Customer approved the repairs on this 1998 Chevy K2500, so let's tear off the intake manifold, and see if our diagnosis from Part 1 was correct! Enjoy! Ivan
Another excellent, straight forward video Ivan. When I was wrenching for GM, they "revised" these plastic intake gaskets numerous times, sadly, they still all leaked after a short time. I then turned to Fel-Pro and began using their MS98000T "Severe Duty" line where they actually make these gaskets out of metal. Once I began using these, I never saw a 4.3/5.0/5.7 come back with an intake leak, same can be said for the 3100/3400 & 3800 as well. These were actually stout motors aside from this issue and the GM CSFI "Spider" failure. It was always a roll of the dice if the quick connect heater fitting on the back of the intake would snap off flush upon removal then you would have to drill it out. Sometimes they came out nicely. Lol.
Is the intake manifold aluminum? Did any of them get pitted so bad you had to replace the manifold? Before you used the steel gaskets how often did you see these gaskets give out? Every 100K miles or less? Thanks in advance.
Fel pro has reproduced several of GMs plastic intake gaskets. The 3.1 and 3.4 to name a couple. They are rubber/metal and as stated you will never see the vehicle again with an intake leak.
When removing an intake manifold on any Chevy V8 or V6, in order to prevent cooling entering the engine when lifting the manifold, you should always remove the two lower drain plugs (one on each side of the block, sometines is a knock sensor in one of them) and this will remove any remaining coolant from inside the block. that is not possible to drain by the radiator petcock. This saves having to change the engine oil due to water intrusion.
I’ve done so many of these I think I could do it blind folded, v-6 also. But never for an intake leak as You encountered here. Always have been for the notorious vortex coolant leaks for me. I’m thinking this one happened during the last intake gasket job? Anyhoo great diag. as always Ivan👍
I don't know if you've ever seen the UK show "The IT Crowd" but everytime someone says oh look it's made in USA i chuckle and my mind goes straight to the show. Everything "Made in Britain" just catches on fire lol
It used to be a VERY good thing! These days not so much... most of the time. If something says "Made in the USA" nowadays it all too often means that corners were cut. Things that are DESIGNED in America seem to be the way to go in recent years. **RANT** We sold our souls to China's ridiculously cheap labor 25ish years ago and it has cost us *_dearly_* in manufacturing technology, capacity, and labor overhead cost. We had a glimmer of hope for the industry snuffed out when we gave up our fossil fuel energy independence (we were EXPORTING with a production SURPLUS) in early 2021. 😒😑 Transporting materials and goods cheaply with a country as large as the USA was spurring growth tremendously, driving costs down, and eating away at the cost difference between Chinese and American goods while freeing up money for technology and labor investment in the industry. /**RANT**
Actually its dumber that that, we sell our coal and iron ore to China, who process it and produce inferior quality and then we buy the steel back at more than we could have made it for locally but the people are happy because we don't have to run the "dirty" smelting plants and give people jobs
Along with the super cheap rubbish grade factory gaskets from the GM beat the suppliers until they cry purchasing dept. the first time the engine gets just a little over optimum operating temperature and the gaskets welcome the coolant into the intake ports. Brilliant!
Hasn’t rained this hard all summer, Ida just decided to drop in and make a visit, awesome diag and repair, impressive fix to do by yourself, have a great holiday
Back in the late 90s and early 2000s my great friend and crack Chrysler tech TD MacDonald had a trick for diagnosing these issues on the MOPAR 5.9l magnums. He would block off the PCV and all breather hoses then connect a vac gauge to the crankcase This is the first time for me to actually see the internal vac leak on an intake manifold. ' Thanks again for the holiday weekend special, its becoming a PHAD trademark. Much like your messy hair, headlamp, shirt off on hot days and of course the classic NO PARTS REQUIRED bonus footage.
@@volvo09 they're everywhere down south still. I buy rust free 4x4's from all over the south then have them shipped up here. Sometimes they need an engine but it's easier to fix that than a rusted out body and frame. They're going to be giving them away now that gas prices are going up just like they did between 09-15 when they destroyed millions of beautiful vehicles for the sake of the environment. Give me a break.
I built dozens of 383 and 396 motors and installed LT4 intakes and heads on stock engines for 94-96 Impalas when they were popular. There was always chatter about removing the intake causing a block shift and messing with the main bearings, even to the point of pulling the engine and loosening the main bearings and retorquing them if the intake was removed. The instructions in the fsm may have some basis in fact. When I did that, I never had any failures. What a pia though for a simple intake swap. The LS truly represents decades of improvement for the small block architecture based on R&D of millions of engines.
You did NOT put those cheap assed plastic gaskets back in that truck!!! That, my boy, is a mistake that will come back to haunt you. Felpro makes a replacement gasket that is steel with rubber on the outside of it. It will never crumble like those cheesy plastic ones. I never use those if I pull an intake. Before Felpro redesigned that gasket, I had a few that I had to do twice. Hasn't happened again with the Felpro design. ;)
It’s a Vortec. The heads will crack long before the gaskets fail again and that’s the bottom line cause Stone Cold said so. Cheap thin pot metal heads are cracking as we speak…. I think I can hear them cracking now.
