The problem will return at about 7k to 10k miles. Happened to me. I changed the rotors for the R1 Concepts drilled/slotted rotors combo with ceramic pads for about $350 total in Amazon and problem solved. :)
I realize you are up north but here in southern Louisiana we call it pulsating (if that is indeed what you are referring to). I am a FORMER auto mechanic; left the industry in 1999 but I specialized in front end and ground contact maintenance. This means anything on the front end with steering, suspension, etc and anything attached at the rear with the wheels; suspension, brakes, etc. My personal vehicles all needed upgraded front braking, esp my Titan. I went with the highest quality brakes at a national chain b/c I was lazy and it failed in under 20k miles. Free replacement and again, in about the same mileage, the pulsating was back. I should mention that I sometimes pull a 9,400 pound trailer with a tractor on it so this does work the Titan brakes a bit more. I finally spent the bigger bucks and installed high quality rotors and pads. I have about 60k miles on them and not one issue. Thanks for posting the video. It was easy to follow and I especially liked the 'break in' of the pads at the beginning and then you performing the 'break in'.
Thank you! That means a lot coming from you. I wanted to ask you about launching off the park break. Do you think it launches better? Do you think it’s hard on the transmission doing it that way?
Did the new ones end up with the same issue? It seems this is one of those issues Hyundai just didn't really want to deal with because even the 2023 still come with the terrible pads
Casey I learned something totally new unrelated to the title of your video.. I had no ideal the pads were that easy to swap out so the caliper doesnt have to come off at all wow. My Corolla brakes are harder than this to do. I have GIRODISC pads and cquence Rotors they have been solid.
Brembo brakes are probably the easiest brakes to swap pads. It’s a great system. I wanted to show people how easy it is to save them from paying a shop. It only took me about 45 min to do both sides from start to finish.
Good job on the DIY service ! I own the same car At 30,000 Kms ( 22,000 miles ) bad shaking. Cant belive KIA puts the Best Calipers on with Cheap pads. Anyway I was thinking I would have to change the rotors BUT thanks to your video .im going to do just the same and hope it clears the KIA SHAKE !
I’d possibly recommend getting the rotors turned at that mileage. If still have no vibrations for only the front pads being swapped, but I swapped my pads at 5k km. Just a suggestion
it won't solve it, it will come back at about 7k to 10k miles. The problem is they are using Kia Soul rotors on a Stinger. Lol. I changed the rotors for the R1 Concepts drilled/slotted rotors combo with ceramic pads for about $350 total in Amazon and problem solved. :)
I have never used the "Pro Stop" brand brake pads. I HAVE however, used the the "Pro Stop" cross drilled brake rotors, in combination with "Hawk" ceramic pads. Those were a great combination on both my "03 Toyota Matrix XRS, and my "02 Acura RL. Fantastic stopping power, and no fade in the canyons. I have been looking at getting a Stinger GT early next year, and I'll likely use that combination. I'm happy to learn that the Hawk pads are available for the car. More expensive though, about $170.. so says the internet.
Pads for sure. The little bit of shake likely went away because the new pads scrubbed the pad material that was originally transferred to the discs. I can't imagine what it would take to warp beefy rotors like those...
Thanks for confirming it's the damn pads. I suspected the pads when my car would sit for weeks on the driveway and develop a slight rust on the rotors. Once the rust would be scrubbed off, the vibration would say away for a while. So the rusting process was probably removing brake pad material off the surface. Has anyone come up with a fix for the folding mirrors getting stuck periodically in the closed position on only one side?
Just installed those pads on my 18 GT2 today. Replaced the rotors as well (Centric rotors). Bedded them as recommended. So far shudder, which was definitely an issue with stock since low miles, is gone. Will see how they do with dust. I got the pads from Amazon.
@OVRBoosted any squeaking or vibrations after driving with them for a while? I have a issue with the pads moving slightly so it has a brake Groan sound.
Very nice tutorial! You make changing the pads so simple. Hope you braking feeling is better now. I purchase front and rear rotors by Stoptech (Performance Premium) and I purchased the stoptech pads from K8stinger. But the shudder is still there but only feeling it from the rear. Don't know if stoptech quality has gone done or what. I've checked my rotors and they have that ripple look. And yes, It only happens when the brakes are at temp and when I brake from 80 sometimes it vibrates a little from 50 on local roads.
At this point I have about 300 miles on the new pads. The shutter has completely disappeared. Or en tried getting them a bit hot yesterday and no shaking. So far I’m very happy. Did you just do your brakes? I did notice you have to do the bedding process because when I first started bedding I could feel it shake a bit.
