I have a friend who has this car, he was running on less than half of the oil he was supposed to. I got the oil up back to where it was, but what you have to say on it, is astronomically helpful
Thank you bro im gonna try use the bg engine restore stuff, mines got 250k and loses almost a quart a week driving around 500-600 miles a week. i drive the thing gently too i got a stick shift. i been seeing dollars fly out my pocket im like whats wrong with this thing lol appreciate the info, subscribed bro
Ok...let me fast forward to the back of the can. BG does not recommend using the product if your engine has very high mileage such as 250k +. In this case, I would recommend adding about 1/2 cup of Mercon Dextron ATF to your oil just before changing it. USE ONLY AT IDLE. DOT NOT DRIVE THE CAR. Idle the engine for about 30 mins before oil change. After the 30 minute idle, Allow to cool for 30 mins. Then change the oil and filter. U could also try Lucas oil treatment. You can actually drive with the lucas oil treatment and it does EXCELLENT at cleaning the inside of the engine. If Mechanically savvy....remove the catalyst and exhaust manifold and check the exhaust ports for excessive oil clumps....if you see that...then the valve stem seals have failed. If you replace the seals and it continues to use oil...you will need subesquent cleanings with ATF or Lucas treatments. BG cleanser is quite harsh. Be Very careful with very high mileage engines.
I'm building a FS-De motor. For my 03 MP5. I want to buy a ZE but they cost about $1200. In 2021 and I have 2 DE motors. So I'm building one . And really enjoying your videos.
Wow...I just checked the price of the JDM FS20....MAN THOSE PRICES HAVE REALLY INCREASED!! The first one I bought was only $550.00!! The second one I purchased was like $730.00. There is one on ebay now for like $1,079....which is the cheapest. I had no Idea they had got that expensive....this inflation is out of control!!
The FSDE has a terrible oil pan. With high handling limits of the Protege, smaller than average quarts of oil it can hold and oil burning issues; the high g limits can cause oil starvation in cylinder 2 and 3. Buy an oil pan with baffles. AWR used to make one, but they have since gone out of production. Hydra currently have one with increase oil capacity. At $400+ it isn't cheap, but it is insurance for future headaches
I actually had considered buying this as an upgrade. The only thing stopping me was well....the price. Not cheap but well worth it if you have an aggressive driving style or you race a lot.
@@YourMom-vl2sp Well....not by much. At the time I replaced my blown engine with the FSZE they were selling for like $550.00 from JDM Orlando, Orlando Florida. Now, because of inflation they are like $700 - $1200. Because of my findings, id rather combine this oil pan with a JDM import engine for a really nice combo. Get both, double the wins.
Excellent excellent excellent! 2 great videos! Can't wait for the video about the AFR controller! I have a 626 and would like to fix this problem. Huge like and subscribe
I have a 1.6 Mazda motor that has 283,000 on it plus run but you are right on one thing it does clog up the catalytic converter fast I had to clean it every 25,000 miles because excessive oil burning because valve stems are bad
I'm glad you finally posted a new video it's just I'm going to be building the fsde motor so I wish I knew about that other motor before but oh well I'll try to get it sometime in the future
@@renellplatero7408 If you have not bought the pistons yet, you could call up JE Pistons and have them make you a set of forged units with a CR or 10.5:1 for about $550+ - bucks.......and they come with rings.
@@renellplatero7408 I dont have the footage but I put a new cylinderhead atop my FSZE before it failed. It switched the FSH9 higher lift camshaft out for the FS1G that normally comes in these cars and put on the ported manifold, the result was that the Protege was extra punchy in the low rpm ranges and had very good midrange power. Makes dailying the car very easy and kind of fun when you punch it to blast around slow pokers.
I new already few information what you talking in the video, which is great part of knowledge of are Mazda's. I'm also using bigger oil filter, flushed my both 2.0 FS 323 ( Europe ). The valve sealing are worn out for sure, and piston rings stuck... that's my thoughts even after flushing those engine's. What I'm gonna do is changing the valve sealing and try to poot engine flush at the top of the pistons for 24/48h leaving them in the middle. If that's not gonna work...measuring all and piston rings replacement if that's be enough. BTW I'm changing oil every 10th km and it's Liqui Moly Synthoil 5W40. Great video and keep it going!
