PNG Coffee Roasting Profile From Drum Roaster To FreshRoast
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- How do I transfer a PNG Coffee Roasting Profile From Drum Roaster To FreshRoast ? Spoiler Alert! The roast on my FreshRoast Tastes practically the same I used a Fresh Roast SR540 with an extension tube, extension screen and 170 grams of a wonderful Papua New Guinea coffee which I have roaster over 60 kilos on my drum roaster. In todays video I work through how I transposed a PNG Coffee Roasting Profile From Drum Roaster To FreshRoast with successful results. I wanted to give a special thanks to Scott O. for sharing his Artisan Aset setup file.
The connector is called a Phidget 1048_2 Temperature Sensor with 4-Inputs and a usb connector. You can find this phidget here www.phidgets.c.... . You will also need to get the data cable which you can find on that site.
The probes found below can be purchased on Amazon and I have provided the affiliate links to those probes.
Long K type probe - 2 mm thick thermocouple that is 300 mm long with a nice 5 foot long wire braided cord with a fork type connectors amzn.to/3zBNFKr
Short K type probe - 2 mm thick and 100 mm long. It has a 6 foot long wire braided cord with a fork type connectors amzn.to/3PEh7Fn
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If your looking for a decent everyday coffee to get started roasting coffee at home, consider this 3 LB Nicaragua fresh green coffee beans (Amazon’s Choice) - amzn.to/3odS4dL
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Fellow Stagg EKG Electric Gooseneck Kettle - amzn.to/3GRoLKE
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Fellow Ode Burr Grinder (Gen 1) - amzn.to/3GqkQmr
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Baratza Encore Burr Grinder amzn.to/2YgfJQe
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I roast coffee on my Mill City 500 gram commercial coffee roaster every week. I also use a Behmor and a hot air popcorn popper to roast some great coffee. Join me as we roast, brew and cup coffee every week at home.
Do you roast coffee at home? Do you craft single serve coffee and if so, what brewing method do you like? Please share your comments and be sure to like this video!
About Me:
I am a coffee enthusiast who roasts coffee from home on my sample size commercial drum coffee roaster. Coffee has been in my life for over 40 years, whether I was selling it or roasting it, I want to share my passion with you.
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very informative. I now have the 540, so I'm going to follow your lead and aim for a 4 minute dry time and 3 minute to first crack. thanks!
Pima, Assuming you are roasting a pretty medium/high density coffee that is about the same bean size, same moisture level, same ambient room temperature and same electrical current coming to your fresh roast you should see similar results. There may be other variables i missed. My point in mentioning this is you may need to vary a little, making adjustments to stay on track with your times. Let me know how it goes!
@@VirtualCoffeeLab thanks!
Enjoyed your video again Mike
Thanks again Shane. I love the PNG and have really enjoyed using different roasters! It has been a great learning experience.
I greatly appreciate your videos and clear, informative content -thank you! Question: what is the temperature variation of the unit itself vs your inlet probe?
Hi Kasey, Thanks for watching and for your encouraging comments. That is a great question. I didn't even mess with the temp dial on the fresh roast because I was using artisan to log temps plus I was pretty busy just managing the roast along with marking the events in artisan. I will see if I can check and then follow up. You have an air roaster I assume. How are you tracking temps?
@@VirtualCoffeeLab I'm using similar setup - a 540 with extension tube. I've only been roasting for about 3 years, but just use the built in temperature gauge as a reference, while especially watching my timer, sight and smell to roast. I use the lap feature on my iPhone in stopwatch mode to track phases (dry/brown/development). A very simple novice roaster, but still learning and growing.
@@kaseycarter230 oh I like that idea of the lap timer, I’ve just been using the stop watch.
Is your coffee GCX-7438 "Papua New Guinea Korgua Peaberry" from Sweet Marias?