@@OVRBoosted I had mine done right around the end of Spring, I changed the pads first and then rotors, because most people on the forums said the issue comes from the pads. But right after I changed the pads it worked well for about maybe a month and then back to the shuddering, same when I changed the rotors too, but now I feel the shuddering from the rear. I can live with the shuddering for now since I don't race or drive like a maniac. haha
@@OVRBoosted Not sure about that. It's probably a little too late. I think since the summer I've put on about 9k - 10k miles. Originally I changed the pad and rotors around 3k. I got the Stinger right around the shut down so it was in the drive way more than the roads. hahaha
@@terrorsz75 it’s strange that you feel it in the back. Most braking is done on the front brakes. I only changed out the front pads and it’s completely gone. The brakes never felt better. I know k8 runs the same pads on their shop stinger as well and they also said there shake went away.
For some reason the USA did not go with original Brembo brake pads for stinger, here in Australia if you take the pad out they are marked Brembo on the back of the pads. Something about USA Law regarding the pads, did you try looking for original Brembo pads and could you find them over there?
It wouldn’t hurt to have the rotors turned. It’s cheap to have done and it’s a good piece of mind. My car only had 5000km on those brakes so I didn’t bother to turn the rotors.
I own a Dodge Challenger R/T and a G70, both have 4 piston Brembo brakes. The only difference is the Challenger has slotted rotors. Zero vibration from my Challenger and the G70……vibration like crazy. I just bought new pads and slotted rotors. Slotted rotors clean the build up off the pads which is creating the issue.
So, people still believe the vibration are pads issue that needs replacing instead of just cleaning the deposits off the rotors ? He felt slight vibrations, because he may not have cleaned off the rotors or the rotors have uneven wear on them ?? but if you're going to buy new pads for a Stinger GT, why would you get the Evolution ? The Extreme Z26, that I got, are the more direct replacement level that would match the bembro level for that car. My Z26 Rear I got seem great so far, so I recommend Powerstop too, but mine needed changing due to wear down and time to change. I've felt the vibration everyone talks about on my Stinger, but it always went away on it's own, after a hard brake or two. My front are still stock pads, at over 40K miles (72K kms) and they'll make it to the spring/summer, it seems. I'll get the Z26 for the front too. and if my rotors are still within Spec and safe, I'll just turn them and re-use one more time. They're quality durable bembro rotors, why would folks change them ??? until they need it ?? Sadly, Powerstop doesn't make Plain smooth rotors for Stingers. only drilled kind, of which i do NOT want. Plain is just fine and better..
I went with the power stop pads. K8 stinger store recommended them because they run them on their shop stinger. Power stop has a higher performance pad that I believe is a z26. I should have went with those, but I haven’t had any issues with the evaluation. K8 said they are a better pad then stopTech.
The ol pad slap. If your gonna perform a "pad slap" at least pull the rotor off and sand the glaze off the rotors. I would prefer a .05 cut on the lathe myself.....on that note enjoying the channel. 25+ year tech here.
Thank you for the advice, it is appreciated and I’m definitely not a mechanic. The car only had about 4,000km on it at the time of the swap. I now have about 10,000km on the car and haven’t had any shake at all. I might have got lucky. I was attempting to show people the cheapest way to stop their vibrating brakes.
@@OVRBoosted Great video, my 22 does the same shaking when applying the brakes. I'm going to have to change the pads. Also, why do you and other people keep saying that they're "down in Mexico?!"
@@williamblackwell9968 i highly recommend the power stop pads. I’m very happy so far with the performance. K8 store will set you up if you shoot them an email. They do run those pads on their shop stinger. People say they are in “Mexico” due to there being not the same rules that there is here.
@@OVRBoosted I mean, sure you can say that if you want, but what I don't understand is why people think that doing so somehow protects them from the cops in any way. If the cops wanted to prosecute based on a UA-cam video (where all of the signs are in English; and anyone familiar with the area would know exactly where the video took place), its not like they're going to then say, "Oh, wait! In the comments the suspect told everyone that they were in Mexico, nevermind, they got us again!" Besides, your GPS says that you're at the intersection of Symons Valley Parkway and Kincora Gate NW. A quick google search tells me you're in in Calgary, AB. 😬
Hi greetings from Tabasco México, i have a Stinger 2.0 with just 1000 kilometers and I feel I vibration when I put the brakes at 80 kilometers per hou o less, what do you think is the problem? Do you think is the same issue? Do you recommend to change the paddles? Do I have to rectify my discs? Thank you very much in advance.
Do you have the brembo brakes? If you replace the pads it will usually fix the vibration. Kia used a brake pad that has a softer compound. So when they heat up little particles stick to the rotor causing a vibration. I’d switch the pads to power stop pads and you can get those at the k8 stinger store. You could also just have the rotors re surfaced if you wanted. But with only 1000km it’s most likely just the brake pads.
