The XPS supply site doesn't explain it - what is the big difference between 25 and 60 PSI foam? Would the 25PSI for example hold detail drawn with mechanical pencil (e.g bricks) similar to how the German green foam does?
The faq explains the difference. Higher psi = holds crisper details. The 60 psi is similar to German Styrodur, 25 psi is not as good as Styrodur but still better than Foamular.
For Jeremy's Winnipeg based viewers, the maker space at the Millennium library now has a hot wire cutter you can use (discovered when picking up a 3d test print from there)
I'm no longer an active gamer, but scatter terrain is a great way to display completed minis on a shelf without committing valuable hobby room real estate to a full scale diorama. And, it's easy to take with you to display at shows and exhibits, too. Great video, Jeremy. Inspirational, as always!
About modeling compound, if you have none accessible where you are, you can just make it yourself, it's essentially a mix of paper pulp with plaster. Since you mention the Geek Gaming Scenics one, Luke himself has a tutorial on how to make it (as usual, i love that he has never taken down the tutorials he has on making stuff like what he sells), and the "Terrain Made Easy" channel has a video on simplifying that already simple recipe, and another comparing that with Luke's compound and Sculptamold.
I simplified it even more, just throw TP into a blender, no need to do all the wetting and drying and shit, its probably not AS good but i bet its better then 99% of the way there... Work out how much your blender can do (mine does 4 squares at a time in about 10 seconds) and then just chunk in a big amount of plaster, i did about 4 rolls of TP with 5 pounds of plaster, its a full 5L ikea samla container in like 20 minutes for like 5 bucks in material costs
@@JWbrasser Very similar to what the dude did in the video i mentioned, but with no tools and therefore much smaller quantities, rip toilet paper a bit apart with your hands, mix the plaster with water, then mix the paper with the wet plaster. Done. It's like you say not as good as store brand stuff with the whole process, but for small quick stuff "on the go"? It works good enough. Of course the dude explains it *FAR* better than me and actually demonstrates it, then on the other video he actually compares that with the two store-bought compounds. Your way with the blender should be nicer even :)
Awesome video! Here are my tips to add to the pile: CDs can be a great base for large round based scenery bits. I know a lot of people still have some kicking around since they used to be all that, but aren’t very essential anymore. Washers can be great up to around 2”. just throw some scotch tape over the hole in both cases. Bark chunks are basically ready made natural terrain greeble and completely free. The fastest way to get good dirty looking terrain with no effort or special tools, is to basecoat it a dark chocolate brown (dryad bark if you do citadel) and then drybrush over that. Pretty much no matter what your painting, stone, dirt, bones, wood, anything that’s been laying on the ground. It all sharing the same basecoan ties them together. Easiest 0 skill way to do rusty gross metal is a dark red basecoat and then a metal drybrush.
I just subscribed to Loot! I never subscribed to anything like it before. Got my 4k resin printer and an 8k on the way! I'm super stoked and thanks to my wife for supporting my hobby as a gift for all we've accomplished together.
Love this video! Shows where the "Magic" comes from in Black Magic Craft. Crafting doesn't have to be complex, it can be this simple, and this fun, and you wind up having great products when you're done. Great video!
I dont spend more time watching this channel because I must have a life - your work is a dream, it's fantastic. I hope to get to download everything one day and build a library of magical crafting to enjoy once I retire(I hope I do one day).
I'm totaly converted to bases since a while. The round wood bases, but old CDs are great too for biggers scatters terrains. I've made some forest zone with large "organic" bases made of 2 layers of 3mm epvc. the top layer has 6cm round holes. I have a bunch of trees on 6cm round bases that I can put in.
I wish I had room for a 3D printer, but alas my apartment is too small. However, I'm constantly looking for anything I can use as bits or even straight up terrain (with a little modification) at my local dollar stores and thrift shops. I've been pillaging the thrift stores in my area for anything I can use to make some starships for Stargrave. With cost becoming a sticking point for my hobby right now this has been way cheaper then buying spaceship models from a manufacturer or a 3rd party printer on Etsy. And I finally purchased a foam cutter. A handheld one, but I'm still looking forward to using it in my ruin builds I plan on working on really soon.
