Thanks for the video. I was able to change out the rear mount and now I have no more vibrations while idling in gear. I put in the factory OEM mount and it feels like a new car!
You're welcome! Did the replacement of the mounts help with the vibrations? In addition to mounts, vibrations can also occur due to maintenance items like oil change, throttle plate cleaning, fuel injector cleaning.
Thanks! The rear is relatively easy. Side mount is easy too. The front mount is a lil more involved as you have to remove the radiator fans (and radiator hose directly above the mount) if you want lots more wiggle room.
How did you torque the one bolt to spec? The bolt that attaches the mount to the engine? The one were you had to use a swivel head rachet to remove in the first place?
This was years ago. I don't exactly remember. Most likely with a torque wrench, I have 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch drive torque wrenches. I also have universal joint adapters. The tools I own are listed in the video description.
Does anyone know how much the whole will cost you. With parts and labor. Also , the time it would take a mechanic to fix this issue?
5 років тому
Great video man. I had to replace my high pressure power steering hose, but I feel like it would be better to remove the rear motor mount 1st for more clearance. Wish me luck man. Any tips/advice on replacing the high pressure power steering hose?
Good luck on your high pressure power steering hose replacement. I recommend watching some videos on people that have replaced the high pressure power steering hose. I have never done that. If you can't find videos specific to the TSX, search the Honda accord videos or simply k24 engine cars.
@@ChavezDIY I feel it. It’s a good car man I enjoy driving it. I had a little transmission hiccup going from first to second a while ago. I drain/filled the tranny fluid twice and now it’s gone. Just a heads up!
I bought my OEM service manual (first gen) on eBay many years ago, it was about $90. Here is a link to an electronic version (2nd gen) I found online drive.google.com/file/d/19Uz97J0DdUuleKp4kOVCdAeC-tEgfl8e/view?usp=sharing
Is the rear the most common one to fail? I have clunking noise when I start from a stop. It seems to be very dirty as if the hydraulic fluid is leaking
Michael Fleming my front mount was more damaged than my rear mount. The top was completely separated from the body of the mount. It was hard to assess damage without removing it but you can try a larger pry bar and wiggle it. Front and rear were both replaced a few months from each other. My rear didn't have fluid, only the front had fluid.
It's not so much about helping, but more about changing the way the car rides. There are pros and cons to all mods you do on a car. The bar allows the car to remain more stabilized and flat on corners and while driving at high speeds. The cons is that your turns radius will be wider and youll feel the vibrations from the road more at the front. You sacrifice comfort for sportier handling.
@@ChavezDIY Got it. Mine is a daily driver. I’m not much of a speed demon anymore. 😆 Just looking to have my car drive and ride like when I first bought. I want to give it to my daughter when she is old enough to drive. Thanks 🙏🏽
Miguel, watching this it felt like I was getting therapy from a car guy. In a way similar to how Bob Ross would deliver delightful pleasantries while painting "happy little trees". *Birds chirping in the background* "Hi, and welcome to series 31 of The Joys of TSX Car Repair, I'm Miguel Chavez. If this is your first time watching please allow me to extend a personal invitation for you to join us, come along as we go on a subdued but informative journey. On last week's episode we had discussed an unusual clunking we were getting while accelerating hard in the Sleigh.... Today we will be delving deeper into this mystery clunk in an episode aptly named: Acura TSX - Rear Engine Mount Replacement. See this here? Well this is an unhappy little motor mount right here...uh huh... We're just gonna and pop that out in 5 easy steps. [5 *easy* steps done off camera]. All right. See this? Mmm. I shouldn't be able to wiggle this with my finger." Insert a little Bob Barker - Price is Right PSA about not forgetting to zero out your torque wrench (and spay/neuter your pet) "Don't you just love the way OEM parts harmonize with the rest of the car? Aaaand we're done..." Immediately followed up with: "...my goal here today was to help..." Well sir, I would say you have. Thank you.
LOL! That comment was Epic! Loved it. I can tell you're a creative writer....and somehow you were able to notice something about me, my day job is working as a psychotherapist.
Wrapping up the video I was thinking to myself "man, this has to be the most even-keeled, soft spoken car guy I have ever seen" (I'm sure there is a Scotty Kilmer cocaine comparison joke there somewhere). Too bad you're in California, seems like you'd be a cool guy to have a beer with. Joking aside I really do appreciate you taking the time to put this together. In the near future I too will be embarking on this same journey. At least now I can start mine without a sense of anxiety about the "what-ifs". EDIT: Liked and Subscribed. :thumbup:
I don't have a video for the front mount. The front mount does have a vacuum line that connects under the mount. Your car should already have the vacuum line going to the mount from under the subframe directly under the mount. You might need some needle nose pliers to remove and install the hose.
