The dual brakes are awesome with a snowblower on a slant. When i started blowing with my 1872 it was night and day for traction and not sliding off to the side vs my 1811
Agreed - snow and ice are where the dual brakes really shine. I've never used a blower on any of my tractors, but have used several 54" blades over the years. If you hit a snow drift with the blade angled to one side, there goes your steering - at that point, the brake pedals are your only help...especially if you're on the ice.
As someone who has a tractor with the 2000 rpm pto, I can confirm it’s not worth the hassle. I got lucky because I was able to pick up the whole kit (3-point, pto, tiller) as a package deal. Also, as a side note, I almost never use my split brakes.
We put a 2000 RPM PTO on one of my uncle's JD 318's a few years ago so he could operate a 48" mechanical tiller (both kits are getting harder to find these days), but I'm not looking forward to the day something in the PTO gearbox breaks or wears out - the parts to fix it are pretty much non-existent.
There's only one official "PA Plow Day" and it was held this weekend in Watsontown, PA. I am probably going to go to the South Jersey one next weekend but not sure if I'll be bringing a tractor to plow with.
Very touch to get parts to repair. Looks like my 2004 cub cadet lt1018 lawn tractor of my engine is done. The counter weight slims or metal thing on the crankshaft the back end it shear off. Not cracks in the block. The camshaft hold is crack. The cam itself with the decompression is not damage which I heard on another UA-camr said B&S cam is back order. Intake push rod is bent. The engine is 20yrs old. I don’t know if I can get a new briggs engine . Like a 19hp. The concern is the mounting holes needs to be exact to bolt on. Worry about horse power output. This may cost me $1000 or so depending on which website to buy.
The Intek engine in that LT1018 should be similar to what Briggs is producing today - the design hasn't changed much. Personally I'd throw that engine in the garbage and replace it with a Kawasaki FS or FX series - a new Briggs engine is probably going to bend push rods just like your old one did.
WHAT EVER HAPPENED TO THAT 1977 Semi that you guys purchased 5 years ago that you guys said that. It wasn't used to shifting with the Jake brake. Whatever happened to that semi??????
Running into issues. The breaks on my 1811 are so worn out you push the pedal and it doesn’t hold at all the springs don’t even get tight and they are at max adjustment. Anything I can do to fix it ? Is there a break pad kit ? It has the disc breaks on each side.
Cub Cadet discontinued the brake parts for these tractors years ago, but you might be able to find NOS brake pads from a vendor like Cub Cadet Specialties or IH Cub Cadet Warehouse. Worst case scenario, there are plenty of late 82 series (1210/11, 1810/11/12 etc) out there that can be bought cheap for parts donors.
The early IH-built 782's had the Kohler KT17 engine and a cast iron differential housing with aluminum axle tubes. The cast iron differential housing was replaced with an aluminum one in mid-1983 once CCC/MTD had taken over and used up all the remaining cast iron ones. The only major difference between the later CCC (MTD)-built 782's (like mine), and your 1811, is the change from the Kohler KT17 to the Magnum 18 engine, and the wiring harness was updated accordingly (old engine used points/condenser, new engine uses a magneto). The 1811 also has a low oil warning light on the dash, unlike the 782. Otherwise they are identical tractors.
nice job.
Awesome machine Mike! Looking forward to plow day footage, hopefully things start drying up and ground conditions are good
Thanks! A little wet right now but I'm sure the fields will be dry for Saturday.
The dual brakes are awesome with a snowblower on a slant. When i started blowing with my 1872 it was night and day for traction and not sliding off to the side vs my 1811
Agreed - snow and ice are where the dual brakes really shine. I've never used a blower on any of my tractors, but have used several 54" blades over the years. If you hit a snow drift with the blade angled to one side, there goes your steering - at that point, the brake pedals are your only help...especially if you're on the ice.
As someone who has a tractor with the 2000 rpm pto, I can confirm it’s not worth the hassle. I got lucky because I was able to pick up the whole kit (3-point, pto, tiller) as a package deal. Also, as a side note, I almost never use my split brakes.
We put a 2000 RPM PTO on one of my uncle's JD 318's a few years ago so he could operate a 48" mechanical tiller (both kits are getting harder to find these days), but I'm not looking forward to the day something in the PTO gearbox breaks or wears out - the parts to fix it are pretty much non-existent.
@@MichaelTJD60 If something ever broke on mine, it would get put on a pallet and tucked away into a corner of the shed as a keepsake
Does that tractor have a Drive shaft disengage like the older 140's did? I ask because I see a pedal on the opposite side of the brake pedals.
What PA plow day are you going to
Are you going to the South Jersey gas engine Club plow day because I am planing to go
There's only one official "PA Plow Day" and it was held this weekend in Watsontown, PA. I am probably going to go to the South Jersey one next weekend but not sure if I'll be bringing a tractor to plow with.
Ok I am going to go to it with my cub cadet 104 pulling tractor with a 10 inch plow.
Very touch to get parts to repair. Looks like my 2004 cub cadet lt1018 lawn tractor of my engine is done. The counter weight slims or metal thing on the crankshaft the back end it shear off. Not cracks in the block.
The camshaft hold is crack.
The cam itself with the decompression is not damage which I heard on another UA-camr said B&S cam is back order. Intake push rod is bent. The engine is 20yrs old. I don’t know if I can get a new briggs engine . Like a 19hp. The concern is the mounting holes needs to be exact to bolt on. Worry about horse power output. This may cost me $1000 or so depending on which website to buy.
The Intek engine in that LT1018 should be similar to what Briggs is producing today - the design hasn't changed much. Personally I'd throw that engine in the garbage and replace it with a Kawasaki FS or FX series - a new Briggs engine is probably going to bend push rods just like your old one did.
WHAT EVER HAPPENED TO THAT 1977 Semi that you guys purchased 5 years ago that you guys said that. It wasn't used to shifting with the Jake brake. Whatever happened to that semi??????
Running into issues. The breaks on my 1811 are so worn out you push the pedal and it doesn’t hold at all the springs don’t even get tight and they are at max adjustment. Anything I can do to fix it ? Is there a break pad kit ? It has the disc breaks on each side.
Cub Cadet discontinued the brake parts for these tractors years ago, but you might be able to find NOS brake pads from a vendor like Cub Cadet Specialties or IH Cub Cadet Warehouse. Worst case scenario, there are plenty of late 82 series (1210/11, 1810/11/12 etc) out there that can be bought cheap for parts donors.
I see you 😂
Whats the difference with a 782 and the 18xx models? I still mow with my 1811.
The early IH-built 782's had the Kohler KT17 engine and a cast iron differential housing with aluminum axle tubes. The cast iron differential housing was replaced with an aluminum one in mid-1983 once CCC/MTD had taken over and used up all the remaining cast iron ones. The only major difference between the later CCC (MTD)-built 782's (like mine), and your 1811, is the change from the Kohler KT17 to the Magnum 18 engine, and the wiring harness was updated accordingly (old engine used points/condenser, new engine uses a magneto). The 1811 also has a low oil warning light on the dash, unlike the 782. Otherwise they are identical tractors.
@@MichaelTJD60thanks for the great information!
Get a mower deck and make mowing videos please
Hopefully soon!