The voltage drop across the USB cable greatly influences how much current the phone takes. Try different lenghts of cable while measuring the input current to the DC-Dc and you will find which is the best cable to use. I found the 10cm(4 inch) flat cable from ebay to be the best.
I’m sure no one will read this on such an old video but I’ll ask anyway. Normally, as far as I have been reading, buck converters say not to have ‘no load’ or ‘light load’ on them or else the voltage will creep up to source voltage and when you plug your device in it can become damaged. Is that true for this one? One schematic I saw on Amazon says that it has a chip that does output over-voltage protection. Is that something that would prevent the issue?
These cut out at 20v maximum input I recommend heatsinks for the coil, chip & diode to charge things like phones as most will max out the amperage draw through the chip from a low battery. Small usb fans are fine at 2.5w
It'd be .5a at 12 v. Stepped down to 5v therefore providing more amps than that to the right? My usb meter was saying 1.5a when the multimeter I had at the battery side was saying .3 at 21v I have a question, if I get rid of the LED, will the rest of the circuit not be discharging my battery? I was really hoping to add a usb output to my drill battery but there is no switch on either of the boards. I was hoping it'd be like those powerbank circuits that would switch the lights off after a few seconds.
Connect a multimeter set for reading current between the buck converter and the battery. Connect it again between the buck converter and your phone to accurately determine the amperage drawn. Don’t rely on the clamp over method. Problem of unknown consumption is now known.
I test this device and I get the follow results: connected directly to my car 12v acid lead battery (without any resisten or fuse) and works fine, when I connect an old cheap smartphone it charge normally at 220mA and buck converter temperature was normal (ambient temperature), when I connected a Xiaomi Remi Note 2 with 80% battery it charge at 400mA and buck converter temperature was a little warm, but when I connect a Redmi Note 4 at 40% of battery it charge at 1.25A but buck converter temperature was really really hot!!! it burn!!! I only can hold it just 4 sec because it burn my fingers.... so I think if I connected a smartphone almost dead and it draw 2 or 3A maybe buck converter could be damaged.... so I think this device need a heatsink any way!!! and maybe it never can reach 3A
if i understand correctly you put on your phone directly to this buck converter ? i am thinking about doing this, but scared that i might need a usb charger in front of it :-\
Have you actually checked they run at 24v? Mine dont. These converters switch off at 19V. 24V is just a false claim. Additionally 0.2W Idle current is way too high (@12V)
is the usb power regulated to 5v if the input voltage is fluctuating between 12-15v?
use one of those cheapo usb power analyzers to measure usb power draw
The voltage drop across the USB cable greatly influences how much current the phone takes. Try different lenghts of cable while measuring the input current to the DC-Dc and you will find which is the best cable to use. I found the 10cm(4 inch) flat cable from ebay to be the best.
Datapins are bridge on the bottom. This board runs really hot. A heatsink is recommended.
Great video. Do you think this be used to safely power a Raspberry Pi 3? Thanks.
I’m sure no one will read this on such an old video but I’ll ask anyway. Normally, as far as I have been reading, buck converters say not to have ‘no load’ or ‘light load’ on them or else the voltage will creep up to source voltage and when you plug your device in it can become damaged. Is that true for this one? One schematic I saw on Amazon says that it has a chip that does output over-voltage protection. Is that something that would prevent the issue?
These cut out at 20v maximum input
I recommend heatsinks for the coil, chip & diode to charge things like phones as most will max out the amperage draw through the chip from a low battery.
Small usb fans are fine at 2.5w
I got some of these from Amazon. They say they output 5v but the ones I got output 3v. My LED strip doesn’t light up. Bummer!
It'd be .5a at 12 v. Stepped down to 5v therefore providing more amps than that to the right? My usb meter was saying 1.5a when the multimeter I had at the battery side was saying .3 at 21v I have a question, if I get rid of the LED, will the rest of the circuit not be discharging my battery? I was really hoping to add a usb output to my drill battery but there is no switch on either of the boards. I was hoping it'd be like those powerbank circuits that would switch the lights off after a few seconds.
Connect a multimeter set for reading current between the buck converter and the battery. Connect it again between the buck converter and your phone to accurately determine the amperage drawn. Don’t rely on the clamp over method. Problem of unknown consumption is now known.
I have these hw-384 USB buck converters and with a micro fan and heatsink can do 3a load continual left on full load for months no issues.
Did you put the heatsink on the coil or the chip?
I test this device and I get the follow results: connected directly to my car 12v acid lead battery (without any resisten or fuse) and works fine, when I connect an old cheap smartphone it charge normally at 220mA and buck converter temperature was normal (ambient temperature), when I connected a Xiaomi Remi Note 2 with 80% battery it charge at 400mA and buck converter temperature was a little warm, but when I connect a Redmi Note 4 at 40% of battery it charge at 1.25A but buck converter temperature was really really hot!!! it burn!!! I only can hold it just 4 sec because it burn my fingers.... so I think if I connected a smartphone almost dead and it draw 2 or 3A maybe buck converter could be damaged.... so I think this device need a heatsink any way!!! and maybe it never can reach 3A
How many amps this USB Buck Converter can handle, what is the best way to connect it with 3S 11.1V 25A 18650 Li-ion Lithium Battery BMS. thanks sir
if i understand correctly you put on your phone directly to this buck converter ?
i am thinking about doing this, but scared that i might need a usb charger in front of it :-\
Make it a cooling fan for circuit
Have you actually checked they run at 24v? Mine dont. These converters switch off at 19V. 24V is just a false claim. Additionally 0.2W Idle current is way too high (@12V)
Yes it fake the mah is 500 max only not 3 or 1
go to the Dollar Store and buy the cigarette lighter plugin and get the same thing for a buck. works for me. :-)
If this device is on without charging the phone, is it hot ?
Dai Nguyen doan no, without phone connected it only consume 0.1mA or even less and never get hot this way
I have one whit ragiator and fan 12v to cooling and i use whit a solar panel 12v to charge a 18650 celll...and phone is good
This is 5v 3a buck is giving me 2.5a current its best too.. Use usb tester and new 2a chargeable phones
Y would you need one of these pointless
i got it connected to a car battery in the shed to charge phone and run led lights.