Good video, I like your strategy based diagnostics, there is one little trick that enhances the seal of where the front, and rear of the intake manifold contacts the block, the area where silicone sealant is used, the trick is to put dimples in the block, and the intake manifold, this gives the silicone something to grip onto. Thanks Ivan your videos are amongst the best if not the best. on UA-cam.
I would bet money that the last person who replaced that gasket was struggling to get the manifold back in place, dropped it in like yours did and knocked the gasket out of place
Gotta love engineers thinking 4 bolts are better than the 6 that the Chevy V8 was originally designed for. They never gave an issue till this Vortec design.. probably save GM 5 bucks per engine, but brought more business to the dealers repairing this mess.
I'm guessing someone torqued the gasket down in round robin fashion instead of by service specs. Even this complete amateur knows that tightening sequence always matters with engine components.
Right out of the box the replacement gasket looks like it stands a better chance of not having that same failure, good work Ivan, seems a shame to leave the inside of the rest of the intake dirty but I understand that requires a considerably higher cost and the possiblity of more parts that really are not effected by the work your doing now
I had those same black and orange gaskets on my 99 suburban when I did the same job and thought they were replacements. Maybe not. Both my 96 and 99 intake manifold gaskets had to be replaced at about the 230K kilometer mark. Thanks for sharing Ivan.
Great video sir definitely have learned a lot!! One thing I can recommend where you put the RTV on the valleys (the ends) what I have found that works best the name is (THE RIGHT STUFF). I don’t know if you have ever heard of it but it is the best RTV I have ever used and it’s all I ever do use now it’s more expensive but you don’t have to worry about taking a part back off because this stuff seals!! Hope this helps someone!!💯👍
Great tip on the break line for air hose access to small spaces. I think some mechanics fail to take care when installing gaskets not knowing that the proper install process is what creates the gasket seal, not just the gasket alone. Great job as always. Thanks for the series over the Holiday weekend.
Heads up on these & sbf... Cut 4 bolts off at 2" or so as guide pins. Helps a ton in positioning without disrupting gaskets. The only way to make sure your sbf doesn't get leaks
Those cheap tin pans from the dollar store work great for catching fluids. Nice too see someone else using them. And you got a swivel on your hose. I couldn't survive without one on mine, especially with an air rachet attached.
Great stuff! I’ve got a 97 GMC Sierra and my son has a 98 Silverado. I foresee this procedure in my future lol. And this will be my step-by-step along the way. So glad I have found you today. Very straightforward and sensical. Now following! Thank you!
Another great diagnosis Ivan. Ive done a lot of chevy manifolds that leaked engine coolant but never came across any with sagging intakes runners. Doesn’t surprise me with the lack of bolts in the center of the manifold. Another great design.
I ve done that job with my Blazer 4.3 engine. Same procedure. Like Joe Rose I went with the Fel-Pro gasket never had a problem with them. Great Sunday evening video to enjoy a good cigar and bourbon. Full day off tomorrow from my real job and no diagnostic calls. scheduled lucky me.
Oh my lawd. I juss picked up a c2500 sierra that has this exact issue. Watched pt1, have the high idle, excessive crankcase vacuum, slight losing of coolant and literally everything you stated. Going to verify with my techs at work and be sure it's not a dead cylinder or anything else. Also same thing with it going away under load and it being a constant misfire at idle. Thank you so much for this information and video. 🤝🤝
Great job Ivan. But please wear safety footwear. I thought i was being careful but sandels and a cylinder head coming together did for me. since then many years ago safety boots every time.
Great video the good diagnosis the thing I did not like about the late model GM intake gaskets is trying not to smear the RTV thank you for the good information
Good job! I have done this on my Tahoe over 15 years ago. Still have the truck. I'm the it's only mechanic for everything. I like to share I had one misfire issue that I was chasing on-off for years: Occasional CEL uphill. I'm normally very confident at diagnosing things on these older vehicles and generally able to zero in and only change the culprit part thereby minimizing cost. But this issue gave me a headache for far too long. So finally I started throwing parts at it. I even put in new spider injectors and fuel pressure regulator but NO change. If anything it seemed to get progressively worse as time passed by. When measured at idle, fuel pressure always SEEMED steady 55 psi. But oh well, apparently it was not quite. New fuel pump (Bosch, with GT 280 connector) fixed the issue. By the way, the pump that I removed was an identical Bosch with GT 280 connector, that I have upgraded many years ago. So the connector was unlikely the issue here. Pump has otherwise showed no sign of issue. My GUESS is that on load the fuel pressure or volume may have been not enough and that has triggered CEL.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I agree. I should have. But I was not sure how to 'lead out' the gauge without hood removal. And being by myself, did not trust myself being able to remove it and fit it back nicely and most importantly without damage. Also I got confident and tricked by that steady and strong 55 psi though during idle and flipping throttle, so I kept thinking I'm good. By the way, even the fuel trims looked OK (at least to me) on the recorded CEL events Diagnostic Snap Shot. With ST around 3% and LT 10-15%. So I thought I OK here as well. But go figure, the fuel pump definitely had to have been it, because no more issues what so ever since replacement. And I drove many, many miles since and uphill too.
