Hi Paul, Nice & informative video. You say in the video that you did a nice job with the soldering between the tracks. I beg to differ. I think that you've done an excellent job. None of the plastic sleepers, around the area where you soldered, were affected by the soldering. I always struggle with that. With my shaky hands, I could never achieve what you have done with the soldering. Well done.
Hi Paul I've being do this for 4 to 5 years and at the moment I know very little but the best advice I got was to run my points dc and my trains dcc. If you only have half a dozen points dcc on a hand held controller is fine. But the more you have the more you have to remember and remembering all the train codes is hard enough. So that advice for my points, signals and lights to be dc was the best I have had. So have a think but you my have already done that. Colin
Don't forget that you can use Alpha to switch control digital point motors - then you have the advantage of digital wiring as well as a switch panel to avoid fiddly handset control :-)
Hi Paul, Just revisited this excellent video as I am now starting to install IP's on my fledgling layout. Very helpful advice, mind you I had a hell of a job adding the IP address to my SignaTrak ACE controller until I got the right sequence, seems you first have to remove the self centering by programming to address 198, then add the address while in RUN mode, then switch to SET mode and operate the point (nothing happens) and then back to RUN mode and the point operates on the address given. You then need to go the Accessory List in System Setup to allocate a name to it and the address is saved! Phew, no wonder it took so long to get my head round it but I know have 2 working installed Cobalt IP's! Got to tackle that double slip next and your video on this will be very helpful. Anyway thanks for this Paul and great to see your subs have leaped from 600 to 1500 since this video - well deserved mate Cheers Steve
Agree Steve. I found out the same re removing self-centering but I thought does that now mean the motor thinks its address is 198. I guess when you go back in to set your own address, it is this address it uses, but how I dont know. It's not clear (to me anyway)
@@paredding Hi, yes the address will be 198 after the self centering so you now need to set your own unique address the same way as you did for the 198, ie enter address in RUN, switch to set, operate the point, back to RUN. Hope this makes sense. Cheers Steve
Just found your channel in my search for a better way of installing Cobalt IP motors. I have found them really hard work, but I now see that if I follow some of your tips it can be made so much easier. Just a simple thing like drilling pilot holes from above rather than trying to do it upside down from beneath the board…sheer genius! Thanks for a very helpful tutorial. Have liked and subscribed. Cheers Keith
Hi Paul, The video was fantastic. I to am about to install Cobalt motors having had no experience what so ever of model railways. My layout was fitted in Covid lockdown. ( I don’t know why). I also will need to change all my points to accommodate the turnouts. If anyone has advice for a novice please feel free to let me know. The only thing the video did not not show well was how to program the point via NCE Power-cab. Regards. Sam
That was very useful . I was at the Alexandra Palace exhibition and chatted to the DCC Concepts guys and have decided to go cobalt and using the Alpha points control system which for a novice makes things easier.
Hi Medway, just thought I'd give you a heads up, the cobalt alpha system is a great concept but does have a few hiccups at times especially if you are going to use a separate bus for the cobalt IP motors. check it all out first before you go fork out the money. Don't get me wrong I love the DCC Concepts gear. But maybe check out some more videos first especially if using a sniffer. cheers Allan
Hi Paul, I am a new subscriber and currently playing catch up with all your vlogs. Great to see the moral and mutual support you are getting from other modellers and armchair observers (like me!). I was last involved “hand-on” with the hobby probably more than thirty-five years ago, in N gauge, but haven’t had my own layout since that time, having moved into military modelling and building RC model ships. So, I greatly enjoy watching others build and develop their model railways and offer support and feedback through the comments sections. My speciality, if you like, is in railway signalling, having spent over 41 years working in the Signalling & Telecoms engineering function of British Rail, Jarvis Rail and then Network Rail before finally retiring in December 2018. I cant see me ever getting back into a big layout, but the like idea of a diorama model. My dream was to build a scale model of Old Oak Common diesel depot during the 70’s in N gauge, but perhaps invariably things happened in life to prevent that, so I remain an armchair modeller (for the time being!). So much has changed in model railways - it never ceases to amaze me the sheer amount and variety of locos and rolling stock you can get nowadays. I am already subscribed to the other modellers you have mentioned and I enjoy all their vlogs immensely. Just as I shall enjoy your build, too. You may find the info on here of use; ua-cam.com/video/ZuR5QTlfOzk/v-deo.html (Network Rail video on switches and crossings.) Best wishes from the Wirral!