A better approach anyway. 3D printing is a great hobby tool, but so many crafting videos boil down to "and then I printed the really cool parts of this build". Some of the best builds I've seen on this channel were just with stuff from Dollarama.
Steel can lids can also make good bases, as long as you cut them with a safety can opener. I found some cans that have 2”, 3” and 4” diameters. The best part is that they’re free when you eat the food in the can!
Thank you for your videos. They have always been a huge inspiration over the years, and have gotten me into the miniatures hobby. I'm sure you hear this kind of thing a lot. Keep up the good work.
Your videos are so good. No info bloat, just helpful. I'm slowly learning rules, writing down plot lines, building NPC's etc. for DND 5E, I really want to have some decent scatter terrain to help pull my will-be players into it, make it a little easier for them to be immersed. I bought a foam cutter, paint, exacto knife, etc because of you. Unrelated: What are your backing tracks? Specifically the first one, Couldn't hear super well but they all sounded pretty sick.
Loved the way you just free-formed and let the random way the foam broke down guide the journey to the finished shape. I'm thinking take it a step further and take a chunk (or three) out of the starting circular base so you get the best of both worlds. [1] - leave enough of the circle in place so it still fulfils the brief of representing a standard area/size on the player board... and... [2] - The randomly removed/cut away 'chunks' of the circular base help push the piece in a direction you hadn't contemplated and [3] (bonus) gives the whole piece a more organic (less engineered) look.
I've been working on making a TTRPG battle system based on off-grid scatter terrain, designed to be made on junk, and this is EXACTLY what I need for it
That scatter set is awesome 👍, especially love the gribbly bits gives me an otherworldly, (upside down), slither, war of the worlds vibe. The fleshy symbiotic melding with the natural rock
Any chance you would do a video on symbiotic fleshy terrain almost drawing inspiration from them themes or the likes of the alien franchise or such where the structures and natural world is being assimilated into the xenos gribbleness? Much appreciated 🤟
A while ago you made a vid on the most effective projects to start with. Recommending dungeon tiles, dungeon stackers, pillars, modular ruin walls, doors and trees. What would your next 5-10 set of versatile builds be? Some kind of modular buildings maybe?
Great video Jeremy. One other thing with the circular bases in that case, since you were talking about spells bring stuff up through the surface of the ground, would be the spells immediate range. I'm probably wrong, but that popped into my mind LOL.
Actually there is a distinction. The rule probably describes the maximum range to either the edge of the new terrain piece, or to its center. Center measurement would be slightly more definite, but fiddly to make sure the terrain piece center actually lands on the chosen target center. Or if the range is to the edge, any placement that the player chose would be "legal" regardless of where on the circle of the terrain edge he chose to align with the target spot. BUT if you had square terrain pieces, the player could choose from aligning the piece to his target spot on the edge of the piece, or a corner. With a diagonal alignment, the "reach" of the terrain is slightly farther than if the player aligned his target with the middle of a side of the square. To make the problem clearer, imagine that the terrain piece is a rectangle 1" x 12", so the player could affect someone very far from the end of his spell range. It's a small distinction but that's what I was thinking when I read Dig's comment.
I know it may not be your thing but with all of your gorgeous terrain we've got to get a battle report out of you someday. I don't even care what you play I just want that in my life.
A suggestion if you use casting resin, create some silicone molds to pour your excess resin in to make greeblies. If you end up with one incomplete that is fine, they can be damaged items, which are good to have, broken skulls or bones are too.
I dig the loosey goosey approach of the new builds... but also miss some of the more meticulous/architectual crafting of some older builds, foam house build, shipwreck cottage... haha
Check out RP Archive for those sorts of builds. Everything he does is absurdly modular and standardized with magnets, accessories, and meticulous detailing.
@@ninjapancake9 i love rp archive! I watch all these nerds haha.. gonna make my own channel too this summer, keep your eyes peeled! teh game about to be changed
I'm new to tabletop crafting and couldn't find foam thick enough for the dungeon tiles so was planning on sticking 2 sheets of foam board on top of each other. Does anyone know how to hide the seam betwwen the two? Thanks
Some putty filler should be perfect for that. After you join your sides together and are done working on it, apply some putty (like Bondo or something) on it and then sand it down smooth.