We purchased this P# 19238 PAPUA NEW GUINEA Riverside Mill - Kabiufa - Red Cherry (Ecotact) coffee and the details can be seen here:
www.cafeimports.com/north-america/offerings?keyword=kabiufa&tab=archive&archive=undefined&view=beanology.view.riverside-mill-kabiufa-red-cherry-ecotact-19238
One trick learned accidentally: tilt the unit back with a 1/2" block placed under the control panel and get amazing circulation with zero chugging.
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to try that!
@@VirtualCoffeeLab It's a little top heavy with the extension tube, but slightly tilting it back produces a really smooth bean circulation. The other mod/hack that was super helpful was using a Dremel to cut off the small lip on the upper portion of the bottom piece of the chaff collector. This improves the chaff being able to go in between the basket and the lid portion and into the basket itself, rather than clogging up in the center. This is especially valuable for the increased batch size using the extension tube and natural processed beans.
Well, I finally got my SR800 and it will be here on Friday 5.17.24. The day after I bought mine, they sold out again. I finished my home drum roaster yesterday and have done two batches of half pound each. It came out really well. Still some learning to go. I did taste the light roast this evening and it did have the sweet flavors. The second roast I did today darker and will give it a taste in a few days.
Congrats on the new roaster Jerry!
Love your channel. Watching from Goroka, Papua New Guinea🇵🇬🇵🇬🇵🇬
Thanks for watching. I occasionally watch the "Missionary Bush Pilot" youtube channel and he is based out of Goroka and travels to small remote villages in the mountains for deliver supplies and even pick up coffee. Pretty cool. I really enjoyed the PNG coffee last year. It is one of my favorites.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab Goroka is the hub of PNG Coffee exports. Most of the coffee exporters are based in Goroka. I recently subscribed to you channel. By the way, I appreciate watching your channels because it helps a lot also
in promoting the PNG Coffee. 🙏🙏🙏🙏🇵🇬🇵🇬🇵🇬
One of the things that confused me as a beginner is that the temperature on the SR540 is the air inlet temperature, and NOT the bean temperature. As such, it's always well out ahead of the bean temp. So my machine is reading 450-460 at first crack, which is much higher than the bean temperature. Not having a temporature probe for the beans, I have to go by time and color in conjunction with the air temp displayed on the machine. I kept seeing temperatures on people's profiles for the beans at first crack, and wondering why I was seeing something so different. It's all clear now, and I dont think I even need a probe for bean temp, though I'm still considering getting one just for fun.
Thanks for your comment and for being a subscriber. Yep, most "appliance" type air roasters either display the inlet temperature OR no temperature at all. You won't ever get an accurate bean temperature using one of these roasters. The roasting chamber is small and the heat source is too close to any probe placement within the bean mass. Color, smell, and event times are the measurements I use to determine roast progress. You didn't mention events BUT I think this is a really important measuring device to help you time your roast. Temperatures in an air roaster are deceiving and don't really correlate to reality BUT with experience, I have been able to use them as another measurement gauge. It sounds like you have too.
When I hooked up my sr540 to artisan I found it frustrating and distracting. I will be doing it again in the future as I experiment with heat management to find the best method to achieve a nice downward ROR during browning and development.
One thing I have done that helped me with bean color is to keep some beans from a "golden roast" that tasted amazing. The PNG beans still sit in a small jar as a reference to color. Anytime I will be roasting a similar process and bean structure I reference these beans to remind me of the color. It's best to do this with a similar origin, process and sized beans.
I hope you enjoy your SR540. They are nice roasters. Thanks for watching & sharing!
I was curious about 18:05 not marking end of FC - I don’t think you mentioned it in video, are you dropping roast at that specific temp even if 1C still happening or just don’t worry about end of FC? Great video, very helpful. I have SR800 with extension tube and razzo chaff extension
Hi Mark, thanks for watching and your comment. I don’t worry about marking FC end. This roast did finish first crack but I have dropped roasts while there were some cracks still finishing up.
