In search of perfect audio: As regular viewers will know I've been trying various methods to improve the audio for some time. Now I'm using the Audio Technica omni directional condenser mic, then processing the audio through a compressor during recording (real time) and running the audio through another processor/filter during post production/editing to pick out/accent the voice and remove background noise (hum, aircon, mic hiss etc) and I actually think I finally got it right! So what do you guys think of the audio now? Better and Clearer?
I was watching some of your older videos and thought thank goodness the sound quality has improved on new vids. I was quite surprised how much better it is now.
I'm totally with you on the conclusion. Know where to stop. Yes, it's fixable by replacing a dozen or so devices on the board, but it's also fixable by spending 60€ on Amazon - this repair would just not be viable. I'd do it if it were a real vintage device that could not be replaced easily. Thanks for making such great content, keep it up!
A good 800w PSU isn't 60 euros, that's probably why it failed, they put bad components. Also, the mosfets blew, that's when you stop. Mosfets are the most expensive part in that thing probably. I just trashed my UPS because of a $10 mosfet *4 A new 1500VA UPS is $120 Not worth.
I agree with you about when to stop, but it is an instructional video and would be good to see how you handle SMD's and follow it through even if it is to a bitter end. Time is the issue here not the cost of the components. Your instructional comments and diagrams are first class. Keep up the good work.
For a PSU of that quality, fixing it is only educational, it would never be viable to begin with. I wouldn't trust it on my computer, well I wouldn't put such a simple PSU on my computer, it doesn't seem to have a good protection, it should have disarmed before that bridge rectifier blew, that says to me it was running shorted for several seconds. That's how you damage hard drives, with a floating voltage coming from a faulty PSU.
I have been enjoying your videos for a couple of months now without commenting, but you have inspired me to have a look inside my attic at a few old PCs and I found six. I have only open edup two of them but one is a gem. It is running windows 95!. Just by coincidence I was looking at the power supply for the second PC today. It was running as well but is a PC thiat I built in 2004. Now this is before I watched your video today. I opened the power supply and found seven bad capacitors. I decided to quit working on that power supply. It was only a 300 watt and not vintage really. I have been dabeling in electronics since the 60's and knowing when to stop is a hard lesson to learn. Thanks for sharing your videos with us.
This was a good video, your process is spot on. Definitely would not bother repairing that it would take hours and an ATX power supply isn't worth much, easy to find a replacement. If this was a $4,000 amplifier it would be worth spending some time repairing it.
1:07:33 - Left most resistor burned. Audio quality is good enough and clear enough. (Non english native speaker.) Regarding repair or scrap, I realized at one point in video, that this device will not be fixed in this video. 1:10:00 - But, its not just about having "one functional power supply" at the end. Its about journey, discoveries, analyzing... we are lucky that this channel is not "how to replace hdmi connector" tbh... Who knows what we will see/find until the end... and then u have nice library on youtube... as someone said, this video can be helpful to fix another quite a lot expensive power supply... When I have case like this, I accept I will not be able to fix it today, but then I split it and I work on it lets say 4 days 30min per day, instead working at once 2hrs unpleasantly. "When you are tired, learn to rest, not quit."
I noticed that the manufacturer seems to have decided not to populate the input MOV (empty spot near the X & Y capacitors). Maybe a lightning strike sent a big voltage surge from the power company into the PSU and the lack of protection allowed it to destroy everything. Yet another reason not to buy cheapo equipment. Good stuff, Richard. Thanks!
Im so impressed, the way you go around these electronics for me is akin to a mage going around magic. Its amazing the amount of skill and knowledge you have in this subject! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thankfully in most cases... The expensive fets and other semiconductors usually protect the fuse. 😂 That's my experience more often than not in my lab. The more hard to get and expensive the component... The more likely it blows before the fuse 😂
For an 800W supply, it seems a little low on component count. I've seen 550W supplies like a brick with barely any space for airflow around the components. You made the right call to scrap it. The time and effort involved would be much more than the thing is worth.
Thank you. That was educational and entertaining. Replacing all the smd semiconductors is not worth your time, in my opinion, and who would trust the ones you haven't replaced? Time sink, junk it
Really good video Rich :) . As far as it goes, I reckon you did enough to say that it really wouldnt be worth your time to do a full repair. You'd be there forever ! lol. :)
Thank you! I work in the morning and it is late...,my wife is watching a film and I have watched your video as the best entertainment :) Lots of good tips, thanks! I also have two questions: 1. You mentioned that the transformer looked not big enough for 800W ATX PSU. Can you comment on that? 2. What is your forensic analysis, where the issue might have started - what failed first?
Great video! It became obvious towards the end that it was not worth firing the 'parts canon' at it. It's a low quality PSU and not worth speding more time on. If it was, for example, a £200+ PSU then it may be worth investigating further. Personally, I'd likely pull the good parts from it (either for repairs or projects) and scrap the rest. Otherwise I'd just label it 'parts only' and put the whole thing in the parts bin!