That replacement gasket set looks like it's all plastic. If so, there is no way I would use that. The newest ones are metal and plastic and is what should have been used. Did you check to see if the gear on the distributor was knife edged? That is another common problem with these engines.
I went nuts with a shop vac when I did those chevy gaskets. Suck up all the coolant. I found best if you remove the thermostat housing and thermostat then stick your wet dry vac in that hole and let it rip you get hardly any coolant in the lifter valley. I got ALOT of coolant into the oil I kept getting milky oil was annoying AF. Had to do like 4 quick oil changes. Even when I dropped the oil pan months later I still had some milky looking stuff in the oil pan. That stuff stays!
You can get steel version that does not warp like the plastic ones. Mahle makes them. Here in Ak plastic ones last 2yrs if you have a garage. I have done many, my fastest time - 42min. That time does not include oil change, or purge the cooling system. And if bend the tab on the right rear bracket, loosen the left valve cover, makes the manifold come out easier. I will always give 👍 UR AWESOME.
The best gaskets on these engines are the steel reinforced ones from Fel-Pro, They have a piece of steel in the center so the gasket won't sag. 4 bolts only just really don't cut it to hold these on very well.
great video! exact same job i did! but that droop in the gasket is very common to see!! but I usually see coolant puke out! but that is different game with the air leak this time!! after all, truck sounds hella nice! cant wait til part 3 :-)
When you use those plastic manifold gasket pretty much you are setting up your self for the potential of come back for leaks again ,I am saying this from experience . They have updated metal gasket that are the way to go .
I've heard about the intake manifold bolt torque sequence on the vortec 5.7 engine. It's crazy and unbelievable that intake manifold bolts could somehow distort the engine block and destroy crank bearings. It happened to my buddy. He didn't follow the three step bolt sequence in order and the bottom end was ruined.
I don't always know. I don't always know when I think I know what I know. To keep an open mind, searching to learn more as I take great caution when sharing my trust. Might make for a better day. One thing's for sure though. I won't always know when I think I know what I know. Have a better day anyway. Sincerely, Jekelex
I just did this on mine its a k1500 vortec 5.7 350 replaced spider injector lower intake gaskets it failed first time filled engie with antifreeze replaced the failed gaskets , did the oil change reassemble top end got it to crank and as it cranks it will cough once like it wants to fire but cant soo im replacing crankshaft position sensor , map sensor, ignition control module , new coil , knock sensors , has new mass airflow sensor , distributor , plugs 8mm wires , new upper plenum, gaskests all through it , i crusjed the fuel seal in the check valve connector return side and still have to work on correcting the distributor position for timing ... i might have to set it a tooth advance once i figure out where its at currently once it actually starts and runs!! Shes 196,000 miles and was all stock original parts till i figured out it had a massive vacuum leak fixed that i hope , like i said it cranks over puffs once or twice but will not actually fire and as its cranking it fetches up like its stuck now and then i dunno if that means fuel buildup in the cylinders or the distributor is out off correct placement but i wanted to see if you could point me in the right direction on this thank you!!
One thing on the plus side. This engine doesn't have the infamous engine destroying active fuel management. I had a misfire on one of the afm cylinders. Pulled the spark plug and was amazed that the carbon build up was still hanging onto the plug. A chunk of that carbon breaking off could have easily scored the cylinder bore causing low compression and a permanent misfire. The fix: disable afm. No problems since.
Done ALOT of these. Vortec and older. I noticed the RTV on the “China walls” was pretty thin. Usually will not seal properly and have oil leaks. Did you have that issue? Just curious. Peace
Hi Ivan,good video again as always! I was wondering ,would doing a smoke test before and after ,be of use in a case like this?Or would the fact that maybe the valves in some cylinders being open{ exhaust wise }be an issue?To confirm sealing ,besides surface spraying of carb cleaner,which might not work because the gasket was leaking on the bottom inside to the lifter galley.thanks Ivan.
Lol,,, If you put that 11 foot pounds on that intake manifold in the wrong sequence it'll flex the block and throw the bottom end into chaos,,, that is one flexible engine block !!! lol...
Hi Ivan, Do you think you and the wife would ever make it down here to the eastern shore (Ocean city Md ) ? It would be great to meet you and do some work on my truck. Great video.
You produce some great videos, but you made me nervous on this one when you ran that engine as long as you did with no coolant. In the old days of thick cast blocks and heads you could get away with that, but with thin wall casting things distort easily if there is no coolant to distribute heat more evenly. The engine was still running when the video ended and I am assuming all is well with it. I am curious about how much longer you ran the engine without coolant.
Wow, the intake must be so tough that not torqing properly can flex the entire block. Only reason I can think of that would mess up crank bore alignment.