You could cut in vertical lines to make it look like it's made of stone, a la the mage's tower on this channel. Then the seam doesn't need to be hidden, because it's the line between two courses of stone.
Integrate the seam into your design, make the seams vertical, also do a rough cut, join together, then do a final size cut the seam will disappear without even trying. It all depends on your design and whatever you do save your cut offs, you will find them very useful as rubble for the smallest pieces, and as detail & filler pieces.
I love all the ideas I get from you and your videos .my daughter is dm a group and she wanted a lava set .so I watched yous and then I come up with floating islands . What do you think. Thank you for all you do 😊
KISS Keep It Simple, Sweetheart. I use it al the time with my students. My colleague thought stupid was to harsh so she came up with the sweetheart. (Now I always sound like a granny, but I gets the job done)
Always love your stuff, and thank you so much for sharing. It’s really been an inspiration. Quick question. You mentioned mixing black paint with sculptamold…oil or acrylic?
Speaking of bits, one of the bits I wish I had more of and I find myself needing a lot are just simple pieces of weapon and armor. Like Shields of different sizes and shapes or different kinds of weapons. I really want to kit bash these miniatures that I print and swap the weapons out. I've got a player who's got a dual wield dragonborn who has big axes but I can't find the miniature that has a good pose and the right weapons so I want to find one with a great pose, which I have, and cut off the swords and replace them with axes. We need more bits from the miniature companies.
I have seen lots of people mention pigment powder, but never any mention of how they seal the pigment powder in. Do you use the IPA followed by scenic glue technique that seems to work for sealing in flocking?
Sorry to bother you. First i just wanna say, i really live your channel. Ive learned a lot. Any way.. i just wanted to ask you about the smaller black mask you wear some times. If you wouldn’t mind letting me know what kind it is that i might get myself one. Thanks in advance. And i will definitely use your amazon link to purchase God Bless
I've kinda given up on LOOT. Their 32 scale models are super delicate with ridiculously intricate/fragile parts. It's pretty obvious that they're created at 75 scale, supported at that scale, then scaled down without much thought given to whether or not a particular model actually works at that reduced size. This is mostly just a problem for humanoid figures, but I've wasted too many attempts with less-than-paperclip-thin pieces breaking off with supports that are way oversized for the 32 scale mini.
I've been wanting to make a few pieces of scatter terrain using random bits. My issue is I can't find a good supply of just random D&D/fantasy style bits in bulk for a reasonable price. I tried to ask people in my local gaming community if from people who play like like Warhammer fantasy/AoS but their either want to horde their bits or sell them for unreasonable prices.
You can buy lego swords in bulk from bricklink or other fan sites for dirt cheap, that's how i get a lot of fun little pieces for detailing scratcbuilt models and terrain.
@@Emithetaxi online was the first places I looked. They are either selling too high for so little or the items they're selling are too plain. Like you know how a Lego pirate swords look. Very plain an no details. Why would I want to buy something like that in bulk when I want variety and unique looks.
Your terrain bits can be lower-detail than miniatures. But I understand not wanting to use legos for various reasons. I think what the grognard would say is you end up buying so many kits that have sprues and leftover greeblies that you're gonna naturally have a huge bits box. I don't think that's legitimate unless you're spending all your dough on the hobby. 3D printing bits sounds great, but only if you have a 3d printer! TheHerrDark above suggested, if you pour resin, since you always have extra left over and it gets wasted anyway, pour it into silicone molds of greeblies. This only works for you if you play with poured resin. And of course you play with silicone mold-making, where you can make molds of whatever you like and use them for dozens of castings before they degrade. You can spot and save greeblies from what you might otherwise throw away. Save anything that's a circle: drink bottle lids and rings, sometimes even drink bottles themselves because you can cut off the bottom, nice shapes from product packaging, office supplies, the spools that stuff comes on. Really just take a look at anything you would throw away and if it can be used in crafting, clean it and keep it. Hit the thrift store. Look at everything with an eye for whether you can tear it apart and use the bits; you're not going to find a huge sack of greeblies, so you'll need to get inventive. If you are crafting on an extreme budget, I would personally use styrofoam castoffs from things like electronics packaging instead of the nice XPS foam you buy, cardboard and cereal box cardstock, sawdust, sand, small stones, fresh landscaping bark. These should all be free. You'll have to pay for bulk white school glue, a small container of non-clumping cat litter, cans of hardware store paint (people often want to get rid of half-used paint cans), and either joint compound or dry plaster. Your tools are a box cutter, scissors, a set of paintbrushes from the dollar store, a ruler, an exhausted ballpoint pen, some sandpaper or a sanding block, and some small jars to mix paint and clean brushes in. You'd be surprised what you can get away with using your time and effort instead of money. When makers spend more money on tools or materials, it makes their job way easier and the end product looks better. But it can be done on a shoestring.