Not worth it unless it's the last ATX power supply on earth. This looks like a bargain-basement unit worth perhaps €50 at the very most. Working or not, I would not trust my systems with such things. I realize you're working on this for content purposes and there it has value, but I think you've extracted all there is. You could order the parts at minimal cost, but when you factor in the hours it will take to get this back into shape, it's probably time to put it in the ground. Good video in any case.
I did three sirtec bronze with similar fault, just for fun. They had the same pwm ic cm6805 500w units. By some luck i managed to find a schematic for them. It was from another brand but same board. There are some zenner diodes, 2x15-16v, the rest of them are 1n4148. I replaced almost everything around pwm ic, including pfc mosfet and bulk capacitors because they read open. There was some arching/high voltage discharge over the back of the board where pwm ic is. I see yours has some signs that it also had high voltage discharge, probably bulk cap is gone also. Cost of repair went over cost of 10year old 500w psu's, but it was a fun challenge.
Happy New Year to everyone! Very interesting and informative video as always. This PSU is not worth to be repaired except if you would like to show that the boasted rate of 800W is completely false...this could be and interesting measurement to perform and to continue the adventure..Regards from Italy.
I think you made the right decision stopping when you did. You could have replaced all those resistors and diodes but the time spend doing it would have made it an expensive job, I imagine.
Very good tutorial! In case it is a vintage 40yrs old rare device I would go on. Or if it is a 200€ hiend PSU...maybe. But this is obviosly a cheapo stuff. But super good for showing us how to do it! Thank you! I have 2 PSUs with similar symptoms. Going to check and if the damage gone as far as yours I will just take out good parts and scrap it...But I admire your fault finding ability!!! 👍
I toss PSUs when they're 5 years old. I don't care if they still work. I get rid of them before they don't work. PSUs are like loaves of bread. They go stale and get moldy with age.
Very well presented video. The only problem is that I went left when you made your first right turn and lost you. I think your advice was spot on. That is probably why I buy ATX PSUs with a ten-year guarantee. This is an excellent reason to purchase surge protectors. Say, mate, I've got a toaster that doesn't toast. Could you fix it for me?
Agreed! Give up on that one Richard! Good walk through none the less. Is there a useful circuit you could use with the working components on the board? Kinda Frankenstein reworking for something else 🤔
If it was only a few components I could see repairing it but with that many components damaged factored with the potential age of the unit one has to draw the line somewhere.
With solid state you can use heat it and beat it. That's where you put the iron on the joint then real quick slap the board on the edge of your workbench. All the molten solder will come flying out of the joint. Works great!
Enjoyed watching this, many thanks. I am interested to know how you solder so effortlessly. What type of solder do you use and what temperature do you set your iron to?
48:08 yes it is correct in usa. This company is from usa, and people there, spell Solder without L and with L, depending of location. I remember one video from Louis Rossmann (usa), who was laught about solder with L. He was saying that for him, saying it with L is stupid. The same situation you have with words for exapmple: Burned (usa) and Burnt (uk), or Color (usa) and Colour (uk), or Analyze (usa) and Analyse (uk), many other words.
Thank you or the explanation, I've *learnt* something there, I thought it was some dyslexic Chinese who put 'Soder Wick' on it but I never *laughed* about it. See what I did there 😁😁😁
I really like these smps repairs , even when its not always a success. Would have like to see if it really is still repairable , but i understand if its not really worth it , with all the faults on this one.
Hi, Super repair video🤗👍👍 of the non (on) mars psu🤣. Who developed this terrible schematic 39:57 😵💫 Ohh, you have a litten fault. 59:20 the resitor has ,,Red(2),yellow(4),silver(x0.01),braun(1%). You said (to say...sayed ..??,, no ....ohh my english is 😱) . You said,, yellow is 7 😱😵💫 , the resitor value ist 0.24 ohm not 0.27 ohm,,,,, sorry ive not be a know it all. Your videos impressed me every time , mhhhh 😍long long time ago is it when i worked for money in elektronik🥰.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair yellow is 4 not 7 ,,,,,, yeah, at the E12 ,, this evil😵💫 resitor is E24. Oh i forgot, i by next time a polarisation filter or lamp,for better viewing under the mikroscope. Eventuelly ist a polarisation lamp or filter intersting for you. Dave from eevblog take a part of these from a lcd screen.
Knowing when to quit, excellent! I am curious, if you changed all the devices in this area what is the chances there is again another area with similar issues? Thanks for another great video!
