Another good video thanks Bill. I think I have one of these so the tips you have given will be a good help. The CHINA made models do look good but you are spot-on, they take a lot of care at all times, from lifting out of the packaging to putting it back again. Thanks again.
Hi Bill,, paying it forwards is thee best thing to do. I have been using the bartering system for at least 35 years. I only just had to replace the axle bearing in my falcon ute here and i done the mechanicals myself and got a mate to fit the new bearing to the axle (at no charge to me as we have done so for the last 13 or 14 years). The whole repair cost me $76.00 ausd and i was quoted $780 plus parts which made it close to $1,000 so the bartering system works really well. Cheers from John in Australia
Hi Bill......my bame is Des and I live in Adelaide South Australia........you made my day today as I have just fnished rebuilding two rebuilt West Country locomotives.....one had a quartering problem the other the deive gear on the wheels of the loco had split.Just by the by the first thing I do with all Hornby locos is I strip them right down and replace the rubbish wire supplied with the loco.I colour code all the wiring to dcc standard black and red for pickup grey and orange for the motor .....this I find makes it much easier to trouble shoot short circuits especially from tender to loco.......Just been down what you experienced with the Black Five.Hornby locos to repair are pretty easy to repair I find,quartering can be a bit of a hassle but we get there ine end.I had to try and get some replacement gear wheels(the driving gear in either the rear wheel or centre wheel) fot the WEst COuntry) and the repacement costs are astronomic 86 pounds delivered from Petes Spares.......just rediculous.We just cannot get spares fo Hornby at all.......Hornby dont or will not supply direct and the postage rates are out of this world.Anyway Bill I really enjoy your videos and your repair work not mention the layout rebuild.Thanks again for the entertainmrnt and look forward to your next adventure.Kindest repards Des Davis.
It’s a great fix. Finding spare part valve gear was handy. For some locos like the Hornby super detail 8F valve gear it can be really difficult to source the parts. One advantage of the Railroad range over the Suoerdetail range is the robustness of the valve gear when taking on and off the track.
I know it's not mentioned here, but if you take things this expensive apart, have at least basic tools, at least basic knowledge, and be prepared to have to wait for parts in the post which might also be expensive. The man (me) telling you this is the one who learnt that lesson the expensive way!!
Nice job Bill. Look forward to comments on that tender pick-up issue. I wonder if others have experienced this? 100% agree with your sentiments on simplicity and robustness being more important than fine detail. What is the era of these Hornby assembled in China models we should avoid?
Well done fixing that model. I agree these can be very fiddly. It's not a bodge if it works. The Railroad 4-4-0 County is all hard wired and all black wires. Some of my locos have fell apart just going round the track. Cheers Paul.
45458 is the one with the blue smoke box number and harder to find so it's good to see you did a great repair, I fitted the body to an newer chassis with the decoder in the tender so I could add sound easily.
I'm guessing the black wire is shorting to the chassis somehow (since the red one is clearly connected to it). Could be where the pickup comes up through the chassis or where the black wire crosses the brass connector that earths the red one, or possibly where the black one disappears back down through a hole (presumably to the drawbar).
Another terrific repair and a big -hearted gesture in paying for the valve gear. As Chris Southgate suggested is it likely that sideways movement of the tender centre wheel pair on a bend just nudged those soldered contacts together? As soon as you pick it up to look at it they centre and Poof the problem is gone! Old time Tr-iang would have moulded a plastic rib down the centre to ensure they stayed apart. It also looks like somebody previously got rid of the iffy, Chinese cheapo "sandwich" of touching contacts and hard wired from the loco contacts to the motor. So another loco better now than when it left the factory. BTW I see the new diecast body A4 has an RRP of £320.99. Hmmm!
Taking a stab at the shorting issue - is it / was it arcing across & the cocktail stick is enough distance & insulation to prevent that? Great vid with extreme patience shown Bill.
Nice one always like a nice peacefull watch of you… I have a old duchess that the tender has a snapped axle any suggestion how to source a replacement ?
While the tender pickups aren't directly touching, wonder would the fact the two points where the cocktail stick went being so close possibly be causing a small arc causing the inconsistent stopping?