Sir, I see that your kick starter is launching in September. Is that when backing will start or V1 of the game? Got a bro week vacation end of October where we'll be board gaming and straight up nerding out. This would be epic!
I personally throw a clear dull coat over everything, which better attaches everything. Powder is fine, but if you're relying on the clear coat to secure structural or decorative elements, you're going to have stuff fall off. So it's really more just to prevent things from affecting the paint job.
I know. It’s an issue with tarriffs unfortunately. Hopefully it takes off enough to justify jumping through the hoops and costs needed to ship to here.
Might want to tone down those flashing lights at the start. Seems like a hazard for those with photosensitive epilepsy (which is about 0.025% of all people, but still)
You are not laying... One of my favorite things to print is bits... Not going to lie I hope at least one mini fails so it is a surprise bit.. lol 🤣😆🤣 I also print just random bits...
Get the LOOT STUDIOS models: bit.ly/3NRNAqP
BMC XPS FOAM SUPPLY: bmc.xps.supply/
CHECK OUT IDOLS of TORMENT: www.idolsoftorment.com
Awesome 🤘
The XPS supply site doesn't explain it - what is the big difference between 25 and 60 PSI foam? Would the 25PSI for example hold detail drawn with mechanical pencil (e.g bricks) similar to how the German green foam does?
The faq explains the difference. Higher psi = holds crisper details. The 60 psi is similar to German Styrodur, 25 psi is not as good as Styrodur but still better than Foamular.
An annual "BMC terrain tips" seems like something the channel really needs - these occasional "summarize the assorted tips from videos" are awesome
For Jeremy's Winnipeg based viewers, the maker space at the Millennium library now has a hot wire cutter you can use (discovered when picking up a 3d test print from there)
Very cool!
Thanks!
This guy! Canadian hero...
I'm no longer an active gamer, but scatter terrain is a great way to display completed minis on a shelf without committing valuable hobby room real estate to a full scale diorama. And, it's easy to take with you to display at shows and exhibits, too. Great video, Jeremy. Inspirational, as always!
About modeling compound, if you have none accessible where you are, you can just make it yourself, it's essentially a mix of paper pulp with plaster. Since you mention the Geek Gaming Scenics one, Luke himself has a tutorial on how to make it (as usual, i love that he has never taken down the tutorials he has on making stuff like what he sells), and the "Terrain Made Easy" channel has a video on simplifying that already simple recipe, and another comparing that with Luke's compound and Sculptamold.
I simplified it even more, just throw TP into a blender, no need to do all the wetting and drying and shit, its probably not AS good but i bet its better then 99% of the way there... Work out how much your blender can do (mine does 4 squares at a time in about 10 seconds) and then just chunk in a big amount of plaster, i did about 4 rolls of TP with 5 pounds of plaster, its a full 5L ikea samla container in like 20 minutes for like 5 bucks in material costs
@@JWbrasser Very similar to what the dude did in the video i mentioned, but with no tools and therefore much smaller quantities, rip toilet paper a bit apart with your hands, mix the plaster with water, then mix the paper with the wet plaster. Done. It's like you say not as good as store brand stuff with the whole process, but for small quick stuff "on the go"? It works good enough.
Of course the dude explains it *FAR* better than me and actually demonstrates it, then on the other video he actually compares that with the two store-bought compounds.
Your way with the blender should be nicer even :)
Salt and hot water make it cure faster. Maybe a bit too fast with large batches actually.
Awesome video!
Here are my tips to add to the pile:
CDs can be a great base for large round based scenery bits. I know a lot of people still have some kicking around since they used to be all that, but aren’t very essential anymore. Washers can be great up to around 2”. just throw some scotch tape over the hole in both cases.