Hi Paul. Just to say that thoroughly enjoying your UA-cam channel and learnjng lots from you. It is a SEEP learning curve. Keep up the good work and magbe one day I will have the courage to tackle my own. Just now I am enjoying putting together the models for my layout when it happens and have Paul from Galgorm Hall to thank for that. Like you he is an excellent mentor from whom I am gaining years of experience. Cheers for now and thanks once again. Mike
Anthony Dowden cheers Anthony, will admit not a patient person, but since I've been railway modelling patience seems to have developed thankfully, regards Paul
Hi I am glad you are done a video on these Cobalt motors because when I finally go dcc I want to use the motors to. But I thought when you buy these motors you have to buy the wire that moves the point blades separate (but no it comes in the pack thank god for that) I would have to buy a accessory decoder pack as well (no need for that either) simply connect to the bus wire away you go great. Neil
I've only fitted surface mounted motors so far. I used Hornby for the 00 and Peco for the 009 points. They both use different colour schemes for their wiring! Oddly, the Hornby motor worked better with a Peco switch and CDU , than with the Hornby switch it was made to work with. It is a nice feeling when you switch on the power and they work. It made me wish I'd use them on my Thomas layout. I'm still very much a noob and especially when it comes to soldering. It works but my soldering looks rough. Good job on yours.
Great job this answered some pf the isssues that I will be facing before too long when I get to that stage on my new Layout Build Well done. Nick Australia
Thank you Paul. I'm going to start with my first Cobalt IPs in the next week or so. This was a very helpful video because you were doing it for the first time also.
Congratulations on tackling the wiring of the Electrofrog points as well as installing the point motor. I have always been bemused why it is necessary to snip the jumper wires on the Electrofrog points. Everyone I have see who uses them does what you did. There must be a reason that Peco make them that way. I must try and find out if there are times when they would be used straight out of the packet, maybe when going into a dead-end siding, I don`t know. I have only used Insulfrog points which while not as prototypical as Electrofrog, they work fine for me on my layout. Anyway I will look forward to your next instalment. Cheers Greg
Hi Greg, I did wonder why everyone butchers a point in this way, and if better , why peco do not change the design. Though better they are for it, as the central section of the points is made live including the switchblades, therefore over time it can be hard to clean the inner facing surfaces resulting in feed issues to pickups. his way the dirt is not an issue and they are permanently live. regards Paul
I've been using those cobalt DCC motors and the same DCC operating system for about 10 months now. The motors get easier to install after you've done a dozen or so. I find it easier to fit them by eye rather than the template and also that tiny screw holding the bar needs to be tight as I've had a few where the bar has fell out. Just another tip, when you are wiring under the board you may find it easier using a fine screwdriver to hold back the push fitting whilst inserting the wire 😀
I can finally add something which might come in useful (If you don't know it already!) place a small magnet on the shaft of your screwdriver then you can pick up those tiny little screws easily x
When drilling the large holes on your layout for the point motors I'd recommend using a proper wood bit rather than a spade bit. Wood bits will give more control and not rip chunks out of the plywood like a spade bit will.
Wow, was I feeling your pain. Wiring, especially Micro-wiring mechanisms, is one of my least favorite things in all of DIY/Hobby-dom. I have burned out many a solenoid and chip because of my ham-fistedness. Just make sure you wire your reverses (opposite-facing points) accordingly. I will say, this is one of places I am glad I got into the type of track I use. It's wiring made easy. Keep up the great work. No matter where one's at, someone is behind and learning and someone is ahead, hopefully offering a kind word. 😁😎👍
Don't forget when you do your double slip,opposite ends,frog and motor,ie.left hand motor,right hand frog,and vice versa.Hope that makes sense.Good luck.
