn't really meant to be accurate or used anyway. Maybe something like a $400+ Snap-On would be fine, but that's a lot to ask from a $15 tool.
Anyway around this for more accuracy at lower settings?
The work-around for the low settings is to get a 1/4" wrench. Always use the smallest wrench that is capable of the setting you need. They are all more accurate in the upper end of their range.
@@HerbOMatic The 3/8" wrench was consistently 2-3 pounds under spec. So the handle _is_ a significant feature. Another channel I saw used a scale pulling horizontally on the handle. Or you could use a pulley off to the side, so you could use your weights, but apply the force horizontally.
I just ordered the 3/8 one on sale from HF for about $11, good to know it might have some wild variances. I will test it. Also good to knwo the 1/2" one may be more in spec, I have that one too. Thank you.
They have a reverse on them for torquing left hand threaded fasteners. Not that many out here but ... YES ... they do exist.
A few observations. First, you should have used name brand wrenches as a control and to demonstrate their accuracy. Second, nobody who can afford the aviation hobby would need to buy a 25$ torque wrench. Otherwise, good video.
Good points! Scary thing is half the people in the aviation industry don't use torque wrenches!
The mfr of my Toyota says 13 ft lbs for spark plugs. I am so glad I saw this first. Thanks.
I really enjoyed watching your video and did so out of curiousity. It raises a lot of concerns in my mind as to your methodology in testing these click type torque wrenches.
These click torque wrenches do not depend on the distance from the socket to measure torque. I am not really understanding why you are trying to do that. The internal mechanism is completely independent from where your grip is ont the handle. The internal mechanism is set to click on the dialed in torque setting no matter where you grip the handle: In fact, you can put a 5' cheater bar on the handle and it will still click off at the correct value. The way these kinds of wrenches are built, it is like a torque wrench inside a socket wrench, where you literally have no interaction with the actual torque measurement aparatus (click point). The only interaction you, as the end user, have is adjusting the calibration by disassembling the knobs on the end of the wrench handle. What this basically means is if you pull on the handle of the wrench next to the head, or put on a cheater bar to make it 5' long, the torque wrench will always click off at the setting dialed in, it just does not care how much leverage you apply to the handle (distance down the handle shaft you pull from). The measuring of how far down the handle you put your weights makes no difference in other words.
I am not sure if maybe you were trying to find something out that I am just not understanding, but it sounds like you are unaware of how this kind of torque wrench works. I cringed when it nearly popped you in the face, as this was for nothing. I guess you could use this kind of setup to do an actual calibration of the wrench, but it would make more sense to use either a pully to pull up on the wrench or a baggage scale to pull up on the wrench so it is not so dangerous. Here at my work location, we use a deflection torque wrench to place head-to-head with our click type torque wrenches since they are not calibratable and easier to validate than a click type. Doing that head-to-head allows you to apply force to the click torque wrench in the vice and so you pull on the deflection torque wrench so you see the actual analog torque value and watch for the click of the wrench in the vice.
I am not sure if what I am telling is making sense to you, but you really need to understand how these click torque wrenches work better for your own safety. I fear someone is going to follow your direction and get really hurt for no reason.. Keep up the work on your videos, as I enjoy watch them as well!
mrstan
I just bought the 3/8" wrench (before watching this video) but I don't feel so bad with my purchase. I bought it on the SMALL chance there might be a day when I need to tear appart my lawn mower or snow blower engines and neeed to torque them back into spec. I can live with them being off by ~ 8%. I just need to remember to set the torque a bit higher than spec.
It would be interesting to test some name brands for comparison.
you could get a quinn torque adapter for your testing, waaayyy easier
Well by using your chart, just remember to compensate for the 3/8 at low torque. I have the 1/2 and 4% is good enough and glad it is accurate over range. Thanks
I like that you used actual weight and not another digital tool to test the torque wrench
Thanks Labeeb!
My first torque wrench was a cheap one. From 40 nm to 200 nm. At 110 it only did 40 nm. Got a new one... at 110 it was 190. Swapt it for a beta tool ... if it got to be good you need good tools
I have multiple HF torque wrenches and have them set up for dedicated uses. The one I use most is my "car" one that I keep with it so I can torque lug nuts when my wife's car or my truck need to have tire rotations done. For $22 bucks, I can afford to leave it in my truck toolbox.
Point 1 they're not reversible to loosen a nut or bolt, they're reversible to torque left hand threads. Point 2 the 1/2" wrench was accurate enough for most home mechanic jobs and the 3/8" one could most likely be recalibrated to acceptable limits. As always you get what you pay for. But for most jobs they're fine. After checking them I'd trust them for putting together a car or motorcycle engine.
*FUN FACT:* Torque wrenches work best when they are used at the closest value they are maxed out. Meaning if you want to tighten a lug nut with 140Nm then you better have a torque wrench with 160Nm max limit (or something around that area). However most of the1/2 wrenches are 210Nm but you can compensate by "overtorquing" a bit to overcome the loss when you use a lower value.
My 1/2” wrench came apart after light use. The screws and pawls all came out after a tire change use. I had it for about 6yrs and use it 1x/year
you can calibrate them yourself ,very easily . there designed to be calibrated with the adjustment beneath the screw handle . all you is need a fishermans scale . the type you hold up .
Your test on the 3/8" drive version looks like it would be very easy to recalibrate, as it is off by pretty much the same amount at each test point, so it's just a straight linear adjustment that's needed. And most accuracy specs are measured as percent of full scale, not percent of reading, which would mean that the 3/8" drive wrench you tested meets its torque spec accuracy claim.