@@ChavezDIY Yes I need to check it well under there to see if my mechanic left it disconnected or it fell off. I checked quickly this morning and saw there was no line connected to the bottom of the mount. Also do you think this is why the car still shakes alot when I am at a stop sign. It also shakes when I’m on drive or reverse. I changed out all the motor and transmission mounts 2 yrs ago. Trying to figure out the shaking. It’s very annoying. 😂 I already replaced all the new intake system with a used/new one. Cleaned all the throttle body the map sensor and air flow sensor on the intake tube. Thanks 🙏🏽
I don't think the tube is the reason why your car is shaking. Did you use aftermarket mounts? I used OEM mounts and the car felt like when it was new. It's common to have vibration issues when you use aftermarket engine mounts. The front and rear engine mounts impact engine vibrations the most so don't use aftermarket mounts on those. Aside from mounts, the usual maintenance items help but it sounds like you got that covered. Regular Oil changes 5k-6k mi with synthetic oil helps too.
@@ChavezDIY Yes it’s aftermarket part. I will try to reconnect the hose or buy a new. If that doesn’t fix it at all. I will definitely buy a used oem motor part. I would probably buy the back motor part and replace it with an oem one also. Thanks alot for feedback.
I changed out my serpentine belt because it snapped while driving. But I noticed one of the mounts next to the belt is messed up. Is this called the passenger mount?
Yes, its the passenger mount, or side engine mount. The engine only has three mounts, front, rear, and side. The transmission has three mounts, two lower mounts and one upper.
The front and rear engine mounts had the most improvement on the engine vibrations. Shaking at idle is complicated because it can be engine mounts, transmission mounts, or engine needing a tuneup (oil change, air filter cleaning, fuel injector cleaning, spark plug replacement, transmission drain and refill, throttle body cleaning, vacuum leaks, radiator leaking). Check for cracks on the engine mounts. The front engine mount has fluid so if its leaking you know its going out. You can use a large pry bar, but that's not a sure to way to check because the engine sits on the front and rear mount. But you may get a better idea by lifting the engine from the flat bottom of the transmission with your floor jack (and a piece of wood wedged between jack and transmission) and you'll see if the front/rear engine mounts and transmission mounts are still attached, cracked or separated.
There's no rule about that. You want to replace the mounts on both the engine and transmission that are broken or have stress cracks. You'll have to check the mounts individually by carefully lifting the engine with a jack or using a large pry bar to see if the rubber separates when you pry up on the mount. If you buy aftermarket mounts they may be stiffer than the original mounts.
Hello just wondering what are some signs of a failing mount. On start up I hear a clunky noise as if my engine moves. I feel movement by the gas pedal floor pan. I just recently did the rack and pinion and everything was fine for a few months now this.....
I had a small lag in acceleration due to engine movement, It was not severe but it was enough for to me to notice it because I have owned the car since 2009. I could also feel the vibrations of the engine more during idle at a red light and when the car is warming up on a cold start. I tried filming the engine movement by recording the engine startup with my cell phone on a tripod, but it wasn't helpful. I don't know how old is you car but after 12 years mark expect more problems to pop up over time. Best method I found for checking mounts is getting a large pry bar and wedge it where the rubber mount bolts to the engine. Basically try to lift the engine from the mounts with the pry bar. Thats when I saw the cracks and separation of the rubber. Its hard to notice it without doing this because the car's weight keeps the rubber pressed together. My front and rear engine mounts were completely separated. I replaced the side engine mount as preventive maintenance, but it was still intact.
I'm trying to remember, its been a while. One thing I remember was I could feel the engine having more movement upon hard acceleration, like a lag. I also felt more engine vibrations in the cabin. Another thing was that the mounts were already past 10 years old and 100k mi, usually by then the engine mounts would be worn out. I also noticed that after a rainy day there were cracks/creases around the rubber of the mount where water was seeping in or spilling out, kinda like when you wet a stucco wall and the water gets absorbed in the cracks and the cracks are visible as the wall dries. You can lift the engine with a floor jack to see if your mounts are broken. Just wedge a piece of wood where the jack meets the engine. Lift towards the rear, for the rear mount, and lift towards the front for the front mount.
I have an 03 accord 2.4L automatic. I went to replace the rear motor mount and the top bolt that mounts to the mount bracket went in but it’s pretty tight , and it won’t go anymore. I ended up leaving it like that because it was so tight I was unable to screw it all of the way. I tried jacking up the car, and lowering it to different levels to none available. Should I be okay driving it like that?