Hiya, got to you via Grant and Charlie. Love the work, your voice is restful and your video production values are very good. As a spark, before the problems, two heart attacks and on sticks, may I offer some advice? KISS, no I'm not being forward, not till you've brought me dinner, it stands for keep it simple stupid. DCC is alternating current (AC), all be it square wave, so use the UK colours for that ie brown and blue. The power for street lighting etc is 12v DC the same as a car so use red and black. Simple, easy to see witch is what. I love Charlies' use of tag boards for each buss system, much better than chock block. You can lay all the wiring out with minimal slack, well and logically routed, fixed to the base board and neat and tidy. I never used to use those push in connectors they are prone to give problems. Where you do need to use a crimp connector, crimp it. Ratchet crimp plyers for red, blue and yellow don't cost the earth but crimping is as good as welding, two become one. Use 5amp wire for the buss, 1mm square cross sectional area (csa). Use the wire size you are already using for the drops. I'm looking forward to enjoying your previous films good luck and take care...
Many great Points Steve I might have to use the side by side crimps as soldering under the baseboards will be an issue. Are they the ones you mean? some people refer to them as suitcase connectors. As for wire colour I am rather stuck as I bought 100 meter coils each in black and red so reluctant to throw away and not use them. otherwise many thanks and glad you subbed, regards Paul
@@Sandlingjunctioniya, if you watch Charlie showing DCC wiring you will see the ones I mean. Please don't through the wire but use them for all 12v dc wiring jobs. I think from what I can see they may be a bit lightweight for possible up to 5A DCC use. I would hate to see any problems with warm or hot wires. I've met people who have had problems with witch is witch afterwards. I've done industrial control panel wiring and a standard colour code can save burn outs and non running. I am lucky in that I've done various different jobs as a spark giving me a load of knowledge with witch I hope can help others. Yes soldering under tables is never easy but the security of the joints plus the neatness of cable runs does add a warm feeling around your butt to know your covered. Fault finding is so much easier if you label up like Charlie and others do... The end result is running trains not tracing wires... Although I do love the tec side more than running, weird I know...
Great job, well done it works, so perfect. I used colbolts on the scenic area of my layout and they work so well, bar one which was a dud. I made the school boy error of not removing the springs first though and that wasn't great. For your double slip go to dcc concepts web site and download their double slip schematics as they are invaluable for the layout of the motors and wiring. Also think about the power bus suppressors/terminators dcc concepts sell, they are cheap but if you get a short they should save any damage to your sound locos chips or dcc system. You'll having an amazing layout once finished, Im looking forward to watching your progress, see if I can pick up some tips. Regards Paul
Hi Paul thank you, Chris from DCC sent me the diagrams, very helpful. Double slip is in and working thsnkfully. I'll look into those suppressed, regards Paul
Hi Paul Glad you got those, makes it so much easier. I got mine working but using the Ecos dcc control has been awkward, I have had to install it as to points back to back not as a slip. I should have revisited the double slip after I got the diagrams and rewired it but as its working at the moment I left it. It's on the jobs to do list lol. Really enjoying your updates. Keep up the good work. All the best Paul
A good video, I to use cobalt motors, changed over from Peco. I made exactly the same a mock up board slightly longer which I use as a program track..Yes first time installing was painful, got better as I installed more.
When using the frog wire, does it matter which track bus wire, left or right, goes into which hole? I am concerned about getting the correct polarity to the frog .
I’ve been using this combination on my new layout,double slip went ok,one thing was annoying was the point motors would sometimes loose there address after a short out.My solution was to fit a psx circuit breaker.
Hi, I wouldn't use Cobalt (or Tortoise for that matter) *everywhere* on your layout - far to expensive. Better to use something else for areas that are less in focus; solenoids if needs must, or servo-based solutions. By far cheaper, and, the latter, just as silent id not more silent. And their speed can be controlled, too!
@@Sandlingjunction hi Paul, I haven't homes in on any specific product. I am leaning towards a Bidib system solution, but there are things about that that I don't like, so I am still researching. Main issue of Bidib is that I couldn't find UK resellers or manufacturers...