I’m this specific video I was aiming for a development time of 1:30 a 1:45 to match my drum roast development time. Temps won’t match up between different roasters so event times, color and taste are what I am using
Great job, I also use a fresh roast, and artisan. I use phidgets and probes. I am curious how you link your probes to your computer? If you use phidget, which ones. Your set up seems more fluid than mine. I appreciate your passion and what you are doing for amateur roasters everywhere
Hi Troy,
Thanks for watching and for your kind words. I'm glad you have enjoyed my content. I am using a connector called a Phidget 1048_2 Temperature Sensor with 4-Inputs and a usb connector. You can find this phidget here www.phidgets.com/?tier=3&cati... . You will also need to get the data cable which you can find on that site.
The probes found below can be purchased on Amazon and I have provided the affiliate links to those probes.
Long K type probe - 2 mm thick thermocouple that is 300 mm long with a nice 5 foot long wire braided cord with a fork type connectors amzn.to/3zBNFKr
Short K type probe - 2 mm thick and 100 mm long. It has a 6 foot long wire braided cord with a fork type connectors amzn.to/3PEh7Fn
Great video! Thanks for all the useful information!!
On another's note:
Do you have any tips for getting the cocoa flavor notes out of coffee I roast in my behmor? I have found beautiful success in the past with a timore leste coffee in my popcorn popper. But since moving to my behmor there is no real cocoa notes. It seems to be flat or harshly bitter from tipping and bits of scorching.
Hello Triston. Congrats on your Behmor coffee roaster. I have used mine for many years and it has given me some wonderful roasts. I would like to provide a simple and quick answer but there are too many possible reasons why you are experiencing flat, harshly bitter coffee with roasting defects. It would be helpful to have a little more information so I have a few questions for you. I can also offer some help based on what you shared so far. Please reply back to these questions:
How much coffee are you roasting per batch?
How long does it take to roast your coffee?
How dark are you roasting?
Are you using the manual mode or an auto profile?
Alright, now for some initial thoughts on your problem.
Roasting Defects -
You are experiencing tipping and scorching because the beans are being exposed to high temps early in the roast. It sounds like the coffee you are roasting is a lower density coffee grown at a lower elevation. Because the bean is softer it is more prone to roasting defects.
You can reduce these defects by turning up your drum speed to high on the Behmor. You can also pre-heat your behmor with the chaff collector inside but not the drum. Preheat twice to 250 degrees and then don't use 100% power (P1 auto mode) or P5 Manual Mode but instead use 75% power for the first 2 minutes. This should help reduce the roasting defects.
Batch Size -
Not sure if you are tying to roast 1 lb of coffee per batch but if you are don't. Roast 1/2 lb per batch and set your roaster at the 1 lb setting.
I will wait to hear back with your answers to my questions. Then we can talk a little more and get you pointed in the right direction. By the way, watch this video ua-cam.com/video/jm5MsA8poJs/v-deo.html to see some of the things I mention here in this comment. Don't focus on artisan temps. I also display the B temp once the roast gets moving.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab thanks for the info! In answer to your questions:
I roast 226g (1/2lb) on manual mode.
My typical goal is to begin seeing some wrinkles in the coffee, I think that is considered a medium roast.
With this coffee I get a 10:30 total roast time. And a 9:30-9:45 first crack. After a minute I open the door and remove the coffee to cool it externally.
My typical roast I will pre-heat twice like you mentioned and then I would place the drum in and press p5 (100% power manual mode). At the sound of first crack I press p4 and typically develop for 1:00 but that depends on the speed of the development.
Thanks for the info. I think my comments on roast defects and the coffee being a medium density are still correct.
Try these changes and see how that impacts the taste.
I would use p4 power setting for the first 2 minutes and then go to p5 until you reach end of dry. What would your B temp be? I like to get up to 315-320 by the time the fan turns on. Then you will see your b temp decline. After the fan turns off move to p4 and allow your b temp to slowly decline. By that time you should be close to first crack. Once first crack starts, decide if it is cracking fast or slowly. If fast, lower temp to p3. If slow, leave it at p4. Allow about 1/2 to 2 minutes for development. For more chocolate you probably do want to go to p3 as long as crack doesn’t stall. By the way, keep your drum speed on high.