@@OVRBoosted hi, the 2.0 at least here in Mexico, came equipped with ordinary pads no whit the Brembo, just 1000 kilometers it is incredible to have that problem! I will replace them and I will let you know as soon as possible, thank you very much.
I have no shake or rattle noises. Are you sure the pads are in correctly and you didn’t miss putting the pin through the pad correctly? I’d double check that everything is installed correctly.
@OVRBoosted I'm gonna take it apart and check it again, did you re use the plate that sits on the pad and contacts the pistons? I didn't get a new one in my stoptech kit but I did get a new clip
I just bought a used stinger GT2 with 20k miles and I notice it slightly. I went in with prior knowledge of the issue and crossed my fingers but it's definitely there lol. I'm assuming the residual shake you felt was due to not replacing the rear pads. So, it's been 5 months since you did the fix, did the issue come back? I'm not really a car expert but I might take a whack at following your guide on this.
The issue has never come back. I’d definitely recommend swapping out the pads with power stop from k8. Since you have 20k miles I’d just get the rotors turned. That should completely solve any vibration problems.
Brembo are probably the easiest pads to change. If my video doesn’t fully help you, there is a ton on UA-cam to help you get it done. The biggest piece of advice when doing them is to make sure you get the pins to hold down the retaining clip properly. Also when the job is complete start the car and pump up the brake peddle before driving it anywhere or putting it in gear.
Service the brakes once a year and don't drive like youre racing and you won't have a problem. If you hammer on any brakes the rotors can warp temporarily or permamnently, I own a gt2 never had a problem in 80 thousand KM
The stock brake pads are known to leave deposits on the rotor giving a vibration. I swapped just the front pads and drive hard with zero vibration after over a year.
@@SparkyWrench try a better pad, but if the rotors have a lot of miles I’d recommend having them turned. The issue on the stinger is the pour quality break pads from the factory.
@@SparkyWrench it’s a good option, if you contact the guys at k8 they might even have better options now. They also test some of the pads on their shop stinger.
Two or three crash-stops from 100kph will clear the dust build up off the pads and the shudder will disappear. The rotors do not warp. Don't know what all the drama is about.
I’m not sure about that only because my brake shake had completely gone away by swapping the pads. Kia used a pad that would leave deposits on the rotor when heated up. That’s what would give the vibration. Once the deposits cooled down they would clean off the rotor. Then the process would repeat. I have over 1000 miles on the new pads and no shake.
@@410ytlmustang Rotors are just fine and solid !! Not the rotors. Drilled and slotted rotors are weaker a bit more prone to crack in winter, they wear down your pads sooner, so you buy quality pads to have them worn down faster, they can be noisier, They just look so fn cool, but theyre not really better performance in braking. maybe a tiny bit better in the right sweet spot of bit hard driving and they heat up if prolonged spirited hard braking, but for real hard braking on a track or everyday spirited driving on windy roads, No, plain will perform better. Unless you can afford $2k per rotor for the true racing type
"Cleaning the rotors," - you gotta get them resurfaced man. Take into account that the pads grip both the proximal and distal surfaces of the rotor. Unless you're gonna take the rotors completely off and clean the proximal part of the rotor then it's pointless. Furthermore "cleaning" doesn't properly remove the resin from the old brake pads in order to bed the new ones on a fresh surface. The only way to do that is to get the rotors resurfaced. Cheaping out doesn't sound like a good idea with this.
I see your point of view. I have had warped rotors in other cars and you can tell they are warped if the brakes are e hot or cold and under light and hard braking. The stinger only vibrates when hot then it goes away. Over 1000miles on just the pads I changed and zero shake under hard breaking.
@@OVRBoosted I watched your entire video. You said there was ever so slightly a vibration if you really payed attention, you could have probably 100% gotten rid of the vibrations overall if you would have followed standard pad and rotor procedure (which mind you is already very inexpensive). Could probably be because the rotors were not refurfaced prior to new pads. So essentially you have old caked on resin on both sides of the rotor and new pads that tried to get their factory resin bedded into the rotor to create a silky smooth surface, but that was not possible because the rotors were not resurfaced. Not trying to argue with you just saying that it's already very cheap to do this and that's the right way to do it.
Absolutely agree, I did only do the front pads and as time went on around the 200 mile mark there isn’t any shake at all anymore. I’m sure I would’ve gone wrong if I turned the rotors. My videos intention was to get rid of the vibration the cheapest way possible. I honestly thought I’d be doing rotors, I didn’t expect the pads to work.
@@HanHsu910 that’s crazy! I wonder if you got a bad one? I know a lot of people run the R1 and have no issues. I just swapped out my pads and my brake shake has been gone ever since. Maybe there is a potential other issue?
