Watch all the other episodes on this car using these links! Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/42ET632De0g/v-deo.html Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/4OoP3WSSALE/v-deo.html Part 3: ua-cam.com/video/dyKcaSoB5Rk/v-deo.html Part 5: ua-cam.com/video/fe8QwoVekC8/v-deo.html Part 6: ua-cam.com/video/yLpFL2I77Yc/v-deo.html
Dang, this shop is incredible......and you actually work outside allot. The knowledge of this team is incredible. You guys just get things done, whatever the challenge.
Wow, Brent. It didn't look better in -84 ! About the windshield washer pump, I had one that was stuck, but compared to the newer type replacement, it's actually a better built pump. Also contrary to the newer one, it's serviceable. So I opened it, which was unexpectedly easy, cleaned it (grinding off a bit of rust from the laminated rotor) and gave it a drop of oil, and it still works for me.. but you probably done that already.
@@edredas If same way as the starter motor- Very fast indeed. But seriously besides the only new one I could get over here (EU) was inferior quality, just one block of plastic, it was my daily drive and I opted to fix the old one for the same reason, time. Not working time, though. It would have taken me longer to wait for parts. Autumn in Norway can be rally wet and I already had to stop once on the highway after a truck in front left me completely blind without washer fluid.
Man, I just love the engine bay details. I have an excellent source if you need to have some of those decals remade. I have a video I made on one of my cars coming out in the next few weeks. Great work,
Filipe Ferreira Garzon Studios. Google them. They are awesome. garzonstudio.com/car-project-decals.html?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=4668e32e2cab265ed3db29aa2e1537b0ad1650f0-1581355287-0-ARrod9vyFrWkIrQRy9PE5uM2TJTozIzRXluE-JFIpMyyXGxhH5httXvtmDmkPUqHoyPzsPP90e2OLaCR4KrskhhRhzus3bdEsPxciUDNmenNFjX-lnX_2opaVGTMp2bNO5lM7kKG836KLhdGNz68VV9QAeoO4p3CtvQrakvD9j8rWzdP-E3NzVLSGyiok5VV9rEeggAWrL9rQFSMU98NE6PPSgQSFepjJAQ1lkJL_7B_jGETijcHEhaGLXyOdsE0DnBZ1_X5yoqZIG7-Tmb4NWncqdxZLPoz0-HOiI629YWCiRfNynt-AagcJjK4n_oMBg
Its in production and coming soon. We are trying to finish up the interior and get the car to paint before the next video comes out! So stay tuned! Thanks!
That bay looks soooo good! Do you have a video of replacing the washer tank? BTW I used your advice on adjusting the headlight buckets and now I can see at night! many thanks!
Not yet but it’s pretty easy to remove. There’s just a bolt up top then two down below. You’ll also have to pop up the headlights to drop it out the bottom. 85.5 and later require a bracket to be removed underneath while 88 and later models have smaller tanks. I hope that helps!
Do you have a video on how to fix a rear hatch that is delaminating from the frame? I was told by a Porsche specialist shop it is a real bear of a job. I want to do this on mine cause they said this is why i cant get my hatch to pop open.
No, and unfortunately I'll probably never make one, although I get asked all the time. There's a lot of reasons why, mainly because I have too many cars at the shop these days it would take too much time. Not to mention good hatches are rather cheap so its just easier to replace them in a few minutes for a few hundred rather than someone paying me a few hundred an hour to fix them, when that could end up costing a few grand. So, it doesn't make sense at the end of the day. That said, if I ever have the chance I will make a video on the process. From what I've heard, stay away from silicone and only use products that bond to glass. I hope that helps!
i have been looking around for a new (-) & (+) battery cable assy and they are pricey. looks like removal and replicating the oem with a part with all the correct cable sizes is the way to go. I'm having a low charging issue, if the car is jumped it stays on and runs fine. shut it off and start it again it seems fine, but the cables' insulation is almost all gone. the copper is corroded on both.
I had to replace those in my car. I just went to napa and got some 1 AWG wire the correct length and then put my own ends with heat shrink on them. I think it was about $50.
We have the parts blasted and replated. Sometimes the clamps are brand new since they rust. It’s not too expensive, costing about $200 or so for everything. Thanks!