@@ericgunter45 So have I. Although you hardly see these anymore. But there was a time you'd see them often. And IMHO replacing the upper gasket would just be smart. Preventative measures. Imagine if the vehicle comes back because now the upper gasket is leaking. The customer isn't going to understand that it wasn't when you originally did your testing. They're just going to think that it's broken again. And they're going to hear intake gasket. The difference between the two isn't going to matter. They may even say "why didn't you replace all of them while you had the intake off?" In my experience it's best to replace all to avoid the comeback and therefore avoid the customer losing confidence in you as a technician.
Ivan, what are you doing with sandals while doing that type of work? Safety first. Save your toes. :-) I believe that gasket was installed wrong as it couldn't migrate down. IMO
Setting an intake manifold down on the gaskets on some of those engines IS A BEAR BY YOURSELF. Hell even rocker arm covers, you have to have 5 hands & 10 eyes.
Those plastic gaskets are junk, i’ve had oem replacements go bad again 3 years later. I Always use the Fel-Pro improved gaskets once they became an option. Never had one fail. GM saved $1.30 per vehicle on the plastic versions at least. :/
About 4 minutes into part 1 that fuel gauge was wonky. Travel was far more than and more jerky than a step motor check would do on key on. Almost like the fuel pump was mechanically affecting the level and then it settles to empty.
I've been using "The right stuff" for all my sealing as well and had great success. I believe it comes down to proper prep and making sure once you drop the parts together you keep 'em that way but the right stuff is excellent in my books
Привет, Иван! Я тут столкнулся с проблемой разъемов электропроводки, сильно подверженных коррозии. Задумался о химикатах для очистки... Предлагаю тебе снять короткое видео крупным планом, как реально очищает коррозию, твой любимый Dioxide...
I got a p0175 bank 2 running rich 5.7 v8 vortec comes and goes what could it be? Starts right up no problem starting changed thermostat,coolent temp sensor, cleaned throttle changed air filter changed only 1 bank 2 o2 sensor changed spark plugs has new catalytic converter, changed spider injectors?
Another excellent, straight forward video Ivan. When I was wrenching for GM, they "revised" these plastic intake gaskets numerous times, sadly, they still all leaked after a short time. I then turned to Fel-Pro and began using their MS98000T "Severe Duty" line where they actually make these gaskets out of metal. Once I began using these, I never saw a 4.3/5.0/5.7 come back with an intake leak, same can be said for the 3100/3400 & 3800 as well. These were actually stout motors aside from this issue and the GM CSFI "Spider" failure. It was always a roll of the dice if the quick connect heater fitting on the back of the intake would snap off flush upon removal then you would have to drill it out. Sometimes they came out nicely. Lol.
Interesting that aftermarket did better than OEM!?
What's your experience with the 3.1/3.4 intake gaskets?
I have always use the upgraded gasket set from Fel-pro. Go through all that labor and put the same plastic crap back on. No thank you.
Is the intake manifold aluminum? Did any of them get pitted so bad you had to replace the manifold? Before you used the steel gaskets how often did you see these gaskets give out? Every 100K miles or less? Thanks in advance.
The same issue applies to the 3800. Never reinstall the plastic gasket. In this case GM does make a metal gasket as does FelPro.
Fel pro has reproduced several of GMs plastic intake gaskets. The 3.1 and 3.4 to name a couple. They are rubber/metal and as stated you will never see the vehicle again with an intake leak.
When removing an intake manifold on any Chevy V8 or V6, in order to prevent cooling entering the engine when lifting the manifold, you should always remove the two lower drain plugs (one on each side of the block, sometines is a knock sensor in one of them) and this will remove any remaining coolant from inside the block. that is not possible to drain by the radiator petcock. This saves having to change the engine oil due to water intrusion.
I’ve done so many of these I think I could do it blind folded, v-6 also. But never for an intake leak as You encountered here. Always have been for the notorious vortex coolant leaks for me. I’m thinking this one happened during the last intake gasket job? Anyhoo great diag. as always Ivan👍
vortec
I don't know if you've ever seen the UK show "The IT Crowd" but everytime someone says oh look it's made in USA i chuckle and my mind goes straight to the show. Everything "Made in Britain" just catches on fire lol
It used to be a VERY good thing! These days not so much... most of the time. If something says "Made in the USA" nowadays it all too often means that corners were cut. Things that are DESIGNED in America seem to be the way to go in recent years.
**RANT**
We sold our souls to China's ridiculously cheap labor 25ish years ago and it has cost us *_dearly_* in manufacturing technology, capacity, and labor overhead cost. We had a glimmer of hope for the industry snuffed out when we gave up our fossil fuel energy independence (we were EXPORTING with a production SURPLUS) in early 2021. 😒😑 Transporting materials and goods cheaply with a country as large as the USA was spurring growth tremendously, driving costs down, and eating away at the cost difference between Chinese and American goods while freeing up money for technology and labor investment in the industry.
/**RANT**
@@thetinpin So did Australia, we can't even make a car now
Actually its dumber that that, we sell our coal and iron ore to China, who process it and produce inferior quality and then we buy the steel back at more than we could have made it for locally but the people are happy because we don't have to run the "dirty" smelting plants and give people jobs
Loved IT crowd. Remember when your extinguisher catching fire, call 0118 999 881 999 119 725 3. 😁
@@alex1949 🤣
It's hard to believe there is enough of a clamp load on the gaskets with only four bolts per side, no wonder they leak, lol.