Thanks for your excellent videos Rich ! I seem to remember Sorin at Electronics repair school faced with a similar problem on a TV - said something like "PFC simply increases the efficiency of the power consumption and bypassed the circuit and the TV worked fine - So could you please explain the purpose of the circuit ? Also since we have a pretty big power supply here and it is scrap anyway - would it be possible to bypass the PFC - and how would it perform if so ? - Thanks again - I love your vids 😎
Yeah I saw Sorin do that on a TV but it's not simple on these - as the PFC and PWM controller are both parts of the same IC. Sure you could remove the PFC mosfet but I seem to recall when I tried this on another similar device (integrated PWM/PFC controller) it would not run because it detected the PFC wasn't working. Also in this case it is a moot point as all the damage appears to be on the drive to the main switching transistors for the PSU, not the PFC.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair - " in this case it is a moot point as all the damage appears to be on the drive to the main switching transistors for the PSU, not the PFC." - Thanks for your reply mate - clearly I need to watch the Vid again as I missed that ! - I will do so later - thanks.
Disabling the PFC can also have consequences on the power supply’s capabilities. The DC-link voltage will drop from ~400V to 320V or 160V changing operating point of the PWM circuit and limiting the available power. Above that the DC-link ripple will be much higher as the capacitor is too small for simple bridge rectified mains voltage.
I think it depends on what the customer would want to do with it, give them the price for repair, if rhey want to go ahead then do it. looks a lot of work for a psu that you could probably pick a new one up for around £40 to £60?? Great instructional vidwo as usual rich, love it. By the way can you tell me where would be the best place and quality flux in syringes i could get? thanks mate. well done again. keep up the great work! 👌
Great Video once again, but those PSU's (Mars/Tacens is a generic low cost brand) cost about 35€ or thereabouts brand new, or they used to. So repairing such a PSU is from the economic standpoint not very good. But doing it just for the fun is actually very cool.
1:00 I think that is a fuse resister? You have to be careful the replacement will not cause a fire. Definitely a spare parts walk-away job, however a good lesson on SMPS repair. You may find one day you need to repair an SMPS circuit, on board an expensive industrial circuit costing $4000.
Almost certainly not 800 watt. Agreed, know when to stop, unless you intend a 100% refurb, changing the usual fatigued output caps and viewing waveform changes on HV circuitry at assorted loads while checking on thermal cam.
At work we buy the genuine Chemtronics braid and I can confirm it also says "soder wick", and there is more than one package design (silver / golden letters, just like the ones in the video)
I would say enough is enough Richard :) but if you really have nothing else to repair :) then replace one component at a time to see if you can get it working :) but whatever you think to do :) please video it and post it lol :) I'd watch it :)
I have an Old Peavy Bass amp and all the parts have old numbers from Peavey on them. What do I do to find the parts? It is 1970's vintage... numbers are no where I can find on internet. I have found the schematic for the amp so can figure out what is what but ordering parts is a real question for me.
On something as readily available as a PSU, I wouldn't put that much into fixing it.. If you have some kind of rare board from a specific application, then it's worth more effort.. The parts really aren't that expensive, but the time you gotta consider.. do you have something better to do? I had a Coolermaster Masterwatt 750 that died on me, ordered another power supply, and then the old one mysteriously works again after I took it apart.. though I'm noticing something funny, the 5VSB rail drops to about 3.8V when it's powered on regardless of load, it seems to run a bunch of hard drives just fine, all the other rails are steady.. I have an ATX power supply tester on order
Heya oh yeah that 1 is "scrap" I mean to many components damage still I would like to see a total repair for the learning experience for my self, smd components I have never worked on myself like to see that
Those are cheap "800W" power supplies maybe around 30-50e or even cheaper from aliexpress/alibaba what is maybe origin of those. I think PCWorld tested some of those in intel psu lab and they failed around 4-500W psu tests.
That's why we usually throw those away when they fail. The design is so tight that when it fails, a lot goes together. The mosfets are probably the most expensive parts either way. And in no way that's a 800W PSU, I wouldn't force it on more than a 400W load.
Yet another lesson learned... When there is fire in the forest, it does not take only one tree. This PSU is really beyond repair. It is questionable to use it even for spare parts. You don't know how many components got burned.
Well that's an interesting one and very dead. I wouldn't proceed but it might make an interesting video for a boring Sunday afternoon. Watch out for shorts in the windings of the switching transformer.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I'm sure you could fix it. You just can't fix it economically for what the unit is worth. No one can. That's the reality of modern mass produced electronics.
PC & Server PSUs are expendable items, except in Mr. Carlson’s Lab vintage gear (I leave it to him). I tried to fix a couple SWPSs, and gave up too (poof magic smoke), and won’t ever try again .. they’re nearly impossible to fix, and not worth the effort.
