The holes for resin fixings should normally be drilled to 95mm depth (not deeper). The concrete should ideally be something like 150mm (6") thick. Anything around 100mm thick, and certainly anything less, is likely to have the drill break through the bottom of the concrete and then you have a problem with the resin having a chance to ooze (technical term!) away into any voids below. The nominal "Brick Wall/Mediocre Concrete" fitting kit is potentially an alternative option, then, as the holes don't need to go so deep and that uses shield anchors (aka expanding bolts) to fit the anchor instead, and they don't need the bottom of the holes to be sealed. Another option can be to drill a larger diameter hole (16mm, compared with the normal 12mm diameter) and to fit resin sleeves, which we can supply separately. The sleeves are like plastic mesh cylinders. You then use injection resin from a cartridge and squirt the resin into the middle of the sleeve. The sleeve constrains the resin around where it is needed. I.e. the sleeve goes into a 16mm diameter hole and the resin goes into the sleeve, and the bolt goes down the middle. The other options are to cut out a section of the floor, dig down, and to fit the anchor as you lay fresh concrete, filling up the hole, or simply to find another position to fit the anchor. Any anchor can only be as good as the substrate where it is fitted, so it is usually a mistake to fit it to something that is thin or weak. (And apologies for such a slow reply.)
The resin fixings don't really pull the anchor down onto the floor. It should be close, for sure, as you wouldn't want a thief being able to get a lever under the base plate in an attempt to prise it up out of the floor, but it won't be massively tight. Providing it is close to the floor, without a significant gap, that is fine.
We have a distributor in the States: Please visit www.Lockitt.com They hold stock and can ship much more cheaply than us sending something over the Pond :-)
We've had a few people that have got a bit involved in the fitting process and forgotten to put the 'D' shackle in place before using the resin to fix the base plate to the floor. This is unfortunate, especially if you don't notice until the resin has set! A base plate fitted to the floor, without the 'D' shackle underneath it, isn't much use, I'm afraid. The separate 'D' shackle might make a nice door knocker ;-) Seriously, if anyone is in this situation and you notice quick enough, before the resin has set, try to lever the base plate away from the floor, quickly! We can supply replacement fixings so you can try again but if the base plate is already permanently fixed to the floor, we can't do much to help you use it. We can, however, supply another base plate separately, with more fixings, so you can re-use the 'D' shackle you've got 'spare' from the first attempt.
Great piece of kit. ~Had it fitted in 30 mins following your UA-cam tutorial. Love it, my bike is going no-where!
Glad you like it :-)
How deep do you drill? My garage has rather thin concrete, around 8-10 cm (maybe 3½-4 inches).
The holes for resin fixings should normally be drilled to 95mm depth (not deeper). The concrete should ideally be something like 150mm (6") thick. Anything around 100mm thick, and certainly anything less, is likely to have the drill break through the bottom of the concrete and then you have a problem with the resin having a chance to ooze (technical term!) away into any voids below. The nominal "Brick Wall/Mediocre Concrete" fitting kit is potentially an alternative option, then, as the holes don't need to go so deep and that uses shield anchors (aka expanding bolts) to fit the anchor instead, and they don't need the bottom of the holes to be sealed.
Another option can be to drill a larger diameter hole (16mm, compared with the normal 12mm diameter) and to fit resin sleeves, which we can supply separately. The sleeves are like plastic mesh cylinders. You then use injection resin from a cartridge and squirt the resin into the middle of the sleeve. The sleeve constrains the resin around where it is needed. I.e. the sleeve goes into a 16mm diameter hole and the resin goes into the sleeve, and the bolt goes down the middle.
The other options are to cut out a section of the floor, dig down, and to fit the anchor as you lay fresh concrete, filling up the hole, or simply to find another position to fit the anchor. Any anchor can only be as good as the substrate where it is fitted, so it is usually a mistake to fit it to something that is thin or weak.
(And apologies for such a slow reply.)
the anchor itself looks a bit loose. Is that normal?
The resin fixings don't really pull the anchor down onto the floor. It should be close, for sure, as you wouldn't want a thief being able to get a lever under the base plate in an attempt to prise it up out of the floor, but it won't be massively tight. Providing it is close to the floor, without a significant gap, that is fine.
you guys don't ship to the united states of America?
We have a distributor in the States: Please visit www.Lockitt.com
They hold stock and can ship much more cheaply than us sending something over the Pond :-)
Bugger forgot the D !!
We've had a few people that have got a bit involved in the fitting process and forgotten to put the 'D' shackle in place before using the resin to fix the base plate to the floor. This is unfortunate, especially if you don't notice until the resin has set! A base plate fitted to the floor, without the 'D' shackle underneath it, isn't much use, I'm afraid. The separate 'D' shackle might make a nice door knocker ;-) Seriously, if anyone is in this situation and you notice quick enough, before the resin has set, try to lever the base plate away from the floor, quickly! We can supply replacement fixings so you can try again but if the base plate is already permanently fixed to the floor, we can't do much to help you use it. We can, however, supply another base plate separately, with more fixings, so you can re-use the 'D' shackle you've got 'spare' from the first attempt.