My Scottish ancestors just rolled in their graves at the thought of a scott giving anything away for no cost.😂, great job Bill, you have a lot more patience than me
A thousand possible reasons! (All electrical.) I was running an old Tri-ang Hornby M7 the other day... It had been running fine, and then suddenly would only move half an inch forwards, or backwards, before stalling. Closer investigation revealed a loose NEM coupling hook had been attracted by the motor magnet, and had lodged itself, vertically, behind the coupling rod. Half a wheel turn was all it could manage before the hook got wedged and stalled the motor! Not seen that before, and I've been looking at locos for nearly 5 decades! First thing to check for is foreign objects - track pins, couplings, buffers - attracted by the magnet. Then visually inspect the wiring -- anything amiss? Then start methodically checking continuity of the electrical supply from one wheel, up through the motor, and down to the other rail. Also check that pickups are not bent inwards or accidentally touching the chassis. A multimeter with a continuity beeper is your friend here, but don't use it on that setting when the loco has power applied. Really depends on which loco, as there are hundreds of different locos, and tens of different mechanisms.
Oh gaaaaa... Those pickups wired to the chassis cover always make me want to scream! Lol totally designed with the premise that noone would want to service them, and someone would just buy a new one for £200+ ... Hahahaha jokes on you Hornby! BILLS HERE!
If you look carefully, the extra space between the rear two axles is to allow for the ashpan below the firebox. Older models often (incorrectly) had even spacing , probably to reduce production costs (common coupling rods / chassis for different models, for example), or else because people weren't so fussed about millimetre accuracy, and/or uneven spacing might look 'odd'!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #1 НАЧАЛО ПУТЕШЕСТВИЯ [Новый сезон] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/380Q7gLWGvk/mqdefault.jpg)
Another good video thanks Bill. I think I have one of these so the tips you have given will be a good help. The CHINA made models do look good but you are spot-on, they take a lot of care at all times, from lifting out of the packaging to putting it back again. Thanks again.
I Love a Black 5 Story, it was Gr8 when she Sprang into life with a bit of Wheel Slip 😁🙌🏻
Hi Bill,, paying it forwards is thee best thing to do. I have been using the bartering system for at least 35 years. I only just had to replace the axle bearing in my falcon ute here and i done the mechanicals myself and got a mate to fit the new bearing to the axle (at no charge to me as we have done so for the last 13 or 14 years). The whole repair cost me $76.00 ausd and i was quoted $780 plus parts which made it close to $1,000 so the bartering system works really well.
Cheers from John in Australia
Running nicely now, for sure, and looks great going around the layout! Another good one, Bill.
Well done - I know how trying these locos can be. I've a couple of black 5s from this era and have had hours of 'fun' fixing them!
Hi Bill......my bame is Des and I live in Adelaide South Australia........you made my day today as I have just fnished rebuilding two rebuilt West Country locomotives.....one had a quartering problem the other the deive gear on the wheels of the loco had split.Just by the by the first thing I do with all Hornby locos is I strip them right down and replace the rubbish wire supplied with the loco.I colour code all the wiring to dcc standard black and red for pickup grey and orange for the motor .....this I find makes it much easier to trouble shoot short circuits especially from tender to loco.......Just been down what you experienced with the Black Five.Hornby locos to repair are pretty easy to repair I find,quartering can be a bit of a hassle but we get there ine end.I had to try and get some replacement gear wheels(the driving gear in either the rear wheel or centre wheel) fot the WEst COuntry) and the repacement costs are astronomic 86 pounds delivered from Petes Spares.......just rediculous.We just cannot get spares fo Hornby at all.......Hornby dont or will not supply direct and the postage rates are out of this world.Anyway Bill I really enjoy your videos and your repair work not mention the layout rebuild.Thanks again for the entertainmrnt and look forward to your next adventure.Kindest repards Des Davis.
Awesome fix Bill, always massively interesting a joy to watch.
It’s a great fix. Finding spare part valve gear was handy. For some locos like the Hornby super detail 8F valve gear it can be really difficult to source the parts. One advantage of the Railroad range over the Suoerdetail range is the robustness of the valve gear when taking on and off the track.
I know it's not mentioned here, but if you take things this expensive apart, have at least basic tools, at least basic knowledge, and be prepared to have to wait for parts in the post which might also be expensive. The man (me) telling you this is the one who learnt that lesson the expensive way!!
Next to Bachmann locos, these Hornbys are a piece of cake.
Hi Bill.
Good compromise but you forgot to leave the sausage on the cocktail stick.
Paul.
Nice job Bill. Look forward to comments on that tender pick-up issue. I wonder if others have experienced this?
100% agree with your sentiments on simplicity and robustness being more important than fine detail.
What is the era of these Hornby assembled in China models we should avoid?
Well done fixing that model. I agree these can be very fiddly. It's not a bodge if it works. The Railroad 4-4-0 County is all hard wired and all black wires. Some of my locos have fell apart just going round the track. Cheers Paul.