@@Sandlingjunction Haha you got me researching again - trying to avoid death by Powerpoint ;-) Some links: ua-cam.com/video/8oerWG-G2so/v-deo.html cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/p/262787/2961967.aspx model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/19446
Hi Paul, Nice & informative video. You say in the video that you did a nice job with the soldering between the tracks. I beg to differ. I think that you've done an excellent job. None of the plastic sleepers, around the area where you soldered, were affected by the soldering. I always struggle with that. With my shaky hands, I could never achieve what you have done with the soldering. Well done.
Hi Paul I've being do this for 4 to 5 years and at the moment I know very little but the best advice I got was to run my points dc and my trains dcc. If you only have half a dozen points dcc on a hand held controller is fine. But the more you have the more you have to remember and remembering all the train codes is hard enough. So that advice for my points, signals and lights to be dc was the best I have had. So have a think but you my have already done that. Colin
Hi Colin, yes ill look into that but most likely have another device on some switch board to handle the point in given sectors. Regards Paul
Don't forget that you can use Alpha to switch control digital point motors - then you have the advantage of digital wiring as well as a switch panel to avoid fiddly handset control :-)
Hi Paul, Just revisited this excellent video as I am now starting to install IP's on my fledgling layout. Very helpful advice, mind you I had a hell of a job adding the IP address to my SignaTrak ACE controller until I got the right sequence, seems you first have to remove the self centering by programming to address 198, then add the address while in RUN mode, then switch to SET mode and operate the point (nothing happens) and then back to RUN mode and the point operates on the address given. You then need to go the Accessory List in System Setup to allocate a name to it and the address is saved! Phew, no wonder it took so long to get my head round it but I know have 2 working installed Cobalt IP's! Got to tackle that double slip next and your video on this will be very helpful. Anyway thanks for this Paul and great to see your subs have leaped from 600 to 1500 since this video - well deserved mate
Cheers Steve
Agree Steve. I found out the same re removing self-centering but I thought does that now mean the motor thinks its address is 198. I guess when you go back in to set your own address, it is this address it uses, but how I dont know. It's not clear (to me anyway)
@@paredding Hi, yes the address will be 198 after the self centering so you now need to set your own unique address the same way as you did for the 198, ie enter address in RUN, switch to set, operate the point, back to RUN. Hope this makes sense. Cheers Steve
@@skel3110 Great - thanks v much for confirming. What a palaver...
Just found your channel in my search for a better way of installing Cobalt IP motors. I have found them really hard work, but I now see that if I follow some of your tips it can be made so much easier. Just a simple thing like drilling pilot holes from above rather than trying to do it upside down from beneath the board…sheer genius!
Thanks for a very helpful tutorial.
Have liked and subscribed.
Cheers
Keith
Hi Paul, The video was fantastic. I to am about to install Cobalt motors having had no experience what so ever of model railways. My layout was fitted in Covid lockdown. ( I don’t know why). I also will need to change all my points to accommodate the turnouts. If anyone has advice for a novice please feel free to let me know. The only thing the video did not not show well was how to program the point via NCE Power-cab.
Regards. Sam
Well done
I think you done really well
I will be installing my own very soon so thanks for the real word approach.
Nick Australia
That was very useful . I was at the Alexandra Palace exhibition and chatted to the DCC Concepts guys and have decided to go cobalt and using the Alpha points control system which for a novice makes things easier.
Kevin Carter hi Kevin yes they are all really helpful guys there. Been a great help to me. Regards paul
Hi Medway, just thought I'd give you a heads up, the cobalt alpha system is a great concept but does have a few hiccups at times especially if you are going to use a separate bus for the cobalt IP motors. check it all out first before you go fork out the money. Don't get me wrong I love the DCC Concepts gear. But maybe check out some more videos first especially if using a sniffer.
cheers
Allan
Hi Paul,
I am a new subscriber and currently playing catch up with all your vlogs.
Great to see the moral and mutual support you are getting from other modellers and armchair observers (like me!).