@@OVRBoosted It is super weird, it only does that on the highway above 100 Km an hour when I press the brake. Brakes doesn’t seem to be stopping fast also. I have some bent rims I’m getting new wheels maybe that’s the issue. I hope haha
@@jonathanpoulin6150 the breaks still are perfect no shake has come back yet. I have some new content coming. It’s winter where I live and I have the car tucked away, but I have some new flow forged rims coming up and I’ll also be doing some tire reviews that are budget friendly. So stay tuned the spring and summer is when I will be pumping out content again.
@@jonathanpoulin6150 have seen guys talk about them. These pads I used were recommended by k8stingerstore and I only got them because they also run them on their stock stinger and have no issues.
I've replaced my front rotors with dimpled and slotted, replaced the pads with same pads as you, replaced all 4 brake lines with steel braided lines. Still at high temp from about 120mph on the brakes aggressive still have shaking but not as bad. Maybe I'll need to replace the rears rotors as well with slotted and maybe I'll go with a drilled in the front. This is a ridiculous issue
It is a ridiculous issue, so far I haven’t had an issue unless I really heat them up to the point of smoking. Other then that it’s been a night and day difference so far.
So far I have put about 1000 miles on the car since installing. All is good. I will update as the miles get put on. Updated Nov 26, 2022
The problem will return at about 7k to 10k miles. Happened to me. I changed the rotors for the R1 Concepts drilled/slotted rotors combo with ceramic pads for about $350 total in Amazon and problem solved. :)
@@PRBatmanI have about 10k km on them now and I still have no issues as of yet.
@@OVRBoosted That's why I said closer to 10K miles or 16K km. You'll see.
I realize you are up north but here in southern Louisiana we call it pulsating (if that is indeed what you are referring to). I am a FORMER auto mechanic; left the industry in 1999 but I specialized in front end and ground contact maintenance. This means anything on the front end with steering, suspension, etc and anything attached at the rear with the wheels; suspension, brakes, etc. My personal vehicles all needed upgraded front braking, esp my Titan. I went with the highest quality brakes at a national chain b/c I was lazy and it failed in under 20k miles. Free replacement and again, in about the same mileage, the pulsating was back. I should mention that I sometimes pull a 9,400 pound trailer with a tractor on it so this does work the Titan brakes a bit more. I finally spent the bigger bucks and installed high quality rotors and pads. I have about 60k miles on them and not one issue. Thanks for posting the video. It was easy to follow and I especially liked the 'break in' of the pads at the beginning and then you performing the 'break in'.
Thanks I appreciate your advice and information. I’ll definitely be changing rotors next if it comes back. So far things are okay.
Good stuff man. Keep the stinger vid rolling!
Thank you! That means a lot coming from you. I wanted to ask you about launching off the park break. Do you think it launches better? Do you think it’s hard on the transmission doing it that way?
I had that same problem with my Genesis G70 brembo brakes. Took it to the dealer and they replaced all 4 rotors under warrenty. Great vid!
Thank you for the comment. I just did the front pads and still no vibrations.
Did the new ones end up with the same issue? It seems this is one of those issues Hyundai just didn't really want to deal with because even the 2023 still come with the terrible pads
@@gfdia35 wow. Thought they would have fixed it by now. It wasn't my pads but the rotors. But the fix worked. I have no issues with the brembos now
Casey I learned something totally new unrelated to the title of your video.. I had no ideal the pads were that easy to swap out so the caliper doesnt have to come off at all wow. My Corolla brakes are harder than this to do. I have GIRODISC pads and cquence Rotors they have been solid.
Brembo brakes are probably the easiest brakes to swap pads. It’s a great system. I wanted to show people how easy it is to save them from paying a shop. It only took me about 45 min to do both sides from start to finish.
Thanks for the video my friend. 👍🇬🇧
No problem, I hope I was able to help.
Keep us posted!
Thanks, I definitely will.
If you going to sensor the speed gauge, don’t forget the other HUD display 😂
Lol I know, I caught that after the fact. Good thing I’m down in “Mexico” testing.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thank you so much 😊
No problem, I hope I was able to give some insight and help you.
Good job on the DIY service !
I own the same car
At 30,000 Kms ( 22,000 miles ) bad shaking.
Cant belive KIA puts the Best Calipers on with Cheap pads.
Anyway I was thinking I would have to change the rotors
BUT thanks to your video .im going to do just the same and hope it clears the KIA SHAKE !