Here is another well known product amongs Techs and Mechs...Automatic Tranmission fluid also disolves carbon and oil deposits as well....you could use some of this in your engine oil as well to help out with carbon dissolution.
@@RetrocarStyle Thanks for info. I know the flushing brand tec 2000 what having in spec toluene and it works pretty good with carbon deposit. Summer time I will take off intake and exhaust manifold to check them. It is done pretty a lot in mine and my girlfriend car so I will try to provide warn out them. Will try also kerosene... like an older day's - will see. In mine Sportive version I will change exhaust manifold from Ford Probe as well but first valve sealing. What do you think of removing butterfly's from intake manifold? EGR is blind BTW. Piggy back could help to tune them better then the factory?
@@RetrocarStyle I will be changing the fifth gear from Mazda 626 2.0 FS 115hp it is longer then ours. The difference is around 4/5 hundred rpm so 100km from 3000rpm you having 2500/2600. For a highway and milage is a good option...I 🤔 😆
@@Gronozzz You would need to change the harmonic balancer pulley and the intake manifold...in my car i didnt change the manifold i modified the plastic reservoir to make it work with the fuel U.S. style fuel rail.
For this Protege, no plans for boosting.....BUT....there MAY be another Protege build coming after the SAAB that could feature a Turbo...........lets see how this turns out.
I strongly suggest using 10w-30 or 10w-40 full synthetic. Feel free to use what ever weight you'd like. I only make the suggestion due to the information that I have come across.
Are the cranks so different between usdm and jdm? Im in the process of " converting " an usdm into jdm, only missing installing the pistons, which I'm doing for the exact oil burning issues on this video. Was looking forward to making the car my daily for the low fuel consumption.. at least compared to my other cars... but If it is as such, I will just forge the block and turbo it. I will just mod the oil pump then. Unrelated question, which exhaust cam does your ZE have? fs9p/fs0p-a or fsd7?
Super late reply but it uses the FSD7. Also the cranks share the same bore and stroke, but the quality of the JDM crank is much higher than that of its US domestic counterpart.
@@RetrocarStyle both are supposed to be forged. Its really the rods that are so very weak... well, both the rods and the bolts, the bolts always let go first, I'm going to use arp, which is too much cost for something so simple
have 3 proteges, none of my engines look like this at all lol. I have 2 x 2.0 (high compression) and 1x 1.6. 1.6 such a better engine. 2.0s I need to check that fluids daily lol. 2.0 is crazy fast though for what it is. Spanked a Tesla 3 just a few days ago who tried to follow me into a roundabout at highspeed, couldnt keep car together and slammed on his brakes whilst I accelerated through at speed with ease. I love these cars. I service mine every 1-2k and use full synthetic Castrol oil. My cars have only tasted 98 octane.
Keep in mind the Protege weighs only 2672 lbs...the Tesla weighs alot more than that because its basically a hugr battery. The added weight well prevent it feom being able to brake late in corners. It would have to brake early due to its porky heft!
@@RetrocarStyle my engine is an FS but from AU. THe only cars ive seen on the market that are broken in AU have been neglected. Its not normal for people to check oil levels in this country either lol. Let alone service their car. THey basically drive til there is a problem and palm it off to someone else.
I have a friend who has this car, he was running on less than half of the oil he was supposed to. I got the oil up back to where it was, but what you have to say on it, is astronomically helpful
Thank you bro im gonna try use the bg engine restore stuff, mines got 250k and loses almost a quart a week driving around 500-600 miles a week. i drive the thing gently too i got a stick shift. i been seeing dollars fly out my pocket im like whats wrong with this thing lol appreciate the info, subscribed bro
Ok...let me fast forward to the back of the can. BG does not recommend using the product if your engine has very high mileage such as 250k +. In this case, I would recommend adding about 1/2 cup of Mercon Dextron ATF to your oil just before changing it. USE ONLY AT IDLE. DOT NOT DRIVE THE CAR. Idle the engine for about 30 mins before oil change. After the 30 minute idle, Allow to cool for 30 mins. Then change the oil and filter. U could also try Lucas oil treatment. You can actually drive with the lucas oil treatment and it does EXCELLENT at cleaning the inside of the engine. If Mechanically savvy....remove the catalyst and exhaust manifold and check the exhaust ports for excessive oil clumps....if you see that...then the valve stem seals have failed. If you replace the seals and it continues to use oil...you will need subesquent cleanings with ATF or Lucas treatments. BG cleanser is quite harsh. Be Very careful with very high mileage engines.