You should track times and temps as well as events for each roast. This way you will be able to see how the changes impact your roast. Let me know what happens.
Ok, your development is too short on the roast you shared. Forgot to mention that. Pay attention to temps because you should lower power as you roll into first crack as long as you don’t stall the roast.
I have 2 sr540’s and they roast similar but different. Your profile is almost identical, time wise, as mine for the same results. I use the machines temp and a dual temp meter with a razzo 9.5” chamber and use razzo’s bean probe port and exhaust temp from inside chaff collector as guides. I really appreciate the info of the complete roast tracking with artisan. I feel reassured, and I am achieving great results with this profile. I do tweak and adjust on the fly with different coffees but the profile stays pretty much the same. Thanks again for sharing your time and passion.
Robert, is one of your FR units older and showing lower temps? I'm interested to hear your response on that. I'm glad you are getting great results with the almost identical profile. As you said, there is always a little tweaking. Thanks for your comments and for watching!
@@VirtualCoffeeLab
I bought my first one a little over 3 years ago and the second 2 years later. When I ordered the second one I sent the first one back to be checked out because I thought it was losing power and operating inconsistently. I bought a kilowatt meter and it turned out the circuit I was using had gotten weaker and would not let the roaster work properly. The internals were extremely dirty do to the way I use it in a box in cold weather but the unit checked out perfectly. They cleaned the insides and recommended a compressed air cleaning, through upper and lower vents, occasionally. I do mine about every three months. The funny thing is the older one has a stronger fan and heater and seems to get hotter than the new one although when asked they said it was exactly the same. The older ones internal readout does seem to read lower but it also seems more accurate. BTW the new one was a factory refurbished so I can not compare it as being new. They both work great though and the kilowatt meter is highly recommended. It helps with checking your mains as well as your circuit, and load drop, which make the units act differently each time you use them even on the same circuit. My mains fluctuate as much as 3 volts day to day and at different times of the day and drop more on one circuit than another. Getting lengthy, sorry. Thanks again!
Very interesting. That reinforces my comments about temps when comparing the same roasters. Thank you for elaborating and sharing your experience!
I love the probes and screen in the lid. That roast looked really good.
What is the cost of that whole probe and dongle setup?
Wow! The 540 is massively different in power/heat than the 800 I have. It's so difficult to extend the dry phase to 4 minutes or beyond even at 1 power setting and 6 fan. I have to drop the fan to 6 and sometimes 5 to keep the coffee from lofting up badly.
I have the extender tube in my 800. The only upgrade to it.
Hi Jason. Are you using the Razzo extension tube? I have heard others comment about that. It seems to use thicker glass which retains more heat. Also, the chaff screen extension helps the roaster exhaust a little of that air.
Here is the stuff i am using. These are my links from a video i did for the behmor but i use this setup for the fresh roast as well.
The connector is called a Phidget 1048_2 Temperature Sensor with 4-Inputs and a usb connector. You can find this phidget here www.phidgets.com/?tier=3&cati... . You will also need to get the data cable which you can find on that site.
The probes found below can be purchased on Amazon and I have provided the affiliate links to those probes. I may receive a fee if you buy those using that amazon link. It doesn't cost you anything extra but it does support this channel.
Long K type probe - 2 mm thick thermocouple that is 300 mm long with a nice 5 foot long wire braided cord with a fork type connectors amzn.to/3zBNFKr
Short K type probe - 2 mm thick and 100 mm long. It has a 6 foot long wire braided cord with a fork type connectors amzn.to/3PEh7Fn
@@VirtualCoffeeLab Thank you so much for the info and product links!