I’d possibly recommend getting the rotors turned at that mileage. If still have no vibrations for only the front pads being swapped, but I swapped my pads at 5k km. Just a suggestion
it won't solve it, it will come back at about 7k to 10k miles. The problem is they are using Kia Soul rotors on a Stinger. Lol. I changed the rotors for the R1 Concepts drilled/slotted rotors combo with ceramic pads for about $350 total in Amazon and problem solved. :)
I have never used the "Pro Stop" brand brake pads. I HAVE however, used the the "Pro Stop" cross drilled brake rotors, in combination with "Hawk" ceramic pads. Those were a great combination on both my "03 Toyota Matrix XRS, and my "02 Acura RL. Fantastic stopping power, and no fade in the canyons.
I have been looking at getting a Stinger GT early next year, and I'll likely use that combination. I'm happy to learn that the Hawk pads are available for the car. More expensive though, about $170.. so says the internet.
I haven’t had a single issue since I swapped out the pads over a year ago. Still holding strong.
Pads for sure. The little bit of shake likely went away because the new pads scrubbed the pad material that was originally transferred to the discs. I can't imagine what it would take to warp beefy rotors like those...
So far so good, no more vibrations. Brakes feel amazing at this point.
Great video, speed can be seen on the heads up display
I just caught that as well. So much for trying. I’m in Mexico like all the other youtubers
@@OVRBoosted definitely
Thanks for confirming it's the damn pads. I suspected the pads when my car would sit for weeks on the driveway and develop a slight rust on the rotors. Once the rust would be scrubbed off, the vibration would say away for a while. So the rusting process was probably removing brake pad material off the surface. Has anyone come up with a fix for the folding mirrors getting stuck periodically in the closed position on only one side?
I haven’t experienced the mirror getting stuck yet.
Just installed those pads on my 18 GT2 today. Replaced the rotors as well (Centric rotors). Bedded them as recommended. So far shudder, which was definitely an issue with stock since low miles, is gone. Will see how they do with dust. I got the pads from Amazon.
That’s great that it’s not doing it anymore. The brake dust is almost non existent so far for myself.
@OVRBoosted any squeaking or vibrations after driving with them for a while?
I have a issue with the pads moving slightly so it has a brake Groan sound.
I have had no issues to report as of yet. I very satisfied so far. I have no shake anymore.
Blurried speedo but heads up display is a cop ! haha good video thanks
Haha I know I know, I caught that after the fact, but it’s a good thing I’m down in Mexico 🇲🇽 with all the other guys testing their cars.
Any specific type of grease that you used? This will be my first time changing pads myself. Great video!
Just a regular break grease. Usually pads will come with some in the box.
Very nice tutorial! You make changing the pads so simple. Hope you braking feeling is better now. I purchase front and rear rotors by Stoptech (Performance Premium) and I purchased the stoptech pads from K8stinger. But the shudder is still there but only feeling it from the rear. Don't know if stoptech quality has gone done or what. I've checked my rotors and they have that ripple look. And yes, It only happens when the brakes are at temp and when I brake from 80 sometimes it vibrates a little from 50 on local roads.
At this point I have about 300 miles on the new pads. The shutter has completely disappeared. Or en tried getting them a bit hot yesterday and no shaking. So far I’m very happy. Did you just do your brakes? I did notice you have to do the bedding process because when I first started bedding I could feel it shake a bit.
@@OVRBoosted I had mine done right around the end of Spring, I changed the pads first and then rotors, because most people on the forums said the issue comes from the pads. But right after I changed the pads it worked well for about maybe a month and then back to the shuddering, same when I changed the rotors too, but now I feel the shuddering from the rear. I can live with the shuddering for now since I don't race or drive like a maniac. haha
@@terrorsz75 do you have any warranty left?
@@OVRBoosted Not sure about that. It's probably a little too late. I think since the summer I've put on about 9k - 10k miles. Originally I changed the pad and rotors around 3k. I got the Stinger right around the shut down so it was in the drive way more than the roads. hahaha
@@terrorsz75 it’s strange that you feel it in the back. Most braking is done on the front brakes. I only changed out the front pads and it’s completely gone. The brakes never felt better. I know k8 runs the same pads on their shop stinger as well and they also said there shake went away.
I have purchased Z26-6012 by power stop from Amazon and will update you once swapped
Sounds good, I think you will be very happy with power stop. If the evaluations hold up the z26 is the performance line and should be even better.
For some reason the USA did not go with original Brembo brake pads for stinger, here in Australia if you take the pad out they are marked Brembo on the back of the pads. Something about USA Law regarding the pads, did you try looking for original Brembo pads and could you find them over there?
I’m up in Canada am I’m not sure what pads they decided to use. They are no good though. Since installing the new pads I have had no issues.
do I need to have facing on the rotors due fixing the new z26 please..