It’s true, they are a foul design
Along with the super cheap rubbish grade factory gaskets from the GM beat the suppliers until they cry purchasing dept. the first time the engine gets just a little over optimum operating temperature and the gaskets welcome the coolant into the intake ports. Brilliant!
Hasn’t rained this hard all summer, Ida just decided to drop in and make a visit, awesome diag and repair, impressive fix to do by yourself, have a great holiday
Back in the late 90s and early 2000s my great friend and crack Chrysler tech TD MacDonald had a trick for diagnosing these issues on the MOPAR 5.9l magnums. He would block off the PCV and all breather hoses then connect a vac gauge to the crankcase This is the first time for me to actually see the internal vac leak on an intake manifold. '
Thanks again for the holiday weekend special, its becoming a PHAD trademark. Much like your messy hair, headlamp, shirt off on hot days and of course the classic NO PARTS REQUIRED bonus footage.
I'm glad to see you're digging into this one. I see so many of these trucks up here in da nort'woods.
Yeah, a staple of the north.
I actually want to "import" one from down south.
@@volvo09 they're everywhere down south still. I buy rust free 4x4's from all over the south then have them shipped up here. Sometimes they need an engine but it's easier to fix that than a rusted out body and frame. They're going to be giving them away now that gas prices are going up just like they did between 09-15 when they destroyed millions of beautiful vehicles for the sake of the environment. Give me a break.
I built dozens of 383 and 396 motors and installed LT4 intakes and heads on stock engines for 94-96 Impalas when they were popular. There was always chatter about removing the intake causing a block shift and messing with the main bearings, even to the point of pulling the engine and loosening the main bearings and retorquing them if the intake was removed. The instructions in the fsm may have some basis in fact. When I did that, I never had any failures. What a pia though for a simple intake swap. The LS truly represents decades of improvement for the small block architecture based on R&D of millions of engines.
LS is King
Nice to see a "hands-0n" video. You'll more than likely help many people who will
need to tackle this job.
You did NOT put those cheap assed plastic gaskets back in that truck!!! That, my boy, is a mistake that will come back to haunt you. Felpro makes a replacement gasket that is steel with rubber on the outside of it. It will never crumble like those cheesy plastic ones. I never use those if I pull an intake. Before Felpro redesigned that gasket, I had a few that I had to do twice. Hasn't happened again with the Felpro design. ;)
It’s a Vortec. The heads will crack long before the gaskets fail again and that’s the bottom line cause Stone Cold said so. Cheap thin pot metal heads are cracking as we speak…. I think I can hear them cracking now.
Good video, I like your strategy based diagnostics, there is one little trick that enhances the seal of where the front, and rear of the intake manifold contacts the block, the area where silicone sealant is used, the trick is to put dimples in the block, and the intake manifold, this gives the silicone something to grip onto.
Thanks Ivan your videos are amongst the best if not the best. on UA-cam.
Great Labor Day Special. Thanks for sharing Ivan!
I would bet money that the last person who replaced that gasket was struggling to get the manifold back in place, dropped it in like yours did and knocked the gasket out of place
My thought exactly.
Gasket looked bowed, but locating pins were still there!
Great video, thanks for digging deeper!
Gotta love engineers thinking 4 bolts are better than the 6 that the Chevy V8 was originally designed for. They never gave an issue till this Vortec design.. probably save GM 5 bucks per engine, but brought more business to the dealers repairing this mess.
I'm guessing someone torqued the gasket down in round robin fashion instead of by service specs. Even this complete amateur knows that tightening sequence always matters with engine components.
Great video Ivan! As Always I learned something new from ya once again! Thanks brother!
Right out of the box the replacement gasket looks like it stands a better chance of not having that same failure, good work Ivan, seems a shame to leave the inside of the rest of the intake dirty but I understand that requires a considerably higher cost and the possiblity of more parts that really are not effected by the work your doing now
I had those same black and orange gaskets on my 99 suburban when I did the same job and thought they were replacements. Maybe not.
Both my 96 and 99 intake manifold gaskets had to be replaced at about the 230K kilometer mark.
Thanks for sharing Ivan.
Great video sir definitely have learned a lot!! One thing I can recommend where you put the RTV on the valleys (the ends) what I have found that works best the name is (THE RIGHT STUFF). I don’t know if you have ever heard of it but it is the best RTV I have ever used and it’s all I ever do use now it’s more expensive but you don’t have to worry about taking a part back off because this stuff seals!! Hope this helps someone!!💯👍
Great tip on the break line for air hose access to small spaces. I think some mechanics fail to take care when installing gaskets not knowing that the proper install process is what creates the gasket seal, not just the gasket alone. Great job as always. Thanks for the series over the Holiday weekend.