I'm using the same kind of extension tube you're using. I may need to get or make the chaff extension screen. 🤔
Hi Mike, I have a question about Artisan when I am done with a roast I have been saving the profile in a PDF on my computer I put these in a folder. How do you have a prior roast profile in the back ground on Artisan when roasting? I have been opening the PDF on my computer and looking at the PDF while roasting. I have been trying to figure that out can't find any info on how to do that. Thanks.
Hi Frank. After you have finished your roast and you click the "stop" button, you will see your roast summary with the phase percentages at the top. Then click File > Save As and name your file. Then save it to the folder you want to reference your past roasts. Now that you have a saved file and you want to use that roast in the background, reset artisan, click Roast > Background and then look for the "load" button. Clicking that will open up a window where you can go select the file you saved in your roast folders.
Two things to know. Once you "save as" for that first roast, every roast after that will default to that folder and you simply save. Artisan assigns a weird name to the file and I use most of that BUT I remove the last 4 characters and type my own file name. I think the other parts of the file name are a date stamp. The other thing to know if that background will always appear when you roast, even a new roast. To remove the background go back to the the background dialog box and near the "load" button you will see "delete". Delete that background and select a new one or leave it blank. Hitting delete won't delete the actual artisan profile, just the background.
Here is a helpful video related to backgrounds. ua-cam.com/video/3Bot-QDL2t8/v-deo.html
@@VirtualCoffeeLab Thank You for all the help..
Nice timing on the video drop. I had just returned from shopping, packed it all away, brewed up a fresh cup and sat down with a nice piece of banana & nut loaf, when the vid came up on my feed. Very pleasant and informative 23 minutes. Cheers. 🙂
Thanks for watching @McKnottee. Have a great week roasting!
Would you be able to share your artisan settings file?
Mitch, reach out to my using the email me button on the "about" tab of my youtube channel or go to my virtual coffee lab facebook page and try to connect with me there. Be sure to let me know what type of roaster you are using and how you are connecting.
Can you share the setup file or open and show your settings? I like the buttons better than the sliders I got from another setup file. Do you know how to create the buttons? (I’m new to artisan)
Hi Dan. I don't have a way to share it here on UA-cam. Sorry about that. You should check out the artisan help page found here artisan-scope.org/docs/events/
@@VirtualCoffeeLab No problem… it took me a while but I figured it out.👍🏻
I'm interested in the probes you are using and are they connected to a phiget then to your artisan? I miss using artisan, I had it set up with my hive.
Hi Marc. Here is the stuff i am using. These are my links from a video i did for the behmor but i use this setup for the fresh roast as well.
The connector is called a Phidget 1048_2 Temperature Sensor with 4-Inputs and a usb connector. You can find this phidget here www.phidgets.com/?tier=3&cati... . You will also need to get the data cable which you can find on that site.
The probes found below can be purchased on Amazon and I have provided the affiliate links to those probes. I may receive a fee if you buy those using that amazon link. It doesn't cost you anything extra but it does support this channel.
Long K type probe - 2 mm thick thermocouple that is 300 mm long with a nice 5 foot long wire braided cord with a fork type connectors amzn.to/3zBNFKr
Short K type probe - 2 mm thick and 100 mm long. It has a 6 foot long wire braided cord with a fork type connectors amzn.to/3PEh7Fn
@@VirtualCoffeeLab thx Mike I appreciate that will definitely check it out!
Another great video! I wanted to get a FreshRoast, but living in China presents a problem not to mention the 220v here. So I did the next best thing. I bought a 1400w popcorn popper and converted it to roast coffee. I use Artisan and a manual digital control on the heating element. I have a probe on the inlet for ET and one at the top of the green beans at the start of the roast with set at a 90 degree angle. I tried to control the fan but it's too easy to make a mistake so I opt for full power on the fan from start to finish and just control the heating element to follow background profiles I have been developing over the last 2 year of roasting this way.
