KIA Ceed Handbrake Adjustment
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- How to adjust your handbrake without taking the rear wheels off to do so.
This is how to adjust the cable, the shoes are set by removing the wheels and turning a cog to find the perfect bit point.
-**Please watch the entire video in order to fully understand what can be done here, that way you'll avoid any potential misunderstanding**
Thank you for your attention :)
many thanks for the help . You solve the problem with your video.
Dont do This! This is not how you adjust a handbreake. This Only tightens the cable. Brake shoes Will not be adjusted correctly and wear unevenly and not be affective
It's a hand brake, not drum brakes, calm down 😉
In the interests of being objective, can you explain how to take up the slack in the cable?
You still need to adjust at both ends to do it properly. Not that hard to do a good job
@@danielwenngren960 I agree that the ideal scenario is to do the shoes and cable adjustment. In many cases, all that's required is to adjust the cable at the handle end. Done this for decades in a variety of cars.
Did you tighten the cable up with the handbrake off or on?
@@samwilson756 I let the handbrake off, then adjusted. Just make sure it's not dragging, when you've finished.
The deep joy that washes over you when you hear a fellow country man doing a UA-cam tutorial for your model of car. 🏴👍🏻
Unfortunately, I'm going to have to replace my fuel tank. Bloody thing has started leaking at the seam...
@@gtd65 I hope you've got access to a pit, that's a nightmare job!
@@bigjmal fortunately, a pal of mine has a post lift.
@@gtd65 that's exactly the kid of friend I need! Don't suppose this friend of yours is anywhere near Aviemore is he?!
@@bigjmal unfortunately not, he's down towards Jedburgh. It'll be the first time I've had access to one and hopefully it'll speed things up significantly. Heading down there around midday, as the tank arrived yesterday.
Just to chip in, don't know if it's already been said. Many pitfalls with the poor layout of engineering with Kia.
But it pays to take everything apart, the discs off too to look at the whole chain of parts. I bought a new cable only to find it was a seized mechanism that the cable pulls and the actual cable doing all the work had stretched, not the side I took off.
Refitting the handbrake shoes require infinite patience and the proper tool for the locating springs
Finally hats off to the utmost stupidity of kia, the rubber boot that the brake shoe actuator pokes through is only sold with the entire back plate at nearly £120!!!, plus will require the hub to be split and suspension dismantled. No wonder the dealers make so much on servicing.
That doesn't sound so good. Perhaps you can pick something up in decent condition from the breakers?
Wrong. Can’t just pull out the rear cup holders. Thanks for making me break 2 plastic clips.
Did you not listen to the video, at the roughly 4:00 point?
I mentioned that two of the clips had been broken previously. I didn't break mine at the time but the panel clips back on fine without them, in my car anyway.
How did you remove the rear cup holder assembly
It looks like a previous owner forced the screws. So it was really easy for me to remove the rear panel. I'm not exactly sure what the official method of removal is.
Thanks mate. Your kia vids have been dead useful
Thank you for this nice video!
Wow! Thanks. I have adjusted my crappy parkingbrake a lot of Times from above
A
Great👍
Great thanks. Very helpful.
Hi would it be the same way for a Hyundai Santa Fe 2010 model?, can't find any videos ta
I was able to adjust mine with just my fingers
That's good, must have been pretty slack?
Thank you!!!
Thanks for the video. Just what I needed. Greetings from Levittown PA USA.
Many years ago (2001) I was working not far from you in Lebanon (Ironwood Power Plant) but residing in Reading.
How can i adjust just one wheel please?? One is good one is loose
Vlad, you will need to remove the wheel to do that, there is an adjuster which needs to be turned manually to set it correctly.
Have a look at this video and you'll see the adjuster.
ua-cam.com/video/pvuqiaWRoGg/v-deo.htmlsi=_hpyM6RoKuVKXmyD
@@gtd65 hi! Thanks for your reply. For some reason i can not add here in comments some pictures, so in my case kia ceed 2016 LC16EFY if you check that on eurocarparts for rear brake disks , that doesn t have that hole where i can put the screwdriver in so can adjust, has 2 small holes for those 2 screw but really small. Is it different on my car? Thanks.
@@vladmoloce8915 I see, so you have the JD model? Mine is the earlier ED 2007 to 2012. Looking at Autodoc, it seems there's two options, one with electric handbrake and one without? I'm assuming yours has no inboard shoes for the handbrake and clamps the brake caliper instead?
