Thank you for the video! concise, well laid out and super helpful with links and time stamps. I'll definitely be doing some of these upgrades on my 22re Pickup. I opted for the Hella Glass headlights with a harness upgrade and higher wattage Halogens, the heat output helps keep the headlights from freezing over in -30c Northern winters. Looking forward to part 2 of your series! keep up the good work!
Inspiring video. My old 90 4runner 22re needs some love and I'd love to tackle some of these upgrades. Wow that's a clean engine though. Mine gets oil buildup everywhere. Definitely getting that idler adjustment screw first thing, as I've had to tape mine over to stop it from freely spinning. I also run my idle about 200rpm over stock, otherwise it stumbles once it's warm at stops. Looking forward to part two. Thanks for the awesome info.
Yeah, you and me both lol. It's really interesting and sort of counter intuitive, but it definitely improves smoothness and throttle response. I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't test it first hand. Here's the white paper which discusses it in more detail: www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2090447912000883
@@alvenparody Yeah, it seems to make the motor run smoother and make a touch more power yes. I'm running it like you see in the video, but I have pushed the ground strap a little closer to the center electrode (gap of around .040" or so).
@@matexf4c yeah, I have been using the snip setup shown in this video and it's been working the best. I had been totally removing the entire ground strap (as shown in a previous video) and while that does work okay for a while, after 300-500 miles it seems to carbon up too much. Leaving around 1/2 the strap as shown in this video seems to be more reliable longer term.
Good video man. I've been thinking of upgrading my headlights to the glass headlights you showed in this video. How hard is the install on these and do you have to do any cutting to get them to fit?
It's not too bad. The worst part is removing the front grill and having to clean all the rust off the buckets. On mine, I ended up painting the buckets with tractor paint, so that took some additional time. Also the threads for the small screws were messed up a bit, so I ended up switching over to those M4 Torx screws (link to those in the description). So doing all those little touches took some extra time. But otherwise, it's pretty straightforward. The most tricky part that I remember is you kinda have to rebend the attach tabs on the chrome surrounds as I recall. Oh, also drilling out the reflector shield things inside the housings is a bit tricky, because the housings are made from glass. You kinda have to just lightly drill the rivets using like a 1/4 drill and then once you cut away some material on the rivet head, you have to carefully bend the edge up using pliers... be real careful or you could shatter the housing. I might have also had to slightly cut the plastic on the LED's to get them to clock in there correctly, but I don't remember for sure. It's not too horrible of a job though; mainly just a bunch of tiny adjustments in order to get everything to fit in nicely. I noticed now they also have some lenses like mine, but with a round projector style deal in the middle. However, I like just having the totally clear / flat lenses, since it looks pretty much stock. I'll tell you what.. they are super bright. Back when I was 19 or 20, I installed air craft landing lights on my Datsun 510. Those were pretty crazy. These LED lights are just as bright. When paired with the D2 driving lights, it's insanity. It's almost like driving in daylight with those and the high beams on haha. When I'm driving on the highway at night and flip everything on, all the street signs for an 1/8th mile glow super bright... people behind me must be like WTF? It's pretty wild. It's actually so bright I have to cut the driving lights out of the mix using the switch on my dash, otherwise truckers will start flashing me like crazy, even when they are up to 1/2 mile away and clear across the highway 300-400 yards on the other side coming at me if I don't get back to low beams quick enough. The D2 driving lights are like having two small super novas on your bumper.. it's crazy. And the glass lenses with those Fanless LED's are pretty good in their own right. Definitely worth doing the upgrade... plus the LED bulbs only pull 1.8 to 1.9 amps each, whereas normal H4 bulbs were pulling almost 5 amps each according to my measurements here. Definitely a great update when compared to the meek stock lights from Toyota. Sometimes I take the truck out at night, just so I can enjoy turning on all the lights :-)
Ray, Are you active on any of the Toyota forums? As of a few days ago, I have two '86 4Runners in varying states of disrepair. Your videos are incredibly helpful, and will be utilized a lot as I diagnose some things. Would love to be able to pick your brain once in awhile. Something that can make these trucks tough to fix is "DIY" nature of previous owners; I'm having a hard time correcting everything that has been changed to even develop a "correct" baseline to start from.
Hi Dan - I'm not really active on the forums (beyond just googling stuff occasionally and reading posts). But you're always welcome to message me directly; the address is in the 'about' tab of my UA-cam channel.
@@rafaelduenas6465 Don't mess with the ceramic part, nor that little flat top part (the electrode) which pokes out of the very center of the white part. Leave all that untouched as much as you can. When you snip off the ground strap using diagonals, it will kinda pinch the metal and leave a slight sharp burr on there... you wanna get rid of that sharp pointy stuff that is left after cutting, either by using the wire wheel (very carefully) on the bench grinder, or by taking a very small file and very lightly brushing across it. You don't need to go crazy, but just basically smooth off that cut location and round it over slightly so it's more of a rounded nub as opposed to a sharp triangle left over from the diagonals.