Bark chunks are basically ready made natural terrain greeble and completely free.
The fastest way to get good dirty looking terrain with no effort or special tools, is to basecoat it a dark chocolate brown (dryad bark if you do citadel) and then drybrush over that. Pretty much no matter what your painting, stone, dirt, bones, wood, anything that’s been laying on the ground. It all sharing the same basecoan ties them together.
Easiest 0 skill way to do rusty gross metal is a dark red basecoat and then a metal drybrush.
The texture on those scatter terrain peices is bananas! They look great.
I just subscribed to Loot! I never subscribed to anything like it before. Got my 4k resin printer and an 8k on the way! I'm super stoked and thanks to my wife for supporting my hobby as a gift for all we've accomplished together.
Man, this video really got me excited about building some terrain again. Thanks!
Another Awesome Build Jeremy!
That's less, "scatter terrain" and more like, "SPLATTER TERRAIN!"
Very cool work, as usual, on this wonderful channel.
That's the best dad comment ever. Imma have to keep and use that.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial 😆
Jeremy, BMG, bro... Everytime I see you post a video, it's a relief... I love your content man! Thanks for all the hard work you put in!
Love this video! Shows where the "Magic" comes from in Black Magic Craft. Crafting doesn't have to be complex, it can be this simple, and this fun, and you wind up having great products when you're done. Great video!
I dont spend more time watching this channel because I must have a life - your work is a dream, it's fantastic. I hope to get to download everything one day and build a library of magical crafting to enjoy once I retire(I hope I do one day).
God, I'm so stoked for Idols Of Torment!
Me too!
I'm totaly converted to bases since a while. The round wood bases, but old CDs are great too for biggers scatters terrains.
I've made some forest zone with large "organic" bases made of 2 layers of 3mm epvc. the top layer has 6cm round holes. I have a bunch of trees on 6cm round bases that I can put in.
I wish I had room for a 3D printer, but alas my apartment is too small. However, I'm constantly looking for anything I can use as bits or even straight up terrain (with a little modification) at my local dollar stores and thrift shops. I've been pillaging the thrift stores in my area for anything I can use to make some starships for Stargrave. With cost becoming a sticking point for my hobby right now this has been way cheaper then buying spaceship models from a manufacturer or a 3rd party printer on Etsy.
And I finally purchased a foam cutter. A handheld one, but I'm still looking forward to using it in my ruin builds I plan on working on really soon.
My local library has a 3d printer, maybe check and see if you have one near you that does.
A better approach anyway. 3D printing is a great hobby tool, but so many crafting videos boil down to "and then I printed the really cool parts of this build". Some of the best builds I've seen on this channel were just with stuff from Dollarama.
It has been a trip watching you progress as a crafter over the years. I remember the never going to use miniatures days lol.
Steel can lids can also make good bases, as long as you cut them with a safety can opener. I found some cans that have 2”, 3” and 4” diameters. The best part is that they’re free when you eat the food in the can!
How about pickle jar lids? Also metal, no sharp edges. I am just not sure of the measurements.
@@MonkeyJedi99 the edges are kind of thick, aren't they?
Thank you for your videos. They have always been a huge inspiration over the years, and have gotten me into the miniatures hobby. I'm sure you hear this kind of thing a lot. Keep up the good work.
Your videos are so good. No info bloat, just helpful. I'm slowly learning rules, writing down plot lines, building NPC's etc. for DND 5E, I really want to have some decent scatter terrain to help pull my will-be players into it, make it a little easier for them to be immersed. I bought a foam cutter, paint, exacto knife, etc because of you.
Unrelated: What are your backing tracks? Specifically the first one, Couldn't hear super well but they all sounded pretty sick.
I haven't built anything for a few years now, looking at your Master Level work is inspiring!
It's amazing! Love you man!
Loved the way you just free-formed and let the random way the foam broke down guide the journey to the finished shape. I'm thinking take it a step further and take a chunk (or three) out of the starting circular base so you get the best of both worlds. [1] - leave enough of the circle in place so it still fulfils the brief of representing a standard area/size on the player board... and... [2] - The randomly removed/cut away 'chunks' of the circular base help push the piece in a direction you hadn't contemplated and [3] (bonus) gives the whole piece a more organic (less engineered) look.
