I use the StewMac fish glue for everything guitar at this point. Pretty much the same thing as HHG without the hassle. In regards to the truss rod it's most likely in neutral and will likely vibrate if you tap on the neck. It really should have some tension on the rod in the tightening direction. As Eric mentioned it can be just bumping into that engaged spot to keep it from rattling. To be set properly it probably needs even a little more than that.
Thanks for mentioning my comment In your video. I’ve never had anyone mention me or a comment in their video Especially in my favourite topic So thank you
I am currently building a jumbo with turquoise trim. No pictures handy--sorry. Turq rosette, turq diamonds as fretboard markers as well as on the headstock and possibly on the bridge wings. I'm thinking about turq/silver Paris eye dots for the bridge pins and the fretboard side markers. Purfling is red/white/turq fiber that I had to make myself. I got the reconstituted turquoise from LMI. I haven't found another source for it now that they're history. Any hints?
Soooo, I read a rumour that LMI’s yellow wood glue was relabeled Wilsonart 30 yellow glue. Wilsonart has the glow under black light as did the LMI glue. Have a google and you can make your own decision.
I personally find titebond more reliable to take apart. It always comes apart at the same temperature. Hide glue either delaminates too easily or won't come apart easily for me. YMMV, but hide glue I find very inconsistent. Titebond seems to have a consistent, predictable recipe that I find only slightly harder to take apart than hide glue at it's best.
Teflon strips are readily available at Stewmac
I use the StewMac fish glue for everything guitar at this point. Pretty much the same thing as HHG without the hassle. In regards to the truss rod it's most likely in neutral and will likely vibrate if you tap on the neck. It really should have some tension on the rod in the tightening direction. As Eric mentioned it can be just bumping into that engaged spot to keep it from rattling. To be set properly it probably needs even a little more than that.
I have not used the LMI glue. But I think it phosphoresced under black light so you could see where it was before finishing over it. I could be wrong.
thank you Eric
Lucky Jerry to have a private session!
Thanks for mentioning my comment In your video.
I’ve never had anyone mention me or a comment in their video
Especially in my favourite topic
So thank you
I am currently building a jumbo with turquoise trim. No pictures handy--sorry. Turq rosette, turq diamonds as fretboard markers as well as on the headstock and possibly on the bridge wings. I'm thinking about turq/silver Paris eye dots for the bridge pins and the fretboard side markers. Purfling is red/white/turq fiber that I had to make myself. I got the reconstituted turquoise from LMI. I haven't found another source for it now that they're history. Any hints?
Hide glue also does not creep, where all the pva glues do. Fish has less shear strength.
Soooo, I read a rumour that LMI’s yellow wood glue was relabeled Wilsonart 30 yellow glue. Wilsonart has the glow under black light as did the LMI glue. Have a google and you can make your own decision.
Somogiy uses hide glue on his bridges.
I personally find titebond more reliable to take apart. It always comes apart at the same temperature. Hide glue either delaminates too easily or won't come apart easily for me. YMMV, but hide glue I find very inconsistent. Titebond seems to have a consistent, predictable recipe that I find only slightly harder to take apart than hide glue at it's best.
I addressed your comment in a new Q and A episode: ua-cam.com/video/wQK59eKRTnk/v-deo.html