When metal heats up it increases in resistance. The filament in an incandescent bulb is glowing hot metal. A bulb in series with a load can't short out. The bulb acts like a Positive Temperature Coefficient resistor and limits the current. Plus you can see the bulb light up when current draw is excessive. So it acts like an indicator too. Bulb limiting is a neat hack.
bonjour de la cote d'azur meilleurs voeux 2023 je vous suis depuis longtemps vidéos au top 👍👍👍mais cette vidéo je n'ai pas accès au sous titres cela vient-il de youtube ou de vous ? merci d'avance pour votre réponse
Resp Sir! Nice Vedio Sir. Optiplex Dell 6Pin SMPS DC 12 Directed Sir and Series Lamp was 5times On Off, after DC Directed SB OK Sir A 12V Bulb Conected Glowing and Off. Where the Problem Sir. Please Advise Sir. -- ChinnaRao Paderu Visakhapatnam Andhrapradesh
Good analyses. Is that a solder bridge (cap to diode 1:02:51)? Blame the English early settlers (to the USA) for soder (originally French souder). Blame the Latinas (ho, ho) for adding l and dropping u from the French. Americans seem content with soder (which worryingly sounds like sodder).
It's not worth it when the high voltage got in that deep. It looks like 20 or more components need to be replaced and then you have to wonder how many other components took damage, but haven't completely failed, but will fail shortly after you use the PSU.
Yeah it could be a copy, It's €26 on AliExpress for a pack of 10 - I like the size 4 SW18045 - regardless of whether it is a copy or not, it works really well as you saw in the video and I highly recommend it www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004398767716.html?af=ler2002
Bill Bloggs raped our young Gladys behind Violet's garden wall black b....... rape our young girls but vicars go without take you pick of the two version I was taught when I took my City and Guilds
Come on Dicky, if you're going to do it, do it right at least, I'm sure those components can be obtained for below the price of the unit from new, plus it's supposed to be an instructional video series so show us some methods to do the repair right IMO 👍🏻
NAhh it is just a slip of the tongue - red violet silver is 0.27, I do actually know the resistor colour code. As I was taught courtesy of the UK government at a skill center in the early '80s when I took my City & Guilds in TV Radio and Electronics Repair, Black B....... Rape Our Young Girls But Vicars Go Without
@@LearnElectronicsRepair we learned it differently in the US. The ending is But Violet Gives Willingly. The beginning is the same though. That Violet is a real loose girl.
Yep, not worth fixing - use for parts only. Just shows how careful you need to be sometimes in visually checking the components - might have saved some time...
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
In search of perfect audio: As regular viewers will know I've been trying various methods to improve the audio for some time. Now I'm using the Audio Technica omni directional condenser mic, then processing the audio through a compressor during recording (real time) and running the audio through another processor/filter during post production/editing to pick out/accent the voice and remove background noise (hum, aircon, mic hiss etc) and I actually think I finally got it right! So what do you guys think of the audio now? Better and Clearer?
My ears are very low-res but it all sounds good to me. 👍
The sound clearly good ... because , idont now what you ever said 🤣🤣.....
No complains here Richard, the audio was fine. As you said - you have to learn when to stop 😀
@@marcellipovsky8222 Yeah very true - for now I am happy with the audio 🙂
I was watching some of your older videos and thought thank goodness the sound quality has improved on new vids. I was quite surprised how much better it is now.
Nope. You gave this your best shot. The odds are firmly against you. The diagnostic routine was perfect. A good learning video. Thanks.
I'm totally with you on the conclusion. Know where to stop. Yes, it's fixable by replacing a dozen or so devices on the board, but it's also fixable by spending 60€ on Amazon - this repair would just not be viable. I'd do it if it were a real vintage device that could not be replaced easily.
Thanks for making such great content, keep it up!
A good 800w PSU isn't 60 euros, that's probably why it failed, they put bad components.
Also, the mosfets blew, that's when you stop. Mosfets are the most expensive part in that thing probably.
I just trashed my UPS because of a $10 mosfet *4
A new 1500VA UPS is $120
Not worth.
Great lesson. The experience that tells you enough is enough is priceless. Definitely right call to scrap it for parts.
I agree with you about when to stop, but it is an instructional video and would be good to see how you handle SMD's and follow it through even if it is to a bitter end. Time is the issue here not the cost of the components. Your instructional comments and diagrams are first class. Keep up the good work.
For a PSU of that quality, fixing it is only educational, it would never be viable to begin with.
I wouldn't trust it on my computer, well I wouldn't put such a simple PSU on my computer, it doesn't seem to have a good protection, it should have disarmed before that bridge rectifier blew, that says to me it was running shorted for several seconds.
That's how you damage hard drives, with a floating voltage coming from a faulty PSU.
I have been enjoying your videos for a couple of months now without commenting, but you have inspired me to have a look inside my attic at a few old PCs and I found six. I have only open edup two of them but one is a gem. It is running windows 95!. Just by coincidence I was looking at the power supply for the second PC today. It was running as well but is a PC thiat I built in 2004. Now this is before I watched your video today. I opened the power supply and found seven bad capacitors. I decided to quit working on that power supply. It was only a 300 watt and not vintage really. I have been dabeling in electronics since the 60's and knowing when to stop is a hard lesson to learn. Thanks for sharing your videos with us.
This was a good video, your process is spot on. Definitely would not bother repairing that it would take hours and an ATX power supply isn't worth much, easy to find a replacement. If this was a $4,000 amplifier it would be worth spending some time repairing it.