I try to be mindful of what I use. Products like Armor All tends to look nice for a few minutes but then you can't really tell you applied anything at all. Then you've got some petroleum based products that last a long time but have some unintended side effects. Products like tire shine work great and while the sheen lasts longer, sometimes it leaves behind a brown residue once it fades that cannot be removed. So that's fine on tires which are consumable, but not ideal on engine bay parts. I also have to use this stuff around aluminum parts, so petroleum based stuff is out since it will turn aluminum a dark brown. So, what I use may sound weird but its just regular old WD-40. Its water based and I just leave it on until it dries. The sheen will last a while and you can just rinse it off at anytime without anything being left behind. Best part is it also prevents aluminum from oxidizing and won't turn it any odd colors. I hope that helps!
What year is your car? If you have an early car (82-85.1) you can try brighter incandescent bulbs. I have a few early cars and can see everything clearly, but going to 924S gauges which have white numerals may also help. LED bulbs tend to focus the light in one area while leaving the rest of the face dark, so keep that in mind. The later gauges cannot be installed into an earlier car and they are often dimmer than the earlier cars, so there is no upgrade there. However if you have an 85.5 and later car you can make the gauges brighter by fixing the reflective material and also adding brighter bulbs as well. Since these gauges are back lit with the light being projected onto the front of the gauges the are often not as bright as the early cars, even when working properly. I hope that helps!
Did you just clean up the cast aluminum pieces, or paint them as well? How did you reattach the blower motor shroud? On an '84 that I have I was thinking of trying to come up with a mechanical fastening system. That black gunk took forever and a day to clean up. There's no way I'm using that!
Yes all the aluminum was cleaned and no paint was used. As for the shroud, the black stuff released cleanly from the shrouds so there was no mess. Then I just stuck the new one back on and heated it up with the the heat gun. It’s back on like it was never replaced.
Thanks, yes the issue is often a problem with the pads being worn or the mechanism itself needing adjustment. There is a method that must be used when reinstalling the disc to assure proper operation of the hand brake. If the pads look good and do not appear to be glazed over, use the pad adjustment dial to move them out as far as possible but still allow the disc to go on. The tighter the fit the better. You'll want them to be extremely snug against the disc and then if that was the issue, then the brake should hold with just two tiny clicks. I hope that helps!
I'm experiencing a no crank issue with my 87 924S. I turn the key and all I get is a click. I replaced the battery and starter and cleaned all connections so I'm not sure what the problem is. Any ideas?
All sorts of variables there at this point. Someone could have added an alarm and hacked up the wiring... I had that happen once. It could also be a bad ignition switch. They're known to crack and cause all sorts of issues. However I would start with the wiring. Make sure you are getting continuity between the wire at the starter solenoid and the switch. There is also a wire that runs from the battery to the switch, that you'll need to verify is sending power. That wire was what they cut when they installed that alarm. If you have power at the switch but its not making it to the starter, then it will be a broken switch. Anyway, that should get you started. I hope that helps!
Thank you so much for the advice! I replaced the ignition switch and that seemed to do the trick for a few days. Now the same problem has returned. I'll check the continuity and wiring and see what I discover. Really appreciate your helpful feedback!
tiderfish Oh no, those are brand new... I toss them since there's no way I want to spend all that time building an engine only to have it run rough due to an old part. 👍
This thing was resprayed several times before. We did remove a lot of over spray from the previous jobs but short of removing everything I’m sure I missed a lot.
My son and I are currently rebuilding a 1987 944s the 389th off the line! Would you happen to know what the injection flow rate and ohms are for it i have looked at a few forums and flow rates very from 196cc pr/min to 260cc pr/min at 3bar for the same injector any advice would be appreciated. Pepr
Oh I see that you meant 944S... I missed the lower case 's'. A lot of times people will just put a lower case s on the end of 944 for being plural, so my brain just ignores it at this point. That said, with a 944S the part number is 0 280 150 811 the book says the flow rate is 277 cc/min@ 3 bar with 2.4 ohm. I hope that helps!
I buy 90% of all my parts from pelicanpart.com, while I buy my water pumps from rockauto.com. Not affiliated with either one! Good luck with your project!
Hard to say since getting a car running can be easy, but making it reliable is another. I'd say in order to make it reliable you may spend close to a grand in parts. I always replace the belts, rollers, water pump, front seals, collars, oil cooler seals, vacuum lines, and coolant hoses before considering driving it anywhere. I hope that helps!