It wouldn’t hurt to have the rotors turned. It’s cheap to have done and it’s a good piece of mind. My car only had 5000km on those brakes so I didn’t bother to turn the rotors.
haha nice how you blocked off the speedometer but forgot to block heads up display speed :D
Yeah, that was my mistake for sure.
I ordered the Stop Techs but they don't fit like the oem. They are superior but they are slightly smaller and move within the caliper.
A lot of guys say the stop tech make noise? K8 recommended the power stop as they run them on their shop stinger.
I own a Dodge Challenger R/T and a G70, both have 4 piston Brembo brakes. The only difference is the Challenger has slotted rotors. Zero vibration from my Challenger and the G70……vibration like crazy. I just bought new pads and slotted rotors. Slotted rotors clean the build up off the pads which is creating the issue.
I just swapped the front pads as seen in the video, no vibrations for over a year so far.
Any more updates on the braking? About to purchase if this is a fix.
About 800 miles so far and no shake as of yet.
So, people still believe the vibration are pads issue that needs replacing instead of just cleaning the deposits off the rotors ? He felt slight vibrations, because he may not have cleaned off the rotors or the rotors have uneven wear on them ?? but if you're going to buy new pads for a Stinger GT, why would you get the Evolution ? The Extreme Z26, that I got, are the more direct replacement level that would match the bembro level for that car. My Z26 Rear I got seem great so far, so I recommend Powerstop too, but mine needed changing due to wear down and time to change. I've felt the vibration everyone talks about on my Stinger, but it always went away on it's own, after a hard brake or two. My front are still stock pads, at over 40K miles (72K kms) and they'll make it to the spring/summer, it seems. I'll get the Z26 for the front too. and if my rotors are still within Spec and safe, I'll just turn them and re-use one more time. They're quality durable bembro rotors, why would folks change them ??? until they need it ?? Sadly, Powerstop doesn't make Plain smooth rotors for Stingers. only drilled kind, of which i do NOT want. Plain is just fine and better..
Aare we supposed to go with Evolution pads now or try to get StopTech when they're back in stock?
I went with the power stop pads. K8 stinger store recommended them because they run them on their shop stinger. Power stop has a higher performance pad that I believe is a z26. I should have went with those, but I haven’t had any issues with the evaluation. K8 said they are a better pad then stopTech.
The ol pad slap. If your gonna perform a "pad slap" at least pull the rotor off and sand the glaze off the rotors. I would prefer a .05 cut on the lathe myself.....on that note enjoying the channel. 25+ year tech here.
Thank you for the advice, it is appreciated and I’m definitely not a mechanic. The car only had about 4,000km on it at the time of the swap. I now have about 10,000km on the car and haven’t had any shake at all. I might have got lucky. I was attempting to show people the cheapest way to stop their vibrating brakes.
good video but funny how you blurred out the speedo but the HUD still shows the digital speed readout
i love my stinger too
Lol my error of course. It’s a good thing I’m down in Mexico 😂
@@OVRBoosted Great video, my 22 does the same shaking when applying the brakes. I'm going to have to change the pads. Also, why do you and other people keep saying that they're "down in Mexico?!"
@@williamblackwell9968 i highly recommend the power stop pads. I’m very happy so far with the performance. K8 store will set you up if you shoot them an email. They do run those pads on their shop stinger. People say they are in “Mexico” due to there being not the same rules that there is here.
@@OVRBoosted I mean, sure you can say that if you want, but what I don't understand is why people think that doing so somehow protects them from the cops in any way. If the cops wanted to prosecute based on a UA-cam video (where all of the signs are in English; and anyone familiar with the area would know exactly where the video took place), its not like they're going to then say, "Oh, wait! In the comments the suspect told everyone that they were in Mexico, nevermind, they got us again!"
Besides, your GPS says that you're at the intersection of Symons Valley Parkway and Kincora Gate NW. A quick google search tells me you're in in Calgary, AB. 😬
@@williamblackwell9968 I think it’s more of a running joke more then anything
Did after awhile it’ll do it randomly sometimes. You need to change the rotors too.
What pads did you use?
@@OVRBoosted stoptech, dealership recommended it. Then they just changed the rotors and gave me new ones
Hi greetings from Tabasco México, i have a Stinger 2.0 with just 1000 kilometers and I feel I vibration when I put the brakes at 80 kilometers per hou o less, what do you think is the problem? Do you think is the same issue? Do you recommend to change the paddles? Do I have to rectify my discs? Thank you very much in advance.
Do you have the brembo brakes? If you replace the pads it will usually fix the vibration. Kia used a brake pad that has a softer compound. So when they heat up little particles stick to the rotor causing a vibration. I’d switch the pads to power stop pads and you can get those at the k8 stinger store. You could also just have the rotors re surfaced if you wanted. But with only 1000km it’s most likely just the brake pads.