1:07:33 - Left most resistor burned. Audio quality is good enough and clear enough. (Non english native speaker.)
Regarding repair or scrap, I realized at one point in video, that this device will not be fixed in this video.
1:10:00 - But, its not just about having "one functional power supply" at the end. Its about journey, discoveries, analyzing... we are lucky that this channel is not "how to replace hdmi connector" tbh...
Who knows what we will see/find until the end... and then u have nice library on youtube... as someone said, this video can be helpful to fix another quite a lot expensive power supply...
When I have case like this, I accept I will not be able to fix it today, but then I split it and I work on it lets say 4 days 30min per day, instead working at once 2hrs unpleasantly.
"When you are tired, learn to rest, not quit."
I noticed that the manufacturer seems to have decided not to populate the input MOV (empty spot near the X & Y capacitors). Maybe a lightning strike sent a big voltage surge from the power company into the PSU and the lack of protection allowed it to destroy everything. Yet another reason not to buy cheapo equipment. Good stuff, Richard. Thanks!
This marks of arcing explain why so much got damaged and is a clear sign to rethink the repair effort.
Im so impressed, the way you go around these electronics for me is akin to a mage going around magic. Its amazing the amount of skill and knowledge you have in this subject! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Great video 😊 interesting to see what happens when you get a component failure and the damage it sometimes causes 👍
Would like to see it repaired but totally understand if you don't, great video as always.
You have convinced me that this is beyond practical time effort value repair,and provided a lesson in when to abandon this repair
I agree. This one's done. Hang on to it for donor parts that are easily confirmed to be good.
Hi at 33:15 you don't have 220v; but 220*sqrt2=311V. Othervise thanks for some good and instructive videos. Happy New Year
Thankfully in most cases... The expensive fets and other semiconductors usually protect the fuse. 😂
That's my experience more often than not in my lab. The more hard to get and expensive the component... The more likely it blows before the fuse 😂
For an 800W supply, it seems a little low on component count. I've seen 550W supplies like a brick with barely any space for airflow around the components.
You made the right call to scrap it. The time and effort involved would be much more than the thing is worth.
Thank you. That was educational and entertaining. Replacing all the smd semiconductors is not worth your time, in my opinion, and who would trust the ones you haven't replaced? Time sink, junk it
This was great to watch. I really enjoy the long videos. Thanks.
Really good video Rich :) . As far as it goes, I reckon you did enough to say that it really wouldnt be worth your time to do a full repair. You'd be there forever ! lol.
:)
Mate you have the best electronics channel for interested novices by a country mile. Keep up the good work.
Thank you! I work in the morning and it is late...,my wife is watching a film and I have watched your video as the best entertainment :) Lots of good tips, thanks!
I also have two questions:
1. You mentioned that the transformer looked not big enough for 800W ATX PSU. Can you comment on that?
2. What is your forensic analysis, where the issue might have started - what failed first?
With appreciation!
Thank you so much!
Great video! It became obvious towards the end that it was not worth firing the 'parts canon' at it. It's a low quality PSU and not worth speding more time on. If it was, for example, a £200+ PSU then it may be worth investigating further. Personally, I'd likely pull the good parts from it (either for repairs or projects) and scrap the rest. Otherwise I'd just label it 'parts only' and put the whole thing in the parts bin!
Glad you thought it was worthwhile doing. I can say that it was certainly worthwhile watching you doing it.
It was educational 🤓👍 i enjoyed watching the process but i agree that you have to know when to call time of death on a repair attempt
Not worth it unless it's the last ATX power supply on earth. This looks like a bargain-basement unit worth perhaps €50 at the very most. Working or not, I would not trust my systems with such things.
I realize you're working on this for content purposes and there it has value, but I think you've extracted all there is. You could order the parts at minimal cost, but when you factor in the hours it will take to get this back into shape, it's probably time to put it in the ground. Good video in any case.
it is 800 watts tho... It could power an rtx 4090 on paper.
I did three sirtec bronze with similar fault, just for fun. They had the same pwm ic cm6805 500w units. By some luck i managed to find a schematic for them. It was from another brand but same board. There are some zenner diodes, 2x15-16v, the rest of them are 1n4148. I replaced almost everything around pwm ic, including pfc mosfet and bulk capacitors because they read open. There was some arching/high voltage discharge over the back of the board where pwm ic is. I see yours has some signs that it also had high voltage discharge, probably bulk cap is gone also. Cost of repair went over cost of 10year old 500w psu's, but it was a fun challenge.
Happy New Year to everyone! Very interesting and informative video as always. This PSU is not worth to be repaired except if you would like to show that the boasted rate of 800W is completely false...this could be and interesting measurement to perform and to continue the adventure..Regards from Italy.