Do you have any idea how many threads on the bolt went in? Half? one quarter? My concern is that if you don't have good grip, that bolt can eventually fall out or shear off with the engine vibrations. It sounds like it could be crossthreaded. When you insert a bolt it needs to go in smooth, if you sense resistance, back it out and try again. Back the bolt out and inspect the threads for damage. Use a wire brush to clean the threads before reinserting it. I also recommend to clean out the hole where the bolt will go into. Sometimes a grain of sand can throw off the threading. If you can't see the hole, take a photo with your selfie cam on your cell phone and clean it out with a Q tip or brake cleaner.
@@ChavezDIY The bolt isn’t coming off for sure. It is there maybe 75 percent of the way in. Issue is there is like no way to get leverage to be able to turn it as its tight. I’m not sure if I should leave it or change removing it to try and get it in right . My son was helping me, and instead of letting me know it was going in not so smooth he kept on going. If I was to try should I leave it leveled in the ground or jack it up a bit on the oil pan?
@@gloglo1275 75 percent of the way is good enough for it to hold. If its in that deep and crooked, you may not be able to straighten it out again. I had a mechanic install my H&R anti roll bars and he crossthreaded one of the bolts. I wasn't able to straighten it and no way I was going to chase a new thread in so I kept it that way and just added a washer to fill the gap. If you want it to go in a tad bit further you can add penetrating oil to the threads before reinserting it. You can also do what I did and use some washers to close the gap that's left. I would try to jack it up a bit, but do it from under the transmission case.
@@gloglo1275 Here's an interesting technique to keep in mind for the future. ua-cam.com/video/s2PdD-gZTx4/v-deo.html I wouldn't try this for the first time on a bolt that's hard to see and where you don't have good leverage.
@@ChavezDIY Yeah I’m very careful and I did my sons 05 Acura TL the same mount so I thought I could count on him to do mine since his was truly a pain to do, but I could not see he was putting that much torque on the bolt when that should have not gotten in with that much force. I was already thinking about replacing the mount bracket to get the bolt put in right, but it’s 3/4 already in.
@@ChavezDIY Do you know where I can find a new one? Mine seems to have disappeared. 😂 My car is shaking alot when on Drive or reverse but it shakes even more when I’m at a stop sign.
I think its number 17 on this link. www.oemacuraparts.com/v-2005-acura-tsx--base--2-4l-l4-gas/body-air-conditioning--engine-mounts-at I don't think the tube will improve your engine shaking. I believe the tube helps to stiffen the mount under hard braking or hard acceleration.
You can lift your engine or transmission with your floor jack about an inch and check to see if the rubber on the mount separates. Use a piece of wood between the floor jack and the engine/transmission to prevent damage. A damaged mount will separate at the rubber when you lift it. A good mount should stay firmly attached at the rubber. You can check for cracks by spraying the rubber part of the mount with water, as the water dries up youll see the crack lines. If the mount is cracked but still attached you don't need to replace it yet unless you really want to spend the money.
Excessive engine vibrations felt inside the car. After the car had over 11yrs of age, I figured some of the mounts were going to go out so I decided to replace them all to get less vibrations from the engine inside the car like when I first drove it many years ago. All transmission and engine mounts were broken except for the side engine mount, but I still replaced it anyways.
No, it did not leak any fluid. The top was cracked but it was not loose enough to completely separate it from the rest of the mount. I believe the rear mount may not have fluid in it. The front mount did have fluid and it leaked and the top part completely separated from the rest of the mount. I recommend going OEM even if it is not hydraulic.
I can't say for certain, but they're both K24s and their setups are pretty much the same, so its safe to say yes its the same process for the honda accord k24
No, its not necessary to touch any other mount while working on the rear engine mount, just support the engine/transmission from underneath with your floor jack and a piece of wood wedged in between.
So you didn't put the piece of wood on the oil pan but else where? I was trying to see exactly where you put it but can't see it could you send me a picture or something please.
@@Alvaresmaico20 Some people use the oil pan but its not recommended. I like to use the underside of the transmission to support the engine and transmission. As soon as you notice the engine being lifted you can stop jacking it up further.
Alright so i got done changing the rear engine mount pretty easy thank you., i'm still having the Rattle noise from the Auto tensioner when i have the car on Drive or Reverse so on to the Trans mounts next.
Here's the link to the 05 TSX mounts, they're the same as 04. www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-parts/2005/acura/tsx-sedan/tsx-trim/5-speed-automatic-engine/body-air-conditioning-cat/engine-mounts-at-scat/?part_number=50870seae01
Its a 3/8 drive ratchet with flex head and extension. It is made by Stanley. Here's the link on amazon, but it comes in a kit with sockets amzn.to/2CWBbgk. Since I didn't need the sockets I bought the ratchet by itself at Walmart. www.walmart.com/ip/STANLEY-STMT72418-Extendable-Ratchet/36132572.