Heads up on these & sbf... Cut 4 bolts off at 2" or so as guide pins. Helps a ton in positioning without disrupting gaskets. The only way to make sure your sbf doesn't get leaks
Just watching you do that made my back hurt LOL Great video Ivan!!
I believe felpro make a metal version of these.
Those cheap tin pans from the dollar store work great for catching fluids. Nice too see someone else using them. And you got a swivel on your hose. I couldn't survive without one on mine, especially with an air rachet attached.
I believe my 4.3L might have the same problem. It misses at idle(no load) and idles fine in gear or with the a/c on. Awesome video!!!
Can't beat the old small block chevy, Great motors and easy to repair
Great stuff! I’ve got a 97 GMC Sierra and my son has a 98 Silverado. I foresee this procedure in my future lol. And this will be my step-by-step along the way. So glad I have found you today. Very straightforward and sensical. Now following! Thank you!
Another great diagnosis Ivan. Ive done a lot of chevy manifolds that leaked engine coolant but never came across any with sagging intakes runners. Doesn’t surprise me with the lack of bolts in the center of the manifold. Another great design.
I ve done that job with my Blazer 4.3 engine. Same procedure. Like Joe Rose I went with the Fel-Pro gasket never had a problem with them. Great Sunday evening video to enjoy a good cigar and bourbon. Full day off tomorrow from my real job and no diagnostic calls. scheduled lucky me.
Enjoy your Labor Day Bill!
Love the flesh toe work boots. Kidding Ivan😜 Another interesting video series👍
Oh my lawd. I juss picked up a c2500 sierra that has this exact issue. Watched pt1, have the high idle, excessive crankcase vacuum, slight losing of coolant and literally everything you stated. Going to verify with my techs at work and be sure it's not a dead cylinder or anything else. Also same thing with it going away under load and it being a constant misfire at idle. Thank you so much for this information and video. 🤝🤝
The gasket sets used to come with rubber end gaskets. The RTV instructions that I remember reading stated it needed a setup time of 24 hours!
I was thinking the same. Shouldn't you let the RTV cure for a certain amount of hours?
Great job Ivan. But please wear safety footwear. I thought i was being careful but sandels and a cylinder head coming together did for me. since then many years ago safety boots every time.
Great diagnostic, awesome wrenching I think we all love this part. Good video stay safe and healthy. Thanks 😊
Hi ivan.. Another great job. Perhaps bolts with no heads to use as an alignment for the manifold to slide down on. Works with head work too.
Yep!
Beast of a video! 💯 Really well done.
Nice fix Ivan . I think the heavy rain comes from the hurricane your just on the fringe of the sweep inland .
Great video the good diagnosis the thing I did not like about the late model GM intake gaskets is trying not to smear the RTV thank you for the good information
Отличное видео! каждый ролик узнаю для себя что то новое.
Приятно видеть профи за работой.
As i said before..you are the man keeping old gold in tip top👍
Great video Ivan !!! Straight and to the point!,!!! Great job 👏
Good job! I have done this on my Tahoe over 15 years ago. Still have the truck. I'm the it's only mechanic for everything.
I like to share I had one misfire issue that I was chasing on-off for years: Occasional CEL uphill.
I'm normally very confident at diagnosing things on these older vehicles and generally able to zero in and only change the culprit part thereby minimizing cost. But this issue gave me a headache for far too long. So finally I started throwing parts at it. I even put in new spider injectors and fuel pressure regulator but NO change. If anything it seemed to get progressively worse as time passed by.
When measured at idle, fuel pressure always SEEMED steady 55 psi. But oh well, apparently it was not quite.
New fuel pump (Bosch, with GT 280 connector) fixed the issue. By the way, the pump that I removed was an identical Bosch with GT 280 connector, that I have upgraded many years ago. So the connector was unlikely the issue here. Pump has otherwise showed no sign of issue. My GUESS is that on load the fuel pressure or volume may have been not enough and that has triggered CEL.
Interesting! Tape a gauge to your windshield and floor it uphill :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I agree. I should have. But I was not sure how to 'lead out' the gauge without hood removal.
And being by myself, did not trust myself being able to remove it and fit it back nicely and most importantly without damage.
Also I got confident and tricked by that steady and strong 55 psi though during idle and flipping throttle, so I kept thinking I'm good.
By the way, even the fuel trims looked OK (at least to me) on the recorded CEL events Diagnostic Snap Shot. With ST around 3% and LT 10-15%. So I thought I OK here as well.
But go figure, the fuel pump definitely had to have been it, because no more issues what so ever since replacement. And I drove many, many miles since and uphill too.
I love a good nuts and bolts video. It's the only part that doesn't make me feel stupid. 😂
That replacement gasket set looks like it's all plastic. If so, there is no way I would use that. The newest ones are metal and plastic and is what should have been used. Did you check to see if the gear on the distributor was knife edged? That is another common problem with these engines.
I went nuts with a shop vac when I did those chevy gaskets. Suck up all the coolant. I found best if you remove the thermostat housing and thermostat then stick your wet dry vac in that hole and let it rip you get hardly any coolant in the lifter valley. I got ALOT of coolant into the oil I kept getting milky oil was annoying AF. Had to do like 4 quick oil changes. Even when I dropped the oil pan months later I still had some milky looking stuff in the oil pan. That stuff stays!