If you remember me, I'm the guy near Buffalo NY with a 1984 944 that won't start... still... I've found a few wires behind the relay and fuse panels that aren't connected, any idea where they might go? the first is a black/red wire with a bare connector, the next is a 2 wire plug with round holes for the connector one wire is bright greensand the 2nd is bright green with black stripe... there are also 2 wires that have clear long rectangular plastic plug covers, one is white/black stripe and thin, the other has the same type of clear plug end, I cant remember the color of that one... I don't know what else to do to get this thing started.... please help
Hi, there are a lot of random wires back there that don't plug into anything unless you have optional equipment. For instance if you don't have the rear wiper the wires will just be back there not connected to anything. That said, what have you checked so far? I would start with the basics. Jump the DME relay and then check for tach bounce. Afterwards check the sensors and fuel pump. I hope that helps!
when you got a sleave installed on the block did you use stock pistons? or did you use aftermarket pistons that work for both alusil and the steel sleave? hope you have time to respond i love your channel!
I used the original pistons for this engine. The stock pistons have an iron coating to prevent the silicone in the alusil block from wearing the piston skirts but will work just fine with a steel sleeve. So while you can put just about any piston in a sleeved engine, you need a ferro coated piston in an alusil block. Thanks!
I have done it before and it works to some degree. I did it just to see how it would hold up compared to the plating. However in person the plating has an iridescent look to it with reds and greens. That can be simulated with some colored stain and then clear coated, but if you're going to go to all the trouble, the plating is not that expensive. You can get all the bolts and every part plated for about $150 or so and its a lot less work. I hope that helps!
@@edredas Thanks, I actually have some experience with painting to simulate plating, such as how I did so with metallic green paint+ misted on gold paint on parts of a Porsche 914. It looked pretty good. But if you say that plating everything is only about $150, I think that's a better deal. :)
@@Vwp914 I didn't rebuild mine either. I just took what came off as part of other work, and since it was off, I cleaned it up as best I could. In the case of stuff that was plated, it was easy to get it re-plated. The thing with painted-to-look plated stuff is that it'll chip and wear like a painted part, which will then look pretty cheesy in short order.
Yeah it can be a headache. I've got two full time guys and we are overloaded with work and so I don't have time to edit much these days. Not to mention that I had a glitch with my computer for a while that has been really slowing me down. For whatever reason my editing software wasn't recognizing my files. I finally had to install a fresh copy of windows and that seems to have resolved it. So I hope to get caught up on some videos soon! That said, the car is mostly finished and I'm already showing teasers of it on facebook and on Pateron... so hopefully it won't be too long! Thanks!
Watch all the other episodes on this car using these links!
Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/42ET632De0g/v-deo.html
Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/4OoP3WSSALE/v-deo.html
Part 3: ua-cam.com/video/dyKcaSoB5Rk/v-deo.html
Part 5: ua-cam.com/video/fe8QwoVekC8/v-deo.html
Part 6: ua-cam.com/video/yLpFL2I77Yc/v-deo.html
I have worked on quite a few 944 of my own and I have never! seen an engine bay so goddamn clean in my life, absolutely amazing
Dang, this shop is incredible......and you actually work outside allot. The knowledge of this team is incredible. You guys just get things done, whatever the challenge.
Great job like usual...waiting for part 5!
You do great work. I own an 88 928 S4....i love to see the lil brother looking and running well.
Pretty work young man!
Wow, Brent. It didn't look better in -84 ! About the windshield washer pump, I had one that was stuck, but compared to the newer type replacement, it's actually a better built pump. Also contrary to the newer one, it's serviceable. So I opened it, which was unexpectedly easy, cleaned it (grinding off a bit of rust from the laminated rotor) and gave it a drop of oil, and it still works for me.. but you probably done that already.
I just went ahead and bought a new one. I think it was about $13 and saved me a load of time. Thanks!
@@edredas If same way as the starter motor- Very fast indeed. But seriously besides the only new one I could get over here (EU) was inferior quality, just one block of plastic, it was my daily drive and I opted to fix the old one for the same reason, time. Not working time, though. It would have taken me longer to wait for parts. Autumn in Norway can be rally wet and I already had to stop once on the highway after a truck in front left me completely blind without washer fluid.
Awesome work!
Another great video.
Looks brand new! Nice work.
Thanks!
so clean and beautiful under the hood.
Brilliant videos
Woah Amazing Job !!!
As always, another great vid.....making it look so easy! 😁
Thanks!
Man, I just love the engine bay details. I have an excellent source if you need to have some of those decals remade. I have a video I made on one of my cars coming out in the next few weeks. Great work,
Can you told us about that source?