I'm building a FS-De motor. For my 03 MP5. I want to buy a ZE but they cost about $1200. In 2021 and I have 2 DE motors. So I'm building one . And really enjoying your videos.
Wow...I just checked the price of the JDM FS20....MAN THOSE PRICES HAVE REALLY INCREASED!! The first one I bought was only $550.00!! The second one I purchased was like $730.00. There is one on ebay now for like $1,079....which is the cheapest. I had no Idea they had got that expensive....this inflation is out of control!!
The FSDE has a terrible oil pan. With high handling limits of the Protege, smaller than average quarts of oil it can hold and oil burning issues; the high g limits can cause oil starvation in cylinder 2 and 3. Buy an oil pan with baffles. AWR used to make one, but they have since gone out of production. Hydra currently have one with increase oil capacity. At $400+ it isn't cheap, but it is insurance for future headaches
I actually had considered buying this as an upgrade. The only thing stopping me was well....the price. Not cheap but well worth it if you have an aggressive driving style or you race a lot.
@@RetrocarStyle cheaper than a new motor. 🤑 Great videos. Keep up the great work
@@YourMom-vl2sp Well....not by much. At the time I replaced my blown engine with the FSZE they were selling for like $550.00 from JDM Orlando, Orlando Florida. Now, because of inflation they are like $700 - $1200. Because of my findings, id rather combine this oil pan with a JDM import engine for a really nice combo. Get both, double the wins.
THESE VIDEOS ARE SO GREAT. I CANT TELL YOU. THANKYOU. ) 03 MAZDA ASTINA SP20 HATCH 250 000KS MELB AUSTRALIA
Glad You like the content. More to come!
Excellent excellent excellent! 2 great videos! Can't wait for the video about the AFR controller! I have a 626 and would like to fix this problem. Huge like and subscribe
Excellent info !
Trying to convince my mechanic to do the BCG motor treatment on my mazda.🤔
If you cant get it done...you know who to call...😎
I have a 1.6 Mazda motor that has 283,000 on it plus run but you are right on one thing it does clog up the catalytic converter fast I had to clean it every 25,000 miles because excessive oil burning because valve stems are bad
I'm glad you finally posted a new video it's just I'm going to be building the fsde motor so I wish I knew about that other motor before but oh well I'll try to get it sometime in the future
How far have you got on the rebuild?
@@RetrocarStyle getting the piston & rings, bearings.
@@renellplatero7408 If you have not bought the pistons yet, you could call up JE Pistons and have them make you a set of forged units with a CR or 10.5:1 for about $550+ - bucks.......and they come with rings.
@@RetrocarStyle ok Kool. I think I might do that. Thxs boss
@@renellplatero7408 I dont have the footage but I put a new cylinderhead atop my FSZE before it failed. It switched the FSH9 higher lift camshaft out for the FS1G that normally comes in these cars and put on the ported manifold, the result was that the Protege was extra punchy in the low rpm ranges and had very good midrange power. Makes dailying the car very easy and kind of fun when you punch it to blast around slow pokers.
I new already few information what you talking in the video, which is great part of knowledge of are Mazda's. I'm also using bigger oil filter, flushed my both 2.0 FS 323 ( Europe ).
The valve sealing are worn out for sure, and piston rings stuck... that's my thoughts even after flushing those engine's. What I'm gonna do is changing the valve sealing and try to poot engine flush at the top of the pistons for 24/48h leaving them in the middle. If that's not gonna work...measuring all and piston rings replacement if that's be enough. BTW
I'm changing oil every 10th km and it's Liqui Moly Synthoil 5W40.