Yes, I reused all the bolts. No, I didn't have any issues. I used OEM mounts for the three transmission mounts and the three engine mounts and it drove like new. I live in southern California, we don't have rusted bolt issues like people in the colder states.
It's ok to use aftermarket mounts if you don't have the money for OEM mounts. Just realize they may not last long and may not absorb vibrations like the OEM. If you're going to use aftermarket parts, I recommend to look at the selection from partsgeek.com I've ordered parts from them, it's a solid website for car parts.
I bought my manual on eBay many years ago and it cost me about $80, but it was well worth it. You can find the 2009 (2nd generation) manual online for free. There are a lot of similarities in both manuals. www.ifixit.com/Document/BvkwBN3DDQPac21J/Manuel_Shop_Acura_TSX_2009.pdf
That wrench was likely discontinued and now its hard to find. There are other flex head wrenches on amazon that have teeth where it locks in at different degrees in the flex, but I don't have experience with those. Then only place I found that Stanley wrench is on this website: www.govets.com/stanley-076174926453-310-65469314.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAjc2QBhDgARIsAMc3SqR1wPDlbtATezAEhO2_IgGAQsRY5aTkNLkY8EQiz4-usY_uRIjoZxkaAmRHEALw_wcB
John I was anticipating a change in the torquing power from the addition of the extension. I figured maybe it would have less torquing power with the addition of the extension. So I did a test on a suspension bolt with similar torque specs and found no difference adding the extension. Did you think adding the extension would increase or decrease the torquing power?
Na, you talking about tension and compression on the extension. Under constant pressure, torque wrench will still click when the wrench reaches setting. The WD-40 and used fasteners will effect specs though.
Haha! I've had the car for like 10 years now and in the first five years I washed it once a week and waxed it myself. Now I wash it like once a month simply because it ranks low in priority compared to all the other things I do. When I was single, no kids, and no mortgage was when I took best care of my cars. Now with kids, mortgage, house chores, professional career...yeah its not high priority. I also notice I take better care of things when I first own it and over time I start to let things go a bit.
***CHECK VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR LINKS+UPDATES+CORRECTIONS+MORE INFO***
Thanks for the video. I was able to change out the rear mount and now I have no more vibrations while idling in gear. I put in the factory OEM mount and it feels like a new car!
You're welcome! It's a beautiful feeling when you get your car feeling like new again. =)
I was actually looking for help on how to change a mount and you really gave some great explanations 👍
Glad to be able to help a brother out! Car feels smoother with new mounts.
thank you man! I just replaced all my mounts with oem mounts to stop some of the vibrating in the bay
You're welcome! Did the replacement of the mounts help with the vibrations? In addition to mounts, vibrations can also occur due to maintenance items like oil change, throttle plate cleaning, fuel injector cleaning.
Yes!! We changed them on my buddies tsx and it stopped the annoying vibration whenever we’d be at a stop. All the mounts were trashed and leaking
Thanks man keep up the good wrks god bless you some good
Cars .still in 2024 .
Awesome! I appreciate that! =)
Nice video! I didn’t realize how easy it was I am def changing mine when it gets warmer outside! Thanks!!
Thanks! The rear is relatively easy. Side mount is easy too. The front mount is a lil more involved as you have to remove the radiator fans (and radiator hose directly above the mount) if you want lots more wiggle room.
Good video compared to others more close up details looks EZ from your view also like your fancy extended ratchet set overall NICELY DONE 👍
Thanks for the feedback brother! Good luck working on your engine mounts! =)
Really well made video. I found it very helpful, thank you
Awesome! Glad it helped.
How did you torque the one bolt to spec? The bolt that attaches the mount to the engine? The one were you had to use a swivel head rachet to remove in the first place?
This was years ago. I don't exactly remember. Most likely with a torque wrench, I have 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch drive torque wrenches. I also have universal joint adapters. The tools I own are listed in the video description.
Does anyone know how much the whole will cost you. With parts and labor. Also , the time it would take a mechanic to fix this issue?
Great video man. I had to replace my high pressure power steering hose, but I feel like it would be better to remove the rear motor mount 1st for more clearance. Wish me luck man. Any tips/advice on replacing the high pressure power steering hose?
Good luck on your high pressure power steering hose replacement. I recommend watching some videos on people that have replaced the high pressure power steering hose. I have never done that. If you can't find videos specific to the TSX, search the Honda accord videos or simply k24 engine cars.