To save time, I'd head over here and make a post with your problem.
www.kiaownersclub.co.uk/forums/ceed-2012-2018.55/
Do cars has 2 adjusters? So in your case is in the cabin like in the video, do you have the adjuster by wheel as well? Or either like your case either by rear weels through the disc hole?
@@vladmoloce8915 yes the adjustment in the cabin is basically taking up the slack in the cable. Here's a video giving more detail on the handbrake at the back wheels.
ua-cam.com/video/pvuqiaWRoGg/v-deo.htmlsi=lQy_zmTicQRH_IrB
Thanks for that!
You're very welcome Colin. If it's not the cable, I've another video which shows the problems with the operating lever that the handbrake cables attach to. The amount of rust was pretty high causing the levers to seize up. No amount of cable adjustment will help if you still get problems.
ua-cam.com/video/pvuqiaWRoGg/v-deo.html
What about a 2014kia ceed?
Aye so about as useful as a poke in the eye that was.
Thank you for this video good sir. Greetings from Iceland
You're very welcome! It's been a very long time since I was up in Iceland, 1987 perhaps?
This video is absolute BS ... The cup holder is held in by 4 screws and 2 of them are screwed from inside the console so access is impossible. If you pause the video you can see where he has broken the fixings off and you'll have to glue or silicone it back in.
You might have the opinion that the video is BS but I didn't break any fixings. The cable can be adjusted from inside the console anyway. There's no need to remove the cup holder at all.
@gtd65 would you like me to send you the screenshot from your video of the 2 fixings you broke, because I broke the same 2 by following your BS video
@@michaelgreen618 haha, you're confused. 🤣 I did not break any fixings that's exactly the condition of the car when I bought it. Also, as I've already mentioned, you do not need to go in via the cup holder. You can adjust via the console, which part of those points are you unable to comprehend? 🤔
Perhaps if you actually listened and watched the entire video, you'd have fully understood?
You are clever fella thank youuu
Thanks
More info on removing the drinks holder please. Must be something holding it in, screws, clips? I'm not going to just yank it for fear of breaking it. Thanks
I can have another look this morning, when the rain stops. It looked like the clip were broken on my car by a previous owner. If you have a rachet spanner/wrench that would be the work around and then just access the adjusting nut from the top, via the centre arm rest.
Did you find out how to remove the drinks holder without breaking the plastic? I tried this today, but was afraid that I will break something. I got to remove the two screws, but the holder didn’t want to come out
yeah no joy after removing the two screws. Access from the top doesn't allow the spanner to move enough to have any effect.
I can't see any simple way of gaining access as such. In my car the screws had been snapped off. I'm sure if I removed the whole centre console it would be obvious but it would make more sense to just adjust the rear wheels in that case? The simplest method would be to use a ratchet spanner from the top.
The rear wheel brake adjusters are very narrow - I thought they would be muc wider, it's very easy to not see them at first...but they are at roughly the six o'clock position, at the bottom
How many "clicks" do you need for the handbrake? In my case 7 or 8 when I'm parked uphill or downhill. Furthermore, is your handbrake wobbling when is not applied? In my case is not so stiff
I believe 7 clicks is the "factory setting" for the handbrake to be fully on. (I also have another video on my channel where I do a full service of the handbrake). If your handbrake lever is wobbling when not applied, I'd guess that this means the shoes are rubbing inside the disc when the brake is released?
@@gtd65 I don't know! If I adjust tighter the handbrake in order not to wobble, then the handbrake doesn't allow the wheel to rotate freely. I've done a full service and the situation is better. However there is still a little wobble of the handbrake.
@@peponas87 I think the wobble that you are describing must be some sort of "pulsation" of the shoes touching the disc and getting transmitted through the cable to the handbrake lever? Have you verified the adjustment at the back wheels?
@@gtd65 My bad...When I say wobble I mean a little play. No resistance halfway to the first click.
The adjustment was made by a mechanic. So, I think it's ok. Another problem I had is that the cable attachment in the drum was somewhat loose and over bumps I've heard a clicking noise (like coins). After the adjustment and some grease, there is no such a play anymore.
@@peponas87 when I took my rear assembly to bits, I really couldn't believe how bad it was in there. with rust and seized up parts.
so you broke the locks on the lowest part of the cup holder?
I bought the car used.
Presumably, this happened during the previous ownership?
I've never had any problems with the cup holders as it is but need to remove the panel and adjust the cable again.
I did actually do an adjustment at the wheels after watching a German language video on here. (ua-cam.com/video/YD2KwM5KVts/v-deo.html)
I should really figure out how to get access to the original screw fixings but as mentioned above, it's not actually been a problem.