I was last involved “hand-on” with the hobby probably more than thirty-five years ago, in N gauge, but haven’t had my own layout since that time, having moved into military modelling and building RC model ships. So, I greatly enjoy watching others build and develop their model railways and offer support and feedback through the comments sections.
My speciality, if you like, is in railway signalling, having spent over 41 years working in the Signalling & Telecoms engineering function of British Rail, Jarvis Rail and then Network Rail before finally retiring in December 2018.
I cant see me ever getting back into a big layout, but the like idea of a diorama model. My dream was to build a scale model of Old Oak Common diesel depot during the 70’s in N gauge, but perhaps invariably things happened in life to prevent that, so I remain an armchair modeller (for the time being!).
So much has changed in model railways - it never ceases to amaze me the sheer amount and variety of locos and rolling stock you can get nowadays.
I am already subscribed to the other modellers you have mentioned and I enjoy all their vlogs immensely. Just as I shall enjoy your build, too.
You may find the info on here of use; ua-cam.com/video/ZuR5QTlfOzk/v-deo.html (Network Rail video on switches and crossings.)
Best wishes from the Wirral!
Hi Paul. Just to say that thoroughly enjoying your UA-cam channel and learnjng lots from you. It is a SEEP learning curve. Keep up the good work and magbe one day I will have the courage to tackle my own. Just now I am enjoying putting together the models for my layout when it happens and have Paul from Galgorm Hall to thank for that. Like you he is an excellent mentor from whom I am gaining years of experience. Cheers for now and thanks once again. Mike
Excellent. You have great patience and I’m really looking forward to seeing your layout grow. Take care!
Anthony Dowden cheers Anthony, will admit not a patient person, but since I've been railway modelling patience seems to have developed thankfully, regards Paul
It was brilliant. I am learning having just started in the modelling world, and all experiences of others helps me tremendously.
Ian Sowden hi Ian I am so glad you found this video helpful, thanks for the comment, regards Paul
Hi I am glad you are done a video on these Cobalt motors because when I finally go dcc I want to use the motors to.
But I thought when you buy these motors you have to buy the wire that moves the point blades separate (but no it comes in the pack thank god for that) I would have to buy a accessory decoder pack as well (no need for that either) simply connect to the bus wire away you go great. Neil
neil kilford yes the cobalt is simple it seems to fit, I was worried. They are quite noisy that's the only downside I can see. Regards Paul
I've only fitted surface mounted motors so far. I used Hornby for the 00 and Peco for the 009 points. They both use different colour schemes for their wiring! Oddly, the Hornby motor worked better with a Peco switch and CDU , than with the Hornby switch it was made to work with. It is a nice feeling when you switch on the power and they work. It made me wish I'd use them on my Thomas layout. I'm still very much a noob and especially when it comes to soldering. It works but my soldering looks rough. Good job on yours.
Thank you, I love soldering strongly, but still learning, regards Paul
Great job
this answered some pf the isssues that I will be facing before too long when I get to that stage on my new Layout Build
Well done.
Nick
Australia
Thank you for this - really helped me understand what needs to be done and how to do it. Stay safe in these difficult times.
You done a great job, and an excellent video. I'm looking forward to seeing your layout grow. Cheers John.
Hi John thank you kindly for the comment. It's a steep learning curve for sure, regards Paul
Thank you Paul. I'm going to start with my first Cobalt IPs in the next week or so. This was a very helpful video because you were doing it for the first time also.
Good luck Mark, easy a few down the road , cheers Paul
instablaster.
Congratulations on tackling the wiring of the Electrofrog points as well as installing the point motor. I have always been bemused why it is necessary to snip the jumper wires on the Electrofrog points. Everyone I have see who uses them does what you did. There must be a reason that Peco make them that way. I must try and find out if there are times when they would be used straight out of the packet, maybe when going into a dead-end siding, I don`t know. I have only used Insulfrog points which while not as prototypical as Electrofrog, they work fine for me on my layout. Anyway I will look forward to your next instalment. Cheers Greg
Hi Greg, I did wonder why everyone butchers a point in this way, and if better , why peco do not change the design. Though better they are for it, as the central section of the points is made live including the switchblades, therefore over time it can be hard to clean the inner facing surfaces resulting in feed issues to pickups. his way the dirt is not an issue and they are permanently live. regards Paul
Hi Paul, thanks for your reply which makes sense. Cheers Greg
Thanks for a clear explanation as I’m about to tackle the same challenge. Great video. Cheers Jon
Dippertown Junction hi Jon, blind leading the blind as they say, was a steep learning curve, but glad I did the video. Regards Paul .