I really appreciate you videos and like following your progress over the last couple of year. I would like to make a suggestion, if I can be so bold. Not sure if it is something you can do, but I believe it would make your videos more accessible. Having grown up in the US I never understood the metric system, but living in China for the last 10 years I've become a convert. Every time I watch one of your videos I get out my calculator and do the conversions from Fahrenheit to Celsius to compare against my Artisan roasts. I was thinking there must be others that do the same thing. So, I was wondering if when you edit your videos you might think about including a table with time/temp of DE, FC, Drop in F & C at the end of maybe overlaid on the profile.
Thanks again!
PS: My current roast profile for a Brazil and Yirgacheffe I've been roasting are surprising close to your PNG times and temperatures.
Thank you for sharing your experience creating your hot air roaster Daniel. Pretty cool. I always forget about the Metric audience. I realize that many are from other countries than the USA. There are some videos where I display both but when using artisan I seem to forget. I will try and make a better effort to remember. Artisan has a "converter" after the roast so I could reference those temps while I talk and then show them on the converted roast after. I don't think I could set up a hotkey to switch back and forth BUT I will check. Thank you for that reminder.
Where did you get the long thermocouple that you used for the ET?
Thanks for watching. Go to the video and open the video description. I have links there to buy them. They are affiliate links so i might get a commission but it doesn't cost you anything extra.
Thanks for being patient with me. I see you are using a 2x300mm thermocouple for the ET probe. I have a Fresh Roast SR800. When I measure my OEM extension tube from the top of the unmodified chaff collector to the bottom of the base, it is 335mm! This is after I made sure that the extension tube was inserted all the way down into the base. I currently have a 4x300mm thermocouple (extending 20mm above the top of the chaff collector) for my BT probe, it just touches the top of a 7oz green coffee load. Looks like I'm going to have to find a longer one for my ET probe.
No problem Robert. Yes, the SR800 is a taller tube than my 540. If you plan on the same probe placement you will need a longer probe. The tip of the probe goes inside the bottom holes to get the most accurate inlet temperature reading.
Really great video sir. I keep debating the Artisan / probe add. I’m still getting used to everything but I’m pretty happy with my results so far. I am finding that my roasts, specifically first crack, are happening farther into the process than I think I would like. Do you ever charge your SR or do you think it doesn’t make a difference? I’ve been charging mine to a temp of about 350.
I don’t think it really makes a difference if you charge or not. The roaster has plenty of energy to get your coffee dry. I think you just need to apply more energy upfront. Don’t be so concerned about the length of the dry phase. The fresh roast, being an air roaster, really helps the heat penetrate the bean.
As for artisan, that is up to you. You have already demonstrated your roasts taste pretty good. If you pay attention to your first crack time and development time and the ending temp of your roast you should be in good shape.
Interesting comparison. I use an SR800 with ext tube and chaff collector extension, so I see similar results except I normally roast around 220 g. My roast times are slightly longer (~30 sec) than yours, reaching around City + to your City in the vid. I recently had issues with my unit and had to send the base to be refurbed. Just outstanding service from Home Roasters getting it back to me quickly. When I did my first roast back, I noticed the temperature readouts were very different from what I was used to seeing prior. Obviously the temp probe was in a slightly different position than before. The SR temp probe essentially measures inlet temp. I had to run roughly 30° hotter than before to achieve the drying, 1st crack, and end color benchmarks that I had previously hit, all in keeping with the phase % I have established from watching your videos. The fan and air settings were virtually identical to before. Only the temps were different. That said, temps are valuable only if you can relate them to a visual (dry end, end color) or auditory (FC) attribute. When that relationship has been established, temps are a reliable benchmark in themselves.
I agree to your statement ...
"temps are valuable only if you can relate them to a visual (dry end, end color) or auditory (FC) attribute. When that relationship has been established, temps are a reliable benchmark in themselves"
This is sooooo important. I have people ask for a temperature for a specific event and it isn't that straight forward. Learn to know when to call the events, associate the temps with those events and then you have more information to "anticipate" and even control when those events take place.....
Awesome comment J. Great stuff.