This is a great video summary, thanks
I've been working on making a TTRPG battle system based on off-grid scatter terrain, designed to be made on junk, and this is EXACTLY what I need for it
Great content as always. Thank you
Love the way you use the larger prints.
You convinced me. I'm finally going to pick up some Sculptamold.
BEAUTIFUL work Buddy!!!!!! Can't wait to see your world become others REALITY!!!!!!!
Me too! Love to see you put together a board ☺️
Great looking terrain, I really like working with drywall compound. Good stuff.
This is a great video! I am going to test out my new foam this weekend.
Idols my be my first and only Kickstarter I'll support.
Dude those Demons for this Loot drop are fu*king brill.
Haha sculptamold is the one crafting supply I haven't explored yet but you know what Jeremy, maybe I'll finally give it a shot.
Dooooooo it
That intro was fire! Love to see the production quality of your videos keep going up.
That scatter set is awesome 👍, especially love the gribbly bits gives me an otherworldly, (upside down), slither, war of the worlds vibe. The fleshy symbiotic melding with the natural rock
Any chance you would do a video on symbiotic fleshy terrain almost drawing inspiration from them themes or the likes of the alien franchise or such where the structures and natural world is being assimilated into the xenos gribbleness?
Much appreciated 🤟
I did……this
ua-cam.com/video/nnrF8h30AlU/v-deo.html
More of this please!!
Multi-functional stuff is awesome.
This is friggin awesome
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
A while ago you made a vid on the most effective projects to start with. Recommending dungeon tiles, dungeon stackers, pillars, modular ruin walls, doors and trees. What would your next 5-10 set of versatile builds be? Some kind of modular buildings maybe?
How dare you call me stupid. Only I can call myself stupid 😂 Great stuff as always!
Great video Jeremy. One other thing with the circular bases in that case, since you were talking about spells bring stuff up through the surface of the ground, would be the spells immediate range. I'm probably wrong, but that popped into my mind LOL.
?
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Nevermind, I'm over thinking things as per usual LMAO
Actually there is a distinction. The rule probably describes the maximum range to either the edge of the new terrain piece, or to its center. Center measurement would be slightly more definite, but fiddly to make sure the terrain piece center actually lands on the chosen target center. Or if the range is to the edge, any placement that the player chose would be "legal" regardless of where on the circle of the terrain edge he chose to align with the target spot.
BUT if you had square terrain pieces, the player could choose from aligning the piece to his target spot on the edge of the piece, or a corner. With a diagonal alignment, the "reach" of the terrain is slightly farther than if the player aligned his target with the middle of a side of the square.
To make the problem clearer, imagine that the terrain piece is a rectangle 1" x 12", so the player could affect someone very far from the end of his spell range.
It's a small distinction but that's what I was thinking when I read Dig's comment.
I know it may not be your thing but with all of your gorgeous terrain we've got to get a battle report out of you someday. I don't even care what you play I just want that in my life.
The next time I am able to secure an income, I will definitely be acquiring some of that foam and sculptamold.
A suggestion if you use casting resin, create some silicone molds to pour your excess resin in to make greeblies. If you end up with one incomplete that is fine, they can be damaged items, which are good to have, broken skulls or bones are too.
This is a wonderful idea! Eliminates waste anxiety.
You nailed it. This is ace
Your scatter terrain always looks amazing! And this one in particular
It'd be fun to just go look at the little worlds and endless pieces on those shelves... I think one could get lost haha
I dig the loosey goosey approach of the new builds... but also miss some of the more meticulous/architectual crafting of some older builds, foam house build, shipwreck cottage... haha
Check out RP Archive for those sorts of builds. Everything he does is absurdly modular and standardized with magnets, accessories, and meticulous detailing.
@@ninjapancake9 i love rp archive! I watch all these nerds haha.. gonna make my own channel too this summer, keep your eyes peeled! teh game about to be changed
Pigments for colouring concrete can be a good cheap source of pigments, just buy the sample sizes.
Very cool , very helpful , thank you.
I'm new to tabletop crafting and couldn't find foam thick enough for the dungeon tiles so was planning on sticking 2 sheets of foam board on top of each other. Does anyone know how to hide the seam betwwen the two? Thanks
Some putty filler should be perfect for that. After you join your sides together and are done working on it, apply some putty (like Bondo or something) on it and then sand it down smooth.