I've been using those cobalt DCC motors and the same DCC operating system for about 10 months now. The motors get easier to install after you've done a dozen or so. I find it easier to fit them by eye rather than the template and also that tiny screw holding the bar needs to be tight as I've had a few where the bar has fell out. Just another tip, when you are wiring under the board you may find it easier using a fine screwdriver to hold back the push fitting whilst inserting the wire 😀
Scott Martin cheers Scott all good advice, I'll be taking on board cheers, Paul
I can finally add something which might come in useful (If you don't know it already!) place a small magnet on the shaft of your screwdriver then you can pick up those tiny little screws easily x
Wendy S that's a neat trick hun, hadn't realised that one, thanks xx
Wendy S that's a neat trick hun, hadn't realised that one, thanks xx
Wendy S that's a neat trick hun, hadn't realised that one, thanks xx
Hiya, and/or hold the screw with a pair of tweezers...
Or get a screwdriver magnetiser/demagnetiser. Only a few quid.
When drilling the large holes on your layout for the point motors I'd recommend using a proper wood bit rather than a spade bit. Wood bits will give more control and not rip chunks out of the plywood like a spade bit will.
yes I think thats a great tip cheers Paul
@@Sandlingjunction I'd also recommend running the drill the right way !
Wow, was I feeling your pain. Wiring, especially Micro-wiring mechanisms, is one of my least favorite things in all of DIY/Hobby-dom. I have burned out many a solenoid and chip because of my ham-fistedness. Just make sure you wire your reverses (opposite-facing points) accordingly. I will say, this is one of places I am glad I got into the type of track I use. It's wiring made easy. Keep up the great work. No matter where one's at, someone is behind and learning and someone is ahead, hopefully offering a kind word. 😁😎👍
Anthony a great comment my friend. Very true words in conclusion. I must remember them, thanks. Regards Paul
Don't forget when you do your double slip,opposite ends,frog and motor,ie.left hand motor,right hand frog,and vice versa.Hope that makes sense.Good luck.
Bob Watson thanks Bob yes I managed to get my head around that one, regards Paul
Hiya, got to you via Grant and Charlie. Love the work, your voice is restful and your video production values are very good. As a spark, before the problems, two heart attacks and on sticks, may I offer some advice? KISS, no I'm not being forward, not till you've brought me dinner, it stands for keep it simple stupid. DCC is alternating current (AC), all be it square wave, so use the UK colours for that ie brown and blue. The power for street lighting etc is 12v DC the same as a car so use red and black. Simple, easy to see witch is what. I love Charlies' use of tag boards for each buss system, much better than chock block. You can lay all the wiring out with minimal slack, well and logically routed, fixed to the base board and neat and tidy. I never used to use those push in connectors they are prone to give problems. Where you do need to use a crimp connector, crimp it. Ratchet crimp plyers for red, blue and yellow don't cost the earth but crimping is as good as welding, two become one. Use 5amp wire for the buss, 1mm square cross sectional area (csa). Use the wire size you are already using for the drops.
I'm looking forward to enjoying your previous films good luck and take care...
Many great Points Steve I might have to use the side by side crimps as soldering under the baseboards will be an issue. Are they the ones you mean? some people refer to them as suitcase connectors. As for wire colour I am rather stuck as I bought 100 meter coils each in black and red so reluctant to throw away and not use them.
otherwise many thanks and glad you subbed, regards Paul
@@Sandlingjunctioniya, if you watch Charlie showing DCC wiring you will see the ones I mean. Please don't through the wire but use them for all 12v dc wiring jobs. I think from what I can see they may be a bit lightweight for possible up to 5A DCC use. I would hate to see any problems with warm or hot wires. I've met people who have had problems with witch is witch afterwards. I've done industrial control panel wiring and a standard colour code can save burn outs and non running. I am lucky in that I've done various different jobs as a spark giving me a load of knowledge with witch I hope can help others. Yes soldering under tables is never easy but the security of the joints plus the neatness of cable runs does add a warm feeling around your butt to know your covered. Fault finding is so much easier if you label up like Charlie and others do...
