Amplifier eyelet board assembly
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- Опубліковано 23 кві 2020
- Amplifier eyelet board assembly
5 boards for about $22 in about 7 days www.pcbway.com
In this video we assembly revision one of my amplifier eyelet board. I need to bring the mounting holes closer together, but other than that it seems fine.
Eyelet board: www.pcbway.com/project/sharep...
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Here is all the gear I currently use:
Oscilloscope 1: Rigol 1054Z amzn.to/2PRybtN
Oscilloscope 2: Siglent SDS1202X-E amzn.to/31Kk1yH
Power Supply 1: TekPower TP3005N amzn.to/2TeQnxI
Power Supply 2: RUIDENG DP50V5A amzn.to/2sNicSe
Signal Generator: JS2800 ban.ggood.vip/d9vk
DMM1: Owon18B amzn.to/2SbIGLs
DMM2: Aneng 8008 amzn.to/2sNQncI
DMM3: Aneng 8009 amzn.to/2S5qeEp
DMM4: Uni-T UT801 amzn.to/2S89SuL
Soldering Station1: Zeny (Yihua)862D+ amzn.to/2S49z4e
Soldering Station2: KSGR T12 amzn.to/2Wk7Dn9
Light Meter Smart Sensor AS803 amzn.to/2B2gyRg - Наука та технологія
The World loves a tryer, learn by practical experience. Well done!!
I do remember seeing those boards, quite an advancement from point to point wiring.
-but you can't really call that an eyelet, it's more an eyesore - lol
I'm dying to hear how this bad boy sounds!
This reminds me of my science project. a AM radio built on plywood and wire finish nails for the tie points....:) giving my age away now...
YOUR MAKING ME WINCE WITH THE ASSEMBLY OF PARTS ON THE BOARD.I HAVE NEVER SEEN ANYTHING LIKE THAT BEFORE.
That's the way Leo Fender did it, and Jim Marshall. They used a turret board, but same thing.
That's cute people are knocking the layout. Leo knew exactly what he was doing. It's a perfect way to bridge the gap between the pots and tubes.
It's not pretty, but it should sound good. (as long as the electrolitics are the correct polarity and the soldering can take the vibration of heavy rock. LOL.) Nice Work.
what the hell is that pcb design xD nice job btw
Why you did not make separate holes for each component? And with pitch that matches size of that component?
images.app.goo.gl/BWjMBjDD8hviGfoX8
@@learnelectronics Well, I'm not familiar with 5F1 Champ and its boards. It was a little bit awkward. But now it makes sense, you tried to replicate look of that board.
I understand more now too thanks for the response
:) I like the creative componect soldering, reminds me of one the things that amazed me in my youth, if you ever looked inside an old pre 70's amateur radio and the creative soldering they did back then, holy crap. I never understood how they did it, and kept things from shorting out. Keep it old school Paul, that kinda of design is why the audio circuits back then sound so unique and Awesome!
Thank you!
You should have put the big capacitors in the holes and use their stronger legs as support for the other components.
Nice looking board, but in spite of your expectation for comments, I wanted to add a few. While I appreciate the attempt at matching the look of the eyelet board you shared with Juraj Lonc below, I'd think that since you were making the PCB from scratch that you'd set the pads at distances that match the size of the components you used. And for places where you have multiple components entering a single pad, either make the hole and the pad big enough to support all the leads or make a zone with as many holes as you need for the leads you have. Positioning of the components may be important to the circuit performance, but positioning of the lead holes probably isn't. As you did with your board, any jumpers needed to complete circuits for the shorter components could be on the back of the board or could be traces on the front of the board as well. Off my soapbox now. Stay well.
I like your humbleness. Still only version one available, not 2?
Great job Paul! It may not be a conventional board, but should get the job done. However, I do think you have a good foundation and look forward to seeing future revisions of the board. As a friendly tip, only cause I didn’t hear you mention it, you’ll probably have to secure some of the components to minimize any vibration. Looking forward to the next part!!
Great project - looking forward to the next installment
Thanks. All I need now is the output transformer and I can assemble the amp.
Looks good. I've got a small drawer full of left over lead clippings, they do come in handy. 16uF 475vdc cap , can you say cattle prod...Ouch. Looking forward to the finished build. Y'all have a good one.