Thanks for the video! I'm gonna give it a shot
Awesome! Good luck! 💪🏼
Hell yeah brother another video I used of yours! Thank you! Still got your tsx? Just hit 156K on mine and replaced all engine mounts last night
Awesome! Yes, I still have it, I'm broke so I can't afford another car. I'm going to keep it going as long as I can. I have about 151k mi on mine.
@@ChavezDIY I feel it. It’s a good car man I enjoy driving it. I had a little transmission hiccup going from first to second a while ago. I drain/filled the tranny fluid twice and now it’s gone. Just a heads up!
Where can I get the service manual for my Acura Tsx? It's 08/09.
I bought my OEM service manual (first gen) on eBay many years ago, it was about $90. Here is a link to an electronic version (2nd gen) I found online drive.google.com/file/d/19Uz97J0DdUuleKp4kOVCdAeC-tEgfl8e/view?usp=sharing
Is the rear the most common one to fail? I have clunking noise when I start from a stop. It seems to be very dirty as if the hydraulic fluid is leaking
Michael Fleming my front mount was more damaged than my rear mount. The top was completely separated from the body of the mount. It was hard to assess damage without removing it but you can try a larger pry bar and wiggle it. Front and rear were both replaced a few months from each other. My rear didn't have fluid, only the front had fluid.
How does an aftermarket strut bar help the ride on this car? Or what are the main differences?
It's not so much about helping, but more about changing the way the car rides. There are pros and cons to all mods you do on a car. The bar allows the car to remain more stabilized and flat on corners and while driving at high speeds. The cons is that your turns radius will be wider and youll feel the vibrations from the road more at the front. You sacrifice comfort for sportier handling.
@@ChavezDIY Got it. Mine is a daily driver. I’m not much of a speed demon anymore. 😆 Just looking to have my car drive and ride like when I first bought. I want to give it to my daughter when she is old enough to drive. Thanks 🙏🏽
Miguel, watching this it felt like I was getting therapy from a car guy.
In a way similar to how Bob Ross would deliver delightful pleasantries while painting "happy little trees".
*Birds chirping in the background* "Hi, and welcome to series 31 of The Joys of TSX Car Repair, I'm Miguel Chavez. If this is your first time watching please allow me to extend a personal invitation for you to join us, come along as we go on a subdued but informative journey.
On last week's episode we had discussed an unusual clunking we were getting while accelerating hard in the Sleigh....
Today we will be delving deeper into this mystery clunk in an episode aptly named: Acura TSX - Rear Engine Mount Replacement.
See this here? Well this is an unhappy little motor mount right here...uh huh... We're just gonna and pop that out in 5 easy steps. [5 *easy* steps done off camera].
All right. See this? Mmm. I shouldn't be able to wiggle this with my finger."
Insert a little Bob Barker - Price is Right PSA about not forgetting to zero out your torque wrench (and spay/neuter your pet)
"Don't you just love the way OEM parts harmonize with the rest of the car? Aaaand we're done..."
Immediately followed up with: "...my goal here today was to help..."
Well sir, I would say you have. Thank you.
LOL! That comment was Epic! Loved it. I can tell you're a creative writer....and somehow you were able to notice something about me, my day job is working as a psychotherapist.
Wrapping up the video I was thinking to myself "man, this has to be the most even-keeled, soft spoken car guy I have ever seen" (I'm sure there is a Scotty Kilmer cocaine comparison joke there somewhere). Too bad you're in California, seems like you'd be a cool guy to have a beer with. Joking aside I really do appreciate you taking the time to put this together. In the near future I too will be embarking on this same journey. At least now I can start mine without a sense of anxiety about the "what-ifs".
EDIT: Liked and Subscribed. :thumbup:
Does this back motor mount have a vacuum hose at all? Just double checking.
No vacuum hose on the rear mount on this specific model year. I can't speak for other models and years.
@@ChavezDIY Thanks
@@ChavezDIY Sorry for all the questions. 🤦🏽♂️
No worries, it helps the channel anyways.
@@ChavezDIY great
Well done. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching! =)
Do you have a video changing the front motor mount on this same car?
I don't have a video for the front mount. The front mount does have a vacuum line that connects under the mount. Your car should already have the vacuum line going to the mount from under the subframe directly under the mount. You might need some needle nose pliers to remove and install the hose.