The end result is running trains not tracing wires...
Although I do love the tec side more than running, weird I know...
Thank you for making this so simple. A lot of other tutorials skip wiring the frog but you included it which really helped.
Great job, well done it works, so perfect. I used colbolts on the scenic area of my layout and they work so well, bar one which was a dud. I made the school boy error of not removing the springs first though and that wasn't great.
For your double slip go to dcc concepts web site and download their double slip schematics as they are invaluable for the layout of the motors and wiring.
Also think about the power bus suppressors/terminators dcc concepts sell, they are cheap but if you get a short they should save any damage to your sound locos chips or dcc system.
You'll having an amazing layout once finished, Im looking forward to watching your progress, see if I can pick up some tips.
Regards
Paul
Hi Paul thank you, Chris from DCC sent me the diagrams, very helpful. Double slip is in and working thsnkfully. I'll look into those suppressed, regards Paul
Hi Paul
Glad you got those, makes it so much easier. I got mine working but using the Ecos dcc control has been awkward, I have had to install it as to points back to back not as a slip. I should have revisited the double slip after I got the diagrams and rewired it but as its working at the moment I left it. It's on the jobs to do list lol.
Really enjoying your updates. Keep up the good work.
All the best Paul
To remove the little wires on the point, I use a T pin to get at them. It has a small point and sharp.
Not sure what a t pin looks like but will check them out, thanks for the tip, regards Paul
@@Sandlingjunction Check out Amazon - KnitPro T-Pins, Pack of 50, Silver
A good video, I to use cobalt motors, changed over from Peco. I made exactly the same a mock up board slightly longer which I use as a program track..Yes first time installing was painful, got better as I installed more.
Hi Richard, yes glad I did that, the slip is down and as you state will get easier, regards Paul
perfect , as it should be , warts and all .... most of us aren't experts... thanks
When using the frog wire, does it matter which track bus wire, left or right, goes into which hole? I am concerned about getting the correct polarity to the frog .
I think you did a very nice job,,,,it will help me when I start my layout
I’ve been using this combination on my new layout,double slip went ok,one thing was annoying was the point motors would sometimes loose there address after a short out.My solution was to fit a psx circuit breaker.
Blobby Blobster ok I'll keep an eye out for that, thanks for the warning. Regards Paul
Attach a small magnet to your screwdriver to assist with the smaller screws.
On you power cab, you can double click the button, Select Accy instead of putting in the address each time you want to flick the colbalt motor
Megapoints controllers, far better option than colbolt.
Hi, I wouldn't use Cobalt (or Tortoise for that matter) *everywhere* on your layout - far to expensive. Better to use something else for areas that are less in focus; solenoids if needs must, or servo-based solutions. By far cheaper, and, the latter, just as silent id not more silent. And their speed can be controlled, too!
I get that, and am interested on what servo based product that is cheaper and reliable that you would recommend? thank you regards Paul
@@Sandlingjunction hi Paul,
I haven't homes in on any specific product.
I am leaning towards a Bidib system solution, but there are things about that that I don't like, so I am still researching. Main issue of Bidib is that I couldn't find UK resellers or manufacturers...
Ok get that, a friend is using one ill find out which that is and pass it on to you, but think its a surface mount only.
@@argh02
@@Sandlingjunction Haha you got me researching again - trying to avoid death by Powerpoint ;-)
Some links:
ua-cam.com/video/8oerWG-G2so/v-deo.html
cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/p/262787/2961967.aspx
model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/19446
Plus according to Charlie and a lot of others who have been down this road solinoids can sound like a gun going off. @@Sandlingjunction