More Cool...Would like nice video of How Tube Valves work...
Ok
Very interesting thanks for another great video.
Paul, I would continuity check each of those solder connections just to make sure it is not just glued with flux. Interesting board, I like how you attempted to create the vintage look.
Thanks, I will
I just took a look to the picture of the 5F1 Champ you posted down in the comments. I'm not good electronics, but it looks for me like your bypass capacitor has the wrong polarity. Anyway, I really enjoy your videos an appreciate the time you spend to help us learn a little bit more about electronics.
Thanks. I'll check it.
Looking forward to V2 of the board! One question, when you had multiple components going to the same hole, why didn't you put both of them in the hole and solder them together in the hole? Your drill holes looked big enough.
I based this off the eyelet board of the Fender 5F1 circuit.
images.app.goo.gl/BWjMBjDD8hviGfoX8
is the difference between bread board nd pc ,,no tracks on the back of bread board?
Hi mate, nice idea, my only concern is the polarity of the electrolytes are not marked on the board, mind you i may have just not seen it. :)
They are not, I will add that in V2. Thanks!!
@@learnelectronics yw :)
is that the filter part of the amp??
I repair and build these Amp all the time! your resistors are going to run hot! your 10k and 22k should be 3 watt, and your 470 ohm should be 5 watt! This is what fender used. The rest looks good!
Thank you for the info!
👍
Love the silk screen layout Paul! Rock on Buddy! :) KN4ROL
Where is the next video - ???? I think I am going blind I can't find it
Looks like the old school components are as hard to solder as SMD 😃. Can't wait to hear it. You can call her Susan Boyle. Ain't pretty but sounds good.
Great video Paul and don:t be putting your self down flower? you tha man by the way you should be putting your extractor fan on and save your self a bad chest mate catch you next time
ahhh no part bender i'll see if one fell off the truck lol
Always found Dead Bug or Point to Point much easier to work on. Parts are always where needed. RF and Noise wise better in most cases because of short wire runs. Yea parts to get berried at times.
Been cool to just do away with the PCB and do the Dead Bug on this one I think. Everything floating in space ?
Maybe p2p on the next build. This ain't my area, so I'm starting from a known good circuit. Once I get comfortable I'll experiment a bit more
Sorry to say it, but that looks very ugly layout I think I prefer point to point with eyelet stripes, but I don't know anything about it, but the videos are very interesting to see how it's done thanks
wow. I just want to blow that flux smoke away from you :)
A lot of angry people here. The truth is..this circuit is pretty good to learn how a circuit works...IMHO.
That is a strangely laid out board...
images.app.goo.gl/BWjMBjDD8hviGfoX8
OCD alert, 22 k ohm on lower left is reading backwards. Aggggg!
Nice job Paul. Could the design for trace width be increased for higher current?
Absolutely. But other than the heating filaments, the max current on this board should be about 250mA.
@@learnelectronics
Oh, okay. Guess it's more a voltage thing compared to current.
With all due respect it is not very tidy.
No it's not, its my go at this. V2 will be better once I see how things work.
@@learnelectronics Look forward the next version and the testing,regards Colin
Another great video... Where do you buy your components? I am tired of buying stuff from china. Most of the stuff is either fake or terrible quality.... especially components for diy amps.... but even their mosfets and transistors..... and let's not even start with the LED's.....
You should always buy from an actual component specialist and get legit parts. The amount of times I have helped hobbyists and beginners debug a project purely because of after market components that don't work according to the datasheet specs, sure you save money but rarely time. To name a few: RS components, Farnell, Mouser, Digikey, Rapid Electronics.......never eBay lol.
Mouser.com upgraded my last two orders from $7.99 two day shipping to overnight for free. Terrible site to navigate though at first.
These were all sourced from ebay.
@@Spentelectrons RS components give free next day delivery as standard, no matter how small the order. EDIT (in the UK)
WTF did I just watch 🤦♂️🤣
What an awful board, component placement just bizarre 😮
images.app.goo.gl/BWjMBjDD8hviGfoX8
What's happen friend, 27 Minute s for what! You can do it in five minutes at maximum