Filipe Ferreira Garzon Studios. Google them. They are awesome. garzonstudio.com/car-project-decals.html?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=4668e32e2cab265ed3db29aa2e1537b0ad1650f0-1581355287-0-ARrod9vyFrWkIrQRy9PE5uM2TJTozIzRXluE-JFIpMyyXGxhH5httXvtmDmkPUqHoyPzsPP90e2OLaCR4KrskhhRhzus3bdEsPxciUDNmenNFjX-lnX_2opaVGTMp2bNO5lM7kKG836KLhdGNz68VV9QAeoO4p3CtvQrakvD9j8rWzdP-E3NzVLSGyiok5VV9rEeggAWrL9rQFSMU98NE6PPSgQSFepjJAQ1lkJL_7B_jGETijcHEhaGLXyOdsE0DnBZ1_X5yoqZIG7-Tmb4NWncqdxZLPoz0-HOiI629YWCiRfNynt-AagcJjK4n_oMBg
Beautiful. Where's part 5??
Its in production and coming soon. We are trying to finish up the interior and get the car to paint before the next video comes out! So stay tuned! Thanks!
That bay looks soooo good! Do you have a video of replacing the washer tank? BTW I used your advice on adjusting the headlight buckets and now I can see at night! many thanks!
Not yet but it’s pretty easy to remove. There’s just a bolt up top then two down below. You’ll also have to pop up the headlights to drop it out the bottom. 85.5 and later require a bracket to be removed underneath while 88 and later models have smaller tanks. I hope that helps!
Awesome, I'll let you know how it goes!
Perfection!🌞
Okay Brent...how do I get my 944 to you? Needs some body work and I’d love to get my engine to that level of quality. That’s amazing...
Hi email me at edredas@gmail.com and I’ll try to put you on the list. Thanks!
Do you have a video on how to fix a rear hatch that is delaminating from the frame? I was told by a Porsche specialist shop it is a real bear of a job. I want to do this on mine cause they said this is why i cant get my hatch to pop open.
No, and unfortunately I'll probably never make one, although I get asked all the time. There's a lot of reasons why, mainly because I have too many cars at the shop these days it would take too much time. Not to mention good hatches are rather cheap so its just easier to replace them in a few minutes for a few hundred rather than someone paying me a few hundred an hour to fix them, when that could end up costing a few grand. So, it doesn't make sense at the end of the day. That said, if I ever have the chance I will make a video on the process. From what I've heard, stay away from silicone and only use products that bond to glass. I hope that helps!
If only life was like video editing - crap I need a new starter, oh there it is in the mail !
Is the plating Cadmium? It seems like it harder to find anyone that does this.
It’s yellow zinc instead of cadmium.
i have been looking around for a new (-) & (+) battery cable assy and they are pricey. looks like removal and replicating the oem with a part with all the correct cable sizes is the way to go. I'm having a low charging issue, if the car is jumped it stays on and runs fine. shut it off and start it again it seems fine, but the cables' insulation is almost all gone. the copper is corroded on both.
I had to replace those in my car. I just went to napa and got some 1 AWG wire the correct length and then put my own ends with heat shrink on them. I think it was about $50.
do you have amodized machine so zinc code all old bolts and hose clams or you got all new bolts from porsche its probably reallly expensive ??
We have the parts blasted and replated. Sometimes the clamps are brand new since they rust. It’s not too expensive, costing about $200 or so for everything. Thanks!
Just wondering how you get that nice sheen on those plastic parts, not too much, just right Brent. Really nice as always.
I try to be mindful of what I use. Products like Armor All tends to look nice for a few minutes but then you can't really tell you applied anything at all. Then you've got some petroleum based products that last a long time but have some unintended side effects. Products like tire shine work great and while the sheen lasts longer, sometimes it leaves behind a brown residue once it fades that cannot be removed. So that's fine on tires which are consumable, but not ideal on engine bay parts. I also have to use this stuff around aluminum parts, so petroleum based stuff is out since it will turn aluminum a dark brown. So, what I use may sound weird but its just regular old WD-40. Its water based and I just leave it on until it dries. The sheen will last a while and you can just rinse it off at anytime without anything being left behind. Best part is it also prevents aluminum from oxidizing and won't turn it any odd colors. I hope that helps!