@@ChavezDIY Yes I need to check it well under there to see if my mechanic left it disconnected or it fell off. I checked quickly this morning and saw there was no line connected to the bottom of the mount. Also do you think this is why the car still shakes alot when I am at a stop sign. It also shakes when I’m on drive or reverse. I changed out all the motor and transmission mounts 2 yrs ago. Trying to figure out the shaking. It’s very annoying. 😂 I already replaced all the new intake system with a used/new one. Cleaned all the throttle body the map sensor and air flow sensor on the intake tube. Thanks 🙏🏽
I don't think the tube is the reason why your car is shaking. Did you use aftermarket mounts? I used OEM mounts and the car felt like when it was new. It's common to have vibration issues when you use aftermarket engine mounts. The front and rear engine mounts impact engine vibrations the most so don't use aftermarket mounts on those. Aside from mounts, the usual maintenance items help but it sounds like you got that covered. Regular Oil changes 5k-6k mi with synthetic oil helps too.
@@ChavezDIY Yes it’s aftermarket part. I will try to reconnect the hose or buy a new. If that doesn’t fix it at all. I will definitely buy a used oem motor part. I would probably buy the back motor part and replace it with an oem one also. Thanks alot for feedback.
@@ChavezDIY Yes I changed alot of other parts that were old on the car.
I changed out my serpentine belt because it snapped while driving. But I noticed one of the mounts next to the belt is messed up. Is this called the passenger mount?
Yes, its the passenger mount, or side engine mount. The engine only has three mounts, front, rear, and side. The transmission has three mounts, two lower mounts and one upper.
Did this fix engine shaking at idle with ac on mine shakes too much when on drive at iddle or stop
The front and rear engine mounts had the most improvement on the engine vibrations. Shaking at idle is complicated because it can be engine mounts, transmission mounts, or engine needing a tuneup (oil change, air filter cleaning, fuel injector cleaning, spark plug replacement, transmission drain and refill, throttle body cleaning, vacuum leaks, radiator leaking). Check for cracks on the engine mounts. The front engine mount has fluid so if its leaking you know its going out. You can use a large pry bar, but that's not a sure to way to check because the engine sits on the front and rear mount. But you may get a better idea by lifting the engine from the flat bottom of the transmission with your floor jack (and a piece of wood wedged between jack and transmission) and you'll see if the front/rear engine mounts and transmission mounts are still attached, cracked or separated.
Do u have to replace both engine and transmission mounts to stop the vibrations. I have 04 tsx
There's no rule about that. You want to replace the mounts on both the engine and transmission that are broken or have stress cracks. You'll have to check the mounts individually by carefully lifting the engine with a jack or using a large pry bar to see if the rubber separates when you pry up on the mount. If you buy aftermarket mounts they may be stiffer than the original mounts.
Hello just wondering what are some signs of a failing mount. On start up I hear a clunky noise as if my engine moves. I feel movement by the gas pedal floor pan. I just recently did the rack and pinion and everything was fine for a few months now this.....
I had a small lag in acceleration due to engine movement, It was not severe but it was enough for to me to notice it because I have owned the car since 2009. I could also feel the vibrations of the engine more during idle at a red light and when the car is warming up on a cold start. I tried filming the engine movement by recording the engine startup with my cell phone on a tripod, but it wasn't helpful. I don't know how old is you car but after 12 years mark expect more problems to pop up over time. Best method I found for checking mounts is getting a large pry bar and wedge it where the rubber mount bolts to the engine. Basically try to lift the engine from the mounts with the pry bar. Thats when I saw the cracks and separation of the rubber. Its hard to notice it without doing this because the car's weight keeps the rubber pressed together. My front and rear engine mounts were completely separated. I replaced the side engine mount as preventive maintenance, but it was still intact.
how do you know the rear mount was bad? what the car was doing?thanks
I'm trying to remember, its been a while. One thing I remember was I could feel the engine having more movement upon hard acceleration, like a lag. I also felt more engine vibrations in the cabin. Another thing was that the mounts were already past 10 years old and 100k mi, usually by then the engine mounts would be worn out. I also noticed that after a rainy day there were cracks/creases around the rubber of the mount where water was seeping in or spilling out, kinda like when you wet a stucco wall and the water gets absorbed in the cracks and the cracks are visible as the wall dries. You can lift the engine with a floor jack to see if your mounts are broken. Just wedge a piece of wood where the jack meets the engine. Lift towards the rear, for the rear mount, and lift towards the front for the front mount.
Was Helpful
Awesome! Happy new year! 🥳
What size bolts are those (4) at the base of the motor mount?? I have one missing.
I don't know the size. You might find it at the dealer online. Check with www.oemacuraparts.com/ I buy my original Acura parts from them.
@@ChavezDIY Thanks
Thanks for the video !