@@OVRBoosted hi, the 2.0 at least here in Mexico, came equipped with ordinary pads no whit the Brembo, just 1000 kilometers it is incredible to have that problem! I will replace them and I will let you know as soon as possible, thank you very much.
Good information.. i have the G70 with same issues every 15k miles. Need to turn rotors.. that will fix the shake issue
I got the power stops just like you. Installed them, but seem to hear like a shake or rattle noise, they brake fine but idk how I feel about that
I have no shake or rattle noises. Are you sure the pads are in correctly and you didn’t miss putting the pin through the pad correctly? I’d double check that everything is installed correctly.
@OVRBoosted I'm gonna take it apart and check it again, did you re use the plate that sits on the pad and contacts the pistons? I didn't get a new one in my stoptech kit but I did get a new clip
@@losttyrant7482 there should be a plate mounted directly on the brake pad. I re used the metal retainer clips
@OVRBoosted reinstalled them, I had the clips in backwards 😮💨 Thanks for all the help bro!
@@losttyrant7482 no problem, that’s what I’m here for is to try and help people out as well as get help from others.
I have about 13k miles on my 22, no brake issues as of yet.
I heard a lot of people say the 22-23 models don’t experience it as much. I wonder if they switched out the pads for those years.
Cquence slotted rotors.
I just bought a used stinger GT2 with 20k miles and I notice it slightly. I went in with prior knowledge of the issue and crossed my fingers but it's definitely there lol. I'm assuming the residual shake you felt was due to not replacing the rear pads. So, it's been 5 months since you did the fix, did the issue come back? I'm not really a car expert but I might take a whack at following your guide on this.
The issue has never come back. I’d definitely recommend swapping out the pads with power stop from k8. Since you have 20k miles I’d just get the rotors turned. That should completely solve any vibration problems.
Brembo are probably the easiest pads to change. If my video doesn’t fully help you, there is a ton on UA-cam to help you get it done. The biggest piece of advice when doing them is to make sure you get the pins to hold down the retaining clip properly. Also when the job is complete start the car and pump up the brake peddle before driving it anywhere or putting it in gear.
Did you only change the front pads here?
@@kamandor only the fronts so far and it eliminated the shake. I will be changing rears in the summer.
Service the brakes once a year and don't drive like youre racing and you won't have a problem. If you hammer on any brakes the rotors can warp temporarily or permamnently, I own a gt2 never had a problem in 80 thousand KM
The stock brake pads are known to leave deposits on the rotor giving a vibration. I swapped just the front pads and drive hard with zero vibration after over a year.
Be watching but every time I see a car with these calipers I see disc with holes in it I wonder if kia being cheap with this rotors
I’m sure they cut costs, but I replaced just the pads and the brakes have never felt better in that car.
So it's been a year, are they still good?
No issues at all to report and zero brake shake.
@@OVRBoosted nice, I have a g70 3.3 with the same issue. Only when they get hot.
@@SparkyWrench try a better pad, but if the rotors have a lot of miles I’d recommend having them turned. The issue on the stinger is the pour quality break pads from the factory.
@@OVRBoosted I remembered watching your video several months ago, wanted to see brand. I'm looking at the z26 warrior option.
@@SparkyWrench it’s a good option, if you contact the guys at k8 they might even have better options now. They also test some of the pads on their shop stinger.
Two or three crash-stops from 100kph will clear the dust build up off the pads and the shudder will disappear.
The rotors do not warp. Don't know what all the drama is about.
I put the new pads Iim and ha I had an issue since.
I HOPE THIS - ........ helps fix - .......THE ISSUE
It’s helped - fix - the issue - for myself so far. 300 miles on them so far.
Steel rotors and cheap pads are most likely the issue.
They should have at least put a performance vented rotors from factory.
I’m not sure about that only because my brake shake had completely gone away by swapping the pads. Kia used a pad that would leave deposits on the rotor when heated up. That’s what would give the vibration. Once the deposits cooled down they would clean off the rotor. Then the process would repeat. I have over 1000 miles on the new pads and no shake.
OEM are vented rotors.
@@rpmautoreviews9249 I meant to put slotted and drilled performance rotors. Still the problem are the rotors
@@410ytlmustang Rotors are just fine and solid !! Not the rotors. Drilled and slotted rotors are weaker a bit more prone to crack in winter, they wear down your pads sooner, so you buy quality pads to have them worn down faster, they can be noisier, They just look so fn cool, but theyre not really better performance in braking. maybe a tiny bit better in the right sweet spot of bit hard driving and they heat up if prolonged spirited hard braking, but for real hard braking on a track or everyday spirited driving on windy roads, No, plain will perform better. Unless you can afford $2k per rotor for the true racing type
@@410ytlmustang The problem is NOT the rotors and are in fact the pads themselves - a well known issue and fix on the Stinger forums.