Not yet.. I need to sit down and record it. It will happen at some point here. I'm just in the process of selling my house, which is sucking up all my time over here. But I haven't forgotten :-)
Are you referring to the AFM (air flow monitor) which is bolted to the top of the air filter housing lid? This is the one I'm running on my truck out here (from Napa): www.napaonline.com/en/p/NECXTP420055
Hey hey..i followed your direction on removing the fuel up vsv... awesome info...but im now trying to relocate the 2 red vsv's like you did...and im lost!!! Maybe you could touch on that in a future video!...also i see you capped 3 vaccum lines at the throttle body...id like to know where you are pulling vacuum from..thanx for everything you are doing!
This video might be of some interest / help to you: ua-cam.com/video/FdatPPidDM8/v-deo.html - as far as the two VSV's on the fender well there; one is for the AS (air suction) system and the other is for the EGR (exhaust gas re-circulation) system. The AS is pretty straight forward. Its vacuum source is off the upper plenum (you might be able to see the little 90 degree fitting in the middle, which points straight down; the hose runs down and under the plenum and goes over to the AS. From there, it goes to the AS valve itself, which is bolted under the runners. The video above will kinda outline everything. On the EGR, it's a bit more involved on account of there is a vacuum modulator in the mix. Again, that video will help clear things up. The EGR valve operates off vacuum, but also exhaust gas pressure, and the vacuum modulator controls all that (most of all the hoses up on the throttle body relate to that) - if you look closely, there should be small letters stamped on everything, which show which hose goes where (more or less). Once you dig into it, you can kinda wrap your head around it. That video I linked above is actually as a result of me trying to figure it all out myself.. and coloring in those different hoses in the shop manual photo, so I could figure out what in the F is going on. The hose going to the throttle body marked "P" is just the fume purge for the EVAP can, so that's just a direct run. Once you break it all down, it's pretty easy to start moving the VSV's around. I will have a video coming down the road which touches on that actually, but in the meantime if you have any other questions just let me know.
Man this video was awesome! I appreciate you taking your time to record and share this with us. Im curious as to which transmission fluid you use? Ive uses the Amsoil MTF, and currently running a fluid by Driven, all have been GL4 of course. So far the Amsoil seems to be the smoothest shifting fluid yet, however i recently seen that Brad Penn Oil has their own 80w90 GL4 gear oil, so i will be trying that one out next time. Also how often do you change your transmission oil? Thanks again.
I usually run either Motul 300 gear oil 75W90 or Liqui Moly # 22090 SAE Fully synthetic hypoid gear oil 75W-90 - I'm running Liqui Moly at the moment (just changed the oil a bit ago). Both excellent smooth shifting oils. I change the oil on the gearbox and differential every 20,000 miles give or take. Driven makes good stuff. I'm about to try their HR2 10W30 oil in the truck actually.
@@ray5961 that's great, I will keep in mind the oils you mentioned for future consideration. Thanks for the reply, can't wait to here your thoughts on the engine oil.
@@alvaroeloredo Yeah I'm curious to see how the HR2 stuff does. I'm currently running this oil here: www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2043-Anti-Friction-10W-40/dp/B00CPL952G/ along with 8 oz of Lucas ZDDP to bring the zinc levels up to around 4500 PPM total. Now that it's getting colder, I'm gonna use up this HR2 10W30 that I have sitting around and see if there is any difference or anything.
@@ray5961 sounds good man. I honestly went somewhat deep down the rabbit hole on which engine oil to run when I first bought my Toyota pickup, I ultimately went with Amsoil signature series 10w30 for about 40k miles, with 6 to 8k oil change intervals. I noticed that the engine was using/burning over a quart in between oil changes and I never liked that. So I then went with what 22REperformance recommends for oil changes, which is a good quality conventional 10w30 with a 3k mile oil change interval, I now go through maybe a half a quart of oil in between oil changes and I'm a lot happier with that, not to mention that the oil still looks cleaner than when I would do the 6 to 8k oil change intervals with the Amsoil. I know there is more to oil/ oil change intervals than what I just mentioned, but something about regular ol conventional Dino oil with 3k oil change intervals just makes sense to me. Anyways, I'm sorry for my long rant, not saying one is right over the other, just wanted to share my experience lol.
@@alvaroeloredo Yeah, I usually change the engine oil every 5000 miles here. 10W30 vs 10W40 usually comes down to bear clearances or outside temps. Main thing for the 22RE is to keep the Zinc levels up above 3000 PPM.
So just to be sure you added the 1 magnetic plug to the oil drain, and 2x to the transmission on the fill plug and drain plug, and 2x to the differential on the fill plug and drain plug (4 total) of the other size correct?