Great video and keep it going!
Here is another well known product amongs Techs and Mechs...Automatic Tranmission fluid also disolves carbon and oil deposits as well....you could use some of this in your engine oil as well to help out with carbon dissolution.
@@RetrocarStyle
Thanks for info.
I know the flushing brand tec 2000 what having in spec toluene and it works pretty good with carbon deposit. Summer time I will take off intake and exhaust manifold to check them. It is done pretty a lot in mine and my girlfriend car so I will try to provide warn out them.
Will try also kerosene... like an older day's - will see.
In mine Sportive version I will change exhaust manifold from Ford Probe as well but first valve sealing.
What do you think of removing butterfly's from intake manifold? EGR is blind BTW.
Piggy back could help to tune them better then the factory?
@@RetrocarStyle
I will be changing the fifth gear from Mazda 626 2.0 FS 115hp it is longer then ours. The difference is around 4/5 hundred rpm so 100km from 3000rpm you having 2500/2600. For a highway and milage is a good option...I 🤔 😆
@@RetrocarStyle
Last thing😆
If I could find FS-ZE engine with what it has to be to not have any issue doing the swap?
Thanks a lot 🙏
@@Gronozzz You would need to change the harmonic balancer pulley and the intake manifold...in my car i didnt change the manifold i modified the plastic reservoir to make it work with the fuel U.S. style fuel rail.
Good stuff, very informative 😎👍 Any plans on boosting this car eventually?
For this Protege, no plans for boosting.....BUT....there MAY be another Protege build coming after the SAAB that could feature a Turbo...........lets see how this turns out.
@@RetrocarStyle that I like!!
Doesnt the fs-de run best on 10-30? Mazda recommends 10-30w for my 01 626
You can use 10W-30 or 10W-40
Mazda Protege uses 5w30 or 10w30 ( with high millage ) oil engine. I use Castrol Edge 5w30 C3 in my Mazda Protege and I have not any problem.
I strongly suggest using 10w-30 or 10w-40 full synthetic. Feel free to use what ever weight you'd like. I only make the suggestion due to the information that I have come across.
Are the cranks so different between usdm and jdm? Im in the process of " converting " an usdm into jdm, only missing installing the pistons, which I'm doing for the exact oil burning issues on this video. Was looking forward to making the car my daily for the low fuel consumption.. at least compared to my other cars... but If it is as such, I will just forge the block and turbo it. I will just mod the oil pump then.
Unrelated question, which exhaust cam does your ZE have? fs9p/fs0p-a or fsd7?
Super late reply but it uses the FSD7. Also the cranks share the same bore and stroke, but the quality of the JDM crank is much higher than that of its US domestic counterpart.
@@RetrocarStyle both are supposed to be forged. Its really the rods that are so very weak... well, both the rods and the bolts, the bolts always let go first, I'm going to use arp, which is too much cost for something so simple
@@KreepaEvoX Both cranks are forged...but if you take a closer look...the JDM crank appears to be a much higher quality forging.
ZE with the higher compression engines should have the FS9 cam
have 3 proteges, none of my engines look like this at all lol. I have 2 x 2.0 (high compression) and 1x 1.6. 1.6 such a better engine. 2.0s I need to check that fluids daily lol. 2.0 is crazy fast though for what it is. Spanked a Tesla 3 just a few days ago who tried to follow me into a roundabout at highspeed, couldnt keep car together and slammed on his brakes whilst I accelerated through at speed with ease. I love these cars. I service mine every 1-2k and use full synthetic Castrol oil. My cars have only tasted 98 octane.
Keep in mind the Protege weighs only 2672 lbs...the Tesla weighs alot more than that because its basically a hugr battery. The added weight well prevent it feom being able to brake late in corners. It would have to brake early due to its porky heft!
Also...I have not had this issue out of my JDM FDZE engine...only the US FSDE ive experienced this with.
@@RetrocarStyle my engine is an FS but from AU. THe only cars ive seen on the market that are broken in AU have been neglected. Its not normal for people to check oil levels in this country either lol. Let alone service their car. THey basically drive til there is a problem and palm it off to someone else.