The cluster is old in these cars can I change it to a update 1 or better lighting
What year is your car? If you have an early car (82-85.1) you can try brighter incandescent bulbs. I have a few early cars and can see everything clearly, but going to 924S gauges which have white numerals may also help. LED bulbs tend to focus the light in one area while leaving the rest of the face dark, so keep that in mind. The later gauges cannot be installed into an earlier car and they are often dimmer than the earlier cars, so there is no upgrade there. However if you have an 85.5 and later car you can make the gauges brighter by fixing the reflective material and also adding brighter bulbs as well. Since these gauges are back lit with the light being projected onto the front of the gauges the are often not as bright as the early cars, even when working properly. I hope that helps!
Did you just clean up the cast aluminum pieces, or paint them as well? How did you reattach the blower motor shroud? On an '84 that I have I was thinking of trying to come up with a mechanical fastening system. That black gunk took forever and a day to clean up. There's no way I'm using that!
Yes all the aluminum was cleaned and no paint was used. As for the shroud, the black stuff released cleanly from the shrouds so there was no mess. Then I just stuck the new one back on and heated it up with the the heat gun. It’s back on like it was never replaced.
who replated the bolts and brakets and fuel rail i need a good company or someone that do that kind job
Love the videos! Gets me inspired to work on my 85 944 was wondering if you seen problems with the parking brake cable not engaging? Keep up the vids!
Thanks, yes the issue is often a problem with the pads being worn or the mechanism itself needing adjustment. There is a method that must be used when reinstalling the disc to assure proper operation of the hand brake. If the pads look good and do not appear to be glazed over, use the pad adjustment dial to move them out as far as possible but still allow the disc to go on. The tighter the fit the better. You'll want them to be extremely snug against the disc and then if that was the issue, then the brake should hold with just two tiny clicks. I hope that helps!
I'm experiencing a no crank issue with my 87 924S. I turn the key and all I get is a click. I replaced the battery and starter and cleaned all connections so I'm not sure what the problem is. Any ideas?
All sorts of variables there at this point. Someone could have added an alarm and hacked up the wiring... I had that happen once. It could also be a bad ignition switch. They're known to crack and cause all sorts of issues. However I would start with the wiring. Make sure you are getting continuity between the wire at the starter solenoid and the switch. There is also a wire that runs from the battery to the switch, that you'll need to verify is sending power. That wire was what they cut when they installed that alarm. If you have power at the switch but its not making it to the starter, then it will be a broken switch. Anyway, that should get you started. I hope that helps!
Thank you so much for the advice! I replaced the ignition switch and that seemed to do the trick for a few days. Now the same problem has returned. I'll check the continuity and wiring and see what I discover. Really appreciate your helpful feedback!
Solenoid
Where did you find the brand new looking fuel rail and other parts lol I can only find used stuff that looks slightly used haha
I had the fuel rail replated along with all the bolts. So it’s an old rail that was made to look new again.
@@edredas i noticed the fuel regulators were replated as well. Is that safe for the internal diaphragms?
tiderfish Oh no, those are brand new... I toss them since there's no way I want to spend all that time building an engine only to have it run rough due to an old part. 👍
@@edredas You're luck it was an early model. I recently bought a new flow damper for the later rail in my 924S and it wasn't cheap.
what about that radiator with red paint on it?
This thing was resprayed several times before. We did remove a lot of over spray from the previous jobs but short of removing everything I’m sure I missed a lot.
Part 5?
It's currently in production, should be out soon. In the meantime there will be some videos on some other cars that we've been working on. Thanks!
Heii just wanted to ask wat a client pay for such a beautiful restoring?
A restoration like this is usually about $15-20k depending on how much needs to be replaced. Thanks!
Where do you get your parts for the 944 from?
Thank you for the videos!
I buy 90% of all my parts from pelicanparts.com. No affiliation. Thanks!
Hey! What is your go-to website for parts? Where did you send the injectors to be rebuilt?
Usually pelicanparts.com for most of my new parts and RC injector to have them clean and flow matched.
My son and I are currently rebuilding a 1987 944s the 389th off the line! Would you happen to know what the injection flow rate and ohms are for it i have looked at a few forums and flow rates very from 196cc pr/min to 260cc pr/min at 3bar for the same injector any advice would be appreciated. Pepr
Congrats! Your '87 should have fuel injectors with part number 0 280 150 158 and a flow rate of 229 cc/min@ 3 bar with 2.4 ohm. I hope that helps!
Thanks for the prompt reply porsche part number is 94460611201 bosch number is 0280150811..