Yeah, you have the idea. Magnetic drain plug on the oil pan for the motor oil. Then also two magnetic style plugs on the gear box (fill and drain plugs). Same for the differential - magnetic plugs on both the fill and drain locations. Magnets for everybody! :) The gear box also has its own internal magnet on the center sandwich section (at least on the cast iron plate version of the W58), but unless you split the case on the gearbox for service, there is no way to clean it.
VHT SP201 Wrinkle finish: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPIMXK - that's what I used on both the valve cover as well as the intake plenum. Also did some block sanding on the intake plenum to give that top area a smoother look.
The fuel pressure sender is mounted off the back of the fuel filter. It screws into the banjo bolt that threads into the line at the rear of the fuel filter. I can't remember if I had to drill and tap that myself or if I was able to find one already setup from Summit Racing.
That's mostly a fresh air breather hose; it allows metered air (air which the AFM has measured and reported to the ECU) to enter into the front of the valve cover in order to replace fumes which the PCV system is drawing out from the back (aka crankcase blow by). So if the system is functioning correctly, there shouldn't be much air flowing out of the motor via the front hose; mostly it allows air to flow into the motor; and so there is no need for an oil separator there.
Well ray i took your advice on the 94 toy. p/u and changed thermal switch and cold start injector now it will not start at all what would you suggest i am thinking ignitor ?
That's kinda strange. I'd avoid just randomly swapping / replacing stuff. It's better to diagnose the issue and isolate the offending part. On the cold start injector, did you replace it because it was not functioning correctly originally? And on the thermal switch, did you test the old one? Also, did you use a Toyota OEM cold start timer switch? As I remember, those aren't cheap. As far as the igniter, you can easily test that by just pulling a spark plug out, setting it against the motor and cranking the engine to see if there is spark or not. You can also buy a cheap spark plug tester and put it in line.. that will tell you right away if there is spark or not. Here's the one I use here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002STSC6/ - be careful just replacing everything on the truck, that's not the way to solve this issue. Make sure you have fuel in the tank also. Motors need fuel, compression and spark to run... so start checking to see what isn't there. Testing spark is easy. Testing fuel isn't too hard. Compression check, etc. Do you have a factory shop manual? Usually the 22RE should fire right up if everything is working correctly.
@@ray5961 thanks for the advice injector was professionally cleaned tested switch came from lc OEM Got the fuel issue solved now this happened i will let you know thanks...
I don't have an oil pressure gauge which reads out the actual PSI (just the stock gauge on the SR5 dash cluster), so I couldn't say for sure. However, I do have a higher pressure / volume oil pump, which I believe does increase pressure somewhat. I'm also running about .0023" on my connecting rod bearings and my connecting rods do not have the factory oil squirting holes, so that might help to contain some of the otherwise lost pressure when running factory connecting rods that do have those holes. Oil thickness can also have a small impact; I'm running 10W40 at the moment.
@@shamos999 It's hard to say. I think generally speaking, the gauges are setup to have the needle approximately in the middle when everything is operating "normally". I've got the original Toyota Factory owner's manual here for my truck (model year 1990)... on page 36 it shows a little diagram of what where the needle should range for both "idling" as well as "normal driving". For idling, it says the needle should be between the 1st line (with the L over it) anywhere up to the 3rd line. That's what they mention for "idling". For normal driving, however, they indicate that the needle should be between line #2 and line #4 (line #5 being the far right line below the H). I wonder if your oil pressure sending unit on the block is working as it should and sending the gauge the correct voltage? When I upgraded my dash to the SR5 unit, I also had to install the updated sending unit, so mine is relatively new on this motor. Anyway, hard to say for sure, without taking some voltage or resistance measurements. If you want to see a pic of page 36, shoot me an email (my address is under the 'about tab' on the channel here) and I can snap a picture and email it over.
I just double checked my truck - with the 19" wiper on my driver's side, when it wipes up to the very tip top, I still have about 1 to 1.5 inches to go before it would touch anything but the windshield itself. My truck is a 1990 2WD.
@ray5961 thank you for the reply, I have a 1991 2wd ext cab, the left 19 inch Wiper on my driver side (left hand drive here in usa) when the Wipers are in the up right position I see an inch or two of the bottom or left half goes off my window and then comes back on when my wipers proceed to go back down towards their resting position
@@edp9811 yeah, not sure. Perhaps the arms are not adjusted correctly or there is some problem with the linkage or something? It almost sounds like the motor is wiping too far?
@ray5961 not sure, might have to just swap my driver and passenger ones for now, looks like there is more room on the passenger side. Still enjoy all your videos though this didn't work for me personally lol
@@edp9811 Yeah, hard to say. Maybe someone changed something in the arms on my truck or your truck? Next time I see my friend that has a 1994 truck, I'll double check his wiper arms and see if the are the same and take some measurements.
