My slanted walls and slanted ceiling weren't quite getting me where I wanted to be. But once I slanted the floor, everything fell in line. Well, they rolled across the floor and lined up along the wall.
For maximum effect you should also align the air molecules so that they flow along the same angle, otherwise you may have transient trapezoidal resonances which trap the high frequencies in non aligned vortexes along the perimeter.
My wife is about to rip out all the carpeting and replace it with hard-wood flooring. I dread to think what is about to happen to my acoustics. I really love how my system sounds presently, the VOTTs acoustically couple into the space beautifully. 😢
Symmetry is a big problem with many available rooms due to stereo, and chances are a slope could just complexify that. Modern living rooms are often more than a box, there's alcoves, L-shapes, connected kitchens and tall ceilings with overlooking dens and stairwells. Mine tends to be acoustically attached to the whole house and the listening seat is relatively near field, mostly by necessity but just as well.
I consider myself to be highly fortunate to have an irregular pentangle shaped auditorium with a similar irregular vaulted ceiling.... I only use a very large piece of ordinary grade carpet placed on the solid concrete floor plus three lounges and various tables ... the room is almost perfect ... I've taken numerous decay plots at multiple frequencies... low frequency node plots ... and everything was way down and really not worth bothering about .... if you can do it go for a room like this ... even if you have to build it yourself 😀
Slanted ceilings , reduces speaker to ceiling sound reflections , reflected sound , are time offset wave , by nano seconds , and could could produced audio clutterings .
The reason that a lot of Paul's bass ends up in the parts room downstairs is that he has coupled the Aspens to the floor with spikes. Spikes have become the industry standard way of mounting speakers and virtually no one questions there use. It's just the way it's done. Spikes are often described as a method of decoupling but this is not the case. To decouple the interface has to be compliant and allow some movement. If Paul mounted the FR30s on something like ISO Acoustics Gaias or better still Townshend Podiums he wouldn't be feeding bass energy into the floor, so the floor wouldn't be radiating as much bass energy into the room below. Better still the floor wouldn't be radiating bass energy back into the listening room. I'm not knocking Paul or his fabulous company. This is just an area where virtually the entire industry has gotten stuck believing a myth. It's time to ditch the spike.
This video made me feel I want to start a company making audiophile ceiling hard foam material tiles having some sort of large wave structure. Not many of us can make a shape like Paul describes but I would love something that I could mount in any room.
Paul, you have mentioned sloped ceilings in your videos before, some years ago. Based on your videos, the side walls of my listening space are not parallel and my ceiling is sloped two-ways. Wish I could upload a photo of my listening space, here. I suppose the question today was about a one-way slope.
A good treatment for sealing and back of the wall is to use strips of bamboo staggered of an quarter of an inch to an inch the further the way from the speaker it is. and half an inch of felt blanket laid on top. very nice feature if you treat it with Tang oil or Danish oil. You wanted to go a probably least 6 ft into the room the ceiling and two and a half feet down the side back of the wall. you could taper this off if you want. Just get some 3/4 of in plywood cut it to the angle of the wall hopefully 90° and ceiling, connect some plastic pipe connectors they can come in half inch to an inch you can heat up the half inch with a paint stripper and squashed them together, I haven't seen smaller ones I'm sure they do them. fasten these struts about 31 inches from each side wall depending on country regulations of gap spacing if going into joists, doesn't matter so much straight into plasterboard, and one in the middle or two depends on how wide it's going to be?? making a nice curve in the struts/ plywood and just clip the bamboo in. Don't forget to glue the felt to the first bamboo on the wall hold it out of the way and just lay it on top of the rest of the bamboo and attach it to the last one on the Ceiling. the gap between the wall and ceiling and strut/ plywood I made it 6 inches and the curve radius on the Apex between the wall and ceiling of 10 inches. you don't need to make a one piece you could use three pieces or two, I use two the radius in the corner and the piece going down the wall and separate piece for the ceiling. I attached plastic kitchen cabinet blocks to the Joyce going into the ceiling. You could use plasterboard drywall fasteners if your choice, and if not in the direction of the joists, that is desired for you plasterboard drywall attachments. just make sure the no more than 23 in apart and would advise to use a pipe and cable finder! just in case if screwing into joists and possibly plasterboard if it's near a light fitting to the right angle of the switch lying joist. You should be alright if you use a 6 mm by 40mm screws using cabinets plastic blocks this should avoid any cables if they're to standard! check with your country standard or avoid anywhere where there's pipes or cables when attaching. Two note! the felt you have to cut it into separate pieces you don't want it to get in the way of the pipe clips what are generally white I just painted the ends with a black Sharpie so you can't see them
Except panels. Magnaplaner likes their speakers to reach close to the ceiling. Which gave my 1.7i a problem with my 17' ceiling sloping to 9' at about 30' back wall. Panels in such spaces can give an incredibly wade and tall sound stage. But takes massive power.