I have the 3/8 and it's accurate enough to not lose or break any bolts.
I got one for my AR, and I misread the weight setting 😆 silly mistake, so now I'm onto crush washer nunber 2!
Thanks for the video. I don't feel completely crazy for buying it.
sorry about that. I was going to buy one to build my AR too 😂😂
Even very expensive ones have same error factor 4%.....
I broke my Pittsburg half inch(junk) so I bought the Quinn. I like it so far .
AVE reference was solid gold!
Your video is realy good, I do stupid rigging and stuff like that over my life time, I just take my HFT torque wrenchs on my Snap-on dealer truck and test them every now and then. The 1/2 drive is good for lug nuts and as a loner in stead of my Snap-on torque wrenchs but I think there ok for the price if u don't need torque wrenchs every day 🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧
Thanks Joseph, Yeah they are good beaters, I think they should be validated roughly before use. I think Harbor Freight is good for the guy that uses a lot of tools but doesn't use one tool a lot. Thanks for the comment!
For everyone thinking about buying one, trust me this is one tool that you shouldn’t cheap out on. T
Thanks for the video. Great information here on checking torque wrench accuracy.
I purchased a set of these to work on my dirtbike and something told me they were not correct because I was tightening down stuff pretty tight and still no click The video help to substantiate my thoughts . Because I would set say to 20 lbs and it clicks at 30 lbs . I just quit using them before I broke something.
I think they may be suspect, I've tested them since this video and the 3/8 doesn't work right anymore! I almost broke the wife's jeep with it.
I have a old,1972 craftsman tork. Works as good as a ticker tork. Craftsman has a rod and gage.
Thanks for the series of tests. Perhaps the tests should have included the weight of the heavy duty string and the swinging weight. Otherwise, it will affect the accuracy, especially on light weight tests. Thanks again for your tests.
I don't think this is an accurate way to measure a torque wrnech, the readings would be off depending on where along the handle you put the weight, toward the end would be different than halfway to the end, the real way to measure a torque wrench is with a torque tester, anything else and your guessing how accurate it is.
Since I'm only using to torque my mower blade, I think it's fine!
those "that would've broke my face" moments, make you appreciate all you have LOL
They really do, I knew it was stupid but I thought I would get away with it. I almost didn't!
Yeah it would be nice if they had torque wrench testers at the store!
I worked a helicopter job where i needed my own torque wrenches, I ran out of money on my last wrench and used a 1/4" harbor freight toque wrench that i had at home, it passed calibration every time, although it was a little embarrassing sending it though the shop for the yearly cal's
No shame in your game send her through, the Cal is more than the wrench!
I have both brand name and Harbor Frieght wrenches. I had access to an Aerospace balance lab using precision weights for calibration and was able to calibrate a Harbor Freight wrench to a good tight tolerance BUT, the question is "How long will it hold calibration?
This is a bogus test. Anyone who's used a torque wrench should know to hold the handle only. Any triggering shorter/longer than 12" from the pivot point means the weight is significantly different.
Invalid test of the 3/8 wrench. The adapter used with the 3/8" wrench changed the torque applied at the socket base. The hypotenuse of the created triangle is longer than the (base) handle measurement. The same is true when a deep socket is used with a bolt or nut.
Thank you for the video. You did a great thing.
OMG... THATS SOMETHING I WOULD HAVE DONE.. GLAD YOU DIDNT GET HURT BROTHER!!!
It was close!
The cases are great the wrench's are a great value.
Thanks for the review. Considering the wrench would be mainly for my motorcycle, I’m torn after reading the comments about the calibration.
This test should not be used to determine whether a high-end torque wrench is better than a low-end torque wrench. To truly test the accuracy of these torque wrenches you would have to select a proper sample size of torque wrenches. Probably at least 100 wrenches or more and test each one recording the results. Then you would have to do the same thing with a random sample of the high-end wrenches. Then statistically analyze the results. Then you could make a more definitive statement regarding the accuracy of the low end wrench vs the high-end wrench.
Wtf?! This isn't underwriters laboratory bro.
This works fine for a general idea. Man, there's always at least one of your armchairs out there that can do it better. So why not put your money where your mouth is and make a video with your hundred wrenches?
If you baste your calibration checks on how you actually grip the torque wrench not at the one foot Mark but where you actually put your hand you would find the accuracy at the lower levels was a lot better than it was indicated
I always make sure to have a good supply of paracord on hand as it's typically good for about 800 lb
Never in my life have I seen someone cut pvc like that
12.00 today at HF 1/26/24
honestly they do the job. it has enough to torque tire nuts and bearing axle nut
the point of the revere is the hf torque wrenches will torque LH threaded nuts and bolts
Good info and it applies to all other torque wrenches too, not just the Hazard Fraud. Thanks and God bless!
I wonder which torque wrench they used on that home made submarine which imploded going to see the Titanic wreck?
I'm glad to see that you did not get hurt and I appreciate the testing.
It's better to spring scale. Pulling slowly and checking reading. No danger.
I always warm it up first by going from 20lb/ft til the desired lb/ft on a lug nut. As I recall that's what everyone online says to do, that and to store it at 0.
Store at lowest setting
Just got my 3/8 for free with the current members spend $39.9 and get 1 of 6 free tools. You got to pick from 1/4, 3/8, or 1/2 size.
Glad you didn't get hurt!
The problem is a whole majority of these videos try to make Pittsburgh Pro torque wrenches look great yet if you do a simple search on internet forums like the great Reddit you see they are one of the biggest mistakes you can make using it on your engine bay or sensitive parts in the transmission Etc because they're reliability in plus or minus 3 or 4% is so all over the place