Great patience you have and excellent knowledge, too. I enjoy the instructional streams. Thanks
I think you made the right decision stopping when you did. You could have replaced all those resistors and diodes but the time spend doing it would have made it an expensive job, I imagine.
Very good tutorial! In case it is a vintage 40yrs old rare device I would go on. Or if it is a 200€ hiend PSU...maybe. But this is obviosly a cheapo stuff. But super good for showing us how to do it! Thank you! I have 2 PSUs with similar symptoms. Going to check and if the damage gone as far as yours I will just take out good parts and scrap it...But I admire your fault finding ability!!! 👍
I toss PSUs when they're 5 years old. I don't care if they still work. I get rid of them before they don't work. PSUs are like loaves of bread. They go stale and get moldy with age.
Agree. This is a unit for future spare parts.
Very well presented video. The only problem is that I went left when you made your first right turn and lost you. I think your advice was spot on. That is probably why I buy ATX PSUs with a ten-year guarantee. This is an excellent reason to purchase surge protectors. Say, mate, I've got a toaster that doesn't toast. Could you fix it for me?
Agreed!
Give up on that one Richard!
Good walk through none the less.
Is there a useful circuit you could use with the working components on the board? Kinda Frankenstein reworking for something else 🤔
If it was only a few components I could see repairing it but with that many components damaged factored with the potential age of the unit one has to draw the line somewhere.
And also factor in I have serious doubts this actually is an 800W PSU 😉
@@LearnElectronicsRepair she was putting out 800 W at least right before she blew.
I use a solder sucker and it works great. I do have solder wick too.
With solid state you can use heat it and beat it. That's where you put the iron on the joint then real quick slap the board on the edge of your workbench. All the molten solder will come flying out of the joint. Works great!
5:52 That fuse is a Apple fuse, everthing burns up or gets destroyed, but the fuse stays intact. A easter egg that they put inside.
I think we learnt enough on that power supply , keep it for spare parts and move on.
Enjoyed watching this, many thanks. I am interested to know how you solder so effortlessly. What type of solder do you use and what temperature do you set your iron to?
48:08 yes it is correct in usa. This company is from usa, and people there, spell Solder without L and with L, depending of location.
I remember one video from Louis Rossmann (usa), who was laught about solder with L. He was saying that for him, saying it with L is stupid.
The same situation you have with words for exapmple: Burned (usa) and Burnt (uk), or Color (usa) and Colour (uk), or Analyze (usa) and Analyse (uk), many other words.
Thank you or the explanation, I've *learnt* something there, I thought it was some dyslexic Chinese who put 'Soder Wick' on it but I never *laughed* about it.
See what I did there 😁😁😁
Agreed- not worth the headache of fixing. LOL
Love the explanations and diagrams
I really like these smps repairs , even when its not always a success. Would have like to see if it really is still repairable , but i understand if its not really worth it , with all the faults on this one.
Hi,
Super repair video🤗👍👍 of the non (on) mars psu🤣.
Who developed this terrible schematic 39:57 😵💫
Ohh, you have a litten fault. 59:20 the resitor has ,,Red(2),yellow(4),silver(x0.01),braun(1%).
You said (to say...sayed ..??,, no ....ohh my english is 😱) .
You said,, yellow is 7 😱😵💫 , the resitor value ist 0.24 ohm not 0.27 ohm,,,,, sorry ive not be a know it all.
Your videos impressed me every time , mhhhh 😍long long time ago is it when i worked for money in elektronik🥰.
Did I? - that was just a slip of the tongue, mostly because red yellow silver 0.27 ohm would be a standard value
@@LearnElectronicsRepair yellow is 4 not 7 ,,,,,, yeah, at the E12 ,, this evil😵💫 resitor is E24. Oh i forgot, i by next time a polarisation filter or lamp,for better viewing under the mikroscope. Eventuelly ist a polarisation lamp or filter intersting for you. Dave from eevblog take a part of these from a lcd screen.
Damn your voice every time when i turn on video haii guysss so relax me haha :) pure enjoy watching your videos !
0.24 Ohms!
I agree on leaving it alone
Knowing when to quit, excellent! I am curious, if you changed all the devices in this area what is the chances there is again another area with similar issues? Thanks for another great video!
Thanks for your excellent videos Rich ! I seem to remember Sorin at Electronics repair school faced with a similar problem on a TV - said something like "PFC simply increases the efficiency of the power consumption and bypassed the circuit and the TV worked fine - So could you please explain the purpose of the circuit ? Also since we have a pretty big power supply here and it is scrap anyway - would it be possible to bypass the PFC - and how would it perform if so ? - Thanks again - I love your vids 😎
Yeah I saw Sorin do that on a TV but it's not simple on these - as the PFC and PWM controller are both parts of the same IC. Sure you could remove the PFC mosfet but I seem to recall when I tried this on another similar device (integrated PWM/PFC controller) it would not run because it detected the PFC wasn't working. Also in this case it is a moot point as all the damage appears to be on the drive to the main switching transistors for the PSU, not the PFC.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair - " in this case it is a moot point as all the damage appears to be on the drive to the main switching transistors for the PSU, not the PFC." - Thanks for your reply mate - clearly I need to watch the Vid again as I missed that ! - I will do so later - thanks.