The UA-cam room acoustics expert Acoustics Insider has stated that non-parallel surfaces make things worse by producing non-predictable standing waves. I personally think that Paul is correct and Acoustics Insider is wrong.
My understanding is the more square/cube the room the more reflections will repeatedly compete and thus muddy up the sound. It's the same concept as using material/objects for deflecting - we're trying to eliminated flat/parallel surfaces.
Paul's book method is about symmetry. So it's not about right or wrong. Symmetric rooms are easier to setup (form imaging, soundstage). Walls with slight angles are irrelevant for room modes. Much more relevant in the range of low frequencies are relation between dimensions and the material of the walls or floors: bass frequencies pass trough Paul's floor, while mine keep almost all low frequencies inside (heavy and rigid reinforced concrete). Acoustic Insider shares usually excellent advises.
I think you're misquoting Acoustic Insider here. I have watched dozens of his videos, including several that discussed slanted and/or asymmetrical surfaces. "Making things worse" is not the same thing as "producing less predictable standing waves". This is all somewhat moot (as Acoustic Insider pragmatically acknowledges) as most people don't get to choose the shape of their room anyway. Most of us just have to work with what we've got :) A bigger problem of course is lateral assymmetry.
🤗SOMEDAY I HOPE TO VISIT 👍…MEANWHILE I BUILT A REMODEL HOME WITH VAULTED CEILING AND I MOUNTED SPEAKERS 🔊 IN THE CEILING, 0:00 IN THE BACK FOR THE REAR AND AND THEY WERE COAXIAL WITH THE TWEETERS THAT COULD BE MOVED TO YOUR CHOICE OF POSITIONS 🤗💚💚💚
What equipment is Paul standing next to? Too small to be a PS Audio cd transport, can only see network, IEC mains and what looks like a digital out. Couldn't be a PS Audio streamer, could it?
Paul is right. The customer needs Aspen FR30's for the best sound in his slanted ceiling room unless he is not a real serious listener than he might get by with some K-Mart model number #L05ER speakers or something similar.
I just discovered I own a high end listening room with ceilings sloping two ways- no wonder my £1k of used, vintage gear sounds so bloody good to me!
My slanted walls and slanted ceiling weren't quite getting me where I wanted to be. But once I slanted the floor, everything fell in line. Well, they rolled across the floor and lined up along the wall.
Hilarious 10/10
When I moved into a house downhill from an amusement arcade, the money started to roll in.
For maximum effect you should also align the air molecules so that they flow along the same angle, otherwise you may have transient trapezoidal resonances which trap the high frequencies in non aligned vortexes along the perimeter.
Good one!
My wife is about to rip out all the carpeting and replace it with hard-wood flooring. I dread to think what is about to happen to my acoustics. I really love how my system sounds presently, the VOTTs acoustically couple into the space beautifully. 😢
Symmetry is a big problem with many available rooms due to stereo, and chances are a slope could just complexify that. Modern living rooms are often more than a box, there's alcoves, L-shapes, connected kitchens and tall ceilings with overlooking dens and stairwells. Mine tends to be acoustically attached to the whole house and the listening seat is relatively near field, mostly by necessity but just as well.
I was not expecting that! I lose a lot of sound in my valuated ceilings, I thought is was a bad thing....
I consider myself to be highly fortunate to have an irregular pentangle shaped auditorium with a similar irregular vaulted ceiling.... I only use a very large piece of ordinary grade carpet placed on the solid concrete floor plus three lounges and various tables ... the room is almost perfect ... I've taken numerous decay plots at multiple frequencies... low frequency node plots ... and everything was way down and really not worth bothering about .... if you can do it go for a room like this ... even if you have to build it yourself 😀
My room at work has very good acoustics, my listening room at home is terrible.
Slanted ceilings , reduces speaker to ceiling sound reflections , reflected sound , are time offset wave , by nano seconds , and could could produced audio clutterings .
The reason that a lot of Paul's bass ends up in the parts room downstairs is that he has coupled the Aspens to the floor with spikes.
Spikes have become the industry standard way of mounting speakers and virtually no one questions there use. It's just the way it's done. Spikes are often described as a method of decoupling but this is not the case. To decouple the interface has to be compliant and allow some movement.
If Paul mounted the FR30s on something like ISO Acoustics Gaias or better still Townshend Podiums he wouldn't be feeding bass energy into the floor, so the floor wouldn't be radiating as much bass energy into the room below. Better still the floor wouldn't be radiating bass energy back into the listening room.
I'm not knocking Paul or his fabulous company. This is just an area where virtually the entire industry has gotten stuck believing a myth. It's time to ditch the spike.
I have a room with 'kathedral ceiling' about 15 feet high and it just 'absorbs' all reflektions, giving the Amp quite a hard time!
This video made me feel I want to start a company making audiophile ceiling hard foam material tiles having some sort of large wave structure. Not many of us can make a shape like Paul describes but I would love something that I could mount in any room.