I use a sr800 with artisan. My results following temp profile goals from drum roasters is nearly identical to yours. IMO the beans seem under roasted using these goals. I have better results raising the end temp to 440 or 450 F and it helps to reduce the air flow so that big pockets of air are not moving through the beans. Doing this allows more hot air to contact the bean surface heating them more evenly. It also seems that the "bean temperature" is artificially raised due to large pockets of hot air. Fluid bed roasters have less heat transfer to the beans compared to drum roasters. I really like your ability to compare the results of the fluid bed roaster to your drum roaster. Your drum roaster is the gold standard roaster, although fluid bed roasters can produce really good coffee. In conclusion, profiles for drum roasters can not be exactly replicated for fluid bed roasters to produce the same results, but if you like the results and can't tell a difference then what difference does it make?
Hi Paul. Thanks for your comments and for watching my video!
I wanted to comment on your statement about "seem under roasted using these goals" because many home roasters are focusing on temperatures when sharing a profile. In my video and others I share the challenges of trying to compare temperatures from roaster to roaster. In this video I mention that i was trying to use data I can transfer from my drum profile to the fresh roast sr540. I concluded the only valid, helpful data I can apply are my event times. I used my time in the middle/browning phase and my time in the 3rd phase of development while roasting. The temperatures in my drum profile can't be used for the fresh roast or even another drum because they won't be the same. I believe you are experiencing that when you compare temperatures and then get the underdeveloped result. If you look at the roast times for your undeveloped coffee, specifically the time in the middle phase and the time in development I think they will be different. Was there a specific under developed roast you were talking about or a general observation with past roasts?
I definitely agree that if you like the results and or can't tell the difference between the drum roast and the results you get with the air roaster, it really doesn't make a difference.
Thanks again for sharing Paul.
Is that a Natural coffee?
Great video…would like to see you do the same bean with the Razzo extension tube
Hi Ken, No this is a washed coffee. We purchased this P# 19238 PAPUA NEW GUINEA Riverside Mill - Kabiufa - Red Cherry (Ecotact) coffee and the details can be seen here:
www.cafeimports.com/north-america/offerings?keyword=kabiufa&tab=archive&archive=undefined&view=beanology.view.riverside-mill-kabiufa-red-cherry-ecotact-19238
I'm pleased with the standard extension tube performance. Curious, how might I benefit using the Razzo ? I know it is popular among FR users.
Sorry, I thought you had been sent a Razzo to test out, only advantage to you would probably be the port for thermocouple and maybe a little better air control due to design,,,,I can roast 1/2 lb with no problem also….
Looks like they sold out of your good coffee
One other thing I do with my Razzo, Is rotating it during the roast ,,seems to help with consistency,,,,it rotates easily
I like the port on the Razzo!
Do you rotate because the air is stronger in one part of the base than another?
I'd love to see some roasts on a Gene Cafe roaster
Unfortunately I don’t have plans to roast on a Genie Cafe unless someone has an old one laying around that are not using. Sorry about that
Nice video Mike and very important for me at this time. Sorry for the late post. I am particularly interested in the video but not because I own or want to get an SR540; I'm quite happy with the roasters I have now! 🙂 I'm interested because for a given coffee, I want to learn how to work with a roast profile for that same coffee from someone else's machine. I used to think that although other machines might measure temperatures differently than mine does (and most do), and their heating method (fluid bed, solid metal drum, mesh drum, etc.) might be different from mine (and it sometimes is), and their machine capacity might be different from mine (and many are), I could not get much information from their profile. But now I think I am wrong about that. And I hope to find things I can determine for my roast from another roaster's profile. This might take a while, but I think it's gonna be fun!
I’m still learning about this as well. I’ve noticed batch size and roaster size seem to really skew temperatures. I’m currently trying to roast the png on the popper and it is extremely difficult to control and temps are all over the place and at this point very different than my other roasters. Like you, it might take a while to figure out but it will be fun along the way!