45458 is the one with the blue smoke box number and harder to find so it's good to see you did a great repair, I fitted the body to an newer chassis with the decoder in the tender so I could add sound easily.
Does the blue smoke box number mean it was a Scottish based one?
I'm guessing the black wire is shorting to the chassis somehow (since the red one is clearly connected to it). Could be where the pickup comes up through the chassis or where the black wire crosses the brass connector that earths the red one, or possibly where the black one disappears back down through a hole (presumably to the drawbar).
Bill has posted another video and all is right with the world 👍
Another terrific repair and a big -hearted gesture in paying for the valve gear. As Chris Southgate suggested is it likely that sideways movement of the tender centre wheel pair on a bend just nudged those soldered contacts together? As soon as you pick it up to look at it they centre and Poof the problem is gone! Old time Tr-iang would have moulded a plastic rib down the centre to ensure they stayed apart. It also looks like somebody previously got rid of the iffy, Chinese cheapo "sandwich" of touching contacts and hard wired from the loco contacts to the motor. So another loco better now than when it left the factory. BTW I see the new diecast body A4 has an RRP of £320.99. Hmmm!
Jings crivens helpma boab . Patience of a saint .
Amazing work Bill 👏
Taking a stab at the shorting issue - is it / was it arcing across & the cocktail stick is enough distance & insulation to prevent that? Great vid with extreme patience shown Bill.
Would the cocktail stick need an Olive fitted to it to make it a permanent resolution?
Breakdown voltage of air is (from memory) 5kV/centimetre, so you need a very close near-connection at 12V DC to get a spark!
Nice work Bill.
Another informative video
Amazing what you can do with a cocktail stick
Nice one always like a nice peacefull watch of you… I have a old duchess that the tender has a snapped axle any suggestion how to source a replacement ?
Off-the-shelf idea, could it be that the Tender wires are moving as the Loco runs, and the cocktail stick is holding & insulating the wires?
Patience is a human virtue, thank the gods fer whisky 😂
While the tender pickups aren't directly touching, wonder would the fact the two points where the cocktail stick went being so close possibly be causing a small arc causing the inconsistent stopping?
Great stuff yet again Bill……Nicola should have given YOU the Ferry contract..
Beautiful engine (if slightly plastic).
My Scottish ancestors just rolled in their graves at the thought of a scott giving anything away for no cost.😂, great job Bill, you have a lot more patience than me
Well done Bill
Sometimes what works is what works
Scratch your head and move on
Nick Australia
Good video thanks lee thanks lee
Could the wire be broken inside the red sleeve? You cocktail stick may be forging the token ends together.
Hi Bill, my friend has a loco that keeps on shorting the track. Would you know why?
Great video by the way👍
A thousand possible reasons! (All electrical.) I was running an old Tri-ang Hornby M7 the other day... It had been running fine, and then suddenly would only move half an inch forwards, or backwards, before stalling. Closer investigation revealed a loose NEM coupling hook had been attracted by the motor magnet, and had lodged itself, vertically, behind the coupling rod. Half a wheel turn was all it could manage before the hook got wedged and stalled the motor! Not seen that before, and I've been looking at locos for nearly 5 decades!
First thing to check for is foreign objects - track pins, couplings, buffers - attracted by the magnet. Then visually inspect the wiring -- anything amiss? Then start methodically checking continuity of the electrical supply from one wheel, up through the motor, and down to the other rail. Also check that pickups are not bent inwards or accidentally touching the chassis. A multimeter with a continuity beeper is your friend here, but don't use it on that setting when the loco has power applied.
Really depends on which loco, as there are hundreds of different locos, and tens of different mechanisms.
@@PeterJewell2 thank you👍
Oh gaaaaa... Those pickups wired to the chassis cover always make me want to scream! Lol totally designed with the premise that noone would want to service them, and someone would just buy a new one for £200+ ... Hahahaha jokes on you Hornby! BILLS HERE!
Persistence pays off Bill 😊
Is it my eyes or are the driving wheels not evenly spaced ?
That is actually how the Black 5's wheel spacing is on the driving wheels in real life too. Just looks a lot more exaggerated in model form!
If you look carefully, the extra space between the rear two axles is to allow for the ashpan below the firebox. Older models often (incorrectly) had even spacing , probably to reduce production costs (common coupling rods / chassis for different models, for example), or else because people weren't so fussed about millimetre accuracy, and/or uneven spacing might look 'odd'!
The Chinese can't be blamed for a poor design. Even if they did the design work for Hornby they shouldn't have accepted it.