If it stone pattern bring the pattern over the edges and use a foil ball it will help hide the seams
You could cut in vertical lines to make it look like it's made of stone, a la the mage's tower on this channel. Then the seam doesn't need to be hidden, because it's the line between two courses of stone.
Integrate the seam into your design, make the seams vertical, also do a rough cut, join together, then do a final size cut the seam will disappear without even trying.
It all depends on your design and whatever you do save your cut offs, you will find them very useful as rubble for the smallest pieces, and as detail & filler pieces.
you could also just use a 1cm strip of paper or thin cardboard or even strips of foamcore .
Those hands sticking out of the ground are sick! I really need to add airbrushing inks to my work flow looks really good!
I love all the ideas I get from you and your videos .my daughter is dm a group and she wanted a lava set .so I watched yous and then I come up with floating islands . What do you think. Thank you for all you do 😊
Awesome video
Great video! I gotta get me some of that sculptamold. It's been in my Amazon cart for months haha
CD's make a good base for scatter terrain.
KISS Keep It Simple, Sweetheart.
I use it al the time with my students. My colleague thought stupid was to harsh so she came up with the sweetheart. (Now I always sound like a granny, but I gets the job done)
Always love your stuff, and thank you so much for sharing. It’s really been an inspiration. Quick question. You mentioned mixing black paint with sculptamold…oil or acrylic?
Acrylic!!!! You add water!
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial perfect and thanks. Dealt with resins before where the type of pigment can be VERY important.
Speaking of bits, one of the bits I wish I had more of and I find myself needing a lot are just simple pieces of weapon and armor. Like Shields of different sizes and shapes or different kinds of weapons. I really want to kit bash these miniatures that I print and swap the weapons out. I've got a player who's got a dual wield dragonborn who has big axes but I can't find the miniature that has a good pose and the right weapons so I want to find one with a great pose, which I have, and cut off the swords and replace them with axes. We need more bits from the miniature companies.
I have seen lots of people mention pigment powder, but never any mention of how they seal the pigment powder in. Do you use the IPA followed by scenic glue technique that seems to work for sealing in flocking?
Watch my video about making/using pigment powder. Personally applying the powder is my final step.
🫥🫥🫥🫡🫡🫡🫨💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀 0:50
@Black Magic Craft, I'm building a pirate fortress for my DnD campaign, it's huge, and I think I might be in over my head. Any suggestions?
yes, but who made your killer yellow shawl?
Sorry to bother you.
First i just wanna say, i really live your channel. Ive learned a lot.
Any way.. i just wanted to ask you about the smaller black mask you wear some times. If you wouldn’t mind letting me know what kind it is that i might get myself one. Thanks in advance. And i will definitely use your amazon link to purchase
God Bless
what do you do with all the foam off cuts do you have a way to use them for other projects
looks awesome! Does anyone know where to find the model seen at 9.16?
It’s an older Loot model. Might be able to get it on myminifactofy.
It would be sweet to see some deadlands terrain. Just throwing it out there. No body on UA-cam really makes good western or weird west terrain.
Boylei Hobby Time is currently doing some weird west / SF stuff. While it's not Cowboy Necromunda, he's got some good stuff.
love it
I really need to stop watching these videos while I work, because now all I can think about is making scatter terrain after work.
Sculptamold is available from a local art supply store? Is that artist emporium?
Yes!
I've kinda given up on LOOT. Their 32 scale models are super delicate with ridiculously intricate/fragile parts. It's pretty obvious that they're created at 75 scale, supported at that scale, then scaled down without much thought given to whether or not a particular model actually works at that reduced size. This is mostly just a problem for humanoid figures, but I've wasted too many attempts with less-than-paperclip-thin pieces breaking off with supports that are way oversized for the 32 scale mini.
Hey dude, new to the channel but I've already watched so many of your videos. Is it just me or does XPS supply not ship to Canada?
Only continental USA unfortunately
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial ok thanks for the reply. Here's hoping that changes or we can get an equivalent on this side.