@@gtd65 Had problems getting access to the adjuster today. Stupid way to mount that cup holder. Screws from both in- and outside. And I can't figure out, how to release the console up front to remove it as an unit.
@@johnnytjrnfelt5629 yeah, it is a bit of a strange setup. A bit like that silly detail when removing the rear brake discs.
I think a rachet spanner might be the easiest option for adjustment?
Dankjewel❤
heel graag gedaan 😉
@@gtd65 oh shit hahahaha wist nie datje nederlands kon hahahaha
@@bigchill1477 Een paar woorden maar ik heb wel een paar jaar in vlissingen en Middelburg gewoond 🤣
@@gtd65 ahh jatoch goed maat haha
which way tightens the cable coming from the back? Clockwise or anti?
oov55 clockwise tightens the cable.
God help us from amateurs. That is for adjusting the hand brake cable NOT
for adjusting the brakes (hand brake should be set to between 5 & 7 clicks,
this allows the automatic adjuster within the handbrake shoes to adjust) . Yes
it will make the handbrake feel tighter but the brake adjustment will still be incorrect
all you are doing is disguising an issue that needs resolved.
Where did I say anything about "adjusting the brakes". This video is about how to adjust the handbrake. Perhaps a new set of glasses are in order?
Handbrake is working fine by the way and this method has been used on a number of vehicles over the past 20 odd years as an amateur ;)
Iain Hutcheon that's great. My brakes are working just fine and I'll be giving them a proper check over (grease up and service) once the weather improves.
I think what our "expert" friend Iain here is trying to say is, if you need to make the adjustment in the video, it might be because your shoes are shot and/or the handbrake cables are old and stretched.
In which case then, yes, you might not want to REPEAT this adjustment and have the shoes and cables checked over.
However, he didn't exactly cover himself in glory by having a pop at DIYers. Remember, we're not all overpaid mechanics, and we do have a passion for fundamental engineering.
Kids... don't be put off by so called professionals telling you it's all wrong. If it works, then it works. Just be safe, and test your results before heading out into traffic.
Incidentally, the car I was working on had its brakes checked not 7 months ago by an apparently qualified and experienced mechanic. So, here's what they missed, and what I found...
When I started, the back wheel was locked, one of the shoes had no friction material left, one of the glide pins and rubber boot was from an incompatible vehicle and was seized, the pivot action in the handbrake connection at the shoes was seized, both caliper pistons were rusted and had no grease behind the boot, the pads on one side were cooked beyond recognition and disintegrated upon removal, and both discs were less than the minimum thickness. And of course, the handbrake was sloppy and pulled all the way to the top, henceforth I went looking for a video tutorial on how to adjust this.
All has been rectified now by myself, your regular DIYer using UA-cam videos, and everyday tools in my garage. All I'll do now is take a short test drive, then to my local and trusted mechanic to have a proper brake test done so that it meets MOT standards.
@@ottofumbler7267 our "expert" friend Iain is just a nuisance. Why don't he link to his own "How-to-do-things-proberly"-video in his comment? Probably because he didn't now how to make one.
Great video thanks. Very helpful. I used this knowledge to tackle the same job on a 2010 Hyundai i30 after I replaced the handbrake shoes.
When I pulled the handbrake it was floppy, and went all the way to the top... and it was still not holding the car on a slope! Clear MOT failure.
I knew my fitting and adjustment at the shoes end was correct, so after adjusting the nut at the handbrake end, it's more taught and doesn't travel all the way to the top.
Thought I might have to buy new handbrake cables, which would have set me back at least £50 not including labour. I don't have a post lift, so I doubt I would have been able to replace the cables myself in the driveway.
Incidentally, the access panel on the i30 is a simple pull off panel. Maybe whoever ripped the screws off your Ceed thought it would be the same as the i30?
Glad to be of help. I'll probably do a rear brake service before the winter arrives and check the condition of the parking brake shoes etc.
@@gtd65 Go for it. For info, the lower bolt of the caliper bracket is hidden behind the control arm. Just remove the lower 17mm bolt and you'll have plenty of access to the caliper bracket. I'll post the link to another video for this.
@@gtd65 ua-cam.com/video/vZAuQ-klleY/v-deo.html
It's for a Hyundai i30, but it's the same setup I believe at the rear.
@@ottofumbler7267 I had fun with that 17mm bolt - I actually broke the socket, getting the nut off!
@@gtd65 I ended up using impact sockets and a heavy duty electric impact gun for that bolt. Nothing else would shift it. I tried but couldn't get the angle for a breaker bar and get it to stay on. Smothered the threads in grease when reassembling just in case it needed attention again.