I've actually thought about doing that. If I wasn't going to swap the 22RE for the 3RZ, I probably would. That would be a clean setup for the 22RE for sure.
@@xxkrazzxxswapping battery and intake box locations that shortens the distance that air has to travel to get to the intake. It shortens the time the air has to heat up and doesn't route it across the front of the engine.
My truck has the 22RE - I don't really have any experience with the V6 motors. The only thing I know is the 3.0 tends to blow the head gasket (I think due to the cross over exhaust pipe back there). I don't really know the story on it, but I think if I had a 3.0 motor, I would research that and look into running a custom exhaust. Also maybe install the Fel-Pro perma-torque headgaskets on there. I believe the motor does have a forged crankshaft, which is usually the sign of a very high quality motor from Toyota. Sorry I don't have more information.
@@ray5961 Thanks for that info at least, learned more then I knew before. Also why would you lean your engine out with the afm? Was it running too rich? I just did that same thing to mine, from experience I know those springs are weaker by now and I retention it a couple of clicks I also hooked my fpr directly to vacuum as it normally goes to the EGR control and that had been removed from my machine.
@@dposer10 On my truck I have a wide band O2 sensor and gauge installed, so I was mostly tuning the AFM according to getting the right A/F ratio while cruising on the highway. That turned out to be 1 click more lean. I was actually contemplating going another click more lean to increase gas mileage a bit further, but I don't wanna burn too lean. The pistons and valves and chamber are ceramic coated on my motor, so I might be able to get away with it. However, the truck runs so great I really don't wanna start messing around with anything else out here haha. Basically I just set the AFM so that under anything but WOT, I get around .90 lambda air/fuel ratio. If you check my more recent videos, you'll see I setup a bypass switch to force the ECU to richen up the mixture under wide open throttle (this was because it was running lean momentarily when transitioning from part to full throttle and it was kind of annoying to have the truck lag until the ECU got back on track.
haha.. there's a few videos on the channel about the Ferraris. I've sold them all now and just driving my truck. The 360 and 458 were the two best. The 355 was fun, but a little unruly at times. The 488 had an exhaust not for shit, so I sold it as quickly as humanly possible.
@@geoffdeeringer7802 While you are using the timing light and setting the base timing. Once you finish adjusting the timing to like 5 degree BTDC or 7 degrees BTDC (and lock down the bolt on the distributor), then you pull the jumper off and confirm that the timing advances to more like 13 degrees BTDC. The ECU (when the jumper is off - i.e. normal driving around) will control advance. But when you are attempting to set the timing exactly, you don't want the ECU in the mix moving the timing around on ya (because you are trying to use your timing light to adjust it). So that jumper from Te to E1 tells the ECU "stop fucking around with the advance dude" so you can set it. Then yeah, remove the jumper and let it do its thing and drive your truck as normal. It's just so you can set the timing without the ECU doing any advancing sort of stuff.
Well laid-out chapters, links all in the description... super quality content here. Thank you!
Thanks! Yeah, my friend Melanie suggested doing that UA-cam chapter thing, so I looked into how to set that up. Pretty handy!
Honestly I love the amount of detail explained and laid out , super useful thank you so much
Thanks! Part two is coming soon
Thank you for the video! concise, well laid out and super helpful with links and time stamps. I'll definitely be doing some of these upgrades on my 22re Pickup. I opted for the Hella Glass headlights with a harness upgrade and higher wattage Halogens, the heat output helps keep the headlights from freezing over in -30c Northern winters. Looking forward to part 2 of your series! keep up the good work!
thanks!
Great info!!
Thanks!!
Inspiring video. My old 90 4runner 22re needs some love and I'd love to tackle some of these upgrades. Wow that's a clean engine though. Mine gets oil buildup everywhere. Definitely getting that idler adjustment screw first thing, as I've had to tape mine over to stop it from freely spinning. I also run my idle about 200rpm over stock, otherwise it stumbles once it's warm at stops. Looking forward to part two. Thanks for the awesome info.
Thanks! Part 2 will come eventually :)
I have never heard of these spark plug modifications before, seems nuts, gap specs have left the chat 😄 I will read into it!
Yeah, you and me both lol. It's really interesting and sort of counter intuitive, but it definitely improves smoothness and throttle response. I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't test it first hand. Here's the white paper which discusses it in more detail: www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2090447912000883
@@ray5961this means it’s better snipping the spark plug?
@@alvenparody Yeah, it seems to make the motor run smoother and make a touch more power yes. I'm running it like you see in the video, but I have pushed the ground strap a little closer to the center electrode (gap of around .040" or so).
@@ray5961so you use the snip set up and not the cut off set up? And that gap has worked for me I usually do 0.35 or 0.40
@@matexf4c yeah, I have been using the snip setup shown in this video and it's been working the best. I had been totally removing the entire ground strap (as shown in a previous video) and while that does work okay for a while, after 300-500 miles it seems to carbon up too much. Leaving around 1/2 the strap as shown in this video seems to be more reliable longer term.
