Used a hacksaw and a utility knife to open the box .Re-soldered the two pins to the motor. 6 years ago and still works fine. Like you said a little time and save thousands. I have been watching your videos for years and they are great. Thanks
Thanks John, you’ve shed light on something that I’ve often heard about but never understood - ‘dry joints’. Hope I won’t need to repair mine but at least now I know I may be able to👍💪
Two excellent informative videos, John. Both my X100 and X150 are still working fine but we did have a Disco 2 a couple of years ago with a similar fault relating to the internal electrical connections to the ABS shuttle valve. We fixed it using the well-known hack of bypassing the internal electrical connectors with a couple of external cables wired directly into the loom outside the ABS box.
For future reference, these washers can be removed using a couple of jewellers screwdrivers levering up each of the one way tangs on one side. They are spring steel so a fair bit of effort is required. New subscribers enjoying your well presented vlogs.
thanks John, that can save a lot of people with older style ABS ecus a lot of money! something just occurred to me, all of this relating to late model XK8 and perhaps XJ8 with modern systems (the 4.2ltr cars). the use of "original" sensors is not required, a good quality aftermarket sensor will works just fine. just be certain to get the proper type (active vs passive). when getting an "open circuit" diagnostic code, the circuit can be tested by plugging in an old style passive sensor. those have very low resistance (about 1kOhm). do not drive, just turn on the ignition. the ecu will measure resistance to the sensors and if the error code now vanishes, we've got a bum connection somewhere, but no broken wiring. this may point to a connector problem, like unseated pins. note- passive sensors may not be used for driving, as the ecu can't read those signal and the generated voltage may be unsuitable for the modern ecu.
For continuity you really should be checking from thr pin to the track that its soldered to. Also use of a decent flux will add the flow and conectivity of the soldering. I sprayed the board with some pcb laquer . A very satisfying job to do and many of todays "mechanics" wouldnt have a clue hiw to fix .👍
On the front wheel sensors it's most likely to be the cables, because steering causes them to flex so much. Just drill a 1" diameter hole with a hole saw and plug it after soldering.
I'm wondering if that board was built around the same time that lead-free solder was being required. It had a reputation for causing cold solder joints like that. In that case, you might have to consider sending the whole unit out for fresh wave soldering?
A bit off-topic, but I noticed the lengthwise striations on your fingernails. I've got them too, and no one (doctor, dermatologist, nutitionist..) seems to know what causes them. Any tips from the UK on that?
I hate ABS and traction systems. Damned expensive, and any properly trained driver can outperform them. Just give me 4 high performance disc brakes and save all the rest for some who wants more complications in their life.
A sign of the times: conformal coating on PECs! A nice, patient, methodical, thorough and skillful repair. Classic TTG.
Used a hacksaw and a utility knife to open the box .Re-soldered the two pins to the motor. 6 years ago and still works fine. Like you said a little time and save thousands. I have been watching your videos for years and they are great. Thanks
Thanks John, you’ve shed light on something that I’ve often heard about but never understood - ‘dry joints’. Hope I won’t need to repair mine but at least now I know I may be able to👍💪
A very good idea, if you already have an open module, is to replace the electrolytic capacitors. When they spill, they do a lot of damage!
Two excellent informative videos, John. Both my X100 and X150 are still working fine but we did have a Disco 2 a couple of years ago with a similar fault relating to the internal electrical connections to the ABS shuttle valve. We fixed it using the well-known hack of bypassing the internal electrical connectors with a couple of external cables wired directly into the loom outside the ABS box.
Good soldering John. Nice job and the close up filming was really good.
For future reference, these washers can be removed using a couple of jewellers screwdrivers levering up each of the one way tangs on one side. They are spring steel so a fair bit of effort is required. New subscribers enjoying your well presented vlogs.
thanks John, that can save a lot of people with older style ABS ecus a lot of money!
something just occurred to me, all of this relating to late model XK8 and perhaps XJ8 with modern systems (the 4.2ltr cars). the use of "original" sensors is not required, a good quality aftermarket sensor will works just fine. just be certain to get the proper type (active vs passive).
when getting an "open circuit" diagnostic code, the circuit can be tested by plugging in an old style passive sensor. those have very low resistance (about 1kOhm). do not drive, just turn on the ignition. the ecu will measure resistance to the sensors and if the error code now vanishes, we've got a bum connection somewhere, but no broken wiring. this may point to a connector problem, like unseated pins. note- passive sensors may not be used for driving, as the ecu can't read those signal and the generated voltage may be unsuitable for the modern ecu.
For continuity you really should be checking from thr pin to the track that its soldered to. Also use of a decent flux will add the flow and conectivity of the soldering. I sprayed the board with some pcb laquer . A very satisfying job to do and many of todays "mechanics" wouldnt have a clue hiw to fix .👍
One resistance measuring tip: measure the resistance of the leads first. Probably 0.2 ohms. The pin should be 0. Great video, btw!
On the front wheel sensors it's most likely to be the cables, because steering causes them to flex so much. Just drill a 1" diameter hole with a hole saw and plug it after soldering.
I'm wondering if that board was built around the same time that lead-free solder was being required. It had a reputation for causing cold solder joints like that. In that case, you might have to consider sending the whole unit out for fresh wave soldering?
Good point! I had this issue with an old nissan throttle body.A real pain re soldering the joints with leaded due to the difference in heat transfer.
A bit off-topic, but I noticed the lengthwise striations on your fingernails. I've got them too, and no one (doctor, dermatologist, nutitionist..) seems to know what causes them. Any tips from the UK on that?
I hate ABS and traction systems. Damned expensive, and any properly trained driver can outperform them. Just give me 4 high performance disc brakes and save all the rest for some who wants more complications in their life.