You always do amazing work !
Am I seeing things, it looked like the water jacket in the center had a piece of the gasket going through the middle of it.😜
Check engine light came on for timing not within spec easy fix i also used felpro gasket no problems soo far thanks for the videos
Great video, have an excellent Labor day.
Nice job. Thanks Ivan!
You can get steel version that does not warp like the plastic ones. Mahle makes them. Here in Ak plastic ones last 2yrs if you have a garage. I have done many, my fastest time - 42min. That time does not include oil change, or purge the cooling system.
And if bend the tab on the right rear bracket, loosen the left valve cover, makes the manifold come out easier.
I will always give 👍 UR AWESOME.
Wow that definitely beats flat rate time!!
hey ivan i was going to guess tight valves wow i never seen a gasket shift like that a little gift from the last guy
Tight valves would cause lower compression, not vacuum in the crankcase.
@@dans_Learning_Curve true! i kinda skiped through didnt know he checked vacuum the tight valves were pretty common back then for misfires
Did this during your Ida rain I see? We didn’t get it nearly as bad in Armstrong as yinz did up there. Fun video to watch your diagnostic process on.
The best gaskets on these engines are the steel reinforced ones from Fel-Pro, They have a piece of steel in the center so the gasket won't sag. 4 bolts only just really don't cut it to hold these on very well.
great video! exact same job i did! but that droop in the gasket is very common to see!! but I usually see coolant puke out! but that is different game with the air leak this time!! after all, truck sounds hella nice! cant wait til part 3 :-)
Yeah it runs super smooth with the new gaskets :))
That is a nice truck, I have a ‘96 model very similar with the 2 front cylinders lopped off
thanks for the vids. This may be exactly what's wrong with my 97 C1500, except the #3 cyl. is the one that keeps fouling out the plug.
very impressed with your skills
Felpro makes a great intake maifold gasket for the vortec. They are metal and injection molded rubber. No sagging.
Nice job, those old gaskets look like FelPro.
When you use those plastic manifold gasket pretty much you are setting up your self for the potential of come back for leaks again ,I am saying this from experience . They have updated metal gasket that are the way to go .
I've heard about the intake manifold bolt torque sequence on the vortec 5.7 engine. It's crazy and unbelievable that intake manifold bolts could somehow distort the engine block and destroy crank bearings. It happened to my buddy. He didn't follow the three step bolt sequence in order and the bottom end was ruined.
WOW that's nuts!!
I don't always know.
I don't always know when I think I know what I know.
To keep an open mind, searching to learn more
as I take great caution when sharing my trust.
Might make for a better day.
One thing's for sure though.
I won't always know when I think I know what I know.
Have a better day anyway.
Sincerely,
Jekelex
Great diag and fix
I just did this on mine its a k1500 vortec 5.7 350 replaced spider injector lower intake gaskets it failed first time filled engie with antifreeze replaced the failed gaskets , did the oil change reassemble top end got it to crank and as it cranks it will cough once like it wants to fire but cant soo im replacing crankshaft position sensor , map sensor, ignition control module , new coil , knock sensors , has new mass airflow sensor , distributor , plugs 8mm wires , new upper plenum, gaskests all through it , i crusjed the fuel seal in the check valve connector return side and still have to work on correcting the distributor position for timing ... i might have to set it a tooth advance once i figure out where its at currently once it actually starts and runs!! Shes 196,000 miles and was all stock original parts till i figured out it had a massive vacuum leak fixed that i hope , like i said it cranks over puffs once or twice but will not actually fire and as its cranking it fetches up like its stuck now and then i dunno if that means fuel buildup in the cylinders or the distributor is out off correct placement but i wanted to see if you could point me in the right direction on this thank you!!
One thing on the plus side. This engine doesn't have the infamous engine destroying active fuel management. I had a misfire on one of the afm cylinders. Pulled the spark plug and was amazed that the carbon build up was still hanging onto the plug. A chunk of that carbon breaking off could have easily scored the cylinder bore causing low compression and a permanent misfire. The fix: disable afm. No problems since.
DIYer here doing this now to my 96 Buick Century with the V6 3100 PITA.
The gasket locating pins should stop it from being pushed down when tightening the manifold, what happened to the ones on the old gasket??
It was in place, just sagged over time in the middle lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Somehow I tend to think those old gaskets were not of the same quality as the ones you put in.
@@RideCamVids Only time will tell...
Make sure you tighten the intake correctly or you may deform the muffler.
Yeah, the crankshaft has some metal in between the intake! I'm questioning that note also!
Done ALOT of these. Vortec and older. I noticed the RTV on the “China walls” was pretty thin. Usually will not seal properly and have oil leaks. Did you have that issue? Just curious. Peace
Hi Ivan,good video again as always! I was wondering ,would doing a smoke test before and after ,be of use in a case like this?Or would the fact that maybe the valves in some cylinders being open{ exhaust wise }be an issue?To confirm sealing ,besides surface spraying of carb cleaner,which might not work because the gasket was leaking on the bottom inside to the lifter galley.thanks Ivan.