Great stuff Ray! Looking forward to part 2. In the meantime, would you mind telling us the MSD Coil part number? Can’t wait for part 2!
Thanks! It's the MSD 8222 here www.amazon.com/dp/B00029JLAY/
@@ray5961 you’re the man Ray!
@@josephestrada2632 haha.. that's what I keep telling my kids, but they don't believe me :)
I wish this was for the 3VZE. Thanks though, still an interesting video.
Good video man. I've been thinking of upgrading my headlights to the glass headlights you showed in this video. How hard is the install on these and do you have to do any cutting to get them to fit?
It's not too bad. The worst part is removing the front grill and having to clean all the rust off the buckets. On mine, I ended up painting the buckets with tractor paint, so that took some additional time. Also the threads for the small screws were messed up a bit, so I ended up switching over to those M4 Torx screws (link to those in the description). So doing all those little touches took some extra time. But otherwise, it's pretty straightforward. The most tricky part that I remember is you kinda have to rebend the attach tabs on the chrome surrounds as I recall. Oh, also drilling out the reflector shield things inside the housings is a bit tricky, because the housings are made from glass. You kinda have to just lightly drill the rivets using like a 1/4 drill and then once you cut away some material on the rivet head, you have to carefully bend the edge up using pliers... be real careful or you could shatter the housing. I might have also had to slightly cut the plastic on the LED's to get them to clock in there correctly, but I don't remember for sure. It's not too horrible of a job though; mainly just a bunch of tiny adjustments in order to get everything to fit in nicely. I noticed now they also have some lenses like mine, but with a round projector style deal in the middle. However, I like just having the totally clear / flat lenses, since it looks pretty much stock. I'll tell you what.. they are super bright. Back when I was 19 or 20, I installed air craft landing lights on my Datsun 510. Those were pretty crazy. These LED lights are just as bright. When paired with the D2 driving lights, it's insanity. It's almost like driving in daylight with those and the high beams on haha. When I'm driving on the highway at night and flip everything on, all the street signs for an 1/8th mile glow super bright... people behind me must be like WTF? It's pretty wild. It's actually so bright I have to cut the driving lights out of the mix using the switch on my dash, otherwise truckers will start flashing me like crazy, even when they are up to 1/2 mile away and clear across the highway 300-400 yards on the other side coming at me if I don't get back to low beams quick enough. The D2 driving lights are like having two small super novas on your bumper.. it's crazy. And the glass lenses with those Fanless LED's are pretty good in their own right. Definitely worth doing the upgrade... plus the LED bulbs only pull 1.8 to 1.9 amps each, whereas normal H4 bulbs were pulling almost 5 amps each according to my measurements here. Definitely a great update when compared to the meek stock lights from Toyota. Sometimes I take the truck out at night, just so I can enjoy turning on all the lights :-)
Ray,
Are you active on any of the Toyota forums? As of a few days ago, I have two '86 4Runners in varying states of disrepair. Your videos are incredibly helpful, and will be utilized a lot as I diagnose some things. Would love to be able to pick your brain once in awhile. Something that can make these trucks tough to fix is "DIY" nature of previous owners; I'm having a hard time correcting everything that has been changed to even develop a "correct" baseline to start from.
Hi Dan - I'm not really active on the forums (beyond just googling stuff occasionally and reading posts). But you're always welcome to message me directly; the address is in the 'about' tab of my UA-cam channel.
Thanks for all this info.
Now i know where to do the cutting on the plug more or less 👍
You're welcome man. Yeah, cut away and then hit the cut part on the wire wheel of a bench grinder and you should be good to go.
@Ray Nada when you say no sharp edges means to round off the ground stap edges or just clean off the cut , flat top ?
@@rafaelduenas6465 Don't mess with the ceramic part, nor that little flat top part (the electrode) which pokes out of the very center of the white part. Leave all that untouched as much as you can. When you snip off the ground strap using diagonals, it will kinda pinch the metal and leave a slight sharp burr on there... you wanna get rid of that sharp pointy stuff that is left after cutting, either by using the wire wheel (very carefully) on the bench grinder, or by taking a very small file and very lightly brushing across it. You don't need to go crazy, but just basically smooth off that cut location and round it over slightly so it's more of a rounded nub as opposed to a sharp triangle left over from the diagonals.
@Ray Nada yes... just mess with the ground strap only, got it
@@rafaelduenas6465 Perfecto... now we are talking. Let me know how it goes!
Has part two been released yet? I did a quick search for it but couldn't find anything.
