I used to call slopers slappers. It just made sense, like holds were onomatopeas. Crrrrimp is the sound of your nail ripping off, after all. On a more serious note, these educative videos are simple and enjoyable. Props to whomever edits these too. Cheers!
Another useful way to grab 2-finger pockets is to put in your index and ring finger and to stack the middle finger on top of them. This way you can turn a lot of 2 finger pockets into 3 finger pockets which makes it so much more comfortable and less risky:)
That really depends on the length of your index/middle/ring relative to each other. For example, my index is almost a full pad shorter than my middle, but my ring is only 1/4 pad shorter. Stacking three in that manner isn't as secure as a ring/middle 2-finger pocket.
Hi Maddie, big fan of your videos. I was a little taken aback when you said you try to full crimp "at every possible opportunity". I've always half crimped everything, and full crimp feels unnatural. Would you say it's worth training full crimp for someone like me? As you go up in grades, are there more situations in which a half crimp simply won't suffice? Thanks.
I don't really agree with the advice of full crimping at every possible opportunity, if you don't have to, then don't. I don't know how hard you climb but I recommend practicing crimps rather than training crimps, just crimp on a bunch of holds and get the experience so that you can decide which grip to use when crimping, or if crimping is necessary. If you get to the point where you want to train crimps, train in what is most comfortable, they all use the same muscles. For the last part of your question, yeah probably. For reference I climb 7C/7C+(v9/v10) on the 2016 Moonboard and I find myself using every crimp type. Basically just use it when you think it's needed and be aware of when, why and how often you are using it, train/condition/rest accordingly
@eurekaflows thanks 😊 Yeah sorry I didn’t mean to suggest that you should try to full crimp all the time, it’s just personal preference for me! Some people prefer/feel stronger in other grip types, and sometimes even feel stronger in a 3 finger drag than a full crimp! So definitely try to use whatever grip feels strongest/most comfortable for you, because everyone’s body is built different! I definitely wouldn’t recommend training full crimp and it’s something that will develop naturally if you body feels like it wants to do it :)
loved the crimp-pov, nice insight on what it feels like to have strong arms :) also: why does everyone say dualtex when they actually mean the notex portion of dualtex holds? :P
Haha I think we usually refer to the whole hold when we say dualtex because often the location of the no-tex influences how you approach and use the whole hold!
ooooh boy when I heard you say “high-risk” and realised what that meant i physically cringed…That shit makes me paranoid as fuckkkk. I mean open-hand grips feels fucking gross too but my fingers feel terrible after a crimp as well. Idk I genuinely don’t know how you’re supposed to open-hand with your pinky?? Like it’s not even long enough. I never even knew a crimp had to have 90° angle on the fingers, cus mine do and I thought they were just messed up.
I used to call slopers slappers.
It just made sense, like holds were onomatopeas.
Crrrrimp is the sound of your nail ripping off, after all.
On a more serious note, these educative videos are simple and enjoyable.
Props to whomever edits these too.
Cheers!
Thank you! Haha I (maddie) edit my vids and zach does his :)
Aweeeesome! Thank you for the video on holds - exactly what I needed
Glad it helped!
Another useful way to grab 2-finger pockets is to put in your index and ring finger and to stack the middle finger on top of them. This way you can turn a lot of 2 finger pockets into 3 finger pockets which makes it so much more comfortable and less risky:)
That really depends on the length of your index/middle/ring relative to each other. For example, my index is almost a full pad shorter than my middle, but my ring is only 1/4 pad shorter. Stacking three in that manner isn't as secure as a ring/middle 2-finger pocket.
Yep! Good point, there are a lot of ways you can tackle pockets!
Great informative video! Thanks!
can you elaborate 'dragging' fingers? is open handed dragging?
Exactly!
Hi Maddie, big fan of your videos. I was a little taken aback when you said you try to full crimp "at every possible opportunity". I've always half crimped everything, and full crimp feels unnatural. Would you say it's worth training full crimp for someone like me? As you go up in grades, are there more situations in which a half crimp simply won't suffice? Thanks.
I don't really agree with the advice of full crimping at every possible opportunity, if you don't have to, then don't.
I don't know how hard you climb but I recommend practicing crimps rather than training crimps, just crimp on a bunch of holds and get the experience so that you can decide which grip to use when crimping, or if crimping is necessary. If you get to the point where you want to train crimps, train in what is most comfortable, they all use the same muscles.
For the last part of your question, yeah probably.
For reference I climb 7C/7C+(v9/v10) on the 2016 Moonboard and I find myself using every crimp type.
Basically just use it when you think it's needed and be aware of when, why and how often you are using it, train/condition/rest accordingly
@eurekaflows thanks 😊
Yeah sorry I didn’t mean to suggest that you should try to full crimp all the time, it’s just personal preference for me! Some people prefer/feel stronger in other grip types, and sometimes even feel stronger in a 3 finger drag than a full crimp! So definitely try to use whatever grip feels strongest/most comfortable for you, because everyone’s body is built different!
I definitely wouldn’t recommend training full crimp and it’s something that will develop naturally if you body feels like it wants to do it :)
Great presenter.
loved the crimp-pov, nice insight on what it feels like to have strong arms :)
also: why does everyone say dualtex when they actually mean the notex portion of dualtex holds? :P
Haha I think we usually refer to the whole hold when we say dualtex because often the location of the no-tex influences how you approach and use the whole hold!
Once your hands form those callouses, gripping becomes easier by 45%
backzilla fr fr
Yes the very pretty duo texture XD
ooooh boy when I heard you say “high-risk” and realised what that meant i physically cringed…That shit makes me paranoid as fuckkkk. I mean open-hand grips feels fucking gross too but my fingers feel terrible after a crimp as well. Idk I genuinely don’t know how you’re supposed to open-hand with your pinky?? Like it’s not even long enough. I never even knew a crimp had to have 90° angle on the fingers, cus mine do and I thought they were just messed up.
How has no one commented on that babies head hold wtf
A classic 😅