You're welcome!! 😎
I have an 03 accord 2.4L automatic. I went to replace the rear motor mount and the top bolt that mounts to the mount bracket went in but it’s pretty tight , and it won’t go anymore. I ended up leaving it like that because it was so tight I was unable to screw it all of the way. I tried jacking up the car, and lowering it to different levels to none available. Should I be okay driving it like that?
Do you have any idea how many threads on the bolt went in? Half? one quarter? My concern is that if you don't have good grip, that bolt can eventually fall out or shear off with the engine vibrations. It sounds like it could be crossthreaded. When you insert a bolt it needs to go in smooth, if you sense resistance, back it out and try again. Back the bolt out and inspect the threads for damage. Use a wire brush to clean the threads before reinserting it. I also recommend to clean out the hole where the bolt will go into. Sometimes a grain of sand can throw off the threading. If you can't see the hole, take a photo with your selfie cam on your cell phone and clean it out with a Q tip or brake cleaner.
@@ChavezDIY
The bolt isn’t coming off for sure. It is there maybe 75 percent of the way in. Issue is there is like no way to get leverage to be able to turn it as its tight. I’m not sure if I should leave it or change removing it to try and get it in right . My son was helping me, and instead of letting me know it was going in not so smooth he kept on going. If I was to try should I leave it leveled in the ground or jack it up a bit on the oil pan?
@@gloglo1275 75 percent of the way is good enough for it to hold. If its in that deep and crooked, you may not be able to straighten it out again. I had a mechanic install my H&R anti roll bars and he crossthreaded one of the bolts. I wasn't able to straighten it and no way I was going to chase a new thread in so I kept it that way and just added a washer to fill the gap. If you want it to go in a tad bit further you can add penetrating oil to the threads before reinserting it. You can also do what I did and use some washers to close the gap that's left. I would try to jack it up a bit, but do it from under the transmission case.
@@gloglo1275 Here's an interesting technique to keep in mind for the future. ua-cam.com/video/s2PdD-gZTx4/v-deo.html I wouldn't try this for the first time on a bolt that's hard to see and where you don't have good leverage.
@@ChavezDIY
Yeah I’m very careful and I did my sons 05 Acura TL the same mount so I thought I could count on him to do mine since his was truly a pain to do, but I could not see he was putting that much torque on the bolt when that should have not gotten in with that much force. I was already thinking about replacing the mount bracket to get the bolt put in right, but it’s 3/4 already in.
Does it have a vacuum hose?? if so what’s the part number?
The rear engine mount for this TSX does not come with a vacuum hose. Only the front engine mount has a vacuum hose.
@@ChavezDIY Do you know where I can find a new one? Mine seems to have disappeared. 😂 My car is shaking alot when on Drive or reverse but it shakes even more when I’m at a stop sign.
I think its number 17 on this link. www.oemacuraparts.com/v-2005-acura-tsx--base--2-4l-l4-gas/body-air-conditioning--engine-mounts-at I don't think the tube will improve your engine shaking. I believe the tube helps to stiffen the mount under hard braking or hard acceleration.
@@ChavezDIY I meant the vacuum hose. 😂 My motor mount is in good shape I believe. Do you know the part number for the vacuum hose?
@@greatjuankenobi217 Yeah, number 17 in that link is the vacuum hose that attaches under the mount. 50943-SEA-E00
How do you know when they are damaged?
You can lift your engine or transmission with your floor jack about an inch and check to see if the rubber on the mount separates. Use a piece of wood between the floor jack and the engine/transmission to prevent damage. A damaged mount will separate at the rubber when you lift it. A good mount should stay firmly attached at the rubber. You can check for cracks by spraying the rubber part of the mount with water, as the water dries up youll see the crack lines. If the mount is cracked but still attached you don't need to replace it yet unless you really want to spend the money.
What was the reason you replaced the motor mount
Excessive engine vibrations felt inside the car. After the car had over 11yrs of age, I figured some of the mounts were going to go out so I decided to replace them all to get less vibrations from the engine inside the car like when I first drove it many years ago. All transmission and engine mounts were broken except for the side engine mount, but I still replaced it anyways.
Did the old mount leak any fluid?
No, it did not leak any fluid. The top was cracked but it was not loose enough to completely separate it from the rest of the mount. I believe the rear mount may not have fluid in it. The front mount did have fluid and it leaked and the top part completely separated from the rest of the mount. I recommend going OEM even if it is not hydraulic.
do you know if the rear mount has a vacuum line like the front mount?
The rear engine mount does not have a vacuum line.
Engine is very violent machine ...lots of explosions ! hahaha
Hahaha 😁
@@ChavezDIY great video bro
would this be the same process for the honda accord k24 ? since it has the same engine
I can't say for certain, but they're both K24s and their setups are pretty much the same, so its safe to say yes its the same process for the honda accord k24
Did you have to unbolt the front engine mount and side mount first?