Also, thanks for all the great info comprehensive exclamations
Not yet.. I need to sit down and record it. It will happen at some point here. I'm just in the process of selling my house, which is sucking up all my time over here. But I haven't forgotten :-)
Hi, thank you for shear this video, I have a cuestión for you what place do you recommend to buy the Flow air sensor for my truck. Thank you
Are you referring to the AFM (air flow monitor) which is bolted to the top of the air filter housing lid? This is the one I'm running on my truck out here (from Napa): www.napaonline.com/en/p/NECXTP420055
Hey hey..i followed your direction on removing the fuel up vsv... awesome info...but im now trying to relocate the 2 red vsv's like you did...and im lost!!! Maybe you could touch on that in a future video!...also i see you capped 3 vaccum lines at the throttle body...id like to know where you are pulling vacuum from..thanx for everything you are doing!
This video might be of some interest / help to you: ua-cam.com/video/FdatPPidDM8/v-deo.html - as far as the two VSV's on the fender well there; one is for the AS (air suction) system and the other is for the EGR (exhaust gas re-circulation) system. The AS is pretty straight forward. Its vacuum source is off the upper plenum (you might be able to see the little 90 degree fitting in the middle, which points straight down; the hose runs down and under the plenum and goes over to the AS. From there, it goes to the AS valve itself, which is bolted under the runners. The video above will kinda outline everything. On the EGR, it's a bit more involved on account of there is a vacuum modulator in the mix. Again, that video will help clear things up. The EGR valve operates off vacuum, but also exhaust gas pressure, and the vacuum modulator controls all that (most of all the hoses up on the throttle body relate to that) - if you look closely, there should be small letters stamped on everything, which show which hose goes where (more or less). Once you dig into it, you can kinda wrap your head around it. That video I linked above is actually as a result of me trying to figure it all out myself.. and coloring in those different hoses in the shop manual photo, so I could figure out what in the F is going on. The hose going to the throttle body marked "P" is just the fume purge for the EVAP can, so that's just a direct run. Once you break it all down, it's pretty easy to start moving the VSV's around. I will have a video coming down the road which touches on that actually, but in the meantime if you have any other questions just let me know.
Would any of this apply to the 3vze? In particular the spark plug gap mod lol
The spark plug mod should be fine yes.
Man this video was awesome! I appreciate you taking your time to record and share this with us.
Im curious as to which transmission fluid you use? Ive uses the Amsoil MTF, and currently running a fluid by Driven, all have been GL4 of course. So far the Amsoil seems to be the smoothest shifting fluid yet, however i recently seen that Brad Penn Oil has their own 80w90 GL4 gear oil, so i will be trying that one out next time.
Also how often do you change your transmission oil? Thanks again.
I usually run either Motul 300 gear oil 75W90 or Liqui Moly # 22090 SAE Fully synthetic hypoid gear oil 75W-90 - I'm running Liqui Moly at the moment (just changed the oil a bit ago). Both excellent smooth shifting oils. I change the oil on the gearbox and differential every 20,000 miles give or take. Driven makes good stuff. I'm about to try their HR2 10W30 oil in the truck actually.
@@ray5961 that's great, I will keep in mind the oils you mentioned for future consideration. Thanks for the reply, can't wait to here your thoughts on the engine oil.
@@alvaroeloredo Yeah I'm curious to see how the HR2 stuff does. I'm currently running this oil here: www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2043-Anti-Friction-10W-40/dp/B00CPL952G/ along with 8 oz of Lucas ZDDP to bring the zinc levels up to around 4500 PPM total. Now that it's getting colder, I'm gonna use up this HR2 10W30 that I have sitting around and see if there is any difference or anything.
@@ray5961 sounds good man. I honestly went somewhat deep down the rabbit hole on which engine oil to run when I first bought my Toyota pickup, I ultimately went with Amsoil signature series 10w30 for about 40k miles, with 6 to 8k oil change intervals. I noticed that the engine was using/burning over a quart in between oil changes and I never liked that.
So I then went with what 22REperformance recommends for oil changes, which is a good quality conventional 10w30 with a 3k mile oil change interval, I now go through maybe a half a quart of oil in between oil changes and I'm a lot happier with that, not to mention that the oil still looks cleaner than when I would do the 6 to 8k oil change intervals with the Amsoil. I know there is more to oil/ oil change intervals than what I just mentioned, but something about regular ol conventional Dino oil with 3k oil change intervals just makes sense to me.
Anyways, I'm sorry for my long rant, not saying one is right over the other, just wanted to share my experience lol.
@@alvaroeloredo Yeah, I usually change the engine oil every 5000 miles here. 10W30 vs 10W40 usually comes down to bear clearances or outside temps. Main thing for the 22RE is to keep the Zinc levels up above 3000 PPM.
Ih its ,injoy your video i need to get too head light for my truck this was my plan now ihear u
So just to be sure you added the 1 magnetic plug to the oil drain, and 2x to the transmission on the fill plug and drain plug, and 2x to the differential on the fill plug and drain plug (4 total) of the other size correct?