"Cleaning the rotors," - you gotta get them resurfaced man. Take into account that the pads grip both the proximal and distal surfaces of the rotor. Unless you're gonna take the rotors completely off and clean the proximal part of the rotor then it's pointless. Furthermore "cleaning" doesn't properly remove the resin from the old brake pads in order to bed the new ones on a fresh surface. The only way to do that is to get the rotors resurfaced. Cheaping out doesn't sound like a good idea with this.
I see your point of view. I have had warped rotors in other cars and you can tell they are warped if the brakes are e hot or cold and under light and hard braking. The stinger only vibrates when hot then it goes away. Over 1000miles on just the pads I changed and zero shake under hard breaking.
@@OVRBoosted I watched your entire video. You said there was ever so slightly a vibration if you really payed attention, you could have probably 100% gotten rid of the vibrations overall if you would have followed standard pad and rotor procedure (which mind you is already very inexpensive). Could probably be because the rotors were not refurfaced prior to new pads. So essentially you have old caked on resin on both sides of the rotor and new pads that tried to get their factory resin bedded into the rotor to create a silky smooth surface, but that was not possible because the rotors were not resurfaced. Not trying to argue with you just saying that it's already very cheap to do this and that's the right way to do it.
Absolutely agree, I did only do the front pads and as time went on around the 200 mile mark there isn’t any shake at all anymore. I’m sure I would’ve gone wrong if I turned the rotors. My videos intention was to get rid of the vibration the cheapest way possible. I honestly thought I’d be doing rotors, I didn’t expect the pads to work.
Blurred speedo but...HUD left on, LOL. Not sure why people even bother. Like someone is going to use this against you.
Haha yeah I know, it’s been pointing out. I noticed it when I uploaded the video, but I just left it cause I wasn’t doing anything crazy.
Stoptech squeak so much. So good thing you didn’t get them
David at k8 told me the same thing. So he sent me the powerstop pads that they run on their shop stinger. So far so good.
Weird thing is I’m on my 3rd set of rotors and pads and it’s still shaking and vibrating.
Are they stock pads and rotors?
No, I got R1 concept rotors and pads. It is so annoying. Everyone seems to be loving their car but I spent about 10,000$ in 6 months owning it.
@@HanHsu910 that’s crazy! I wonder if you got a bad one? I know a lot of people run the R1 and have no issues. I just swapped out my pads and my brake shake has been gone ever since. Maybe there is a potential other issue?
@@OVRBoosted It is super weird, it only does that on the highway above 100 Km an hour when I press the brake. Brakes doesn’t seem to be stopping fast also. I have some bent rims I’m getting new wheels maybe that’s the issue. I hope haha
@@HanHsu910 oh yeah, bent wheels will give the sensation of vibrations. I had Bent wheels on another car and experienced some vibrations.
Always scares me when a "Mechanic" uses a claw hammer.
It’s a great thing I’m not a mechanic, but the claw hammer 🔨 worked great! Lol
its not k-16 its 16-6012-z16
Thank you for the correction. The z26 are a more performance based pad. I’d return over the z16
@@OVRBoosted I love your Chanel ! How is the brake now? And on the track?
@@jonathanpoulin6150 the breaks still are perfect no shake has come back yet. I have some new content coming. It’s winter where I live and I have the car tucked away, but I have some new flow forged rims coming up and I’ll also be doing some tire reviews that are budget friendly. So stay tuned the spring and summer is when I will be pumping out content again.
@@OVRBoosted im living in Qc And I just hear about yellow EBC...
@@jonathanpoulin6150 have seen guys talk about them. These pads I used were recommended by k8stingerstore and I only got them because they also run them on their stock stinger and have no issues.
easy brake job...Throw the rotor screws in the trash
Doesn’t get much easier with brembo. I hear you on those rotor screws.
@@OVRBoosted I did the fronts,the rears are on back order at powerstop for another month LOL
@@excelerater you will probably be fine and have no shake running g the fronts. I know mine went away and I did the same thing.
@@OVRBoosted The front were def the biggest culprit,dealer fixed them twice and just cut the OEMs,so glad to be away from that scam
I've replaced my front rotors with dimpled and slotted, replaced the pads with same pads as you, replaced all 4 brake lines with steel braided lines. Still at high temp from about 120mph on the brakes aggressive still have shaking but not as bad. Maybe I'll need to replace the rears rotors as well with slotted and maybe I'll go with a drilled in the front. This is a ridiculous issue
It is a ridiculous issue, so far I haven’t had an issue unless I really heat them up to the point of smoking. Other then that it’s been a night and day difference so far.