Disabling the PFC can also have consequences on the power supply’s capabilities.
The DC-link voltage will drop from ~400V to 320V or 160V changing operating point of the PWM circuit and limiting the available power.
Above that the DC-link ripple will be much higher as the capacitor is too small for simple bridge rectified mains voltage.
I think it depends on what the customer would want to do with it, give them the price for repair, if rhey want to go ahead then do it. looks a lot of work for a psu that you could probably pick a new one up for around £40 to £60?? Great instructional vidwo as usual rich, love it. By the way can you tell me where would be the best place and quality flux in syringes i could get? thanks mate. well done again. keep up the great work! 👌
I got some very nice but fake Amtech flux on Amazon a year or so back.. It's obviously fake but it's good stuff., nice and sticky
Great Video once again, but those PSU's (Mars/Tacens is a generic low cost brand) cost about 35€ or thereabouts brand new, or they used to. So repairing such a PSU is from the economic standpoint not very good. But doing it just for the fun is actually very cool.
If it was just the bridge rectifier and the mosfet then it'd be a win. But once you're into the SMD parts forget about it.
1:00 I think that is a fuse resister? You have to be careful the replacement will not cause a fire. Definitely a spare parts walk-away job, however a good lesson on SMPS repair. You may find one day you need to repair an SMPS circuit, on board an expensive industrial circuit costing $4000.
My favourite electrician.
Great work 👌
The cheap component testers have a contact pad for testing tiny smd components
Very very handy
I don't work on SMD rubbish so not handy for me.
Almost certainly not 800 watt. Agreed, know when to stop, unless you intend a 100% refurb, changing the usual fatigued output caps and viewing waveform changes on HV circuitry at assorted loads while checking on thermal cam.
Yeah 800 W right before it lets out the blue flash. Realistically that's a 300 W continuous PSU at best. That transformer in it was so small.
At work we buy the genuine Chemtronics braid and I can confirm it also says "soder wick", and there is more than one package design (silver / golden letters, just like the ones in the video)
That's a $50 PSU at best. Probably cheaper on sale. So not worth SMD rework. 800 Watts in someone's dreams. It took a big hit.
BER is a great lesson in itself, why fix something so knackered when all you'll do is get to the next stage of "well what else has failed?"?!
She ain’t got no more power, captain.
Recycle what you can mate 🤙🏼🇦🇺
I would say enough is enough Richard :) but if you really have nothing else to repair :) then replace one component at a time to see if you can get it working :) but whatever you think to do :) please video it and post it lol :) I'd watch it :)
I have an Old Peavy Bass amp and all the parts have old numbers from Peavey on them. What do I do to find the parts? It is 1970's vintage... numbers are no where I can find on internet. I have found the schematic for the amp so can figure out what is what but ordering parts is a real question for me.
how much did you charge for the work you did?
On something as readily available as a PSU, I wouldn't put that much into fixing it.. If you have some kind of rare board from a specific application, then it's worth more effort.. The parts really aren't that expensive, but the time you gotta consider.. do you have something better to do?
I had a Coolermaster Masterwatt 750 that died on me, ordered another power supply, and then the old one mysteriously works again after I took it apart.. though I'm noticing something funny, the 5VSB rail drops to about 3.8V when it's powered on regardless of load, it seems to run a bunch of hard drives just fine, all the other rails are steady.. I have an ATX power supply tester on order
Heya oh yeah that 1 is "scrap" I mean to many components damage still I would like to see a total repair for the learning experience for my self, smd components I have never worked on myself like to see that
the diode 10r pairs are the gate drive the 10r is for a slower turn of and the diode is for fast turn off.
That's so funny Richard, 48:12 they've spelled it the same as SOME IDIOT taught people in the USA to SAY it LOL
Those are cheap "800W" power supplies maybe around 30-50e or even cheaper from aliexpress/alibaba what is maybe origin of those. I think PCWorld tested some of those in intel psu lab and they failed around 4-500W psu tests.
That's why we usually throw those away when they fail.
The design is so tight that when it fails, a lot goes together.
The mosfets are probably the most expensive parts either way.
And in no way that's a 800W PSU, I wouldn't force it on more than a 400W load.
Yet another lesson learned... When there is fire in the forest, it does not take only one tree.
This PSU is really beyond repair. It is questionable to use it even for spare parts. You don't know how many components got burned.
Well that's an interesting one and very dead. I wouldn't proceed but it might make an interesting video for a boring Sunday afternoon. Watch out for shorts in the windings of the switching transformer.
Do you have good luck getting quality semiconductors off of AliExpress?