Yeah, you have the idea. Magnetic drain plug on the oil pan for the motor oil. Then also two magnetic style plugs on the gear box (fill and drain plugs). Same for the differential - magnetic plugs on both the fill and drain locations. Magnets for everybody! :) The gear box also has its own internal magnet on the center sandwich section (at least on the cast iron plate version of the W58), but unless you split the case on the gearbox for service, there is no way to clean it.
Just curious what kind of paint did you use on the valve cover oh and Intake?
VHT SP201 Wrinkle finish: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPIMXK - that's what I used on both the valve cover as well as the intake plenum. Also did some block sanding on the intake plenum to give that top area a smoother look.
hi ray, thx for posting this content, i wanted to ask how you plumbed in that aem fuel pressure gauge? i couldn't find it in the other videos.
The fuel pressure sender is mounted off the back of the fuel filter. It screws into the banjo bolt that threads into the line at the rear of the fuel filter. I can't remember if I had to drill and tap that myself or if I was able to find one already setup from Summit Racing.
How come you don’t have a oil air separator on the front pvc hose
That's mostly a fresh air breather hose; it allows metered air (air which the AFM has measured and reported to the ECU) to enter into the front of the valve cover in order to replace fumes which the PCV system is drawing out from the back (aka crankcase blow by). So if the system is functioning correctly, there shouldn't be much air flowing out of the motor via the front hose; mostly it allows air to flow into the motor; and so there is no need for an oil separator there.
Well ray i took your advice on the 94 toy. p/u and changed thermal switch and cold start injector now it will not start at all what
would you suggest i am thinking ignitor ?
That's kinda strange. I'd avoid just randomly swapping / replacing stuff. It's better to diagnose the issue and isolate the offending part. On the cold start injector, did you replace it because it was not functioning correctly originally? And on the thermal switch, did you test the old one? Also, did you use a Toyota OEM cold start timer switch? As I remember, those aren't cheap. As far as the igniter, you can easily test that by just pulling a spark plug out, setting it against the motor and cranking the engine to see if there is spark or not. You can also buy a cheap spark plug tester and put it in line.. that will tell you right away if there is spark or not. Here's the one I use here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002STSC6/ - be careful just replacing everything on the truck, that's not the way to solve this issue. Make sure you have fuel in the tank also. Motors need fuel, compression and spark to run... so start checking to see what isn't there. Testing spark is easy. Testing fuel isn't too hard. Compression check, etc. Do you have a factory shop manual? Usually the 22RE should fire right up if everything is working correctly.
@@ray5961 thanks for the advice injector was professionally cleaned tested switch came from lc OEM Got the fuel issue solved now this happened i will let you know thanks...
@@jtaylor-fi5bd Interesting. Check spark and check compression. Make sure your plugs are not gas fouled.
Good info to consider. I just got a super clean '94 two wheel drive short bed. Only 164k miles.
Where's part 2?
Part 2 is coming soon. 2WD is where it's at! :-)
can i do this to a 1992 3.0 3vz with the spark plugs
I would think it should work on most any motor, yeah.
@@ray5961 will it mess up the valves or top of piston
For whatever reason, neither of my 22re run that high of oil pressure at 2k rpm... like ur running 50psi at 2k?
I don't have an oil pressure gauge which reads out the actual PSI (just the stock gauge on the SR5 dash cluster), so I couldn't say for sure. However, I do have a higher pressure / volume oil pump, which I believe does increase pressure somewhat. I'm also running about .0023" on my connecting rod bearings and my connecting rods do not have the factory oil squirting holes, so that might help to contain some of the otherwise lost pressure when running factory connecting rods that do have those holes. Oil thickness can also have a small impact; I'm running 10W40 at the moment.
Ray, both my 22re run slightly above first line at 2k rpm, and barely registering at idle.
@@shamos999 It's hard to say. I think generally speaking, the gauges are setup to have the needle approximately in the middle when everything is operating "normally". I've got the original Toyota Factory owner's manual here for my truck (model year 1990)... on page 36 it shows a little diagram of what where the needle should range for both "idling" as well as "normal driving". For idling, it says the needle should be between the 1st line (with the L over it) anywhere up to the 3rd line. That's what they mention for "idling". For normal driving, however, they indicate that the needle should be between line #2 and line #4 (line #5 being the far right line below the H). I wonder if your oil pressure sending unit on the block is working as it should and sending the gauge the correct voltage? When I upgraded my dash to the SR5 unit, I also had to install the updated sending unit, so mine is relatively new on this motor. Anyway, hard to say for sure, without taking some voltage or resistance measurements. If you want to see a pic of page 36, shoot me an email (my address is under the 'about tab' on the channel here) and I can snap a picture and email it over.