Oh I see that you meant 944S... I missed the lower case 's'. A lot of times people will just put a lower case s on the end of 944 for being plural, so my brain just ignores it at this point. That said, with a 944S the part number is 0 280 150 811 the book says the flow rate is 277 cc/min@ 3 bar with 2.4 ohm. I hope that helps!
hi, where do you buy all your parts, i have a same proyect and i need to change the whater pum
I buy 90% of all my parts from pelicanpart.com, while I buy my water pumps from rockauto.com. Not affiliated with either one! Good luck with your project!
What’s the typical amount u spend on a car to get it to run
Hard to say since getting a car running can be easy, but making it reliable is another. I'd say in order to make it reliable you may spend close to a grand in parts. I always replace the belts, rollers, water pump, front seals, collars, oil cooler seals, vacuum lines, and coolant hoses before considering driving it anywhere. I hope that helps!
edredas yes that helped a lot. But I have a 84’ 944 and it’s not ruining i would like to know if it’s worth the money to fix
How much does it cost to have you do a project like this?
Anywhere from $10-15K. Thanks!
If you remember me, I'm the guy near Buffalo NY with a 1984 944 that won't start... still... I've found a few wires behind the relay and fuse panels that aren't connected, any idea where they might go? the first is a black/red wire with a bare connector, the next is a 2 wire plug with round holes for the connector one wire is bright greensand the 2nd is bright green with black stripe... there are also 2 wires that have clear long rectangular plastic plug covers, one is white/black stripe and thin, the other has the same type of clear plug end, I cant remember the color of that one... I don't know what else to do to get this thing started.... please help
Hi, there are a lot of random wires back there that don't plug into anything unless you have optional equipment. For instance if you don't have the rear wiper the wires will just be back there not connected to anything. That said, what have you checked so far? I would start with the basics. Jump the DME relay and then check for tach bounce. Afterwards check the sensors and fuel pump. I hope that helps!
when you got a sleave installed on the block did you use stock pistons? or did you use aftermarket pistons that work for both alusil and the steel sleave? hope you have time to respond i love your channel!
I used the original pistons for this engine. The stock pistons have an iron coating to prevent the silicone in the alusil block from wearing the piston skirts but will work just fine with a steel sleeve. So while you can put just about any piston in a sleeved engine, you need a ferro coated piston in an alusil block. Thanks!
I wonder if I can make my engine look that immaculate with a can of gold paint to simulate the plating. :D
I have done it before and it works to some degree. I did it just to see how it would hold up compared to the plating. However in person the plating has an iridescent look to it with reds and greens. That can be simulated with some colored stain and then clear coated, but if you're going to go to all the trouble, the plating is not that expensive. You can get all the bolts and every part plated for about $150 or so and its a lot less work. I hope that helps!
@@edredas Thanks, I actually have some experience with painting to simulate plating, such as how I did so with metallic green paint+ misted on gold paint on parts of a Porsche 914. It looked pretty good. But if you say that plating everything is only about $150, I think that's a better deal. :)
I had a bunch of stuff plated for my '87 924S and it wasn't very expensive, even where I am in California. I bet it's cheaper everywhere else.
That sounds great. Unfortunately I'm not doing a whole engine rebuild. I just don't like my engine looking like rubbish.
@@Vwp914 I didn't rebuild mine either. I just took what came off as part of other work, and since it was off, I cleaned it up as best I could. In the case of stuff that was plated, it was easy to get it re-plated. The thing with painted-to-look plated stuff is that it'll chip and wear like a painted part, which will then look pretty cheesy in short order.
Did this ever get finished?
Should have a new video uploaded on it soon!
@@edredas great! I know how much work it is to edit these videos and do the actual work too.
Yeah it can be a headache. I've got two full time guys and we are overloaded with work and so I don't have time to edit much these days. Not to mention that I had a glitch with my computer for a while that has been really slowing me down. For whatever reason my editing software wasn't recognizing my files. I finally had to install a fresh copy of windows and that seems to have resolved it. So I hope to get caught up on some videos soon! That said, the car is mostly finished and I'm already showing teasers of it on facebook and on Pateron... so hopefully it won't be too long! Thanks!
@@edredas Awesome. You are the reason I started seriously thinking about a 944. I ended up getting a 968 but your videos have been invaluable.
22nd view. Wow
un gran trabajo👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 yo tambien restaure mi 944 fase 1
ua-cam.com/video/UjsjOfxIl-E/v-deo.html