Know when to hold them .. know when to fold them
Hi all - I get Bank exchange Charges for using Aliexpress on top of my bill, Do you?
why have you asked this question twice?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair 1 Direct to you. 2 a general comment to everyone to comment, hence the - Hi all.
It doesn’t worth the repair BUT it would be interesting to see how much damage is done…. Good job!
48.08 I always thought when ppl from the USA said soder they were referring to someone who went around sodding people. 🤣
Do you charge customers for quoting/fault finding if not able to repair?
No - I offer a no fix no fee service. Why should I? It's not the customers fault if I can't fix it.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I'm sure you could fix it. You just can't fix it economically for what the unit is worth. No one can. That's the reality of modern mass produced electronics.
Pubs open,leave the board, it's toast 👬🏿🍺🍺🍸
50:02 - What do you call a dog with three legs? Triped! (Tripod)
PC & Server PSUs are expendable items, except in Mr. Carlson’s Lab vintage gear (I leave it to him). I tried to fix a couple SWPSs, and gave up too (poof magic smoke), and won’t ever try again .. they’re nearly impossible to fix, and not worth the effort.
It work
Straight into the bin😊
10A fuse socket blown if no electricity
When it's a very specific PSU board in a nice/expensive bit of kit then I keep working. Commodity gets 20-30 mins tops.
Can you explain the next time what the logic of the light bulb is?
When metal heats up it increases in resistance. The filament in an incandescent bulb is glowing hot metal. A bulb in series with a load can't short out. The bulb acts like a Positive Temperature Coefficient resistor and limits the current. Plus you can see the bulb light up when current draw is excessive. So it acts like an indicator too. Bulb limiting is a neat hack.
bonjour de la cote d'azur meilleurs voeux 2023 je vous suis depuis longtemps vidéos au top 👍👍👍mais cette vidéo je n'ai pas accès au sous titres cela vient-il de youtube ou de vous ? merci d'avance pour votre réponse
Resp Sir! Nice Vedio Sir. Optiplex Dell 6Pin SMPS DC 12 Directed Sir and Series Lamp was 5times On Off, after DC Directed SB OK Sir A 12V Bulb Conected Glowing and Off. Where the Problem Sir. Please Advise Sir. -- ChinnaRao Paderu Visakhapatnam Andhrapradesh
Good analyses. Is that a solder bridge (cap to diode 1:02:51)? Blame the English early settlers (to the USA) for soder (originally French souder). Blame the Latinas (ho, ho) for adding l and dropping u from the French. Americans seem content with soder (which worryingly sounds like sodder).
Why didnt the fuse blow ?
Now there is a question.....
Not a lot of people know this, but FUSE is actually short for "fails uncomprehendingly to save electronics".
It's not worth it when the high voltage got in that deep. It looks like 20 or more components need to be replaced and then you have to wonder how many other components took damage, but haven't completely failed, but will fail shortly after you use the PSU.
Good call,you could replace all those faulty components all bar one not found....bang!..all your work and costs waste of time and effort.
Haven't you seen that do not resuscitate sticker? 😂Let it rest in 'pieces' is my opinion.😪
No this is finished there is so much damaged. Even the chip could be toast. Parts bin Richard.
47:50 Soder-Wick is a brand that do desoldering wicks. One is probably a copy of the real brand.
Yeah it could be a copy, It's €26 on AliExpress for a pack of 10 - I like the size 4 SW18045 - regardless of whether it is a copy or not, it works really well as you saw in the video and I highly recommend it
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004398767716.html?af=ler2002
I agree you could fix it but I don't think it's worth it, if I needed it that would be different. Leave it alone Rich !....cheers.
(B)rown,(R)ichard (O)f (Y)ork (G)ave (B)attle (I)n (V)ain; brown, red, orange, green, blue, indigo (purple) and lastly White , just don't ask why the last doesn't match!!
Bill Bloggs raped our young Gladys behind Violet's garden wall
black b....... rape our young girls but vicars go without
take you pick of the two version I was taught when I took my City and Guilds
Come on Dicky, if you're going to do it, do it right at least, I'm sure those components can be obtained for below the price of the unit from new, plus it's supposed to be an instructional video series so show us some methods to do the repair right IMO 👍🏻
He taught a valuable lesson. Know when to call a job. It's not worth doing $1,000 of labor on a PSU that's worth $30.
i would not bother with it looks like a cheap power supply thanks for the video
resistor "red, yellow silver" 2.7ohms??? you sure?
NAhh it is just a slip of the tongue - red violet silver is 0.27, I do actually know the resistor colour code.
As I was taught courtesy of the UK government at a skill center in the early '80s when I took my City & Guilds in TV Radio and Electronics Repair, Black B....... Rape Our Young Girls But Vicars Go Without
@@LearnElectronicsRepair we learned it differently in the US. The ending is But Violet Gives Willingly. The beginning is the same though. That Violet is a real loose girl.
Yep, not worth fixing - use for parts only. Just shows how careful you need to be sometimes in visually checking the components - might have saved some time...