I put a 19 in on my driver side for my wiper blade and I noticed that the tip goes over and off my windshield a little bit.
Does yours?
I just double checked my truck - with the 19" wiper on my driver's side, when it wipes up to the very tip top, I still have about 1 to 1.5 inches to go before it would touch anything but the windshield itself. My truck is a 1990 2WD.
@ray5961 thank you for the reply, I have a 1991 2wd ext cab, the left 19 inch Wiper on my driver side (left hand drive here in usa) when the Wipers are in the up right position I see an inch or two of the bottom or left half goes off my window and then comes back on when my wipers proceed to go back down towards their resting position
@@edp9811 yeah, not sure. Perhaps the arms are not adjusted correctly or there is some problem with the linkage or something? It almost sounds like the motor is wiping too far?
@ray5961 not sure, might have to just swap my driver and passenger ones for now, looks like there is more room on the passenger side. Still enjoy all your videos though this didn't work for me personally lol
@@edp9811 Yeah, hard to say. Maybe someone changed something in the arms on my truck or your truck? Next time I see my friend that has a 1994 truck, I'll double check his wiper arms and see if the are the same and take some measurements.
Omg that thing idles at 25psi oil pressure?? Both my 22re are 10 or less at idle
haha.. which gauge are you looking at? The dash one in the upper left corner?
@@ray5961 im looking at stock dash gauge... for whatever reason i always thought first line is 30, middle of cluster is 60, at top bracket is 85-90
Can you still pass smog removing vsv?
I just relocated mine to the fender well (to get them off the top of the valve cover), but they are still attached and fully operational.
You should also try the battery intake swap.
I've actually thought about doing that. If I wasn't going to swap the 22RE for the 3RZ, I probably would. That would be a clean setup for the 22RE for sure.
What is the intake battery swap?
@@xxkrazzxxswapping battery and intake box locations that shortens the distance that air has to travel to get to the intake. It shortens the time the air has to heat up and doesn't route it across the front of the engine.
What about the v6? That's what my truck has
My truck has the 22RE - I don't really have any experience with the V6 motors. The only thing I know is the 3.0 tends to blow the head gasket (I think due to the cross over exhaust pipe back there). I don't really know the story on it, but I think if I had a 3.0 motor, I would research that and look into running a custom exhaust. Also maybe install the Fel-Pro perma-torque headgaskets on there. I believe the motor does have a forged crankshaft, which is usually the sign of a very high quality motor from Toyota. Sorry I don't have more information.
@@ray5961 Thanks for that info at least, learned more then I knew before. Also why would you lean your engine out with the afm? Was it running too rich? I just did that same thing to mine, from experience I know those springs are weaker by now and I retention it a couple of clicks I also hooked my fpr directly to vacuum as it normally goes to the EGR control and that had been removed from my machine.
@@dposer10 On my truck I have a wide band O2 sensor and gauge installed, so I was mostly tuning the AFM according to getting the right A/F ratio while cruising on the highway. That turned out to be 1 click more lean. I was actually contemplating going another click more lean to increase gas mileage a bit further, but I don't wanna burn too lean. The pistons and valves and chamber are ceramic coated on my motor, so I might be able to get away with it. However, the truck runs so great I really don't wanna start messing around with anything else out here haha. Basically I just set the AFM so that under anything but WOT, I get around .90 lambda air/fuel ratio. If you check my more recent videos, you'll see I setup a bypass switch to force the ECU to richen up the mixture under wide open throttle (this was because it was running lean momentarily when transitioning from part to full throttle and it was kind of annoying to have the truck lag until the ECU got back on track.
Part 2? 😊
Eventually yes. Maybe another few weeks. I'm kinda back logged on some other stuff at the moment, but I have not forgotten about part 2 :-)
Enough of this 22-re, tell me about yer Ferrari 😜
haha.. there's a few videos on the channel about the Ferraris. I've sold them all now and just driving my truck. The 360 and 458 were the two best. The 355 was fun, but a little unruly at times. The 488 had an exhaust not for shit, so I sold it as quickly as humanly possible.
On the jumper to set the timing do you leave it on there all the time or just when you set the timing.
@@geoffdeeringer7802 While you are using the timing light and setting the base timing. Once you finish adjusting the timing to like 5 degree BTDC or 7 degrees BTDC (and lock down the bolt on the distributor), then you pull the jumper off and confirm that the timing advances to more like 13 degrees BTDC. The ECU (when the jumper is off - i.e. normal driving around) will control advance. But when you are attempting to set the timing exactly, you don't want the ECU in the mix moving the timing around on ya (because you are trying to use your timing light to adjust it). So that jumper from Te to E1 tells the ECU "stop fucking around with the advance dude" so you can set it. Then yeah, remove the jumper and let it do its thing and drive your truck as normal. It's just so you can set the timing without the ECU doing any advancing sort of stuff.