I've been wanting to make a few pieces of scatter terrain using random bits. My issue is I can't find a good supply of just random D&D/fantasy style bits in bulk for a reasonable price. I tried to ask people in my local gaming community if from people who play like like Warhammer fantasy/AoS but their either want to horde their bits or sell them for unreasonable prices.
You can buy lego swords in bulk from bricklink or other fan sites for dirt cheap, that's how i get a lot of fun little pieces for detailing scratcbuilt models and terrain.
@@Emithetaxi online was the first places I looked. They are either selling too high for so little or the items they're selling are too plain.
Like you know how a Lego pirate swords look. Very plain an no details. Why would I want to buy something like that in bulk when I want variety and unique looks.
Your terrain bits can be lower-detail than miniatures. But I understand not wanting to use legos for various reasons.
I think what the grognard would say is you end up buying so many kits that have sprues and leftover greeblies that you're gonna naturally have a huge bits box. I don't think that's legitimate unless you're spending all your dough on the hobby.
3D printing bits sounds great, but only if you have a 3d printer!
TheHerrDark above suggested, if you pour resin, since you always have extra left over and it gets wasted anyway, pour it into silicone molds of greeblies. This only works for you if you play with poured resin. And of course you play with silicone mold-making, where you can make molds of whatever you like and use them for dozens of castings before they degrade.
You can spot and save greeblies from what you might otherwise throw away. Save anything that's a circle: drink bottle lids and rings, sometimes even drink bottles themselves because you can cut off the bottom, nice shapes from product packaging, office supplies, the spools that stuff comes on. Really just take a look at anything you would throw away and if it can be used in crafting, clean it and keep it.
Hit the thrift store. Look at everything with an eye for whether you can tear it apart and use the bits; you're not going to find a huge sack of greeblies, so you'll need to get inventive.
If you are crafting on an extreme budget, I would personally use styrofoam castoffs from things like electronics packaging instead of the nice XPS foam you buy, cardboard and cereal box cardstock, sawdust, sand, small stones, fresh landscaping bark. These should all be free. You'll have to pay for bulk white school glue, a small container of non-clumping cat litter, cans of hardware store paint (people often want to get rid of half-used paint cans), and either joint compound or dry plaster. Your tools are a box cutter, scissors, a set of paintbrushes from the dollar store, a ruler, an exhausted ballpoint pen, some sandpaper or a sanding block, and some small jars to mix paint and clean brushes in.
You'd be surprised what you can get away with using your time and effort instead of money. When makers spend more money on tools or materials, it makes their job way easier and the end product looks better. But it can be done on a shoestring.
Sir, I see that your kick starter is launching in September. Is that when backing will start or V1 of the game? Got a bro week vacation end of October where we'll be board gaming and straight up nerding out. This would be epic!
That’s when the backing campaign will be. Rules in pdf will be delivered a few months after, and a few more for physical book.
hey i was just wondering do you use anything to fix the pigment powders onto the terrain so they don't come off?
Nope
I personally throw a clear dull coat over everything, which better attaches everything. Powder is fine, but if you're relying on the clear coat to secure structural or decorative elements, you're going to have stuff fall off. So it's really more just to prevent things from affecting the paint job.
Well thanks Jeremy now I have to print more demons.
Loot studio looks so cool, too bad I have a PLA printer lmao
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid, is most definitely a thing!
Greeblies!
Nice
Dude. You need to get some streak and grime. Seriously. You have no idea how much that will and to your grim dark theme.
link to bases amazon bases?
There are quite a few options, all the same. Pick the best price for you amzn.to/3bWHyqQ
Your affiliate partner for that high density foam doesnt ship to Canada... :(
I know. It’s an issue with tarriffs unfortunately. Hopefully it takes off enough to justify jumping through the hoops and costs needed to ship to here.
I would like to send pictures not sure how
Might want to tone down those flashing lights at the start.
Seems like a hazard for those with photosensitive epilepsy (which is about 0.025% of all people, but still)
You are not laying... One of my favorite things to print is bits... Not going to lie I hope at least one mini fails so it is a surprise bit.. lol 🤣😆🤣 I also print just random bits...
Hey dude what mask was that?
Just a random dust mask off amazon
why is Sculptamold so expensive? *LOL.
Keep it simple, silly! The other way smacks of military, UBIQUE!
no no no no no bases okay maybe ill do bases clear bases