Lol,,, If you put that 11 foot pounds on that intake manifold in the wrong sequence it'll flex the block and throw the bottom end into chaos,,, that is one flexible engine block !!! lol...
Ivan from the video the intake manifold looked like it was in great shape. Would that be a yes? No ossified bolts at all?
Good job
Hi Ivan, Do you think you and the wife would ever make it down here to the eastern shore (Ocean city Md ) ? It would be great to meet you and do some work on my truck. Great video.
You produce some great videos, but you made me nervous on this one when you ran that engine as long as you did with no coolant. In the old days of thick cast blocks and heads you could get away with that, but with thin wall casting things distort easily if there is no coolant to distribute heat more evenly. The engine was still running when the video ended and I am assuming all is well with it. I am curious about how much longer you ran the engine without coolant.
It's a Chevy small block...can probably run for an hour with no coolant haha
Wow, the intake must be so tough that not torqing properly can flex the entire block. Only reason I can think of that would mess up crank bore alignment.
I'm pretty sure It's the same instructions for a plastic intake I did on a Ford 5.4l. I imagine it so the gasket gets evenly smashed down.
I would have replaced the upper intake gasket as well as the t.b. o-ring. Just to prevent a comeback.
Have done 100+ of those lower gaskets, have never seen an upper set fail.
@@ericgunter45 So have I. Although you hardly see these anymore. But there was a time you'd see them often. And IMHO replacing the upper gasket would just be smart. Preventative measures. Imagine if the vehicle comes back because now the upper gasket is leaking. The customer isn't going to understand that it wasn't when you originally did your testing. They're just going to think that it's broken again. And they're going to hear intake gasket. The difference between the two isn't going to matter. They may even say "why didn't you replace all of them while you had the intake off?" In my experience it's best to replace all to avoid the comeback and therefore avoid the customer losing confidence in you as a technician.
A great video.
besides setting timing gotta do a crankshaft variation learn or will be back with light on
That's for LS engines lol this is a 98!
Ivan, what are you doing with sandals while doing that type of work? Safety first. Save your toes. :-) I believe that gasket was installed wrong as it couldn't migrate down. IMO
Have literally done hundreds of these either found coolant leak or miss fire on #5
Be careful when you get the new gaskets some of them are not cut out right
causes of high vacuum I think was pcv valve shut very common on volvo will blow out cam seal, I think the pcv moved the intake gasket
Nah this isn't a Volvo haha
Setting an intake manifold down on the gaskets on some of those engines IS A BEAR BY YOURSELF. Hell even rocker arm covers, you have to have 5 hands & 10 eyes.
Those plastic gaskets are junk, i’ve had oem replacements go bad again 3 years later.
I Always use the Fel-Pro improved gaskets once they became an option. Never had one fail. GM saved $1.30 per vehicle on the plastic versions at least. :/
you just love to tease your viewer's don't you Ivan? Okay I'll bite will check out part 3.
My truck misses hard at idle, but runs great when accelerating. I wonder if i have the same problem?
Like #254
Thanks for the video!
Trivia for today.
RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizion
Should’ve put alil more rtv along the valley under the intake manifold & blue lock tight on the bolts
About 4 minutes into part 1 that fuel gauge was wonky. Travel was far more than and more jerky than a step motor check would do on key on. Almost like the fuel pump was mechanically affecting the level and then it settles to empty.
I had a buddy torque the intake on a 4.3 to 30 foot pounds and the engine started knocking, must do something if you over torque the intake
@13:33 I believe the correct phrase is “CHEVY THUNDER!”
I would have glued the gasket in place with " The Right Stuff" sealant around the ports.
I've been using "The right stuff" for all my sealing as well and had great success. I believe it comes down to proper prep and making sure once you drop the parts together you keep 'em that way but the right stuff is excellent in my books
@@macdonaldsmotorworks The only issue with "The Right Stuff" is disassembly. It's automotive super glue. Never had a leak with it.
I miss the days when intake manifolds were solid cast iron about the same weight as an anvil.
They were like that on the FE Ford engines for sure!
12:10 that's why I use prodemand.
Привет, Иван!
Я тут столкнулся с проблемой разъемов электропроводки, сильно подверженных коррозии. Задумался о химикатах для очистки...
Предлагаю тебе снять короткое видео крупным планом, как реально очищает коррозию, твой любимый Dioxide...
Was that Ultra Gray RTV?
Should the caulk have time
To set?
I got a p0175 bank 2 running rich 5.7 v8 vortec comes and goes what could it be? Starts right up no problem starting changed thermostat,coolent temp sensor, cleaned throttle changed air filter changed only 1 bank 2 o2 sensor changed spark plugs has new catalytic converter, changed spider injectors?
Began wrenching in the late 50's. Had to keep the family junker rolling...
An easy test for an intake leak internal is to remove the pcv and see if it has vacuum at the pcv hole
I'm 90% sure he did this in part 1
@@_RiseAgainst He did.
I didn't see the first one