Paul, you have mentioned sloped ceilings in your videos before, some years ago. Based on your videos, the side walls of my listening space are not parallel and my ceiling is sloped two-ways. Wish I could upload a photo of my listening space, here.
I suppose the question today was about a one-way slope.
A good treatment for sealing and back of the wall is to use strips of bamboo staggered of an quarter of an inch to an inch the further the way from the speaker it is. and half an inch of felt blanket laid on top. very nice feature if you treat it with Tang oil or Danish oil. You wanted to go a probably least 6 ft into the room the ceiling and two and a half feet down the side back of the wall. you could taper this off if you want. Just get some 3/4 of in plywood cut it to the angle of the wall hopefully 90° and ceiling, connect some plastic pipe connectors they can come in half inch to an inch you can heat up the half inch with a paint stripper and squashed them together, I haven't seen smaller ones I'm sure they do them. fasten these struts about 31 inches from each side wall depending on country regulations of gap spacing if going into joists, doesn't matter so much straight into plasterboard, and one in the middle or two depends on how wide it's going to be?? making a nice curve in the struts/ plywood and just clip the bamboo in. Don't forget to glue the felt to the first bamboo on the wall hold it out of the way and just lay it on top of the rest of the bamboo and attach it to the last one on the Ceiling. the gap between the wall and ceiling and strut/ plywood I made it 6 inches and the curve radius on the Apex between the wall and ceiling of 10 inches. you don't need to make a one piece you could use three pieces or two, I use two the radius in the corner and the piece going down the wall and separate piece for the ceiling. I attached plastic kitchen cabinet blocks to the Joyce going into the ceiling. You could use plasterboard drywall fasteners if your choice, and if not in the direction of the joists, that is desired for you plasterboard drywall attachments. just make sure the no more than 23 in apart and would advise to use a pipe and cable finder! just in case if screwing into joists and possibly plasterboard if it's near a light fitting to the right angle of the switch lying joist. You should be alright if you use a 6 mm by 40mm screws using cabinets plastic blocks this should avoid any cables if they're to standard! check with your country standard or avoid anywhere where there's pipes or cables when attaching.
Two note! the felt you have to cut it into separate pieces you don't want it to get in the way of the pipe clips what are generally white I just painted the ends with a black Sharpie so you can't see them
Except panels. Magnaplaner likes their speakers to reach close to the ceiling. Which gave my 1.7i a problem with my 17' ceiling sloping to 9' at about 30' back wall. Panels in such spaces can give an incredibly wade and tall sound stage. But takes massive power.
The UA-cam room acoustics expert Acoustics Insider has stated that non-parallel surfaces make things worse by producing non-predictable standing waves. I personally think that Paul is correct and Acoustics Insider is wrong.
My understanding is the more square/cube the room the more reflections will repeatedly compete and thus muddy up the sound. It's the same concept as using material/objects for deflecting - we're trying to eliminated flat/parallel surfaces.
Paul's book method is about symmetry. So it's not about right or wrong. Symmetric rooms are easier to setup (form imaging, soundstage). Walls with slight angles are irrelevant for room modes. Much more relevant in the range of low frequencies are relation between dimensions and the material of the walls or floors: bass frequencies pass trough Paul's floor, while mine keep almost all low frequencies inside (heavy and rigid reinforced concrete). Acoustic Insider shares usually excellent advises.
There is a reason why cathedrals have slanted ceilings
Slanted is better if room is symetrical
I think you're misquoting Acoustic Insider here. I have watched dozens of his videos, including several that discussed slanted and/or asymmetrical surfaces.
"Making things worse" is not the same thing as "producing less predictable standing waves".
This is all somewhat moot (as Acoustic Insider pragmatically acknowledges) as most people don't get to choose the shape of their room anyway. Most of us just have to work with what we've got :)
A bigger problem of course is lateral assymmetry.
Yes it helps, just look at recording studios control rooms, if it did not work they would not spend the money.
Seismic oil dampers in walls of timber house, allow the rectangle walls to change into a parallelogram shape during an earthquake.
🤗SOMEDAY I HOPE TO VISIT 👍…MEANWHILE I BUILT A REMODEL HOME WITH VAULTED CEILING AND I MOUNTED SPEAKERS 🔊 IN THE CEILING, 0:00 IN THE BACK FOR THE REAR AND AND THEY WERE COAXIAL WITH THE TWEETERS THAT COULD BE MOVED TO YOUR CHOICE OF POSITIONS 🤗💚💚💚
Build a round room and you will have a washing machine effect. You will literally be immersed in the bass. Your mind will be spinning
What equipment is Paul standing next to? Too small to be a PS Audio cd transport, can only see network, IEC mains and what looks like a digital out. Couldn't be a PS Audio streamer, could it?
Hi Paul!
A boxed room is more predictable and consistent though
Slants are awesome because parallel walls are the worst.
Paul is right. The customer needs Aspen FR30's for the best sound in his slanted ceiling room unless he is not a real serious listener than he might get by with some K-Mart model number #L05ER speakers or something similar.