No, its not necessary to touch any other mount while working on the rear engine mount, just support the engine/transmission from underneath with your floor jack and a piece of wood wedged in between.
So you didn't put the piece of wood on the oil pan but else where? I was trying to see exactly where you put it but can't see it could you send me a picture or something please.
@@Alvaresmaico20 Some people use the oil pan but its not recommended. I like to use the underside of the transmission to support the engine and transmission. As soon as you notice the engine being lifted you can stop jacking it up further.
@@Alvaresmaico20 at 4:53 in the video you can see where I jacked up the transmission from.
Alright so i got done changing the rear engine mount pretty easy thank you., i'm still having the Rattle noise from the Auto tensioner when i have the car on Drive or Reverse so on to the Trans mounts next.
What is the minimum height a floor jack would need to be?
It depends on the space that you have between the jack and the subframe. I have a low profile jack so it might be different spacing for others.
Much mounts are on a Acura tsx 04 ?I'm trying to buy all new ones
Here's the link to the 05 TSX mounts, they're the same as 04. www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-parts/2005/acura/tsx-sedan/tsx-trim/5-speed-automatic-engine/body-air-conditioning-cat/engine-mounts-at-scat/?part_number=50870seae01
Good job bro
Thanks brother!
What is the name of that ratchet and where you got it
Its a 3/8 drive ratchet with flex head and extension. It is made by Stanley. Here's the link on amazon, but it comes in a kit with sockets amzn.to/2CWBbgk. Since I didn't need the sockets I bought the ratchet by itself at Walmart. www.walmart.com/ip/STANLEY-STMT72418-Extendable-Ratchet/36132572.
Did you reuse the bolts? Any issues?
Yes, I reused all the bolts. No, I didn't have any issues. I used OEM mounts for the three transmission mounts and the three engine mounts and it drove like new. I live in southern California, we don't have rusted bolt issues like people in the colder states.
Hey, I found a motor mount on eBay for $35, u think it’s worth it. ?
It's ok to use aftermarket mounts if you don't have the money for OEM mounts. Just realize they may not last long and may not absorb vibrations like the OEM. If you're going to use aftermarket parts, I recommend to look at the selection from partsgeek.com I've ordered parts from them, it's a solid website for car parts.
Where can I get that Tsx service manual?
I bought my manual on eBay many years ago and it cost me about $80, but it was well worth it. You can find the 2009 (2nd generation) manual online for free. There are a lot of similarities in both manuals. www.ifixit.com/Document/BvkwBN3DDQPac21J/Manuel_Shop_Acura_TSX_2009.pdf
Where can I buy that ratchet?
That wrench was likely discontinued and now its hard to find. There are other flex head wrenches on amazon that have teeth where it locks in at different degrees in the flex, but I don't have experience with those. Then only place I found that Stanley wrench is on this website: www.govets.com/stanley-076174926453-310-65469314.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAjc2QBhDgARIsAMc3SqR1wPDlbtATezAEhO2_IgGAQsRY5aTkNLkY8EQiz4-usY_uRIjoZxkaAmRHEALw_wcB
Here is the closest wrench that I could find at a reasonable price. amzn.to/3v3kbDv
Can’t you get to that bolt easier from the bottom of the car. At 2:53
I don't remember but I think I tried and it was easier from the top.
You do realize that adding extensions changes torque specs.
John I was anticipating a change in the torquing power from the addition of the extension. I figured maybe it would have less torquing power with the addition of the extension. So I did a test on a suspension bolt with similar torque specs and found no difference adding the extension. Did you think adding the extension would increase or decrease the torquing power?
Lol extensions do not change torque! He did it properly!
Na, you talking about tension and compression on the extension. Under constant pressure, torque wrench will still click when the wrench reaches setting. The WD-40 and used fasteners will effect specs though.
TO FIX A STRIPPED NUT, USE A ARE YOU READY FOR THIS? RUBBERBAND... YAY!! IT WORKS EVERYTIME, CUT THE BAND IN HALF LAY IT ACROSS THE NUT AND ITS OFF,
Bro you don’t believe in washing your car?
Haha! I've had the car for like 10 years now and in the first five years I washed it once a week and waxed it myself. Now I wash it like once a month simply because it ranks low in priority compared to all the other things I do. When I was single, no kids, and no mortgage was when I took best care of my cars. Now with kids, mortgage, house chores, professional career...yeah its not high priority. I also notice I take better care of things when I first own it and over time I start to let things go a bit.
Wurd!
You know it! 😎